Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

henne

Hey everyone. i can hardly get on here anymore with work and life being so busy but I hope I will be on more now. I hope all is well with everyone. Could anyone give me an update on their milage with synth in the tranny and gear boxes. Amsoil has an atf+4 for the tranny and I am very interested in it, but I am hesitant with Dodges tranny reputation. Do I need to flush the tranny of all fluid or can I just drop the pan, change the filter and top off with synth?

Thanks and I hope everyone is having a great 2002 so far.

Robert

mopar67

as in rear axle, I recall you had a boatload of problems with it.
Still going ok?

henne

Things are great so far at 9000 miles since May. I just wish my ashtray would stop opening when I hit bumps. Its funny they had to replace the whole truck to fix my whiney hiney but it worked. Thanks for asking.

Robert

dodgetrukn

Well, wondering what the dealership is going to "tell me" and what I should expect or
not expect..Truck gets looked at 1/23 after fixing cracked headlight cover, and poor weatherstripping.Don't recall seeing any "real correct" fix for the concern-problem of the clunking on any postings- otherwise direct me to a post,thanks. Just making sure It's documented at the dealership, almost 11.5k miles !! Truck runs great otherwise! Ger

decentman4you

Well I didn't have chemistry in H.S. I took biology... Thanks for that update...

So in Reference to the above, If I Don't Want to put on the extra Miles, that is to Drive for over 30 minutes, to somewhere then..., Really dont have anywhere to go yet, still trying to meet a Lady - Hence the Screen-name :-)
1. Should I be changing the OIL more often? If so? more often than what is says in the manual?
2. Or is there some otherway around preserving My QC engine's Oil and/or engine-mechanicals
3. Yes I have ( seen the Vapor ) coming out of the tailpipe, Its my recollection that for Every Gallon of Gas that is Burned there is 1 Gallon of Water Blown out the tailpipe... Though on my nissan I have a lifetime warranty on the muffler through O'Reilly auto-parts and I thinks I have changed it maybe 3 times since '87' when I bought it.
OK, Hmmm is there a ... Don't say it... uh, Additive-Oil that I might want to add to the engine that would allow me to Keep the Oil in the engine, for the way that I drive my QC presently, untill I finally either meet a Lady or Find somewhere to go on a Regular Basis, Thus finally allowing the oil to do it's job as it's intended...

dodgetrukn

Dealership tells me there is no tsb for '01 quad cab steering pop noise I have when turning sharply on bumps!. Says if chrysler does not have a tsb specifically, there is none. I need help for a link for that!! http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/Index.cfm If you go here and type in NHTSA item number: SB616728, I see someone wrote it up.Help!

bookitty

James, ordinarily I try not to get involved in trying to build a relationship between a man and a woman. But, in this particular case, I will tell you of something that worked for a friend. He was a avid fisherman, so he placed this ad in a personal column.

"Wanted, a nice looking woman who enjoys fishing, cutting bait, baiting hooks, making lunch and owns a boat and motor. Please send photo of boat and motor."

James, this is your opportunity.

Bookitty

bpeebles

(decentman4you) Judging from how many questions you are asking (again)about changing your engineoil... you NEED to find a woman ;-)

If I Don't Want to put on the extra Miles, that is to Drive for over 30 minutes ...snip...

1. Should I be changing the OIL more often? More often than WHAT?
If so? more often than what is says in the manual? NO! I already said NEVER MORE OFTEN THAN EVERY 4000 MILES!
2. Or is there some otherway around preserving My QC engine's Oil and/or engine-mechanicals. YES...DRIVE YOUR TRUCK (have you ever heard "use it or lose it"? This is what it means)
Letting a vehicle sit around is the most sure way of having problems with it.

OK, Hmmm is there a ... Don't say it... uh, Additive-Oil that I might want to add to the engine that would allow me to Keep the Oil in the engine, Quality oils ALLREADY contain all the additives they need

bookitty

Bruce, you covered almost everything, but you still have not introduced him to a "nice girl." And I thought that you were our resident expert.

Bookitty

mopar67

At least when the dakota breaks, it will respond to repair (usually!)
With women, well, they don't always respond to repair. Sometimes they just don't respond!
SO focus on the dakota. WHen its paid off, then look for a woman.

