It seems that more than a few Focus ownwers are looking for the stock 16' Cougar wheels. They fit well and look great on the Focus. If anyone wants to sell them, I can post a link to this forum. It sounds like the going price is about $185 for the set from some take-off wheel guys, but any other sources would be nice.
Since I am bringing in my Cat on Monday to have her checked out for a stalling problem I had last week, I decided to remove the chip and the KKM intake system. I don't want the dealer to blame the problem on these two mods.
After I reinstalled the stock air box, I reset the computer and let her idle for 10 minutes in my driveway so the computer could readjust to the stock intake. I then decided to take her for a spin down the highway just to make sure she ran fine.
For the past few years here on Edmunds I have heard a number of people make arguments against after-market intake systems. Some say that you get the feel of more horse power due to the louder intake, but in fact the after-market add on is not really increasing performance at all. This is why I chose to turn on my stereo full blast before I pulled out of my driveway (and I have a HUGE system for those of you that don't know). Since the stereo was turned all the way up I was not able to hear the engine therefore I would have to judge the difference solely by the way she felt.
The first thing I noticed was the lower idle. With the KKM she idles around 700 RPMs, with the stock system she was idling around 500 RPMs. I pulled out of my driveway and made my way down to the highway entrance ramp. After I got on the ramp I gunned the engine and the response was noticeably different. The lag I felt was so bad I actually thought something was wrong so I turned down the stereo so I could listen for anything out of the ordinary, but I heard nothing wrong. The stock air box truly restricts performance so much that I really felt like I was driving a different car.
I cruised down the highway for about 5 miles and turned around and came back home. She ran just fine, but she felt totally different. I can't wait until after the dealer is done checking her out so I can reinstall the chip and the KKM.
How difficult was it to perform the mod? I printed the How To from the NECO site but things look a little confusing. I plan to perform the mod the next time I change my oil.
I may replace the muffler on my Pacesetter exhaust with either a Dynomax muffler or I may get crazy and just replace it with a straight pipe. I wonder how much louder it be with just the straight pipe.
I have found an inexpensive way to correct any, if there is any, power losses due to the crappy muffler on the Pacesetter exhaust. Summit Racing carries a Dynomax Bullet Muffler that will fit the exhaust and it costs $31.95. It is a 4" round glasspack looking muffler that is probably lighter than the muffler on the exhaust system. Even if the muffler on the Pacesetter is fine, this Dynomax muffler definately has a better flow rate and its lighter to boot. That is like killing two birds with one stone. I'm not sure what muffler shops charge for installing a muffler, so I'm going to call around and get some prices. All in all, I think I'm going to go for it.
I don't know. I do know that my gas mileage is not the best. I average around 18 mpg in the city. I don't know if the summer heat has anything to do with it. I also cleaned my KKM intake filter recently and don't know if I put enough oil back on the filter. The muffler on the Pacesetter looks exactly like the stock muffler. I know that doesn't mean much, but it did catch my eye. My point is for $65, including the muffler and installation, I can have an upgraded exhaust. It is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to have to go back and modify a modification, but when I only spent $150 for the exhaust kit to begin with it still comes out cheaper than the Borla. From the reports I've been reading the Dynomax mufflers have the best flow rates out there.
I also noticed NOPI now carries a B&M short shifter for our Cougar. It is priced at $108. This may be my next purchase since I'm not real happy with the stock shifter. Does anyone have any expriences with short shifters and how they improve the feel of the car?
It is a fast and easy mod. The hardest part was holding down the copper cap when i drilled it (I didn't have a vise, vise grips, or pliers to use).
It really works fine. I had expected it to be a little more drastic in how fast the rpms went down. But after I thought about the fact that it is just a throttle HANG mod I noticed how good it was.
The throttle simply no longer hangs the way it used to. It is a lot easier to shift smoothly.
Also my KKM is definitely a little louder than it was before the mod. Before when the car was idling I didn't really hear the KKM, now I do.
