Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

bonnie_rickbonnie_rick Member Posts: 115
edited May 2014 in Dodge
etc. have you found necessary/helpful for your

Bonnie Rick
Conferences Manager, Town Hall


  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    Without fender flares the truck just looks naked.

    Spoke with a Club Cab owner last evening and he said the flender flairs kept a lot of road grime off the truck. He had installed the R/T lowering kit and wide tires.

    My flares were supposed to be here last week. Still waiting.....
  • colbatescolbates Member Posts: 37
    A bed liner of some sort. 2nd day of having my vehicle I put a couple sheets of plywood and the next day a cooler. Instant scratches. Not a problem though, truck was schedualed to have a Rhino liner installed the following week. I love it. 3K miles later and two camping/fishing trips and no scratches, and so far easy to maintain/clean. I've heard horror stories of not being able to repair spray in liners, but the owner of the company that sold me the Rhino Liner told me he would do free repairs as long as I owned the vehicle.

    Another must have for me since I like to camp and fish I needed a boat rack for my canoe. I don't want a permanent luggage rack type so my options were limited. Of Yakima and Thule only Yakima currently offers a removeable solution. I also found impressive solutions at and However, I chose the following a removable Yakima half-rack to go over the rear passenger doors, and a Fulton Canoe caddy (T-bar that mounts to the trailer ball mount on the rear bumper). The Fulton Canoe Caddy is available at Too soon to tell if the canoe caddy is the solution for me, but it looks good and the whole system (Yakima and caddy) was just over $200.

    I have Smittybuilt Sure Step bars on order. I'm also considering getting a Safari Bar for the front, Window vent visors, and the door sill guards. I'm also looking for some mud and snow floor mats that I like the looks of. (I don't like the looks of the Husky liners)
  • jpwoodrowjpwoodrow Member Posts: 7
    We get a lot of them here in the Northeast, especially at night. I installed some Lund stainless steel grill and bumper inserts last week. They do a great job keeping bugs and stones out of the radiator, and they look good too.
  • yooper_romadyooper_romad Member Posts: 11
    Resent additions:
    K&N replacement filter, notice improvement in high end response.

    Wagner Xenon bright lights headlight bulbs - the only thing that Dodge needs from Daimler is some headlight technology. Dodge is concistantly slammed for their lights. As a long time MOPAR owner this is true.

    Mud Flaps - even with the factory flares dirt still all up the sides. Rear, are regular rectangular truck type with anti-sail bars - gotta keep the trailer clean. Front small rubber standard flares.

    Locking rack for HI - Lift jack, don't leave home without it!
  • david150david150 Member Posts: 5
    Just got a '00 Dakota. Should I get a drop in liner or a spray in and cap or no cap? Opinions/suggestions? Thanks.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    David, I have a drop in Tuffliner in my Quad, as it has slots that allow me to divide the bed into 3 sections using 2X12 boards. I purchased the liner on Route 130 in Burlington, NJ at the truck shop there. I also have an A.R.E. tonneau cover made from fiberglass and color matched. But David, you must choose what works best and suits your particular needs and budget. A.R.E. also offers a $20.00 coupon on their web site.

  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    Depends on how you plan on using your truck.

    A drop in liner will distribute weight and blows from dropped firewood, cinder blocks, engines, other heavy loads thereby reducing or eleveating dents in the bed. The drawback is that they do shimie and shake in the bed causing abraision rubs on the paint. Water, sand, dirt can and does get between the liner and the bed agravating the abrasion factor.

    A spray on liner becomes the top layer of the truck and is not removable. It is easy to wash, reduces load sliding and provides some protection against dents from heavy loads. You can still use all the built in features of the bed like the slots to stop load shifting and for load supporting across the wheel wells. Available in a variety of colors but the manufacuters tend to stear you toward basic black since the other colors may fade and are not always a true match to your truck color.

