I have an A.R.E. CH cap for my Quad. The side windows are not as sexy looking as the CX or CZ but they offered me more function.
You can order the CH with "WinDoors". A window that is hinged at the top and opens upward like the tail gate window. Gives you full access to the bed from the sides. $75-$100 a piece depending on your negoiating skill ;^) I thought it was extremely expensive for one piano hinge and two locks but it has been well worth it. I use them everytime I put something it the bed, which seems to be daily.
Got my Quad mid June just before a summer filled with 5 road trips. The family has 5500 miles of road trips under the belt since then. Loading, unloading, and adjusting the load with the WinDoors is a joy. You can get to stuff way up front near the cab just as easy as the stuff near the tailgate. For all the stuff you thought you would not need and buried, you can get to without climbing in the back and over top of everything.
The color match is perfect. The styling fits the truck well. I have had people ask if it is an OEM top.
I ordered mine with two interior battery operated lights. Never used them. At $10 a piece not a big deal and I have only had the cap 2 months. They don't take up any real space and maybe someday they will be useful.
I also got the carpeting (floss). Adds a finished appearance. My truck is an around town family car. I haul lumber, mulch, bedding plants, typical homeowner weekend project stuff. Carpeting is definitley not a "gotta have" but it dresses it up. Makes the cargo area more SUV like.
Even if you don't have a sliding window in the truck, get one in the cap. I leave my slider open on the cap all the time and it provides ventilation. Even in a heavy downpour, very little water enters the bed. A few drops. I washed the bed out with a hose after a trip to the beach. Closed up all the windows on the cap. Next day I had a terrian. All the windows were fogged over and the inside was still wet. Opened the slider and by the end of the day it was dry and clear.
Look back through some of the earlier posts. I put in a lengthy post about the cap the week after I got it. I explained the difference between the CH, CX, and ZX models from A.R.E.
My Dad just had a spray-in Rhino Liner done at Ziebart on his Intense Blue 2000 Dakota Reg Cab. Please allow me to vent a little, hopefully for the benefit of someone down the line.
What a $415 crappy job they did. I know there have been posts about the skill level of those spraying affecting final quality but this is ridiculous and pathetic.
His liner is; soft, has bubbles, sloppy finishing on edges, two of three drain holes at front of box plugged, "drips" around bottom of tailgate and front edge of box. It seems like it would easily gouge. The spray is all lumpy, especially across the top of the tailgate. Reminds me of how latex paint looks when sprayed too heavy though a Wagner power sprayer. The only difference is that even latex flows out to some degree. The Rhino dumper didn't.
Coverage on the front of the box is poor and blue paint is showing through in spots. My Dad pointed that out when he picked it up and they offered to take it inside and spray some black PAINT on it. Stupid answer #1. He declined.
He also pointed out the plugged drain holes. The Ziebart "professional" stuck his pocket knife through the dried goop and indicated it wasn't plugged. Stupid answer #2. Well, as soon as he pulled his knife out, the hole closed. This liner is more like silicone rubber!
I plan on taking my truck to Ziebart and park it side by side with my Dad's, have the manager come out and ask him which job he would rather have on his $16,000 pickup. I think I'M more ticked than my Dad. Can you tell??? :-(
Unfortunately, I mentioned Ziebart to my Dad since it was about $35 cheaper than my liner. Cosidering the quality difference, if mine was $450, Ziebart's should have been about $150, if that.
Prior to my Dad having his truck sprayed, I had called to ask about their process. The person I talked to had indicated that their liner was "just like" the local vendor (Fabick), in our area that did the liner on my 01 Quad. This is NOT the case. My spray-in liner is like a hard plastic, with an even, grainy surface that looks "factory". Ziebart's looks like Rhino doo-doo.
Anyone know if Ziebart could remove the crappy job so we could get it resprayed by PROFESSIONALS at Fabick?
Thanks, fat_fenders
PS. I'll never recommend Ziebart to anyone in Madison, WI! However, I'm SURE not every Ziebart does this kind of work...
Moral of the story - Ask for references and/or check a finished job BEFORE having YOUR truck sprayed by anyone!
Ole I have a Stockland on my QC and am extremely happy with it. Very well made and it has a lifetime, what ever that means, guarantee on the paint. Carl
Thanks for the comments. The cats are good people. We've even added a new one just over a week ago (recued from the SPCA), if you're curious.
I grew up with cats 'n dogs, at least until the tender age of twelve when we had to give them all away because my older sister was found to be extremely allergic. Took me over fifteen years to get back to a state of grace with my favorite animals and I'm very happy about it. ;^)
What have you paid for a set of flairs? Spoke to the dealer, was told that there use to be a "flair Package" for approx. $260.00/set of 4. DC has changed that, now you must purchase each individually @ $134.00/ea front, $144.00/ea rear, That's more than double the price!!!! Sounds a little bit funny!
xkarter - My flairs came as a set in the same box. Part number 82205252 (black) - MLDG Kit - $255.00+ tax. I suggest calling around a couple other dealers. What color do you need? Maybe someone can give a good part number to order.
96g11 - No tonneau cover this week....... Will go in tomorrow and wait for them to call to make sure it is on the truck. Ordered a Stockland cover as it appears to be a low profile tonneau. Not completely blaming local 4 Wheel Parts dealer but just frustrated. (to hot to install it lately anyway - 111 degrees labor day - I Know - I'm a wimp...)
