Interesting assumption. Myself, synthetic oil at reasonable intervals with K&N (flow versus filtering ability) and 200,000 miles. Transmission will not make 300,000 in 99% of autos today.
I use Mobil 1 Synthetic oil in all five of my Toyota vehicles. Oil changes are at 10,000 mile intervals, with oil filters changed every 5,000 miles. It keeps it simple to remember.
I put Mobil 1 gear oil (75W-80) in differentials (non limited slip type), transfer cases, and manual transmissions when new, and change it every 100,000 miles thereafter.
While I'm under the vehicle changing the motor oil every 10,000 miles, I slide the drain pan over and change the automatic trans fluid too, using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity (usually 2.5 to 3.5 quarts). I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles, replacing the pan gasket and carefully cleaning the filter. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it. I pay $3.00/quart for T-IV fluid, buying it in case quantities from a dealer. I feel the average $10.00 for 10,000 miles is cheap insurance for reliable trans operation.
Don't forget to bleed the brakes until clear fluid is seen, starting with the brake cylinder furthest from the master cylinder. I do this when I change the radiator fluid every year in October. Sucking out the power steering reservoir with a turkey baster I stole from my wife, and replacing the fluid finishes my autumn ritual.
I guess I'm one of the car owners the guy in Post #5362 is referring to. Oh, I also buy the Toyota Shop Manuals for the vehicles. I love the step by step directions, and finding wires simply by their color and stripes.
Wow, talk about overkill. I change the tranny fluid in my 92 Camry abour every 20-30,000 with synthetic but the filter only twice in 160,000 miles and both of those were a waste of time. Nothing really there, some debris around the magnet. The differential is pretty easy to change as well but as it shares the ATF with the tranny why bother. I just purchased a heavy duty syphon/pump to syphon out the ATF in liew of the drain plug as not all my cars have plugs. Hope it is easier.
I honestly don't like Toyota for the Toyota only fluids, Toyota Red Coolant, their ATF etc. Why can't they all get consistent and have the same OTC equivalents as well. I won't buy another Toyota because of this and other reasons as well. The service manuals are great, not always correct though, Toyota factory informed me that mine has an incorrect statement (after I argued with the dealer of quite a while) on adjusting the valves and is WRONG!
I just got a cheap 2004 Chev Cavalier. Mainly for the Ecotec 140 hp motor, but surprised by the "perceived quality" so far - no squeaks or rattles, solid feel over bumps. Some handling issues I will sort out with suspension mods.
Chevy, for the 2004 models, is unhappy with the oil industry's failue to come to grips with GF-4 proposed standards. (I thought we just settled these oil quality issues with the SL designation upgrade?)
Anyway, they have "reapplied" their GM 6094M technical requirement. The owners manual doesn't give its blessing to SL plus "starburst;" the oil must be "starburst" plus GM 6094M. Chevy doesn't tell you what their tech requirement is, although a visit to the Castrol website indicates their dino based GTX oil does satisfy the requirement.
A couple of other wrinkles. The manual "favors," in my opinion, 3,000 mile oil changes, not 7,500 mile changes (or the intermediate 5k level chosen by some other manufacturers). "IF" you drive all highway, use 7,500. OTHERWISE use 3,000 miles. Instead of calling 3,000 miles "severe" service, they reference "light" and "heavy" driving modes.
In addition, if you have a prevailing temp of less than 21 C, they recommend either (i) synthetic or (ii) 0W-30 (is there 0-30 in a NON synthetic?).
Now the problem I face is two fold:
The Ecotec engine is a joint development with European engineers at Saab and Opel.
The Ectoec engine is DOHC, 10.5 compression, puts out 140 hp. Compare this to the prior 2.2 PUSHROD (for heaven's sake!) engine that generated a measly 115 hp.
So I think I share Chevy's nervousness about what goes into the engine, and how often it's changed.
That having been said, since the Ecotec has the new drop in oil filter (no cannister) only Chevy dealers (and Pontiac) are up to doing the oil changes these days - my local Jiffy Lube doesn't stock the filter. Dealer oil changes are a little pricey - $39.95 - I can live with that - but inconvenient.
So here are my options, what are your thoughts:
1. Dealer oil changes at 3k. GM Goodwrench oil, which satisifes the GM spec and hence the GM warranty.
2. Dealer oil changes at 3,750 miles. This puts me on the 7,500 mile schedule, but uses the old "twice as often" rule of thumb. Keeps me out of the dealership a little.
3. Mobil 1 - carry it in for the dealer to install - and choose a 3, 3.75 or 5k interval. The perceived benefits to me are - better protection during fast acceleration when there might be oil starvation, better protection on high speed interstate runs (esp. in summer), and climbing hills; and of course slightly extended oil change intervals - going to 5k miles would make life a lot simpler. So if I can get BETTER PROTECTION plus an EXTRA 2,000 MIlES I will bite the bullet and return to Mobil 1.
