Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

dodgetrukn

Dataguru, I got this link off of my printed list I carry in my truck.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm Ger

dustyk

Data,

My list says it's:

P0121 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem

The factory Dodge service manuals do not list the codes.

Regards,
Dusty

mtrialsm

Anyone else have problem with broken wheel studs?
Just noticed one on the rear broken. About a month since wheel balance/rotation.
Any recalls?
Mick

dataguru

(dustyk) Dusty - Thanks.

It was subsequently found the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) voltage did not match the settings in the PCM. The TPS voltage was previously increased and the 4.7 engine apparently does NOT like it.

dataguru

dustyk

Data,

Is it fixed? If so, what was the solution?

Bests,
Dusty

dataguru

(dustyk)
"Is it fixed? If so, what was the solution?"

Dusty - Problem has been resolved. Background...after removing the throtte body for cleaning, etc. the TPS voltage was increased to .76v (in hopes of better throttle response) during assembly. The original factory setting was .53v on this Quad. (the TPS sensor voltages varies from vehicle to vehicle) After learning what the P0121 DTC code meant from this Forum, I reset the voltage back to .53v and all is well. Apparently, the 4.7 does not like the increased voltage. I presume there must be an E-prom somewhere with factory settings, whereby the signals from components are constantly checked/verified in order to throw out appropriate DTC codes.

Best Regards,
dataguru

bobfish

Finally found another power seat base on e-bay brand new .Got it for a good price too,just wanted to let you know how I made out.

hunter58

I had to take my 03 in for a leak in the rear differential. Turned out the carrier and bearings were bad, only have 24,000 miles on it. I heard the Dakotas are having this problem. Has anyone had this problem or heard about it.

sunburn

I had the rear differential rebuilt on my 02 QC at about 29K miles. New ring and pinion, bearings, and axle housing. Now at 50K miles it is still a little whiney, but not near as bad as it was before the rebuild.

dustyk

>>> I heard the Dakotas are having this problem. <<<

Not quite. Correctly stated, a certain population of Dakota owners have reported a differential problem.

The vast majority are not having any kind of differential problem.

Unfortunately these instances seem to be associated with those axle assemblies manufactured by American Gear. American Gear has also supplied axle assemblies to GM and Ford where they too have a higher incident rate.

The larger 9.25 American Gear assembly appears to be victim of faulty assembly or bad machining in about 2% of Dakotas shipped.

Best regards,
Dusty

mopar67

I thought Dana was supplying the 9.25 axle. That was the unit on my rig. American Axle (not gear) got the contract for the Jeep but I was not sure if they also snagged the Dak contract. I've looked at new Rams with the AAM logo on the rear cover.

Heck who knows........so much supplier switching these days makes it tough to keepup.

dodgetrukn

Changing out my rotors and front pads this w'end.. Read some past posts about replacing them, and seems fairly straight forward.. Any new snags I should expect from persons who did this job?? Figure I might have to hammer off the old rotors at 52k miles.. Got the raybestos rotors w/ceramic pads. Preferred the idea of brembo, or powerslots, but my 'spare' cash will be needed for a new roof on the house. Just wanna get this job done before winter sets in. Any hints or blessings!?!? Thx, Ger

dustyk

Well, I'm going by what my local Dodge tech. tells me. I've been under my Dakota and I don't remember seeing "Dana" or other Dana-type markings. When I changed the rear axle fluid I thought something on the pumpkin led me to believe it was a American Gear.

Oops! Yeah, it's American Axle & Manufacturing. You see I live in Rochester, New York area and one of their plants is in Buffalo, known as Buffalo Gear. I think Detroit Gear is also owned by them, too. Anyway, I still refer to New Venture now and then as "New Process Gear."

Don't get old if you can help it!!!

Bests,
Dusty

bpeebles

I just replaced my rotors and pads on my 2000 dak (for the second time) I was not very pleased to find that the powerslots were shot. (wayy too rusty to even have them turned.)

This time, I went with BENDIX rotors. they actually have "made in USA" engraved in them.(the powerslots said "Canada" on them.) There were cheeper rotors than Bendix available but they were of questionable quality.

For pads, I used the NAPA "ceramix" pads. They are less expensive than the Raybestos ceramic pads but rated just as highly. (check out the police-cruser brake test on the web... VERY detailed and well-written testing process.)

