jli30661- I have had the Mopar all weather floor mats which are really catch all's with a Ram's Head logo on them for almost 2 years now and they are great. They fit perfect, can really take a beating and then when you hose them off they look new. One thing I really like about them is that they (at least the Mopar version) come with 2 snaps on each mat, which locks them in place so that they don't slide all over.
ron 35- these mopar mats are really catch-alls? are they rubber? do they have the curved up edges like a bathtub to hold liquid? how much $. how do the snaps attach to the carpet?
jl130661 - You can tell by looking at the mats that they are made by Catch All because they are very similar. When I first got the mats I was a little suspect because they did not appear to be very thick or heavy but they have a rubber/plastic backing and can take a suprising beating and still look good. I have had them in snow, sand and mud and they clean up great with some soapy water and a hose off. The carpet on the top matches the Dak interior and although it is not thick whatever it is made of is tough and can take a beating and clean up easily. They do have a slight upturn and will hold some water and snow although not a quart. I paid $90 (list) for mine because I was in a hurry to get them if you went to a discount Dodge dealer like Kohler you could probably get them for $70-$75. The catchall version in the JC Whitney catalog is $80 but I don't believe they have the snaps. The snaps screw into your carpet wherever you want your mats positioned and then attach to donut holes in the mat itself. I've always had a problem with mats in my cars and trucks shifting around and these mats are the best I've seen at keeping stationary.
I'm looking to install a couple Maverick missiles on my QC. Placing them outboard will make the truck too wide. Should I lift the truck and place them under or mount them to the top of the truck ?!?
I put the Mavericks on the front fenders. The roof was the only place big enough to put the Phoenix (next to the vulcan cannon). Sidewinders fit nicely underneath (2 forward, 1 rear). Chaff and flare dispensers are hidden in the bed.
I responded to his message: to say I really appreciated his "customer friendly " response and would let everyone know the great service you could expect from Rhino at the corportate level.
From the Rhino guy:
Its amazing that you do not want to give the simplest amount of information but if we have no idea how our advertising is working and we have to raise costs then everyone is in arms. It takes less time to fill out the information that it does to send me the e mail. Go figure.
-----Original Message----- Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 5:10 PM To: info@rhinolinings.com Subject: Rhino Linings General Inquiry
Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on 12/8/01 5:09:39 PM
this is my original letter basically saying I thought their website was not customer friendly
Message: by putting a requirement for me to input your market research before you let me find a local dealer,will point me to buy x liner instead of considering your products.
An over-the-cap ladder rack? The type which a person can keep the cap on the bed, but can still install or remove a ladder rack. Thank you for any help. Bob
You might try LadderRacks.com They have a cantilever model for mounting over a cap. It appears though that if you remove the rack there will be 4 tabs sticking out at bed rail height.
I just orderd a set of powerslot brake rotors from Leon at truckperformance.com. There is a "group buy" going on and the price is right. ($79 each +shipping) Normal price is over $100 each for these puppies.
Actual notes from Leon follow...
12/06/2001 ....So give me a call at 800-719-8100 ext. 226 and I'll hook you guys up. I'm also willing to give everyone free shipping on ecerything else plus an additional 5% off not including the rotors.
12/18/2001 ...Just wanted to thank everyone that partisipated in this group buy. It went so well I desided to extend this offer to the next 9 people that call me regarding this group buy will get the group buy price, and just a reminder these will also fit durangos.
Thanks for the info on the group buy, hopefully even a day late I'll be able to get in on it.
Have you heard from the company you had been working with for the cold air intake? I tried to go to the website this AM and found it gone because of the Home.net thing. I still need to buy my QC her x-mas gift
This is what GUICE wrote to me recently.. "We are looking for some people who would buy at our cost the new tube and try it out and give us feedback at this time. We have a prototype working on a truck now but want to try it on some other trucks. As for a full time production we are not there yet. Still in the testing stage. Thanks and we will keep you posted. Guice" He mentioned to me they would roll out production in Jan. 2002 , I didn't get a price. Ger This was emailed to me from GUICE from gforcedrt@yahoo.com
Was in my friendly supermarket today when I happended across an issue of Mopar Now! magazine. Tucked in the pages was an article that had my drooling so badly, I had to rebutton my jacket to cover the mess. On page 47 begins the article whereby the stock 65MM throttle body is replaced with a 68MM unit. The article goes on in great detail how to remove and replace the unit. Looks like a six pack job to me. They were even kind enough to provide the part number of the 68MM throttle body. The downside? Well, there is none other than the small oversight as to exactly how much power was gained. Another insight is the suggestion to replace the ribbed intake hose with a smooth one to gain add'l power. Again, they don't go into detail as to how much,but common sense would indicate that it couldn't hurt. Finally, they offer some commentary about the 4.7 mostly positive; looks like its certainly garnering a good reputation.
