Better keep a look out for what I found to be the problem on my truck. Although the roaring stopped, still had a noise. Well yesterday it seemed to be getting worse, and when I popped the hood, I noticed the fan blade seemed to be turning funny. After shutting off the engine, I found the blade to be very loose. Never had this happen before. Has anyone else found this same problem?
So many fluids, so little time.... There is no dipstick for the transfer case and it takes the same ATF as the transmission. there are two plugs on the back, One high and one low, remove those for draining/filling. Fill to the fluild just starts coming out of the top hole, when the truck is on a level surface. The easiest and least messy way I have found to change the diff. fluids is a small, inexpensive transfer pump. Most auto parts stores will have them, but the one I found that works best is from a marina, it'll screw onto the quart bottles and have a long enough tube to reach into the diff as you pump in the fluid. As with the transfer case, both diffs should be filled to the point were the fluid just starts running out, when on a level surface. On the rear, if you have the limited-slip, be sure to include the additive available from the dealer. You will need 5oz, and of course the bottles are 4oz each. What planning Mopar had.
When I suggested that the 4418 was not for the 1960's based engines... I was trying to say that the 4418 is not the best choice for the 1960s based engines.... not that it was not a suitable plug. I trust that misunderstanding is now cleared up.
The BOSH 4418 is the best choice for the 4.7LV8 hemi. (unless you can afford the New iridium spark plugs at $8-$10 each)
Not only have the 4418 plugs shown to be excellent performers in the 4.7L. They are BOSCH plugs. This means that they have nickle plating on the threads, better insulator composition and long-life platinum tip. All of these add up to match the design-phelosiphy of the 4.7L engine. (long operating life)
The 4418 sparkplugs will STILL BE PERFORMING LIKE NEW when lesser plugs will need to be replaced. If you have ever dealt with aluminum heads before... you will appreceate the nickle plated threads when it comes time to REMOVE your BOSCH sparkplugs. (I have had lesser sparkplugs break off in the head during removal... it was not a fun time telling my wife that her car had suddenly become a boat-ancher)
My idea of a good sparkplug is one with a long life with little performance degradation that is REMOVABLE when the time comes. (I DO NOT WANT TO BE REPLACING PLUGS NOR THE HEADS ANYTIME SOON)
I don't have my copy of the BOB with me, but in my maintainance log I have the following capacities, they are approximate: Front diff: 1.75 qt. Rear diff: 2.5 Qt Man trans: 2.5 Qt Transfer case: 1.25
I just passed 12000 miles on my 2001 2wd Quad. When I called my local 5-star Dodge dealer the service rep told me that the schedule calls for change engine oil, change rear axle fluid, rotate tires, and change the transmission fluid. I didn't recall seeing the transmission change in my manual so I went back and double checked. My manual doesn't mention the transmission fluid change at all until 30000. Has this happened to anyone else? Do they change required maintenance schedule very often? I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to have the fluid changed but is it necessary? Thanks in advance for any input you might be able to give me!
Just looked at service manual, and you must have looked at schedual A, instead of B. A does say trany fluid change at 30000, B says 12000. Re-check your book.
I HAVE THE TITLE as of August 2000 so now what? At least when the dakota breaks, it will respond to repair (usually!) With women, well, they don't always respond to repair. Sometimes they just don't respond! SO focus on the dakota. WHen its paid off, then look for a woman I HAVE THE TITLE as of August 2000, so now what, any advice? sorry to be repeatous :-) or... Presently I am a bus driver, driving the Metro bus's in Houston TX and its only 3.6 miles to work....
I double checked my owners manual and I was looking at sched b. Maybe my owners manual is outdated. It does say copyright 2000 inside front cover and also says third edition on back cover. My Quad Cab was built in March 2001. The maintenance schedule A doesn't show a transmission fluid change until 100000 miles. You mentioned service manual in your previous message, is this different from the standard owners manual? If so, I wonder why such a big difference between the two manuals? Thanks for your information!
"The maintenance schedule A doesn't show a transmission fluid change until 100000 miles." Based on your input I think you must have the 5.9L V8. The trans for the 5.9 is old technology. The transmission others are quoting the maintenance schedule is for is the 4.7L HiTech transmission which has very expensive drain intervals on shorter schedule, don't remember if A or B is the shorter and I don't have access to the manual right now. Another reason I got the 5 speed manual. Rick
This maintenance schedule has really got me confused. I have the 2001 4.7L V8 with automatic transmission. The maintenance schedules in my owner's manual lists the same intervals for all engine types(3.9, 4.7, 5.9). The 3.9 and 5.9 recommends a fluid change, filter change and adjust bands, while the 4.7 recommends a fluid change and change sump filter. Thanks for your input!
The 2001 manual is different than the 2000. Now for 2001 the 4.7 auto tranny gets the new ATF+4 fluid and according to my service manager that is the reason for the difference. He said the new ATF+4 is a much better formula so the interval is longer. He also said that people with the older trannys can extend too when a flush is done to get the +3 out and the +4 in.
