Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions
This discussion has been closed.
Most popular vehicles
Popular New Cars
- New Acura MDX
- New Acura RDX
- New Audi Q5
- New BMW 3 Series
- New BMW X3
- New Buick Enclave
- New Cadillac Escalade
- New Chevrolet Equinox
- New Chrysler 300
- New Dodge Challenger
- New Ford Edge
- New Ford Escape
- New Ford Expedition
- New Ford Explorer
- New Ford F-150
- New Ford Focus
- New Ford Mustang
- New Honda Accord
- New Honda Civic
- New Honda CR-V
- New Honda Fit
- New Honda Odyssey
- New Honda Pilot
- New Hyundai Elantra
- New Hyundai Santa Fe
- New Hyundai Sonata
- New Hyundai Tucson
- New Jeep Compass
- New Jeep Grand Cherokee
- New Jeep Wrangler
- New Mazda 3
- New Mazda 6
- New Mazda CX-5
- New Nissan Altima
- New Nissan Maxima
- New Nissan Rogue
- New Porsche Cayenne
- New Ram 1500
- New Subaru Crosstrek
- New Subaru Forester
- New Subaru Impreza
- New Subaru Outback
- New Tesla Model S
- New Tesla Model X
- New Toyota 4Runner
- New Toyota Camry
- New Toyota Corolla
- New Toyota Highlander
- New Toyota Prius
- New Toyota RAV4
- New Toyota Sienna
- New Toyota Tacoma
- New Volkswagen Jetta
- New Volvo XC60
- New Volvo XC90
Popular Used Sedans
- Used BMW 5 Series
- Used Chevrolet Impala
- Used Chevrolet Malibu
- Used Chrysler 200
- Used Dodge Charger
- Used Ford Fusion
- Used Ford Taurus
- Used Honda Accord
- Used Honda Civic
- Used Hyundai Elantra
- Used Hyundai Sonata
- Used Tesla Model S
- Used Toyota Camry
- Used Toyota Corolla
- Used Volkswagen Jetta
Popular Used SUVs
- Used Acura MDX
- Used Acura RDX
- Used Ford Edge
- Used Ford Explorer
- Used Honda CR-V
- Used Honda Pilot
- Used Hyundai Santa Fe
- Used Jeep Compass
- Used Lincoln Navigator
- Used Mazda CX-5
- Used Nissan Rogue
- Used Subaru Crosstrek
- Used Subaru Forester
- Used Tesla Model X
- Used Volvo XC90
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Dusty
The piston needs to be all of the way into the caliper body in order to get the pads over the rotor.
Bests,
Dusty
1) the caliper removal bolts are in the back of the caliper, toward the engine. (I did say I'd NEVER changed brakes before, right?!?!) :-)
2) The curvy metal retaining spring/clip on the front of the caliper is a [non-permissible content removed] to remove and and install and both can be accomplished (as someone else said) with three hands, some brute force and a little angling/wiggling.
3)Both the caliper and the brake disk/rotor removal MAY require a rubber mallet or hammer to jolt some rust loose.
4) The C-Clamp comes in handy (this was not initially obvious to me, not being able to tell what the piston was and being bad at spacial relations) as follows: insert the rod/spinning portion of the c-clamp inside the piston (cylindrical non-metal portion coming out from the inside of the caliper, serving to press against the inside brake pad) so that it buts up against the far inside of it and tighten slowly and gently that way. I looked at that thing for a few minutes before I figured out how to use them together ;-)
5) And any tips you have for not getting crap/fingers/grease/dirt/dust on the rotors while trying to install the caliper would be MOST welcome! :-)
Other than that, I know next time will be a piece of cake!
Have a great weekend!
Elissa
The cheapest way to clean the rotor-surfaces is to use IPA (Isopropol Alcohol) You can get a bottle of it at any grocery market. Apply libberally wtih sheet of paper towel allowing plenty of excess to wash off and drip to the ground. (Taking the yukkies with it)
If you wish to spend a bit more, there are aresol sprays available that can be used to "hose off" the rotors.
