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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • I have a 97 Camry and hit a big hole in the street (it was real dark and I could not stop fast enough) and now the abs light goes on for 3 seconds during the ignition? Has anyone had this problem and can anyone reccomend any troubleshooting books that can help me when I have future problems with my car?
  • After taking my 2000 Camry home, I was curious where my 8 speakers were located, as the sticker said I had. I asked the customer service and sales personnel at the dealer, and they told me the speakers were placed with 2 in each of front two doors, 1 in each of the back two doors, and two on the back shelf. Since I only counted 6 speakers (none in the back doors) I took the car to the maintenance department.
    There the maintenance guys, supervisor and manager were stumped. Today one of them called me at home to tell me that the back two speakers on the rear shelf were "coaxial," making them "2 speakers" each. They appear to be ordinary speakers in appearance on the outside and from underneath them (looking from the trunk).
    Can anyone tell me if this guy is blowing smoke and are there supposed to be speakers in the rear doors, or can they legitimately label those 6 speakers as "8 speakers" if 2 of them are "coaxial?" Thanks, Tom
  • Unless you can see through the grills or take them off, you will not be able to tell whether the speaker "units" are indeed coaxials. Coaxial speakers really are two speakers mounted in one frame, a woofer and a tweeter. So if they are coaxials you do have the correct number of speakers.

    Bruce
  • Hello! My 7 month old 2000 Camry LE V6 with manual tranny, which now has about 6,000 miles on it, pulls ever so slightly to the right when I'm driving at speeds greater than 50 mph. I've checked my tires and they all appear to be equally inflated at 32 psi (cold). I've done the "drive down the crown of the road" test since I know roadways can be graded, thereby causing cars to drift in one direction or the other, and the car still drifts to the right. A mechanically inclined friend told me I need a "Thrust Alignment" (sounds a little naughty!) and that I should go back to the dealer. I did go back to dealer once on this, but he insisted that my tires were unevenly inflated. He then "corrected" the unevenly inflated tires and sent my on my way, however, the problem still continues. Before I start making a pest of myself at the dealer, does anybody have an opinion on this one? Instead of "dealing with the dealer" which I have a feeling is going to be a humongeous bummer, should I simply go and have the car aligned by an alignment place and pay for it myself since time is money for me? Otherwise, the car runs great and is a joy to drive. Thanks! -Redlucy
  • I purchased a 99 camry in April of 99. it had 4400 miles on it-it was used as a demo but they sold it to me new. I have had it in the shop every month for vibration of the steering wheel-- Toyota has balanced the tires 8 times--aligned it 4 times -- and replaced the tires 3 times-- still hasnt fixed the problem. I am going thru arbitration because Toyota is fighting me on repurchasing this lemon. I have met the GA lemon law, so now we will see what happens. Tehy are going to fight til the end --i will never purchase another Toyota EVER!! Can anyone give me advice so I can prepare for the arbitration board. I have found 42 pages of complaints through the NHTSA. I was hoping for some more. HELP!!
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    Sorry to hear of your problems. Have you looked at the many "Lemon Law" topics throughout Town Hall? If not, you can use the topic search feature on the left side of the page to track them all down. I hope you will find them helpful.

    Good luck.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • At 7,000 miles the pads were replaced and now at 22,000 miles we have to have $500 of brake work, pads, rotors,etc. The service department says that there is nothing defective and this is not covered under warranty. If that is true this will be my last Toyota.
  • I to just went through a series of visits to my local dealer for a vibrating steering wheel. I have a 97 Camary LE-V6. It started immediately after the dealer did a front break job(replace pads and turned the rotors). They cut the rotors twice and the problem continued. In the end they replaced the front rotors and that fixed the problem. I did not pay for the new rotors even though this was not covered under warrantee.
  • $500 is a bit steep for front brake replacement.
  • zhuzhu Posts: 6
    I am having a couple of problems on my '97 Camry I-4 LE with 22k miles. I just found that my right front tire wears substantially more than the other three. This tire wears more in the center part and at the both edges than the other three tires, but it wears much more at the both edges than the center part. The other three wears about the same, but I can tell that the right rear wears least, followed by left rear and left front. I rotate the tires every 5-6k miles, so I have had 3 rotation already and am about to do the 4th. But, I still doubt that the dealer did the rotation at 10k miles for me although I did pay for it. I also check the pressure regularly with the front ones inflated to 36psi and the rear ones to 34psi. I am pretty sure that this uneven wear happens in the last 5-6k miles since I check my tires regularly. In the last couple of weeks, I also found a low pitched noise in front when the car is in idle at low speed in a quiet area, which likes a rubber scratches something and disappears when the car is not in moving.

