Ford Ranger Radiator Issues
Hey there. I have a 2002 Ranger xlt 2.3 5speed and in the spring i ended up replacing the thermostat, housing and hoses. The truck has run like a champ. The past couple of weeks I have the issue with the temp guaging rising until it nearly hits the overheating mark but before it does, it mysteriously drops down rapidly to the normal level and this process keeps repeating itself every time i drive it.
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Why oh why does everyone on the Ranger area have to start a new thread for their problem???
kcram - Pickups Host
If so, it's probably just the gauge or it's wiring.
If no heat from the heater, the themostat is probably stuck open. A new one should fix this.
For the best milage, and best 'wear' on the motor, the correct, functioning themostat should be in the truck. The motor need to warm up to the expected temperature for the oil to do it's best work, and the best milage. Don't continue to run a vehicle with no themostat or one stuck open. It's not fatal, but does no good to the truck.
Accessory belt: Squealing serpentine drive belt due to faulty water pump pulley on 4.6L V6 engine. (2001)
Air conditioner: The air-conditioner hose may rub against the radiator hose and one, or both, develop
leaks. (1998)
Audio system: The in-tank fuel pump causes a whining or buzzing noise to come through the radio
speakers. (1998-99)
Battery: The battery tray may have burrs that cut into the battery causing it to leak and eventually fail.
(1998)
Engine misfire: Hesitation or surging when accelerating is caused by a faulty mass airflow sensor. (1998-
99)
Engine misfire: The truck may feel like it is thumping or jerking under acceleration due to a problem with
the driveshaft requiring replacement. (1998-99)
Heater core: Installing a restrictor in the heater inlet hose may repair heater cores leaks. (1998-2002)
Timing belt: The timing chain on 4.0-liter V6 may make noise in hard acceleration. A repair kit is available.
(1999-2000)
Transmission problems: Transmission flare when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear is due to shift solenoid
malfunction. (1998-2001)
Vehicle noise: A hammering noise occurs due to steam forming in the cooling system requiring a coolant bypass
retrofit kit. (1998-00)
Please let me know....Phil
Thank you
Anybody figured it out yet?
Could it be a clogged heater core? I don't think my 1999 Ranger has a bypass. If the heater core gets clogged, would that cause this weird problem with the guage,
overflow tank, and cold/hot heating?
HELP!!!!
2) To get coolant back into the radiator from the overflow tank, the rubber line from the top of the radiator to the overflow has to be air tight. No cracks, etc. If it is not airtight, air is pulled back into the radiator, not coolant from the tank. Also, the radiator cap has to be working correctly. It basically has a two-way valve in the top of it. If the radiator overheats, the pressure goes up and at a certain pressure the valve opens and coolant flow thru the rad cap, thru the rubber tube, into the overflow. When the rad cools down, the creates a partial vacumn in the rad which opens the valve in the cap in the opposite direction, allowing coolant to be 'sucked' back into the radiator from the overflow tank.
So, you can see that the radiator cap, it's valve, must be working correctly and there can be no air leaks in the rad cap seal to the radiator and in the rubber hose to the overflow tank. And, in the overflow tank, there is a tube that goes almost to the bottom of the tank. It must be in place, and the hose connection to the top of this tube must not leak, so the coolant will be pulled back into the radiator.
Oh, and all the other rubber lines in the cooling system must be air tight. If you have a small leak in any of them, rad hoses, heater hoses, etc, then when a motor cools down, air will be pulled into the system at the leak, and it will not form the vacumn to pull coolant back from the overflow tank.
As a matter of fact, you might have a head gasket leak. This causes a motor to overheat significantly, which would blow coolant into overflow. But with a bad gasket leak, air could be pulled back thru the gasket and coolant not be pulled out of the overflow.
Basically, if the truck is overheating, you need to work on that first. If it's a head gasket, this is big money to fix.
The symptoms are: coolant goes to reservoir but will not return. When I tried to get the air out, I followed protocol, but upon opening the throttle to 2000 rpm and completing the fill, the rad fluid just gushes out the open rad neck. I get heat upon initially running the engine, but once the fluid is kicked into the reservoir, heat ceases. The temperature gauge never goes above 1/2 way, and it is not over heating. I do smell coolant in the cab, but not sure if it's just from the top popping off the reservoir. The exhaust has been noticeably thicker and whiter, and no coolant leaks can be detected other than the reservoir overflow.
Both upper and lower hoses are warm when running, and the water pump does make a ticking noise when running. Please tell me it is either a water pump or even a heater core, not a head gasket. I'm not sure........
THANKS!
Or, the rubber hose from the cap to the reservoir is bad. Somewhat same problem, it pushes coolant to the reservoir when hot, but when cooled down the hose allows air to be pulled in rather than coolant from the resevoir.
Or, it there is a leak in any of the hoses - radiator or heater - the same thing happens. When the coolant cools down, air is pulled into the system rather than coolant being pulled back from the reservior.
In general, the cooling system has to be air tight everywhere or there will be problems.
I have a 2000 ranger 3.0 and my thermostat was stuck temp got hot and the pipe fitting for the heater sprung a leak. I managed to remove the broken fitting. It is a brass elbow with a temp sensor that threads on the top and the nipple protrudes from the bottom at an angle. My problem is I have not been able to find a exact fitting but have found one with the nipple coming straight out the back. But the air conditioner rigid pipe is right in the way any suggestions
DISREGARD***
Looks like I'll have to find a hose fitting just like the one that came out. There is absolutely no clearance in any other direction.