If your dad used a credit card: V, M/C, Amex etc. He should notify them at once and file a nasty complaint. That will DEFINITELY get their attention FAST! Vendors, etc. have (in their basic agreement to take CC's) the understanding that they will be held accountable (financially) for the CC customer (your dad). If no positive action comes your way via Ziebart in the way of a prompt, complete redo to your satisfaction, three things will occur: 1) the CC company will not charge you, effectively negating the bill and dipping into the insurance account to handle any business issues or refunds do you or your dad with Ziebart, 2) ANY other dealer worth his salt (Fabick?) lives for the opportunity to redo a screwup by his competition and be able to talk about it - whether or not you want Ziebart to do the job over after you get credit returned to you, and 3) none of us will recommend Ziebart's process until they get your dad's install 'just right.'
However, if you used a check: contact your bank, then contact THEIR bank and see if you can get to whomever handles THEIR business. It'll be on the back of your check. Just work your way up the food chain until you get to someone who is in charge. Tell them the story calmly, he'll make a call or two. They love a good loan, and if his customer's process is sloppy, wellll... that next Monday morning banker's meeting (re: loans) might be a little stiff.
Also, contact Ziebart directly. They love to 'correct' franchisees. [www.ziebart.com] and then click 'contact ziebart' and go VENT SOME MORE!
You definitely need to talk to another dealer or something. I had mine installed less than a month ago. The flares were a color matched set of four and I paid $255 including installation by the dealer. This is not a special price, the price is posted in the DC accesories cataloq.
Thanks for the tips. He does use his credit card for a lot of stuff so maybe I'll look into that route. I've already been at the Ziebart website to get company info and have passed that on.
I'll post what I find out. Any company should be willing to stand behind a job that substancially less than 100% and doo something about it.
i would like to add a hood deflector( no drill), vent shades,headlight projector beam style covers lens,door seal covers,rear tail light covers with dodge and rams head logo,etc to my soon arrive 01 q/c. there are so many companies out there which makes the best product for the application anyone have any exps to share?considering lund,egr,wheathertech,and gts. products.
I checked with my Dad tonight and he did indeed pay for the job with his credit card. On to step two... :-} Thanks again for the suggestions and as before, I'll provide followup to let the members know how it goes.
I wanted to put a little plug in for the great customer service I received from a couple internet vendors.
I ordered some eyebrow fender protectors from Lund (www.lundproducts.com), via their website. I had ordered the eyebrows to match the Interceptor bug deflector I have. Unfortunately they did not arrive in very good condition.
However, after an email to the company explaining the condition and my disappointment at what I received, I received an email from them the next day, apologizing for the problem and indicating they would resolveit. Lund shipped a new set immediately and those arrived in two days, in excellent condition.
It's nice to know customer servcie is not a thing of the past.
On a related note, I just ordered some Dakota items from www.quadratec.com and I'm impressed with their followup so far. Received an order confirmation via email almost immediately and within two days of my order, I received UPS tracking number info. Wow, I'm impressed. These companies will get more of my business!
A spare tire lock is available from www.quadratec.com for $19.95. I'm not associated with them in any way and am sure they are available elsewhere also. Anyone else?
I just installed my Pace Edwards roll top tonneau cover tonight on my 2001 Quad Cab. Installation was about 2 hours and the finished product looks great.
It was installed over a locally obtained, over-the-rail spray in bedliner. The bedliner extends approximately midpoint of the first body curve from the top rail.
The roll top slider rails that attach to the box sides extend about one inch over the top rail and are screwed to the inside edge of the box rail with 5 screws.
Prior to attaching those rails, I ran a bead of clear silicone along the inside corner of the rails to further seal where they meet the top, inside edge of the box. Follow that??? ;-)
The installation was straight forward although I did need to read the directions for some steps a number of times to understand what they were trying to say, as diagrams were limited.
This roll top has two positions it can be locked at; fully closed and open about 18". It took a little adjusting to make the lock mechanism work correctly at both lock points, but I suspect that would be necessary in any installation.
For routing the drain hoses, I drilled a 5/8" hole in each of the plastic plugs at the front of the Quad's box. Upon checking hose length (prior to drilling!), I found the hoses too short.
Luckily, I happen to have some 5/8" clear plastic hose identical to what was supplied, from my aquarium's siphon "vacuum". By lengthening the drain hoses, I was able to route them through the plastic plugs and left no bare metal to rust. By the way, there's nothing under those plugs. In my dad's regular cab, they conceal tie-down points.
I paid $535 for the Pace Edwards from a local vendor which was considerably less expensive that the Roll N Lock. I did find some less expensive on the internet, but by the time shipping was added, it didn't save me enough to matter, especially if there was a problem with it.
Ultimately, I ended up with what I feel is a durable, hopefully long lasting and sharp looking tonneau cover.
I have had my fold a cover on for about 2K miles now, and thought I would give a follow up on it.
I have driven through several HEAVY rain storms with fully loaded box and have not noticed any significant water in the box. When I open the tailgate, some water drips into the opening.
I have not had any snow experience yet, but am looking forward to a really snowy Michigan winter!!
I would not consider this top water tight, but more than adequate for my needs.
I hope this is useful to some of you out there considering covers.
Fold-a-Cover: I would echo KMENNE on the functionality of this cover. I, too, live in Michigan, and the real test will come during the winter... So far, so good!