Well I put Amsoil 5w30 in 3 1/2 weeks ago and mileage went up .3mpg. I changed my rear diff 2 weeks ago with Amsoil 75-140 and my mileage went up another .9 to total 1.2mpg increase. Now I am getting 16.5 average instead of 15.3mpg. I always average between 15.1 & 15.4 but now after 5 fillups I am getting between 16.4 and 16.7. I will hopefully change my front diff fluid with Amsoil 75-90 synth and my tranny and transfer case with the Amsoil ATF+4 this this weekend. Maybe Ill get another increase after those. I was so amazed to see my avg mpg up to 20mpg on the interstate. I have never seen anything over 17 avg mpg on this truck or my 2000 buy back.
Surprisingly my computer is accurate to within .2mpg every time. I still check my numbers manually but the computers is almost always dead on.
On my 2002 QC, 4.7L auto, the transmission service interval, according to the owner's manual, is 100,000 miles for schedule A and 30,000 miles for schedule B. Based on previous comments, it sounds like it changed in 2001.
I have a 3.92 rearend and according to my 2001 manual it says if you are doing alot of towing to change the rear to 75-140 synthetic. I states that the front is 75-90.
Both of the lenses on my factory foglights are cracked, the service dept. told me you can't replace the lenses you have to replace the whole unit at the cost of $135.00. Does anyone know if this is true. If so I will up-grade to PIAA 510's.
I should have been more specific in my posting. I have a 2000 quad. with a 4.7 auto. The info I was giving was for my year truck. Sounds like changes were made with the 2001 model.
Does anybody know the allen size for the drain/fill plugs on the transfer case? I was under today looking at what I have ahead of me tomorrow and found the plugs to be allens.
If anyone can answer tonight or early in the morning I can get it at the store tomorrow before the wife leaves with her car as my truck isnt drivable in the pieces its in ))
The check engine light on my 2002 QC came on today. Is there any way to get the OBDII code out without taking it to the dealer? My old Toyota would output the failure code after you put a jumper wire between two connectors and turned on the ignition key. Just wondering if their was a similar trick for the Dakota.
Not too sure what DC used nowadays, but on old IH pickups, you could use a 3/8 rachet in there and undo the plug to the tranny and rear axle. I might be wrong, but I would bet those drain plugs are metric now.
Well I tried a few different allens and could not come up with the right one. If anybody gets a chance to see what size I need it would be greatly appreciated.
From reading all the old posts before I purchased my Quad Cab back in November, it appeared that the consensus was Mobil 1 synthetic. I will be making the switch before too long and just wanted to revisit the subject myself. Is Mobil 1 really that much better than the other major brands synthetics (Castrol, Valvoline etc.). How bout Amsoil?
Well my truck has had a stumbling and dying problem. And boy did it do it today. 4.7, auto, 3.92 and 4x4. I pulled out onto the road (Right on red) with plenty of room and my truck stumbled and died. One car almost hit me, just about 8 inches or so to spare and the car behind him ended up over the curb and over some grass into a parking lot. It took a coulple of tries to get it restarted and i was scared and ticked off. The stumbling is one of my many complaints and there is no fix yet they say. Also the popping in the frontt end is back and so is the popping/grinding noise going over speed bumps and dips. And when they pulled the tranny to repair the rear main seal leak on the engine and put it back on it sometimes shifts real hard and sometimes wont shift out of first until about 5000rpm. Dodge is litterally going to be the death of me. haha Well I love the concept of the truck but this is my 3rd Dakota in a row with what I consider recurrent/non-answerable/annoying problems. Im about to pull what little hair out I have left.
Mine is back in the shop partly for scheduled maintenance partly for the rough shifting tranny, which by now, shifts so hard into 3rd its banging hard on the rear axle. I envision it taking out the whole rear end one of these days. Its been in intensive care since last Friday. At least the Corolla I got to drive works. But the climate control on it is goofy and the cc lever is hidden, out of sight.....but thats another story. Next, is the mysterious clank in the front end then happens each time I use the brakes. I am getting the feeling that DC does not want us to use the brakes which is why they made 'em so cheap in the first place. I looked into my crystal ball and came to the conclusion that I do not have deep enough pockets to fix this truck once the warranty runs out. I feel for ya.....all in all, its been quite frustrating to say the least. Oh well, I did a blue book estimate courtesy of Edmunds and all I need to do next is call the bank and find out what the payoff is and see just how far apart I am. Then the for sale sign goes up if the numbers are close and I think I'll just get a used vehicle of some sort and do away with monthly payments. Yes, it may give me problems but at least I will have the title and NO payments. Sad to say the last two years with this vehicle have been pretty onery. I expected more, a lot more than what I got. Too bad DC just can't seem to get its act together. There really are some nice features on the Dak. Its just a shame I cannot have the truck for a long enough stretch to enjoy it. Good luck.
