Chrysler 300M Electrical/Lighting

stan1012stan1012 Member Posts: 2
The lights up over the windshield have started blinking whenever they feel like it. They will blink a few times and then stop. There may be other lights blinking, too, but it only has happened when the car is moving so far and i can't tell.

I would expect that these lights are controlled in a number of ways. Unlocking the door, nights when getting out of the car, turned on by pressing the light, others.

Any idea what causes this or how to fix it? Are the lights controlled by the car computer or in some other way?

I have a 2000 300M mileage in the 70,000.



  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Scroll the dimmer wheel for the interior lights completely up and completely down a few times, and turn the light switch from Auto to all the way on and back a few times. That should remedy it. If not, remove the whole switch and unplug and plug it 3 times (actual documented fix for this :surprise: .)
  • coldknight300coldknight300 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M. It has 158,000 miles. I got in it and turned the key and that's when the problem started. I will list the problems in order to keep the message as short as possible. I could not arm the alarm, doors will not lock by using the power switches on the doors,the rear windows will not go up or down and I can only let the front passenger window up, not down with the driver switch, the a/c and compass comes on at 75 degrees and there is no electricity going to the a/c compressor.Electricity was applied to the a/c compressor and it worked fine. The interior lights will not come on, the power mirrors have no power, the radio has no power, and the turn signals will not come on. The funniest of the problem is when I turn the key to start the car the horn blows! Is this a sign that the body controller module has gone bad? I have enjoyed this car and I do not plan on getting rid of it. Any help or advice will be greatly appriciated!!

    Thanks A Lot
  • stan1012stan1012 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. Scrolling the dimmer switch did the job. Haven't had a problem since i did that.
  • aj86aj86 Member Posts: 6
    Hey, coldnight300 I have the same problem you have with your 300m. My 300M has about the same milage as your's. The only difference is that my windows and turn signals work fine. I also need some help or advise. Have you checked the fuse box. I checked mine and it was blown out, but when I tried putting in a new one it got blown as soon as it made contact. See id your fuse is blown out, if it is try to put a new one and see if you have more luck than I did. That's the only advise that I can give you at this time. If you tried something diffent can you let me know because I also dont' want to get rid of my ride.

  • 300mybad300mybad Member Posts: 1
    My 99 300M , 127,000 just did this very thing tonight on the way home from work. I thought to scroll the dimmer switch, up and down as suggested, and it didnt do it again on the ride home....lets see about tomorrow.
    Issues I've had:
    Currently passenger rear window wont go down.
    Passenger heated seat works-sometimes-??
    oh yeah and the car doors attract door dings like crazy???
    Good info
  • quietflyerquietflyer Member Posts: 33
    Before I got my '99 300M I had a '93 Concorde. Shortly after I bought it, used, I started having electrical problems. All the interior lights would quit, the dash lights, AC, turn signals, radio, power windows and seats would stop working. They might work fine later that day then quit again. I found in the service manual I bought for it that all these items were grounded to the chassis by one bolt under the console. It was hanging by a few threads and sometimes a bump would make it loose. I tightened the bolt and never had another electrical problem. I can't tell if the same thing is happening on your car but a bad ground can louse up a lot of things!
  • coldknight300coldknight300 Member Posts: 4
    Hey aj86. Thanks for the advice.I checked all of the fuses and they were fine. The electrical repair mechanic I talked to (not the dealer, another auto repair company) told me right away that the body control module (BCM) needed to be replaced. He said I have to take it to the dealer to get it repaired. The part at the dealer costs $480.00. The service department is going to charge $150.00 to install it and this includes programming the body control module. I now have to order it. They told me it will take 3 to 5 days before it gets to them. I will keep you updated.

    Thanks again!

  • coldknight300coldknight300 Member Posts: 4
    Hey quietflyer. Thanks for your advice. The ground wires were ok. I had one wire hanging behind the back tire on the driver side. It was connected to the muffler. I still had the same problem though. The electrical repair mechanic said the body control module (BCM) needs to be replaced. I will keep you updated. Thanks again!

  • teds300teds300 Member Posts: 1
    Could someone please advise me where I can find the trunk light switch on my 2001 300M?

