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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Vibrations

bstep1971bstep1971 Posts: 4
edited September 5 in Chevrolet
Wow. 03 4.3l v6, xcab sls.

I have had a vibration for the past year. Seems like the past few weeks it is getting worse. I took it today to get the wheels balanced, but nope, still there. Now it is accomponied by a rattling noise under the truck, which maybe totally coincidental.

Seems that the vibration really kicks in at 20-22 mph, then levels, and then again at around 40-42 mph.

When I purchased this vehicle used w/48,000 miles, it had been lowered a bit. I noticed this "vibration" and took it back to the dealership, which they replaced the driveshaft. But, it never really helped.

Has anyone else dealt with this issue?


  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Do you know if it has ever been in an accident? When it was lowered could it have some part of the exhaust system making contact with the frame or running gear? One of the posters had a vibration he traced to a loose yoke. Some times a bad motor mount causes a vibration. Good luck. :)
  • as far as I know, the carfax showed "nothing".

    My gf's stepfather looked at it today (he works in service at a GM dealership). When he drove it, he immediatly said CV Joint. The loud vibration, and I mean, loud as in, I have to turn up my stereo LOUDER to hear it, and my rear view mirror vibrates, is coming from under the seats/floorboard area. From what I can tell, there is a double u-joint in the middle. It has to be the CV/driveshaft. I do not know what else it could be! I know its not transmission or tires, so that leaves only this. Any thoughts? :sick:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    CV joint's are on 4x4's in the front. The rear drive has the double u-joint you mentioned called a Cardan joint (expensive). The rear drive shaft is held in place with a center bearing. When any of the above goes out it will give the symptoms your describing. Kinda like a helicopter taking off. It can get bad enough to knock out the pinion seal and bearing. It isn't hard to trouble shoot and isolate once it's up on the car rack. Maybe your gf's stepfather can recommend a reliable shop. Of course, usually the most expensive kind of repair facility are the dealerships. Good luck. :)
  • Your right about the CV's.

    What was found was a couple of items:

    1. The center support bracket was not a match. It was put on "elsewhere", and much thinner than stock.

    2. Slight bend in rear shaft.

    (ujoints ok, nothing major)

    3. Sorry if I do not know the name of this, but the part that comes out of the transfer case in the rear, that bolts up to the rear driveshaft, was stripped, and needs to be replaced.

    4. also a seal where the front driveline meets up to the transmission is bad and needs replaced.

    I get it back tommorow, hopefully this takes care of it.
  • FYI, fixed, as stated above :) FINALLY, NO MORE VIBRATIONS!
  • I have a 1994 S10 pickup with the 4.3 engine. I have noticed recently that when the engine is cold I can feel vibrations coming from the engine compartment. I have replaced the IAC valve, but it still is rough til it warmsa up. broken engine mount? No vibes at higher rpms. Idle speed is about 850-900. Any suggestions. [email protected]
  • Verify all cylinders are firing when cold.

    Pre loosen all plug wires, start it up and lift off each wire from the plug to see if RPM drops.

    If RPM does not drop, there is your dead plug, wire, or bad valve.
    As the engine warms, the valve may make a better seal, as it does when revved up.

    Swap out the wire to a different plug to see if condition follows it.

    An OHM meter will verify the wire.

    A compression test will verify valve, even better is a Leak Down Tester. This tool will show you where the air is leaking from when both valves are closed.
    The air will escape out 3 possibilities, the oil fill - Bad Rings, the exhaust pipe - bad valve, or the intake at the throttle - Bad Valve.

    This tool requires an air compressor and piston at top dead center on compression stroke.

    You didn't mention how many miles.
    Mine has 177,000 and does not burn any oil and runs perfect.
    That's from being very fussy about it all like racing.
  • I am trying to remove the dirvers inside door panel to replace the mirror and cannot get the panel off due to the door opening handel. anyone know how to remove the panel?
  • I own a 2000 s10 extreme
    it has a bad vibration in all speeds
    i checked the U joints and they seem tight to me
    and it has a fresh tranny rebuild
    i raised the rear of the truck to check the rear end
    on the passenger side of the truck i can grab the tire and it moves in and out anywhere from an eighth to a quarter inch
    the drivers side is tight
    Does this mean the axle bearing on the inside needs replaced and could this be the cause of the vibration?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I'd say it's a good bet. Usually along with the symptoms you mentioned you would hear a roaring sound, unless the noise is drowned out with mud tires. :)
  • Iam having the same proplem with my '96 S-10 and a friend told me it is the carrier bearing(the part where the 2 shafts come together right under the floor boards and seats.It is very annoying and a little scary sometimes,good luck..
  • 2dusty2dusty Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 GMC Sonoma and it had a constant vibration when I tested it. The dealer replaced the u-joints and hanger bearing and had the shaft extension put in and balanced. That seems to have reduced the vibration considerably however, I still have a vibration when accelerating from a stop and it is slightly detectable at under 100 KPH. That's about 50 MPH. The rear end was lubed as well. Any suggestions?">
  • ohiaboyohiaboy Posts: 4
    I have a 93 GMC Sonoma 2.8ltr, and i have no power from the grey wire to my fuel pump. i have tested the wire from the fuel pump relay, and i have power. i have been told that it is the oil pressure switch. i was also wondering if anyone knows where i can find the fuse box diagram online. If anyone has any info please email me at [email protected]
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    The gray wire from the relay goes to the fuel pump. On the way to the pump the gray wire connects with the pressure switch wire.
    I would suspect where they connect, most logical is at the switch. If the pressure switch has one wire on one side and 2 wires on the other, the 2 is the connection. If not, good luck looking.
    The pressure switch has nothing to do with your current problem except the 2 wire connection.
  • ohiaboyohiaboy Posts: 4
    well i was driving up a hill and when i stopped at the light and went to take off as soon as i let off the clutch and gave it gas it died and would not start. when i pulled it to a nearby parking lot i smelled burned wires. so far ive trace the fuel pump relay, replace the pump and sending unit. the only thing i havent replaced is the oil pressure switch. and from what i understand like i said before it works as a shut off for the fuel pump.
  • ohiaboyohiaboy Posts: 4
    i know that on the pump there is a purple wire(to the fuel gauge) and a grey wire(to the pump). the oil pressure switch is right next to the oil filter, its sticking out so you cant miss it lol.but i think im going to replace it and see if that fixes the problem if not its one of the wires coming from the switch, i just wish i had a diagram. or knew which fuse in the fuse box works the fuel pump....anyone know?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Burned wire smell, sounds like a short.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Have no information for a 93 fuses, no decal on the cover. On the later ones the pump fuse is ECMB.
  • tdg2123tdg2123 Posts: 1
    i have an 01 s10 xtream and around 32 mph til about 36 mph theres a real bad vibration ...i changed all 3 u joint and the main shaft bearing but it still there ...i dont think its the tranny because i shifted it man. through the gears and felt it in 2ond 3erd and drive goes away after 36 but i can kinda feel it at about 65 again not as much ....could it be the converter or mabye the rear ? ...i took it to a place and they said that the shaft was balanced but the could have been

