WHO in their right mind would just sit around listening to exhaust sounds for Pete's sake! LOL You people really need to get a life or at least a half-life. COME ON, your kids will KNOW they're adopted (or hope), and your wives will probably just go shopping with the Gold Card.
BTW - anybody got any mpegs of Dakota exhaust tunes (mmm, sounds), you might just e:mail them to me so I can just take a 'quick listen' and validate them for the group. Yeah, that's it. Then I'll just send them on over to a_j, bookitty and 'others' for their opinions. And get back to you.
Granted, this whole business of aftermaket muffler "sounds" is all in the spirit of having a little fun... But seriously, I would suggest that you heed the manufacturers' "no-no" regarding the use of dual, rear-exit plumbing if you're going to be towing.
ALL the aftermarket folks offer the same warning... Not only because the rear pipes are going to eventually leave whatever it is you're towing shrouded in soot, but also to protect themselves from liability in the event of exhaust gas blow-back to the cabin.
I won't pretend to know the odds of that happening... But I'm not about to volunteer my services as a guinea pig.
Why would anyone want to replace a perfectly good exhaust system with a noisy one???? Well I did once. I had a 69 Ford ranchero 351W 4 speed with dual exhaust. Replaced from the mufflers back with a Lo/No restriction set of mufflers and straight pipes out under the rear bumper. Damn it sounded good, made the hair stand up on your arms. My neighbors hated me when I went to work at 5:30AM and let it warm up for about 5 minutes cause it was so darn cold out. Their windows would vibrate and pictures fell off the wall. Their problem for buying cheap windows! The sound was great at highway speeds too, of course I had to put in a high bucks stereo system with some 200 Watt amps so I could hear the radio over the exhaust sound. I had some guy ask me if my Jake Brake was stuck open? I had to ask him to repeat his question several because my hearing was ringing. Whats a Jake Brake anyway? I think I might have Tinitis, it seems to have started about the same time my exhaust was installed. Well I like my neighbors now (one is a cop), still go to work early in the AM and my ears have finally stopped ringing. Do I really want to do that to my Quad?? Say would you mind routing those mp3s my way too? Rick
I can't help with all the exhaust manufactures mufflers and the like but I have heard one of them and it's Gibsons..Go to www.gibsonperformance.com You can download 2 different applications. Takes about 30 seconds.Enjoy......
Rick, a "Jake Brake" is a device used on diesel engines to restrict overrevving of the engine when gearing down and/or descending hills. It also make the engine "back off" with that loud familiar guttural sound (I love it!).
I currently have the Yakima system with the Q-towers. Called up Yakima to double-check on the new clips I'd need for a 2001 Quad and he said they have "no fit" as of yet. Wasn't sure if there had been any changes to the vehicle from 2000 to 2001. 2000 Quads use a Q62 clip, but are not recommended to tote items that can't be tied down at the nose and tail, i.e. surfboards, which is what I use my Yakimas for (also snowboards but the ski attachment was recommended - shorter, more stable items I guess). Anybody out there have Yakimas and tried the Q-62 clips on a 2001 Quad? Yakima guy (good company) told me he'd inform his engineers and they'd either start making a new clip (!) or check with Dodge to see if any structural changes were made to the roof, gutter, or door etc. Figured I get a quicker answer on this board! LOL
Thanks, but some of the stuff in the post was tounge in ear, uh I meant cheek. Sorry, Midwest humor. Rick P.S since you are retired are you going to the "MEET" in OK! (thats assuming you have free time)
From the Eastern PA area to OK is almost 2000 miles. With my wife teaching, she could not get away for that period of time. Nevertheless, it is pretty far away. Glad you knew what a "Jake Brake" is, but one never assumes that someone else knows something.
Rick, it is more like almost 1300 miles, but still too darn far. I retired from an industry where I traveled weekly (weakly) for over 36 years. It is just wonderful not having to to that anymore (trains, planes and automobiles).
I've got to meet you one of these days. My brother lives in Springfield VA, maybe if we go back to see him next year we'll spend the summer at your beach house. Got plenty of beer I hope? I always liked the Jersey shore. Spent many a summer in Pt Pleasant area when growing up. I was born and raised in New York City. I left when I was 18 to fight the Asian War and never returned. (kinda like the guy who rode the subway in Boston?) ;.} Rick
Say, did they ever fix all those holes in the Penn Turnpike?
Yeah, but leave out the 'trains and autos' part and then we'll pick just you up at the ol airport.
Okay, okay we'll just have to do the' Michigan thing' at Warren or something later in the summer and cut 700 miles off your (butt's) trip (each way). How bout that? Or do we uns need to mosey on over to the edge of the earth there at that retirement center in Langhorny, PA and scope a knot on yore head?