Like you say, it will get me on record, and I can do the 3,750 oil change at a trusted shop where I can watch the whole process...and make sure the Mobil 1 actually goes in the car, and not in the back of the mechanic's pickup.
how about finding a Chevy dealer that charges somewhere south of 40 bucks for an oil change? That's a ridiculously high figure. Even 30 bucks is high, but at least it's within reason. 40 is crazy. Does your dealer charge 40 bucks for all vehicles, or does this new 'drop-in' filter add to the normal cost?
Or, as others suggested, change your own.
Or bring the dealer the Mobil 1 and change it at 5k or longer intervals.
I take both my GM vehicles back to the dealer for regular service and frequently receive GM service coupons for items such as: oil changes, coolant flush, tire rotation, tune-ups, transmission service, etc.
I started to receive these coupons after registering my vehicles at mygmlink.com
All you need is the vehicle vin # and a copy of the current registration for the vehicle.
My last oil change only cost $21.95 with the coupon.
Yeah, my local dealer will change oil and filter and lube for 18 dollars (72 per hr) shop time and disposal fees of like 2 dollars. When I bring the Mobil One @3.65-4.50 per quart and the oil filter. While this is far from highly technical shop time it does tie up one person for 15 min and the lift.
Do it yourself; since the filter is accessible from under the hood I would suggest getting an oil extractor- http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122 -so you won't have to go under the car. I'm almost certain that the drop-in filter element you need will cross-reference to other European cars. If that is the case you should have no problem finding an equivalent filter manufactured by Mahle or Mann. I use an extractor on my wife's 528i as well as my 318ti Club Sport track rat. They both use drop-in filter elements which are inexpensive(@$6-$8) as well as a cinch to change. The Europeans have gone to the drop-in elements because they are easier to recycle than a spin on filter. I still change my Wrangler's oil the old fashioned way only because I can reach the drain plug without raising the truck. In my experience I've found that the extractor removes about 99+% of the oil that would be removed by a conventional drain. Mercedes dealers are beginning to use the same procedure to change oil at their dealerships; most M-B oil filters no longer come with a drain plug gasket. In any event, I would NEVER allow the borderline sentient employees of Jiffy Boob to touch any of my vehicles; I've seen too many stripped drain plugs and ruined engines. As for oil, I think that the Mobil 1 is an excellent choice. A friend who runs a construction company had the Mobil 1 he runs in his BMW M50 engine analyzed several times using the same company that analyzes his heavy equipment oil. At 10K miles the Mobil 1 was still good. A 7500 mile change interval using 0W-30 Mobil 1 should be fine.
You said: "In any event, I would NEVER allow the borderline sentient employees of Jiffy Boob to touch any of my vehicles"
I kind of feel the same way; but extend the feeling to the oil change people at dealerships (not big bucks, no commish). My former girl friend had her oh-so-sensitive oil pan stripped by her Honda dealer.
Yes, a lot of dealer service departments are pathetic-but there are a few good ones out there. My nearest Jeep dealer has an abysmal service department. In contrast, the dealer who sold me my Sahara is very good. Ditto for the BMW dealer where I bought my wife's 3er. I will let them perform minor maintenance on my cars when they offer special pricing or discount coupons and I'm too busy to do the job myself.
The nearby Honda dealer has an express oil change lane that accepts other makes. They are pretty careful there although, alas, they don't use torque wrenches to tighten the oil drain plugs.
I found out my Scion xA will accept a Fram "sure change" drain plug. This is a plug with a hand tightened dust cap; you screw on a drain hose that releases the rubber drain plug that really holds the oil in. In other words, no need to put the bolt itself on and off the car. I thought this was designed for DIY's to save time digging the drain bolt out of the oil pan, but actually it's neat idea for avoiding overtightened drain plugs/replacing oil pans.
Anyway the Honda express lane people gladly installed the Fram drain plug for me. They also let me hang out so I could confirm the oil change. I think watching is always a good thing.
This was my first oil change at 3k. I put in Castrol GTX 5-20 (Walmart was out of Motorcraft semisynthetic which is the same price). The Castrol satisfies the Ford WSS series test though.
Although Toyota is still spec'd for 5-30 oil, I want to see how the 5-20 performs. It is better engineered than SL grade 5-30. As for the viscosity variation, I think since Honda uses it, it should be ok, plus it's not like they changed anything in the engines at Honda - both Honda and Ford recommend 5-20 in their models going back 5-10 years, with a few exceptions. I just think Toyota is being a little conservative.
I will keep you posted on any consumption issues and mileage returns.
I recently bought some Saab branded 0/30 synthetic from my local dealer . It was 17.00 for a 4 litre jug " singles available " . What a bargain for a imported oil !
