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Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

jacksonpg15jacksonpg15 Posts: 7
edited April 2018 in Oldsmobile
I have a 2000 oldsmobile intrigue that i recently replaced the crankshaft sensor on due to the b circuit failing. I now turn the key and sometimes have to cycle it several times to get the motor to start. The motor will not crank at all while i am cycling the ignition. So if anyone has any ideas let me know. I also get a code now for the A circuit on the crankshaft sensor and a camshaft b circuit sensor code. not sure if it has anything to do with replacing the crankshaft sensor.
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Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    The engine taking a while to start could signal a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.

    What are the actual code numbers you are getting?
  • ron1967ron1967 Posts: 3
    my car starts no problem when the engine is cold or if it's been shut off and restarted within a few minutes, but if i shut the engine off and restart let's say after 30 minutes it takes several seconds for it to start. i actually need to press on the accelerator a bit for it to start. this proves to me that there is a fuel flow problem. i changed the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, cables, crank shaft sensor, cleaned the injectors and also the fuel railling. sometimes this problem goes away for several weeks and then comes back. please if anyone has addvice i would appreciate it, thanks!!
  • irlsirls Posts: 1
    i see everything listed there except a fuel filter, which is what your problem sounds like. try a filter they are cheap, around 10 bucks, it should be mounted along the frame rail under the car on the drivers side, if not there look in the engine compartment or possibly near the gas tank. hope that fixes your problem.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Considering he has changed everything else, I would try the fuel filter (which is located along the driver side in front of the rear tire). I don't think that is the issue. Instead of changing parts, you need to get readings on the fuel pressure to confirm it is a fuel flow problem.

    The Intrigue has some "interesting" electrical and ignition issues that could cause the same problem. But he needs to confirm the fuel pressures first.

    Also knowing what engine he has will help.
  • every so often i have probs with the car not turning over. the security light goes on ..you can hear the gas pump running...yet nothing else happens. after waiting (any where from a few minutes to a few hours(usually 15-30 min) i will try again and it usually then turns right over.the guide say very little in dealing with the " security-pass"feature.one shop told me poss ibly the ign. key core and matching olds pass key etc might need to be replaced? ($385)....any ideas? it is a 98, 3.8....otherwise a good ride
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It is most likely the ignition switch that is the problem. I would try cleaning the ignition switch first (spray WD-40 into the key hole). I bet if you did Google search on Intrigue ignition switch, you'd probably find websites that give detailed instruction on how to replace it yourself. From what I understand, it is not very hard.

    Update: I found the location of the directions to change the ignition switch. hope this helps: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=653340
  • mtrammtram Posts: 6
    I have 99, 3.8 that is doing the same thing. Have you resolved your problem yet? The thing that makes no sense at all is I can go 3 or 4 days and it cranks right up..then 3 or 4 days it wont crank or do anything when I turn the key.

    Does your car also stall while driving?