And that makes this an 'accessory' comment that's suitable for the Topic Cops. :-P
Rick, you've been pulling that "Midwest Humor" stunt for so long, that I figured you to be a dyed in the wool Mid Westerner. Now it turns out that you are actually from "The City", where we spend a good deal of our time seeing shows etc. I used to scuba dive from boats that sailed out of Point Pleasant and my buddy (whom I visited yesterday) lives in Brick Township. Small world. I also spent a good deal of time in Springfield, VA (Back Lick Road) and other parts of Northern VA and the District. They never actually repair the road on the PA turnpike, but they do square the edges of the potholes to make them look better. I was thinking of selling shovels equipped with chin rests to the PENDOT workers who perform that task. Hey, if you get close to here, give me a holler.
Picked up my 01 QC today. Happy Day!! I need to hook up a trailer lite attachment, I think it's a 4 pin. I looked under the truck, there is an electrical line for both tail lites as well as the license plate. On the passenger side is a wire with a tag with the letters CHMGL, (or something close to that). These wires are crimped and tie wired to the tail lite wires. The crimped end is exposed as if it is ready to be wired to something. Are these the wires I need to attach to the trailer light hook up? Is there anything else I need to know about hooking these up or should I leave it to an "expert" thanks!!
Well I ordered the performance accessories 3 inch body lift kit from 4 wheel parts wholesalers on 31 Aug. It was not shipped until Sep. 11! Their bad! Now U.P.S. seems to have lost it!!!!! aaaaggghhhhh!!! MY parts show to have arrived/then shipped form in Mesquite Tx on Sep. 14. I have the tracking number but that does little good. I'll say it again...aaaaagggghhhhh!!!
If your truck has the trailer tow package, there is a 7 pin to 4 pin adapter included. If you are going to install aa after market hitch, there is a light plug adapter with two "T" connecters that hook into the lights. If you are going to pull using the ball on the bumper, be careful. It is not the best idea.
It sounds like you have some detective in you. Next time you are out in that cruiser pull along side one of those brown trucks that park in the middle of the road (UPS) and use your pull. Maybe HE can run some numbers for YOU. Good luck.
Have a '00 and need a rack to hold either two old aluminum Grummans and/or two kayaks. If I permanently screw in four "rain gutter" cleats on the roof I could use my old Grumman rack but then the roof is forever screwed.
Bookitty, thank you for the response. I did not see the adaptor for the hook up but I will look closer today.
The boat I would pull is a 14' aluminum and with the trailer can't weigh more than 1,000 lbs. max. The trips are very short. 30 minutes or so at speeds up to 50 mph. Still think there is a problem with a bumper hitch?
Dan, the adapter that I mentioned comes with the trailer towing package as ordered from the factory and goes from the OEM 7 pin light/brake connector to a 4 wire flat plug connector. The other type used where there is no factory tow package, is a pair (I think) of "tee" connectors that plug into the existing factory wiring harness. The existing harness connectors unplug, and the tee connectors are inserted between the OEM connectors. You may have to move spare to help get to the plugs, as I have not looked due to the fact that I have the tow package. While I am certain that the load you are towing is well within the capacity, I personally do not have much faith in bumper mounted towing. I always use a receiver (2") if for no other reason than versatility (bike rack, carry platform, pintle hook etc.).
The letters designate a power point to connect a Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (3rd brake light), when you add a topper.
By the way, the bumper is rated for a 2000lb towing capacity but I believe hitch weight is limited to 100 lbs? Someone may wish to clarify that. For what you're pulling, the hitch mount should be just fine.
I do however, concur with Bookitty. The receiver hitch can be much more versatile and I have one on my Quad. It's nice to be able to remove the ball when not being used AND your license plate doesn't get all banged up backing up to a trailer.
Bookitty & Fat fenders. Thanks for your responses guys. I'm taking the truck in this p.m. to have the light hook up installed. Good points also on the bumper mounted hitch. I'm still on the fence on this one although I am leaning to a bumper mounted ball. Thanks again for all your help. This is my first truck and I just want to make sure I'm doing things the right way. Dan
It sounds like your parts are somewhere in the metroplex. I need to share my experience with 4 Wheel Parts. I ordered a Stockland Tonneau cover from them on Aug. 4th. Was told it would take 10 days to get it out of Calif. Two weeks went by - no tonneau. Went in to check on order and was told "truck leaves CA thurs night and gets in Monday morning - check back." Checked back the next Monday (Aug 23) and no tonneau. 4W.P. called Stockland - no record of order @#$*! Reordered tonneau - 10 days to get. Checked back the 4th of sept. (one month now) and was told it missed the truck! Next week they promise. Got a call Monday Sept 11th - tonneaus in! NO-REALLY!! Picked it up, took it home and my quad cab now had a tonneau---------FOR A CLUB CAB. As I reached for the chain saw I thought I had better call 4W.P. They thought I was joking -- NO-REALLY-I'M-NOT!!! 4WP called Stockland that day and they said it WOULD BE DELIVERED this week. I called Stockland Thurs. to see if it had shipped. Got three different answers over two phone calls. From missed truck to wasn't bowed yet to being repainted because of run. Another week (THEY PROMISE-YEA RIGHT). I'm not sure either company cares. Money has changed hands so?!? My truck was built faster than this.