    I would appreciate the opinions from the experts here. Is this a sign of misbanlance or/and misalgnment or problems of suspension parts ? I have not done any balance or alignment so far.

    Also, I did all the service at Toyota dealer which I bought the car from. If I need a alignment job, what are the best shop? I heard from Sienna problem forum that Toyota may not be the best for this kind of job and they tends to charge more.

    These are Good Year Integrity tires and have run 22k miles. If the 4 tires wear evenly, I would expect another 20k miles since I am no a aggressive driver. If the uneven wear is not solved, should I change the tires earlier? What is the best all season passenger car tire with good wet traction, decent handling and relative long life?

    Thank you in advance for the advice.

    Sha
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    You may find some helpful information by checking through the previous posts in our very active Tires topic (#16).

    Good luck.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • zhuzhu Posts: 6
    Thanks, Pat.

    Sha
  • george5george5 Posts: 23
    Hi all.

    I recently purchased a new 2000 Camry LE V6 a
    couple of weeks ago. I now have about 200 miles on it. So far I've noticed that while driving, the steering wheel seems to be slightly off centered. 99% of the time the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right while driving on a straight level road. The car also feels that it drifts to the left the few times I've taken it onto the freeway going up to 55mph. Do I have an alignment problem? Is everyone else's steering wheel horizontal when they are going straight. This is somewhat annoying. Is it maybe the awful General tires that are on the car?

    Secondly, does your rearview mirror vibrate when
    you have the radio on or a CD playing? Whenever I look in the rearview mirror and the radio is
    playing, everything in the mirror is a blur due to
    the vibration. But I must say, the radio sounds
    awsome. If this is a sacrifice I have to make for a good sounding radio, then I am happy.

    Other than the alignment issue, this is a nice
    car!

    George
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Yes, alignment problem. They also should straighten the wheel so that it is perfectly straight when sitting in the car and wheels straight also. Some alignment shops have no concept of how to do that!
  • Does your car have a sub-woofer or upgraded stereo that provides alot of bass. If so, the vibration may not be coming from the mirror, but rather may be the rear window vibrating from the heavy bass, and when you look in the rear view mirror what you see may be the rear window vibrating.
  • cblakecblake Posts: 5
    After having a drifting problem, some brake problems, and continued vibrations in my '99 Sienna, I have extended my internet research beyond the Sienna (Vans) site. I am wondering how common the problems are in the Camry, the Avalon, and the Sienna.

    1) Have you experienced a continued misalignment problem?

    2) Have your tires been rotated or replaced with a continuation of the problem?

    3) Do you continue to have uneven tire wear and a drift either to the right or left?

    4) Do you have vibrations in your auto, esp. above 50 MPH?

    5) Have you replaced rear brake drums or other brake components prematurely?

    6) Have you had any oil contamination and/or sludge in the engine?

    Please share your experiences here and on the Sienna site as well. I'd like to look for trends in these autos.