    I have had the crank shaft sensor replaced, new starter, battery, fuel filter.
  • mtrammtram Posts: 6
    jacksonpg15...just curious if you have resolved your problem yet?
  • jberjber Posts: 1
    I have a 99, 107K, with the same situation. sometimes it has no problems starting, other times it refuses to turn over. doesnt matter hot or cold, if I just drove it, or its been sitting... the wierd thing is that I can usually get it to start by closing the drivers door while I have the key in the cranking position, or sometimes by putting the car in neutral. sometimes it takes both, sometimes nothing works except to keep trying. I get the same codes camshaft and crankshaft sensor., and the SES light is intermittent. Do I Replace the sensors? -saw the post about the camshaft sens., but how difficult is the crankshaft sensor? Any help would be appreciated-
    Jeff
  • gfoygfoy Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 99 INTRIGUE AND IT STARTED DYING WHILE I AM DRIVING SOMETIMES. THE RPM GUAGE DROPS IMMEDIATELY. THE SES LIGHT DOESN'T EVER COME ON. SOMETIMES THE RPM GUAGE WILL DROP ALL THE WAY DOWN THEN GO BACK UP WITHOUT DYING. THERE IS A HUMMING SOUND THAT COMES FROM THE BACK DRIVERS SIDE I THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE FUEL PUMP BUT IM NOT FOR SURE. I HAVE CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER. IT HAS 130000 MILES. SOMETIME AFTER I STOP AND TURN THE MOTOR OFF AND TRY TO START IT AGAIN IT DOESN'T WANT TO START AGAIN FOR A LITTLE WHILE.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Since both codes are showing, I would take it to a mechanic to have both sensors replaced. Not sure how easy or hard it is for a DIY to do the work. Try a Google search.
  • tcjefftcjeff Posts: 23
    I have a '99 Intrigue with the 3.5 L engine - when I first start it up, it starts okay, but after a couple minutes of driving, the engine just dies. I can start the engine again easily enough, and once it warms up, I don't have this problem again, but obviously I want to find a solution. BTW, about 3,000 miles ago I had the fuel filter replaced as well as the spark plugs and the plug boots.
    Any ideas would be very welcome.
  • nihi99nihi99 Posts: 2
    my battery died and i had a jump but that didnt work then i charged it and that dot work i have full power to my lights and interior can some one help
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Remove the negaive then positve battery terminals. Check for corrosion at the positive battery connection and wire terminal. Also look for any other problems on both positive and negative. Sometimes corrosion will allow small currents to flow from the battery, but not large current required for starting.
  • My only issue with starting is that sometimes when the engine is warm, it will stall out once or twice before it finally catches. The car only has 91,000 miles, and is pretty clean, inside and out. If I press down on the gas pedal before I turn the key, I know it will stay running, but it revs way up before it settles down. You can see the needle jump on the tach, then drop to about 500 RPM's, them climb back up and stay at about 750. If the engine is cold, it will go right to idle speed. This is more of a nuisance than a problem, I suspect that it is possibly a faulty TPS. Sound familiar to anyone ?
  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    I need to replace the CKP on my 2001 oldsmobile intrigue. I found instructions for replacement on the 2002 intrigue here http://car.justanswer.com/oldsmobile/yito-2002-oldsmobile-intrigue

    Does anyone know if its the exact same procedure for the 2001? Also, does anyone know a way to measure the bolt tightness...cheaply? I would like to thank everyone here for helping me so far. I have read many posts since joining last year.

    I don't have the money for labor but I found the part cheaply at rockauto.com. I am not a genius under the hood but I am going to try to change it myself. I'll report back and let everyone know how it goes.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I think it is safe to assume that the procedure is the same. GM had already made the decision to kill Oldsmobile. There are very few changes made in Intrigues built after 2000.

    You can get a torque wrench at Sears (or KMart) fairly cheap. Or try a place like Harbor Freight. Some auto parts stores will loan you tools as well.
  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    I replaced the crankshaft position sensor!!! That's a big accomplishment for me because I had never even changed a flat tire before.

    After I replaced the CPS, I tried to start the car and nothing!!! It wouldn't even start to crank. I don't know if its the battery or the starter or something else. The radio and all of the console lights work, so I guess its not the battery. I hadn't even started my car for 5-6 months before replacing the CPS. The car would crank before my repair.

    Before I tell everyone how to change the CPS, I would like to make sure that I did it correctly.
  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    Update, I disconnected the wrong battery terminal before starting. I disconnected the negative cable. Could this be why my car won't crank over now, or is it the battery?
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    I have the exact same problem on a 2000 with 94000 miles. I am hoping that you found the problem and can enlighten me. I am leaning toward the fuel pressure regulator. I hear the pump running for 5 seconds or so when engine is warm, but nothing with cold start.
  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and shorted out a fuse when I did it. I got a new fuse and the car cranked and started up but before I got out of the parking lot it stopped again :( The car just stops, buzzes and all the warning lights go on. Then it won't start back up again for a while. I'm hoping that there is nothing severely wrong with the car. Any ideas? I've heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or the ignition control module but I have no idea it wasn't giving any codes. My friend thinks that its some sort of "floating short".
  • I haven't done anything with it yet, it is not at the critical stage, just the occasional nuisance stage. My wife had a 2000 Alero ( 3.4 ) and that FPR sprang a leak, that malfunction was obvious. Changing it wasn't hard or terribly expensive, but of course the 3.5 is a completely different engine. Just like changing the oil filter, this could wind up being a whole different experience.I had a '98 Intrigue ( 3800 Type 2 ), and that never had this problem, even with about 123,000 miles on it. Unfortunately, that one was demolished last summer, but it saved my kids' lives in a rear end collision with a Mack dump truck. My daughter was driving, doing 30, the truck hit them doing about 50. They all walked away without a scratch.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    check out the connectors at the battery. Make sure the connection is clean and secure.
  • This is not an electrical issue, something occasionally interrupts the fuel flow during startup. During these episodes, when the engine does finally start (usually after one or two more tries ) it revs way up and then drops low and then comes up to normal RPM's. It acts like the dam just broke and the gas finally rushes in. Engine temperature seems to have some effect, the colder it is, the easier it starts. Could be the rubber diaphragm in the FPS.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I had a hard time following your problem until I realized you used two different user names and two different posts....I think. Either way, if you haven't started it in 5-6 months, I would try one of those fuel line additives that is designed to get the water out. Also you may consider replacing the fuel filter (by the driver's side passenger door). Those are pretty cheap and you should be able to do the fuel filter yourself (start the car; pull the fuel pump fuse and have at it.) esp. if you replaced the crankshaft sensor yourself.