It is a Total/ Fina ELF product that GM is susidising the cost of I'm told . I think this is one of the better deals out there and at 9-10k miles I guess I will have it analised to see how it does in service " 7200 currently with no consumption ".
Just a heads up for those that like synthetic oils at bargain prices . They also have a 5/30 blend for less than 11.00 per 4 litres .
Also , the new Torcousa site has their new line of street oil called the SR-1 on sale for 4.75 per litre and 3.00 shipping no matter how much is purchased . It promises to be a good oil given Torco's racing heritage .I don't buy mail order oils but with that type pricing on the shipping I suppose I'll try the new synthetic of the market.
Glad to see some alternatives popping up in the motor oil world although I must say the 5/30 Mobile Drive Clean Plus did very well at 6k miles and I caught it on sale for 1.29 a quart at Autozone !
Before I purchased I contacted SAAB and the MSDS was faxed to me. Although the MSDS is at work right now I remember it to show the CAS # 68037-4-1 which is PAO . The oil does not have the API Starburst " no big deal " as it's made to GM spec for the SAAB . On the jugs it has GM LL A 025 ACEA A5/B5 API SL/CF.
In Europe unlike the USA an oil must be a true synthetic basestock " not group III to me marketed as such "
I saw on another site where the virgin TBN is a whopping 17 ! The 2003 Turbocharged Saab this oil is for runs 10k oil intervals so I'm told by other owners . I based on the MSDS believe this oil to be the real deal .
Seldom if ever spoke of but true over the counter PAO synlubes include the
5/30 Phillips Trop Artic 5/30 and 10/30 Shell synthetic " the 10/30 is ACEA A3 rated "
FWIW I'm not opposed to group III's other than the price for a glorified dino but if I bought some it would have to be A3 rated .
The best deals so far I've seen on group III PCMO's is the A3 Kendall 10/30 and the 5/40 Kendall at $ 2.90 per quart . I haven't tried them though and doubt I'll ever get away from true synlubes . If I do, I'll go back to Motorcraft and Mobils offerings .
Boy that is a fine motor oil " that Jetta's a fine car too ! " but it is simply too heavy a vi at 40c for my 4.6 Ford motor and the ambient where I live.
A bit off topic but..... I have some knowledge of almost all oils available in the USA but the new Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5/40 with it's Group III/PAO basestock is a mystery in terms of I have not seen an analysis nor heard any feedback from anyone using it.
Lubromoly uses a group III/PAO basestock with their 0/40 and it did very well in the analysis I saw. So it seems if group III is hopped up a bit , not such a bad deal ?
Too many oils and not enough time to try them all for us oil junkies He He !
I recently purchased a 2002 Oldsmobile Alero with the 3.4 liter V6 pushrod engine. In my previous vehicle (3.1 liter V6 Malibu) I used Valvoline Durablend 5W30 engine oil. On my new car (or new to me at least) I was thinking about switching to Mobil 1 full synthetic with either a Mobil or Fram filter or Valvoline SynPower with the same filters as mentioned above. Which would be better for my vehicle? What have your experiences been with either oil? Does anyone recommend anything else other than these brands? Which ever oil I choose, I will use 5W30 grade, and will only use full synthetic in the new ride. BTW the vehicle has 27K miles on her.
Any response on this post would be great! Thanks a lot!
I would suggest going to bobistheoilguy.com and reading some of the many used oil analysis results. Based on the experience of many other synthetic oil users you should be able to conclude which oils best suit your particular type of car and engine.
It is truly "manufactured" whereas the others are "extremely refined dino oil." There has been a lot of controversy about this. "Extremely refined dino oils" offer "most" of the benefits of true synthetic, but cost half as much to make. The cost savings is NOT passed along to us. If you are paying $4.50 to $6.00 a quart, you should get your money's worth - Mobil 1.
The 0W30 Castrol Syntec oil is a true synthetic and is made in Germany as compared to the 0W30 that was and still may be marketed in this country. If you look at the back of the container the 0W has the made in Germay language and appears to be a great oil. The other Castrol Syntecs are not true synthetics. This German oil appears to be a winner from posts on other boards.
is the recommended oil for all newer Porsches....and they have the racing and air cooled engine experience to help decide which oil last the longest at high temp.
most organic oils lose their long chain fatty acid and gets cut short by the high temps.
synthetics are engineered to stay lubricating longer when under high temp....the long chain polymers do not become fragmented as easily.
is also factory fill for the Corvette. Since I have been using Mobil One for more miles than I probably care to admit AND using 15,000 oil and filter change intervals continued use in the Corvette was a no brainer for me. I am pushing 58k with Mobil One in the Corvette. I have changed the oil I think 4 times.
Another oil, Mobil Delvac One 5w40, is another (better than Mobil One) superior (diesel, TDI) oil that is backward compatible to the SL/SJ standard.