I have not researched the 68MM unit but theory tells us that a larger TB will allow better engine breating at higher RPMs. (Just like most of the other changes one can make to their engine.)
Do not forget that the stock TB was increased from year 2000 to 2001 in the dakota too. So... the year of your Dakota matters with this upgrade to the 68MM unit.
Many of us have allready removed the stock intake plenum and "corragated" hose and replaced with $20 worth of stuff from Home Depot. As with many changes... low-RPM torque is traded for higher-RPM power. (and GREAT intake sound.)
bpeebles , I took a close look at the first example (using the stock breather box) you gave in the previous post since I plan on keeping the stock box as well (I have the K&N filter).. i have a question.. I see 3 distinct sections: a rubber (?) adapter from the box to the next section, a straight section and an elbow to the TB. The straight section is PVC pipe?? and what is the elbow made from? I havent taken my OEM apart yet so havent seen under the "hood". Finally the connection from the elbow to the straight piece is hard to see in the pic.. anotehr adapter? I know it it looks simple, and comes recommended from yor experience but I figure I should have all the parts before i dismantle my intake path.
ALSO for anyone interested, while on PVC usage. I made a Bed Extender from PVC pipe (approx $35 with paint from Home Depot). Looks and works exactly like the over $200 aluminum versions. With some hardware to attach to the bed, it made a VERY cost effective alternative and already had 2 people aske if I can make them one.. hmmm what is the going labor rate for this mopar67?? 3 beers per hr? more/less? also watch that PVC glue.. keep the garage door OPEN LOL
How did you mount your bed extender to the bed? Does it pivot into the bed like the $200 version, or does it attach differently? I can't use the $200 bed extender because it won't clear my cap when rotating it into the bed. Making my own out of PVC gets around this problem. This sounds like a nice weekend project (once I thaw out in the spring). A picture would be great! Thanks for the creative idea.
Oh yes it pivots. I have used it as an extender several times so far, but ESPECIALLY like the securing of groceries and such when pivoted inside the bed. I have a hinged (home adaptation again) soft tonneau so it pivots out when the tonnueau is raised, and then lowered, effectively protecting the bed if needed. (I also have a hammock style bungee net from bed rail to bedrail to hold small stuff as needed). Mounting to the bed is the spot I am working on still. I drilled a hole on each side and threaded a brass adapter (Pep Boys hydraulic line accesories..) where I can thread a 3/8 bolt into. With nylon washers I passed the bolt through the PVC at the appropriate spot where it can pivot as the metal versions and into the adapter. seems pretty darn secure to me. However, i want an easier way to remove it, without a crescent wrench.. and I have plans to replace the adapter with a non threaded collar (already have) and pass a locking pin (the kind with the ball bearing at one and a ring at the other) which I believe will give me the strength and quick removal feature I want. Finally to secure to the tail.. I am looking at some plates to secure straps to but till the weather gets better.. a long bungee from gate latch over the first PVC bar (mine is 3 rows of pipe tall.. same as the aluminum) and back works quite well. I will borrow a digital camera shortly to take pics. Thanks for the feedback.. I had fun building it.
(ahasher) The rubber elbow and the rubber "connector" between the stock filterbox and length of pipe are both made by the same canadian company. Known as FERNCO couplings.
The short length of black pipe in the photo is not PVC instead, it is made of ABS which is said to be less susceptable to shattering in cold wether. The ABS piping is found in the commerical ELECTRICAL area of Home Depot. (used for conduit)
Personally, I used PVC piping painted with aluminum spraypaint. Other than that, my setup is EXACTLY like THIS.