Sorry so long, but just wanted to post to vent and let others beware of these two companies. (and to give boo and Iowa someone new to pick on) I'll let ya'll know when my XMAS gift comes in! Keith
I feel your pain! We all need to "gang up" on these companies and make sure we all do not patronize these companies that do not care. Hit them where it hurts. I think edmunds has a forum for aftermarket manufacturers to voice an opinion.
You're bringing back some rather unpeasant memories I've experienced with other suppliers. It's no fun having to babysit retailers who simply DON'T CARE.
I've now gotten into a reasonably effective habit... Once you have an approximate delivery date on a part, add a week, and send a letter (or e-mail) of understanding, giving them a "drop-dead" date to deliver, call with an order status, or face a "decline" on the credit charge. It's no guarantee of any action, but at least it's on paper (or printout as it were).
Admittedly, I haven't checked lately but a cap for the QC runs about $1,100. That solution is too expensive for me. Also, it seems that a 17' canoe would be too to far back on the truck and would have a lot of overhang. This would be OK for shorter kayaks. I have to stay focused on a roof type solution to this problem. Maybe there's a company out there right designing a QC canoe rack. Keep looking - Thanks
Just installed the Westin Sportsman Brush guard. It took all of 1 hour,not bad. I think it looks great and I am very happy with the choice. It goes with the Westin nerfs really well. FYI- Got it at www.atlantaauto.com $438.00 delivered. (3 days) Can't say enough good things about them. By the way it is the same place that sent me my nerfs in 46 hours. $206.00 at my door step. I know someone else was asking about those.
I just ordered a set of Westin Black Step Tubes for my '01 Quad last night from www.atlantaauto.com Received an order confirmation email immediately.
Received email today that item will be shipped today.
Asked vendor via email for tracking number as I like to know where my "money" is. They responded within a few hours with tracking number and indicated it was shipped FedEx. Checked FedEx website. Item scanned for pickup this afternoon and it was shipped 2ND DAY! For free? Am I dreaming?????
Atlanta Auto was one of a number of vendors authorized by Westin on their web site. Checked 'em all. Most said something about the best prices on the net, BUT didn't include shipping. Atlanta Auto is the cheapest @ $199.93. This place rocks!
I just want to let it be known I have no vested interest in this very good company. I just want EVERYONE to know (fellow Quadders especially) how professional the are from top to bottom. I whish all the others could be 1/2 as great with their service. My .02$
Allen, this morning Atlanta Auto Accessories called. They lost your address and don't know where to send your commission check. Just kidding Allen, just kidding!
FENDERS -- I would concur with your "thumbs-up" for Atlanta Auto. I also ordered the Westin step bars through them (among other items)... Service was superb, A UPS tracking number appeared in my e-mail box the morning after I placed the order, and the parts arrived two days later.
Another that I would publicly recommend is Quadratech. All I ordered was a lousy $50 K&N filter element, so my order was obviously not the mother lode... Ordered on a Wednesday, the FedEX tracking number showed up on Thursday, and my filter arrived via FedEX on Saturday morning. Considering I paid only for UPS Ground, I was more than impressed that it arrived via 2nd-day FedEX!
It's important to pass on the negative experiences and cautions about suppliers to other "members of the board" (as I myself have done). But perhaps it's even MORE important to pass on news of the POSITIVE experiences!
MOPARPOWER -- You asked about "plugging in" an aftermarket muffler using stock pipes... That should be quite do-able, though before beginning your search, I'd suggest getting under the truck and taking accurate measurements of ALL stock muffler dimensions (length/width/depth of can, inlet and outlet circumferance, nipple lengths, inlet/outlet offset from can centerline, etc.).
Armed with that info, I'm CERTAIN you could find a suitable plug-in. I personally have gone with the entire Borla cat-back. However, Borla just came out with a plug-in muffler line called "Boomers." If you want a stainless steel unit, you might check them out... I'd either call them or e-mail direct for copies of their Main Catalog (Form #21174) and their Fall/Winter (or latest) Catalog Supplement (e-mail me for a direct e-mail contact at Borla).
If stainless steel isn't an issue, I'm sure there are other reputable makers (Flowmaster, Gibson, Edelbrock, etc.) who could fill the bill.
BIGAL & OTHERS -- Not to hammer an issue to death, but I broke down and picked up a copy of the Peterson's 4-Wheel issue from which you cited the rather negligible HP gains with a Borla cat-back system (Toyota V-8). And now, there are not one but TWO information gaps I see in the test as documented.
FIRST, the article shows HP gains of 2-1/2 to 13 HP with a marginal "sweet spot" between 50 and 75 mph and greatest gains in the illegal 80-90 mph range. HOWEVER, no torque numbers were given. This seems odd, since in another dyno test 5 pages later, both hp and torque numbers were listed.
SECOND, the Toyota test methodology seems to fly in the face of "run-in" information listed in the Borla catalog.
In the Toy test, the stock exhaust was pulled, the Borla cat-back installed, and the truck strapped immediately onto the dyno for testing.
