.. 4 easy miles from my garage.. RIGHT after work!! And I have only tried mid (89) during the idle wars.. the idle was slightly better but I swear the performance DROPPED. I didnt check MPG. but it felt a bit sluggish at highway speeds passing and accelerating from a ramp. Not a technical answer mopar67, but it sure FELT better (smoother acceleration, shift times, etc..) when I went back to 87.
but I do notice a decrease in mileage during the winter. Part of that I know is the trans does not go into lockup until it reaches a certain temp and unfortunately I go nearly half my distance to work like that. Anyway, just curious thats all. ANy brand of petrol which works best for you?
Does anyone know if DC / Mopar has specs on engine vibration levels as measured at point A, B, C, ... ? If they do or don't, does anyone know who would be able to test for excessive vibration levels? Coming from industry, I've seen where large electrical motors were routinely heat scanned and vibration tested so the right PM occurred to prevent an unplanned failure. With 23K miles on the QC and feeling "more than what I think I remember" levels of vibrations, I wanted to get an answer before the warranty period is over. Apparently my "every 5K" oil sample analysis program has not turned up a problem. If its not in the engine oil then maybe its in the fly wheel (5 speed) because I can reproduce its while sitting still. Maybe I'm just being neurotic.
Just wondered if anyone could give me a definitive answer on the 3.9L engine oil capacity. According to the manual (and the dipstick) the capacity is 4 quarts including the filter change. However, the first time I took my Dakota for an oil change (to a quick lube place) they put in 5 quarts. I noticed this at home when reviewing the invoice. I went back to the lube shop and had them adjust the level. They did say that the manuf. calls for 5 quarts. Anyways, yesterday I had my oil changed at the dealer and guess what, they put 5 quarts in also. I was wondering if maybe the manual is printed wrong and the dipstick is incorrect? Or is the lube shop and the dealer mistaken. I would certainly expect a five star to be able to change the oil correctly.
Still neurotic - While sitting at a red light this morning, idling, I noticed that my oil pressure gauge was reading slightly less than 40. Again, I haven't paid much attention to the pressure other than while going down the highway and it always read about 70 and still does when above 1,700 rpms. After parking, I checked the oil level and it was very near the "Safe" on the stick. Have plenty of oil.
What are others experiencing? When idling, does your oil pressure settle down to sub-40? Has anyone ever had an oil pressure sensor or gauge go bad or do I really have something going wrong?
Chill spike50, I think your oil is fine, once this summer mine briefly dropped below 40 PSI at a stop light during HOT weather. I did not have the AC on (why, I do not know)so the idle was around 550-600..no noise though. I also use Mobil 1 5w30 but have since bagged the Fram filter and have gone with Purolator filter. I notice the motor is slightly quieter on startup. If you by chance using Fram, I'd get it changed to a Purolator or something OTHER than a Fram.
Ahasher, what is the hunting/fishing like in your area? I get 3.5 weeks of vaca next year and the wings you spoke of plus ice cold brew after a day of spinning yarns and fishing well....I just had to ask. No wifey to pester or otherwise hold me back so let me know what you can recommend for fish in your area. I can bring Iron City beer too if you have a tough enough .errrrr....I meant taste for it.
of course BEER.. Im not much of a fisherman but Speckled Trout, Redfish, some Drum and of course catfish are well recommended this time of year in the protected waters.. But I can always hunt for that elusive beer; and Iron City eh?? Hmmm...is that a challenge (beer grin)
I mean rotors and drums aren't warped...................................yet. BUt I started to get a very audible clank when applying the brakes (thats the breaks of mechanicals)so I thought well, better get it in before it turns to something major. COme to find out, the pad is "walking" in the caliper and hitting the caliper edge thus making the clank. Tech rebent the clips on the pad which were slighly out of place to begin with. That sorta fixed it, but two days later its back. I might want to add that upon comparing the original pads to the "new improved" pads, the original pads are about 30% smaller in surface area compared to the replacement pads I got the last time it was in......hmmmmm wonder if its a tacit admission by DC that their first attempt at brake design basically sucks???? Finally, the tech was very thorough and we made numerous drives to duplicate the problem. He actually hung out the door while I drove so he heard the same sound I did. He heard a clicking, clank in back and lo and behold, the sway bar link bushings are all dried out and gone (this is the plastic "dogbone" links which attach the swaybar to the frame. New ones are on order. I will update them that the clank/clunk in front is back I also checked the tech and he found no evidence of looseness or other wear in the front end. Stay tuned, it will get interesting I am sure.
this is from Allpar.com, none of the words are mine.