Well my service manager just called me to let me know that my brake pads are still on back order and that they were the new 2nd edition pads that should last longer, be quiter and less dust.
So if you are having brake pad issues, I would inquire about it to your service manager.
I wish you were wrong, but you have been right on target. I echo your sentiments about Dodge failing my expectations. Less than a year ownership my odometer at 26K. I also am contemplating giving it up. My wife refuses to drive my vechicle, hates the brakes!!
Sad part is having to tell everyone that asks (How do you like your truck?) I tell them with all honesty I don't. I pull out all the repair orders and the shock that comes from everyone is not good for D/C.
I belong to a large hunt club with everyone a 4x4 truck owner. Each trip to the woods my guys want to know what new problem my Dodge is having.
I just received another survey from D/C hoping my Dodge is meeting my expectations and how is my service department or lack of service.
I sent them my dissertation and asked for an invitation to their next stockholders meeting. I would love to speak to them. But unfortunately I have come to the conclusion that profits supersede quality.
Do I know trucks? You betcha! Work for a large Federal agency and we order thousands every year. Every State and every County were located and we are in the field and we know what are the good, bad and ugly. I do not know how to fix them but I sure have driven everything that is out there.
and before we even load up and head out, the first question is......what is wrong with your dak now? Kinda embarassing ain't it? Yes, I wish I was wrong too. Boy do I wish I was wrong on this. But alas, its true. Going on a week now and still no Dak....Funny, I thought buying a new truck was supposed to cut down on the number of days in the shop. How wrong I was!
People have complimented the truck everywhere I go. THey ask would I recommend one. I don't say yes or no, I just recite the list of problems and let the individual decide for him/herself....yes, a couple of women stopped me one day and wanted to know ALL about the truck. They were driving a Honda and I expect they will continue to do so after what I told them....sad part I never got a date for my pains! ha ha.
Edmunds TMV indicates my rig is worth $16,181 as it sits. I printed out the ready made for sale sign, I will pencil in some contact information and tomorrow, I will take them down to the dealer and tape them to the windows so I can advertise when I drive.....uh oh! There's the catch....I actually have to be DRIVING it in order for others to see the for sale sign! Given the recent events, that might be tricky. I don't really care if I owe more than its worth at this point I want to be rid of it and move on to something else. As I said, all the work so far has been on DC's tab and believe me, it is well over 1500 bucks if a person had to pay out of his pocket. I shudder to think what will happen at 40k, 50k, 60K etc. Bpeebles mentions the cost to service the tranny and the 30K intervals on that. I am sure its not cheap so cost of ownership, based on past track record is surely to rise beyond my desire to pay for it.
I forgot to mention that my service manager said he is expecting a new flash this week. I am scheduled to go in to finish my issues when it comes out. I will let everyone know what info I can get out of him.
Has anyone used AMSOIL gear lubricants in a Dakota limited slip diff without using any additional friction modifiers? AMSOIL gear lubes already have a friction modifier in them and I was wondering if was sufficient for Dakota limited slip diffs or is more needed?. I am planning on switching over this spring and just putting together my shopping list.
I switched my rear diff about a month ago to Amsoil 75-140 and I did not add any friction modifier and yes I do have the lsd. I asked around and a few guys here locally with a Dakota Quad did the same with no chatter. I also spoke with Amsoil and they said that it exceeded the friction modifier requirments for the Dakota lsd.
I asked a few questions to Mobil and they answered with some very interesting info. If anyone is interested please email me at robh2@aol.com and I will be happy to reply with the email and the link to an interesting site.
Ok, finally got the truck back after over a week in the shop. I learned that the corolla is nice, but I did not come to terms with th funky cc switch hitting my knee every time I turned the wheel. Second, to get full heat flow to the floor, one must close the outside panel vents....tsk tsk.....Toyota should know better. Anyway, coolnant was changed, tires rotated, and the motor got 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5W30 + an NAPA (aka WIX) filter. Good news is they finally fixed two vexing issues, one the slam shift of the 45RFE (a flash to the TCM did the trick, it no longer slams on the 2-3 upshift whether I accelerate hard or gently) and the clunk in the front end is gone. Issue there was (or so I am told) that the bolt hole threads for the caliper bolts had been stripped out somehow. Not too certain if it was done on the line or at the dealer in the past when they replaced rotors etc...........so they drilled out the hole(s), slapped a heli coil in there and now the front end is a quiet as a church mouse. There is SOME warpage to the rotors, I am not at all surprised, it's been about 7,500 since the last go around on that. Now that I have tax check (gee thanks uncle same for giving back some of MY money!) in hand, I will secure aftermarket units and be done with that part once and for all.
So far so good........BTW I owe more on the thing that I can get for it on the open market so for now I will have to trudge along and keep fingers crossed that nothing else breaks.