One can substitue it for, mix with Mobil One. It is/can be however slightly more expensive. (current stash is 3.70 vs 5.00 per quart)
First the viscosity, 5w40. The next is it is blended for diesel operation (it meets the CI-4 standard) It is as I have stated, backwards compatible for the current SL standard. It has soot resistence (diesel puts back soot in the oil) For SL application the Mobil Delvac One is actually a better oil. This is not to say that Mobil One is not one of the best. Both oil have pretty high TBN starting numbers. Also oil analysis shows that in many cases at 15k the oils still are performing well.
Thanks for the info. If I ever own a diesel, I'll try it out.
Been using Mobil 1 5w30 in a new vehicle with GM's "Oil Life" computer.
Don't know much about the system but the information states that the onboard computer monitors all driving conditions (engine rpm, temperature, vehicle speeds, idling, etc) and decides how much oil longevity is left in a percentage format.
Would I be correct to assume that using the Mobil 1 would increase the longevity of the oil life by the computer's calculations?
I'm don't know how the computer can differentiate between standard and synthetic.
I have a serious fear of allowing the engine oil life computer to expire even though I am using the synthetic and having GM tell me that my vehicle's engine is no longer protected under the warranty because I did not service it properly.
"Been using Mobil 1 5w30 in a new vehicle with GM's "Oil Life" computer.
Don't know much about the system but the information states that the onboard computer monitors all driving conditions (engine rpm, temperature, vehicle speeds, idling, etc) and decides how much oil longevity is left in a percentage format.
Would I be correct to assume that using the Mobil 1 would increase the longevity of the oil life by the computer's calculations?
I'm don't know how the computer can differentiate between standard and synthetic.
I have a serious fear of allowing the engine oil life computer to expire even though I am using the synthetic and having GM tell me that my vehicle's engine is no longer protected under the warranty because I did not service it properly.
Any suggestions? "
Let me see, the Corvette has the GM oil life computer. Since OEM fill is Mobil One 5w30 the algorithm is set for the synthetic specification (specifically GM spec 4718) . The owner's manual perhaps is the print guide and it says NTE 1 year or 15k miles. Mine usually is on track for 14,600 miles or a bit less. What does your information say for your particular GM product?
Have any of you guys heard of this oil? It was synthetic oil for piston aircraft engines that Mobil introduced and it was derived from Mobil 1.
It ended up sludging a number of aircraft engines, Mobil was sued and settled (paid for top engine overhaul for a number of engines – from $9,000 to $30,000 per engine depending on the engine), and removed the oil from the market.
I think the explanation was that even though the synthetic oil could lubricate better, it was not able to remove contaminants as well as dino oil. This was particularly true for high powered turbo engines. Of course, all this may have no significance for automotive engines, as they are totally different in the type of contaminants that result. Still I found this interesting.
I don't believe that computer has any way of knowing whether you are using dino or synthetic and would is probably programmed for dino.
I have this on a 2000 Buick that is supposed to not permit anything over 7500 intervals. I simply reset it at around 6000 and use a 12,000 mile interval. Oil analysis has been fine. This one is the 3.8L v6 3800 SC
The thing about the GM computer is it takes readings; such has how many times the car starts, stops, length of trip, etc etc and comes up with a % calculation based on a number of parameters. It does not however do an actual oil test!
Regarding the Mobil AV-1 oil, it was a somewhat different formulation than Mobil 1 for cars. That said, it didn't do a good job on the piston engined aircraft for two basic reasons.
1) It has been proven that for what ever reason, synthetic oil (pick a brand, any brand) is incapable of holding lead in suspension. Unfortunately all AvGas sold world wide is called "100LL", or 100 Octane/Low-Lead. The low lead part is a bit of a misnomer as the lead content can legally vary over a rather wide range. When too much lead built up in the oil, it started clogging things like oil filters, oil coolers and oil galleries, which as you can well imagine is a bad thing.
2) Unlike car engines which are typically driven many times per week, a typical engine in the GA fleet flies a little more than once a month. Combine the infrequent usage patterns with the stability of synthetic oil (a typical Continental or Lycoming will have lots of varnish all over the inside of the motor in as little as 50 hours from overhaul, which protects the internal components) and you have an open invitation for rust to form on the internal engine components. Also a very bad thing.
In my case, I use Mobil 1 in all of my cars (and have for over 20 years), and a straight weight dino-juice called AeroShell W100 in any air-cooled AvGas fueled aircraft engine I fly.
Yes, that's what I've heard too. The question then is, what if you're flying a plane with an STC for Autogas use, and you fly regularly. Would you put synthetic oil in that engine?
Well, for starters, even if my plane had the MoGas STC, I would still use AvGas. There have been lengthy debates within the GA community regarding MoGas, and the consensus seems to be that IF you can find a MoGas supplier that adheres to certain very strict guidelines (which the vast bulk of MoGas out there does not meet), then go for it. That said, there is talk of a couple of new AvGas standards, primarily with no lead and a slightly lower octane rating.
