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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
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Car returned with the same problem. The car is pulling sightly to the left and I intend on getting the needed alignment. This should not have any bearing on this shimmy thing, should it? Anyone out there having the same?
Pulling to the left -- how bad is it? That's not so easy to diagnose over the internet.
If the "klank" noise occurs during low-speed braking, it's nothing to worry about. My '97 does it fairly often, but to me it's more of a grinding or "graunching" sound. I understand there's a technical service bulletin on the problem, but there's really nothing wrong with the brakes. I know because I've checked mine.
I believe on the very first oil change, I commented to the Dealer, that the car pulls to the left such that I have to compensate by constantly pullin the wheel about 10-15 derees to the right. The Dealer test drove the car and saw the problem. He said the only way he could fix the problem is to do an alignment which was not covered since any bump on the road could cause the alignment to go out of (I guess) alignment.
Well, I desided to live with the problem, rotate my tires regulary and just last week, I reached 55,000 miles. The pullin got gradually worse during this time such that the compensation angle reached about 20-25 degrees...it was very noticable and cumbersome to live with. My front tires were seriously worn on the inner sides. The back tires were not as bad. I had rotated every 5K except for the last 10K.
Last week I had my tires replaced at a local shop and they did the alignment. After I took it home, I noticed that the car pulled to the left about 10 degrees..I took it back to local shop(not the dealer) and they "re-did" the aligment..Now the compensating angle is only about 6 degrees. It's livable..but I bet it will gradually get worse.
I am considering taking the car now to the dealer to finally get this issue solved. I shouldn't have to live with this, should I? Is this normal
for cars.. (my last car was an old clunker that had a similar problem..but it wasn't worth comlaining about.)
YOU"RE NOT THE ONLY ONE if you've experienced this..Actually I've found that this is a common complaint on this car...(Camry) I wish Toyota would DO something about it.
Other than that and the bad front leather seats which they've agreed to replace for free..the car runs very well.
Good Luck,
Joseph
I read a post by "SiennaOwners@home.com" that said the problem is common. This poster has a large T.S.B. on the problem in the Sienna, but I don't know if the Camry applies. I do know that owners of the Camry and Avalon have posted about the matter. Check the archived Sienna posts.
Please post your details, if possible.
Any way, you need to diconnect the small wire connection, by pushing the tabs in, and pull back GENTLY on the wire that comes out of the beauty cover, then use small flat blade screw driver, and GENTLY pry out the spark plug wires for back row plugs, then use an 8mm socket and unscrew the coil on top.
Attach the spark plug socket to the 4.5" long extension, and wrap the joint with duct tape, so the joint does not come apart, after each plug installation. As with any plug installation, hand start each plug using only the extention and the universal joint. Use the rachet for the last 1-2 turns to avoid cross threading.
Rotate the coil back and forth and pull it out. Do one coil at a time, so you don't confuse the wires, coils, and back row plug wires.
When doing the back row plugs, you need a rotating universal 3/8" joint, a 4.5" extention and a 6.0" extention bars. The back plug closer to passenger side needs the 4.5 extention, and the universal joint.
The center back plug needs 4.5 attached to socket, the universal joint, and then the 6.0 extention.
The back plug closer to driver side, should be reached leaning against the driver side fender. The set up of extentions are the same as for the center back plug.
My next maintenance item is the fuel filter.
Question being, what should I expect to pay for a repair. I'm moderately handy(replaced the lifters in a '74 Javelin) but I doubt this would be an easy/fast repair. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Toyota dealer did not offer any help when I asked them to examed the car in many occasions , all they did was re aligned the car and re balance the tires and I still had the same problem.
About 4 month ago, the 1994 Camry developed another thumping noise on top of all the problems I had. A small wheel alignment specaility shop first suggest that I may have wheel bearing problem. When I went in for the replacement of the wheel bearing, they say it is not the wheel bearing. They then reexamine the car and found one of the strut had a leak, so they changed the struts and did the alignment and balanced the old tires. All the problems I had is now gone. Now the steering vibration is gone except when I drive over 90 mph, then there is a slight vibration which the mechanics say is because the tires have a wrong wear pattern due to the old bad alignment.
This alignment shop does not have the fancy alignment equipments and computer print outs but they solved my problem. So maybe you need to find a good alignment shop. The mechanic told me the steering vibration is caused by bad tire balance.
Any reasons why? I heard something about Toyota scaling back costs etc.
