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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Febreeze helps a lot
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Purchased at any auto parts store, the kind with the brush at the end so you spray, rub it in with the brush and wipe it off. Works great on indoor carpet stainds too

    Several different brands, all seem to work fine
  • raytoy44raytoy44 Posts: 10
    I have this too on a toyota camry 2002. It is always jumpy on the first shift to DRIVE even if it is not cold out.
    I also had the smell someone talked about, That stopped after a few weeks.

    I also have a front seat that shifts 1/4 inch that I read someone else has.

    AND the engine is weak and knocks on small hills.

    CAMRY 2002 is now like a common regular car, not a mini-Lexus.
  • raytoy44raytoy44 Posts: 10
    my 2002 CAMRY has many problems (I have seen others comment on most of these before me):
    --on shift when cold, it jumps into DRIVE,
    --engine knocks up hills and seems weak,
    --seat moves back on acceleration,
    --there was a smell for a few weeks,
    --trunk liner falls down--glue is poor.

    SHOULD I use OVERDRIVE OFF for local driving for more power? other wise it is ON for highway driving as the default.

    I had 3 prior new Toyotas since 1979. This one is crap in comparision. Sorry I bought it.
  • rocky5656rocky5656 Posts: 34
    My 89 Camry with V6 does about 2600 rpm at 110 km/h. with the stock 195/60 15 tires. At this speed I usually get about 32 mpg. Highest I ever got was about 35 while keeping under 100 km/h.
    Next tires I need I'm going up to 195/65 15 (little taller tire, less rpm at same speed, engine has lots of torque to handle it).
    Use a vacuum hose (about a foot long) slipped over the tip of the new plugs when installing in the rear head, just fish them in and turn on the hose to start the threads in the head, then finish with appropriate socket and ratchet. Don't forget the thread anti seize compound on the spark plug threads!! and don't tighten too tight!
    ( Very important in aluminum heads).
    My engine has 308,000 km. and on about 4th set of plugs, I find NGK platinum work better than the Bosch.
    Hope this helps you . :)
  • is 60K or 90K-thanks
  • I have had a Camry XLE 4 with Navigation for almost two months. It is great! This is the first car I have had with Navigation. It helps greatly when you are dealing with detours (map on screen) and helps with making trips shorter in some cases. As the instructions say, always use your own judgement.

    I am curious about how often they upgrade the CD Rom and what it costs to do so.
  • bj02176bj02176 Posts: 115
    My camry 4 is pretty good, had to have an alignment, and tire balance. Other then that not to shabby. Bland yet trouble free, brake pedal feel could be better. No rattles, solid construction. Good gas mileage. The 4 is quiet, shifts smoothly, and zooms to 80 very quickly. I think it seriously matches the 6 in my late Jeep liberty. Both are nothing special off the line. As I usually trade every year, currently looking at the 2003 Forester. This may be hard to give up, it may go the distance and be my other logevity car, 1976 Toyota Corona, kept that for 48,000 miles of mostly trouble free driving. It even made it home at 6 pm during the blizzard of 1978 with regular all season tires. (think New England all you other alien state dwellers)
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    In 1998 models with the 4-cylinder or V6, it's 90,000 miles.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    Hi, thanks for your reply.
    I am confused...

    1:
    1 mile = 1.6 KM, and 1 gallon = 3.8 liter, am I right? so my camry V6 does about 9 km per liter, so your kpl is (32 X 1.6) / 3.8 = 13.47 km per liter! way better than mine. BTW, will it make any difference if I change fule filter (can I do this myself?), plugs and air filter (I checked air filter, looks very clean).

    2:
    How does the speed sensor works? I mean how to determine the speed? I thought it senses wheel speed, say 400 RPM, and the outer diameter of the tire is e.g. 80 cm, so the speed is 400 X 3.14 X 0.8 = 1004 meter per min (or. 1 km/min or 60 km/hour).

