Oldsmobile Intrigue Starting/Stalling

13

Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    It could be the alternator but I haven't heard of the alternator causing that type of problem.

    What was the exact code? Here's a discussion on the crankshaft sensor: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=961719&highlight=star- t

    It turns out the connecting wires to the sensor were bad which resulted in the code.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Actualy is was not the alternator. The problem was under the air filter. The housing for the filter cut into wiring harnest. I've repaired 8 wires so far,still have a few more. I hope this helps other owners with the same problem. :)
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Ok,i'm getting a P0340 cam sensor circuit malfunction and a P0335,p0385 crank sensor A and B circuit malfunction.My car wont crank.I have replaced,ignition switch,lock and cilinder,cam sensor,crank sensor,neutral safety switch.connector,pig tails,batery,pcm.And still nothing,It has power on the small wire to starter.However Im tired of spending $$$$.Could this be the answer to my problem? :confuse: :mad:
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    It has power on the small wire to starter

    this is the wire to the solenoid after all the checks like sensor park neutral etc.

    If it has power from this wire to ground when turning the key but no crank, then the solenoid or the starter is the issue.
    There are two coils in the solenoid to engage the heavy spring loaded lever to pull in the main contact to the starter. Once the main contact is in the second coil is cut out of the circuit and the remaining coil is sufficient to hold it in until you release the key.

    Verify that you have a good ground to the starter. It is through the bolts to the block, which is grounded by a big ground wire somewhere.
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Yes, it was the starter. The funny thing was,that I had it checked twice,and both time they told me that it was good and running strong. My olds is back.. :)
  • olds409olds409 Member Posts: 22
    Ok guys, after all I did to my Olds,he let me down.Finaly fixed the starting problem,and now the torque converter clutch is stuck. It start but the second you put it in gear it stalls. Picked up a 04 Grand Prix,same car ,same problems,well not yet.... Question?Can I swap starters?The one in the olds is 7days old.Acording to autozone they have the same part number except for the gp has an "s"Will it fit?Maybe some shims?
  • kiflcbkiflcb Member Posts: 1
    Today I was driving and my car just stalled. The service engine light started flashing and then it just shut off. The wheel locked up and I had to like guide it off the road. this has happened before and I just turn it off and its fine again. I went and had it looked at and they said i needed new coil packs and spark plugs so I changed those and now it is doing it again...does anyone else have this problem or know whats wrong? do you think it could be the alternator. Now it wont start at all. all the lights come on and it turns over and churns but it wont actually start. help me please
  • billcarsonbillcarson Member Posts: 23
    i have not had that experience,(yet),but from all i have read this sounds like either a crankcase position sensor,camshaft position sensor or possibly a defect in the ignition cylinder/switch assembly.any codes or security lights on ?good luck.
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey there,
    I am having the exact same problem. I have and 1998 Intrigue. My car has stalled on me while driving. It would give me starting problems as well. It wouldn't start right away then i would eventually get it going. I took it to my my mechanic and they replaced the key ignition cylinder (it worked for a day). Then they said I had a lose battery connection and they reset my security system (it worked for 2 days then bam). So I told them to try to disable the car starter (it worked fine for a couple days now the damn thing won't start at all) Funny thing is that when the car starter was connected it would start fine with the start but would die when i tried the key. So now its in my car port and won't start, it tries the engine light flickers, all the other lights go on the turn off, and runs rough then dies.. So I may have to get it towed to my mechanic again.
    If you can you keep me posted on your dilemma. When I get it figured out I will let you know. maybe you can e-mail me : [email protected]
    It would be greatly appreciated, I have had this on and off problem for over a month
    its so frustrating!!.

    take care
    Chris,
  • wheelowheelo Member Posts: 1
    Hey Chris,

    Did you ever get this problem resolved? If so what fixed it? My pastor has a 2000 intrigue and has similar problems with the car stalling when he is driving it and the car won't start sometimes. He can turn the key on and wait until the dash lights come on and then it will usually start. He has had the fuel pump and fuel filter replaced. The mechanic tried to get the codes but they cleared when the engine stalled...do you think that would indicate an electrical problem? Anyway thanks.