I wonder what the specific areas of concern are on DC vehicles?
November 21, 2001: Chrysler below average in durability studyWhile Chrysler (particularly the Plymouth brand) have done well in recent quality surveys, the group fared poorly in the 2001 long-term vehicle dependabilty study by J.D. Power. This study examines vehicles after four to five years and finds the number of problems. Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Plymouth all had below-average ratings, with an average of more than 3.8 problems per vehicle (Volvo, Land Rover, Mazda, and Volkswagen were also below average). The top company, by a substantial margin, was Lexus. Cadillac, Honda, and Toyota all beat Mercedes and BMW.
The news was not all bad, as the Chrysler Cirrus topped out the entry midsize category (oddly, the Stratus and Breeze were not in the top three), the Jeep Cherokee made the top three entry-level SUVs, and the Dodge Ram Van/Wagon made the top three full size vans.
Based on some of the varied complaints (mostly brakes), I was wondering if anyone had some advice on getting Dodge's supplemental warrranty program, on top of the 7yr/100K mi option that comes standard right now? I like to do some work myself, but...
I'd set aside some $$$$ to buy some brakes that are deserving of the name brakes, and it sure as hell ain't Dodge! Plus, I would double check the xtd warranty to see if it actually covers brakes. PRobably won't which is an advantage since DC OEM brakes are worthless. I already learned my lesson and next brake job my rig gets will be with Raybestos or Bendix USA made parts, not this third world junk from MExico that DC likes to use.
curious george - If I were you I would give some serious thought to aftermarket extended warranties rather than DC. I believe there are several advantages depending upon which one you select. I did some serious research and ended up selecting Warranty Direct at www.warrantydirect.com My warranty costs about 40% of what a DC warranty would have cost. It begins on the day I signed the contract not on the day the truck was put in service. I signed the contract when my truck was 14 months old which means I will have total coverage of 98 months (those final 14 months are probably the most likely time that something would go wrong). I can take my truck for repair at the facility of my choice, I am not locked into going only to a DC dealership. I have zero deductible, do not have to pay up front and be reimbursed, my plan includes 24 hour roadside assistance and the coverage is just as extensive as that provided by DC.
ck.WARRANTY GOLD.COM out .I purchased my ext warranty from them and feel I got a good deal.$ around 1100.00. I have the diamond plus plan for 7/70,000 miles 0 deduct,roadside service,lock out service,they pay up front,not locked into a DODGE dealership, the plan mirrors the factory warranty. like most warranties incl the factory. maintance items and wear items are not covered re brakes,shocks,battery etc.
I have a 2001 Quad, have taken it in for the same clank when applying the brakes, (original brake pads). It always does it after the brakes have been used some after first starting out. The tech also adjusted the clips and checked everything else. Worked for about a week. This third time I brought it in for this same problem, the service manager stated that the pads were "walking", and that it would cause no problems. Anyone have any thoughts about how to stop the clanking? Not something I want to continue to hear every time I use the brakes, kind of embarrassing when your in a parking lot and using the brakes in a new truck and there is this clanking noise, sounds cheap. I also have had a problem with a rattling sound in the back, sounds like tin hitting tin, the tech checked everything couldn't locate the noise, I thought it might be the heat shield for the exhaust, any thoughts on this? Everything else has been great on the Quad, just everyone knows when I coming down the road.
While I am proud to say my quad has next to no problems in almost 30k miles, I have to comment. What is good about coming in third in full size vans. If I remember right, there are only three full size vans out there.