    3:
    what do you mean about "Don't forget the thread anti seize compound on the spark plug threads!! "?

    4:
    hehe, admie your camry...it has 308.000 km...I am not sure if my camry can do it... :-(

    Thanks
  • rocky5656rocky5656 Posts: 34
    Hi there.

    1) Should be 1 Canadian gallon (British Imperial measure) = 4.4 litres of liquid. Perhaps U.S. gallon = 3.8 litres. Of course, a full tune up will effect fuel mileage, when considered with all the other factors i.e. engine condition, fuel injector condition, engine temperature, wind, altitude, weight in car, tire pressure and rolling resistance, etc, etc.

    2) Got me there, do you mean engine rpm or vehicle speed?

    3) Anti seize compound is a grease like substance put on threads to prevent, you guessed it, seizing of the threads in the other threads they are threaded into. Can be bought at any auto parts place. It is usually just a mixture of pulverized aluminum and some sort of grease. This stuff allows easier removal of the threaded parts next time around, and stops rusting together.

    I'm a mechanic, and get to remove some peoples plugs that were put in with about 1 million pounds of force :(

    By the way, whats the mileage on your Camry?
    Hope this helps.
  • jaybird44jaybird44 Posts: 8
    I just bought a 2002 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and auto trans, in January. I'm anticipating changing the oil soon, but I don't see the oil filter in the usual location. I've owned 5-6 cars since they started mounting the engines transversally and the oil filter was always on the engine block on the side toward the radiator. I haven't crawled up under the car to see if it's on the rear side of the block, but glancing back there with a flashlight didn't reveal anything that looked like an oil filter either. According to the FRAM website this 2.4L engine (2Z-FE) uses the same filter as my previous '92 Camry so I know what the filter looks like. Can anybody tell me where it is? And if you've changed the oil, are there any tricks to it? Also how can I not spill the oil everywhere when I remove the old filter? I always seem to spill the oil when I pull the oil filter off. Thanks.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I hope that you are not planning on using a Fram. Please, anything but.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Most Toyota 4 cylinder engines use the same oil filter (makes inventory easier, more efficient, costs less).

    My trick was to wait at least an hour before pulling the old filter out.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    I thought the V-6 engines in 92-96 Camrys were all the same. Someone said that their 92 V-6 runs at 3000RPM at 70mph. My 96 V-6 auto runs at 2500, and gets 30-31 mph If I drive at 70mph.

    Best mileage I ever got was 34.7 mpg when on icy road could not do faster than 50mph for about 280 miles.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    Oh, IC..so my camry isn't doing too bad...

    2: I mean the wheel rotation speed. I thought the speed sensor senses the wheel rotation speed, so if you install a taller tire (195/65), you may fool the sensor..since the standard tire is bit smaller (or shorter), the actual vehicle speed is little bit faster then the vehicle speed you see on the speed meter. please correct me if I am wrong.

    3:
    it has 166,000 KM now..it was 143,000 when I bought it last April...

    BTW, I used live in Saskatoon, I really miss Saskatchewan river, the dam near the railway bridge, where I caught lots of walleye & pike...

    Regards,
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    are you talking about US gallon (3.8L) or Imperial gallon (4.4 L)?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I have the 92 but I think the diff in years is not the engine it is the transmission and overdrive specifically. That may have changed in later years. The current V6 is (minor modifications done for 97 model year) is the same one from 92 on. If they changed the gearing in the overdrive you could easily get lower RPMS at 70 and better mileage.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    1992-1993: 3VZ-FE motor (iron block)
    1996 to today: 1MZ-FE (aluminum block)
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    The gallon are US gallons. 1US=3.785 liter. Why would I mess with Imperial Gallon, if I live in the US? If the British had not messed with the Standard metric system that almost all countries in the world use, we would not be talking about different gallons here.
  • eddieueddieu Posts: 3
    The problem was finally found with the posted problem #759 After hrs. of testing it was a faulty coil. the mechanic said that this is the first one he ever changed.
  • rocky5656rocky5656 Posts: 34
    Hey, cool that you lived here too. Where are you now?