Karen_S

With women, well, they don't always respond to repair. Sometimes they just don't respond!

Hey! I resemble that remark. ;-)

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

henne

Well after my whiney hiney buyback I now have 9000 miles on my 2nd quad. I did my 3rd oil change last night and what to my wondering eyes did appear but a small bit of oil leaking between the engine and the tranny/transfer case. My eyes bugged out and hit the skid plate and now my eyes are sore. haha Well I took it to the dealer first thing this morning and they put her on the lift and said "oooopsie", "Uh, Mr. Henne- when can you leave the truck with us so we can dig deeper and see if its really bad or not?", so now its going in on Tuesday. They put dye in the oil to try and help trace it. I think it was just the other day I was saying that I need to take it in to fix my ashtray to keep it from opening at every bump, boy did I put my foot in my mouth on that one ( They were very understanding and said they would try their best to help me out. I am very happy with the dealer's efforts in all of my wonderful dodge experiences

Well anyway, sorry its so long but I havent been on in awhile so I thought I would make up for the lost time.

Robert

ford_bii

Having a woman is like leasing a car. She's brand new at first, then, about 3 years later for some reason the "lease" expires. At that point you have to make a decision. You can either trade her in on a new one, possibly with bigger/better/more gadgets, or you can can just "buy" her. In my case I figured I had spent way too much additional time and money during the leasing period that I had to buy. What I didn't realize though is that the cost to buy after the lease was up was around .78 carats - EXPENSIVE! Maybe I should've traded her in... HA!

bookitty

Ben, I think you did it this time. You raised the wrath of Karen S. My mother told me that she was always amazed by the fact that no matter how big my feet grew that they still fit in my mouth. I wonder what she meant by that?

Bookitty

mopar67

but we all make decisions don't we?
Ah well. Live and learn.
Its not the first time I've incurred the wrath of a female.
Probably won't be the last either!

henne

My complete list for the dealer. I dont think they will like me, what ya think? haha

1. Oil leak between engine and transmission/transfer case
2. Ashtray opens when dash is bumped or driving over bumps
3. Front-end pops when making sharp turns
4. Engine idle gets real rough at 500rpm and below sometimes and will occasionally die and have to be restarted. Will also die sometimes when shifting from reverse to drive with vehicle at full stop (There is a TSB out on it I believe)
5. Engine diesels when under load/going up hills real bad with regular, a little with mid-grade and quiet with premium fuel (I have tested between 3 different fuel stations and it occurs with grades of fuel and not with brands of fuel)
6. When braking it is starting to shimmy and squeal. Also after braking, then letting off for a second and re-braking the pedal will go almost to the floor and I have to let off for a few seconds before pushing pedal again for the brakes to become valid (Its not the ABS, there is no pulsing its just real mushy)

Wish me luck.

Robert

ahasher

well, the court jesters of idle are retired now but I had to post this: IF your problem is on the 2000 4.7 PCM idle as we have had, the TSB info is:
CAUSE: FLASH MODULE
08194496 VEHICLE PERFORMANCE; COLD START
HESITATION - TSB 18-08-96
152 W40
1 4275086 LABEL - GENERAL INFORMATION
1 4669020 LABEL - AUTHORIZED SOFTWARE
FC: FM
PART # 4275086
and at the bottom:
26306 (CHK IDLE) FLASH MODULE 08194496 .5 TSB 18-01-01 FLASHED POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE.

Good luck either way..

Karen_S

Sheesh, if I got upset everytime a guy made a crack about women...I wouldn't be married to my guy for almost 30 years. He, unfortunately, suffers from a terminal case of Foot in Mouth disease. And even more unfortunate, our son has inherited it. :-)

To henne: Ouch...notta lotta fun, hunh? And disappointing that it's your second go round with this model. Hope everything is resolved on this one!

KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs

bookitty

Robert, I heard that there is a billboard in front of Daimler/Chrysler with your photo on it. Encircled in red with a diagonal line drawn through it. Good luck with your truck. You certainly deserve and warrant some good luck.