RHINO: Read the bad Rhino experience with some alarm. I had one applied about a month ago, and it came out extremely well! I DO RECALL, however, the Ziebart franchise owner telling me that some others do a sloppy job simply because they try to glump the stuff on too heavy, get the metal over the curb, and get on to the next job. The RIGHT way (as my Quad would attest) is to mask the rails, etc. well, then apply several thin coats one after the other. For that reason, he does only one Rhino application per day.
Would you mind sharing the address/phone number for the Ziebart that sprayed your liner?
As I mentioned in my Rhino horror story, I'm sure all Ziebart dealers do not produce the same quality. I'm happy yours is good and based on your comments, my dad's was sprayed in, in one heavy, goobered-in layer, with poor prep. Live and learn.
thanks fat fenders for the pace-edwards update. Have you had a chance to check the top out in rain yet? Any leaks? Also, what's the sliding top made of and how easy is it manipulate open and close with a single hand? Can you just slide it back to close from the tailgate, no worries? Please post any more experiences after you've used it a bit - in snow, rain, etc. BTW: did that cover come with any sort of lock for the cover and tailgate?
WETWILLIE -- Thanks for the part numbers, but I suspect they may apply to the Ram rather than the Dakota.
I was on the phone with tech support at K&N an hour ago... Woman on the phone was very knowledgeable... She confirmed that K&N does not officially offer either the filter or the filtercharger for the 5.9 in a 2000 Dakota... Said the drop-in filter had not yet been test-fit in the 2000 Dakota 5.9 airbox... Mentioned that the cruise control module was moved in 2000, necessitating a fresh design on the filtercharger. She asked that I call back in a couple of weeks.
Curious to know where you got the part numbers! Do you know something that I don't!!?? (Hopeful!)
towcrazy2 - I wouldn't put to much stock in what the folks from K&N told me about which filter fit where. I dealt with them about 10 months ago looking for a filter for my 4.7. They told me it was under development and would be out in March of this year. In the meantime I found out from the DML that for 97-00 for V-6, V-8 (5.2,5.9 and 4.7) it was the same filter. Mine has been in since January of this year. I got it from autoconnection.com (about $10 cheaper than K&N) they didn't have a listing for a 4.7 so I told them it was for a 5.2. I had this same filter in my 98 Ram 5.9.
No rain yet although I did wash the Quad tonight. I tried not to squirt too much water around the cover and found none inside.
The cover is made of interlocking extruded aluminum pieces running the width of the box. The aluminum is covered with a padded firm vinyl type material. It's not soft like naugahyde. Only thing I'd like to add to the installation is some sort of gasket around the cover that goes over the whole roll-top assembly. THat appears to be the only place any measurable water could get in.
The top is under spring tension when fully extended, like a window shade. When unlocked, you need to hold onto it with one hand and let it retract gingerly, like one should with a tape measure to keep it from snapping.
It's easy to operate by walking along side of the truck when opening or closing. You could attach a piece of strap or rope to control roll up speed from the tailgate area. P.E. does offer an optional strap to do just that.
The P.E. roll top does come with a lock, but only for the top itself. They do offer an electric lock that is compatible with keyless entry trucks. I've seen it for $89 from Quadratec. Q-tech also has something called a "Pop-Lock" for $49. The Pop-Lock is a locking cover that goes over your tailgate latch.
Anyone have any ideas for locking a tailgate that doesn't require adding holes?
I'll post info on rain/snow when that season comes.
WETWILLIE / RON: Thank you both for the info on the K&N... Sounds like I should just cross-ref a K&N part number with, say, a typical replacement element (Fram, Purolator, etc.) just to be sure.
My first choice was the Filtercharger, though I'd hate to get stuck with something that doesn't fit at that price.
All of this "detective work" simply because I'm installing a Borla cat-back system and wanted to open up the intake end of things to get full potential from the exhaust... Children must play, I guess!
Looks like in the near future I will be purchasing a 00'club cab, SLT, 4X4, 4.7L V8, auto, with 3.55 gears. Need the best mileage available as I only do limited towing. What I am wondering is if anyone has installed a good aftermarket exhaust system on this type truck. I want it to sound like a V8 when I put my foot into it, as well as increase the mpg if possible. Any suggestions?
For what it's worth, I'm expecting to install a Borla cat-back system on my '00 with 5.9 in the near future. It's certainly not a cheap system, but I'll be tracking mileage in the hope that I'll see a payback within 40-50K miles.
Will be more than happy to share results (or lack of same).
(bigal31)This information does not surprise me at all. Anyone that is going to a cat-back just to get some more power is thoroughly kidding themselves. To gain power from an exhaust system change means that the stock system was really bad. Sure, those fancy exhaust systems may flow more gas than the stock system. The SPEED (high RPMs of engine) of the gas has to be pretty high before there is any real effect on the backpressure. (Yes there are some "tricks" with reverse ram effect that can be accomplished but these are minimal.) Low end torque can actually be LOST by adding a cat-back system.
Headers would provide a better-tuned scavenging of the cylinders and lets not forget that the catalytic converter is perhaps the BIGGEST flow-restrictor in the exhaust system... but the feds frown upon changes to the converter or in front of it.
There was a time (years ago) that an exhaust system change was desirable for both power (flow improvement) and longevity (Stainless) but those days are gone.
Given that my new rig has a stainless exhaust from the factory and even decent exhaust manifolds (4.7L hemi), there is little reason for me to change a thing. HOWEVER I like the sound that a V8 makes (That was my main reason to buy one) so I am considering a BORLA MUFFLER that will sound good and cost a lot less than a complete cat-back system.