    Also if you turn the key to the "on" position you should hear the fuel pump humming for 2-3 seconds. This is normally a quick way to see if the fuel pump is working. To check the fuel pressure regulator, you need a pressure gage for the fuel line. Those aren't too expensive. You should be able to do a google search on that procedure.
  • dio__2dio__2 Posts: 6
    dennis1957 is someone else with a similar but not the same problem. I only posted the stuff under this screen name. My car will start up when its cold but it will cut off when you get moving, the dash will buzz and the check engine, service vehicle, anti-lock and brakes lights are on. Maybe its electrical maybe its not. The car is most likely to stall when it accelerates, decelerates, or when I'm coming out of the parking lot (the front end is tilted down).
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    Warm engine starting problems. I just ordered up a Borg Warner fuel pressure regulator for $41.00 it will be at the parts house in a couple of hours. A post on another site mentioned that the fuel rail must be lifted up to allow room to remove the regulator. I don't know if this completely pulls the rail up enough to disengage the O rings or not. The regulator just has a clip to hold it in place and reportedly it only took about 20 minutes to replace.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    FPR update. I replaced the FPR and I notice that the engine is smoother running. It's only about a 20 minute job. The injector rail does not have to be moved to R&R the regulator. BW did not include the mounting clip as the oem unit would have, but I doubt that the clip is worth $80.00 or so difference in price. Just required a little motor oil on the O-rings and position the vacuum tube pointing in the direction as removed or the vacuum line will be too short. Located at the rear of the engine, drivers side at the end of the fuel rail.

    Piece of cake.
  • coonhoundcoonhound Posts: 174
    You didn't mention if you have a set code or check engine soon light when the car is running. If so take it to Auto Zone and have them check the code. The ignition switch is another known gremlin. Mine would just die going down the road before I spent $300.00, at the dealer, to replace the switch.

    I have had so many problems with the intrigue that I bought an OBDII code reader. But this can be a double edged sword. Engine failed to crank at all and I would get both crankshaft and camshaft position codes. Well! if the engine isn't turning over then they have no feed back. I replaced the camshaft sensor. Wound up having it towed to the dealer and spent $300.00 for a starter. In the days before hi tech I would have had someone rap the starter with a hammer. But???? :cry:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Sorry dio_2. Dennis1957 responded to my initial answer to your post which caused me confusion. Any way.... Since you haven't started it in a while, check the batterry with a voltmeter. On another forum, a low battery caused the light on the dash to "go crazy". Also, you may want to check the gas and fuel filter. If it has been sitting that long, it could be causing some problems. Try one of those additives that gets rid of the water in the fuel. I would also check (and clean) the air filter and throttle body. Those are simple since you already tackled the crankshaft.

    Like coonhound mentioned, the ignition switch could also be the problem.
  • jf79jf79 Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 intrigue my car will start all the time when its cold. it seem like every time i drive for more than 45min.it will noy start back up it takes at least 20-45 min. for it to start again. the thing is it does not allways happen. i can go a few days to a few weeks with no problems. anyone else out there ever had this type off problem or have any advise please help
  • doublebdoubleb Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Intrique, and am having a problem with it starting. It makes no difference whether it is cold or warm. I usually need to turn the key 2 -3 times before it will start. I checked the code on my engine service light and it is PO446. It talks about a circuit condition in the purge vent solenoid. Says it could be defective. I checked the connections, and they seem to be secure, so any ideas. I replaced the crankcase positions sensor last year when it and crankcase sensor were throwing a code. I heard unless both are defective it will not throw a code. Suggestions?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Best I can find it is likely a valve or solenoid for the evap system
  • doublebdoubleb Posts: 2
    Thanks! I realize this could be a solenoid in the EVAP system, but cannot find all the parts. Where is the canister located and and the purge vent solenoid. Does anyone know the location of these?
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    Went to start my 3.5l 99 intrigue and heard a pop sound just as I turned the key, now all it does is crank but not start. Can hear fuel pump come on. Looking for help to do a secondary spark test. The Chiltons I have has no instructions on how to do this. With the coil over design of this engine you can't access the plugs or wires. Just changed the plugs and boots last fall. Love my Olds but have had to spend much $ lattely. Thank for help
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=236930&highlight=P044- 6