I have used the same large rubber floor mats in my last 3 trucks. I got them at a department store many years ago. (at least 8 years ago)
The main thing to remember is to NOT purchase any mats that are stapled together on a cardboard "hanger". After removing the staples... there WILL be leaks. (stupid packaging)
Well for anyone interested, I finally put some pictures of my home-brew Home Depot PVC Bed Extender. About $40 in materials, including the black bedliner spraypaint. Mods are already in the works to improve the design, but you can see the overall design.
how many beers was it, 12, 16 a case? Good job. Market this as "Ahashers Ultimate Bed extender" Farm it out to Mexico where you can pay a buck an hour and keep the rest as profit. Then you can do an IPO, and keep several million shares and ............... Oh heck, enjoy it!
ha ha. Ok, since you and I seem to have found cures for our shaky,lumpy and screwy idle issues, its time for us to relinquish our titles as idel jesters. I don't rightly know what kind of title we can assume going forward. BTW, have been watching closely with the onset of winter here in good old PA and the idle is solid as a rock. So, the fix works in warm AND cold weather too! How about that? Way to go DC! I knew all along they could build a truck that ran well in summer and winter!
I was looking at your home made bed extender. Very professional looking job. I was wondering if you slipped a length of elecrical conduit inside the PVC pipe if it would provide the support for your wood without a center support.
I made a boat rack at one time using galvenized conduit. I inserted 1/2" conduit inside 3/4" conduit for strength. It would hold quite a heavy load without flexing. Rick
I am looking for aftermarket running boards for my new QC. They'll help my 3 yr old get in and protect my rocker panels which are getting pumeled by all the gravel they use on the streets! I want a black, plastic, or aluminum model (not fiberglass) anybody have any suggestions???
for the compliments!!! AND..iowabigguy....yes, your idea to insert a metal pipe would solve the problem, making it was long enough to be supported on the 2 outside legs. I havent made any changes yet, but since its already glued.. I have to cut the pipe to either insert something or add a leg.. but your pipe idea seems cleaner and since I like the look of the 3 bars without an extra support.. I can add an extra coupling at the ends to reglue the pipe back together.. should look just fine. new builds should include it before gluing. I will put your suggestion to use.. THANKS!
mopar67, IDLE smooth with a couple of below 30 degree mornings.. so seems like the IDLE jesting days are over...
and I installed the Home-Depot cold air ducting this past weekend. $22 for the Fernco pieces and some 3 inch PVC pipe.. very easy procedure.. and i will see how it responds in The next few days of commuting..
ahasher - I have the Mopar bed extender and have seen your efforts and I think they are great. I have one question and that is about the method used to lock the extender in place. The method used by Mopar (clips on the extender and small cathes mounted on the tailgate) is not very effective. I have seen the extenders for other model vehicles and they appear to use much better methods to secure the extender. One method which I just saw at the DC Auto Show is to use a retractable pin above the pivot point which is spring loaded; another is a strap which is attached to clips on the side of the tailgate (don't believe this will work on the Dakota, I saw it on a Nissan P/U). I'm not sure if you have given this any thought yet, you have a great extender and I would buy it in a heartbeat.
This might be backwards but the extender came before the attaching points..LOL. but yes i have been looking at several methods for a final pivot point and locking setup. 1. order the original bed extender hardware from the manufacturer($$$... and not my first choice) 2. use a larger unthreaded collar and a locking pin, with a second pin to keep it from moving when extended, or a strap and hook (again similar to the original) the collar and pins, and strap pieces i already have thanks to Home Depo and the wal-mart luggage section. Obviously this is a work in progress but alot of fun to mess with. However the current bolt threaded into a collar works well for now.. and infact seems quite strong for my uses.. since I cargo strap large items if it is in use. So I appreciate any input and suggestions.. There is a wealth of engineering and mechanical knowledge on this board.. which helps us all with things like this..
(ahasher) It is good to hear that you "took the plunge" Did you say that you allready have a K&N inside the stock airbox?
There are several other "mods" have been said to improve the performance. Using the setup you now have, one guy cut additional holes in the lower portion of the stock airbox to allow more air to get to the filter.
These photos show a way of adding COLD AIR intake to the system you now possess.
HERE is another way of adding an intake to the 4.7L
HERE is yet another way of adding an intake to the 4.7L
Also... If you have Air Conditioning... There is a simple addition of some pipe-insulation to the proper locations that will greatly improve your AC performance and efficency.