    anyone else have a prob like this ??
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I had a low speed vibration on my S-10 which turned out to be a bracket to the catylitic converter heat shield.
  • jbzzzzojbzzzzo Posts: 4
    I have new rims and tires, new shocks, drive shaft balanced with new u-joints, even tried new brake shoes and drums....So I assume my axle might be bent. Its not a major vibration, but enough to be anoying. Its a 2 wheel drive so not the CV. If anyone has any thoughts.........or just go ahead with new axles? Then the truck will be practicly brand new. I just rebuilt the engine and painted the truck. I'm ready to be done with it!!!
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Short of hitting a culvert or being in an accent of some kind how does one bend an axle on a S10?
  • jbzzzzojbzzzzo Posts: 4
    My sister-in-laws brother did beat the crap out of it before I owned its hard tellin what he did. I did put it on jack stands and put it in gear. The right side did move up and down about a half an inch and wobbled sided to side slightly. Is that normal. The left side was'nt as bad. Im gona spend $200 on a buffer and buff out my paint job before I spend any more on my....rear end...HA!! Any other suggestions besides taking in to a shop.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sometimes a slipped belt on a tire will cause a bad vibration.
  • :confuse: I have a 1998 s10 2.2 L vortech basic cab with 143.500 miles on it, I've had the truck for a year though in may of this year (08) i was rear ended, my frame slightly bent at the back, in no need of an alighnment though. I've replaced the tires with uniroyal tiger paws and have added a trailer hitch, maybe one month or so after the news tires, i notice a vibration, I check for wheel weights and had lost some, had them replaced, also had u-joints replaced but I still have the vibrations , even worst!
    anybody know the answers to the problems
  • I did finally take it in. The left rear axle is bent a little. So how do I know if i have a 26 spline 7-1/2" Ring Gear or 28 spline 7-5/8" Ring Gear? I need this info to order offline... between $100-150.... its $400 at the dealer. Its 2WD 4L60E tranny, and I could'nt find any stamp on the axle for a code. Help...Thanks....
  • sounds like the same problem im having. 93"sanoma. I've done EVERYTHING, shocks, drums, rims & tires, balanced driveshaft and new u-joints, re-balanced tires, and replaced left axle.. still doing it. I WILL...FIGURE IT OUT TOMARROW.. Im taking the day off, JUST to figure this frickn vibration out.. i'll let ya know....
  • I have a 1995 s10 4.3l CPI with around 32,000 miles on engine and 214,000 on tranny and at 1,900-2,000 RPMs I hear a vibration. It doesn't do it every time, but when it does it doesnt matter what gear. It hasn't always been like this it started a few weeks ago after I rotated my tires if that has anything to do with it. If anyone could help with this I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you.
  • it almost seems like a metal on metal contact and it is throttle first it only did it when i turned to the it has progressed to the point it does it non stop when running...i have dropped the tranny and there is no sign of rubbing anywhere...sometimes when you give it gas it almost feels as if the pedal is catching slightly and it kicks just a little along with the tick...but the sound is coming from the tranny tunnel up close by the heater vent on the drivers side....

    anything helps....really annoying...fed up with it...suggestions please

    its a 1993 sonoma with a 4.3L, automatic
  • smatts40smatts40 Posts: 2
    Well I have a 2003 sonoma reg cab. The rear end vibrates more than it should. I did all trouble shooting I could. Changed tires, checked the drive shaft and mounts, even put light to heavy loads in the bed. The vibrating continues. Oh well. I just recline the seats a bit and then slide the seats back hard so that the headrest smashes up to the back window. That at least keeps the seats from vibrating. If anyone has a solution, please help.
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