Here's what Borla has to say in its factory catalog. (Quote) "Late model cars and trucks are computer controlled to such an extent that it may take a period of time (600-800 miles) before the computer reprograms to reflect the improved flow characteristics of a new Borla exhaust system." (Unquote)
Why that factor was not mentioned in the Toy test (particularly with a Borla tech present!) is beyond me. A graph in the Borla catalog (adjacent to that qualifier) shows a more respectable gain from 184.9 rear-wheel hp to 193.1 (presumably after the run-in period) on a stock '97 Ford Expedition. The "sweet spot" was consistent from 3200 - 3800 rpm.
Again, not trying to hammer this... Just suggesting that while numbers don't lie, missing data and questionable test methodologies can significantly alter numbers.
BTW... Did your bumper-to-body line up well after the brush guard install? I'm still envious here!
(To all... Sorry to hog space... Promise I'll go cold turkey for a few days! Honest! Sincerely!!!)
Here is a new source for performance intake systems for the 4.7L hemi. Check out the Z-TUBE intake. This is worthy of the 4.7L hemi and has been reported to improve performance and sound GREAT.
(IMHO... the $prices$ are pretty steep for some bent metal tubing...)
the place to beat this topic to death. After all this is an "accessories" topic. That said, here is my hammer.. Towcrazy: I am not sure I disagree about the learning curve with the computer on that Tundra cat back. I would like to see (hope) Petersen's would do the right thing and retest (dyno) in 4-5000 miles. That would be extremely useful information to say the least. That said the computer would have to get really smart to change "my" mind. I guess one has to weigh price to horsepower against one another. $300.00 for 5 hp no way. It is a little early for me to spend that much hoping the computer learns to my satisfaction. Which means at least a certain 15-20 hp from top to bottom..
BTW- It all (Westin sportsman grill/brush guard) lined up to an 1/8". Fixed that with 1 washer. Towcrazy, maybe you need an accessories fiend like myself to help you install all these goodies.LOL..
Allen, I know I promised not to post again... But about the Westin bar? Three days after grovelling in the gravel under the truck, my wife still complained of pebbles popping out of my back in bed... Time to move the bikes out of the garage and get serious about the Quad???
I ordered a 33-2084 filter directly from K&N because I had won a gift certificate at an old truck show and had to use it. Since I hadn't received the filter yet, I emailed them to inquire where it was.
Taken directly from their email, they told me the following:
<< We do have your info, the filter you need for the 4.7 motor is not done yet, we are looking for it to release next month, as soon as it is we will send it to you. Sorry for the delay. >>
I told them a number of people on the Edmund's web site were using the 33-2084 on their 4.7s and that's where I got the number from. If there was a problem with that number, I had asked them to respond so that I could post the "why" and provide the right number. Here's K&N's answer:
<< THAT FILTER IS NOT THE RIGHT FILTER, #33-2175 IS GOING TO BE THE RIGHT FILTER TO USE. WE FEEL 33-2084 DOES NOT SEAL PROPERLY. >>
Just to play devil's advocate...For those running filters not approved by K&N for 4.7l application, I'd wonder how DC would view that should a problem occur???
i also considered that option when i was looking at the pe and the r-n-l and found a customer of mine that had the electric tailgate lock on his truck and this is what happened to him - the electric lock went out on the tailgate and he had heavy large boxes on pallets that were to big to close the pe roll cover so it was open, when got to his office and he went to unlock the tailgate the lock had failed and the only way to open the gate was to take the handle assembly apart from inside the gate and remove the latch arm so he could open the gate, well he couldnt get to the access because of all the boxes that he couldnt pick up without the forklift because his gate was closed and couldnt be opened, (talk about a viscious circle) he had to go to a friends company that had a lift in the garage and remove the items so he could get to the tailgate to fix the problem.
that is why i didnt get the pe top and electric lock, i could have gotten a manual lock but then i would have needed 2 keys to open the tailgate and the r-n-l could do the job with one key and at about the same price (v series) it was the best choice for me. now if i could do it again i think i would get the fold a cover but thats another story.
sorry so long everyone but its something to consider
not the access cover, its a soft cover for your bed, i love the r-n-l, but if i could do it over again i think i might like the fold a cover better, its the one that has 3 or 4 rigid panels and you can open and lock it at the tailgate and at the front of the bed and you can take it out in a few minutes and have nothing in the bed at all. thats the only reason i would get it. its more flexable and when i got my r-n-l no one had the fold cover and i was scared of the piano hinge thingymabob leaking an unacceptable amount but from what other owners here say its a great product.
4,500 miles on my 2000 QC and I'm very pleased with the truck in every respect.
Found a nice fiberglass topper by Eagle that blends pretty well with lines of the truck. If you're looking for a topper, you'll want to consider this one. (I paid about $900 with typical tinted window, rear slider package)
Bad experience with Finnegan RV (Beloit, Wisc.) in mounting the unit. Shop elsewhere. They scratched the first one up, and managed to blow fuse on all my rear brake lights during installation. (I enjoyed tracing this problem on the side of the highway. Lesson learned, always check every darned thing before you drive away.) The replacement topper they gave me had a 2" crack in the fiberglass. I insisted on new unit or repainting the first one. Owner complied, but repeatedly feigned inability to see scratches I pointed out. Owner did not express concern about my cap problems, and was more concerned with getting me out of his hair. If I hadn't needed the cap badly, I'd have gone elsewhere and ordered again.