Here is a link to some good tips about rotor-seasoning and bedding the pads.
http://www.shotimes.com/brakes/part1.html
Anyway, on to my next dillema. Does anyone have a recommended interval for replacing the serpentine drive belt in the Dakota (we have a 3.L V6 RWD)? The owners manual suggests inspecting and replacing "as necessary" every 30K miles. But when do we REALLY need to do this? The truck has 60K and we're trying to sell it. At the 60K service we had done the mechanic noted "belt marginal" but didn't feel it warranted to replace yet. I don't want to pay the $400 if we don't have to but also don't want to dump it on the next person. I'm thinking drive belts usually go to 75K, am I way off here?
Thanks!
Elissa
- The battery - A battery, if it is getting old and discharging, will get charged by the alternator once the truck starts running. This could be consistent with your symptoms? Batteries run down faster in colder weather I believe so you may find that when the weather and the engine are both cold, you have more trouble starting. But in warm days or after you've been driving (and charging the battery off of the alternator) that she starts fine. Check under the hood, look to make sure the connectors are not corroded. Check your maintenance records for the last time you had the battery replaced.
- leaky/faulty fuel injectors - Do you do a lot of short/local trips and rarely any highway driving? This type of driving can clog fuel injectors. It wouldn't hurt to go through a couple bottles of fuel injector cleaner before considering a $200 fuel injector cleaner job at a shop. I hear if you open your hood in complete darkness too you can see the fuel injectors giving off spark if they are leaking. Dont' know if this is true.
- spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coil old, worn, improperly gapped, broken or loose connections. This stuff should be easy to diagnose on visual inspection or by checking your maintenance records - when was the last time you had this kind of work done? Spark plugs should be replaced every 30K in the Dakotas and ignition wires every 60K I think. Not sure off hand about the coil.
- ignition components damp. was it a particularly wet or foggy day? Do you park outside or in a garage? Do any wires under the hood look worn or exposed?
- timing/serpentine belt worn... you'd probably hear a horrible squealing noise if this were the case though. It's a fairly quick/easy inspection to look at the condition of your belts too. If you aren't familiar with appropriate tension in the belt, a mechanic could check if in 1 minute I would think. That should be $1 worth of labor, LOL!
- Engine idle could be incorrectly set. Don't know if you can manually adjust that in your truck or not. But that would probably be something you noticed as a problem more frequenty.
So there are lots of possibilities related to weather alone. Was the idle erratic or just non-existent? Did the truck start but then immediately die unless you pumped gas? What does it normally idle at in N when things are good? Oh, well, hopefully something in that list makes sense and you find the trouble before you get stranded some place.
-elissa
There have been many reports of a whimpy battery causing poor idle-quality on dodges. I suspect the engine-computer is sensitive to low battery voltage and cannot do its job.
Of course spark plugs can cause this, too, as well as a dirty air filter, clogged PCV valve or a vacuum leak. As Bpeebles mentioned, the Idle Air Control Motor can get dirty. These are easily removed and easily cleaned with a good fuel system solvent.
Best regards,
Dusty
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
what exactly does this mean and what do you think is the cause and fix?
Apparently 2 of the heater circuits have failed the ODB2 diagnostics. It is very unlikely that 2 of the O2 sensors have suddenly decided to die. It is more likely that a connector or ground is the problem.
Shortly after my Dak arrived from the factory, I was under the hood with a soldering iron and removed, soldered all wires that have a lug on them. I also ensured that there was clean steel (no paint) underneath each one.
In any case, you should exhaust all possibilities before letting anyone tell you that 2 of your O2 sensors need to be replaced.
I am sure that there are some relays in the box near the battery that can be swapped out (identical P/N) to see if there is a faulty relay.
I have the factory shop manual for my Dakota which includes detailed circuit analsys and schematics. Being trained in electronics, I like having these available. ;-)
Your Dakota has the California emissions package (you have four O2 sensors. Federal versions only have two).
I believe you will find that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has detected the heater coils in both downstream O2 sensors to be open. As Bpeebles mentioned, having both O2 sensors go bad (open coils) is unlikely. My first suspect would be an open circuit via a wiring problem.
Both downstream O2 sensor heater coil circuits have the following in common:
*connectors C1 and C3 on the PCM - There are four connectors in a row on the PCM which is mounted on the inside of the right front fender. The connectors are number from the front of the vehicle, rearward (C1, C2, C3, C4). Check for a loose connector, corroded pins, or pins that are damaged or pushed back into the connector body.
*connector C106 - Located in the Power Distribution Center. this is the connector, fuse, relay panel located behind the battery. Check for a loose connector, corroded pins, or pins that are damaged or pushed back into the connector body.