I now have one side that is dragging a bit. I am picking up another caliper tomorrow. The brakes need bled anyway.

tiltboy

I know I have read about front end noise here, but I can't rememeber were. I have an 04' QC, 7k miles and I occasionally hear a single clunk/pop out of the front end. It happens about once every 3-4 days it seems. Usually moving in a straight line. Maybe some type of tie rod bushing? Any ideas?

Thanks, Tilty..

mciad

Please forgive my ignorance - but - where do you get that code? Do I need to take my 2001 Dakota Quad cab to the dealer, as I have the Malfunction Indicator Light lit up?

Thanks in advance for the assist?

MCIAD

sunburn

You can get the codes by switching the ignition on and off 3 times, ending in the on position. The codes will be displayed in the odometer. My 02 QC used to get the P0456 code 1-2 a year. There is a PCM flash that fixes the problem. I had it applied to my 02 and haven't seen the problem since.

mopar67

This is interesting.

nascarguy16

Friday I got new tires, started going down the road and check engine light came on. It had been running a bit rougher than normal. Every now and then when you get to a stop, it drops in RPM's, shakes, and then cuts off. In a turn the other day I let off the gas then started to mash it again and it didn't want to go at first, then it was like it snaped into place and the tires spun. It's been hesitating like that every now and then. Yesterday we put some new spark plugs in, changed the distributer cap, and all that good stuff and it didn't want to stay running when you left off the gas. We sprayed some caberator cleaner in the carberator and it starting doing fine. Now I have to mash the gas when starting up where as I didn't before. Is this a cause for concern and what should I do to fix it? (The Check engine light is still on by the way.)

bpeebles

you did not give us much info to go on (like which engine you have) ... but going by your description, I would start looking for a vacuum leak and check the PCV operation.

nascarguy16

V-6 3.9 Sorry about that. The only vaccum hose I seen looked a little dry rotted, but not bad enough to cause a problem. We will repalce that, and I'll look up the PCV operation and see what we have to do to check that. Thanks.

nascarguy16

I was talking to my boss, he had a dodge dakota, I was telling him what it was doing before and he said that his did the same thing at a worse extent and it was the Oxygen Sensor. Is that a possibility?

ram02

Hello all, been awhile since I visited. I have a 2004 Dakota Club Cab. 3.8 V6, 4 wheel drive. Every once in a while, right after coming to a COMPLETE stop, there is a thump or bump sound which seems to be coming from the rear end. Sometimes I have to listen for it and sometimes you can feel it in the steering wheel and brake pedal. If I let up on the brake, and roll the truck forward as much as a couple inches, it will thump again, and again, and again. If I had to describe it, it sounds like something rolling around in a car trunk. It will STOP doing this by itself for days at a time. When It stops doing it, I can't make it start doing it. And when it is, I can't make it stop. The dealer replaced the sway bar links but said they found no other problem. Well it still does it. Any one have any idea as to what I should be looking for here? Your help would be appreciated.

gtownguy

Hi all, I just got a p 0442 code on my 01 qc. Does anyone know what that means?

thanks
Tom.

dodgetrukn

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_4.htm shows P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak).
 I can't elaborate on the origin of the error..but could pull a guess? loose/worn gas cap seal, old vacuum hoses? I wonder if after a few engine cycles/trips that the error may go away if you secured the gas cap? My '01 53.3k quad never had this error..yet... Good Luck. Ger

bpeebles

A nearly-full tank of fuel will cause this sound. I have heard it many times on my dakota. Once I realized it was the gas in the plastic tank sloshing around, It was easy to recognize the sound.

When the conditions are just right. (only a few inches of air in the gas tank.) It is easy to get it to thump, thump, thump...several times with ONE stop.

Back when the gas tanks were STEEL, this sound was much harder to hear.

Dont get me wrong though... I HATED steel gas tanks. Every vehicle I ever owned with a steel tank ended up leaking due to rust. I have NEVER had a fuel leak from a plastic tank.

ram02

Cool thanks for the help. That's what the dealer told me too but who ever believes a dealer? Do you know any real good way to eliminate or at least minimize the noise? Short of looking for a steel tank that is!

dustyk

If a steel tank is designed the same way your current one is, it won't address your concern. The problem is the baffling in the tank.

I've gotten use to mine and never found it to be annoying. Just didn't know what was going on at first which made me a little nervous.