Thanks to all of you who steered me into my QC with your excellent postings and honest feedback. I'm really enjoying the truck.
FOLD-A-COVER -- FYI, I installed my F-a-C about three months ago, and so far, I'm VERY pleased... The folding panels are quite versatile, it's rigid enough (hopefully) to withstand a substantial snow-load, and popping it on and off the truck is a 5-min., one-man job. However, I'll withhold any conclusive praise until AFTER I've been through the better part of a Michigan winter!
4WD -- As mornings are now dipping below freezing here, I just realized that I haven't even tried 4W high or low in the 5 months I've had the truck! Guess it's time to go outside and play!
EXHAUST -- The Borla cat-back system has arrived, and installation is scheduled for Monday. For anyone interested, I'll shoot some "before" (stock) and "after" (Borla) MPEGS and make them available via e-mail. If the sound is a bit too aggressive for me (I'm not a big "noise guy"), my contingency plan is to switch from the stock tip to Borla's "power-tip" (a slick carbon fiber unit that quiets down the exhaust tone).
From what I can tell the folding cover made by Fold-a-Cover and the Mopar folding cover, although similar, are not identical.
The Mopar cover appears to have a mounting rail on the tailgate, and the Mopar brochure indicates that you can lock both the cover and the tailgate.
The Fold-a-Cover does not appear to have any mounting rail on the tailgate, and their web site indicates that, while the cover can be locked, the tailgate cannot.
I recall someone in the past saying that Fold-a-Cover may have made the folding cover for Mopar, which may be true, but in this respect at least, the covers do not appear identical.
Just to clarify a few things about the Mopar folding cover vs. the Fold-a-Cover...
FIRST... They are one-and-the-same. The Mopar cover is, in fact, a standard Fold-a-Cover.
SECOND... There is no tailgate mounting rail on either unit. The photo in Dodge's "Red Book" is deceiving in that it "looks" like there's a mounting rail for the cover along the top of the tailgate. In fact, however, that's simply a tailgate rail protector that is NOT a part of the cover system.
THIRD... Mopar states in its literature that the folding cover "secures" both the cover and tailgate. In a VERY LOOSE SENSE, it does. That is, the locking latch on the cover section has a "lip" slides under an "ear" on the tailgate... sufficient to "secure" the tailgate in the "up" position, say, in the event that the gate were not securely latched. HOWEVER, there's a HUGE difference between "securing" the gate and "locking" the gate. With the gate "secured" by the lip on the cover's locking latch, popping the tailgate open would require nothing more than a hearty "jerk" on the tailgate latch.
This is why I suggested the use of a secondary lock for the gate, separate from the cover's "security lip." (I selected the "Pop-n-Lok" unit that slips right over the tailgate latch)
In spite of that drawback, I'm still thoroughly pleased with how the Fold-a-Cover performs (so far!)
Thanks so much for the explanation. I was going crazy trying to figure it out. Even the Fold-a-Cover folks couldn't tell me if they made the Mopar cover (at least not the ones I talked to). Thanks again.
If anyone has any further questions on the Fold-a-Cover (a.k.a. Dodge "Folding Cover") mounting or locking devices, I'll be happy to click off a few JPEGs and make them available via e-mail.
I've been busy with too many other things. Finally caught up on these discussion groups and read with amusement the borla cat-back test results. I read all the responses too, expecting to see some obvious flaws in the test pointed out, some of which already were. But I was stunned to discover that nobody thought to point out the meaninglessness (?) of charting HP vs SPEED.
Say HUH? Everybody who looks at graphs of HP and torque should understand the importance of HP vs RPM instead of HP vs SPEED. This is ridiculous. Unless the transmission was locked in high gear for the whole test, the test results are truly incomprehensible. I suspect the transmission was locked in high gear, because the results are linear, but WHY oh WHY would anybody bother to post results in MPH instead of doing the simple conversion to RPM?
I know the dyno test is measured at rear wheels (instead of flywheel of old days) to account for rotational and frictional losses in the drivetrain, but still, it's not like you are actually going to realize the posted HP at real driving MPH because there are still other inefficiencies unaccounted for.
And finally, in my tirade, who the heck cares what the horsepower at 70MPH is? It's not like you are trying to accelerate quickly from 70MPH. Maybe you care for climbing steep hills without bogging. But in general, you have plenty of excess HP to maintain 70MPH.
I'd much rather know the HP vs RPM, and TORQUE vs RPM, after computer-adjusted breakin. Or 0-60MPH times, to give an indication of improved performance.
The way the test was performed and presented, at least on this forum, leaves me with little faith that a meaningful test was run.
Sorry to vent, its not anybody's fault here, but HP vs MPH ... I'm still bristling at the idiocy of how the results were presented.