My '97 LE 4-cylinder has been quite reliable, and now has 66K miles. I did have leaking valve stem seals, but these were replaced under the powertrain warranty. I have not had ANY problems with wheels, tires, alignment, or vibration.
But I'm lucky in that I have access to a tire balancing machine at work, so I do all tire rotation and balancing myself.
It's only been aligned once, and that was after it was hit in the side by another car in a parking lot. The right strut was bent and had to replaced, requiring the alignment.
However, I am having a more urgent problem on my 98 Camry at this time. I have the factory tape/CD stereo system and last month it stopped working. Unfortunately I couldn't figure out how to get it out and check it myself, so I took it to the dealer. I am picking it up tomorow. If the stereo is broken, I am considering not getting the Toyota model, however, the shape of the factory model seems to be larger than car stereos sold in electronics shops. Can I fit a regular Sony car radio/CD in the Toayota Camry? This would be much better (cheaper) and I could service it myself with any future problems.
Thanks for any input.
The more money I spent on it, the more other problem started (vibrating break, burning tire smells, klanking noises etc). I think they screwed up my car so much that even when I bring in the tire manufacture to deal with the tire shop, nothing can be figured out. The manufacture just told me not use that tire shop any more because that tire shop does not know how to mount tires, do alignments and balancing tires correctly. I even brought all new tires and all new wheels and had them balanced from TIRERACK. All I need is to bolt them on. Even that did not help because the car is screwed up so much.
Actually, when mounting the tires, the wheel and the tire has to be mount correctly, I remembered that the manufacture re told me that the new wheels have marks and all new tires have marks that they have to line up when mounting. Most of the tire shops don't even know that.
Maybe you can call the tire manufacture rep and have them speak to the tire shop before they screw up your car like they did to my.
Year of Recall: 1999
Manufacture: 1999
Manufactured: FROM 1994JUL TO 1998JUL
Component: STEERING:WHEEL AND COLUMN
Summary:
Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. The steering wheel set nut may not have been sufficiently tightened causing steering vibration and looseness. This can result in a loss of vehicle control.
Dealers will tighten the steering wheel set nut. Owner notification began Nov. 30 1999.
But your cousin's symptoms sound like mine did -- blue smoke on startup. I needed new valve stem seals; this would have cost $800-$1,000, but fortunately it was covered by the 60K powertrain warranty (my '97 Camry 4-cylinder had 57K miles at the time).
Have you been told the head gasket's the problem, however?
I think a price of $1,100 is too high; even if it's to also replace the head gasket. Just replacing the seals should be considerably cheaper, since the head does not have to be removed to do this.
Our '96 V6 is approaching 60,000 miles. Still original battery. We burn regular 87 octane...no probs.
At one time I was concerned with drifting to the right while going down the road. Had several alignments performed. Finally decided radial pull was culprit in the first two sets. Ever since we got our P4000 Pirelli's, I've been satisfied with the tracking. These tires are the best we've ever had on the car.
I guess my only problem with this car is the ventilation leaves something to be desired. Windows fog up quicker than in our other two vehicles.
Also, the muffler loses it's black paint in places. I've touched it up once. Will paint it with hi-temp grill paint in another month. Pretty picky...eh?
And, the old lady didn't wait for the garage door to go all the way up before backing out... Thumped the antenna pretty hard. Came within a hairof bending it real good. I keep the antenna oiled real well to decrease friction...
Concerning that recall on select Carmy's, I received it too. My Camry was suffering from very excessive steering wheel vibration two years ago. I had an alignment done first, which cured it almost entirely. later I took it in for the recall and after that there was no problem at all anymore.
I hope this is the last time I have to deal with vibrations, or I'll consider replacing it with a VW. (I wish I could get one of those awesome Peugeot's or Alpha Romeo's they have over in Europe!)
Talking about black paint flaking off the muffler, When I bought the car, I took it to cacar washith under body wash, then I took the chrome exhaust tips off, spray painted the muffler with high tehemplack paint used for grills. I washed the chrome tips, waxed them with chrome cleaner, and put daub of anti seizure paste on chrome tip screws ( the one used for spark plug threads) and put them back on.
As far as 87, 89, 92 octane gas goes. the car really runs OK with 87. The owner manual says 87 is OK and then it says 89 or higher is recommended. For the 10 cent price dfiffrence, I will use 89 to keep the smooth and strong V-6 happy. The other night I let speedometer climb to 110mph. The V-6 is nice.