    You are right about the wheel speed, with taller tires the speedometer will not read properly, yu will be going faster than what it says.

    Your Camry is just a baby at 166,000km. :)

    Here's what I've done to mine, if I remember right.
    * axle boots done twice so far, 1 new axle @300,000
    * alternator @ 280,000km.+ new belt
    * starter @ 290,000, ring gear starting to show wear
    * timing belt @140,000km. (due again)
    * front brake pads x2, rear pads x2, never machined the rotors, just deglazed them, still very good
    * valve cover gaskets done once, need again
    * rad fan relay @ 200,000 km.
    * power window wire broken in door where it bends
    * 3rd battery
    * 3rd windshield
    * headlite bulbs when necessary
    Pretty good eh, I think it's a great car, kind of got a classic style.
    Had some rust problems on the rear quarter panels, had them repaired once last year, front starting to show signs of rust now.
    Could use some front end work, getting loose now.

    Talk to you again!
  • stans40stans40 Posts: 16
    I was present when my new camry was preped 3 weeks ago. The AFT was at the cool level after the car had been driven several miles. Service man added about 1/2 quart of AFT. I noticed he used Shell dexron II III. When I got home and looked at my owner's manual it said in bold type use only Toyota T-IV AFT, anything else may damage your transmission. When I called the dealer(50 miles away and the closest) they didn't know anything about T-IV fluid so I told them to check to see if the Shell would hurt my car. Was later called by their customer service man who said they poured the T-IV AFT from big jugs(checked and these are only gallon containers) into the(unmarked) Shell containers. Also said the service man I talked to had not been briefed on T-IV. So it looks that they aren't going to admit they put the wrong fluid in my car. My question of course is; will the 1/2 quart of dexron III have any negative effects on my camry transmission? I called Toyota customer service, but the lady was no help and said Toyota did not answer that type question. Does anyone know of a Toyota telephone number to call besides customer service?
  • gp4gp4 Posts: 9
    unclebrenda did you get the problems fixed with your Camry? Did they cover it under the gel program?
  • morinkmorink Posts: 12
    I just picked up my new 2002 Camry LE V6 2 days ago and are experiencing the "Cold Shift Shock" syndrome exactly as you explained. When I start my car in the morning (idling at about 1500 RPM)I let it warm for about 1 to 2 minutes. The idle drops to about 1200 RPM's. I back up and when I shift into drive I get a hard thud as it goes into gear. I believe that the cold idle is set to high myself. After the car is driven (and the idle comes down to normal about 500 RPM) the car goes into gear just fine. I called the Toyota service center were I purchased the car and they told me that if I was not seeing a check light of some kind then what was happening is not a problem but normal operation (I don't believe it). I am going to research it a little more and if I find something I will post it. I would appreciate it if who ever is having this problem do the same. I cannot believe that this is normal especially for Toyota.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    I am in Toronto now...big city but I still miss sask...

    I don't know what the previous owner did before, but what I have done to mine so far is:

    1: one piece of gasket inside the transmission (garage, a story here :-))
    2: one CV-joint (garage)
    3: front brake pads + new rotors @ 157,000 (myself)