I also hear the KKM make a little "puff" sound each time I shift now. I really believe that my engine is breathing more air in since the mod.
Badulah:
From what I have read about the way the muffler on the Monza is built I believe it definitely loses horsepower.
Unless you simply want a dual exhaust for the looks (I do, so I will have a custom quasi-dual exhaust like the SVT Contour done on my car in a couple of months), the resonator removal, along with an after market muffler is the only performance mod you really need.
I discovered yesterday that cooler weather makes a big difference on how the Cougar, with a KKM intake, performs. After a small shower had dropped the temp to the low eighties, the car seemed to regain the lost power I had mentioned a few posts earlier. Can't wait until fall weather comes back to Texas so my baby will be herself again.
Degemini:
Thanks for the info. I think I mentioned that I got the How To from NECO, but you were right, I did print it off of the Fastcougar site. Next oil change, this mod is going to be done.
I'm going to scrounge up the $150 to order the Dynomax muffler and B&M shifter ASAP. Summit notes that the Dynomax is for race apps only and that emissions won't pass inspection. That sounded strange since I thought that a muffler had nothing to do with the emissions. Any opinions on this.
Since the shifter is a direct replacement of the stock unit, I will do it myself. It doesn't need any modifcation of the console at all. The Model # of the shifter is 45086. I have been tring to find a picture of it to see what it looks like, but I can't seem to locate one. I guess I'll just order a catalog from B&M.
Well, I went ahead and ordered the B&M shifter for my car last night. Carparts.com had a coupon in Motor Trend that took $50 off first time users orders. I ordered the shifter, a fuel filter, and a cabin filter that totaled just under $100 including the shipping.
I went to the Contour site to see if anyone had installed the shifter on their SVT, and there was quite an interest about the shifter for that car. Since the cars share the same transmission, the shifter naturally it is the same. The general consensus is that it definately improves the shift feel. Throws are shorter and smoother. I figure the combination of the shifter and throttle hang mod should really improve the drivability and performance of my car.
Now I have to play the waiting game. That's the one bad thing about mail order. You don't get your hot little hands on stuff right away.
Next month I guess I'll order the Dynomax muffler. That whole project should only run about $65. This mod business can be addicting. As long as I don't start putting large Japanese letters on my car, I guess I'll be alright.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Went to Meineke today to have my already modded exhaust turned into a dual (Already had resonator removed and a mini turbo muffler).
Total cost to cut a hole in the existing exhaust at the bend and weld on aluminized tubing creating the Y and adding the other mini-turbo muffler was $106.00.
When you add the initial cost of having my resonator removed and adding the mini-turbo muffler a year ago (which was if I recall correctly about $75.00) the total cost for my modified/customized dual exhaust was $180.00 including labor.
My car now has a slighly lower rumble, and revs even more freely than before. It also a true dual muffler (meaning 2 mufflers instead of a single muffler and two resonators)set-up so it flows better than the Pacesetter AND the Borla.
I haven't really had an opportunity to test the car out yet. Just after I was reconnecting my battery to my car after removing it for about an hour to let my cars computer reset it started to rain.
I will post the results tommorrow!
P.S. My car looks almost like the pics of the Dynomax dual set-up others have posted. I just have 2 inch chrome angled tips. I just didn't want to pay 20-40 bucks for 3 inch tips.
The B&M shifter I ordered will be on my doorstep on Wednesday. I guess that means I will be taking Thursday off from work to install it. It has recieved alot of good reviews from those who installed it in their Contours. I will let you know how it works for the Cougar.
Thanks Esbrock. Is it possible for you to scan some pics of what the unit looks like both before and after installation? I checked out B&M, and Nopi, but can't figure out which picture (Nopi has no photo) the Cougar's specific application is.
Thanks in advance, and good luck on the install! Did you have to get a new shift knob as well?