So, now the question is; would I use a fully synthetic aviation approved oil in a plane if I used the new no lead AvGas AND flew my plane regularly (at least once a week)?
Hmmm, maybe. At this point, I am not aware of any GA approved engine oil for piston engines that is fully synthetic. Shell and others have synthetic blends on the market, however, I suspect that is simply due to the previously mentioned lead issue. Will there be fully synthetic GA oil in the future? Probably. Will there be fully synthetic GA oil that will perform better in standard issue Lycoming and Continental air cooled boxer engines? Maybe.
Another way to look at it is this; in my opinion, the days of flying behind AvGas fueled piston engines are numbered. Modern technology has substantially bypassed the “Cutting edge” 1946 technology of say the Continental O-300, and those of us who are likely to be owning older planes over the next decade would do themselves a favor by choosing one of the many new diesel engines that are starting to hit the market instead of a conventional overhaul.
In my case, I am probably going to avoid the issue entirely and opt for a diesel engine in my next plane.
I can tell you that if GM actually told you that using Mobil1 voided your warranty, they were mistaken. I went in for a leak under warranty and told the dealer that I run Mobil1 and expected the same. I watched them throughout and made sure they did.
My experiences with the computer: I've been alerted anywhere from about 6000 to over 7000 based on type of driving. I generally wait until the 10% warning and then change when I have time. I could go longer, but I used to always change at 3000 and like the fact that I can be sure my engine is protected with syn and I am under the car half as much.
"Hopefully this will help me determine the accuracy of the oil life system and its credibility. "
For sure that plan of action will show the results.There is actually a web site that has done exactly this in an LS1 engine. http://neptune.spacebears.com/index.html Oil samples were taken at 1000k intervals all the way to 16,000-18,000 miles, if I am not mistaken. (Iused to have the web site handy but for some reason is no long on my favorites list) There was also a baseline or new unused oil, oil analysis. The only "fly in the ointment" is that ea sample test used 4 oz of oil. So with 19 tests that can equate to app 76 oz or 2.375 qt. the upshot is that the oil tests showed the oil still doing its job and they (management wise) changed out the oil, still performing nicely, but to start another years test on Amsoil!
Hello Highender! Do you happen to know what the Factory oil fill is for the Porsche Cayenne?
well, the factory owners manual says 9.5 qts. I called the dealer and asked if I should get an oil change,,,,I'm at 8878 miles; and they said it was too early. I thought that since this was the original break-in oil, that it would be better to change it, so yesterday I brought it in and had just the oil drained....til the last few drops...but they did not have the oil filter, so just put in 8 qts....new oil, mixed with 1.5 old oil. Now I saw the color of the old oil, and it was black ....but probably still good for lubrication purposes.
What is the oil capacity of the corvette ? I think it may need a lot because it is a high performance engine... ??
I am going to try to get an oil filter on the internet.....for the next change...
Comments
Thanks
I put Mobil 1 gear oil (75W-80) in differentials (non limited slip type), transfer cases, and manual transmissions when new, and change it every 100,000 miles thereafter.
While I'm under the vehicle changing the motor oil every 10,000 miles, I slide the drain pan over and change the automatic trans fluid too, using the drain plug found on all Toyota trans pans. Since the torque converter is not drained, refill is only 25% to 40% of full trans fluid capacity (usually 2.5 to 3.5 quarts). I drop the pan and clean it every 40,000 to 50,000 miles, replacing the pan gasket and carefully cleaning the filter. I don't use synthetic trans fluid, but adhere to Toyota's recommendation for use of Type T-IV fluid in the tranmissions that require it. I pay $3.00/quart for T-IV fluid, buying it in case quantities from a dealer. I feel the average $10.00 for 10,000 miles is cheap insurance for reliable trans operation.
Don't forget to bleed the brakes until clear fluid is seen, starting with the brake cylinder furthest from the master cylinder. I do this when I change the radiator fluid every year in October. Sucking out the power steering reservoir with a turkey baster I stole from my wife, and replacing the fluid finishes my autumn ritual.
I guess I'm one of the car owners the guy in Post #5362 is referring to. Oh, I also buy the Toyota Shop Manuals for the vehicles. I love the step by step directions, and finding wires simply by their color and stripes.
I honestly don't like Toyota for the Toyota only fluids, Toyota Red Coolant, their ATF etc. Why can't they all get consistent and have the same OTC equivalents as well. I won't buy another Toyota because of this and other reasons as well. The service manuals are great, not always correct though, Toyota factory informed me that mine has an incorrect statement (after I argued with the dealer of quite a while) on adjusting the valves and is WRONG!
Chevy, for the 2004 models, is unhappy with the oil industry's failue to come to grips with GF-4 proposed standards. (I thought we just settled these oil quality issues with the SL designation upgrade?)