    Above is s discussion on P0446 on a 2002 Intrigue (same engine). I believe it is along the fuel filler line.
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
  • wolf13wolf13 Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue w/ 3.5l. Went to start heard a pop and just cranked after that. Have a friend who is a gm service tech look at it, and after tearing the front down found spocket spining free on crank. Says there is no way to fix with engine in car. Anyone heard of this before. Love my olds but this may be the last straw.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Never heard of this before. Is this part of the starter?
  • bblamirebblamire Posts: 1
    This sounds remarkably like the problem on my 99 intrigue (3.8L)(246,000 km). Mechanics note that when this occurs (took 2 days) they receive a security code. They mentioned that the fuel flow was interrupted. They are still baffled. Do the keys have a "chip"? If so, what senses the chip? Can't be the key itself since the problem occurs with the spare key as well.
  • dennis1957dennis1957 Posts: 5
    There is no chip, these keys apparently have to be made of the proper metal or they will not start the car. If the keys are of the wrong metal ( affects electrical continuity ), they will trip the "security' code and the car will not run. It will crank, but won't start. My car just seems to be starving for gas initially, but not all of the time, and it always starts. Sometimes it stalls once or twice before it finally catches. I suspect that either the fuel pressure regulator is weak, or there is a problem with the pump itself. That is the LAST place I want to look.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    The security code means you have a problem with the ignition switch. When the security light comes on, it cuts fuel flow. A bad ignition switch will cause the problems you have been experiencing.

    The ignition switch can cause some weird problems with these vehicles not just hard starting. I'm having issues with the ignition switch on my 2000 Intrigue. I may try to clean the contacts if the weather holds up this weekend. Cleaning the switch has worked for a number of owners.
  • fadefade Posts: 5
    I've intently read the posts on starting problems. I've owned my Intrigue for 5 years now and it has intermittently failed to start. I should say, it fails to crank. All dash lights work properly and the fuel pump starts as the key goes to "ON". However as you continue to push the key to the "START" position absolutely nothing happens. I regularly clean the battery terminals and regularly spray WD40 into the ignition and the problem goes away sometimes for months. But it always seemed to return. I finally purchased a new AC-Delco ignition switch hoping to permanently cure the problem. It went over 2 months before failing once again. I've have used every suggestion listed here and other forums. Sometimes if I move the shifter it starts. Other times I open the windows to allow air flow to the interior as it seems to occur most often in hot weather. Most times I can pull the key out, turn it upside down a few times and eventually it cranks. But this car did not come with the security system so I can't believe the key itself is the issue. When I lived in Indy it typically did not occur all winter, then begin failing as soon as hot weather arrived. It has no error codes listed currently and I've never found a code that made any sense at all after it refused to crank over. I have had no other issues with the car after 100K+ miles, but this one is simply driving me crazy. My wife refuses to drive it after it happened to her on a shopping trip...lol. But I love the car and would like to put another 50K miles on it before swapping it out. I drive 40 miles to work and it still gets 28 MPG in comfort.
    Has anyone tried any of the previous remedies that actually cured the non-crank issue permanently? My local Chevy dealer continues to scratch his head and offers no resolution other than a new ignition switch and starter. I've eliminated the ignition switch and find it hard to believe the starter would be the issue since I've never had to get out and wrap the starter yet. Seems to me if I had a dead spot, it would stay dead until I somehow moved it off the dead spot as in smacking it with a ball pean hammer. But it always "eventually" cranks. What other GM models used this engine and the basic starter scheme as the Olds? Perhaps I should go to that model dealer who may have heard of this problem. Any, any discussion would be appreciated. THX Fade
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Posts: 256
    if you installed a new switch then you should be able to illiminate that for now.
    However, one cannot dismiss the physical connections at the switch. Loose, dirty overheated etc.
    The other possibilities are teh starter relay, the park neutral switch and the stater solenoid.

    Can you hear the solenoid clicking when the key is turned?