The cool thing is that you can use your shock shift knob if you want. Which I like, because stealth mode to me is very desirable. From the pictures I've seen showing Contour installs, The only visual difference, if you use the stock shift knob, is that the stick is shorter. I would compare it to how the VW Corrado shifter looks like. Here again, to me that is WAY COOL.
esbrock: Though I know you will cover these issues, there are some specific questions I have since I have never taken on such a project...how well the instructions work, amount of de-construction needed before installation, level of difficulty and time consumed and differences in shift feel and performance.
My stock shifter recently started making it very difficult to shift into first and second gears (only 10,000 miles on the odometer). The dealer has had the Cat for two days waiting for a new shifter to arrive. Hopefully I can return their Sable and get my Cat back this afternoon.
Why do things like this happen to me? The shifter will be here today, but my car won't. This morning when I started her up I heard a strange noise coming from under the hood. When I popped her top and peaked inside, it seems like the idler pulley bearing is sounding like it is about to die on me. Called the dealer, and I am taking her to the car doctor today. Hopefully I'll get her back tomorrow, if so then as soon as I get home the shifter is as good as in. If it takes longer than that, I'll be sitting at home playing with my shifter. Wait, that doesn't sound right, does it?
LOL! Thanks for the update. Good luck with the Cat, I hope the dealer doesn't have to order any parts.
Blane:
I know several folks have mentioned a difficult time shifting within the first 10K miles, but I think most, if not all of them said it worked itself out. I know mine was a little stiff under 10K, but at 26K and counting, it's nice and smooth (too bad my coordination isn't perfect 100% of the time, for some reason I grind third every so often).
But maybe the short shifter would assist with that?
This shifter is not "a little stiff". Its downright dangerous. You can barely move the stick into first or second without a major struggle. Dealer still hasn't received the part.
Man, that Sable sucks up fuel. Nowhere like the 29+ highway mpg on a recent 1,000 mile vacation.
Oh, I know what you were talking about, I just didn't remember if anyone else had the problem as bad as you're experiencing it. Are they telling you what the exact problem is, or are they just futzing with it until they get the part in.
Just futzing. Actually, I got a phone call this afternoon. The part is in...but not in my Cat yet. They promise it for Friday. I'm going to ask them to save the shifter so that I can examine it.
Couldn't wait until Friday, so I installed the shifter last night. It took about an hour and 30 minutes to do it. One word of caution, if you are going to use the stock shift knob be careful not to cross thread it. The threads on the knob are plastic and very soft. I screwed mine up and had to use the knob provided in the B&M kit. It doesn't look bad but, I wanted to use the stock knob.
Anyway, on to the important stuff. How does it feel? The shifts to first and third are about the same as stock. Second, forth, and fifth gear are where you notice a difference. The action is very positive. You feel the gears engage and the action is smooth. It almost feels like the shifter gets sucked into position. What I like the best is that fifth gear is very easy to find. With the stock unit, I would sometimes have to think about putting it into fifth. Now it finds its way and the throw is quite a bit shorter. If you take a look at the stock shifter, you can see why it feels so crappy. It is 40% plastic, which means you get alot of play.
On a side note, with the shifter being about an inch or so shorter, it's alot easier get to the stereo controls. All in all, I am pretty happy with it. After I drive it over the weekend I'll give another report on it. I wasn't able to take pictures of the install, but I'll take pictures of it now so anyone that is interested can see how ii looks. I wasn't too concerned about install pictures because the instuctions that come with the kit have pictures included.
Hey- check out this month's 'Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords' magazine. There's an article in there about the Vortech supercharged cougar. Pretty cool! It added 90 horsepower and they put some other stuff on as well. Wouldn't it be nice if this car existed?! Oh well- I can always wish.