I will be doing some maintenence work on my '00 Quad Cab with about 20,000 miles on it in a couple weeks. While researching some info in the owners manual and "BOB", it dawned on me that if I was looking for this info, perhaps some of you out there were also. For those who don't already have it, here it is so you don't have to look it up:
2000 Dakota Quad Cab 4.7ltr. Auto tranny 3.55 open rear Part time #NV231 transfer case
The transmission and transfer case take ATF+3 Type 7176 transmission fluid (a special blend for Chrysler vehicles). Refill for the transfer case is about 2.5 pints (2 quarts should cover that). The refill for fluid change in the tranny with filter (no converter removal) is about 6 quarts.
The differentials take 75W-90, GL-5 differential oil. Refill is about 3 pints and you must add 5 oz of friction modifier if you have limited slip.
I believe opinions and experience on this forum would indicate that synthetic fluids used in the above is just about a MUST if you tow; a good idea otherwise.
I too am experiencing the "second time around" rotor problems. Will probably throw in the towel and purchase aftermarket and be done with it! Happy motoring!!
PS: Speaking of refill capacities, this was about a 3 beer job.
Hi all. My 00 slt,4.7,5 spd.with plain tires is doing ok..no broken brakes,no turning clunks,no decent heater/ac controls,... got 34989 on the quad in 19 months,still purrs,still shines,and of course is still being paid for! I will want to find that spark plug post soon..yah know the expensive ones bpeebles uses.It is really satisfying to see so many quads here in texas. slr9589
slr9589 - I have a similar set up to yours; 00 SLT, 5 speed 4.7. I have not had any brake problems or any type suspension noises at 27,900. My only complaint is that in less than 2 years I am about to have my 4th headlight enclosure replaced due to moisture in the lens. My local 5 star tells me that this is not a common problem but it sure has been for me even had this occur with my previous 98 Ram. I don't know what is so dificult about manufacturing a water tight headlamp enclosure.
a used ''01 dakota club cab, 4.7, auto trans from a dealership. The car is is really clean and priced right for this area. The question I have is that when I first started the car, put it in drive, and pressed on the gas, the engine sounded really loud. I"m having a hard time describing the sound. It's like when you have the car in neutral and press on the gas- the engine roars, but not the usual roar, but a loud roar???? After about 30 seconds of driving it disappeared. It only happened when I gave gas. Has anyone experienced this? There's still warranty with this car and it's a certified vehicle. What other things should I be looking for?
What you probably heard was the fan clutch in full engangement mode spinning a large deep pitch fan rather quickly. The fact the noise went away indicates to me the clutch is working as designed.
thanks for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it very much. Boy that eases my mind. It's nice to have a place to post questions where others respond with an informative answer. Thanks again
I need to move my Valentine1 radar detector into my new '02 QC. Direct wire instruction say to tap into a 12v, switched circuit. Can anyone help? Which wire to tap into, what color , where is it, etc. Thanks!
Anyone else have sqeaky bushings? It seems that when I go over bumps (or regular Vermont roads) I hear an awful lot of sqeak. I hear it most while on my driveway at slow speeds. Anyone else have this or should I get it looked at?
Direct wired my Passport into the cigar lighter (+) wire. This has worked fine as it is energized only when the ignition switch is on, and is easily accessed .
of squeaking, groaning and assorted moaning coming from my 01 QC. Has done it since new, currently about 8k miles on truck. Since I now appear to have developed a new 'clunking' type noise coming from right front wheel area (while driving on smooth pavement), I guess it's time to get it checked.
I was really hoping to avoid the dreaded ball joint problems I read about before purchasing, but it appears the curse may have found me. No big deal as long as it's fixed correctly under warranty and stays fixed. I must admit this does not inspire confidence, though.
Other than that and 12.5 mpg,(which is no surprise, so no biggie) truck is trouble free and still pleased with it. 12.5mpg is around town, long highway trips are more like 17.5 or 18mpg. (4.7 auto). Could probably reach 20+mpg if I could stand driving under 60 or 65 on the interstate..:)
(livnlrn) I saw your truck in the parking lot at work today. (That lightbar on the top is hard to miss)
Although I have not encounterd it, some folks have reported that the front (anti)swaybar bushings can become squeeky. It is apparently pretty easy to pull each one off, one at at a time, and apply the approprate rubber-grease then re-install. (two bolts on each one.)
bpeebles... I dont have squeaking with the anti-sway bars, but at 40000 miles some PM to avoid problems is due. What is the "appropriate grease" to use on the bushings? To many products out there, so I would prefer to use the right stuff. Thanks
Is there a torque spec in the BOB for those sway bar bolts?