I have been collecting URLs for almost 3 years now ;-)
yes I finished the mod you have.. using the 2 fernco pipes and a 6 inch length of 3 inch PVC. (it was about a 3 beer job. since it was 67 degrees outside and I took my time) Took all of a couple of hours to remove the old pieces and fit the new. They matched right up, and since the Fernco already had the hose clamps, it definitely is a clean setup. I havent painted the PVC yet, since I plan on taking the PVC out next weekend and beveling the inside lip of the PVC that faces the stock airbox, so it is a smooth flow instead of the lip of the pipe just stuck into the straight rubber adapter. Think that will help? Now I will be monitoring the performance/gas mileage for a few days to see the overall effect, but my first impression is it seems to have more power at highway speeds (such as passing). And yes i have the K&N in the stock box, and come warmer weather, I plan on insulating the AC lines, since you had very good results with it, and the New Orleans summers can be rough. BTW, How has your intake been performing.. mileage and performance?.. I have no formal way to evaluate it, just driver feel.
Well Macneil automotive send a complete set (left and right) mats. Good service, I asked for drivers side only but got them both. I suppose I can run this for a year and then when they wear out, try another brand.
I too, pulled the pipe section out and beveled BOTH inside ends to create smooth transition to/from the Fernco couplings.
I then used fine sandpaper on the outside of the pipe section to create some "tooth" for the 4 very light coats of aluminum spraypaint. It ended up looking like a brushed-aluminum pipe section.
I also beleive that the aluminum paint will tend to disapate any localized heat that the pipe is subjected to.
I noticed a bit of REDUCTION of low-end grunt but was rewarded with a nice intake sound when I blip the throttle and some high-RPM power improvement. No measureable change of MPG.
Did you allow for engine movement as the engine mounts flex under accelleration? Do not forget that the engine (measured at the TB) may move up to 2 inches side-to-side as you drive. The rubber of the Fernco couplings help from this perspective. (you do not want to put physical stress on the throttlebody)
THIS URL SHOWS HOLES IN THE LOWER PART OF THE FILTER BOX TO IMPROVE ENGINE BREATHIING
for Mopar Performance Parts I would only deal with Koller Dodge in Naperville, IL. they give a 25% discount off all orders (except funnycar bodies), phone, fax or otherwise. In fact, I've compared Koller's prices with those of my local dealer and I can get them from Koller cheaper than he can from DC. Here's a link, but I prefer phoneing them.
Great pictures of bed extender! I like projects like that, been thinking about building one myself, so I made a list and off to Home Depot, $42.59 later,(I used 1" pipe) I have all the parts! I added two supports in the middle. I'm going to fill the thick walled pvc pipe with expanding foam. That should add some strength. Not sure about attachment points yet? I'm looking at all the options?
THANKS!... please post pix of yours if you can.. I will probably make a next generation extender come warmer weather, using some of the ideas I compiled since my first attempt. The strength along the tail length bars being the biggest mod. The attaching points are still in work, altho my current setup works well, but my locking pin and sleeve hardware looks like it might be what I go with. The whole idea of this is low $$ but strong enough for what it will be used for.
bpeebles... I installed the cold air intake 2 weeks ago. Got the MPGs today for my last tankfull... 20.5 MPG (mostly highway.. oh, about80%)!!!! NO COMPLAINTS there. Excellent sound at highway speeds when I punch it to pass.. and I definetly have a power increase. Even seems better at low RPMs too. I bought the aluminum high heat paint.. and will paint it soon. Your home depot PVC and Fernco kit gets 2 thumbs up.... I dub myself a memebr of the Edmunds/QC home brew club... where brew has a double meaning (mopar67..labor has a new charge code hehehe)
yes, I have had a drop in K&N filter for a while now. I installed only the 3 piece intake and no other changes to the stock airbox. I did bevel the PVC.. seems anything to keep a smooth airflow cant hurt, but I am less bold when it comes to cutting open stock items, where I essentially cant undo if the results are not good. besides, just open holes facing the engine or even facing forward seems not a good idea. Possibly a screen insert or something to prevent stuff from entering the bottom of the box too easily (moisture/splashing, dirt/sand, etc). But with just over 20 MPGs and a DEFINETE improvement.. I believe I have time for research... so please keep positing your findings..