Hey, great discussion on this, though, about reasons why or why not newer engines may not see the significant performance gains of older engines.
I've been debating that with friends as well, wondering if any significant performance was left. Personally, if any gains are to be made, I'd run a whole new exhaust (headers to tailpipe) if I wanted to be sure of substantial gains. Along with an appropriate intake mod. Any improvements in the path of airflow only result in improving to the next weakest link.
Comments
BTW - anybody got any mpegs of Dakota exhaust tunes (mmm, sounds), you might just e:mail them to me so I can just take a 'quick listen' and validate them for the group. Yeah, that's it. Then I'll just send them on over to a_j, bookitty and 'others' for their opinions. And get back to you.
ALL the aftermarket folks offer the same warning... Not only because the rear pipes are going to eventually leave whatever it is you're towing shrouded in soot, but also to protect themselves from liability in the event of exhaust gas blow-back to the cabin.
I won't pretend to know the odds of that happening... But I'm not about to volunteer my services as a guinea pig.
Well I like my neighbors now (one is a cop), still go to work early in the AM and my ears have finally stopped ringing. Do I really want to do that to my Quad?? Say would you mind routing those mp3s my way too? Rick
Allen-
make the engine "back off" with that loud familiar guttural sound (I love it!).
Bookitty
thanks. Dave.
P.S since you are retired are you going to the "MEET" in OK! (thats assuming you have free time)
is, but one never assumes that someone else knows something.
Bookitty
Bookitty
Say, did they ever fix all those holes in the Penn Turnpike?
You do know I'm kidding don't you?
Okay, okay we'll just have to do the' Michigan thing' at Warren or something later in the summer and cut 700 miles off your (butt's) trip (each way). How bout that? Or do we uns need to mosey on over to the edge of the earth there at that retirement center in Langhorny, PA and scope a knot on yore head?
And that makes this an 'accessory' comment that's suitable for the Topic Cops. :-P
to Longhorn? Will that help
in the wool Mid Westerner. Now it turns out that you are actually from "The City", where we spend a good deal of our time seeing shows etc. I used to scuba dive from boats that sailed out of Point Pleasant and my buddy (whom I visited yesterday) lives in Brick Township. Small world. I also spent a good deal of time in Springfield, VA (Back Lick Road) and other parts of Northern VA and the District. They never actually repair the road on the PA turnpike, but they do square the edges of the potholes to make them look better. I was thinking of selling shovels equipped with chin rests to the PENDOT workers who perform that task. Hey, if you get close to here, give me a holler.
Norm (Bookitty)
I need to hook up a trailer lite attachment, I think it's a 4 pin. I looked under the truck, there is an electrical line for both tail lites as well as the license plate. On the passenger side is a wire with a tag with the letters CHMGL, (or something close to that). These wires are crimped and tie wired to the tail lite wires. The crimped end is exposed as if it is ready to be wired to something.
Are these the wires I need to attach to the trailer light hook up?
Is there anything else I need to know about hooking these up or should I leave it to an "expert"
thanks!!
Bookitty
Allen-
Publish any solutions.
The boat I would pull is a 14' aluminum and with the trailer can't weigh more than 1,000 lbs. max.
The trips are very short. 30 minutes or so at speeds up to 50 mph.
Still think there is a problem with a bumper hitch?
and goes from the OEM 7 pin light/brake connector to a 4 wire flat plug connector. The other type used where there is no factory tow package, is a pair (I think) of "tee" connectors that plug into the existing factory wiring harness. The existing harness connectors unplug, and the tee connectors are inserted between the OEM connectors. You may have to move spare to help get to the plugs, as I have not looked due to the fact that I have the tow package. While I am certain that the load you are towing is well within the capacity, I personally do not have much faith in bumper mounted towing. I always use a receiver (2") if for no other reason than versatility (bike rack,
carry platform, pintle hook etc.).
Bookitty
By the way, the bumper is rated for a 2000lb towing capacity but I believe hitch weight is limited to 100 lbs? Someone may wish to clarify that. For what you're pulling, the hitch mount should be just fine.
I do however, concur with Bookitty. The receiver hitch can be much more versatile and I have one on my Quad. It's nice to be able to remove the ball when not being used AND your license plate doesn't get all banged up backing up to a trailer.
fat_fenders
Good points also on the bumper mounted hitch. I'm still on the fence on this one although I am leaning to a bumper mounted ball.
Thanks again for all your help. This is my first truck and I just want to make sure I'm doing things the right way.
Dan
I ordered a Stockland Tonneau cover from them on Aug. 4th. Was told it would take 10 days to get it out of Calif. Two weeks went by - no tonneau. Went in to check on order and was told "truck leaves CA thurs night and gets in Monday morning - check back." Checked back the next Monday (Aug 23) and no tonneau. 4W.P. called Stockland - no record of order @#$*! Reordered tonneau - 10 days to get. Checked back the 4th of sept. (one month now) and was told it missed the truck! Next week they promise. Got a call Monday Sept 11th - tonneaus in! NO-REALLY!! Picked it up, took it home and my quad cab now had a tonneau---------FOR A CLUB CAB. As I reached for the chain saw I thought I had better call 4W.P. They thought I was joking -- NO-REALLY-I'M-NOT!!! 4WP called Stockland that day and they said it WOULD BE DELIVERED this week. I called Stockland Thurs. to see if it had shipped. Got three different answers over two phone calls. From missed truck to wasn't bowed yet to being repainted because of run. Another week (THEY PROMISE-YEA RIGHT). I'm not sure either company cares. Money has changed hands so?!? My truck was built faster than this.