Yes, my truck is easy to spot. Definatly one of a kind. So much so that it got keyed the other day. $1200 damage, now gotta get into the shop for repairs. Someone out there really not like firefighters that much? Boy am I pissed. Wish me luck on it coming out okay.
bpeebles, glad to see you too survived the big cuts at work.
Stabilizer Bar torque specs; Frame Retainer Bolt= 80 ft-lbs Frame Retainer Nut= 140 ft-lbs Control Arm Retainer Bolts= 25 ft-lbs
Sorry to hear of the scratch in your truck.... Did I ever tell you that Goss Dodge actually closed their HUGE overhead door on the roof of my Dakota? They replaced the windshield and re-painted the entire roof. I even got some free oil changes.
I too, am glad to see you "made the cut" too. Over 500 people were not so lucky as we were.
(ahasher) Any grease that is labelled safe for rubber should be allright. I often use a silicone based grease for rubber o-rings and such. It also helps the rubber retain its flexability by slowing down the drying-out process.
Perhaps your favorite auto-parts store would have a small tube of rubber-safe grease. A little goes a LOONNG way.
I noticed some new 'faces" here. Or at least they are new to me cause I ain't seen em here before!
Here's a good link to some even better advice for those who run an automatic dak.
I personally can vouch that a proper fluid change with the CORRECT fluid (in a certain instance)made the difference between a tranny that worked and one that was ready for the scrap heap.
Now I just hope it is easy to tell which is which when i get under there to grease'em.
Bpeebles, I remember your door accident, did they do a good paint job? Let ya know how mine turns out. Know the guy at Primere Tire in Milton, so goona have them do it.
(livnlrn)The pait job was very smooth. (Perhaps even smoother than the original paint)
However, My experience with paint jobs is not in the initial appearance but instead in the longevity of the finish. By this, I mean that I have often seen paintjobs that look really nice but in a few years there are rust bubbles growing from UNDERNEATH the paint finish. By the time one sees this kind of failure... the metal allready has rusted badly UNDER the paint.
...All because of somone taking a "shortcut" before the application of the paint by not preparing the surface properly.
Unfortunatly, this has been my experience more often than not in paint repairs on several vehicles over the years.
Here are a couple of hints that may help someone. My truck has the 4.7 v-8 and the skid plate package. I found that I can drain the oil into a bucket rather than onto the skid plate by placing a piece of cardboard into the hole in the skid plate near the drain plug. The cardboard is placed so that the oil deflects off of it and follows the cardboard down and into the bucket. Another hint concerns the oil filter. First loosen the oil filter with a wrench. Now surround the filter with a zip lock type plastic baggy. The baggy will catch the oil as you loosen and remove the filter keeping oil from leaking on to the skid plate. Once the filter is removed, you can seal the zip lock baggy and throw it in the trash.
On the oil change I have tried the zip lock bag as well as another suggestion I heard on the DML. The other suggestion was to cut an empty 2 litre soda bottle about 4" from the bottom and use that to grip the loosened filter and catch the driping oil. I have found that this works even better than the zip lock bag. The last time i used it I didn't spill a drop.
Several past posts have discussed the use of the Fumoto valve as an accessory to the oil change process. It screws into the pan where the oil drain plug goes and is a valve with a positive stop in the shut off position. One hooks up a hose to the outlet of the valve and can easily drain the oil into whatever vessel they choose. The valve remains on the oil pan and it's neat as a pin. I'm sure someone on the site here can post the website and part numbers. I think there's a post not too far back.
See installed valve without 'adapter'. Site had said you need adapter for extra $6. I bought it, and didn't use it. No need for it. Haven't checked recent prices.