    Mark
  • karlrove99karlrove99 Member Posts: 1
    lol smileyface! I am so thankful for this forum. I have a 99 Intrigue. I have been having problems starting it and sometimes it dies when running. When it's hot or rainy, the problem was really bad. I had a mechanic check it out but there were no codes in the computer so that was inconclusive. To me, it seemed like a fuel delivery problem because the engine would sputter and die. However that was not the case. My mass airflow sensor went out about 4 years ago. When that happened, my car would crank but not start and there was a code stored in the computer. So I knew that was not the problem again.

    Today, after mulling over the forums for a few days, I decided to go to Autozone and buy a new ignition switch for $80. It took me just over an hour to take apart my dashboard and put in the new switch. My car starts fine now! I am no longer embarrased to drive my car for fear of stalling!

    I have no idea why a bad ignition switch causes an engine to act that way, but i replaced it and I'm well on my way to 200,000 miles now!!!
  • araticusaraticus Member Posts: 1
    i am trying to locate the crankshaft sensor on my olds, intrigue, 2000. i can not find it and am wondering if i can install the sensor on my own.thnks for any comments that can help me with my problem. i bought the sensor and it seems like a fairly simple part to install>
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey Mark,

    Did your Pastor ever find out what the problem was. Sorry I never responded before didn't see the post. You may have read my other posts though. I had the crank sensor, mass air flow senor replace and it worked for awhile but now its acting up again.grrrr
  • b_s_chanceb_s_chance Member Posts: 1
    check engine light...the car idols very rough and after being driven for 15 or 20 min. when i come to a stop the car dies and some times it even dies when i just let off the gas pedal. took it to my local parts store and had the engine codes pulled this is the result...PO102,PO171,PO306 can any one help?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    P0102 - MAF / VAF a circuit low input; try cleaning the MAF with an appropriate cleaner

    P0171 - System Too Lean (Bank 1); It could be an oxygen sensor.

    P0306 - misfire in cylinder 6.

    Question, how many miles and is the coolant at the right level?
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey there Mark

    Did your pastor ever figure our his problem, my car I thought was fixed , is not having stalling and starting issues.... Let me know thanks chris
    (to let you know, I have replaced the crank position sensor, the oxygen sensor, computer, fuel pressure regulator, ignition switch. The problem went away for a couple months but now is back more often, I think i may have do with wiring near the ignition switch or the security system I think the the security is cutting off the fuel pump not letting it start... im gonna have it looked at again.
    ill let you know..
    if you like my email is [email protected]
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey Everyone,

    Well I finally took my Car to a GM dealer. MY car would stall while driving no matter what speed, and would also have a terrible time starting. Previously I had a few things replaced, the crank position sensor (they replaced this cause a code came up for faulty part) ,the fuel pressure regulator, the ignition switch, the oxygen sensor, had a new ECM computer replaced all that and I still had problems.
    I broke down and took it to a GM dealer. They did a test on it and found this
    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"
    . So basically the Electrical Ignition switch was faulty. I guess the other one i had installed was no good. What a piss off. I have read that alot of GM cars have this issue. Would be nice if they fixed this for free. Damn repair cost me $600.00.
    O well it is fixed now I hope..
    I will keep you all posted, if you wanna email me [email protected]
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    It was actually a Electrical Ignition Switch behind the key cylinder that was faulty....
    just to let anyone know
  • kkim_hikkim_hi Member Posts: 7
    I got a 1998 and 3800 engine w/118k miles. replaced the crank sensor in august and it solved the initial stalling problem. the car ran fine until yesterday (12/1/10). it stalled after a few minutes and I had to tow it back to my workplace. after trying to restart it the battery died fast. recharged (2hrs) and tried again, no start (crank yes). pulled the #5 sparkplug turned key and only 1 spark and nothing, reinstalled then pulled the #1 then it fired up. we quickly turned it off, installed the plug back then it fired up and ran for 30 sec then died and no start again. after 8 hrs of battery recharge, i started the car and it ran, idle to 2000 then dropped to 1000 then fluttered then dropped and died, again no start. we used starter fluid and nothing, so ruled out fuel problem. the battery also got weak again. had batt sys checked in aug and no problems. fuel pump and filter replaced in june 2009... any ideas? getting codes tomorrow, but i suspect :sick: it will give crank sensor again.
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey There KKIM

    I had the a similar issue, my car would stall while driving for no reason, and many times it would just not start..I replace a few things the crank sensor, ignition switch, oxygen sensor, spark plugs. Read my post below if you are having stalling while driving issues or your car just one start and acts real goofy when starting this may be the problem. What the replace was a switched behind the ignition swtich, it was dropping of in voltage causing the car to stall. hope this helps. you can emil if u like
    [email protected]
    When I had the codes read it just came up security issue..