    Does this model use a mercury switch?
    Thanks! TED
  • firecatf7firecatf7 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1999 300m. The owner told me about how the driver's door problem and how it always said the driver's door was open. I think he got tired of having the interior lights on so he somehow disabled them (not by taking out a fuse). The car alarm (horn, headlights, and all) also goes off erratically and I think it has something to do with him fiddling around with stuff. What can I do. I'm pretty electrically savvy so feel free to explain things in detail. Thanks. Also feel free to send me an e-mail if you need to include pics or just want a faster way to get ahold of me. [email protected]
  • quietflyerquietflyer Member Posts: 33
    I looked in my service manual and the trunk light switch is part of the trunk lid latch where the key lock is located. The lamp comes on when the lid is unlocked, even if it is not lifted wide open.
  • neuroticdaveneuroticdave Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M that I recently purchased, used. The car has been running fine, and while it needs a little work in all aspects, its been great. Today I was driving around and went to pick up my friend. I parked outside with my other friend in the passenger seat, and we were in there a good 15 mins with the radio and heat on.

    When I went to start up the car and leave, I noticed that when I turned on my lights fully, and then turned on my fog lights, the hazard (or left/right turn indicator on the main console) was on. It wasnt a bright green like when the hazards are on or when I am turning, but a very dim green. I then went to look outside, and my fog lights would not come on. Whenever I turned them on, the yellow lights on the front sides of the car would brighten up. I then went to try out my turn signals, and they were blinking as if on a crack rush. They would blink at very high speeds, but go back to normal as soon as I shut the headlights/foglights off.

    I am not very vehicle savvy but I imagine this is maybe a fuse. But I wanted to know if anyone on here had an idea of what might be wrong, or if any of you have experienced this. And if so, how I can fix it. Thanks!
  • chrismr80chrismr80 Member Posts: 2
    First my fans went out that cool the engine, both of them, so my car overheats if I'm not constantly driving to allow air to flow through the engine. The fuses were blown so I replaced them and they blew right back that day. Also my break lights don't work anymore and the fuses arent even blown and the bulbs have been changed, still not working. Anybody have any suggestions?
  • plancorplancor Member Posts: 6
    im having a problem with display light for a/c and heater display, temp and functions will work but you dont know where you are sure by putting it on auto this will suffice but its a crap shoot. repeat all functions work,just the display light,and thats when it wants to and no rhyme or reason to that . totally annoying. thanks for any advice
  • macsailormacsailor Member Posts: 1
    On the way home fuse 17 blew. Found it replaced drove for 2 days, blew again, replaced blew next morning and everytime driven after that. This circuit contains the AC head controller, ABS Controller, Day/Night Mirror, and Transmission Sensing Switch. We've put a meter on it and found out that it blows right after you accelerating from a dead stop.. When you let off the gas, bam!! it blows. We disconnected the AC controller and turned off the day/night mirror but it still blows.

    Anyone have any thoughts ideas or same problem?
  • ahlisahlis Member Posts: 1
    Hi people,
    I´m living some 100 km above the arctic circle and for some years I´ve been driving a -99 300M that runs smoothly. The other day the headlight (drivers side) went out.
    As I understand it´s a bit tricky to change bulbs, so before starting I would really appreciate some advice from any of you hardened Chrysler owners that knows how it should be done in the best way. Thanks in advance.
  • atl300m1atl300m1 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the exact same experience. What answers did you get to resolve it. I have been checking the wiring harness under the front passenger wheel. Does anyone know where I can get this part on the cheap? Please Help
  • tbodytbody Member Posts: 1
    I'm having an issue regarding my Engine and Electrical warning lights. I live in New York and a hurricane just by-passed us. Since then... The engine and electric light have been on as soon as the engine is started. Is this a major problem or just a case of wet wires?

    Has anyone else ran into anything similar?
  • optimozoptimoz Member Posts: 2
  • optimozoptimoz Member Posts: 2

    I recently purchased a 1999 300M and the overhead interior lights seem to be burnt out or might be an electrical problem.

    I can't seem to get the piece off to check the bulbs. I only see one screw and I took that out and the back seems to pull off a little but the front will not budge and I didn't want to break it.