Not sure exactly where they put it or if your still under warranty but I would be unhappy if the fix to a warrany covered item was drill out and put in a heli coil. Even paying for it I would be unhappy unless it was a difference of hundreds of dollars. Replace with new, not rig it.
If helicoils are installed correctly (not hard to do) they will provide better threads than the original hole. Don't worry if the calipers were repaired w/heligoils.
Ok, I hear people talk a lot about 'flashing.' I've got a 2002 CC Dak V6. How do I find out if there's another flash for the PCM? Would appreciate any info I can get on this.
I thought this was pretty interesting and possibly very helpful for the Dakotas also. Kinda long but I feel worth the read. And thanks to Arkie6 for the time it took to do this.
Robert
#632 of 635 Tundra driveline "thump" by arkie6 Feb 26, 2002 (09:35 pm)
On the vast majority of Tundras that experience the thump or bump in the rear when you come to an abrupt stop, it is due to binding in the driveshaft slip yoke. When you come to an abrupt stop, the rear of the truck rises up and elongates the driveshaft (via the slip yoke) in the process. Once you come to a stop, the back of the truck settles back down and the driveshaft compresses. If the truck is in gear, there will be some rotational torque applied to the driveshaft even when stopped. This rotational torque tends to increase the sliding friction in the slip yoke. If the slip yoke is not really well lubricated or the machining is not perfect, the slip yoke will tend to bind up and not compress. Then after you come to a stop, the transmission will downshift. During the downshift, the torque on the driveshaft is released which reduces the friction in the slip yoke and it will compress rather abruptly. This is the "thump" or "bump in the rear" that you are likely feeling. As a test to comfirm, shift the transmission to nuetral before coming to an abrupt stop. If you don't get the "thump" when you do this, but you do get it when the transmission is in drive, then it is very likely binding in the slip yoke.
Ok, now that you have determined that it is binding in the slip yoke, you can either fix it yourself or convince your dealer to do it. Dealers don't make much money on warranty repairs unless parts are replaced, so they often may opt to replace the entire driveshaft assembly, which is fine as long as they hand lube the slip yoke with some good quality grease. But replacement of the driveshaft is typically not necessary. The slip yoke just needs to be greased properly, particulary on the 4x4s. 4x4s have the slip yoke at the back of the driveshaft where it connects to the rear end pinion shaft. The 4x4 driveshaft uses 4-bolt flanges at the rear end as well as at the transfer case output shaft. The 4x2 on the other hand has the slip yoke in the tailshaft of the transmission and as far as I know (I have a 4x4) is lubricated by the transmission fluid. I have heard of 4x2s with the thump, but most problems are with the 4x4s. The 4x2s may benefit from had greasing the slip yoke splines, but I have not confirmed this.
The 4x4 driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease; however, it is not very effective at getting grease at the point where the friction is taking place. There is a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much if any grease was in there to begin with. The splines and seal are very tight and you may encounter significant resistance on the grease gun while grease is migrating along the splines. I've had my driveshaft apart examining the slip yoke and you have two options to properly grease the splines. One is to drop the rear driveshaft where it attaches to the rear end via the 4 bolts (always match-mark the two flanges to ensure you put them back in the same position - also, turn the bolts, not the nuts since the nuts have a high friction base flange to resist turning) and pull the slip yoke apart (again, match mark both halves of the slip yoke to ensure they go back together in the same relative position - the splines do have a wide spline to prevent mismatch; however, it is hard to see which one it is especially with grease on them and it's a pain trying to find just the right spot where they will slip together - match-marking the two halves before disassembly makes this much easier). Once the slip yoke is apart is then readily apparent why putting 5 or 10 shots of grease in the zerk fitting won't do any good. You can then hand lube the splines with a good quality grease. I would clean out as much of the existing grease as possible, but as long as you use a lithum base grease there should be no compatibility problems. Toyota recommends a lithium base NLGI#2 chassis grease for this. I recommend a lithium base molybdenum disulfide (moly) NLGI#2 chassis grease for this, the same grease that Toyota recommends for the double cardon joint. Once you've got everything greased up good, slide the yoke halves back together using the match marks to guide you then put the both flanges together, again using the match marks as a guide, install the bolts and nuts and torque. I think the torque is about 40 ft-lbs, but I don't have my manual handy at the moment. Torque from the bolt head, not the nut since the nut has a high friction base. After it is all together, shoot about 5-10 strokes of grease in the zerk fitting for "reserve", but you do not want it completely full as this will limit compression of the slip yoke.
If all that is a little more than you want to tackle, here is an easier way that is probably just about as effective. Take your grease gun loaded with lithum base moly chassis grease and start pumping grease in the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter significant resistance on the grease gun handle and will likely note that the slip yoke is expanding. Slowly add grease at this point. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about 5-10 more strokes unless you see grease coming around the seal, then stop. Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will tend to compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed, if a tablespoon or so of grease doesn't come out, then gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Once the excess grease is out, re-install the zerk, clean up the mess, and you are good to go.