Due respect for the numbers you posted, but there are some blank spots and additional considerations when looking at such data.
First, I've done (and am currently doing) sales and service training for Toyota. When we did the initial service rollout in 1999, it was CLEAR that the Tundra OHC was (and is) in a higher state of tune out-of-the-box than domestic counterparts. Control systems such as ETCI will bear that out.
It's a fact that a cat-back is LESS likely to achieve significant hp, torque or economy gains in a sophisticated OHC design even closely comparable to gains in a traditional OHV design (e.g., the DC 4.7 vs. the 5.9).
But here's the missing data that bothers me more:
HP vs. TORQUE -- HP is what KEEPS a load moving, but torque is what GETS it moving. For my purposes (towing), power from the get-go is what counts most. If you can lead me to the published torque data on that test (and I presume it was recorded), I'd be interested!
INTAKE vs. EXHAUST -- Was the test conducted using Borla's "Powerset" (cat-back with free-breathing intake, now supplied for Tundra)? Based on my experiences (chassis dyno runs included), simply slapping on a good exhaust without opening up the front end of things will achieve little if anything. In fact, it can actually REDUCE torque in most-used rpm ranges.
ECONOMY -- No, it can't be measured through a dyno test... But squeezing more usable power (via intake/exhaust mods) out of a gallon of gas (especially at today's prices) can provide an ample ROI if properly done.
Bottom line? It's all in the powertrain you HAVE, what you NEED and HOW you go about getting it. I've done intake/exhaust mods on my OHV Harleys, gotten terrific hp/torque results on the dyno and 3-5 extra mpg to boot. But the Honda is another story... Not much you can expect to get out of a DOHC engine with ram-air and tuned cans!
Seriously, I'd appreciate it if you could direct me to that Toy Test if it's available via the net! If nothing else, it's something to talk about over lunch with my Toyota clients!
Al... NO! I'm NOT going to stick my beloved QC on a chassis dyno when the mods are complete... I did that with the Harleys, and it tore my heart out to see them strap them down, redline them, and leave me with the printouts and burn't rubber in my nostrils!
I will, however, provide some accurate before-and-after on the mileage numbers (I'm quite light-of-foot).
The test didn't include torque results. But it did include a high flow air cleaner element. The air filter didn't improve on the horsepower gains of the Borla system. That said if you don't mind spending $250-$300 on that "Big block" V-8 sound I can see where you are comming from.. When I was a wee lad 17 and up I had a new Street bike every other year GSXR'S (2) both 750's, Honda's 1000 vrf and a 96' CBR 900. The first thing I'd do is slap a header on them and put a jet kit with free flow carbs. I just thought I'd point out that since the early 90's the big three and other manufactures figured out that free flow mufflers frees up horsepower and gas mileage. So basically they have done 95% of the work for us already. If you want that extra 5%, well you get the picture. Allen-
AL -- I think we're fundamentally agreed on the relative benefits of a free-flow system on MODERN powerplants. When DC intro'd the 4.7 OHC (combined with the trick auto tranny) in the Dak, that was a HUGE leap forward in powertrain efficiency... which of course meant smaller potential gains through intake/exhaust mods.
However, the "old" V-8 designs (a.k.a. 5.9) with their antiquated bumpsticks and "traditional" trannies generally allow more room for improvement... Again, not unlike the Honda vs. the Harley.
As I'm sure you know from experience, the oft-overlooked irony in adding a so-called "free-flow" system without regard to its design can easily mean potential losses in low and midrange power due to inadequate backpressure... Lot's of great sound, but no power gains until you wind it out beyond street-sensible rpm ranges.
As to the Tundra as a test vehicle... Well, let's just say that the friendly folks from Japan are still a few notches ahead when it comes to engine efficiency. For example, the V-6 in the Lexus RX300 SUV utilizes a COMBINATION of VVT (variable valve timing), variable (long-med-short)intake runner and variable (long-short) exhaust routing through the muffler... It's only a matter of time before they apply those tricks to the Tundra V-8... And ANY attempt to modify intake/exhaust will inevitably lead to failure!
HENNE -- The Borla "Powerset" simply includes a drop-in filter element (apparently a re-packaged K&N part).
BIGAL -- By the way, I believe you mentioned that you were installing a Westin brush guard. I would be MOST interested in hearing about the results. I say that because my experience with the Westin "light bar" install was misereable! I crawled under the truck, popped the skid cover, took one look at where the bumper anchor bolts were mounted to the frame, and buttoned her back up knowing that without a hoist, I didn't have a DYI prayer.
Took it into a reputable shop... They first found that the Westin instructions were for an earlier vehicle... Not the QC. Then, it took three visits to achieve proper anchoring and alignment of both the bar and bumper. I'll be crossing my fingers for you on that new setup, and hoping to hear that it was a piece of cake!
Thanks for all the great info. If I'm getting it right, it sounds like new exhaust might not be very cost effective when compared to any possible performance increases. It's good to know that Dodge has already put an efficient system on the vehicle. As for getting it to sound like a V8, It sounds like maybe just a new after-market muffler would get that low purrr that I am after. Any in particular that are recommended?
If you're looking for an efficient stainless steel can, Borla has just come out with a line of them called "Boomers." Don't know much about them, but you might want to visit their website... Same goes for others such as Flowmaster.