    [email protected]
  • We have a 96 Camry purchased two years ago and still under waranty. Found out about two months later that the rear window defroster had been damaged when dealer removed tint. Dealer refused to replace rear window, and it was'nt covered under waranty because it didn't come from the factory that way. We couldn't believe that Deland Toyota could be so irresponsible.
    Now, we find that the front window motors are shot and will cost about a thousand to replace. We really checked out this particular year's model and were assured that it was very dependable.
    Question - we're retired and in our 70s, really need a car that we can depend on. Are we likely to get more costly problems? And is the window motor thing unusual?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Unusual based on my experience with my 92. same body design, in fact first year of this model Camry. I had to replace a window part, not the motor though. All else in 124,000 miles has been routine maintenance, well, A/C problems last year for about $600. I have used syntheitc oil since 1,000 miles and synthetic ATF since 25,000 miles. Change the oil at 7,500 and ATF at 30,000 intervals.
  • Two days after I bought my camry, we noticed a good sized "dent" one of the doors. This was from far away. Up close it looks normal like there is no dent the surface is perfectly smooth. From side angles it looks like a very small, unnoticable dent. Then possibly a week later while washing my car, we noticed 2 other spots on the car, and this is when I really got frustrated. One spot was just a small "dent". The other spot was about three inches or so on the hood! I took it to the dealer and they referred me to the people that do the body work for them, who have yet to contact me back after 2 weeks to set an appointment up to take a look at my car. The funny thing is that the dealership did not argue with me back about the problem. And if the problem was caused by me and not them they would not have offered to fix it. So obviously they knew it was there before they sold me the car. They did however argue with me about the "dents". I told them the paint must be defective or something is wrong with the paint job because you cannot feel the dents and can only see them from certain angles, but they said, "No, I don't think that it is the paint, those are dents!" So I am driving around a brand new black Camry with "dents" all over it and haven't even got the problem fixed yet. I am one angry Toyota customer.
  • If any of you have hi mileage Toyotas, please look at my Toyota fuel filter question if you have time - # 1838 in this topic.

    Thanks.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    You might want to look through the Town Hall Lemon Law topics. There are some helpful links in the Smart Shopper topic, and some active discussion in several of the ones in Finance, Warranty and Insurance.

    Good luck, that does indeed sound like a nightmare.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    If the dealer painted the car to look like a limited edition and noever informed you prior to purchase and you thought that you were buying a limite dedition that is fraud. Go to the POLICE and get a warrant issued!!!!!!!!!That will wake them up
  • If your state has an arbitration program, try it.
    When you go through arbitration, do your homework and present your case well. Document everything: work orders, invoices, information from NHTSA sites on complaints, TSB, etc.

    I got rid of my lemon 1998 Camry using my state's arbitration and wish you luck for doing so (or for getting it repaired, however, knowing Toyota Motor Sales and Toyota dealers, I would not hold my breath, if I were you).
  • The Magazine "Motor Service" each year has an
    article on fuel filters. They say change them,
    cause "most GM filters" are "close to plugging
    up", and they also say the slow clogging of fuel
    filters puts a load on the fuel pump. They say the
    "never change" recommendations of some
    manufacturers are improper. My Camry manual has no recommended fuel filter
    change frequency. My Toyota dealer refused to change the filter at 60,000 miles ( I was ready to pay). One established Toyota website says never change them.
    Whats your experience? - do you have a Toyota, over 90k miles with the
    original fuel filter? Tell me about it.

    Also have you personally changed a Camry 4 cyl
    filter? How hard? - Motor Service last year said
    it was easy to screw it up and damage the pipe to the tank costing big bucks. A local repair shop told me the same thing - they say the end of the fuel line and the fitting on the filter itself are
    strange and easily damaged (this may be why the dealer won't change it - but you would think Toyota would have fixed that long ago. Motor service did say to use only OEM filters.
  • nate19nate19 Posts: 4
    My '95 Camry's rear brakes don't seem to want to self adjust. I have tried the method of driving in reverse and braking hard, but no change. I climbed under to manually self adjust them, but there is no access opening. Any one else fixed this problem?
  • george5george5 Posts: 23
    I have a new 2000 Camry LE V6, and my CD skips once in a while when I go over a bump or some rough road. It is happening about 2 -3 times per week. Is this normal?

    I know it's not the CD because it is happening with a variety of different CDs that I put in the radio!