    Hey Everyone,

    Well I finally took my Car to a GM dealer. MY car would stall while driving no matter what speed, and would also have a terrible time starting. Previously I had a few things replaced, the crank position sensor (they replaced this cause a code came up for faulty part) ,the fuel pressure regulator, the ignition switch, the oxygen sensor, had a new ECM computer replaced all that and I still had problems.
    I broke down and took it to a GM dealer. They did a test on it and found this
    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"
    . So basically the Electrical Ignition switch was faulty. I guess the other one i had installed was no good. What a piss off. I have read that alot of GM cars have this issue. Would be nice if they fixed this for free. Damn repair cost me $600.00.
    O well it is fixed now I hope..
    I will keep you all posted, if you wanna email me bender1972hotmail.com
  • kkim_hikkim_hi Member Posts: 7
    thanks for quick reply, still waiting for my friend with his code reader but he said it very possible and to start to call around for the part just in case its not sold seperately, since I live in hawaii, its hard to get stuff at the local parts store at times. we're worried that it will show a bunch of codes and we cant pinpoint the real problem.
  • kkim_hikkim_hi Member Posts: 7
    Its me again, we tried the code reader and we got no codes. it said all tests passed and nothing in history faults. the service engine soon lite is still on, but no codes, we even tried to start the car and no codes showed up. HELP need to know if anyone else got this problem? IF i have to change the electronic ignition switch cluster, how do I get to it? I dropped the metal shield under the steering column and can see and feel the cluster but cant get a good grasp where the bolts are or how to remove it.... thanks
  • kkim_hikkim_hi Member Posts: 7
    Ok folks, got lucky. it was the coil pack/module, the one I had in the car I got from a used parts dealer that just took it out an intrigue that drove in that week, so it was good when i bought it 2 years ago. I had another coil pack with module in my trunk and removed the one in the car then it fired up and ran without problems for 1 hour. my friend used his meter to read the sensors and all checked ok. Another person told me is old buick would stall and start and act up but no codes given. he replaced the coil module and all went ok. so keep this also in mind. Try to look for a pack/module from a used parts dealer and test then put it on the shelf just in case you need to troubleshoot starting issues.
    thanks for all the help here
  • dave920dave920 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 intrigue and im having some problems with it... code read of misfire. and i have a ruff idle and it smells like gas BAD i have no idea what it is. can anyone help
  • jmack90jmack90 Member Posts: 2
    hi i have a 98 olds and was wondering if the crank position sensor is in the same place and how do i replace it
  • jmack90jmack90 Member Posts: 2
    hey u said u changed your cps? how did u do it? where is it located?
  • alen181alen181 Member Posts: 3
    i have a o2 olds gl with 112000 miles i have the trac off anti lock brake service vechle soon went to auto zone had it scanned on codes came up
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    Hi there,

    I have a 99 Intrigue and was having the same problem: no codes, but Service Vehicle Soon and Trac Off, and sometimes Security lights would go on. The gauges were also going crazy. Then, had trouble with hard starting. Did not think the two things were related.
    Had battery replaced in January....still starting hard, and SVS and Trac off lights going on (and staying on).
    Just had the alternator replaced and now starts fine, no SVS, trac off, security lights.....

    The alternator replacement cost around $500 (for a rebuilt alternator).
    I think that is high, but replacing the alternator isn't easy.