Bookitty

sunburn

What are the differential fluid capacities (front and rear) for a 2002 Dakota QC 4.7L 4x4? The axle ratio is 3.92. The rear axle is a 9.25", LSD. The owner's manual has no information on this subject. Thanks.

mopar67

rear axle 4.9 pints 75w90
5 oz of trac lok additive Note that the stuff is sold in 4 oz bottles I think so guess what, you buy TWO!

front axle 3.55 pints 80w90

Courtesy of the BOB.

waynesan

Henne's #1415 post: " Engine diesels when under load/going up hills...." describes the noise I'm experiencing. It reminds me of the sound of an engine with loose valve lifters. Can anyone please advise me as to the cause and what is the cure? (01 Dak 4WD Auto) Thank you.

mopar67

sunburn

Thanks for the diff fluid capacities mopar67. I'll make a note of them in my owner's manual.

henne

Engine has a rear main seal leak and it should be finished tomorrow. They have to pull the tranny to fix it. (Looks like im gonna buy an extended warranty since Things usually get worse once the techs mess with things, hopefully the dealer will deal on this since I have had such bad luck). The clatter noise is being addressed by dodge and they are working on a service flash upgrade per my service manager . The other issues are being addressed and I will see what happens when the time comes. Some of you got the rough idle flash updates on the 4.7 and said it made a difference, is this still true? My truck has 9000 miles and has the latest firmware from the factory, at present there are no updates newer than what I already have and I still have rough idle and stalling. Your info would be helpful in my quest for sanity. LOL...

Robert

mopar67

and generally being a pain in the you know what to your dealer, I dunno henne.
What I find shocking is the utter lack of urgency I have witnessed in the area of service. Seems like once you drive off the lot, its goodbye charlie.
Ahahser had to pound and pound and pound to get his PCM updated. Good news is, and I had this done also, is that it works. It worked then and it works as I type this. My rig runs like a fuel injected vehicle should, not like a putt putt lawn boy or something. Now thats not too much to ask after forking over mucho dinero right?
Hell, camp out on their doorstep, call the service manager every hour on the hour. www.4adodge.com has an email link on there I think, write them an email. Believe it or not, they responded to my complaint about the lousy rotors and when I called for an appoiintment, the service manager knew all about my tirade!
Did I get lucky? Dunno....but I got results that way.

ahasher

as mopar67 said.. the PCM flash for the idle worked and had been great even since, BUT it was a royal PAIN to get a response from my dealer on the idle issue. I got the "thats normal" or "i dont see anything on it, check back in a month". I DID THE RESEARCH and found the reference. While my dealers service manager actually is a good guy and has treated me well, their interest in performance or quality of ride problems seems low.. like we are bothering them with small things.
My point? "thats normal' and "do YOUR homework, and check back in LESS than a month".... nothing beats a well educated and prepared owner.. keep your cool but dont let up..
ok ok.. my .02 worth.. and thanks for holding my beer.

henne

Well as of Monday it will have been in the shop for one full week. They keep finding that they need more parts. Hopefully Monday they said.

Robert

henne

Well I finally got the truck back and of course it still needs more parts. I have to bring it back for a quick how da ya do in a few weeks for the other stuff like the ashtray, new wheel (they gashed it on the lift) and brake pads are on back order. (I bet beacause they have to put on at least 2 sets per vehicle) Hard to keep up with the demand LOL...

Robert

saskquad

Does anyone know if the electric rad fan will cut in at high engine or rad temp or is it strictly for the a/c ? It would be nice to know . Thanks

mopar67

The electric fan funtions when AC is used except during cold temperatures then it does not kick in.
I do not know if it will come on during extremely high temps; it would seem to me that the mechanical fan has plenty of oooomph to do the job.

ron35

I have a 2K Dak with bucket seats and a power driver's seat. The plastic molding on the side of the driver's seat, next to the door, appears to have separated from the seat. Has anyone had any problems with this and should it be covered under warranty. Appreciate any input.

mopar67

Information from a trade magazine which I suscribe to offers this information.

Exide was chosen by SEARS in 1994 to manufacture the Die Hard line of batteries, ending a 60+ year agreement with Johnson controls. Following admission of Exide that it engaged in fraud (regarding the false test data Exide supplied Sears regarding test results) Sears ended the ralationship in 1999 and has resumed using Johnson Controls as the supplier for Diehard batteries.