    Don't the CD players in cars have a memory to prevent this?

    Thanks in advance.
    George
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I have a 92 Camry with 125,000 miles. I believe in changing filters so I have had the fuel replaced around 30,000 or so, when car is in for a State inspection or something. Cost about $30-45 with the labor. Sorry, no info on how to do it. Probably change the PCV valve also, a $4 part.
  • What can go seriously wrong if I drained the differential fluid from my '97 Camry (45K) then drove it empty in mixed driving for about 65 miles. I feel stupid about this but initially, I did a drain and fill of the auto transmission (for the first time by myself) and opened both drain bolts not knowing that one was for the differential. As a matter of fact, after I had opened and drained both, I was not sure why there were two bolts, so I called a local Toyota Service Center and a serviceperson told me all that I needed to do was just put both drain bolts back on and fill the transmission up and I would be O.K. I did as he said but 65 miles later, I attempted another fluid change (the original fluid was very dirty)and of course found that the differential was empty. I finally got the correct information from another Toyota Service Center and filled the differential from its own fill hole on top of it.
    The only thing that I notice now is sometimes the car sort of stalls a little from initial takeoff in drive, although this doesn't happen all the time.
  • rubicon52rubicon52 Posts: 191
    I think Pat455 gave you good advice about the lemon law sites. One of the sites has links to lemon laws in all states. I've never been to arbitration but at not surprised at your experience. Arbitration is something that car manufacturers almost "propose" in their owners manual so how favorable can it be to consumers? In these kinds of disputes, it sometimes seems like David and Goliath (you're David). However, I was in a 2-year dispute with a building contractor and I discovered that the little guy has some advantages - one of them being that you can write letters, document your complaint, etc for free, while the opposing company has to pay someone. My case became very involved and the documentation was extensive. Two law firms hired by the building contract declined to proceed after I sent them copies of my "documentation package". Not sure why. Either my case was strong or it was simply too expensive for them to pay someone to go through the documentation and understand what was going on. Good luck.
  • My '91 Camry 4 cyl. 5 spd. with 160K miles has been a great car since purchased new and has required little repair other than usual service. In the last few months three warning lights (brake, charge, and lights) began coming on at the same time but with no change in performance or actual problems with those three systems. When outdoor temperatures were high the lights came and went more frequently.

    Thirty days ago, 150 miles from home, the engine simply quit running and required a new igniter and coil. That fix lasted for about a week when the same problem occurred only thirty miles from home requiring a new igniter, coil, distributor cap, plugs, and plug wires. Two days ago it happened again at cruising speed on the Interstate about 130 miles from home. This is getting expensive and no clear path to a permanent fix seems clear.

    Has anyone had similar experiences with this problem? If so, was there a workable solution? The car as a whole is in good shape, no oil consumption and no other electrical/electronic malfunctions.
  • Hasit ever been wrecked such that engine ground wires might have been removed?
  • juzefjuzef Posts: 37
    This week, I noticed a mechanical dusty oder
    when the heat was on. I also noticed that the
    climate control doesn't seem to operate properly.
    When I try to use the climate control to increase
    the temperature, the module only alows me to direct the warm air flow toward the floor. An attempt to redirect the air flow up or up and down simultaneously results in the AUTO climate control to dissengage itself. Also when trying to redirect the flow upwards, there is a noise comming from the left hand side (near the fuse box??). It sounds like a singing inductor or relay or something like that. It definately sounds like an electrical problem.

    I will schedule a time with the dealer today. The car now has 43k on it but it's less than a year old. Do you think that this problem will be covered by my warantee? I hope so because it sounds expensive.

    By the way, after almost FOUR months, someone came to inspect my leather seat on the driver side and concluded that it should be replaced for free. The seats are cracking along the creases in the leather and they will definately rip through the leather soon. They said about a week and a half ago that they'd call me when they've got the part and that it should take about 5 to 7 days..it's been MORE than that so far and no word...I'm gonna call them today and find out what's the deal.