I can only hope the install goes a little better than your first attempt with that light bar. It's a rather LARGE I piece but after installing the mount brackets I'm hoping some friends will show up to lift it into place. I have seen the directions and it looks like a Molson 12 pack install. Come to think of it I'd better make it a case that way I know they'll show up..I'll post results.
I'm definitely gonna pick up fender flares, bodyside molding off the SLTs (both in the new silver, ps8), FSM, and a bed extender. I'm in Atlanta. Nobody in the area will come off list, but this is a good chunk of change. Does anyone know of a dealer that might work with me or some other way I can get all this without paying list?
Has anybody tried slapping on 32x11.5-15 tires on your Dak yet? If so, what brand,model and wheel info can you supply? I'm looking at BF Goodrich All-Terrains and from preliminary measurements I think they will fit,but not sure. Thanks.
hey guys - getting closer to Quad delivery date and I want to get my bedliner needs in order, here. (my girlfriend says the same thing to me all the time anyways - I have 2 Line-X dealers/installers available in the LA/Orange County area. Bedliners Plus in Irvine and Valley Line-X in North Hollywood. Can anybody vouch for these guys' work? Or recommend somebody solid in the LA/Orange County area. From what I've read on other posts, it usually only takes a few hours to spray-on at the most and price is between 3-400 bucks. Not sure about dealer and/or manufacturer warranty. Thanks, as always.
I believe you're accurate in assessing the brush guard install as something in the area of a 10-14 beer job with friends mandatory. Once you get under and see where the bumper mounting bolts are, You might think about renting a (very strong) trained monkey.
I do hope it goes smoothly! The only insight I can offer is to be certain that the "ears" on the Westin mounts are locked solidly around the bumper bolts (assuming the arrangement is similar to the light bar). Also, before the install, you may want to take a measurement of bumper-to-fender clearance and alignment at two points on each side of the truck. It may help as a rough guide to where the bumper should be when the whole thing comes together.
Steve, is that 10-14 beers per helper, and does that translate to 20-28 beers per helping hand? Whatever Allen, I'm on the Northeast Extension of the PA turnpike and heading on to I-81. This sounds like an opportunity. I left my tools at home, but I did bring a "church key."
Stick around boss, you are my new best friend. First off where do you live? Second, three arms are always better than two...LOL If you know of any tricks on this PROJECT do tell! You can't just come in here make jokes and sign off (that's what bookitty does) post,post,post..
I'm thinking about removing the decals from my 2000 intense blue QC. Not just the stupid dealer decals, but the gaudy "Dakota Sport" from the front doors as well. The truck is over 6 months old. I'm planning to use the WD-40 trick. My question is, is there a likelihood of my screwing up my truck by taking these decals off? Will the paint under the decals be discolored? Help! Don't let me screw up my truck!
(appraiser) I know I saw some discussion about removing decals over in the MAINTENANCE section of edmunds. Perhaps you may consider doing some searches in those topics. All of your questions are answered in detail. (WD40-or-Hair-drier, paint appearance...etc)
Sorry... I cannot recall the specific forum I saw this stuff in...
Al/Boo -- Looks like guanner may be making a liar out of me! Guess I'll have to blame it on the monkey that made off with the beer!
BTW Al... The Borla gods are on your side! Got a call yesterday from the shop to tell me that the cat-back plumbing had landed... Screamed out of the client's office, made it to shop just before the doors closed... Big, Beautiful Borla Box!
Only trouble is, the system was for a Lincoln Navigator... A transposed part number... Hate to have been that parts-picker tonight!
Dont you wish that you coud DEMO the various mufflers? Each company (Borla, Jardine...etc ) Uses a different technology (Packing, resonance, soundwave-cancelling, mechanical baffles...etc) to produce the "SOUND" of their mufflers. I know what SOUND I would prefer, but do not know which make of muffler would produce it.
I know that some muffler web sites have sounds that can be downloaded but this is NOT the same as a real-life exhaust note.
Don't you just wish you could hear all of the different exhaust systems and mufflers on your own truck and then just pick the one you liked the most. To bad it wasn't that easy. I will probably just put on a new muffler for the sound(not sure which one), and possibly duals from there back, but still a little worried about the warning from Gibson about towing. Still want to hear some feed-back before purchasing (hope you get yours some time soon towcrazy2, good luck!). Anyway, I also, like tuvtest, would like to know if anyone has fit a set of 32X11.50R15 tires on their dakota yet. I will probably be going with a set of 15X10" wheels. If anyone has any knowledge of doing this without having to do a lift kit, I would be curious to here your input.
Comments
You can order the CH with "WinDoors". A window that is hinged at the top and opens upward like the tail gate window. Gives you full access to the bed from the sides. $75-$100 a piece depending on your negoiating skill ;^) I thought it was extremely expensive for one piano hinge and two locks but it has been well worth it. I use them everytime I put something it the bed, which seems to be daily.
Got my Quad mid June just before a summer filled with 5 road trips. The family has 5500 miles of road trips under the belt since then. Loading, unloading, and adjusting the load with the WinDoors is a joy. You can get to stuff way up front near the cab just as easy as the stuff near the tailgate. For all the stuff you thought you would not need and buried, you can get to without climbing in the back and over top of everything.
The color match is perfect. The styling fits the truck well. I have had people ask if it is an OEM top.
I ordered mine with two interior battery operated lights. Never used them. At $10 a piece not a big deal and I have only had the cap 2 months. They don't take up any real space and maybe someday they will be useful.