This was known as the "arkie6 fix" over at Tundrasolutions and it resolved many of the "thump" problems people were experiencing, mine included. I initially used the straight lithum base chassis grease on the slip yoke and I started getting a hint of "thump" after about 5,000 miles. I subsequently put in the lithium base moly (an extreme pressure additive) grease and haven't had any hint of "thump" in 15,000+ miles. My truck (2000 Tundra 4x4) now has 28,000+ miles and is "thump" free.
this involves an update to the PCM or TCM depending on what is required. Because it can affect emissions levels, its not something that manufactures do lightly. For instance it took several weeks for DC to get the go ahead from the EPA to apply a flash to my PCM to cure stalling on cold starts. SOmetimes, like with my 45RFE, a flash is done to enhance shifting of the xmission or to rectify a problem. So, it depends on what is needed. I had to literally print out the TSB on the 45RFE and take it to the dealer to have them update the TCM so now I don't get the "slam" on the 2-3 upshift. Personally, I'd rather go back to a 727 which needed neither a computer to tell it how to shift nor some expensive fluid and filter change to keep it going. ANd it was a bulletproof design.
I have a 94 dak 2wd with 150000 miles on it. I noticed that the pinion seal I believe it is called started leaking. I would like to fix it myself and would like some info on doing so. My chiltons manual says to use a torque wrench to measure torque required to take the bolt off that holds the yoke, and when replacing to use same amount of torque. Someone also told me that I have to replace some kind of crush bearing or something like that. Any help is appreciated.
I have a 2000 QC, 4.7L, 4X4, AT with 30,000 miles and need to get my transmission serviced. My owner’s manual says I should have the 45RFE tranny service (Maint Sched A) performed at 30,000 mile intervals. I have heard that the owner’s manuals for the ’01 and ’02 models state that the same (I think) 45RFE tranny now uses ATF+4 and that the service interval (Maint Sched A) is 100,000 miles instead of 30,000. Can anybody out there confirm if this is true for the ‘01 and ‘02 models? If so, can I have the ATF+3 in my ’00 changed out and replaced with ATF+4 and increase the service interval to 100,000 miles?
I talked to two different local dealers about this and got two different stories naturally. Dealer #1 says they use ATF+4 in all 45RFE transmissions now, regardless of model year. BUT, they do not do a complete transmission flush because the pressure required to perform the flush is much higher than normal operating pressures and can damage the torque converter. So, they only drain what is in the pan (about half of total in the tranny?), change the two filters, and top it off with ATF+4. They do not recommend extending the interval to anything greater than the original 30,000 miles stated in the owner’s manual for the ’00 trucks. Not what I wanted to hear.
Dealer #2 says that they do not want to mix ATF+3 and ATF+4 together- they would prefer to stay with whatever was in there from the factory. Also, they won’t do the complete system flush either. But there reasoning is that they don’t want to “disturb” the particles that have settled out in the torque converter, but would rather just leave them alone. Is this a bunch of BS or what?
Dodge has a TSB regarding the use of ATF+4 in older 45RFE transmissions. If I recall correctly, it states that ATF+4 can be used in older 45RFE transmissions that required ATF+3 originally. However, I think it stated that the service interval should remain at the ATF+3 intervals (30K miles for schedule A). One would think that if you flushed out all the old ATF+3 and replaced it with ATF+4, that you could go longer intervals between services, but Dodge says no. If there haven't been any design changes to the 45RFE between the '00 and '01 model years that would allow the longer service intervals, I wouldn't see why you couldn't. I would be nice to have a technical explanation from Dodge as to why you can't extend the service interval. Unfortunately, most dealer service people probably don't have good explanations.
As far as the transmission flush is concerned, I really can't say. I've only had one done once (and at 120K+ miles at that). It hasn't caused any noticable problems. My own philosophy would be to do it at the first service interval and then at every other service interval after that, unless you are doing some serious towing or other severe duty usage.
My 2000 4x4 Quad 4.7 has in the last few thousand miles developed a rotten egg smell that is usually noticed after I drive a few miles (or more). I first noticed it when I regularly stop to open a gate after driving about 10 miles from work. The 4.7 has about 65,000 miles plus. I haven't taken it to a shop yet because I sort of like to have a little prior knowledge if possible before I lay myself on the mercy of the mechanics.
Comments
There is no dipstick for the transfer case and it takes the same ATF as the transmission. there are two plugs on the back, One high and one low, remove those for draining/filling. Fill to the fluild just starts coming out of the top hole, when the truck is on a level surface.
The easiest and least messy way I have found to change the diff. fluids is a small, inexpensive transfer pump. Most auto parts stores will have them, but the one I found that works best is from a marina, it'll screw onto the quart bottles and have a long enough tube to reach into the diff as you pump in the fluid. As with the transfer case, both diffs should be filled to the point were the fluid just starts running out, when on a level surface. On the rear, if you have the limited-slip, be sure to include the additive available from the dealer. You will need 5oz, and of course the bottles are 4oz each. What planning Mopar had.