    The starter relay is grounded by the pcm and is energized by the key turning and the PN switch engaged in proper gear. The solenoid then transfers battery power to starter.

    Since it is so intermittent, unless you have a meter or lights connected at various points along this circuit, you will not be able to determine what is interrupting the power to the solenoid.

    Second to that, I would look carefully at the back of the ignition switch for overheated connectors. And or measure the resistance of the switch contacts. Should be close to 0 ohms or whatever the leads together are. More than 1 ohm and thats your problem. Also the resistance from the hot side of the switch to the cold side of the PN switch for resistance same criteria.

    The starter solenoid and the starter need a good ground and come from the mounting bolts. loosen and tighten them to reseat the ground connection. also check the ground connection from the bat to the engine.

    cheers
  • fadefade Posts: 5
    I did pull the harness out so that I could clean the connectors and check the physical integrity of the connectors and wiring. All seemed well. I cleaned and lubed the connectors with high-temp electrical grease just for piece of mind.
    I hear absolutely nothing with I hit "START". No clicking, no further fuel pump noise. I have noted the lights go off, however that seems to be a normal occurance even when the switch works. I replaced the battery recently and tore apart the cables for a good cleaning so that should be eliminated. But I did not check the grounds so I will have to go do that. THX. I'll report back. Fade
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    You may want to replace the crankshaft position sensor. Some people have had issue with this sensor and it has NOT produced a code. I'm currently having this problem now. Since you know how to remove the starter, the CKS is right there. Just make sure you get an OEM sensor.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I've been having issues starting my 2000 Intrigue since February. At first it was 2-3 times and then it would start; recently it would take 10-12 times before it started. There were times when the car would stumble when downshifting and stall when driving. While this was happening over the past several months, I would never get a "check Engine" light which was key to the diagnosis. I finally broke down and tried cleaning the ignition starter switch and the connections. The cleaning did not work so I replaced my switch the next day. This has fixed my starting and stalling issues.

    I created a guide to removing the ignition starter switch from the dashboard. I got these directions from another forum. I have used them myself and they do work. You can also apply these directions for accessing the radio, HVAC control unit, instrument cluster (good time to replace any bulbs), etc.

    http://www.carspace.com/guides/Cleaning-the-Ignition-Switch-on-a-2000-Intrigue
  • I have a 2000 Intrigue that has always has problems starting. All of the dash lights come on, and the fuel pump runs for a little while and then nothing. No cranking, no nothing. Throw out two false codes; bad crank sensor, bad cam sensor. I would try 10 times then take the key out and try another 10 times. The most tries was 167, the least was 2.

    The dealers replaced the two crank sensors, one cam sensor, the ignition switch, the security relay, security module, and a specialty shop replaced the starter; $1600 and nothing. If I turn on the head lights with the key out of the ignition, open the drivers’ door, let the key alarm ring 8 times, close the door, and turn off the head lights, put in the key and vroom it starts (most of the time). In two days (if it keeps starting like a normal car) the engine light goes off and life is good.

    If it’s parked for more than 4 hours, it has a good chance of starting. If the car is not ever locked, it starts every time. If you use the remote and lock the car twice with two pushes, un-lock it, it is guaranteed that it will not start. This is what I do, every time, to demonstrate it to each dealer.

    Sometimes I just hold the ignition key on for 30 seconds and out of nowhere it cranks right up and starts. Three dealers, one specialist, and lots of time and money, and nothing.
  • fadefade Posts: 5
    I'm not certain whether I'm glad or sad that others are having my exact issue. After replacing the ignition switch and having no luck I took other advice and replaced the crank and cam sensors. It has slowed down the dead start switch syndrome, but it still occurs. I'm not certain I understand why many have had great success replacing the switch and others haven't.
    Does anyone know whether the dash mounted switch senses the key in any way? My Intrigue does not have the security system so they keys have no chip on the them. Although I replaced the ignition switch with an AC-Delco part, it did not come with the key tumbler so I'm wondering if there is some sort of sensor in the tumbler mechanism that senses the key. I say that because way back when this first began several years ago, I could always turn the key upside down and it would start normally. Later I had to turn the key several times, but that finally quit helping leading me to clean and later replace the ignition switch. Any thoughts? Gary
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    babylonbob: Here's a discussion from another forum that discusses your exact problem. Since the cam shaft and crankshaft position sensors are failing at the same time, repeatedly, the most likely problem is a bad ECU. It appears this is a plug-in part. Read it over and decide.

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=908503
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