    Please help me understand how to take this piece off so I can check the bulbs. It's the overhead lights pannel where it shows the temp outside, MPG, and other things.

    Anyone??? Please help...
  • drew300mdrew300m Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 300m special...and am having issues where all of the lights work sometimes and not others. This makes it difficult to see my rpm and speed. everything else seems ok. any ideas?
  • jw300mjw300m Member Posts: 8
    My driver's heated seat is "acting up" will turn on and stay on when the car is in park, but if you are driving it turns itself off. I replaced the switch and it still does blown fuses either. The passenger seat is working fine so I do not think it is the module that is located under the seat....bad ground? any ideas?
  • barb2barb2 Member Posts: 2
    hi: So proud to see this 2001 300M Chryler 69,000 miles.. has just started doing this.... and I took it to my Chrysler this morning for the Fall Maintenance check...and mentioned this to them... and all check out with the test. So will definitely give this Scroll the dimmer wheel/Light Switch a try.

    Thanks! Barb
  • rmotarmota Member Posts: 3
  • rmotarmota Member Posts: 3
    Just sharing an interesting find. So my headlights ended up turning yellow and I was looking for suitable replacements I didn’t want to buy the OEM replacements so I started searching around finally someone suggested I look into the projector headlight soon to be carried by Spyder Auto. Apparently the chrome housing headlights are now available, but I’m anxiously awaiting the arrival/release of the black housing ones which are best for my car. Anyway, If you find yourself in the same predicament, I strongly recommend you check them out.
  • JillySJillyS Member Posts: 1
    I have a used (2000) 300M without a manual and am not sure where the fuse box is. Can anyone tell me? (My passengar seat is reclined and will not go back up. I am hoping it is just a fuse.)

  • atl300m1atl300m1 Member Posts: 2
    The fuse box is under the hood in the black box in front of the coolant container.
    The cavity number is 20 and it uses a 20 AMP C/BRKR.
  • jenscar03jenscar03 Member Posts: 3
    I am an owner of a 2003 300M and love it, but am having a ton of problems. Most of them I can live with like the windows not going down, the lights coming on/off, the engine light staying on and the overhead digital information thingy burnt out. But today it was about 12 degrees and the key would not turn in the ignition. This happened before and I was able to get it to turn after a few times after pushing the open/lock button. I tried all day to get the key to turn, even checked the steering wheel and nothing. In addition we have multiple problems with our 2000 dodge durango and I am looking for any advice on getting this key to turn before I drop coin on both vehicles.
    Looking for help!
  • deals999carsdeals999cars Member Posts: 1
    Jill there is also a fusebox on the end of the drivers side dash between the door and the side panel of dash. You can only see it with the door open,Hope this helps deals999cars
  • chrismr80chrismr80 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 300m and the fan fuses blow out as soon as I replace them so the engine continues to overheat. The break lights are out too. Any ideas?
  • duffer65duffer65 Member Posts: 5
    Had similar problem with my 2003 M. Make sure that the car is in Park, rarely happens but it is irritating. There must be a little "glitch" in the transmission that allows this to happen but by placing the car in "park" again, the key will turn. Hope this is helpful.
  • jenscar03jenscar03 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for replying and for your suggestion! But, it happened again today. I believe it has something to do with the cold weather. It is extremely irritating especially when leaving a long day of work and being late to pick up the kids. Looks like I will be taking to the dealer to get checked out.
  • aureairisaureairis Member Posts: 1

    I own a 2000 300m and have had the problem that you are having a few times. I had to call a locksmith to fix it. He said that it is a common problem with the 300m's - the ignition locks! :shades:
  • plancorplancor Member Posts: 6
    i had the same problem with my 99 300m ,it just kept getting worse,went to dealer ahd a new ignition lock put in ,they recoded it and no more problems. cost: 200.00 worth every penny to me
  • ajs2000300majs2000300m Member Posts: 2
  • ajs2000300majs2000300m Member Posts: 2
    All 4 windows have quit working even the little green lights on the switches. I checked the circuit breaker on the fuse panel and its ok. Could it be the main drivers side switch that is bad? All the windows should be powered from the main switch. Has anyone else out there had this problem? I really want to avoid taking it to the dealer and find out that it is just the switch.
  • pissedoff4pissedoff4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi folks,
    It doesn't look like anyone has posted on to this thread for several months, so I hope this wont fall on deaf ears (or no ears at all, for that matter). I came here to see if I could find a solution to the latest problem on my car, and all I realized is that my car totally blows. I read MANY posts. I wish I read them years ago. Right now, I have some bat-[non-permissible content removed] crazy electrical problem and my car isn't starting at all. Not even a noise when I turn the key... not even a dash board light (usually... sometimes every light possible is on... but it still wont crank)