Thanks,
Robert
When I suggested that the 4418 was not for the 1960's based engines... I was trying to say that the 4418 is not the best choice for the 1960s based engines.... not that it was not a suitable plug.
I trust that misunderstanding is now cleared up.
The BOSH 4418 is the best choice for the 4.7LV8 hemi. (unless you can afford the New iridium spark plugs at $8-$10 each)
Not only have the 4418 plugs shown to be excellent performers in the 4.7L. They are BOSCH plugs. This means that they have nickle plating on the threads, better insulator composition and long-life platinum tip. All of these add up to match the design-phelosiphy of the 4.7L engine.
(long operating life)
The 4418 sparkplugs will STILL BE PERFORMING LIKE NEW when lesser plugs will need to be replaced. If you have ever dealt with aluminum heads before... you will appreceate the nickle plated threads when it comes time to REMOVE your BOSCH sparkplugs. (I have had lesser sparkplugs break off in the head during removal... it was not a fun time telling my wife that her car had suddenly become a boat-ancher)
My idea of a good sparkplug is one with a long life with little performance degradation that is REMOVABLE when the time comes. (I DO NOT WANT TO BE REPLACING PLUGS NOR THE HEADS ANYTIME SOON)
Front diff: 1.75 qt.
Rear diff: 2.5 Qt
Man trans: 2.5 Qt
Transfer case: 1.25
At least when the dakota breaks, it will respond to repair (usually!)
With women, well, they don't always respond to repair. Sometimes they just don't respond!
SO focus on the dakota. WHen its paid off, then look for a woman I HAVE THE TITLE as of August 2000, so now what, any advice? sorry to be repeatous :-) or... Presently I am a bus driver, driving the Metro bus's in Houston TX and its only 3.6 miles to work....
James
Dunno, I'd get a hobby if I were you.
Based on your input I think you must have the 5.9L V8. The trans for the 5.9 is old technology. The transmission others are quoting the maintenance schedule is for is the 4.7L HiTech transmission which has very expensive drain intervals on shorter schedule, don't remember if A or B is the shorter and I don't have access to the manual right now. Another reason I got the 5 speed manual. Rick
Good luck.
Robert
Surprisingly my computer is accurate to within .2mpg every time. I still check my numbers manually but the computers is almost always dead on.
Wish me luck.
Robert
I don't think there is a fix for this. Anybody know?
I thought that the rear required 90wt and the front was like 85wt.
Blue.
Robert
If anyone can answer tonight or early in the morning I can get it at the store tomorrow before the wife leaves with her car as my truck isnt drivable in the pieces its in
Thanks,
Robert
I might be wrong, but I would bet those drain plugs are metric now.
Thanks,
Robert
Mobil1 is not "that much" better than any of the other brand-name synthetics. Just puck one and stick with it.
No experience with Amsoil other than it is REALLY expensive and is unlikely to be THAT much better than the others that run about $4/qt
Robert
Thanks for the vent.
Robert
Next, is the mysterious clank in the front end then happens each time I use the brakes. I am getting the feeling that DC does not want us to use the brakes which is why they made 'em so cheap in the first place.
I looked into my crystal ball and came to the conclusion that I do not have deep enough pockets to fix this truck once the warranty runs out.
I feel for ya.....all in all, its been quite frustrating to say the least.
Oh well, I did a blue book estimate courtesy of Edmunds and all I need to do next is call the bank and find out what the payoff is and see just how far apart I am. Then the for sale sign goes up if the numbers are close and I think I'll just get a used vehicle of some sort and do away with monthly payments. Yes, it may give me problems but at least I will have the title and NO payments.
Sad to say the last two years with this vehicle have been pretty onery. I expected more, a lot more than what I got. Too bad DC just can't seem to get its act together. There really are some nice features on the Dak. Its just a shame I cannot have the truck for a long enough stretch to enjoy it.
Good luck.
So if you are having brake pad issues, I would inquire about it to your service manager.
Good luck,
Robert
I wish you were wrong, but you have been right on target. I echo your sentiments about Dodge failing my expectations.
Less than a year ownership my odometer at 26K. I also am contemplating giving it up.
My wife refuses to drive my vechicle, hates the brakes!!
Sad part is having to tell everyone that asks (How do you like your truck?) I tell them with all honesty I don't. I pull out all the repair orders and the shock that comes from everyone is not good for D/C.
I belong to a large hunt club with everyone a 4x4 truck owner. Each trip to the woods my guys want to know what new problem my Dodge is having.
I just received another survey from D/C hoping my Dodge is meeting my expectations and how is my service department or lack of service.