I did not make any mods to my aitbox either. I have considerd adding a length of hose from the airbox intake hole to the space beside the radiator. (yet undetermined hose type...perhaps flexable metal dryer hose?) The intent is to add a "cold air intake". Keep in mind that ANY way to allow the engine to breathe cooler air will improve power/MPG.
Comments
Ron35
Ron35
I'm looking to install a couple Maverick missiles on my QC. Placing them outboard will make the truck too wide. Should I lift the truck and place them under or mount them to the top of the truck ?!?
From the Rhino guy:
Its amazing that you do not want to give the simplest amount of information
but if we have no idea how our advertising is working and we have to raise
costs then everyone is in arms. It takes less time to fill out the
information that it does to send me the e mail. Go figure.
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2001 5:10 PM
To: info@rhinolinings.com
Subject: Rhino Linings General Inquiry
Below is the result of your feedback form.
It was submitted on 12/8/01 5:09:39 PM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
this is my original letter basically saying I thought their website was not customer friendly
Message: by putting a requirement for me to input your market research
before you let me find a local dealer,will point me to buy x liner instead
of considering your products.
The type which a person can keep the cap on the bed, but can still install or remove a ladder rack.
Thank you for any help.
Bob
http://www.amer-rac.com/light.htm
http://www.haulerracks.com/
http://www.travtruck.com/ladder_racks.htm
http://www.autostyles.com/luggageracks.htm
Hope this helps!
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
They have a cantilever model for mounting over
a cap. It appears though that if you remove the rack there will be 4 tabs sticking out at bed rail
height.
Jim H
Actual notes from Leon follow...
12/06/2001
....So give me a call at 800-719-8100 ext. 226 and I'll hook you guys up. I'm also willing to give everyone free shipping on ecerything else plus an additional 5% off not including the rotors.
12/18/2001
...Just wanted to thank everyone that partisipated in this group buy. It went so well I desided to extend this offer to the next 9 people that call me regarding this group buy will get the group buy price, and just a reminder these will also fit durangos.
Have you heard from the company you had been working with for the cold air intake? I tried to go to the website this AM and found it gone because of the Home.net thing. I still need to buy my QC her x-mas gift
thanks
"We are looking for some people who would buy at our cost the new tube and try it out and give us feedback at this time. We have a prototype working on a truck now but want to try it on some other trucks. As for a full time production we are not there yet. Still in the testing stage.
Thanks and we will keep you posted. Guice"
He mentioned to me they would roll out production in Jan. 2002 , I didn't get a price.
Ger
This was emailed to me from GUICE from gforcedrt@yahoo.com
I will check out the links.
Will post again when a decision is made.
Bob
On page 47 begins the article whereby the stock 65MM throttle body is replaced with a 68MM unit. The article goes on in great detail how to remove and replace the unit. Looks like a six pack job to me. They were even kind enough to provide the part number of the 68MM throttle body.
The downside? Well, there is none other than the small oversight as to exactly how much power was gained.
Another insight is the suggestion to replace the ribbed intake hose with a smooth one to gain add'l power. Again, they don't go into detail as to how much,but common sense would indicate that it couldn't hurt.
Finally, they offer some commentary about the 4.7 mostly positive; looks like its certainly garnering a good reputation.
Do not forget that the stock TB was increased from year 2000 to 2001 in the dakota too. So... the year of your Dakota matters with this upgrade to the 68MM unit.
Many of us have allready removed the stock intake plenum and "corragated" hose and replaced with $20 worth of stuff from Home Depot. As with many changes... low-RPM torque is traded for higher-RPM power. (and GREAT intake sound.)
The following is less than $20;
example 1
Here are some other renditions of 4.7L intakes;
example2
example3
i have a question.. I see 3 distinct sections: a rubber (?) adapter from the box to the next section, a straight section and an elbow to the TB. The straight section is PVC pipe?? and what is the elbow made from? I havent taken my OEM apart yet so havent seen under the "hood".
Finally the connection from the elbow to the straight piece is hard to see in the pic.. anotehr adapter?
I know it it looks simple, and comes recommended from yor experience but I figure I should have all the parts before i dismantle my intake path.