    Cap vs. No Cap Depends on the size of the loads you plan on carrying and if you need lockable space. No cap and a locking truck tool box would still provide a "locking trunk" but leave the bed available for hauling. A cap provides a weather proof covered area that can be locked. Available with all sorts of ammenities like flossing (carpeting), lights, sliding windows, hinged windows, screens, etc. Caps can be removed. Typically only require four C clamps. Caps weigh about 150 lbs so require two people to lift, not because of the weight but the bulky size.

    Bed height covers are available in both soft and hard style. Depending on how accessible and style you like.
  • tpmillertpmiller Member Posts: 45
    Friend rigged up a simple overhead pully system in his garage and was able to place/remove cap singlehandidly.
    I have received a lot of compliments on the "BedRug" I installed, which I critiqued in one of the Dak posts about a month ago. Overall, find it to be a nice compromise between spray or drop-in liner.
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    Looked at the Bedrug product. Had them send me a sample in the mail. Looked like it would hold up to abuse and provide significant comfort. I was leary about having to vacum my cargo area. I did think it would be nice for camping.

    How has yours held up? Does it require much cleaning to keep it looking nice? How do the tie downs work? Do they stick thru or bolt over top the bedrug? How does the Bedrug end at the top of the tailgate? Do you have a tailgate rail? Does the rug fit over or under the tailgate rail?
  • david150david150 Member Posts: 5
    You guys are the best! I am starting to get a better picture of what I am going to get. Thanks for the suggestions.
  • newquadnewquad Member Posts: 33
    Check out the project vehicle (site commander) under the cap company ARE's website. Very cool. I am thinking of having one of those retractable truck beds for my two dog crates I carry. My one reluctance was to get a cap for the truck, and have to climb and clamber in it to get both dogs (German Shepherds) and crates in there. Sounds like a great idea to have a "slide out" bed.

    Also, for those who transport dogs in the back of a truck with a cap, does the air conditioning reach them with the sliding window on both the cap and truck?? Just wondering what kind of window arrangement I need for maximum ventilation especially in hot weather.
  • gbilhimergbilhimer Member Posts: 53
    I got a Line-X spray in for my Quad. I had a Ford with a drop in liner and hated it. My dad has a ext. cab Dakota with the Bedrug and a fiberglass cover. I must say it is nice and would be my choice if I was going to cover the bed with a cover or shell. I haul dirtbikes in my bed so the Line-X was a good choice for my situation. I guess it all just depends on your planned truck useage. By the way the spray in cost me $350
  • tpmillertpmiller Member Posts: 45
    Cleans out with a hose. Comes in 2 peices, sides and front, zipped together with bottom and tailgate. One sided tape, velcro. Fit is good,under rail, does not go over top of gate. I removed the tie downs, cut out rug with utility knife and replaced. The way the tiedowns are situated, the rear cuts come close to the zipper, took maybe an hour for install. The only real fault is the zipper head (zipper is on underside),which I taped up to prevent scratches to the bed. Eventually will be putting tonneau on, but not necessary. I like it.
  • yooper_romadyooper_romad Member Posts: 11
    I have an A.R.E. cap with the "flipper" side windows and a sliding front window. With the side windows and front slider open I've been told by one of my men that the a/c reaches all the way to the rear. And that is in central Texas so I'm confident that it will work just as well for dogs, my two didn't seem to mind a recent trip to San Angelo and back. They usually let me know if they are not happy.
  • playhard_50playhard_50 Member Posts: 8
    I just recently purchased a Dakota X-cab. I'm looking to get an over-the-rail Line-X liner. My question is: does the over-the-rail liner prevent me from putting a cap on at some point in the future?

    The Line-X dealer said he didn't THINK it would be a problem, but he wasn't too convincing.

    Any first hand knowledge or experience would be appreciated.