    Hopefully, that's the fix!
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey there,

    If you still having starting problems, and stalling issues check the Ignition electrical switch. I was having trouble for over a year on my car, it sometimes would not start and would stall while driving. I have things replace and thought the problem was fixed but it kept coming back. The actual problem was the Electrical Ignition Switch. there is a switch behind the key cylinder and was causing all my problems...
  • zombiechick138zombiechick138 Member Posts: 3
    Ok, my problem seems to be very similar to many others on here...
    I have a '99 intrigue that has had problems starting since we bought it. It will take a while to start, most often requiring a little gas to get it going. It will stall quite regularly while driving, it seems to do this when you switch from the accelerator to the brake or vice versa. We had it tested at auto zone and it gave 3 codes. One for mass air flow sensor, one for crankshaft position sensor and another one I cant seem to remember now. The man there told us to try cleaning these with carb cleaner and to check/clean the Idle Control Valve (?). After doing this it ran very rough for a few minutes but then seemed to get better. Now it is stalling again and become impossible to drive due to the brakes locking when it dies. From scouring all these posts it seems I should start with the ignition switch but I am confused.. Are there 2 ignition switches?? I've read that the Electrical ignition switch is the culprit (behind the 'normal' ignition switch?) or just plain Ignition switch? ANY help will be most appreciated, Its too hot to walk to work... :)
  • zombiechick138zombiechick138 Member Posts: 3
    While starting it today with the hood up I noticed some white smoke coming from the engine (but I cant tell where..) and have read about problems with coolant leaking into the engine.. could this cause the problems Ive described or has anyone else had this problem?
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hello Zombiechick,
    Coool Nick, have you seen walking dead..??

    I had the issue with my car for a long time. The car wouldn't start it would try then just die, Other times it would start just fine. Sometimes the damn thing would even stall on me while driving.. The problem was so intermittent it was hard to diagnose. Sometimes I would go for a month with no issues. I finally took my car to a local GM dealer and they found the issue. However they were only able to find the problem because at the time the car would not start at all.
    When I took it to GM dealer they quoted this on my bill
    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"

    So I'm pretty sure it was the swich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)

    I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
    It is a switch behind the above part.
    It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
    Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..

    Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
    hope this helps
    keep me posted..
    thanks
    chris

    Hey Zombie chick if u want email me a [email protected]
    keep me posted

    I also has this stuff replaced on my car before I found the major problem, but this stuff can cause stalling and non starting
    here is a run down on what they did
    They replaced the Mass Air Flow Sensor, the GM ECM (the computer in the car they said was burnt out, so it wasn't giving proper readings or codes)
    when they put the new computer in and reflashed it a new code came up showing the
    Crank Sensor was faulty so they replaced that...
  • zombiechick138zombiechick138 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks so much!! We're going to try to change it tomorrow. It seems that was the answer for alot of people with this prob so Im hoping it works :)

    PS> Walking Dead is awesome :) I cant wait for October...
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    HEy Zombiechick did they figure it out
    I forgot to post the the Crank Position Sensor was replaced on my car,
    that can cause stalling and starting issues too,,,

    let me know just curious .....
    damn cars !!!!!
  • ghostcar_2011ghostcar_2011 Member Posts: 2
    OMG!!! I have actually had it with my 2000 Olds Intrigue with the stupid special 3.5L engine. All these codes, many repairs and it still stalls and everything. Thanx for the new info though... I think I am going to try a new Electrical Ignition Switch. But I am confused... Are there two electrical ignition switches? or is there the ignition switch and then an electrical ignition switch behind it? and how do I replace it? Where is it? Please advise.