Best regards,
Dusty

ram02

Thank You for the details Dusty. Guess I'll just have to get used to it. Really happy with the rest of the truck!

gtownguy

Thanks Dodgetrukn, Dealer wants to charge a minimum of 1 hr for diagnostic charge to start. I went ahead and bought a new gas cap at autozone for $12. . Sounds like this may be an answer, I hope or it will be lots more at the dealer.
  Should I just drive and wait till light goes off or should I disconnect the Battery to reset???.
 I did that last week and after a day of driving it came back on. (prior to new gas cap).
Thanks
Tom.

dustyk

The P0442 is an emissions code and in general need to be reset with an OBD2. Disconnecting the battery will reset it, but you'll lose other potentially good data as well.

Some codes will reset after 40 "good" trips. A "good trip" is defined as a cold start to complete operating temperature, then a shut down. If your patient give that a try. If that doesn't work, then disconnect the battery for 40 seconds.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles

Although a loose gas cap may cause this errorcode, it is unlikely a "new" gascap will fix your problem.

I have had this issue twice on my dakota. The first time, a hose had popped off the charcoal-canister. (underneath the truck below the drivers seat with several hoses plugged into it.)

The second time I had this errorcode on my dakota, a porkupine had nibbled thru some hoses causing an air leak.

Just as a reminder for those of you that have forgotten what this error means....

There are 2 "tests" that may cause this failure.
1) First, a slight pressure is built up in the air above the gas in the tank (you can hear the puump for this test on a cold engine as a 'buzzing' sound under the hood.)

2) If the pressure can be built up, then the second test is to see if the pressure can be maintained for a specific amount of time.

Both of these tests are "standard" OBDII (On Board DIagnostics version2) and are designed to verify that no gasolene fumes can escape to the atmosphere. (Imagine an underground parking garage filled with cars that are leaking gas fumes..... BOOM!)

tiltboy

Everybody ignored my last post....#3002. It happened this morning again, in the driveway. My truck had been sitting for a week. I cranked it, and before shifting into drive, a loud clunk that sounds like the front end. Any ideas?

Thanks...

gtownguy

Thanks Bpeebles that's the kind of info I'm looking for. (And to all others). I did a search and it seemed some other folks with a 01 vintage had their gas caps fail. (one specifically mentioned rust of a metal piece inside the cap.) Also the Guy at Autozone said he see's a lot fail worn seals etc. (His IQ??not sure) Anyways tonight I'll check those hoses underneath and some others for critters eating them. I too, last year had some in my engine compartment biting into wires, luckily just the outside wrap and not the insulation. Some reason there seems to be a lot of easy access points to get inside the engine compartment. ( Where are my wheel well skirts/???hmm I had them on my S10 Blazer) Hopefully I'll find something easy to spot. I also did have a hissing sound mentioned months ago and found a air hose split at the connection. (3 months ago) I trimmed it and re-attached. That however did not throw a code. I recheck ed and all looks good, but none under the truck......time to get the creeper.
Thanks
Tom.

dustyk

Tom,

Usually a faulty gas cap will cause a "Large Leak Detected," but in my case it caused a "Small Leak Detected" fault code. Dodge has gone to a different cap design and manufacturer if you get an original replacement.

The evaporative lines outside are also a cause, although not to the same degree. I've been told that the usual spot is a plastic coupling on a hose that runs very close to the steering column under the hood. Your's being older may see a rotted hose.

Best regards,
Dusty

dodgetrukn

Wondering if you resolved your P0442 leak situation with the Gas Cap.. I too had gotten that error code, looked at my gas cap, as it was loose. It was the ONCE and ONLY time that I didn't secure it at the gas station and the attendant did not rotate the cap till it clicked. I always get out of my truck and remove and put the cap back on myself except that time. Still happy with my new raybestos rotors and ceramic pads, feels good to drive the truck once again. Take care. Ger

gtownguy

Hi all, Well 3 days later after I changed the cap and disconnected the battery the code has not come back>>>(keeping fingers crossed) (200 miles later). Kudos to the guy at autozone...
  So last night being bored...ok curious, nosey, etc. I took apart my old gas cap. Wow, Wow, Wow, there was soooo much corrosion on the inside where I guess were metal disks or parts are I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did. Now, from the outside, when fully asembled, no clue at all.
  See, I guess they change suppliers and designs for a reason. Mine lasted to 39k just after the 36k warranty. I do have addedplus warranty to 60k, but guy at dealer told me originally this stuff is not covered by that warranty, and there's a $50.00 deductible. Is he right? Previously from other cars (GM) I always thought this pollution crap ( I mean technology) was covered further than the basic warranty.