    So, here is an open letter to all 300 M owners who have posted here... please enjoy.

    To the person who experienced both of their coolant fans seizing and is overheating if not in constant motion to draw air through the radiator: Been there (for years)

    to the one who's ignition wont turn (seems locked?).... You'll need to replace the whole ignition switch/lock/cylinder. I did.

    To the guys and gals with possessed interior lights. Its weird at first, but you get used to it. The flickering and flashing never ceases to freak out your passengers.

    To the people who have their car cough and stutter and stall out completely... O2 sensor or swithch or intake something or other. Its a [non-permissible content removed] but at least its not your transmission.

    To those whose seat heaters stopped working: Let me know if you find an easy fix...its just not that important to me. I have been without for 2 years.

    To anyone whose AC went out: I have been driving without it for the better part of 4 years.

    You say your wiper fluid light stays on when full, but goes off when empty? Yeah, me too. Thousands. There is way too much to take apart to fix it.

    Radiator leaking? May be due to the fact that you overheat from time to time because those fans stopped working. sucks.

    Do your front woofers work? I blew mine out in 2005 listening to talk radio.

    Oh... my alarm goes off every time I use the key to open the driver's side door... my key fobs already failed. I have to unlock the car from the passenger's side, but it makes me look like a gentleman when on a date.

    Sometimes my headlights will turn on buy themselves when Im not even in the car. I think thats cute.

    The tires... can you pick a stranger size of tire? Unless you really shop around, they will cost you over $200 a pop.

    I havent even touched on the basic maintenance of the car that I hate so much.

    So, if you re wondering what is wrong with your car, it's that you own a 300M. they absolutely suck.

    If I didn't get laid off, I'd buy a new one. Mine doesn't even start now due to a seriously freaky electrical problem The bright side is that I save on gas money, something that this POS has never been very good at until now.

    Anyway, its a good thing that I don't have to drive to work everyday or else this thing would continue to nickle and BENJAMIN me to death.
  • plancorplancor Member Posts: 6
    hi i had an issue with my 99 300m a while back wouldnt start out of the clear blue . owner of the electrical shop told me disconnect the battery for about a half hour to clear the memory and damn a bear it worked , no furthe trouble , maybe itll work for you good luck
  • plancorplancor Member Posts: 6
    hold it thats expensive 3m puts out a product a headlight restoration kit 20 bucks and an electric drill and a half hour a light follow instructions and youll be happy --like brand new available at the auto zone. i dont get a commision by the way lol.
  • plancorplancor Member Posts: 6
    had that problem with rear windows , think its the contacts from door to frame , i sande them down a little and it seemed to help. give it a try maybe - maybe not.
  • plancorplancor Member Posts: 6
    this am my abs and trac control warning lights went on and stayed on . used car last night and all was fine. when starting ,trac light on light comes on and goes off but trac off light stays on . have a 99 300 m .should i disconnect battery cable and let it clear out? any ideas?
  • damon4damon4 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, i have seen some similar posts on braking but none that clearly deifne an issue. I have a 99 300M with 144K on it. This morning as I am backing out of the driveway I continued to role back into traffic with my 2 little ones in the back. Thank GOD! we were able to stop as I practically stood on the brake.
    I get a hissing sound when I push the brake pedal. You can hear it while sitting in the car, the brake has to be pressed all the way to the floor. I have not driven it at all as this would definitely not be safe. I have thought master cylinder could be the problem or perhaps the brake power booster. I mean we all have the same car their has to be similar fixes right?
    And for most of you who are having electrical issues or stall out issues. Try simply getting the battery positive ad negative terminal wires and posts changed. For some reason chrysler thought it a good idea to place the battery low on the car and by the wheel well no less. I was stalling bad, thought it was the alternator, NOPE simply the positive/negative connection wires that were beyond corroded and the posts were barely touching the battery(stripped)
  • kingjossi707kingjossi707 Member Posts: 2
    Hey i have a 2000 300M and i was wonderin how to replace the roof click sights. They both went out. They doors will be open and all the lights come on except the roof ones. I want to get new bulbs but i dont know how to take off the little covers. Can anyone help? :confuse:
  • srjacksonsrjackson Member Posts: 1
    I've read lots of posts and am not the least bit encouraged by what I find. I've determined that my car is a major POS....but I can't afford to replace it just yet.