ALSO for anyone interested, while on PVC usage. I made a Bed Extender from PVC pipe (approx $35 with paint from Home Depot). Looks and works exactly like the over $200 aluminum versions. With some hardware to attach to the bed, it made a VERY cost effective alternative and already had 2 people aske if I can make them one.. hmmm what is the going labor rate for this mopar67?? 3 beers per hr? more/less? also watch that PVC glue.. keep the garage door OPEN LOL
Mounting to the bed is the spot I am working on still. I drilled a hole on each side and threaded a brass adapter (Pep Boys hydraulic line accesories..) where I can thread a 3/8 bolt into. With nylon washers I passed the bolt through the PVC at the appropriate spot where it can pivot as the metal versions and into the adapter. seems pretty darn secure to me. However, i want an easier way to remove it, without a crescent wrench.. and I have plans to replace the adapter with a non threaded collar (already have) and pass a locking pin (the kind with the ball bearing at one and a ring at the other) which I believe will give me the strength and quick removal feature I want.
Finally to secure to the tail.. I am looking at some plates to secure straps to but till the weather gets better.. a long bungee from gate latch over the first PVC bar (mine is 3 rows of pipe tall.. same as the aluminum) and back works quite well.
I will borrow a digital camera shortly to take pics. Thanks for the feedback.. I had fun building it.
The short length of black pipe in the photo is not PVC instead, it is made of ABS which is said to be less susceptable to shattering in cold wether. The ABS piping is found in the commerical ELECTRICAL area of Home Depot. (used for conduit)
Personally, I used PVC piping painted with aluminum spraypaint. Other than that, my setup is EXACTLY like THIS.
The main thing to remember is to NOT purchase any mats that are stapled together on a cardboard "hanger". After removing the staples... there WILL be leaks. (stupid packaging)
the link is:
http://home.bellsouth.net/personalpages/PWP-ruscoe
AND I finally bought the materials for the cold air intake bpeebles showed.. going to install this weekend.
Good job.
Market this as "Ahashers Ultimate Bed extender"
Farm it out to Mexico where you can pay a buck an hour and keep the rest as profit. Then you can do an IPO, and keep several million shares and ...............
Oh heck, enjoy it!
and if I rememer, it was about a 12 pk over the weekend to finish. altho it took more since I dry fitted and adjusted for a while before gluing...
Ok, since you and I seem to have found cures for our shaky,lumpy and screwy idle issues, its time for us to relinquish our titles as idel jesters.
I don't rightly know what kind of title we can assume going forward.
BTW, have been watching closely with the onset of winter here in good old PA and the idle is solid as a rock. So, the fix works in warm AND cold weather too! How about that?
Way to go DC! I knew all along they could build a truck that ran well in summer and winter!
I made a boat rack at one time using galvenized conduit. I inserted 1/2" conduit inside 3/4" conduit for strength. It would hold quite a heavy load without flexing. Rick
I am looking for aftermarket running boards for my new QC. They'll help my 3 yr old get in and protect my rocker panels which are getting pumeled by all the gravel they use on the streets! I want a black, plastic, or aluminum model (not fiberglass) anybody have any suggestions???
AND..iowabigguy....yes, your idea to insert a metal pipe would solve the problem, making it was long enough to be supported on the 2 outside legs. I havent made any changes yet, but since its already glued.. I have to cut the pipe to either insert something or add a leg.. but your pipe idea seems cleaner and since I like the look of the 3 bars without an extra support.. I can add an extra coupling at the ends to reglue the pipe back together.. should look just fine. new builds should include it before gluing.
I will put your suggestion to use.. THANKS!
mopar67, IDLE smooth with a couple of below 30 degree mornings.. so seems like the IDLE jesting days are over...
and I installed the Home-Depot cold air ducting this past weekend. $22 for the Fernco pieces and some 3 inch PVC pipe.. very easy procedure.. and i will see how it responds in The next few days of commuting..
Ron35
Obviously this is a work in progress but alot of fun to mess with. However the current bolt threaded into a collar works well for now.. and infact seems quite strong for my uses.. since I cargo strap large items if it is in use.
So I appreciate any input and suggestions.. There is a wealth of engineering and mechanical knowledge on this board.. which helps us all with things like this..