I also got the carpeting (floss). Adds a finished appearance. My truck is an around town family car. I haul lumber, mulch, bedding plants, typical homeowner weekend project stuff. Carpeting is definitley not a "gotta have" but it dresses it up. Makes the cargo area more SUV like.
Even if you don't have a sliding window in the truck, get one in the cap. I leave my slider open on the cap all the time and it provides ventilation. Even in a heavy downpour, very little water enters the bed. A few drops. I washed the bed out with a hose after a trip to the beach. Closed up all the windows on the cap. Next day I had a terrian. All the windows were fogged over and the inside was still wet. Opened the slider and by the end of the day it was dry and clear.
Look back through some of the earlier posts. I put in a lengthy post about the cap the week after I got it. I explained the difference between the CH, CX, and ZX models from A.R.E.
What a $415 crappy job they did. I know there have been posts about the skill level of those spraying affecting final quality but this is ridiculous and pathetic.
His liner is; soft, has bubbles, sloppy finishing on edges, two of three drain holes at front of box plugged, "drips" around bottom of tailgate and front edge of box. It seems like it would easily gouge. The spray is all lumpy, especially across the top of the tailgate. Reminds me of how latex paint looks when sprayed too heavy though a Wagner power sprayer. The only difference is that even latex flows out to some degree. The Rhino dumper didn't.
Coverage on the front of the box is poor and blue paint is showing through in spots. My Dad pointed that out when he picked it up and they offered to take it inside and spray some black PAINT on it. Stupid answer #1. He declined.
He also pointed out the plugged drain holes. The Ziebart "professional" stuck his pocket knife through the dried goop and indicated it wasn't plugged. Stupid answer #2. Well, as soon as he pulled his knife out, the hole closed. This liner is more like silicone rubber!
I plan on taking my truck to Ziebart and park it side by side with my Dad's, have the manager come out and ask him which job he would rather have on his $16,000 pickup. I think I'M more ticked than my Dad. Can you tell??? :-(
Unfortunately, I mentioned Ziebart to my Dad since it was about $35 cheaper than my liner. Cosidering the quality difference, if mine was $450, Ziebart's should have been about $150, if that.
Prior to my Dad having his truck sprayed, I had called to ask about their process. The person I talked to had indicated that their liner was "just like" the local vendor (Fabick), in our area that did the liner on my 01 Quad. This is NOT the case. My spray-in liner is like a hard plastic, with an even, grainy surface that looks "factory". Ziebart's looks like Rhino doo-doo.
Anyone know if Ziebart could remove the crappy job so we could get it resprayed by PROFESSIONALS at Fabick?
Thanks,
fat_fenders
PS. I'll never recommend Ziebart to anyone in Madison, WI! However, I'm SURE not every Ziebart does this kind of work...
Moral of the story - Ask for references and/or check a finished job BEFORE having YOUR truck sprayed by anyone!
Carl
http://www.stockland.com/ Check them out.
Carl
Thanks for the comments. The cats are good people. We've even added a new one just over a week ago (recued from the SPCA), if you're curious.
I grew up with cats 'n dogs, at least until the tender age of twelve when we had to give them all away because my older sister was found to be extremely allergic. Took me over fifteen years to get back to a state of grace with my favorite animals and I'm very happy about it. ;^)
-Ted
DC has changed that, now you must purchase each individually @ $134.00/ea front, $144.00/ea rear, That's more than double the price!!!! Sounds a little bit funny!
96g11 - No tonneau cover this week....... Will go in tomorrow and wait for them to call to make sure it is on the truck. Ordered a Stockland cover as it appears to be a low profile tonneau. Not completely blaming local 4 Wheel Parts dealer but just frustrated. (to hot to install it lately anyway - 111 degrees labor day - I Know - I'm a wimp...)
However, if you used a check: contact your bank, then contact THEIR bank and see if you can get to whomever handles THEIR business. It'll be on the back of your check. Just work your way up the food chain until you get to someone who is in charge. Tell them the story calmly, he'll make a call or two. They love a good loan, and if his customer's process is sloppy, wellll... that next Monday morning banker's meeting (re: loans) might be a little stiff.
Also, contact Ziebart directly. They love to 'correct' franchisees. [www.ziebart.com] and then click 'contact ziebart' and go VENT SOME MORE!
;-)=
I'll post what I find out. Any company should be willing to stand behind a job that substancially less than 100% and doo something about it.
fat_fenders
fat_fenders
I ordered some eyebrow fender protectors from Lund (www.lundproducts.com), via their website. I had ordered the eyebrows to match the Interceptor bug deflector I have. Unfortunately they did not arrive in very good condition.
However, after an email to the company explaining the condition and my disappointment at what I received, I received an email from them the next day, apologizing for the problem and indicating they would resolveit. Lund shipped a new set immediately and those arrived in two days, in excellent condition.
It's nice to know customer servcie is not a thing of the past.
On a related note, I just ordered some Dakota items from www.quadratec.com and I'm impressed with their followup so far. Received an order confirmation via email almost immediately and within two days of my order, I received UPS tracking number info. Wow, I'm impressed. These companies will get more of my business!
fat_fenders
A spare tire lock is available from www.quadratec.com for $19.95. I'm not associated with them in any way and am sure they are available elsewhere also. Anyone else?
fat_fenders
It was installed over a locally obtained, over-the-rail spray in bedliner. The bedliner extends approximately midpoint of the first body curve from the top rail.