Sorry so long, but just wanted to post to vent and let others beware of these two companies. (and to give boo and Iowa someone new to pick on)
I'll let ya'll know when my XMAS gift comes in!
Keith
I've now gotten into a reasonably effective habit... Once you have an approximate delivery date on a part, add a week, and send a letter (or e-mail) of understanding, giving them a "drop-dead" date to deliver, call with an order status, or face a "decline" on the credit charge. It's no guarantee of any action, but at least it's on paper (or printout as it were).
FYI- Got it at www.atlantaauto.com $438.00 delivered. (3 days) Can't say enough good things about them.
By the way it is the same place that sent me my nerfs in 46 hours. $206.00 at my door step. I know someone else was asking about those.
Allen-
Received email today that item will be shipped today.
Asked vendor via email for tracking number as I like to know where my "money" is. They responded within a few hours with tracking number and indicated it was shipped FedEx. Checked FedEx website. Item scanned for pickup this afternoon and it was shipped 2ND DAY! For free? Am I dreaming?????
Atlanta Auto was one of a number of vendors authorized by Westin on their web site. Checked 'em all. Most said something about the best prices on the net, BUT didn't include shipping. Atlanta Auto is the cheapest @ $199.93.
This place rocks!
fat_fenders
I whish all the others could be 1/2 as great with their service.
My .02$
Allen-
Bookitty
Another that I would publicly recommend is Quadratech. All I ordered was a lousy $50 K&N filter element, so my order was obviously not the mother lode... Ordered on a Wednesday, the FedEX tracking number showed up on Thursday, and my filter arrived via FedEX on Saturday morning. Considering I paid only for UPS Ground, I was more than impressed that it arrived via 2nd-day FedEX!
It's important to pass on the negative experiences and cautions about suppliers to other "members of the board" (as I myself have done). But perhaps it's even MORE important to pass on news of the POSITIVE experiences!
You are right 2 beers and only 1 skinned knuckle! My neighbor 4 beers and 2 clean hands. In a strange way we both ended up happy.
Allen-
Armed with that info, I'm CERTAIN you could find a suitable plug-in. I personally have gone with the entire Borla cat-back. However, Borla just came out with a plug-in muffler line called "Boomers." If you want a stainless steel unit, you might check them out... I'd either call them or e-mail direct for copies of their Main Catalog (Form #21174) and their Fall/Winter (or latest) Catalog Supplement (e-mail me for a direct e-mail contact at Borla).
If stainless steel isn't an issue, I'm sure there are other reputable makers (Flowmaster, Gibson, Edelbrock, etc.) who could fill the bill.
BIGAL & OTHERS -- Not to hammer an issue to death, but I broke down and picked up a copy of the Peterson's 4-Wheel issue from which you cited the rather negligible HP gains with a Borla cat-back system (Toyota V-8). And now, there are not one but TWO information gaps I see in the test as documented.
FIRST, the article shows HP gains of 2-1/2 to 13 HP with a marginal "sweet spot" between 50 and 75 mph and greatest gains in the illegal 80-90 mph range. HOWEVER, no torque numbers were given. This seems odd, since in another dyno test 5 pages later, both hp and torque numbers were listed.
SECOND, the Toyota test methodology seems to fly in the face of "run-in" information listed in the Borla catalog.
In the Toy test, the stock exhaust was pulled, the Borla cat-back installed, and the truck strapped immediately onto the dyno for testing.
Here's what Borla has to say in its factory catalog.
(Quote) "Late model cars and trucks are computer controlled to such an extent that it may take a period of time (600-800 miles) before the computer reprograms to reflect the improved flow characteristics of a new Borla exhaust system." (Unquote)
Why that factor was not mentioned in the Toy test (particularly with a Borla tech present!) is beyond me. A graph in the Borla catalog (adjacent to that qualifier) shows a more respectable gain from 184.9 rear-wheel hp to 193.1 (presumably after the run-in period) on a stock '97 Ford Expedition. The "sweet spot" was consistent from 3200 - 3800 rpm.
Again, not trying to hammer this... Just suggesting that while numbers don't lie, missing data and questionable test methodologies can significantly alter numbers.
BTW... Did your bumper-to-body line up well after the brush guard install? I'm still envious here!
(To all... Sorry to hog space... Promise I'll go cold turkey for a few days! Honest! Sincerely!!!)
(IMHO... the $prices$ are pretty steep for some bent metal tubing...)
http://www.intenseperformance.com/products/products.html
Towcrazy: I am not sure I disagree about the learning curve with the computer on that Tundra cat back. I would like to see (hope) Petersen's would do the right thing and retest (dyno) in 4-5000 miles. That would be extremely useful information to say the least.