Hey guys, at 35,000 my truck is slipping around corners on wet pavement....not snow or ice,just that east texas moisture.tread is low and i think it's time for a change. what do you think of trying a michelin passenger tire say 70 width..i do not tow and use the quad mostly as a commuter vehicle...i like the mpg's with the stock tires but i'd like a little more longevity. i am 2wd and there will be NO snow in my future for once in my life. what do you think?
I have a 2002 QC, 4.7L, auto, 4x4 (PT) that has developed a drivetrain coarseness (high frequency vibration?) at about 2000 RPM under light acceleration. This problem started between 650 and 700 miles. You can feel it coming through the floor, pedals, and steering wheel. The truck also seems a little louder now. Prior to 650 miles the drivetrain was exceptionally smooth. This is very annoying since it is in the middle of the RPM range I most commonly drive in. I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet since I suspect it will likely come back as "no trouble found". Anyone have any thoughts or similar experiences?
I agree with you 100% that the Fumoto oil drain vlve is great! A nice edition even if you do not have skid plates. By the way, the least expensive place to purchase is through Summit Racing. http://www.summitracing.com/
Call their 800# and order the F106N for about $20.00. You do not need the adapter by the way.
Thought I would share this with everyone and see what kind of opinions it generates. In the latest (Jan./Feb. 2002) issue of Truck Trend in the Garage section a reader who had recently purchased a Dodge Ram 1500 wrote in requesting guidance as to break in period and when to change over to synthetic oil. Apparently the guy took it in for an oil change requesting Mobil 1 and was told to wait until 12,000 miles. Truck Trends response was basically that the "break in" period is no more than 300 miles and that the school of thought that synthetic oil has a negative effect on engine break in is basically nothing but a myth. They said that Daimler/Chrysler backs their opinion and used the Viper as an example (along with some other high end vehicles) of engines that come from the factory already filled with synthetics. TT's only advice was whatever oil type you choose, that you stick with it and not change back and forth. Opinions?
(slr9589) from your description, you are slipping on damp pavement...NOT hydroplaning in puddles. Thus, the depth of the tread is irrelivant.
In fact... it is well known that tires tend to get BETTER traction as the tread wears down. More rubber on the road means more traction. (Why do you think racecars have NO tread?)
We then move our discusison towards WHY you seem to be slipping around on wet pavement. Do you have LSD? ... this PROMOTES slipping around corners. Also... it is a known fact that after weeks of NO rain... the first few rainstorms brings the drippings and other nasties to the surface making the ashphult VERY slick. Or... perhaps you are just not accustomed to a RWD pickup truck with a V8 in it. Pickups have virtuallly no weight over the rear tires and test to "spin out" in corners easilly... This is just the nature of the beast.
As for you question about tires... Go to Tire Rack and do some research.
Generally... the longer-wearing tires have LESS traction while the sticky rubber compounds will wear faster. With that said.... Michelin is known for its LOONNG wearing rubber compounds.
The tread design is SECONDARY to the rubber compound used when it comes to non-snow traction. (The NOISE of the tread compound is more important.)
(surffla1) are you trying to open a can of worms? There are entire forums debating this stuff.
The term "break in" has changed meanings over the years (Just like "Tune UP" actually MEANT your engine ran better after the process and now it is just a way for mechanics to steal a fools $$)
With that said; (warning:I will be somwhat technical here) A brand-new engine inherantly has many precesin-machined parts that have just been assembled for the first time. There is BOUND to be some excessive friction until the microscopic high-spots wear down a bit. The cylinder-walls and piston-rings need to "seat" to each other to create a good seal for a long, reliable life of the engine.
If you were to have actually READ your owners manual, you would have seen; 1) DC suggests NOT travilig at highway speeds for a specific amount of miles. 2) DC suggests "occasional bursts of FULL THROTTLE accelleration"
Item1 above SPECIFICALY trys to allow the exxesive heat generated by the "wearing of the hight spots" to be dissapated sufficently.
Item2 above SPECIFICLY seats the piston rings in the cylinders. It is the DECALLERATION after the accellation that actually seats the rings.