The roll top slider rails that attach to the box sides extend about one inch over the top rail and are screwed to the inside edge of the box rail with 5 screws.
Prior to attaching those rails, I ran a bead of clear silicone along the inside corner of the rails to further seal where they meet the top, inside edge of the box. Follow that??? ;-)
The installation was straight forward although I did need to read the directions for some steps a number of times to understand what they were trying to say, as diagrams were limited.
This roll top has two positions it can be locked at; fully closed and open about 18". It took a little adjusting to make the lock mechanism work correctly at both lock points, but I suspect that would be necessary in any installation.
For routing the drain hoses, I drilled a 5/8" hole in each of the plastic plugs at the front of the Quad's box. Upon checking hose length (prior to drilling!), I found the hoses too short.
Luckily, I happen to have some 5/8" clear plastic hose identical to what was supplied, from my aquarium's siphon "vacuum". By lengthening the drain hoses, I was able to route them through the plastic plugs and left no bare metal to rust. By the way, there's nothing under those plugs. In my dad's regular cab, they conceal tie-down points.
I paid $535 for the Pace Edwards from a local vendor which was considerably less expensive that the Roll N Lock. I did find some less expensive on the internet, but by the time shipping was added, it didn't save me enough to matter, especially if there was a problem with it.
Ultimately, I ended up with what I feel is a durable, hopefully long lasting and sharp looking tonneau cover.
Any questions?
fat_fenders
I have driven through several HEAVY rain storms with fully loaded box and have not noticed any significant water in the box. When I open the tailgate, some water drips into the opening.
I have not had any snow experience yet, but am looking forward to a really snowy Michigan winter!!
I would not consider this top water tight, but more than adequate for my needs.
I hope this is useful to some of you out there considering covers.
RHINO: Read the bad Rhino experience with some alarm. I had one applied about a month ago, and it came out extremely well! I DO RECALL, however, the Ziebart franchise owner telling me that some others do a sloppy job simply because they try to glump the stuff on too heavy, get the metal over the curb, and get on to the next job. The RIGHT way (as my Quad would attest) is to mask the rails, etc. well, then apply several thin coats one after the other. For that reason, he does only one Rhino application per day.
As I mentioned in my Rhino horror story, I'm sure all Ziebart dealers do not produce the same quality. I'm happy yours is good and based on your comments, my dad's was sprayed in, in one heavy, goobered-in layer, with poor prep. Live and learn.
fat_fenders
I was on the phone with tech support at K&N an hour ago... Woman on the phone was very knowledgeable... She confirmed that K&N does not officially offer either the filter or the filtercharger for the 5.9 in a 2000 Dakota... Said the drop-in filter had not yet been test-fit in the 2000 Dakota 5.9 airbox... Mentioned that the cruise control module was moved in 2000, necessitating a fresh design on the filtercharger. She asked that I call back in a couple of weeks.
Curious to know where you got the part numbers! Do you know something that I don't!!?? (Hopeful!)
The cover is made of interlocking extruded aluminum pieces running the width of the box. The aluminum is covered with a padded firm vinyl type material. It's not soft like naugahyde. Only thing I'd like to add to the installation is some sort of gasket around the cover that goes over the whole roll-top assembly. THat appears to be the only place any measurable water could get in.
The top is under spring tension when fully extended, like a window shade. When unlocked, you need to hold onto it with one hand and let it retract gingerly, like one should with a tape measure to keep it from snapping.
It's easy to operate by walking along side of the truck when opening or closing. You could attach a piece of strap or rope to control roll up speed from the tailgate area. P.E. does offer an optional strap to do just that.
The P.E. roll top does come with a lock, but only for the top itself. They do offer an electric lock that is compatible with keyless entry trucks. I've seen it for $89 from Quadratec. Q-tech also has something called a "Pop-Lock" for $49. The Pop-Lock is a locking cover that goes over your tailgate latch.
Anyone have any ideas for locking a tailgate that doesn't require adding holes?
I'll post info on rain/snow when that season comes.
fat_fenders
ps. Thanks towcrazy2 for the Ziebart info!
Thank you both for the info on the K&N... Sounds like I should just cross-ref a K&N part number with, say, a typical replacement element (Fram, Purolator, etc.) just to be sure.
My first choice was the Filtercharger, though I'd hate to get stuck with something that doesn't fit at that price.
All of this "detective work" simply because I'm installing a Borla cat-back system and wanted to open up the intake end of things to get full potential from the exhaust... Children must play, I guess!
Will be more than happy to share results (or lack of same).
Headers would provide a better-tuned scavenging of the cylinders and lets not forget that the catalytic converter is perhaps the BIGGEST flow-restrictor in the exhaust system... but the feds frown upon changes to the converter or in front of it.
There was a time (years ago) that an exhaust system change was desirable for both power (flow improvement) and longevity (Stainless) but those days are gone.
Given that my new rig has a stainless exhaust from the factory and even decent exhaust manifolds (4.7L hemi), there is little reason for me to change a thing.
HOWEVER
I like the sound that a V8 makes (That was my main reason to buy one) so I am considering a BORLA MUFFLER that will sound good and cost a lot less than a complete cat-back system.
Due respect for the numbers you posted, but there are some blank spots and additional considerations when looking at such data.
First, I've done (and am currently doing) sales and service training for Toyota. When we did the initial service rollout in 1999, it was CLEAR that the Tundra OHC was (and is) in a higher state of tune out-of-the-box than domestic counterparts. Control systems such as ETCI will bear that out.