I sent them my dissertation and asked for an invitation to their next stockholders meeting. I would love to speak to them. But unfortunately I have come to the conclusion that profits supersede quality.
Do I know trucks? You betcha! Work for a large Federal agency and we order thousands every year. Every State and every County were located and we are in the field and we know what are the good, bad and ugly. I do not know how to fix them but I sure have driven everything that is out there.
Anyway, your posts are appreciated.
Yes, I wish I was wrong too. Boy do I wish I was wrong on this. But alas, its true.
Going on a week now and still no Dak....Funny, I thought buying a new truck was supposed to cut down on the number of days in the shop. How wrong I was!
People have complimented the truck everywhere I go. THey ask would I recommend one. I don't say yes or no, I just recite the list of problems and let the individual decide for him/herself....yes, a couple of women stopped me one day and wanted to know ALL about the truck.
They were driving a Honda and I expect they will continue to do so after what I told them....sad part I never got a date for my pains! ha ha.
Edmunds TMV indicates my rig is worth $16,181 as it sits. I printed out the ready made for sale sign, I will pencil in some contact information and tomorrow, I will take them down to the dealer and tape them to the windows so I can advertise when I drive.....uh oh! There's the catch....I actually have to be DRIVING it in order for others to see the for sale sign! Given the recent events, that might be tricky.
I don't really care if I owe more than its worth at this point I want to be rid of it and move on to something else.
As I said, all the work so far has been on DC's tab and believe me, it is well over 1500 bucks if a person had to pay out of his pocket. I shudder to think what will happen at 40k, 50k, 60K etc.
Bpeebles mentions the cost to service the tranny and the 30K intervals on that. I am sure its not cheap so cost of ownership, based on past track record is surely to rise beyond my desire to pay for it.
Robert
Good luck.
Robert
Have a great day everyone.
Robert
Anyway, coolnant was changed, tires rotated, and the motor got 6 quarts of Mobil 1 5W30 + an NAPA (aka WIX) filter.
Good news is they finally fixed two vexing issues, one the slam shift of the 45RFE (a flash to the TCM did the trick, it no longer slams on the 2-3 upshift whether I accelerate hard or gently) and the clunk in the front end is gone. Issue there was (or so I am told) that the bolt hole threads for the caliper bolts had been stripped out somehow. Not too certain if it was done on the line or at the dealer in the past when they replaced rotors etc...........so they drilled out the hole(s), slapped a heli coil in there and now the front end is a quiet as a church mouse. There is SOME warpage to the rotors, I am not at all surprised, it's been about 7,500 since the last go around on that. Now that I have tax check (gee thanks uncle same for giving back some of MY money!) in hand, I will secure aftermarket units and be done with that part once and for all.
So far so good........BTW I owe more on the thing that I can get for it on the open market so for now I will have to trudge along and keep fingers crossed that nothing else breaks.
Just my .02
Robert
Drive Safe,
Joe
Robert
#632 of 635 Tundra driveline "thump" by arkie6 Feb 26, 2002 (09:35 pm)
On the vast majority of Tundras that experience the thump or bump in the rear when you come to an abrupt stop, it is due to binding in the driveshaft slip yoke. When you come to an abrupt stop, the rear of the truck rises up and elongates the driveshaft (via the slip yoke) in the process. Once you come to a stop, the back of the truck settles back down and the driveshaft compresses. If the truck is in gear, there will be some rotational torque applied to the driveshaft even when stopped. This rotational torque tends to increase the sliding friction in the slip yoke. If the slip yoke is not really well lubricated or the machining is not perfect, the slip yoke will tend to bind up and not compress. Then after you come to a stop, the transmission will downshift. During the downshift, the torque on the driveshaft is released which reduces the friction in the slip yoke and it will compress rather abruptly. This is the "thump" or "bump in the rear" that you are likely feeling. As a test to comfirm, shift the transmission to nuetral before coming to an abrupt stop. If you don't get the "thump" when you do this, but you do get it when the transmission is in drive, then it is very likely binding in the slip yoke.
Ok, now that you have determined that it is binding in the slip yoke, you can either fix it yourself or convince your dealer to do it. Dealers don't make much money on warranty repairs unless parts are replaced, so they often may opt to replace the entire driveshaft assembly, which is fine as long as they hand lube the slip yoke with some good quality grease. But replacement of the driveshaft is typically not necessary. The slip yoke just needs to be greased properly, particulary on the 4x4s. 4x4s have the slip yoke at the back of the driveshaft where it connects to the rear end pinion shaft. The 4x4 driveshaft uses 4-bolt flanges at the rear end as well as at the transfer case output shaft. The 4x2 on the other hand has the slip yoke in the tailshaft of the transmission and as far as I know (I have a 4x4) is lubricated by the transmission fluid. I have heard of 4x2s with the thump, but most problems are with the 4x4s. The 4x2s may benefit from had greasing the slip yoke splines, but I have not confirmed this.