Anyway, they have "reapplied" their GM 6094M technical requirement. The owners manual doesn't give its blessing to SL plus "starburst;" the oil must be "starburst" plus GM 6094M. Chevy doesn't tell you what their tech requirement is, although a visit to the Castrol website indicates their dino based GTX oil does satisfy the requirement.
A couple of other wrinkles. The manual "favors," in my opinion, 3,000 mile oil changes, not 7,500 mile changes (or the intermediate 5k level chosen by some other manufacturers). "IF" you drive all highway, use 7,500. OTHERWISE use 3,000 miles. Instead of calling 3,000 miles "severe" service, they reference "light" and "heavy" driving modes.
In addition, if you have a prevailing temp of less than 21 C, they recommend either (i) synthetic or (ii) 0W-30 (is there 0-30 in a NON synthetic?).
Now the problem I face is two fold:
The Ecotec engine is a joint development with European engineers at Saab and Opel.
The Ectoec engine is DOHC, 10.5 compression, puts out 140 hp. Compare this to the prior 2.2 PUSHROD (for heaven's sake!) engine that generated a measly 115 hp.
So I think I share Chevy's nervousness about what goes into the engine, and how often it's changed.
That having been said, since the Ecotec has the new drop in oil filter (no cannister) only Chevy dealers (and Pontiac) are up to doing the oil changes these days - my local Jiffy Lube doesn't stock the filter. Dealer oil changes are a little pricey - $39.95 - I can live with that - but inconvenient.
So here are my options, what are your thoughts:
1. Dealer oil changes at 3k. GM Goodwrench oil, which satisifes the GM spec and hence the GM warranty.
2. Dealer oil changes at 3,750 miles. This puts me on the 7,500 mile schedule, but uses the old "twice as often" rule of thumb. Keeps me out of the dealership a little.
3. Mobil 1 - carry it in for the dealer to install - and choose a 3, 3.75 or 5k interval. The perceived benefits to me are - better protection during fast acceleration when there might be oil starvation, better protection on high speed interstate runs (esp. in summer), and climbing hills; and of course slightly extended oil change intervals - going to 5k miles would make life a lot simpler. So if I can get BETTER PROTECTION plus an EXTRA 2,000 MIlES I will bite the bullet and return to Mobil 1.
Mobil 1.
Or, as others suggested, change your own.
Or bring the dealer the Mobil 1 and change it at 5k or longer intervals.
I think its high, too.
Ford has express lanes that charge $26 and they mail you coupons after the first time.
Oh well.
oil changes, coolant flush, tire rotation, tune-ups, transmission service, etc.
I started to receive these coupons after registering my vehicles at mygmlink.com
All you need is the vehicle vin # and a copy of the current registration for the vehicle.
My last oil change only cost $21.95 with the coupon.
I kind of feel the same way; but extend the feeling to the oil change people at dealerships (not big bucks, no commish). My former girl friend had her oh-so-sensitive oil pan stripped by her Honda dealer.
I found out my Scion xA will accept a Fram "sure change" drain plug. This is a plug with a hand tightened dust cap; you screw on a drain hose that releases the rubber drain plug that really holds the oil in. In other words, no need to put the bolt itself on and off the car. I thought this was designed for DIY's to save time digging the drain bolt out of the oil pan, but actually it's neat idea for avoiding overtightened drain plugs/replacing oil pans.
Anyway the Honda express lane people gladly installed the Fram drain plug for me. They also let me hang out so I could confirm the oil change. I think watching is always a good thing.
This was my first oil change at 3k. I put in Castrol GTX 5-20 (Walmart was out of Motorcraft semisynthetic which is the same price). The Castrol satisfies the Ford WSS series test though.
Although Toyota is still spec'd for 5-30 oil, I want to see how the 5-20 performs. It is better engineered than SL grade 5-30. As for the viscosity variation, I think since Honda uses it, it should be ok, plus it's not like they changed anything in the engines at Honda - both Honda and Ford recommend 5-20 in their models going back 5-10 years, with a few exceptions. I just think Toyota is being a little conservative.
I will keep you posted on any consumption issues and mileage returns.
It is a Total/ Fina ELF product that GM is susidising the cost of I'm told . I think this is one of the better deals out there and at 9-10k miles I guess I will have it analised to see how it does in service " 7200 currently with no consumption ".
Just a heads up for those that like synthetic oils at bargain prices . They also have a 5/30 blend for less than 11.00 per 4 litres .
Also , the new Torcousa site has their new line of street oil called the SR-1 on sale for 4.75 per litre and 3.00 shipping no matter how much is purchased . It promises to be a good oil given Torco's racing heritage .I don't buy mail order oils but with that type pricing on the shipping I suppose I'll try the new synthetic of the market.
Glad to see some alternatives popping up in the motor oil world although I must say the 5/30 Mobile Drive Clean Plus did very well at 6k miles and I caught it on sale for 1.29 a quart at Autozone !