To Sears..........GOOD choice.......finally! ALl they had to do was ask Kmart how many exide batteries we replaced and presto its a no brainer to stay with JOhnson Controls!.

sunburn

Left work tonight and when I pulled forward and turned out of the parking space, the driveline started to bind up on my 2002 QC 4x4. When I looked at the 4WD switch it was in 2WD, same as it has been for the past few weeks. I rolled forward about 30 ft and made a left turn. Still binding. I straightened out and cycled the switch between 2Wd and 4WD while driving forward slowly. After about 3 cycles there was a clunk, and it went back to 2WD. I haven't a clue how it got into 4WD. Anyone else with the electronic shift transfer case have any strange problems?

ford_bii

I've suspected that something like this may have been occurring for a LONG time. There are times when I turn and the front wheels feel as though they are under torque. Many a time have I glanced down at the 4wd knob to make sure the truck wasn't in 4wd.

I remember another person posting here quite a few months ago about them feeling the same "torque steer". I wonder if the transfer case is shifting in and out of 4wd on its own.

Has anybody else felt this same thing on their '01+ dakota?

bpeebles

(saskquad) Yes... the electric fan will be enabled at high coolant temps. According to the factory shop manual.. on=220F(104C) off=216F(102C)

This is in ADDITION to its programming for the AC system.

bpeebles

(ford_bii) I am REAL GLAD that I do not have that silly electric xfer case. (I have the lever on the floor)

I beleive there was a TSB about the electronic xfer case. Perhaps you should look into the TSB website about this.

saskquad

Thanks bpeebles and mopar67 for your info. 220 F cut in is getting pretty hot but I guess it might save the engine just before it hits that scary 230+ temp . I wonder what these aluminum heads can take before they warp?
I was tempted to remove the viscous drive fan for the winter to help keep heat in and maybe squeak out a little better gas mileage.I removed the fan on my van last winter and the noise reduction and quicker warmup was great especially in the first ten minutes of operation.
Most of my driving is highway with no stop and go city , so air flow isn't a big problem.

mtrialsm

I'm confused,,,people recommend the AutoLite 3923
or the Bosch 4418.
I did a search on the AutoLite web site for my
truck,2001 Dakota,4.7,etc,, comes back with
these plugs; AP5524(platnum) or 5224 copper.
what is a 3923? Did I get the manufacture wrong?
mick

pattyjo2

ON OCCASION, HOWEVER MORE RESENTLY, I GET THIS SULFER, ROTTEN EGG ODER FROM MY EXHAUST.THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SOME TIME.OF COURCE THE DEALER STATES THIS IS NORMAL AND THEY CANT FIND A PROBLEM. CAN ANYONE SHED SOME LIGHT.2001 QUAD CAB, 7500 MILES, 3.9 V6

iowabigguy

mtrialsm. I think the 4418 and the 3923 are for the 5.2l v8. The correct plug for the 4.7l v8 is the 5224 copper. The other plugs might fit and work but they are not the correct replacement. Rick

iowabigguy

Do you use the same brand gas all the time? If so try another brand. I seem to recall when you got that smell on a GM product in the "old" days it was a sign the catalyst had failed. Will the dealer check to see if the catalytic converter will pass an emissions check? Rick

bpeebles

BOSCH 4418 is for 4.7L!

NOT for any of the ol' 1960s-based engines.

Details;
When It came time for my 4.7L to get new plugs, I did a lot of research. I searched over 5000 posts
across 5 different websites. Although folks have tried many different sparkplugs... by far, the BOSCH 4418 was found to be best for the 4.7L V8.

You may do your own research if you wish... if you find somthing different, please post your findings here for all to see.

iowabigguy

I normally respect your opinion but you are WRONG!!!
I just got off the Bosch web site. The 4418 was listed for both the 5.2 and the 5.9 engines. According to their site there is no Bosch plug recommended for the 2000 4.7l engine! I don't care what the Dakota web sites say work. Bosch may have invented the spark plug but "their" web site says they haven't invented one for the 4.7 yet. Rick

indychapell

It seems to me that I have read in past posts about people experiencing a roaring noise in the engine compartment. It was explained that it was from the fan clutch not disengaging. I also have had this same thing happen to me. But the other day it happened, but this time it roared for a long,long time. I headed for my dealer so I could get a opinion from them. As you might expect just as I turned in it quit. It has not happened since, but my engine is very noisy when idling, and I swear I hear the blade hitting something when you rev the engine a little. Its almost like something is loose, or the blade is flexing. Has anyone else had this same thing happen.