  • yooper_romadyooper_romad Member Posts: 11
    I have an over the rail Diamond Liner along with my A.R.E. cap and they work well together. Your cap should be installed with a sealer tape between it and the bed rail and if the Line-X has a relatively smooth finish like the Diamond Liner you shouldn't have any sealing problems. One of the benefits with the over the rail is that the tailgate is protected from the lift door of the cap rubbing against it.
  • steve234steve234 Member Posts: 460
    If you run with both sliders open to let the a/c get back to the dogs, check with the cap dealer or an RV dealer for a pass through seal. They make a foam seal that fits between the vehicle and cap to make an efficient arrangement. You can also place a 12v fan in the opening to maximize the cooling effct, but it doesn't get that hot in SF.
  • playhard_50playhard_50 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone have an aftermarket source for same-color (Patriot Blue) side molding for a 2000 Club cab?

    Thanks in advance,

  • newquadnewquad Member Posts: 33
    Thanks all for the advice on caps and dogs. I am planning on getting the ARE CX model with the 1/4 sliders and front sliding window. The cap dealer said he spoke with a vet and she said that the 1/4 sliders are plenty ventilation for the dogs. And I plan on using the inflatable thingy or foam thingy between the cap and truck on those really hot days (I travel to Livermore with the dogs, and it gets hot out there in the summer).
    Thanks again!
  • wbournewbourne Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if it is possible to mount tow hooks on a '00' Dakota. They come in handy for clearing brush and fallen trees.
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    I looked at the Durango and they have color coded body side molding. It appears to have the color encasulated in clear plastic bonded to the black rubber molding. The front doors should be the same size as the Durango. The back doors are pretty close. If not close enough, you could order 4 front door molding and trim for the rear doors.

    I have the two tone (silver rocker panels) paint scheme. The black molding is not what I want.
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    In one of the older DAK topics someone mentioned that under the rear passenger side of the spare tire is a "Y" in the wiring harness. There is a single wire pigtale with a label "CHMSL" (Center High Mounted Stop Lamp??). They were going to test and confirm but never seemed to get back to the topic.

    Can anyone with the Big Orange Book confirm or deny that this pigtail is prewired for the center mount brake light? I am having a bed cap installed this week and they want to splice into the tail lights. I to have this pigtail and it seems like this would be a much easier and better choice. Could Dodge possibly have foreseen this need and prewired for a Cyclops break light?
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    On the Quad the pigtail is tucked up between the spare and the bumper on the passenger side. It is labled CHMSL. I had a Leer topper put on my Quad and they used the pigtail. They were going to splice into the lights for the topper dome light. I would not let them hook it up. I'm going to tap into the 7 wire connector for the trailer hookup ( I have the trailer tow package) there is a 12 volt source with a 40amp fuse that will work just fine for me. Rick
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Member Posts: 552
    PS, I was told by the topper installer that most trucks made since 93 have a pigtail for the third light from the factory.
  • 99slt99slt Member Posts: 14
    I'm looking for heavy vinyl bed-rail guards. Mopar makes a checker-plate chrome guard, but I'm looking for one similar to those made by FFFFFFFord (just can't say that word). Also looking for a ladder rack (side mounted) not one that goes over the the whole bed. Does any have any experience with either of these two after market items? Thanks in advance.
  • quark99quark99 Member Posts: 136
    My dealer quoted me $48 apiece for the color-matched molding strips, thats $200 for all four for the Quad, ouch...
    (that's after the 10% DC owner discount, regularly $53 apiece) It seems rather steep...and
    I thought the $30 for the 4 sill protectors was expensive....guess I'm looking for some aftermarket stuff, too..
  • vmanvman Member Posts: 103
    I went to an auto paint supply store. The top aftermarket moulding manufacturer seems to be Pro Stripe. The guy let me take his sample book out to the parking lot to compare with the truck. The book actually had a Dodge section that seemed to match OEM styles pretty well. I have a sport, so black was the ticket, but for $45, there was enough material to do both sides front to back. Just thought I'd toss that in if it will help.

    BTW, for sport owners, the Pro Stripe M-104 ties in beautifully with the black section of the rear bumper.
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    Thanks for the confirmation about the CHMSL pigtail. I will make sure the bed cap installer knows about it. They offered a 12 volt light and they were going to steal power from the brake lights. I did not like the idea of that.