I am finding myself becoming mod crazy. All I seem to think about is how I can tweak my cougar. Sunday I spent a total of 5 dollars on a couple of mods that really seem to improve the responsiveness of the Duratec. First of all, I performed the Throttle Hang Mod. Spending 15 cents on a 1/2 inch copper cap and restricting the air bypass hose. Second, I followed the advice of our Contour cousins and performed the EGR block. All I spent on this was 4.50 on two gaskets. If you have the KKM intake, let me tell you, these two mods make a significant improvement. You can hear more air being sucked through the intake. Throttle response is a lot better as well.
After driving around this weekend, I must also give a thumbs up on the new shifter I installed. The action is very positive, you know when it is in gear. I don't think I will ever grind third or have to search for fifth gear again. Now what do I do next? I am really eyeing a set of Eibach springs, a set of Yokohama A520's, and a dynomax racing muffler. I need help, SOMEBODY STOP ME!!!
On the CEG page one of the disscussion groups talked about it. They said there were instuctions somewhere but I couldn't find them. Anyway, here is how it was explained in the forum.
1. Purchase two EGR gaskets at the dealer. They usually run about 2 to 4 dollars each. 2. Use a piece of thin (1/8 inch) aluminium or stainless steel plate and shape it to match the gasket. 3. Drill the bolt holes in the plate to match the gasket. Use a 9/16 inch drill. Clean the holes. 4. Drill the center hole with a 7/32 inch drill. Clean the hole. 5. Detach the EGR valve from the intake manifold and remove old gasket. 6. Sandwich the restrictor plate between the two gaskets and reattach the EGR valve to the manifold.
That is all it takes. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start so the ECU can reset itself when your finished. This reduces the amount of useless inert exhaust gas that gets sucked into the engine. If you completely close off the valve, then the check engine light will come on and you may get the computer trying to compensate. But compared to the 3/4 inch hole that normally supplies the exhaust gas, the reduction is significant. Since the EGR can never measure enough vaccuum to cause it to activate, it thinks that you are never accelerating hard.
When I first installed the KKM intake, my first mod, you could easily hear it sucking in air. After the cat-back exhaust was installed, that rumble overtook the intake note. Now with the implementation of the throttle hang mod, which resticts the air bypass hose, and erg restriction the increased air flow has made the intake note definately more noticeable. The more fresh oxygen your car takes in the better. Throttle response is better and those annoying little hitches in the power curve, when the ac is on, are all but gone. All for the total of about 5 dollars out of pocket and a couple of hours to get every thing ready. Actual installation of both mods took about 30 minutes.
I'm not sure what impact it has on the exhaust. Since the built in limits on the sensors are not causing the check engine light to come on, I assume every thing is O.K. If it fails inspection, I guess you could always quickly reverse these procedure.
This is true, but it is the least of my worries. My tinted windows are going to give me problems. I have find a private inspection station in the area. The state run stations will fail me as soon as they see me pull up.
This is my first time posting in over a week! Edmunds had me locked out!
I might have to try that mod you just did Esbrock. It sounds interesting. I already noticed that the throttle hang mod caused my KKM to suck in a little more air.
Speaking of inexpensive mods, check out these two posts I put on the NECO board while I was "away". This is a mod I have been wanting to do for a while, and I am quite happy with the results.
Posted 29 July 2000
I just modified my own KKM to suck in a little cool air by using a piece of 2 7/8 inch "Mighty Flow" air intake hose from Advanced Auto Parts.
I attached the hose to the hole in the fender that the stock air box attached to. I removed plate with the male attachment(just push out on the little handle and pull up).
I then cut off the clips the hose. Formed the hose to about the same size as the hole on the plate, and duct taped the hose to the plate.
I then slid the plate back into place and stuck the other end of the hose into the middle of the KKM.
Hopefully this set-up will be as effective as yours, It also looks good since the Mighty Flow Air intake hose looks stock, (Ok, it would look stock if I didn't have to use silver duct tape!)
The Specs for the hose are as follows:
Mighty Flow Air Intake Hose (Part # 96060) 2 7/8 Inches in diameter 19 inches long (when extended). Price: $7.41 plus tax.