Using a super-slippery oil may HELP with item1 but will be detrimantal to the seating of the rings. As I said above... seating the rings makes for a long-running engine that does not burn oil(smoke)later in life. A good piston-cylinder seal also makes for a more efficent engine.
Thus... I vote for NOT using a synth oil for the break-in process for these reasons
1) I want to change the oil more often during break-in to remove the metal-particals from the assembly process and using a synth oil would be MUCH more expensive to change frequently
2)I want to take NO chances that my rings do not get seated properly because I expect to keep my truck well over 150K miles.
So ... Why even CONSIDER using synthetic oil during breakin since there is even the POSSIBILITY that it may be dedrimental.
YOur argument that the VIPER, CORVETTE, and some other vehicles come from the factory with synthtic has been put forth in the past.... Assume that the engines in these vehicles are SPECIALLY PREPARED and receive more-expensive machiening processes during manufacturing. wear-in of the parts and seating of the rings can be done at the factory but takes TIME and $$. The production schedules and cost of these vehicles reflect the extra care taken at the factory.
I pick up my factory ordered Dakota any day now. I have read every post in this forum. I fully plan on following the advice I found in this forum and the resounding opinion has been dyno. oil up to the first 3K to 8K miles. When to change to synthetic is still a question I have that has not seemed to have been resolved by this forum. When I saw the item in TT I was very surprised to read it after everything I read here. I posted it solely to get peoples opinions. I too want to keep my truck as long as I can. So let me ask you. What do you consider the break in period? When do you make the first oil change? How often after the first? When do you make the switch to synthetic? Thanx for the info.
Comments
Anyway, just curious thats all.
ANy brand of petrol which works best for you?
Shawn
But seriously. Perhaps they are used to putting 5 quarts on the invoice regardless of what car they service. Not very ethical in my opinion.
Drive Safe,
Joe
What are others experiencing? When idling, does your oil pressure settle down to sub-40? Has anyone ever had an oil pressure sensor or gauge go bad or do I really have something going wrong?
I also use Mobil 1 5w30 but have since bagged the Fram filter and have gone with Purolator filter. I notice the motor is slightly quieter on startup. If you by chance using Fram, I'd get it changed to a Purolator or something OTHER than a Fram.
Ahasher, what is the hunting/fishing like in your area? I get 3.5 weeks of vaca next year and the wings you spoke of plus ice cold brew after a day of spinning yarns and fishing well....I just had to ask.
No wifey to pester or otherwise hold me back so let me know what you can recommend for fish in your area.
I can bring Iron City beer too if you have a tough enough .errrrr....I meant taste for it.
Or does anyone care? Don't care?
Let me know.
BUt I started to get a very audible clank when applying the brakes (thats the breaks of mechanicals)so I thought well, better get it in before it turns to something major.
COme to find out, the pad is "walking" in the caliper and hitting the caliper edge thus making the clank. Tech rebent the clips on the pad which were slighly out of place to begin with. That sorta fixed it, but two days later its back. I might want to add that upon comparing the original pads to the "new improved" pads, the original pads are about 30% smaller in surface area compared to the replacement pads I got the last time it was in......hmmmmm wonder if its a tacit admission by DC that their first attempt at brake design basically sucks????
Finally, the tech was very thorough and we made numerous drives to duplicate the problem. He actually hung out the door while I drove so he heard the same sound I did. He heard a clicking, clank in back and lo and behold, the sway bar link bushings are all dried out and gone (this is the plastic "dogbone" links which attach the swaybar to the frame.
New ones are on order. I will update them that the clank/clunk in front is back
I also checked the tech and he found no evidence of looseness or other wear in the front end.
Stay tuned, it will get interesting I am sure.
I wonder what the specific areas of concern are on DC vehicles?
November 21, 2001: Chrysler below average in durability studyWhile Chrysler (particularly the Plymouth brand) have done well in recent quality surveys, the group fared poorly in the 2001 long-term vehicle dependabilty study by J.D. Power. This study examines vehicles after four to five years and finds the number of problems. Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep, and Plymouth all had below-average ratings, with an average of more than 3.8 problems per vehicle (Volvo, Land Rover, Mazda, and Volkswagen were also below average). The top company, by a substantial margin, was Lexus. Cadillac, Honda, and Toyota all beat Mercedes and BMW.