    Here is my stupid cars history: always takes several attempts to start and it almost always requires me to step on the gas pedal to get it to start (unless I want sit there forever), when it does start it rev's up and down until it just dies, then when I get it started it can stall at any time. There really is something about the gas pedal and the brake. If I am sitting at a light and I take my foot off the brake, it wants to die unless I press hard down again on the brake or hurry up and get it idled up past the #2 RPM and watch the brake. Usually it stalls between the 1 and 1.5 RPM's but at other times I can watch the RPM gauge go up and down while driving. When going uphill the check engine light while flash on and off but when your done with the hill it will go off (hence no check engine light to show anyone!) My Uncle and brother though I was crazy when I told them what was going on! Sure enough when I took it to them it started every time and stayed running! OOOOOOOH! Well finally I left there house and then it just died wouldnt start at all or anything. Hahaha on them. :) They checked stuff out for an entire day and couldnt figure it out. They said I have a "Ghost Car". Well, then more $$$ later, it went to the Dealership for the big/major coding machine. It came up with two codes: Crankshaft Positon Sensor B Circuit Malfunction, and Evap Emission Control System Leak-Small. So, we changed the Crankshaft Sensor. It ran better for about a week and now I am back to square one. I guess the Evap Leak thing is anything from a loose gas cap to a hole in any of the tubing, etc.- almost impossible to find. After reading all these posts I am willing to try the Electrical Ignition Switch. I have no choice, I am unemployed and trying to hang onto my house. So, getting a new car in not an option. Do you have any idea how much an Electrical Ignition Switch costs? Please advise! I sure do need the help :)
  • ghostcar_2011ghostcar_2011 Member Posts: 2
    Did the Electrical Ignition Switch work? I am having the same stuff going on...

    Here is my recent post...

    OMG!!!! I have actually had it with my 2000 Olds Intrigue with the stupid special 3.5L engine. All these codes, many repairs and it still stalls and everything. Thanx for the new info though... I think I am going to try a new Electrical Ignition Switch. But I am confused... Are there two electrical ignition switches? or is there the ignition switch and then an electrical ignition switch behind it? and how do I replace it? Where is it? Please advise.

    Here is my stupid cars history: always takes several attempts to start and it almost always requires me to step on the gas pedal to get it to start (unless I want sit there forever), when it does start it rev's up and down until it just dies, then when I get it started it can stall at any time. There really is something about the gas pedal and the brake. If I am sitting at a light and I take my foot off the brake, it wants to die unless I press hard down again on the brake or hurry up and get it idled up past the #2 RPM and watch the brake. Usually it stalls between the 1 and 1.5 RPM's but at other times I can watch the RPM gauge go up and down while driving. When going uphill the check engine light while flash on and off but when your done with the hill it will go off (hence no check engine light to show anyone!) My Uncle and brother though I was crazy when I told them what was going on! Sure enough when I took it to them it started every time and stayed running! OOOOOOOH! Well finally I left there house and then it just died wouldnt start at all or anything. Hahaha on them. :) They checked stuff out for an entire day and couldnt figure it out. They said I have a "Ghost Car". Well, then more $$$ later, it went to the Dealership for the big/major coding machine. It came up with two codes: Crankshaft Positon Sensor B Circuit Malfunction, and Evap Emission Control System Leak-Small. So, we changed the Crankshaft Sensor. It ran better for about a week and now I am back to square one. I guess the Evap Leak thing is anything from a loose gas cap to a hole in any of the tubing, etc.- almost impossible to find. After reading all these posts I am willing to try the Electrical Ignition Switch. I have no choice, I am unemployed and trying to hang onto my house. So, getting a new car in not an option. Do you have any idea how much an Electrical Ignition Switch costs? Please advise! I sure do need the help :)
  • tiffer420tiffer420 Member Posts: 7
    Yesterday morning I drove my 99 Olds Intr. 3.5 too Walmart, ran fine all the way there. Was shopping for maybe an hour come out turn the key, and it's turning over but won't fire, at this point there also sounding like some banging or something towards the rear of the car.
    The fuel pump is turning on when you turn the key, and everything seems too be moving as needed but it will not fire. The car has been towed back too my place as we tried for an hour and could not get it too fire. Anyone have any ideas?
  • tiffer420tiffer420 Member Posts: 7
    Turns out there's no compression.....so timing chain. We haven't dissasembled the engine well enough too see what has actually happened BUT from what we can see there is a gear that looks free. Been trying too look up diagrams and the timing chains themselves but I seem too be having problems finding them....could anyone point me in the right direction????
  • jammyburks1jammyburks1 Member Posts: 4
    i have a 2000 olds intrigue and i am having the same exact problems. if you ever figured out the problem and or fixed it, please let me know. reply to me at [email protected] thank you so much
  • jammyburks1jammyburks1 Member Posts: 4
    hey there dave 920
    i have a 2000 olds intrigue, iv had to replace my cps, but now im also having that strong smell of gas (but no visible leak) and also sometimes ill go to start it and it ownt start. but then itll start up randomly. and you can hear the fel pump working and everything, and its not electrical because my lights and everything work fine. if anyone can help please email me at [email protected]
  • tayers812tayers812 Member Posts: 1
    edited August 2011
    Alright, to get straight to the point. I'm having the same symptoms as many of the other people on here. I have to crank on the car for a bit to get it to start, some times it starts right up other times it chokes then dies. And it loves to stall on me in traffic which is going to cause me a wreck, it also likes to surge forward so I take note not to follow to closly. And to top it off I keep getting pulled over because my speedometer is reading ten MPH slower then I'm actually, Ive tested it by having a buddy ride next to me. So far Ive replaced the Idle Air Control Valve, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, the Camshaft Position Sensor, the entire ignition, the battery, the starter, the fuel filter, and tried three different ECUs. Ive cleaned the MAP sensor, the EGR valve with gasket, the MAF sensor, and the throttle body, replaced all gaskets and O-rings, I regularly run Lucus fuel system cleaner through it once a week when I fill up and I only run 89 and I watch where I get it to make sure there is no water contamination, all carefully with q-tips and the proper cleaner not to ruin the parts. As well all my dash lights are on, Ive used my OBDII, as well as a friends, and Autozones', and no codes are pulling. Ive tested the battery, the charging system and starting system and everything is showing good. I'm using the factory key as well as a spare and they both do the same thing. To make a long story short I'm torn on what it is most likely to be, I'm willing to change every electrical part on the car I just want to know what I should shoot for first. Right now I'm torn between replacing the fuel pressure regulator or the MAF, if those don't work next will be the coil packs and the fuel pump, and after that the alternator and TPS. To most this seems like a lot of work and wasted money but I'm determined not to let this beat me. Also I work at Autozone and I'm having a lot of people bring in these cars as well as the Alero and Aurora with similar problems and I would like to help others as well as my self while becoming more knowledgeable about these kinds of things. If anyone out there has any ideas, tips, or hints I'm willing to listen but please be serious no sarcasm. And thanks for reading my post and sharing info. If possible please E-Mail me directly at [email protected] and if any one as any questions for me feel free to ask I'll try my best to help.
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    I sent you an email from [email protected]
    Email me direct if you don't get it...
  • dieseldoctordieseldoctor Member Posts: 4
    I think I may have stumbled onto the answer to most of the electrical issues with these, and other GM cars.