Although the hose is 19 inches long when stretched out I didn't have to cut it. It looks great, was relatively inexpensive, and really quick!
Here is a picture of Anthony Festino's Cougar:
remus.rutgers.edu/~afesti...r/KKM1.jpg
He did something similar to what I just did, only he used a piece of old lawnblower hose. I also wan't to do something similar to keep additional hot air from the engine out, but I don't want to use foam since it could burn and or melt. here is the link to the Post where Anthony talks about the mod to his Cougar.
pub6.ezboard.com/fneconew...2670.topic
Posted 30 July 2000
Today I noticed what appeared to be improvement to my cars performance.
I hooked up the air intake hose to my Cougar as mentioned earlier in my post yesterday. I drove it around today and noticed that my car seemed to be a little more responsive then it had been previously.
I just modded my exhaust by converting it into a quasi-dual set-up. I had noticed that after doing it I had lost a little low end responsiveness (which based on my studies was to be expected).
Well, I seemed to have gotten the responsiveness back. It could be that my cars computer has adjusted to the mod, or that I recently switched to 93 Octane gas (I like how my car feels running 93 octane. I think I will stick with it despite the cost), but I really think it is because of hose I added yesterday or maybe a combination of all three.
Just by connecting a hose to the hole in the fender and running it into the front of your KKM you have essentially modded it into a a poor man's KKM SVT intake.
So now based on my experience, and the experiences of others on this post, I now believe this is a quick, worthwhile, inexpensive, performance enhancing mod that I would recommend to anyone.
I'm not questioning the fact that this somehow doesn't improve performance, but I wonder why KKM doesn't make them like this, or at least offer an upgrade kit?
Are glasspack mufflers restrictive? I am looking for a replacement muffler for my Pacesetter exhaust. I found a Dynomax Thrush Glasspack muffler that would fit. It sounds like a straight though performated tube design. I'm not sure what the flow characteristics on these types of mufflers are though. Does anyone have an opinion?
Krnch: Nope. I got two letters saying it was on backorder, and then I got a third that said they were canceling the order because they did not know when it was going to come off backorder.
If the Thrush is a tubular design, the flow is straight through, without any bends or backflow.
The sound damping is done by the perforations allowing the expansion of the gas pulses to dissapate into the outer chamber.
It should be lower in restriction than the normal backflow type supplied as standard equipment.
The only difference between glasspack and steelpack tubular designs is the sound. Glasspacks tend to be softer in tone and burble rather than produce a sharp exhaust note.
Thanks for the info Gustafsc! The muffler I was referring to is sold by Summit Racing for 15 bucks. If the rumors about the Pacesetter exhaust are true, this might be a cheap way to correct it.
Glasspacks also tend to be louder and more raspy (and burbly) than a normally tuned exhaust ... you might want to find someone who has them so you can listen to the note before you buy it. That unique sound is not for everyone.
Comments
After I reinstalled the stock air box, I reset the computer and let her idle for 10 minutes in my driveway so the computer could readjust to the stock intake. I then decided to take her for a spin down the highway just to make sure she ran fine.
For the past few years here on Edmunds I have heard a number of people make arguments against after-market intake systems. Some say that you get the feel of more horse power due to the louder intake, but in fact the after-market add on is not really increasing performance at all. This is why I chose to turn on my stereo full blast before I pulled out of my driveway (and I have a HUGE system for those of you that don't know). Since the stereo was turned all the way up I was not able to hear the engine therefore I would have to judge the difference solely by the way she felt.
The first thing I noticed was the lower idle. With the KKM she idles around 700 RPMs, with the stock system she was idling around 500 RPMs. I pulled out of my driveway and made my way down to the highway entrance ramp. After I got on the ramp I gunned the engine and the response was noticeably different. The lag I felt was so bad I actually thought something was wrong so I turned down the stereo so I could listen for anything out of the ordinary, but I heard nothing wrong. The stock air box truly restricts performance so much that I really felt like I was driving a different car.