    I also had a sinking feeling that someone would inadvertantly leave the light on in the bed and drain the battery. I asked if the installer would tie into the bed light mounted on the cab so that I could control the light from inside the cab. He responded "Why would you want to turn the light on from inside the cab when you will be looking in the bed?" 1) I have a rear sliding window so the kids can reach into the bed from inside the cab while riding to get stuff. 2)So that it is part of the vehicle lighting system that turns itself off automagically after 15 minutes so I don't drain the battery. 3)Because I am the customer and that is what I want. Anyway the installer refused on the grounds it was too complicated for them to figure out.

    Instead I ordered the cap with two battery lights. One center rear, one center forward. Basically a flashlight screwed to the roof of the cap. One for access from the rear sliding window and one for access from the tailgate. I anticipate using up a few batteries when one gets left on by accident but at least the vehicle will start. Hey, that is why Sam's sells batteries in 12 packs.
  • vmanvman Member Posts: 103
    Hmmmm.... Some of those touch lite things might do well for that application.

    Accessory Review:

    I just installed the BAK rail caps. Nice product, but I'm a little disappointed with the final appearance. There is some variation in mine that makes one side seem shorter than the other. Starting from the back during installation, there's no way to adjust this. Also, the lines (when looking down the outside of the bed) are somewhat crooked and seem to drop towards the rear. Not a huge problem, just annoying. My truck had a dealer installed pin stripe and the caps visually throw the lines off a little.
  • tjumptjump Member Posts: 14
    Last week I received and installed the rack on my Quad Cab. The basic rack is composed of a pair of rails that mount on the bed-rails. The rack comes in two forms, one that mounts with bolts vertical through the top of the bed rails, and one that mounts with bolts horizontal through the inside lip of the bed rails (I have the latter). While the adverts & online catalog (at do not have this length shown, the rack rails come pre-made in a length specifically for the Quad Cab and require no preparation on the owner's part prior to installation. The rack rails are made of aluminum, coated in black (electrolytically I think, it is NOT paint). The inside lip nearly covers the inside lip of the bed rail, providing it good protection IMHO from stuff carried in the bed. Mounting the rails after my Mopar drop-in under-rail bed cover was installed was no problem. The kit THEORETICALLY comes with all mounting hardware (stainless steel bolts and nylock-insert locking nuts) and a single-sheet of instructions - I say theoretically because rackwarehouse actually omitted them from my package - they are sending me a kit however, after the fact as it is. I just ran out to Lowes and bought some appropriate hardware because I needed to get the rack on the truck. The package that I received additionally came with Yakima bicycle rack components (locking RailRider towers, cross-bars, and Boa bike mounts).

    Mounting is simple: place the rack rail on the side of the bed, hold it in place, drill pilot holes with a 1/8" bit, and then final holes with a 1/4" bit. Once the holes are drilled, bolt the rack rail to the truck bed and that is it. Repeat for other rail. I do not know if the hardware kit comes with any "friction tape" or equivalent, but in my personal paranoia I did not want the possibility of vibration between the rails and the truck bed, so I put some neoprene washers between the rails and the truck (fixed to the rails with Goop adhesive). This will have the additional advantage of allowing any water that gets between the rails and the truck to more easily evaporate.

    Once the rack rails are installed, putting the Yakima RailRider towers on and the rest of the bicycle rack hardware was dead-simple (much easier than clamp-on Yakima roof rack that I've been using on my Honda for the last five years). With the Yakima lock-cores installed, I now have the capability of completing locking the bikes attached to the truck. Good "keep honest people honest" security.

    The rack looks good, particularly with the over-the-top bed-front and tailgate portions of the Mopar cover, and is doing a good job of protecting the sides rails of the bed, both inner lip and top. The width of the rack will easily accomodate three forward facing mountain bikes, five or six if interleaved forward-backward. With both Yakima rails used to support the bikes front and back, everything would be elevated above the bed rails, leaving the truck bed for other cargo.

    After using this for two weeks I am very happy with the configuration from all three sides (strength, security, and looks).