    Joseph
  • I have a 92 camry with 100k miles. The antenna does not come down. The motor/gears make a grinding noise every time I shut the car off.

    I want to disable it or fix it.

    Thanks.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Sounds like the cable broke to me. If you can hear the motor but nothing happens it is the cable. You can fix yourself or get the dealer or audio shop to fix. dealer about $100 with labor. Mine went about two years ago on my 92
  • Hello I recently bought a 98 camry le with aprox. 57k miles. I found it through edmunds marketplace and got a GREAT deal (under 10k) on it from a Lincoln/Mercury dealership.
    The only real problem it has is that it has a lot of trouble starting up after it warms up. If I hold the key until it starts it often takes say 3 seconds (estimating), or if I try once to start it then try again immediately it starts right up usualy. Could this be a fuel pump???
    Also after it warms up it idles roughly. When it is cold and the air conditioner kicks in it automaticaly idles up and stays smooth. But once it warms up a bit and the a/c kicks in it dosen't idle up and runs very roughly.
    And last but not least when taking off from a stop the peddle seems heavy and I realy have to push down and the engine must rev high (4000 aprox) to get it moving.


    Should I get the engine tuned up and posibly a new fuel pump?

    Thanks,
    Tracy
  • Thanks for your help.
  • either this forum or the one on Camrys in sedans had a way to remove the antenna I think you take off the fender mounted nut and then turn the radio on and pull the antenna out as it tries to rise. Get new antenna, then feed in the end and turn radio off to get it to pull the antenna end in/
  • I have a 98 Camry with 65K.

    1) Recently I noticed that the hand break light in the dash would not go off even with the break off. Now it stays on always. I really don't want to pay some ridiculous ammount at the dealer for getting this fixed. Does anyone know if I could easily do this myself? What could it be?

    2) Also, I noticed in the front right side of the car, particularly when driving on smooth roads, a regular rythmic rubbing type sound causing a slight vibration in the car and the steering wheel. Could my tire be faulty? I had them replaced 15K ago and the allignment has been right on since then.

    Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  • The brake light is probably no biggie. Either: the brake light switch is slightly out of adjustment and the lever is barely missing it, or maybe the wire came off the switch and is inadvertently grounding itself. On the noise, it is PROBABLY the tire. The easiest way is to swap the tires (either side to side or front to back) and see if the noise goes with it. Could have a broken steel belt or something. If it were a wheel bearing, it usually would make a whoosing-whirring type noise and would change pitch in a turn (depending on the load placed in it) Check in there with a flashlight and try to depress the brake switch and see what happens.
    Hope this helps. Post what you find out.
  • It doesn't sound like a fuel pump problem. It could be something like a fuel filter though. You should pull the plugs and check their gap and condition. Check the plug wires, should be no more than about 3k ohms per foot. Plugs are cheap. Go with ngk or denso. Always eliminate the simple, inexpensive items first. Fuel pumps are very expensive. A plugged fuel filter (sometimes a 5.00 item o5 less on some cars) can cause a car to run rough and cause it to stall. It could also be a minor vacuum leak. That would cause rough idling but less noticeable at a higher rpm. Hope this can help to figure out the problem Tracy.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Premium gas has always been the recommended octane in the V6 engine since 92 when the new model came out. You can use a lower octane but I believe that you will see the difference in mpg and performance.
  • fxashunfxashun Posts: 747
    You may have a leaky injector or two. Try some injector cleaner.
  • Which CD player do you have?
  • Ihave the Toyota Radio/CD/Cassette combo with the jbl speakers.
  • Hi

    Can someone tell me what tire pressure I should have for my 2000 Toyota Camry? I looked at the label near the doorframe of the driver's door, and it states 29psi, and for the maximum vehicle capacity -which I assume means the weight of the cargo, it is 32psi for the maximum capacity of 900lbs? Does this mean that I should have the tires at 29psi, and only if I have 5 passengers - a full load (near 900lbs) - that I should add air and make them 32 psi? Or does it mean that the tire pressure can vary, that it can be between 29 and 32 psi no matter how heavy the cargo I am carrying, so that the maximum capacity stated is not related to the cargo weight, but instead it is related the the maximum capacity of the tire. This is very confusing. Please help.