I cruised down the highway for about 5 miles and turned around and came back home. She ran just fine, but she felt totally different. I can't wait until after the dealer is done checking her out so I can reinstall the chip and the KKM.
How difficult was it to perform the mod? I printed the How To from the NECO site but things look a little confusing. I plan to perform the mod the next time I change my oil.
I may replace the muffler on my Pacesetter exhaust with either a Dynomax muffler or I may get crazy and just replace it with a straight pipe. I wonder how much louder it be with just the straight pipe.
Oops...that's short shrifters
I meant that's when someone makes up your bed with the sheets turned back halfway...
No, that's short sheeters
Okay...I'll stop now
link:
www.fastcougar.com/how_to/index.html
It is a fast and easy mod. The hardest part was holding down the copper cap when i drilled it (I didn't have a vise, vise grips, or pliers to use).
It really works fine. I had expected it to be a little more drastic in how fast the rpms went down. But after I thought about the fact that it is just a throttle HANG mod I noticed how good it was.
The throttle simply no longer hangs the way it used to. It is a lot easier to shift smoothly.
Also my KKM is definitely a little louder than it was before the mod. Before when the car was idling I didn't really hear the KKM, now I do.
I also hear the KKM make a little "puff" sound each time I shift now. I really believe that my engine is breathing more air in since the mod.
Badulah:
From what I have read about the way the muffler on the Monza is built I believe it definitely loses horsepower.
Unless you simply want a dual exhaust for the looks (I do, so I will have a custom quasi-dual exhaust like the SVT Contour done on my car in a couple of months), the resonator removal, along with an after market muffler is the only performance mod you really need.
Degemini:
Thanks for the info. I think I mentioned that I got the How To from NECO, but you were right, I did print it off of the Fastcougar site. Next oil change, this mod is going to be done.
I'm going to scrounge up the $150 to order the Dynomax muffler and B&M shifter ASAP. Summit notes that the Dynomax is for race apps only and that emissions won't pass inspection. That sounded strange since I thought that a muffler had nothing to do with the emissions. Any opinions on this.
Yeah I agree, I didn't realize that a muffler could effect emissions.
I went to the Contour site to see if anyone had installed the shifter on their SVT, and there was quite an interest about the shifter for that car. Since the cars share the same transmission, the shifter naturally it is the same. The general consensus is that it definately improves the shift feel. Throws are shorter and smoother. I figure the combination of the shifter and throttle hang mod should really improve the drivability and performance of my car.
Now I have to play the waiting game. That's the one bad thing about mail order. You don't get your hot little hands on stuff right away.
Next month I guess I'll order the Dynomax muffler. That whole project should only run about $65. This mod business can be addicting. As long as I don't start putting large Japanese letters on my car, I guess I'll be alright.
Went to Meineke today to have my already modded exhaust turned into a dual (Already had resonator removed and a mini turbo muffler).
Total cost to cut a hole in the existing exhaust at the bend and weld on aluminized tubing creating the Y and adding the other mini-turbo muffler was $106.00.
When you add the initial cost of having my resonator removed and adding the mini-turbo muffler a year ago (which was if I recall correctly about $75.00) the total cost for my modified/customized dual exhaust was $180.00 including labor.
My car now has a slighly lower rumble, and revs even more freely than before. It also a true dual muffler (meaning 2 mufflers instead of a single muffler and two resonators)set-up so it flows better than the Pacesetter AND the Borla.
I haven't really had an opportunity to test the car out yet. Just after I was reconnecting my battery to my car after removing it for about an hour to let my cars computer reset it started to rain.
I will post the results tommorrow!
P.S. My car looks almost like the pics of the Dynomax dual set-up others have posted. I just have 2 inch chrome angled tips. I just didn't want to pay 20-40 bucks for 3 inch tips.
Thanks in advance, and good luck on the install! Did you have to get a new shift knob as well?