The other nice thing is the drain plug for automatic transmission pan. By the way, the allen alienh hex size for that is 10mm, in case you are wondering.
Again unless your car manufacturer specifically cacallsor more expensive stuff, you are throwing your money away.
The owner's manual say it is ok to use the 87 octane ('96 model). Once in a great while, I'll pump some 93 octane into it. Usually when gas prices dip down low. I guess I do it...the way a dog's master sometimes rewards the animal with a can of tuna fish for being "faithful"..LOL>
Our state has pretty low prices. $1.26 for 87 regular right now. In most instances premium 93 costs twenty cent more. It is hard to justify paying the additional expense per gallon for a 1 to 2 mpg improvement.
I also think that these cars are pretty sensitive to the tires that are put on them. This feeling comes after having three different brands on ours. The Pirelli's have really made driving the car pleasurable. And they cost more too... couldn't get a big discount on those the way that I could have others.
""I bet people that use higher octane gas just because, also love to use synthetic
oil and $10 oil filters! Again unless your car manufacturer specifically cacallsor more expensive stuff, you are throwing your money away. """"
Well, with extended drains and no major part replacements in 130,000 miles, original injectors original everything except water pump (replaced at 120,000 for convenience) I think it pays off. You may not. Why are you driving a Camry when there are other makes/models out there with equal reliability that cost less!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! By the way, my manual does not state 87 okay and 92 recommended, mine states only 92 recommended.
On page number 210 of my 1996 Owner's Manual, Part 8 Specifications, Engine: Fuel 1MZ-FE engine - Unleaded gasoline Research Octane Number 91 (Octane Rating 87) or higher.... For improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with a Research Octane Number of 96 (Octane Rating 91) or higher is recommended.
That is all.
Why am I driving Camry? Well, I found this 96 XLE with 43K, and V-6 engine. I bought it. At $11,200, I could not overlook it. If it was a four banger, I would passed it up, but not the V-6. I do however think this car at $27K is way overpriced. They want way too much. I will buy a 325I before the 01 Camry, or a Passat VR-6.
One complaint about this Camry V-6 is its floaty suspension. It acts like a Buick Regal!!
I expected firmer suspension. Its handling and its almost perefect V-6 does not goe well with its soft suspension. The car scares me when it riding over icy roads, or roads with ice patches, it slides side to side over ice patches.
My old 95 Dodge Stratus handled exceptionally well on ice/ice patches
Tires are the most important in these situations because they touch the road.
We got caught out in Oklahoma back in December and, did alot of driving in it and snow/slush/refrozen substance.
Our LE did ok. Or at least the driver, ME, did just great. I pushed it on several occasions to test how it would react. I felt pretty secure driving it. Better traction than any friggin unloaded 2wd pickup truck!
The suspension is not on par with a BMW or a Contour SVT(for that matter), but the Camry does very well what it is designed to do IMO>
Can anyone else attest to this lack of quality, or did I just get a car built on a Friday?
Seems you are calling quality "The Lack of Absolutely any repairs at all". Rotors and brakes are routine maintenace and the CV boots, if cracked were your lack of inspection. The electrical seems to be the main issue and you do have a problem which I would go to an auto electrical specialist for.. My Camry 92 SE V6 has 130,000 replaced rotors and boots as well, drivers side window parts and some A/C work for $600 a year or so ago. Runs fantastic, solid and for this much in repairs, given the cost of ins and taxes etc on a newer one, where could I get a less expensive car to operate?? Spent big bucks on the 120,000 mile service, all belts, water pump, plugs but again, much much cheaper then a new car.
Is there a light bulb that lights it? - how hard to change? Is the bulb sold at a Toyota place or should I just go to a car radio shop?
Thanks to anyone who has done this one.
all things equal,if all camrys are made in US and
the lexus is made in Japan (I think they are),I
wonder if thats one reason the Lexus has less
problems.
I'm not saying they do have less problems,just
thought I would throw the thought out there.
This translates into less "problems" IMO.
Just one theory...are there any more?
The gas "struts" for the hood are a pretty good accessory that I miss on my Honda. (I also have a Toyota Cressida with the gas struts).
Do you happen to know the other details on how Toyota modified the Camry from 1996-1997? Particularly on the engine? I know they made it slightly more fuel efficient.
Thanks
The basic recommendation for 1996 V6 models was regular 87 octane...