    I am only "middling" impressed with RackWarehouse. The took almost two weeks to get the stuff to me via UPS (they are in N.H., I am in Texas), they forgot the mounting hardware & instructions - but faxed the instructions to me when asked and are sending me the hardware. Their prices were good, hopefully the lack that I experienced was an anomoly.

  • jones27jones27 Member Posts: 42
    I also installed a bike rack, but with no extra drilling. I installed a Rhode Gear rear hitch bike rack that slides into a standard 2" hitch receiver and tightens up with the twirl of a lever. It takes 30 seconds to install and remove. Mount the bikes and secure with straps. The rack also has a locking bar for security. This rack enabled me to use the entire bed of truck for other things.

    I transported two bikes 500 miles and back again during my vacation. Have used other bike racks in the past, including racks that mount inside a truck bed and I have to say......this is the best I ever used!
  • tjumptjump Member Posts: 14
    I thought about the hitch-mounted rack for a while, but decided against it because of planned events in a year or so which would require the hitch + racking capabilities.

    I also prefer to leave the back end of the vehicle clear of equipment I care about in case some idiot decides that their vehicle wants to try to merge with mine. Paranoid? A little. Would insurance cover the bikes? Probably. Do I want to go w/o my MTB for a couple weeks to find out? Definitely NOT. ;^)

    BTW: The rack, when properly used, completely elevates the bikes above the top of the bed rails. While this does impose some limitations on the height of stuff in the bed, this does leave the bed completely empty and the back of the vehicle completely unemcumbered.

    The hitch-mount racks are cool though, nice and easy to take off when not in use.
  • guannerguanner Member Posts: 31
    Bike racks.. You might want to check with your insurance co. to see if they cover your bikes fully if you get rearended. mine said no, so we got the yakamia rack for the honda few years back. it has sence made its way to the top of the Quad.. Just some thing to check into..

  • david150david150 Member Posts: 5
    New Pendaliner went in last Saturday. Camein handy for several loads. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    That's a GREAT point. I forget about that kind of thing all the time. Trailers are another area to look into, and guess what? Same thing... My ins. co. will replace everything in or on my trailer when it's attacked or injured by another vehicle or if I hit another object (with comprehensive). BUT anything stolen out of or off of the trailer at any time is not covered UNLESS the trailer is padlocked to the truck and the stuff stolen is padlockled to the trailer. Weird.
  • 99slt99slt Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for the info on the BAK Liner website. The "ProCaps" are just what I was looking for. The literature says they are paintable. I'll check it out and advise.
  • haasmanhaasman Member Posts: 5
    As of 7/21/00 the SUN TACH 2 will not work with this engine. I tried and got erroneous needle readings. Talked to the manufacturer an he said that they are 2 years behind of what's on market. He suggested AUTOMETER but I haven't seen one to work with this application. haasman
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    If you put a cap on the bed, think real hard about including WinDoors.

    I had an A.R.E. CH (Cab Height) cap installed on the bed two weeks ago. I paid for a few upgrades when ordering. Two interior battery operated interior lights (BOIL), Light Grey Carpeting (Platinum Floss), sliding rear window, and 2 Windoors.

    WinDoors are ARE's term for side windows that open like the rear entry. They have two T-handles with keyed locks. The window is hinged at the top and opens upward with assistance from two gas shocks. Approximately 12 inches high by 48 inches long.

    The cap was installed Tuesday afternoon and I took the Quad for a road trip Friday morning. 1800 miles round trip from Raleigh North Carolina to Upstate New York. Loading and unloading was so easy since I could reach all the way to the front of the bed from either side via access of the WinDoors. They give me access to the entire bed with no crawling in. Well worth the $100 per window.

    They may not look quite as sexy as some of the other styles but they sure are useful. Function over form.

    For comparison, here is what they quoted.

    ARE CH cap $895
    Rear sliding window $50
    Battery Light $10 each
    Carpeting (Floss) $115
    WinDoors $100 each
    Rear Brake Light $30
    Upgraded foam gasket $25

    As mentioned in another post, I happened to speak to the owner on the phone when calling around for price quotes. Mentioned I was shopping price. He quoted much lower prices than when I went in and talked to salesperson. Got him on the phone and he honored his phone quote.