How can you be sure it flows better than the Borla?
Esbrock:
Good luck with the install, and like StageLeft said, let us know how it goes.
Thanks for any info you can offer!
My stock shifter recently started making it very difficult to shift into first and second gears (only 10,000 miles on the odometer). The dealer has had the Cat for two days waiting for a new shifter to arrive. Hopefully I can return their Sable and get my Cat back this afternoon.
Has anyone else had this problem?
LOL! Thanks for the update. Good luck with the Cat, I hope the dealer doesn't have to order any parts.
Blane:
I know several folks have mentioned a difficult time shifting within the first 10K miles, but I think most, if not all of them said it worked itself out. I know mine was a little stiff under 10K, but at 26K and counting, it's nice and smooth (too bad my coordination isn't perfect 100% of the time, for some reason I grind third every so often).
But maybe the short shifter would assist with that?
This shifter is not "a little stiff". Its downright dangerous. You can barely move the stick into first or second without a major struggle. Dealer still hasn't received the part.
Man, that Sable sucks up fuel. Nowhere like the 29+ highway mpg on a recent 1,000 mile vacation.
Just futzing. Actually, I got a phone call this afternoon. The part is in...but not in my Cat yet. They promise it for Friday. I'm going to ask them to save the shifter so that I can examine it.
Anyway, on to the important stuff. How does it feel? The shifts to first and third are about the same as stock. Second, forth, and fifth gear are where you notice a difference. The action is very positive. You feel the gears engage and the action is smooth. It almost feels like the shifter gets sucked into position. What I like the best is that fifth gear is very easy to find. With the stock unit, I would sometimes have to think about putting it into fifth. Now it finds its way and the throw is quite a bit shorter. If you take a look at the stock shifter, you can see why it feels so crappy. It is 40% plastic, which means you get alot of play.
On a side note, with the shifter being about an inch or so shorter, it's alot easier get to the stereo controls. All in all, I am pretty happy with it. After I drive it over the weekend I'll give another report on it. I wasn't able to take pictures of the install, but I'll take pictures of it now so anyone that is interested can see how ii looks. I wasn't too concerned about install pictures because the instuctions that come with the kit have pictures included.
After driving around this weekend, I must also give a thumbs up on the new shifter I installed. The action is very positive, you know when it is in gear. I don't think I will ever grind third or have to search for fifth gear again. Now what do I do next? I am really eyeing a set of Eibach springs, a set of Yokohama A520's, and a dynomax racing muffler. I need help, SOMEBODY STOP ME!!!
LOL!!!
1. Purchase two EGR gaskets at the dealer. They usually run about 2 to 4 dollars each.
2. Use a piece of thin (1/8 inch) aluminium or stainless steel plate and shape it to match the gasket.
3. Drill the bolt holes in the plate to match the gasket. Use a 9/16 inch drill. Clean the holes.
4. Drill the center hole with a 7/32 inch drill. Clean the hole.
5. Detach the EGR valve from the intake manifold and remove old gasket.
6. Sandwich the restrictor plate between the two gaskets and reattach the EGR valve to the manifold.
That is all it takes. Don't forget to disconnect the battery before you start so the ECU can reset itself when your finished. This reduces the amount of useless inert exhaust gas that gets sucked into the engine. If you completely close off the valve, then the check engine light will come on and you may get the computer trying to compensate. But compared to the 3/4 inch hole that normally supplies the exhaust gas, the reduction is significant. Since the EGR can never measure enough vaccuum to cause it to activate, it thinks that you are never accelerating hard.
When I first installed the KKM intake, my first mod, you could easily hear it sucking in air. After the cat-back exhaust was installed, that rumble overtook the intake note. Now with the implementation of the throttle hang mod, which resticts the air bypass hose, and erg restriction the increased air flow has made the intake note definately more noticeable. The more fresh oxygen your car takes in the better. Throttle response is better and those annoying little hitches in the power curve, when the ac is on, are all but gone. All for the total of about 5 dollars out of pocket and a couple of hours to get every thing ready. Actual installation of both mods took about 30 minutes.