    (BTW, previous owner changed timeing belt @ 134,000)

    for the defective gasket inside the auto tranny, it's a big story...gear one to two shifting is VERY hard, like someone hit your head from your back, really annoying. So I drove my car to three toyota dealerships/MISTER transmission/two AMACO transmission shops/some small garages... they all told me: you need either rebuild your tranny (1200+) or get a new one (2000+)! (interesting, one mechanic in AMACO told me there was nothing wrong with the tranny! then I asked another mechanic in AMACO to check my vechile...he told me my tranny won't last 6 monthes! it need to be rebuild!) damn it, I just bought it. (it was my mistake, the previous owner knew this problem for sure, he didn't tell me, coz I asked him if there was anything wrong with the tranny and engine he said nothing is wrong. He said he is a lawyer, I would say he is a liar) OK, back to my story. I didn't believe it! It wouldn't be a big problem, so I searched on the internet...finally, one Volovo user had the same problem (he said both Volovo and Toyota use same tranny), he wrote a defective or wore out check ball will cause the problem. So I took my car to a small tranny shop, asked the mechanic just open the tranny, check the check balls and gaskets...thank god, he said one piece gasket was wore out. He replaced it and the problem was gone! I'm really happy with it...

    Also, my car has another problem...sometimes when I start the car, I hear high pitch sound/noise from the engine, I know it's the flywheel. The flywheel's teeth wore out, so sometimes the starter's teeth and the flywheel's teeth cann't engage. One mechanic told me it is not easy to replace the flywheel...transmission need to be removed in order to reach the flywheel....it is true? seems I have to spend big bucks on it... BTW, what's the symptom of "starter ring gear starting to show wear"? the same symptom like mine?

    Thanks!
  • rocky5656rocky5656 Posts: 34
    Interesting on the tranny. Yes, unfortunately some repair shops want to jump to the most expensive conclusion when diagnosing an engine/trans. problem. The power of the internet helps people like us to gather info and help each other!

    I was told by a friend of mine that rebuilds starters for a living that our breed of Camry is notorious for ring gears wearing out prematurely. he told me there is a special drive for the starter just to help stave off the wear. Sometimes, just a new starter with new drive will get you by for awhile. Only way to tell is to remove starter and look at the ring gear teeth, bad teeth will be damaged and quite pointy looking. If it makes the "big grinding noise" when trying to start, instead of engaging, try an new starter first, check the ring gear while its out. I've never had the inspection plate off the bottom of the trans. bell housing, can't even remember if it does come off ( Camrys run so good I never even go down there very much!)

    Don't know if the trans. has to be completely removed to get the flex plate (ring gear) off, usually you just separate the trans. from the engine, and move it apart enough (1 to 2 inches) to get at the bolts on the flex plate. However, with front wheel drive this entails removing the drive axles from the front hubs.

    Check with a shop that has the Mitchell Flat Rate Manual for telling how many hours it takes to do a certain job. He would look up (Flex plate- remove and replace - X number of hours) times labour rate = cost (plus part). I'll check here in town if I have time tommorow.

    Would be interesting to check Toyotas price on changing the ring gear, then calling a reputable private shop, should take the same amount of hours, right?

    Hey, I had a Mercury Villager van with the Nissan engine, 1993, "one" fuel injector was over $300.!
    Later..
  • xonxon Posts: 9
    I just bought a new 02 6 cyl LE two weeks ago, and I also get a very brief smell of rotten eggs from time to time. Besides the seats being too hard, the car drives nicely and I haven't had any problems so far.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    From my Mitchell Mechanical Labor Estimating Guide

    Flywheel (Auto Trans) R&R:

    Camry (83-91)

    Manual steering 6.9
    Power steering 7.4

    Multiply that by the shop's hourly rate.
  • morinkmorink Posts: 12
    I just picked up my new 2002 Camry LE V6 3 days ago and have some concerns regarding shifting in and out of overdrive. I had been driving a 1994 chevy corsica (v6) with overdrive. I always kept the overdrive on and really never noticed the shifting (very smooth)in and out of overdrive. My commute to work is 25 miles one way on back roads (35 to 45 MPH). On my Camry the shifting in and out (hunting) of overdrive is very noticeable (annoying). I guess the gear ratio between 3rd and 4th must be extreme. I was told by the service rep. not to use overdrive. This not not only makes the drive extra noisy (engine whining, higher revs) but will also decrease my gas mileage. If this is the nature of the beast then I feel it is a design flaw. Has anyone else noticed this.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    Wooo.... no cheap at all! 7.4 X 55 + parts + tax...! :-((((((
  • rocky5656rocky5656 Posts: 34
    Hi there, thanks for the info.