The news was not all bad, as the Chrysler Cirrus topped out the entry midsize category (oddly, the Stratus and Breeze were not in the top three), the Jeep Cherokee made the top three entry-level SUVs, and the Dodge Ram Van/Wagon made the top three full size vans.
I already learned my lesson and next brake job my rig gets will be with Raybestos or Bendix USA made parts, not this third world junk from MExico that DC likes to use.
Ron35
I also have had a problem with a rattling sound in the back, sounds like tin hitting tin, the tech checked everything couldn't locate the noise, I thought it might be the heat shield for the exhaust, any thoughts on this? Everything else has been great on the Quad, just everyone knows when I coming down the road.
2000 Dakota Quad Cab
4.7ltr.
Auto tranny
3.55 open rear
Part time #NV231 transfer case
The transmission and transfer case take ATF+3 Type 7176 transmission fluid (a special blend for Chrysler vehicles). Refill for the transfer case is about 2.5 pints (2 quarts should cover that). The refill for fluid change in the tranny with filter (no converter removal) is about 6 quarts.
The differentials take 75W-90, GL-5 differential oil. Refill is about 3 pints and you must add 5 oz of friction modifier if you have limited slip.
I believe opinions and experience on this forum would indicate that synthetic fluids used in the above is just about a MUST if you tow; a good idea otherwise.
I too am experiencing the "second time around" rotor problems. Will probably throw in the towel and purchase aftermarket and be done with it! Happy motoring!!
PS: Speaking of refill capacities, this was about a 3 beer job.
got 34989 on the quad in 19 months,still purrs,still shines,and of course is still being paid for!
I will want to find that spark plug post soon..yah know the expensive ones bpeebles uses.It is really satisfying to see so many quads here in texas.
slr9589
Ron35
The fact the noise went away indicates to me the clutch is working as designed.
only when the ignition switch is on, and is easily accessed .
I was really hoping to avoid the dreaded ball joint problems I read about before purchasing, but it appears the curse may have found me. No big deal as long as it's fixed correctly under warranty and stays fixed. I must admit this does not inspire confidence, though.
Other than that and 12.5 mpg,(which is no surprise, so no biggie) truck is trouble free and still pleased with it. 12.5mpg is around town, long highway trips are more like 17.5 or 18mpg. (4.7 auto). Could probably reach 20+mpg if I could stand driving under 60 or 65 on the interstate..:)
Although I have not encounterd it, some folks have reported that the front (anti)swaybar bushings can become squeeky. It is apparently pretty easy to pull each one off, one at at a time, and apply the approprate rubber-grease then re-install. (two bolts on each one.)
Yes, my truck is easy to spot. Definatly one of a kind. So much so that it got keyed the other day. $1200 damage, now gotta get into the shop for repairs. Someone out there really not like firefighters that much? Boy am I pissed. Wish me luck on it coming out okay.
bpeebles, glad to see you too survived the big cuts at work.
Stabilizer Bar torque specs;
Frame Retainer Bolt= 80 ft-lbs
Frame Retainer Nut= 140 ft-lbs
Control Arm Retainer Bolts= 25 ft-lbs
Sorry to hear of the scratch in your truck.... Did I ever tell you that Goss Dodge actually closed their HUGE overhead door on the roof of my Dakota? They replaced the windshield and re-painted the entire roof. I even got some free oil changes.
I too, am glad to see you "made the cut" too. Over 500 people were not so lucky as we were.
Perhaps your favorite auto-parts store would have a small tube of rubber-safe grease. A little goes a LOONNG way.
Here's a good link to some even better advice for those who run an automatic dak.
I personally can vouch that a proper fluid change with the CORRECT fluid (in a certain instance)made the difference between a tranny that worked and one that was ready for the scrap heap.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html
Bpeebles, I remember your door accident, did they do a good paint job?
Let ya know how mine turns out. Know the guy at Primere Tire in Milton, so goona have them do it.