*ground point G105 -A bolt located on the bottom of the engine block behind the water pump on the right side of the engine. It is very close to the crankshaft position sensor connector. There will be two black wires crimped to a single lug terminal. The wires should be covered with convolute tubing or wrapped.
You could have damaged wiring anywhere along the circuit, of course. If it's not bad wiring, the PCM is probably defective.
Best regards,
Dusty
I have heard of a couple of Dakotas that did have a bad gas cap. Later versions got a slightly different cap design and there are two types: one with a metal case and another with a plastic case. They are not compatible with each other and represent a difference in the evaporative system.
Dusty
Elissa
Elissa, concrete serpentine belts are very difficult with which to work. Especially during cooler weather. Sorry about that, but I couldn't resist. Usually a visual inspection that looks for dry-rot, cracking and abrasions will determine if a new belt is needed. These particular items are part and parcel with length of time and ambient conditions.
Bookitty
If you are asking about the serpentine belt, Usually, visual inspection on a serp. belt is pretty trivial. Hasel mentions a good indicator to look for. Another indicator is the edges of the belt should not be showing threads of the cloth that make up the innards of the belt.
If you are asking about "timing belt" I am not even sure that your engine has one.
steering clunk i recall was a problem on my husband's '01 dakota and was covered in a TSB that the dealer took care of and hasn't been a problem since (60K on the truck). i don't recall what the problem was though but please mention it to your dealer. they should fix it under warranty.
I can tell, however, that the front shocks have gotten a little softer. Nothing that's a problem. I usually never replace shocks (or struts) on any of my vehicles, but this might be the first in a long time.
Best regards,
Dusty
My observations are the same as yours. After 17,000K, both the Front and Rear shocks on my '03 QC 2WD with HD suspension has gotten really soft. I know it's normal to expect wearing but, not this soon and so soft. On occasion, I have also experienced the steering knuckle rubbing against the lower control arms (the Clunk) when the wheel is fully turned out when going over a small bump (e.g. speed bump) similar to my '01. I thought the newer models had corrected this problem with better steering components. As previously mentioned by Bruce, I guess it's almost time to replace with Edelbrock IAS shocks.
Everything else seem to function well. No other unexpected problems.
dataguru
Steering and handling haven't been affected. Actually, since I have the heavier suspension package with front and rear sway bars, some might contend that my Dakota rides a little better.
There are no signs of leaking and other than the occasional sway bar bushing noise everything is still tight.
Regards,
Dusty
Quick update - '02 QC 4x4 4.7 auto w/60,000. Going strong. Repairs; numerous ball joint/control arm replacements and power door lock solenoid replacements. Brakes are original. Edelbrock IAS have 5000 and I am pleased with the way they handle the Detroit potholes. Goodyear's are original and looking thin and will be replaced by fall. Getting 18-19mpg on highway at ~75mph or below.
Problem: HVAC blower is not working. I have looked at the easy fixes... fuses and relays are good. I want to pull the blower motor and test it, I just don't know where it is. Since Chilton/Hayes does not feel like publishing a manual (what is the deal?), I was hoping someone has had the unfortunate experience of dismantling their HVAC. I worked at a HVAC manufacture during college, so I have some knowledge of their design and function, but every vehicle is different. I am guessing it's located under the dash on the passengers side, but before I go digging, maybe someone can help me pin point the location.
Thanks, Gordon
Ron
Springfield, VA
Thanks for the info. I did read the old posting that pertained to the resistor, but when I called the Dodge shop, they said people were probably referring to the relay in the fuse box under the hood. I will call back and see if they can give me the location of the resistor. I hope that is the problem because I wasn't looking forward to tearing apart my dash.
Gordon
Thanks
Regards,
Dusty
The best way to improve your gas mileage is not to have a lead foot and to keep your speed below 65 mph. Works for me. I can get 12-14 mpg while pulling a motorcycle trailer (2 bikes) while passing everything in sight. If I calm down and run at 55-60 mph without the trailer, I can get 20 mpg with 4.7L, 5 sp, 3.55 LSD, 4x4, with the big tires. I've spent ~$5.5K on gas since May 2000 to go ~60K miles.
I clean the o-ring off on the gas cap, put a little vasoline on it and after about 4-5 good "trips" (that means starting the truck and running it for at least 10-15 minutes) the light goes off on its' own. As soon as the light comes on, I know what I need to do........