The 4x4 driveshaft slip yoke has a zerk fitting for adding grease; however, it is not very effective at getting grease at the point where the friction is taking place. There is a large void under the zerk fitting and it may take 30-40 pumps on a grease gun to actually get any grease on the splines, depending on how much if any grease was in there to begin with. The splines and seal are very tight and you may encounter significant resistance on the grease gun while grease is migrating along the splines. I've had my driveshaft apart examining the slip yoke and you have two options to properly grease the splines. One is to drop the rear driveshaft where it attaches to the rear end via the 4 bolts (always match-mark the two flanges to ensure you put them back in the same position - also, turn the bolts, not the nuts since the nuts have a high friction base flange to resist turning) and pull the slip yoke apart (again, match mark both halves of the slip yoke to ensure they go back together in the same relative position - the splines do have a wide spline to prevent mismatch; however, it is hard to see which one it is especially with grease on them and it's a pain trying to find just the right spot where they will slip together - match-marking the two halves before disassembly makes this much easier). Once the slip yoke is apart is then readily apparent why putting 5 or 10 shots of grease in the zerk fitting won't do any good. You can then hand lube the splines with a good quality grease. I would clean out as much of the existing grease as possible, but as long as you use a lithum base grease there should be no compatibility problems. Toyota recommends a lithium base NLGI#2 chassis grease for this. I recommend a lithium base molybdenum disulfide (moly) NLGI#2 chassis grease for this, the same grease that Toyota recommends for the double cardon joint. Once you've got everything greased up good, slide the yoke halves back together using the match marks to guide you then put the both flanges together, again using the match marks as a guide, install the bolts and nuts and torque. I think the torque is about 40 ft-lbs, but I don't have my manual handy at the moment. Torque from the bolt head, not the nut since the nut has a high friction base. After it is all together, shoot about 5-10 strokes of grease in the zerk fitting for "reserve", but you do not want it completely full as this will limit compression of the slip yoke.
If all that is a little more than you want to tackle, here is an easier way that is probably just about as effective. Take your grease gun loaded with lithum base moly chassis grease and start pumping grease in the slip yoke zerk fitting. At some point you will encounter significant resistance on the grease gun handle and will likely note that the slip yoke is expanding. Slowly add grease at this point. You will likely see the slip yoke expand on each pump of the handle and then slowly contract. Continue adding grease for about 5-10 more strokes unless you see grease coming around the seal, then stop. Now get on the rear bumper and bounce it up and down a few times. This will tend to compress the slip yoke and force more grease along the splines. Now take a wrench and remove the zerk fitting to allow excess grease to escape. Once the zerk is removed, if a tablespoon or so of grease doesn't come out, then gently bounce on the bumper again to give it a little help. Once the excess grease is out, re-install the zerk, clean up the mess, and you are good to go.
This was known as the "arkie6 fix" over at Tundrasolutions and it resolved many of the "thump" problems people were experiencing, mine included. I initially used the straight lithum base chassis grease on the slip yoke and I started getting a hint of "thump" after about 5,000 miles. I subsequently put in the lithium base moly (an extreme pressure additive) grease and haven't had any hint of "thump" in 15,000+ miles. My truck (2000 Tundra 4x4) now has 28,000+ miles and is "thump" free.
Alan
SOmetimes, like with my 45RFE, a flash is done to enhance shifting of the xmission or to rectify a problem.
So, it depends on what is needed. I had to literally print out the TSB on the 45RFE and take it to the dealer to have them update the TCM so now I don't get the "slam" on the 2-3 upshift.
Personally, I'd rather go back to a 727 which needed neither a computer to tell it how to shift nor some expensive fluid and filter change to keep it going. ANd it was a bulletproof design.
I talked to two different local dealers about this and got two different stories naturally. Dealer #1 says they use ATF+4 in all 45RFE transmissions now, regardless of model year. BUT, they do not do a complete transmission flush because the pressure required to perform the flush is much higher than normal operating pressures and can damage the torque converter. So, they only drain what is in the pan (about half of total in the tranny?), change the two filters, and top it off with ATF+4. They do not recommend extending the interval to anything greater than the original 30,000 miles stated in the owner’s manual for the ’00 trucks. Not what I wanted to hear.
Dealer #2 says that they do not want to mix ATF+3 and ATF+4 together- they would prefer to stay with whatever was in there from the factory. Also, they won’t do the complete system flush either. But there reasoning is that they don’t want to “disturb” the particles that have settled out in the torque converter, but would rather just leave them alone. Is this a bunch of BS or what?
What do you think?
Thanks in advance.
As far as the transmission flush is concerned, I really can't say. I've only had one done once (and at 120K+ miles at that). It hasn't caused any noticable problems. My own philosophy would be to do it at the first service interval and then at every other service interval after that, unless you are doing some serious towing or other severe duty usage.
Just my take on it...
http://dodgeram.org/tech/tsb/2001/21-006-01.htm
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.