    I'm having problems with the front passenger power window. The damn thing is stuck in the down position...fortunately it's not down all the way (this time). It was stuck in the down position one other time so I took it in to the shop to have it fixed. I had to have the door torn open and the motor replaced - cost me $150. Now the window is only down a little bit, but is stuck again. I don't want to pay to have another motor replaced, so for now I've got plastic taped over the opening...real attractive.

    Anyone have any ideas for getting the stupid window back up....that won't cost me money? I've already tried forcing it back up...didn't work.
  • dominoswenchdominoswench Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 300m, and all of the interior lights blink and flash and sometimes the dome lights will just come on while im driving down the road. Ive noticed that if i mess with the switch it will stop most of the time. However, there have also been times when while the car is parked, off and the keys removed that the headlights will come on and off by themselves. Sometimes quickly and sometimes they will stay on for several seconds. This spell can last as long as 10-15 minutes according to people who have noticed it. Any thoughts on the problem?
  • dddancersdddancers Member Posts: 2
    Good morning,

    I am curious about your car's headlights coming on and off by themselves, as I have had ta similar experience with my 2001 300m. The car belonged to my father, who passed earlier this year. On two separate occasions (as I stood talking to two friends)~the tail lights came on a off a number of times in rapid succession, as if they were blinking at us. The car had not been driven recently, was locked, the keys were in the house, and no one else was in the vicinity. Yesterday was the second occurrance of this phenomonen, and this time, the lights went on and off about three times and then stayed on. After several minutes, with the lights still on, I told my friends~ the same friends that had been with me the first time~ that I was not going anywhere until the lights went off~which they did, about three seconds after I made the comment! Is this similar to the experience you have had? I am curious to know more about this phenomenom, and if others have witnessed the same thing. Thanks!
  • jlr13189jlr13189 Member Posts: 3
    We have the same problem with a 1999 300M and have no idea what is causing the problem We suspect it is the light sensor on the top of the dash, but don't know Now that my daugher has taken the car to college, it is periodically running the battery all the way down and leaving her stranded. If you find out what's wrong, please post the answer.
  • dddancersdddancers Member Posts: 2
    Hi, thanks for your message. If I discover the cause, I will contact you asap!
    By the way, are you familiar with the device that keeps a car battery charged at all times? It is mostly intended for people that don't use their cars very often, but it might be helpful for your daughter, if her battery runs down frequently due to this problem. If you need more info, let me know and I will check on details from my friend who has this device.
    Best wishes,
  • jlr13189jlr13189 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Diane, I am anxious to find out the cause of the problem. If you are referring to a trickle charger, I don't think that will help her as the parking is in a large lot in the middle of nowhere.

    Please forward your solution.

    Thanks :)
  • isabeaudryeenisabeaudryeen Member Posts: 2
    The first time this happened to us we had our mechanic look at the windows and all they had to do was get the window pane lose from the door's insulation.

    There are two simple ways to prevent this problem. This problem is the result of the windows becoming stuck in the door frame insulation. If the windows are closed to just touching the door frame they will not get stuck. Close them all the way and then open it just enough that the window stays in contact with the door, but is not driven deep inside the insulation. Another solution is to just make a point of opening the windows once weekly because if they move out of the door insulation periodically they do not get stuck inside it. I find it works well in winter to just make opening the windows for a moment part of my routine of letting the car warm up.
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