Thanks,
Tom.

popdaddy

I've got the same problem as Tom and I'm trying the same solution. But I don't know if I have the patience for 40 good trips. If I disconnect the battery to reset, what "other potentially good data" will I lose?

dustyk

You'll lose any stored faults and...if you have the 545RFE automatic transmission...it'll go through the learn cycle again.

Regards,
Dusty

lf1313

I am trying to replace a serpentine belt on a 1998 Dodge Dakota truck. I removed the old belt by taking off a pulley (illustrated by the belt diagram under the hood). I cannot get the new belt back on because the it's too tight. The pulley is mounted to a tensioner I believe (I can see a spring inside teh housing). How do I make this tensoiner move the pulley enough to get the belt on?? Thanks in advance for your help....

bpeebles

You did not mention the specific engine you have but any of the serp belts I have replaced were easy to install by placing a wrench on the center bolt of the tensionor pully and using that as leverage to hold the pulley as the belt was 'threaded' into place. Then just slowly release the tension so the pully takes up the slack on the belt.

The above tecnique is also used to REMOVE the belt. I am surprised you got the belt off. It is often not a good idea to let the tensioner "SNAP" as the belt is pried off of it.

yoshio

I'm going to change my rotors - brake pads this weekend and I have a couple of questions.

This one is for Bpeebles: You recently replaced your brake pads with ceramix...I called Napa and was informed that they had two types. One for $40 and another for $75. Which one did you purchase and why?

My next question is...Due to circumstances I can't order Bendix rotors online (can't find it in town) and want to know if anyone else has had trouble with the powerslot rotors. Or is there any recomendations for another manufacturer.

Thanks....

popdaddy

I noticed after a recent rain the retractable sunroof in my 2000 Dak leaking. Actually, it leaked inside the headliner, then soaked through. Has anyone had this problem, and what did you do to fix it?

hasel

Use the Brembo Rotors, you can get them at The Tire Rack, Stay away from the Ceramic Pads I had problems with them, they started to seperate from backing plate after 8000 miles.

yoshio

what ceramic pads did you use? And what are you using now?

Are you using the slotted Brembo rotors or regular?

bpeebles

NAPA (National Automobile Parts Association) has several brake-pads available for the Dakota. They range from el-cheepo all the way up to their "CERAMIX" brand. NAPA has ony one "CERAMIX" brake pad available for the Dak.

I went with the NAPA "CERAMIX" mainly because it produces less black dust which makes the front wheels look like cr$p.

The box which contained my BENDIX rotors also has P/Ns for several other brands (Dont forget that BENDIX (Honeywell) manufactures for other folks.) I would expect that they are all the same component.

I happen to have one of the BENDIX boxes right in front of me. It says:
BENDIX (Honeywell) 145147
AIMCO 5382
EIS/MIDAS BR2045
NAPA 86645
RAYBESTOS/WAGNER 76645

yoshio

Thank you for your reply. I just called NAPA and asked about the rotors. He stated the NAPA 86645 was one that he had in stock. That is great news!

I again asked to confirm the ceramix pads. He quoted me two ceramix pads for the dakota??? I guess I have to research the ceramix pads to find out the difference.

Thank you again. You have helped me a great deal and I really appreciate it.

Craig

hasel

Did not use the slotted Brembo Rotors, The Ceramic Pads that I used where Raybestos, after removing the Raybestoes pads I re-installed the OEM pads they where still on truck at 41000 miles when I traded it last month for a 2004 Q cab and showing little wear.

teach1

The passenger side floor fills with rain water after I back out of my driveway. I can hear the pooled water drain unto the floor. The drive has an incline. It doesn't seem to happen after a rain when the truck is on level ground. Does anyone have an idea where the leak is? I'm getting really tired of "bailing out" my truck!

yoshio

I find it funny that the rotors talked about and used by consumers in this forum in one way or another didn't work out. Is this a hit or miss type of thing?

I was set on buying Powerslot, then along comes a negative response.

Bendix is mentioned, but then I realized that Bendix also supplies NAPA (86645) and Raybestos(76645). There is a negative reponse to the Raybestos (76645). Will the Bendix and NAPA warp also?

Brembo is the only one without a negative...so far.

So I guess you buy a rotor and hope for the best.

The question is how much money do you spend on a rotor? Do you spend the $75.00 on the Belkin and NAPA products or as someone on this forum mentioned, " Buy the cheapest one and plan on changing it every 20,000 miles or so. "

I've gotta change my rotors and pads this weekend, so i better decide quick.

Good night,
Craig