    Perhaps you know this one - had heard that all 4 stroke engines will "stop" at a certain point ( you turn the key off, engine slows and stops, usually due to 1 of the six pistons coming up on compression stoke), then thinking again, only 3 throws on the crankshaft,(V6) shared by 2 rods, so is there only 3 possible positions for the engine to stop at? Well, no , they may share the same crank journal, but each has a diferent point of crank rotation when reaching top dead center on compression.

    What I'm trying to determine is that is the starter drive always hitting the same spots on the ring gear? Does it hit a random spot , or how many spots is it repeatedly hitting?

    What's the answer?
    Thanks.
  • logitech1logitech1 Posts: 32
    >What I'm trying to determine is that is the
    >starter drive always hitting the same spots on
    >the ring gear? Does it hit a random spot , or
    >how many spots is it repeatedly hitting?

    I remember somewhere on the internet, people said the engine always stop at the same position, so the starter drive always hitting the same spots on the flywheel...it gotta be ture, otherwise I cann't image why it's so eays to wear out...
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    Most likely, the variation of speeds of which your backroad commute is, the threshold area for the 3rd to 4th gear shifts in the standard economy mode. (I had do it manually with my old Camry V6 5-speed, on some roads, to optimum fuel economy). Try keeping the performance button pushed in (as it pushes the 3rd to 4th gear shift higher), or as the tech said, turn OD off.

    It's not a design flaw, as 4th gear is always (in 4 speed automatics) a tall gear (less than 1:1 ratio, defined as overdrive).
  • xonxon Posts: 9
    I bought my 2002 6cyl a few weeks ago, and I'm having a problem with the "cold shift shock" when reversing out of my driveway. The car surges ahead when I shift to Drive. This doesn't seem normal.
  • camryinthcamryinth Posts: 3
    Just got told by the dealer service shop that transmission on my 96 Camry has gone bad and will need to be replaced eventually. (cost $3300). He said that he can replace the shift solenoid' (cost $250) to prolong the life of the transmission but don't know for how long.

    Any and all advise on this topic is welcome.
  • dasmdasm Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I bought a new Toyota Camry 2002, After driving for about 1000 miles the brakes have started making noise. I have gone back and forth with the Dealer and opened a Case with Toyota.

    I hav been told by the Dealer that all the 2002 Camry have noise in the brakes? Is this true? I have a hard time believeing this.
    I also have ABS on this.

    Does Anyone have same issue with 2002 Camry LE?

    Thanks
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    I highly recommend taking it to reputable transmission shop for a second opinion.

    It may very well not be needing a new transmission, but sometime else that costs much less.
  • rev4rev4 Posts: 38
    I've had a xle camry (2002) for about 5 weeks and a dash from the center dash has just started. It only happens on the highway over rough, pebbled pavement. My experience with cars is this could "fix itself", but has anyone had this problem and have any suggestions as to the source of the rattle???? Otherwise, no complaints about this car....I really like it.
  • rev4rev4 Posts: 38
    The previous post should read "rattle" not "dash"!! Sorry about that...
  • lasher5lasher5 Posts: 22
    I too have a 02 Camry and I get a rattle or squeak from the center dash stack. My center armrest squeaks as well. My carpeting is developing fuzz balls. So are the fabric inserts on the inside door panels. The 4 cyl. engine is great. I'm loath to have the dealer try to fix the squeak. My last car to have a squeak in the dash came back from the dealer much worse.
  • morinkmorink Posts: 12
    Hello,

    While driving anywhere between 40 and 55 in overdrive the car intermittently lags/cuts back for a couple of seconds and then picks back up again. When this is happening the RPM's drop by 500 to 700 RPM and then pops back up when the car seems to go back to normal driving. In taking a quess it would almost seem like the car is not getting spark, fuel or something along those lines for that period when this is happening (no check engine lights of course). I originally thought that the problem was shifting in and out of overdrive but this is not the case. When the car normally comes out of overdrive the RPM's would go higher. This has been happening since I purchased the car about a week ago. has anyone else experienced this problem ?