    A few people have done extensive research and have found low voltage at the computers of cars with issues. The GM engineers set up these systems knowing there was sufficient voltage and current to operate the car properly. It is assumed there is always enough voltage to operate the systems. If the starter turns over well, the battery is OK. Some change the ignition switch and this seems to be the big key to many of these issues. This can help as there is a voltage drop through any switch. The new switch can bring the voltage up just enough to raise the voltage where the car will work again. I took it one step further.

    If the battery is not providing sufficient voltage to the system, then the computer will not work properly. The wife's 99 Olds Intrigue will start and then stop. Only with a little gas will it keep running. This uses the initial fuel pump shot to get the engine running, and with a little gas pedal, then the alternator comes on line to boost the voltage to the computer. It runs.

    So, I took a voltage reading of the battery with the engine off. It reads 12.5 volts. According to the experts this is the battery condition by voltage:

    12.68 Fully charged
    12.45 75%
    12.24 50%
    12.06 25%

    So, I may be at roughly 80% of the required voltage for the car. The starter turns over quite nicely so I took this one step further. I took a reading, at the battery, during starting. The voltage reading was 10.5 volts while cranking. This is way to low to operate the computer and components of the car. It appears that all voltage is being consumed by the starter with no residual voltage to run the computer, etc..

    The battery in the car now is a low grade jobber battery which came with the car when bought. I cannot determine when it was made or how old it is.

    The FIX, I think!

    I am a firm believer in a very good battery like a Delco or Sears Die Hard. There may be other good batteries out there but these are my two favorites. I get the biggest battery that will fit into the tray with the longest warranty. I can usually pickup one of these Delco's, with a seven year warranty, for around $80.00. This is a bit higher than the others but, I never have to clean the cables, they work well past the warranty period, and I never have to get a jump start. The Delco's just work, and well.