    Thanks in advance.
    George
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    I have a '97 Camry; the label on mine recommends 30 psi for all conditions, except high-speed driving (above 75 mph), in which case the pressure should be increased to 35.

    Usually when a car maker specifies light load and full-load pressures, the light load is only for 1-3 occupants and no luggage. Anything beyond that and you should go with the full load pressure.

    Personally, in your case, I'd just go with 32 all the time; the lower pressure just provides a slightly softer ride.
  • I have had discussed this with other people before. Do you go by the pressure in the door/glovebox or what is in the tire? My opinion, go by the tire. You do want to use your judgement and get a "feel" for the tire. I'd stay under max, only because of the air expansion. But, too low and it puts excess strain on the sidewalls, plus heats the air too much and can cause a blowout. In other words, one of my cars said run at 28 psi for optimum performance. Now, the tires had a max of 35. When I changed the tires, the new ones were max of 44psi. 28-44? Big difference. I am not running my tires 16 psi beloe max. You have to use your judgement, although tires are overengineered for those load situations anyways. Ever seen those tiny-[non-permissible content removed] trucks pulling those big-[non-permissible content removed] trailers? I bet they weren't 6 ply tires on the rear of the truck.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,722
    If the car's label specifies 28 psi for the tires, you should put 28 psi (or only a little more) in the tires. 35 psi probably wouldn't cause significant problems, except possibly some extra wear in the center rib, but 40 or so almost certainly will cause excessive center rib wear, plus less-than-optimal ride and handling, even if the tire is labeled for 44 psi max pressure.
  • I have a 1998 LE V6 auto (Japanese built) with approximately 40k miles, most of which are high-speed, So. California freeway miles. The vehicle has had 4 episodes (months apart) where in attempting a start, the engine will crank and crank without ever firing. Episodes normally occur after vehicle has been parked approx 8 hours; 1 episode occurred after a cool down of 2 hours. Normally, engine will crank and fire instantly without any throttle opening, regardless of ambient temperature, time since last running, etc, etc. During these no-start episodes, engine will start and run smoothly at high idle (~1,500 RPM) ONLY if throttle is held open ~20%-30%, but engine will stall instantly if throttle is released (no idle). Engine will eventually idle & run normally if manually held at high idle for several minutes. Post-incident trips to dealer result in no stored trouble codes and of course unable to duplicate failure. During most recent episode, engine needed to be held at high idle for over 5 minutes (until temperature gauge indicated normal operating temp) before engine would idle normally. Car always starts instantly and idles perfectly, except during these episodes.

    Also, vehicle has recently developed prominant clicking/knocking/rattling noise from front suspension (sounds like both sides)only noticed when slowly going over speed bumps or other large irregularaties. First sounded like "loose" wheel trim rings (hubcaps), but noise is still present when trim rings are removed.

    Anyone have similar experiences, and if so, what was the resolution?

    Absolutely love the comfort, ride and power of this car, but these reliability issues are troubling. Expected to get 200k trouble-free miles with meticulous maintenance, but now I'm concerned.
  • Of all of the cars I've owned, I go with what's reasonable. In other words, my tires on my cars now are 2 cars with 44 and 1 with 36. I run 38 and 35, respectively. If I ran 28 in 44 psi tires (which I have tried before) the ride is sloppy, the handling is noticeably different, increased rolling resistance, and I am putting excess wear on the outer of the tires (where fwd cars put plenty of wear on those areas enough already). Ever used a dolly with LoW tires, not flat tires, just LOW tires? Big difference in the ability to dolly items. Like I said, my opinion. But I know what I like and put in what's reasonable for my tires. My tire wear is great, but I also rotate regularly. My 40k tires have 50k on them now with plenty of tread left.
This discussion has been closed.