    I traded in my vehicle because it was starting to spend more time in the garage and costing me more money than what it was worth. I thought that I would go with a brand new vehicle to get away from this. GO FIGURE I would get the Camry that is probably going to trouble ridden.
  • morinkmorink Posts: 12
    My 2002 Camry LE V6 is having the same "Cold Shock Shift" problem as messages #10 and #11. When first starting a cold engine I would expect the idle to be fast (1700 to 2000 RPM) depending on the outside temperature. If I do not let my car warm up long enough (let RPM come down between 600, 700) the car will thud/clunk into drive. If I let my car warm up to bring the RPM down between 600, 700 the car shifts into drive with just a slight thud (much better). On the cars that are experiencing the thud/cluck into drive at the higher RPM I would think that the drive train is not as tight as the other Camrys our year that are not having this problem. I should be able (at cold RPM) be able to hold the brake and shift into drive with no thud/clucking sound. This to me indicates a little play somewhere. That is my take. Those of you having the problem try letting your car warm up ( 600 to 700 RPM) a little more in the morning before shifting into gear.
  • stans40stans40 Posts: 16
    I have noticed when going up a hill when the AT shifts from 2nd to 1st it is very abrupt. More so than in other cars I have owned. In other shifts the AT is very smooth. Anyone else noticed this?
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    TSB #: EG013-01
    Date: SEP 01
    Topic: A/T - Shift Quality Improvements

    If someone has the actual TSB to this, it would greatly help.

    There should be actually 2 TSB's regards to shift quality improvement (www.nhtsa.dot.gov)
  • pkl88pkl88 Posts: 8
    Hi Guys,

    My apology if this question had been asked and answered in prior posts, I looked back a bit but didn't see any discussions. Feel free to point me to the past posting.

    Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone from the DFW area (actually I'm in Plano/Richardson area) will share their dealership service experiences and suggestions. I've got a 99 Camry that need its 30K checkup and tuneup, ummm, actually 40K now. Being unfamiliar with the dealerships around, I need some guidance so won't get chewed up by sharks!

    Any suggestion is welcome! TIA!

    - Paul

    PS: If you feel more comfortable conversing in private, please email me at [email protected] Thanks again!!!
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    There is no tune up required at 30 k. Actually not much needs to be done, tranny fluid maybe, coolant, maybe. Air filter, maybe, all depend on whether done before. That's about it. Rest in the manual is fluff for the dealer.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    I am awaiting delivery of my Camry and this Cold Shift thing has me perturbed. For 6 years I had a similar occurence on my Mercury Mystique. Several times a week when I shifted into drive you'd hear this BIG clunk. It never happened at home but only at work. I finally figured out that it must have something to to do with shifting into drive first instead of reverse. In the mornings I always backed out of the driveway and never had the THUNK problem. At lunch though, or after work I'd shift into drive and would sometimes get the THUNK. Has anyone noticed this similarity with the Camry?

    More importantly, WHAT CAN BE DONE?
  • aka_kilikaaka_kilika Posts: 2
    I have a 02 Camry SE with ABS and also noticing brake squeal at 1300 miles. The dealer told me it was a common problem and to clean the wheels with the pressure wash at the car wash to remove the brake dust generated during the break-in period.
  • john345john345 Posts: 6
    I also had a center dash rattle in my 2002 Camry. It sounded like the source was between the clock and the radio, like a loose wire vibrating. The dealership removed the trim panel in this area, made sure nothing was loose, and reinstalled the trim. I haven't heard the rattle since.
This discussion has been closed.