It's a fact that a cat-back is LESS likely to achieve significant hp, torque or economy gains in a sophisticated OHC design even closely comparable to gains in a traditional OHV design (e.g., the DC 4.7 vs. the 5.9).
But here's the missing data that bothers me more:
HP vs. TORQUE -- HP is what KEEPS a load moving, but torque is what GETS it moving. For my purposes (towing), power from the get-go is what counts most. If you can lead me to the published torque data on that test (and I presume it was recorded), I'd be interested!
INTAKE vs. EXHAUST -- Was the test conducted using Borla's "Powerset" (cat-back with free-breathing intake, now supplied for Tundra)? Based on my experiences (chassis dyno runs included), simply slapping on a good exhaust without opening up the front end of things will achieve little if anything. In fact, it can actually REDUCE torque in most-used rpm ranges.
ECONOMY -- No, it can't be measured through a dyno test... But squeezing more usable power (via intake/exhaust mods) out of a gallon of gas (especially at today's prices) can provide an ample ROI if properly done.
Bottom line? It's all in the powertrain you HAVE, what you NEED and HOW you go about getting it. I've done intake/exhaust mods on my OHV Harleys, gotten terrific hp/torque results on the dyno and 3-5 extra mpg to boot. But the Honda is another story... Not much you can expect to get out of a DOHC engine with ram-air and tuned cans!
Seriously, I'd appreciate it if you could direct me to that Toy Test if it's available via the net! If nothing else, it's something to talk about over lunch with my Toyota clients!
I will, however, provide some accurate before-and-after on the mileage numbers (I'm quite light-of-foot).
That said if you don't mind spending $250-$300 on that "Big block" V-8 sound I can see where you are comming from..
When I was a wee lad 17 and up I had a new Street bike every other year GSXR'S (2) both 750's, Honda's 1000 vrf and a 96' CBR 900. The first thing I'd do is slap a header on them and put a jet kit with free flow carbs.
I just thought I'd point out that since the early 90's the big three and other manufactures figured out that free flow mufflers frees up horsepower and gas mileage. So basically they have done 95% of the work for us already. If you want that extra 5%, well you get the picture.
Allen-
in the stick intake or did they install a cold air
induction kit with a cone filter?
great info by the way
i hope that scribble worked, made a boo boo i couldnt even figure out, and im not talking about bookitty
Robert
However, the "old" V-8 designs (a.k.a. 5.9) with their antiquated bumpsticks and "traditional" trannies generally allow more room for improvement... Again, not unlike the Honda vs. the Harley.
As I'm sure you know from experience, the oft-overlooked irony in adding a so-called "free-flow" system without regard to its design can easily mean potential losses in low and midrange power due to inadequate backpressure... Lot's of great sound, but no power gains until you wind it out beyond street-sensible rpm ranges.
As to the Tundra as a test vehicle... Well, let's just say that the friendly folks from Japan are still a few notches ahead when it comes to engine efficiency. For example, the V-6 in the Lexus RX300 SUV utilizes a COMBINATION of VVT (variable valve timing), variable (long-med-short)intake runner and variable (long-short) exhaust routing through the muffler... It's only a matter of time before they apply those tricks to the Tundra V-8... And ANY attempt to modify intake/exhaust will inevitably lead to failure!
HENNE -- The Borla "Powerset" simply includes a drop-in filter element (apparently a re-packaged K&N part).
BIGAL -- By the way, I believe you mentioned that you were installing a Westin brush guard. I would be MOST interested in hearing about the results. I say that because my experience with the Westin "light bar" install was misereable! I crawled under the truck, popped the skid cover, took one look at where the bumper anchor bolts were mounted to the frame, and buttoned her back up knowing that without a hoist, I didn't have a DYI prayer.
Took it into a reputable shop... They first found that the Westin instructions were for an earlier vehicle... Not the QC. Then, it took three visits to achieve proper anchoring and alignment of both the bar and bumper. I'll be crossing my fingers for you on that new setup, and hoping to hear that it was a piece of cake!
Allen-
I do hope it goes smoothly! The only insight I can offer is to be certain that the "ears" on the Westin mounts are locked solidly around the bumper bolts (assuming the arrangement is similar to the light bar). Also, before the install, you may want to take a measurement of bumper-to-fender clearance and alignment at two points on each side of the truck. It may help as a rough guide to where the bumper should be when the whole thing comes together.
GOOD LUCK!!
Bookitty
First off where do you live? Second, three arms are always better than two...LOL
If you know of any tricks on this PROJECT do tell!
You can't just come in here make jokes and sign off (that's what bookitty does) post,post,post..
Allen-
Sorry... I cannot recall the specific forum I saw this stuff in...
BTW Al... The Borla gods are on your side! Got a call yesterday from the shop to tell me that the cat-back plumbing had landed... Screamed out of the client's office, made it to shop just before the doors closed... Big, Beautiful Borla Box!
Only trouble is, the system was for a Lincoln Navigator... A transposed part number... Hate to have been that parts-picker tonight!
Each company (Borla, Jardine...etc ) Uses a different technology (Packing, resonance, soundwave-cancelling, mechanical baffles...etc) to produce the "SOUND" of their mufflers. I know what SOUND I would prefer, but do not know which make of muffler would produce it.
I know that some muffler web sites have sounds that can be downloaded but this is NOT the same as a real-life exhaust note.