This is my first time posting in over a week! Edmunds had me locked out!
I might have to try that mod you just did Esbrock. It sounds interesting. I already noticed that the throttle hang mod caused my KKM to suck in a little more air.
Speaking of inexpensive mods, check out these two posts I put on the NECO board while I was "away". This is a mod I have been wanting to do for a while, and I am quite happy with the results.
Posted 29 July 2000
I just modified my own KKM to suck in a little cool air by using a piece of 2 7/8 inch "Mighty Flow" air intake hose from Advanced Auto Parts.
I attached the hose to the hole in the fender that the stock air box attached to. I removed plate with the male attachment(just push out on the little handle and pull up).
I then cut off the clips the hose. Formed the hose to about the same size as the hole on the plate, and duct taped the hose to the plate.
I then slid the plate back into place and stuck the other end of the hose into the middle of the KKM.
Hopefully this set-up will be as effective as yours, It also looks good since the Mighty Flow Air intake hose looks stock, (Ok, it would look stock if I didn't have to use silver duct tape!)
The Specs for the hose are as follows:
Mighty Flow Air Intake Hose (Part # 96060)
2 7/8 Inches in diameter 19 inches long (when extended).
Price: $7.41 plus tax.
Although the hose is 19 inches long when stretched out I didn't have to cut it. It looks great, was relatively inexpensive, and really quick!
Here is a picture of Anthony Festino's Cougar:
remus.rutgers.edu/~afesti...r/KKM1.jpg
He did something similar to what I just did, only he used a piece of old lawnblower hose. I also wan't to do something similar to keep additional hot air from the engine out, but I don't want to use foam since it could burn and or melt. here is the link to the Post where Anthony talks about the mod to his Cougar.
pub6.ezboard.com/fneconew...2670.topic
Posted 30 July 2000
Today I noticed what appeared to be improvement to my cars performance.
I hooked up the air intake hose to my Cougar as mentioned earlier in my post yesterday. I drove it around today and noticed that my car seemed to be a little more responsive then it had been previously.
I just modded my exhaust by converting it into a quasi-dual set-up. I had noticed that after doing it I had lost a little low end responsiveness (which based on my studies was to be expected).
Well, I seemed to have gotten the responsiveness back. It could be that my cars computer has adjusted to the mod, or that I recently switched to 93 Octane gas (I like how my car feels running 93 octane. I think I will stick with it despite the cost), but I really think it is because of hose I added yesterday or maybe a combination of all three.
Just by connecting a hose to the hole in the fender and running it into the front of your KKM you have essentially modded it into a a poor man's KKM SVT intake.
Here is a picture of the KKM SVT intake.
www.kustomz.com/trsv.jpg
So now based on my experience, and the experiences of others on this post, I now believe this is a quick, worthwhile, inexpensive, performance enhancing mod that I would recommend to anyone.
Did you ever get you Pacesetter exhaust system?
Just wondering,
A.
Nope. I got two letters saying it was on backorder, and then I got a third that said they were canceling the order because they did not know when it was going to come off backorder.
Back to the drawing board!!
The sound damping is done by the perforations allowing the expansion of the gas pulses to dissapate into the outer chamber.
It should be lower in restriction than the normal backflow type supplied as standard equipment.
The only difference between glasspack and steelpack tubular designs is the sound. Glasspacks tend to be softer in tone and burble rather than produce a sharp exhaust note.
Hope this helps.
Skip G.
I would guess that KKM doesn't make them that way because it would cost more money.
Also, how is your car doing? What was the problem? Do you think it had anything to do with the chip?
Glasspacks also tend to be louder and more raspy (and burbly) than a normally tuned exhaust ... you might want to find someone who has them so you can listen to the note before you buy it. That unique sound is not for everyone.
Good luck.