There are several other "mods" have been said to improve the performance. Using the setup you now have, one guy cut additional holes in the lower portion of the stock airbox to allow more air to get to the filter.
These photos show a way of adding COLD AIR intake to the system you now possess.
HERE is another way of adding an intake to the 4.7L
HERE is yet another way of adding an intake to the 4.7L
Also... If you have Air Conditioning... There is a simple addition of some pipe-insulation to the proper locations that will greatly improve your AC performance and efficency.
I have been collecting URLs for almost 3 years now ;-)
(it was about a 3 beer job. since it was 67 degrees outside and I took my time) Took all of a couple of hours to remove the old pieces and fit the new. They matched right up, and since the Fernco already had the hose clamps, it definitely is a clean setup. I havent painted the PVC yet, since I plan on taking the PVC out next weekend and beveling the inside lip of the PVC that faces the stock airbox, so it is a smooth flow instead of the lip of the pipe just stuck into the straight rubber adapter. Think that will help? Now I will be monitoring the performance/gas mileage for a few days to see the overall effect, but my first impression is it seems to have more power at highway speeds (such as passing). And yes i have the K&N in the stock box, and come warmer weather, I plan on insulating the AC lines, since you had very good results with it, and the New Orleans summers can be rough. BTW, How has your intake been performing.. mileage and performance?.. I have no formal way to evaluate it, just driver feel.
Good service, I asked for drivers side only but got them both.
I suppose I can run this for a year and then when they wear out, try another brand.
I then used fine sandpaper on the outside of the pipe section to create some "tooth" for the 4 very light coats of aluminum spraypaint. It ended up looking like a brushed-aluminum pipe section.
I also beleive that the aluminum paint will tend to disapate any localized heat that the pipe is subjected to.
I noticed a bit of REDUCTION of low-end grunt but was rewarded with a nice intake sound when I blip the throttle and some high-RPM power improvement. No measureable change of MPG.
Did you allow for engine movement as the engine mounts flex under accelleration? Do not forget that the engine (measured at the TB) may move up to 2 inches side-to-side as you drive. The rubber of the Fernco couplings help from this perspective. (you do not want to put physical stress on the throttlebody)
THIS URL SHOWS HOLES IN THE LOWER PART OF THE FILTER BOX TO IMPROVE ENGINE BREATHIING
http://y42.edit.photos.yahoo.com/bc/callmecc/lst?.dir=/My+Dakota
on internet parts orders?
Thanks.
Mick
for Accessories:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/wyckoff-chrysler-parts/index.html
for Mopar Performance Parts I would only deal with Koller Dodge in Naperville, IL. they give a 25% discount off all orders (except funnycar bodies), phone, fax or otherwise. In fact, I've compared Koller's prices with those of my local dealer and I can get them from Koller cheaper than he can from DC. Here's a link, but I prefer phoneing them.
http://www.worldparts.com/kollerdodge/
http://www.wyckoff-mopar-parts.com/dakfacserman.html
like that, been thinking about building one myself, so I made a list and off to Home Depot,
$42.59 later,(I used 1" pipe) I have all the parts! I added two
supports in the middle. I'm going to fill the thick walled pvc pipe with expanding foam. That
should add some strength. Not sure about attachment points yet? I'm looking at all the options?
I bought the aluminum high heat paint.. and will paint it soon. Your home depot PVC and Fernco kit gets 2 thumbs up....
I dub myself a memebr of the Edmunds/QC home brew club... where brew has a double meaning (mopar67..labor has a new charge code hehehe)
on their Dakota Quad?
This is the type cover I want? But have not
seen one in person. Would like to see it before
buying one.
Any comments are welcome.
Web site is http://www.kcovers.com/twopanel.html
or simular,,,
mick
Bob
http://www.wyckoff-mopar-parts.com/dakfacserman.html
Read it well my friend.
Did you do the "additional holes in lower section of filter housing" mod too? (or anything special to the INTAKE part of the filter housing)
But with just over 20 MPGs and a DEFINETE improvement.. I believe I have time for research... so please keep positing your findings..
(yet undetermined hose type...perhaps flexable metal dryer hose?) The intent is to add a "cold air intake".
Keep in mind that ANY way to allow the engine to breathe cooler air will improve power/MPG.