    Salesperson wrote up the ticket and prices changed to:

    ARE CH cap $895
    Rear sliding window Free
    Battery Light $10 each
    Carpeting (Floss) $115
    WinDoors $75 each
    Rear Brake Light Free
    Upgraded foam gasket $25

    Handy Andy's of Garner, North Carolina did a fine job of installing the cap. Wiring for the third brake light included inline fuses for both the ground and the hot. Very neat and tidy. They also changed out the locks so that all 5 were the same (the rear lock was different from the side locks when delivered).

    The battery lights are pretty lame but useful at night. The carpeting really finishes off the inside of the cap. Looks like a custom headliner. Cap installer said some people get fiberglass splinters that don't have the carpeting.

    ARE did a nice job of making the cap fit the body styling including a little wave near the where the bed meets the cab. Follows way the bed wraps around the cab. Overall I am pleased with the result.
  • bsparxbsparx Member Posts: 84
    I've got the leer 100 cap on my quad, with the sliding windows. Wish I'd spent the $$ for their version of the ARE 'windoors' they would make life easier. Bought the quad after several full-size Fords, though, so I'm even more used to scrambling up into the back, and used to reaching even farther inside to rescue the apple or dog toy which rolled up to the front...

    On racks, I put the small raingutter-like pieces on the sides of the shell, but I haven't tried tha canoe yet, because of the hang over the cab. Anyone else dealt with this yet? I have some Thules also, from Ford Exploder days, I'm hoping they come up with a fit. On the exploder, the system was rather ingenious, instead of clipping over (and squishing) the weatherstripping like the Yakima, they provided a screw and a small 3" wide clip. You were to drill out one of the weatherstripping rivets, install the clip behind the weatherstripping, where it was designed to be a perfect fit against the frame (it was) and then screw the weatherstrip back into the same hole, through the clip also. The foot then, sat on the edge of the roof but pulled against the clip...worked very well, strong as could be, and no leaks in the 5 years they were on that vehicle. I think the same would work for the DD QC.

    Anybody ever had one of Cabela's truck back tents? In my old trucks, sleeping in the back after a long hike or before early morning waterfowling was no problem, as the beds were 6.5 or 8 feet. In the quad, however... At you can follow the prompts to:

    Location: Storefront : Automotive/ATV : Vehicle Accessories : Exterior Vehicle Accessories : Camper Top Tent

    and see what I'm talking about. It looks good, but I'd be more confident if I heard from someone who's used one...


  • newquadnewquad Member Posts: 33
    Thanks for the info on the windoors. I have been waiting around to get my cap, just trying to figure out the best combination. I am going to get the ARE cap, just not sure which one. Thing is, I carry two German Shepherds in crates in my truck right now. I have to turn them sideways next to each other to fit. I was thinking of getting a windoor on one side of the cap, and a sliding window for ventilation on the other. Two windoors would give them no ventilation while traveling, so I don't want to do them both. But one windoor would be great, so I can have easy access to the crates to move them around, and also for better ventilation once stopped. I compete with my dogs, so they spend 8 hrs or so in and out of the crates on a weekend day. So,what do you think? Would it look OK to have one windoor only??
  • 99slt99slt Member Posts: 14
    I purchased BAK Liner Pro Caps locally from Summit Racing in Akron Ohio after reading vman and 96g11 posts. I was going to paint them to match the truck but decided against it for looks and maintenance reasons. Anyway, I had the same problem as vman with lining the rail caps up properly. The right side does not fit the rear rounded corner of the bed and appears to dip and not align with the tailgate cap rail. The left side was perfect. Long story short: I removed my mistake with a pliable plastic utensil to fit up under the cap and break the adhesive seal. I then cleaned all the residue adhesive off with goo-gone. The adhesive is by 3M (part # 06377) and the promoter sponge applicator is part #06396. You can get them at CarQuest, NAPA, Auto Value, etc. The second time I got it perfect. This post is just a note of warning to anyone thinking about the BAK liner Pro caps. They look GREAT after they're install correctly.
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    The quarter and half side sliding window look just like the windoors. The difference is the windoor has 2 T-handles and the sliders have a vertical/diagonal seam at quarter or half length. You will never see both sides at once, from the outside at least, so I doubt anyone would notice that you have two different style windows.