In Europe unlike the USA an oil must be a true synthetic basestock " not group III to me marketed as such "
I saw on another site where the virgin TBN is a whopping 17 ! The 2003 Turbocharged Saab this oil is for runs 10k oil intervals so I'm told by other owners . I based on the MSDS believe this oil to be the real deal .
Seldom if ever spoke of but true over the counter PAO synlubes include the
5/30 Phillips Trop Artic
5/30 and 10/30 Shell synthetic " the 10/30 is ACEA A3 rated "
FWIW I'm not opposed to group III's other than the price for a glorified dino but if I bought some it would have to be A3 rated .
The best deals so far I've seen on group III PCMO's is the A3 Kendall 10/30 and the 5/40 Kendall at $ 2.90 per quart . I haven't tried them though and doubt I'll ever get away from true synlubes . If I do, I'll go back to Motorcraft and Mobils offerings .
May I suggest Mobil Delvac One 5w40? I personally use this in a turbo charged diesel Jetta TDI.
The above link gives references to the standards you will probably need to meet.
I am doing a 10,000 mile interval for warranty purposes and will probably go to 15,20 k intervals after expiration.
Mobil Delvac One 5w40 sells for roughly 5 dollars a qt (in one gal (4qt) container)
A bit off topic but.....
I have some knowledge of almost all oils available in the USA but the new Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5/40 with it's Group III/PAO basestock is a mystery in terms of I have not seen an analysis nor heard any feedback from anyone using it.
Lubromoly uses a group III/PAO basestock with their 0/40 and it did very well in the analysis I saw. So it seems if group III is hopped up a bit , not such a bad deal ?
Too many oils and not enough time to try them all for us oil junkies He He !
http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart5.htm
Any response on this post would be great! Thanks a lot!
Jeremy
Based on the experience of many other synthetic oil users you should be able to conclude which oils best suit your particular type of car and engine.
Also used by Mercedes, BMW, Mini, Corvette, etc.
most organic oils lose their long chain fatty acid and gets cut short by the high temps.
synthetics are engineered to stay lubricating longer when under high temp....the long chain polymers do not become fragmented as easily.
I think syn is the way to go.
Another oil, Mobil Delvac One 5w40, is another (better than Mobil One) superior (diesel, TDI) oil that is backward compatible to the SL/SJ standard.
One can substitue it for, mix with Mobil One. It is/can be however slightly more expensive. (current stash is 3.70 vs 5.00 per quart)
I've been using Mobil 1 faithfully for 3 years and have never had a problem.
However, I am not familiar with the Delvac oil.
Been using Mobil 1 5w30 in a new vehicle with GM's "Oil Life" computer.
Don't know much about the system but the information states that the onboard computer monitors all driving conditions (engine rpm, temperature, vehicle speeds, idling, etc) and decides how much oil longevity is left in a percentage format.
Would I be correct to assume that using the Mobil 1 would increase the longevity of the oil life by the computer's calculations?
I'm don't know how the computer can differentiate between standard and synthetic.
I have a serious fear of allowing the engine oil life computer to expire even though I am using the synthetic and having GM tell me that my vehicle's engine is no longer protected under the warranty because I did not service it properly.
Any suggestions?
Don't know much about the system but the information states that the onboard computer monitors all driving conditions (engine rpm, temperature, vehicle speeds, idling, etc) and decides how much oil longevity is left in a percentage format.
Would I be correct to assume that using the Mobil 1 would increase the longevity of the oil life by the computer's calculations?
I'm don't know how the computer can differentiate between standard and synthetic.
I have a serious fear of allowing the engine oil life computer to expire even though I am using the synthetic and having GM tell me that my vehicle's engine is no longer protected under the warranty because I did not service it properly.
Any suggestions? "
Let me see, the Corvette has the GM oil life computer. Since OEM fill is Mobil One 5w30 the algorithm is set for the synthetic specification (specifically GM spec 4718) . The owner's manual perhaps is the print guide and it says NTE 1 year or 15k miles. Mine usually is on track for 14,600 miles or a bit less. What does your information say for your particular GM product?
It ended up sludging a number of aircraft engines, Mobil was sued and settled (paid for top engine overhaul for a number of engines – from $9,000 to $30,000 per engine depending on the engine), and removed the oil from the market.
I think the explanation was that even though the synthetic oil could lubricate better, it was not able to remove contaminants as well as dino oil. This was particularly true for high powered turbo engines. Of course, all this may have no significance for automotive engines, as they are totally different in the type of contaminants that result. Still I found this interesting.
A few links from the avweb site:
www.avweb.com/news/news/182891-1.html
www.avweb.com/news/news/182892-1.html
www.avweb.com/news/news/182893-1.html
I will try running the vehicle down to <10% oil life this time and then sampling my oil and sending it out to a lab for breakdown results.