    My son has a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix. It came with a Delco battery and has had no electrical issues, at all. The 1999 Intrigue, which the wife drives, has already had the MAF Sensor replaced, the temperature reading for the climate control goes flaky occasionally, and I have the start/stop issue going. All electrical issues.

    Low voltage is a killer to any electrical system. This is like sending 90 volts to your home computer. It may work, but it may not. Ask any electrical engineer about low voltage issues.

    I will be heading to the Delco dealer next week for a new battery. Will keep you informed if this simple fix makes the difference I think it will.
  • tiffnboys123tiffnboys123 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 intrigue 3800 motor. as i was driving to work one day my car just shut off. almost as if i ran out of gas... i tried to start it and the battery was dead!!all my lights were on and windows rolled down but very slow and dim.. we replaced the battery and the starter and the altinator. someone said to try the crank shaft position sensor? we have jumped the car and even double jumped it and the car wont start. the battery is draining everytime.. what do i do?
  • workingonitworkingonit Member Posts: 1
    I see you have posted this long ago. I have an Olds Intrigue 2000 3.5L same exact symptoms. I can tell you what its not because these are the things I did to remedy the problem. Spark plugs, air filter, PCV valve, MAF sensor. I only cleaned my MAF sensor by taking it off the plenum and spraying it with carb cleaner and using an air compressor to get any carbon buildup off there. I used a nylon brush to clean the screen and it really was filthy but when I got it back together and test drove it, there was no change at all in stalling or starting with a warm engine. Mine starts fine in the morning and then later its a total cluster F.
    My local shop gives a trouble code reader for free and it has absolutely no trouble codes. My next step is to try the fuel pressure regulator, CPS, and fuel filter. Did you fix yours? HELP, I don't want to put a lot of money in this car again....
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    Hey I'm just reposting what I replied to others...hope it helps

    My car had this problem for awhile before I got it figured out. Almost a year of intermittent issues. What my car would do would not start some days and others it would be fine. Many times it would actually stall while driving at any speed, It even stalled on me on the damn highway. I had a bunch of parts replaced, the crank sensor, the computer, oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, actual ignition switich (the switch where the key goes into).The problem was so hard to find since it was intermittent. At one point I had no problems for two months but the problem eventually got worse and worse to the point where the car would not start at all.
    I finally to it to a local GM dealer and they found the issue.

    ""on inspection found the ignition voltage to the PCM was dropping off the battery voltage to 3volts and then the car would not run correctly. Need new Electrical Ignition Switch"

    So I'm pretty sure it was the swtich behind the key cylinder(the key cylinder is below)

    I think that this was the part giving me issues ====> http://www.racepages.com/parts/ignition_switch/oldsmobile/intrigue.html
    It is a switch behind the above part.
    It was shorting out the voltage to the battery shutting down the engine.
    Yeah the dash lights and the engine light would flash on and off, the rpm guage would just die.. it was weird..
    Have a mechanic you know try to fix if if you can cause the GM dealers rip you off..
    maybe quote what i did above should help.
    Since they fixed that part my car has been fine..
    hope this helps
    keep me posted..
    thanks
    chris
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    e-mail me at [email protected] if you like
  • 99intrigue199intrigue1 Member Posts: 13
    I also had a problem with the car not starting. It took longer and longer for it to crank until it finally wouldn't start at all. This was one problem I never had before (160K miles). I also never had a problem with the Olds stalling or cutting out.
    'Mechanics' first said it was the battery, and replaced mine ($250), even though it tested fine! Problem continued. Then they replaced the alternator (almost $500). No difference. Finally went to another mechanic, and they replaced the starter ($300). Problem solved!
    ALSO....after the starter was replaced, the instrument gauges were FINE (no service engine soon light and trac lights going on and off, and the gauges weren't going crazy)!
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    $250 for a battery, that a ripoff, batteries should be no more that a $100 bucks plus 20 to install, get a new mechanice.. lol..
    if you still have probelms read my other posts.....
  • krazykrycekkrazykrycek Member Posts: 18
    $250 for a battery, that a ripoff, batteries should be no more that a $100 bucks plus 20 to install, get a new mechanice.. lol..
    if you still have probelms read my other posts.....
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