Searched the internet for another replacement tire and was just about to go back to the Goodyears when I came across Yokohama Avid S/T. I bought the 245/70/15. This only changes my speedometer by 1.3% and it is on the low side. That means that when I'm going 60 on the dial, I'm really only going 59. Better than getting 255/70/15 which can change the speedometer the other direction by 2.5mph.
Thanks,
Gordon
The average reading comprehension rate for late twentieth century Americans has been around 60%. This figure for electronic presentations is around 70%, but this number is misleading. Because the education and acquired skill level is higher for people owning PCs, the comprehension rate is skewed. In side-by-side testing of the same people, the reading comprehension rate for on-screen reading drops by another 10% across a non-homogeneous population.
We publish hardcopy installation manuals because when installing our machines our service engineers would be physically limited by using a laptop enough to actually raise the cost (in time) of installations. Our service manuals, however, are on CD, not because they add convenience to the end-user, but because they are so much cheaper to publish electronically. (Although my company excluded the cost of the laptop in the equation!)
Personally, I have a Chrysler hardcopy service manual for my '03 Dakota. The pages will get dirty and torn over time, but it is a much more convenient vehicle when working around the truck. It is expensive, I think I paid around $125, but it is worth the convenience to me.
Best regards,
Dusty
Bookitty
Ron
That story doesn't surprise me. We used VHS tapes for a while then migrated to CDs to do basically the same thing. Video is, of course, a more broadly comprehensible presentation method, but is generally more effective for instructional needs, such as operator type information.
Unfortunately not all electronic presentation methods are as effective. We publish some of our manuals as .PDFs on CD for laptop use. This works and the original advocates pushed this as a "more effective" way of communication. This was bul*****. The real reason was reducing the cost from print.
Most of our service manuals are EDOC (Electronic Documentation) and provide linking to other procedures or parts lists, as well as active interfaces with the customer's machine itself. For instance, a diagnostic run routine that is embedded in the machine software can be initiated from the service manual. In some cases it can read specific NVM values. In reality it is very much like an ODB-type instrument, but instead embedded in the service manual itself.
Best regards,
Dusty
Rick, you are learning from pictures? How far you have advanced since you've learned to drive a Ram!
Bookitty
2000 4.7 Dakota 108,00 miles, gradually running warm for about 1-1/2 year btw 210 and 260 when stopped in traffic w/AC on.
Confirmed water flow (no water pump problem) thermostat operating, radiator clean, fan operating, timing correct, fuel mix not lean.
No suspect found. Then had a pin hole coolant leak in thermostat housing behind thermostat, patched this with JBWELD until replacement timing cover was ordered. Upon removal to replace cover found leak was cause by corrosion eating thru housing, also found corrosion had eaten thru behind water pump disrupting proper water flow. Found timing chains had stretched beyond specs (engine knocking at 80,000 miles) because the excessive heat had caused oil to clog tensioner.
The deteriorated aluminum timing cover was the cause but never would have been suspected. Dont know what cause this, hope no damage to other parts (heads).
Can you tell us how often you changed the antifreeze and did you use the "special" antifreeze that is specified for this engine?
Thus far, the 4.7L engine has been viewed as a VERY reliable engine design. However, since it is just starting to "age" to the point where this kind of flaw may arise, I am concerned.
The dealer just said they did a pressure test of some kind.
I had taken my truck over to a local mechanic who said that a smoke test was needed to find the problem and that he didn't have the equipment to preform the test so he told me to take it to the dealer for repair.
p0141(02 sensor 1/2 heater ckt oxygen sensor 1/2 heater element malfuntion)
and p0161 (02 sensor 1/2 heater ckt oxygen sensor 2/2 heater element)
so heres what was wrong, took to my local mechanic who tested all 4 o2 sensors and determind that 2 of sensors (cant remember if they were upstream or down now) were bad. Thus per his recomendation I went ahead a replaced all 4. He explained that sometime when you just replace one or two of them the older ones will put out a code saying there not working fast enough. so to avoid another vist I just decided it was best to do all 4 and get it over with... so $550.00 later ( 86.70per sensor x4 + $70 dignostic + $90.00 installation) ouch!!! any have any ideas what exactly causes a 02 sensor to go bad especially with only 35k.