However, My experience with paint jobs is not in the initial appearance but instead in the longevity of the finish. By this, I mean that I have often seen paintjobs that look really nice but in a few years there are rust bubbles growing from UNDERNEATH the paint finish. By the time one sees this kind of failure... the metal allready has rusted badly UNDER the paint.
...All because of somone taking a "shortcut" before the application of the paint by not preparing the surface properly.
Unfortunatly, this has been my experience more often than not in paint repairs on several vehicles over the years.
Ron35
http://www.millervision.com/Mille-7b.jpg is a pic of valve installed on my truck. There is
plenty of room between valve and skidplate(s).
http://www.fumotovalve.com is the site that sells the valve.
at 35,000 my truck is slipping around corners on wet pavement....not snow or ice,just that east texas moisture.tread is low and i think it's time for a change.
what do you think of trying a michelin passenger tire say 70 width..i do not tow and use the quad mostly as a commuter vehicle...i like the mpg's with the stock tires but i'd like a little more longevity.
i am 2wd and there will be NO snow in my future for once in my life.
what do you think?
Call their 800# and order the F106N for about $20.00. You do not need the adapter by the way.
Bill in NY
In fact... it is well known that tires tend to get BETTER traction as the tread wears down. More rubber on the road means more traction. (Why do you think racecars have NO tread?)
We then move our discusison towards WHY you seem to be slipping around on wet pavement. Do you have LSD? ... this PROMOTES slipping around corners. Also... it is a known fact that after weeks of NO rain... the first few rainstorms brings the drippings and other nasties to the surface making the ashphult VERY slick. Or... perhaps you are just not accustomed to a RWD pickup truck with a V8 in it. Pickups have virtuallly no weight over the rear tires and test to "spin out" in corners easilly... This is just the nature of the beast.
As for you question about tires... Go to Tire Rack and do some research.
Generally... the longer-wearing tires have LESS traction while the sticky rubber compounds will wear faster. With that said.... Michelin is known for its LOONNG wearing rubber compounds.
The tread design is SECONDARY to the rubber compound used when it comes to non-snow traction.
(The NOISE of the tread compound is more important.)
The term "break in" has changed meanings over the years (Just like "Tune UP" actually MEANT your engine ran better after the process and now it is just a way for mechanics to steal a fools $$)
With that said;
(warning:I will be somwhat technical here)
A brand-new engine inherantly has many precesin-machined parts that have just been assembled for the first time. There is BOUND to be some excessive friction until the microscopic high-spots wear down a bit. The cylinder-walls and piston-rings need to "seat" to each other to create a good seal for a long, reliable life of the engine.
If you were to have actually READ your owners manual, you would have seen;
1) DC suggests NOT travilig at highway speeds for a specific amount of miles.
2) DC suggests "occasional bursts of FULL THROTTLE accelleration"
Item1 above SPECIFICALY trys to allow the exxesive heat generated by the "wearing of the hight spots" to be dissapated sufficently.
Item2 above SPECIFICLY seats the piston rings in the cylinders. It is the DECALLERATION after the accellation that actually seats the rings.
Using a super-slippery oil may HELP with item1 but will be detrimantal to the seating of the rings. As I said above... seating the rings makes for a long-running engine that does not burn oil(smoke)later in life. A good piston-cylinder seal also makes for a more efficent engine.
Thus... I vote for NOT using a synth oil for the break-in process for these reasons
1) I want to change the oil more often during break-in to remove the metal-particals from the assembly process and using a synth oil would be MUCH more expensive to change frequently
2)I want to take NO chances that my rings do not get seated properly because I expect to keep my truck well over 150K miles.
So ... Why even CONSIDER using synthetic oil during breakin since there is even the POSSIBILITY that it may be dedrimental.
YOur argument that the VIPER, CORVETTE, and some other vehicles come from the factory with synthtic has been put forth in the past.... Assume that the engines in these vehicles are SPECIALLY PREPARED and receive more-expensive machiening processes during manufacturing. wear-in of the parts and seating of the rings can be done at the factory but takes TIME and $$. The production schedules and cost of these vehicles reflect the extra care taken at the factory.