mopar67

My own extensive research (based on 20 years of driving several different vehicles) leads me to the Autolite corner of this debate. I always had excellent results using their "power tip" plug (BTW invented by autolite)in mopars from slant sixes, to four bangers, to 440, 383, 340, 360 and 318 v-8s....yes those engines are "old tech" but when you get right down to it, the internal combustion engine itself is "old tech".
Sure, we're not using stromberg upgraft or webber side draft carbs and the sparks come from advanced coil on plug setups, but the premise is pretty much the same. Compress air, add measureed amt of fuel, ignite a spark at a predetermined time, and BOOM! Explosion, piston moves con rod, which turns a crankshaft....et cetera.

Autolites site and catalog list the 5224 as the correct plug gapped at .040 for the 4.7L engine.

iowabigguy

mopar67, I agree. I am not an expert in this field, I rely on manufacturer web sites to get my "expert" data. I'm sure there are Dakota users who are trying spark plugs that are listed for other application that work! However not being an expert I assume that the vehicle and spark plug manufacturers are providing a product that will provide reliable service in my Dakota in everyday use. Rick

ron35

iowabigguy - I concur with the post made by bpeebles concerning the Bosch +4 sparkplugs. I have done the same research, which includes corresponding with numerous people who have used the +4's in their 4.7's for extensive periods with great success. As far as the application guide by Bosch is concerned, this is simply a case of a manufacturer not doing the proper update. If you search that application guide for a Jeep Gran Cherokee with a 4.7 you will see that the applicable +4 plug is a 4418. This is the same exact 4.7 that we have in our Dakota's. The proof of the puddin is in the pie; I'm installing the +4 4418's when my tuneup is due. If it has worked well for other 4.7 Dak owner's there is a very good chance it will work for me.

Ron35

iowabigguy

ron35. And I stand by what I said. Based on the manufacturers web site they had no listing. If they have not updated their applications I have no control over the fact. If the 4418 is proper for the application then only half of what bpeebles stated was correct. You will note he said the 4418 was not for the 60's based engines which according to Boschs web site is incorrect.

"#1442 of 1447 4.7V8 spark plugs by bpeebles Feb 07, 2002 (05:06 pm)
BOSCH 4418 is for 4.7L!

NOT for any of the ol' 1960s-based engines."

The original question in message 1438 was

"I'm confused,,,people recommend the AutoLite 3923
or the Bosch 4418.
I did a search on the AutoLite web site for my
truck,2001 Dakota,4.7,etc,, comes back with
these plugs; AP5524(platnum) or 5224 copper.
what is a 3923? Did I get the manufacture wrong?"

The correct Autolite replacement plug according to the Autolite web site is the 5224 copper, not the 3923. I stand by my reply based on the manufacturers data on their web site. If the 4418 is correct for the 4.7l thats Boschs error, not mine. ;-) Rick

henne

Well I just changed the fluid in the rearend to 75-140 Amsoil synth as recomended by the manual (just not their synth) and when I opened the plug it started draining out. Isnt the level supposed to be like a knuckle or so down? Also I have never had a 4x4 so this may be a dumb question so here it goes - Is there a dip stick to check the level of the transfer case fluid? How do you change the fluid and is it the same fluid as the tranny? After loosing a tranny in a 96 Dakota, a rearend in a 2000 Dakota and rear main seal in a 2001 Dakota and all were less than 22k miles I am going with Amsoil synth in every thing I can get it into! I have always been shy of fluids other than recomended by the manufacturer but after all this trouble playing by the rules its time to use what I think is best from my own research.

So far I have Amsoil 5w30 in the engine and 75-140 in the rear. I have the 75-90 for the front diff and atf+4 approved Amsoil for the tranny still to go and am awaiting the knowledge of you guys on the transfer case.

Also is there an easy way to put the fluid in the front diff? There isnt much clearance for funnel and bottle.

Thanks for any answers in advance.

Robert