Hopefully this will help me determine the accuracy of the oil life system and its credibility.
I have this on a 2000 Buick that is supposed to not permit anything over 7500 intervals. I simply reset it at around 6000 and use a 12,000 mile interval. Oil analysis has been fine. This one is the 3.8L v6 3800 SC
1) It has been proven that for what ever reason, synthetic oil (pick a brand, any brand) is incapable of holding lead in suspension. Unfortunately all AvGas sold world wide is called "100LL", or 100 Octane/Low-Lead. The low lead part is a bit of a misnomer as the lead content can legally vary over a rather wide range. When too much lead built up in the oil, it started clogging things like oil filters, oil coolers and oil galleries, which as you can well imagine is a bad thing.
2) Unlike car engines which are typically driven many times per week, a typical engine in the GA fleet flies a little more than once a month. Combine the infrequent usage patterns with the stability of synthetic oil (a typical Continental or Lycoming will have lots of varnish all over the inside of the motor in as little as 50 hours from overhaul, which protects the internal components) and you have an open invitation for rust to form on the internal engine components. Also a very bad thing.
In my case, I use Mobil 1 in all of my cars (and have for over 20 years), and a straight weight dino-juice called AeroShell W100 in any air-cooled AvGas fueled aircraft engine I fly.
Best Regards,
Shipo
So, now the question is; would I use a fully synthetic aviation approved oil in a plane if I used the new no lead AvGas AND flew my plane regularly (at least once a week)?
Hmmm, maybe. At this point, I am not aware of any GA approved engine oil for piston engines that is fully synthetic. Shell and others have synthetic blends on the market, however, I suspect that is simply due to the previously mentioned lead issue. Will there be fully synthetic GA oil in the future? Probably. Will there be fully synthetic GA oil that will perform better in standard issue Lycoming and Continental air cooled boxer engines? Maybe.
Another way to look at it is this; in my opinion, the days of flying behind AvGas fueled piston engines are numbered. Modern technology has substantially bypassed the “Cutting edge” 1946 technology of say the Continental O-300, and those of us who are likely to be owning older planes over the next decade would do themselves a favor by choosing one of the many new diesel engines that are starting to hit the market instead of a conventional overhaul.
In my case, I am probably going to avoid the issue entirely and opt for a diesel engine in my next plane.
Best Regards,
Shipo
My experiences with the computer: I've been alerted anywhere from about 6000 to over 7000 based on type of driving. I generally wait until the 10% warning and then change when I have time. I could go longer, but I used to always change at 3000 and like the fact that I can be sure my engine is protected with syn and I am under the car half as much.
the crankcase and transmission oil.
My experience has been that most synthetics are
too slippery so that the clutches cannont "grip".
As far as I've found, this is the only application
where a synthetic is not always successful.
Strangely, there never seems to be a problem
with synthetic ATF in automobiles. They might
even shift more smoothly with synthetic.
Anyone know of any warnings about using synthetics
in anything? The motorcycle situation is the
only one that I'm aware of.
remember.
Have always been pleased with how it keeps gaskets
and seals soft and pliable.
Have used in "old junkers", and it stopped leaks.
Maybe it's the base stock which is ester, I believe.
So, I think there are many differences between
one synthetic and another.
Am I wrong ?
UPS can bring any brand....
Never will forget the old CONSUMERS REPORTS...
They tested motor oils frequently....
Remember how Montgomery Ward's oils always were
unsatisfactory and Sears' was "recommended"....
Would still like to read a comparison between
the newer oils....
"Synthetic motor oil"
Or, do we talk about additives....
Crummy oil change places...
????
the oil life system and its credibility. "
For sure that plan of action will show the results.There is actually a web site that has done exactly this in an LS1 engine. http://neptune.spacebears.com/index.html
Oil samples were taken at 1000k intervals all the
way to 16,000-18,000 miles, if I am not mistaken. (Iused to have the web site handy but for some reason is no long on my favorites list) There was also a baseline or new unused oil, oil analysis. The only
"fly in the ointment" is that ea sample test used 4 oz of oil. So with 19 tests that can equate to app 76 oz or 2.375 qt. the upshot is that the oil tests showed the oil still doing its job and they (management wise) changed out the oil, still performing nicely, but to start another years test on Amsoil!
Hello Highender! Do you happen to know what the Factory oil fill is for the Porsche Cayenne?
I thought that since this was the original break-in oil, that it would be better to change it, so yesterday I brought it in and had just the oil drained....til the last few drops...but they did not have the oil filter, so just put in 8 qts....new oil, mixed with 1.5 old oil. Now I saw the color of the old oil, and it was black ....but probably still good for lubrication purposes.
What is the oil capacity of the corvette ? I think it may need a lot because it is a high performance engine... ??
I am going to try to get an oil filter on the internet.....for the next change...
:-)