    If you get the rear sliding window and leave it open, the air will enter at the front of the bed cap and exit through the side slider window providing good air exchange while driving.

    ARE puts their logo sticker on the bottom rear corner of the cap. It is silver lettering on a black background with a 3d clear covering. Looks very similiar to the Quad Cab logo on the cab. Seems to complement each other well.
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    Bought my quad one week before my birthday. The wife got me the door sills as a present. I have the two tone paint scheme. I noticed in just the few days before I installed the door sills several scratches and dirt on the light driftwood (silver) sills.

    I have the agate (black) interior and the door sills do not seem to look like afterthoughts. They look like they are orginal equipment. $30 seems steep for four plastic strips but they provide excellent protection to the paint.

    Easy to install. Wipe the vehicle with alcohol, place the guards on the truck, peel the cover off the two sided tape. Stand back and admire your work.
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    Hey, what type of door sills did you buy and where did you get them? Thanks
  • tiltboytiltboy Member Posts: 63
    I know this was discussed somewhere earlier, but my laziness prevents me from searching for it. I have a 4X4 QC with flares and was wondering what mud flaps to get. What installs the easiest and where can I get them. Thanks again!
  • vmanvman Member Posts: 103
    Sill guards:, item number AVS88249. I spoke to Amanda on the phone. Excellent product by Auto Vent Shade. Once they are installed, they look like they've always been there--you never see them.

    mud flaps: I still have to get those. If I recall, there are two mopar options. Anybody have the part numbers?
  • vmanvman Member Posts: 103
    Good job on the BAK's. I'm leaving mine alone for now. The thing that confused me was that both of the rear corners lined up (per instructions), but I have about 1/8 inch difference at the front. It seemed that one of the caps itself was moulded a little funny. I figure one day it will annoy me enough to re-do. I plan on getting the 3M tape and applying IT to the truck and hopefully allowing a little more freedom to line up the caps before installing. One thing I'll say, once the tape hits that adhesion promoter, shows over!
  • resqmanresqman Member Posts: 71
    My wife got the guards at the local dealer. They have the ram's head branded into the plastic. I say branded because it looks like they just took a branding iron in the shape of a ram's head logo, heated it up, and pressed it into the plastic. You can probably get the plastic door sills from the true manufacturer without the rams head logo. No idea who the manufacturer is since I through away the packing as soon as they were installed.
  • spike50spike50 Member Posts: 481
    Because I wanted a real yellow foglight rather than the factory units, I purchased a pair of Catz MSC's. These are 3.5" in diameter and come with all of the wiring and basic mounting brackets. The dealer cut out the blank foglight depressions for free and did a good job.

    I spent at least 8 hrs fashioning wooden blocks out of treated lumber and attached these to the triangular braces that come off of the frame rails where the factory units would hang. Glad I have all of the tools to do a good job - in wood. Had to remove everything each time to finally get these centered in the apron holes and to get the proper set back. Because the foglight brackets aren't easily adjustable while mounted, I'll have to remove the whole thing (light attached to the block of wood) to address any alignment issues.

    These aren't functional yet because I haven't decided how to get the control switch wires through the firewall for the final hook-up. Any ideas on where to run a wire or two through the firewall without drilling ???

    I temporarily hooked them up by running some wires right off of the battery. These lights gave excellent coverage. I also like the way they look when off - purple and yellow lens / bulb. Would have been nice if a real Dakota bracket was available.
  • tjumptjump Member Posts: 14

    One of the nice things about the factory add-on lights was that you get a new light switch that is (AFAIK) the same as that which comes with Quads that are built with the lamps. You may want to talk to your local parts dept to see if you can get the switch and the info on how the wires are run. Would be most cool to have your Catz lights run by the factory switch. ;^)

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