That said the computer would have to get really smart to change "my" mind. I guess one has to weigh price to horsepower against one another. $300.00 for 5 hp no way. It is a little early for me to spend that much hoping the computer learns to my satisfaction. Which means at least a certain 15-20 hp from top to bottom..
BTW- It all (Westin sportsman grill/brush guard) lined up to an 1/8". Fixed that with 1 washer.
Towcrazy, maybe you need an accessories fiend like myself to help you install all these goodies.LOL..
Allen-
I know I promised not to post again... But about the Westin bar? Three days after grovelling in the gravel under the truck, my wife still complained of pebbles popping out of my back in bed... Time to move the bikes out of the garage and get serious about the Quad???
Allen-
Taken directly from their email, they told me the following:
<< We do have your info, the filter you need for the 4.7 motor is not done yet, we are looking for it to release next month, as soon as it is we
will send it to you. Sorry for the delay. >>
I told them a number of people on the Edmund's web site were using the 33-2084 on their 4.7s and that's where I got the number from. If there was a problem with that number, I had asked them to respond so that I could post the "why" and provide the right number. Here's K&N's answer:
<< THAT FILTER IS NOT THE RIGHT FILTER, #33-2175 IS GOING TO BE THE RIGHT FILTER TO USE. WE FEEL 33-2084 DOES NOT SEAL PROPERLY. >>
Just to play devil's advocate...For those running filters not approved by K&N for 4.7l application, I'd wonder how DC would view that should a problem occur???
Fodder for thought.
fat_fenders
that is why i didnt get the pe top and electric lock, i could have gotten a manual lock but then i would have needed 2 keys to open the tailgate and the r-n-l could do the job with one key and at about the same price (v series) it was the best choice for me. now if i could do it again i think i would get the fold a cover but thats another story.
sorry so long everyone but its something to consider
good luck,
robert
dave.
robert
Found a nice fiberglass topper by Eagle that blends pretty well with lines of the truck. If you're looking for a topper, you'll want to consider this one. (I paid about $900 with typical tinted window, rear slider package)
Bad experience with Finnegan RV (Beloit, Wisc.) in mounting the unit. Shop elsewhere. They scratched the first one up, and managed to blow fuse on all my rear brake lights during installation. (I enjoyed tracing this problem on the side of the highway. Lesson learned, always check every darned thing before you drive away.) The replacement topper they gave me had a 2" crack in the fiberglass. I insisted on new unit or repainting the first one. Owner complied, but repeatedly feigned inability to see scratches I pointed out. Owner did not express concern about my cap problems, and was more concerned with getting me out of his hair. If I hadn't needed the cap badly, I'd have gone elsewhere and ordered again.
Thanks to all of you who steered me into my QC with your excellent postings and honest feedback. I'm really enjoying the truck.
4WD -- As mornings are now dipping below freezing here, I just realized that I haven't even tried 4W high or low in the 5 months I've had the truck! Guess it's time to go outside and play!
EXHAUST -- The Borla cat-back system has arrived, and installation is scheduled for Monday. For anyone interested, I'll shoot some "before" (stock) and "after" (Borla) MPEGS and make them available via e-mail. If the sound is a bit too aggressive for me (I'm not a big "noise guy"), my contingency plan is to switch from the stock tip to Borla's "power-tip" (a slick carbon fiber unit that quiets down the exhaust tone).
The Mopar cover appears to have a mounting rail on the tailgate, and the Mopar brochure indicates that you can lock both the cover and the tailgate.
The Fold-a-Cover does not appear to have any mounting rail on the tailgate, and their web site indicates that, while the cover can be locked, the tailgate cannot.
I recall someone in the past saying that Fold-a-Cover may have made the folding cover for Mopar, which may be true, but in this respect at least, the covers do not appear identical.
FIRST... They are one-and-the-same. The Mopar cover is, in fact, a standard Fold-a-Cover.
SECOND... There is no tailgate mounting rail on either unit. The photo in Dodge's "Red Book" is deceiving in that it "looks" like there's a mounting rail for the cover along the top of the tailgate. In fact, however, that's simply a tailgate rail protector that is NOT a part of the cover system.
THIRD... Mopar states in its literature that the folding cover "secures" both the cover and tailgate. In a VERY LOOSE SENSE, it does. That is, the locking latch on the cover section has a "lip" slides under an "ear" on the tailgate... sufficient to "secure" the tailgate in the "up" position, say, in the event that the gate were not securely latched. HOWEVER, there's a HUGE difference between "securing" the gate and "locking" the gate. With the gate "secured" by the lip on the cover's locking latch, popping the tailgate open would require nothing more than a hearty "jerk" on the tailgate latch.
This is why I suggested the use of a secondary lock for the gate, separate from the cover's "security lip." (I selected the "Pop-n-Lok" unit that slips right over the tailgate latch)
In spite of that drawback, I'm still thoroughly pleased with how the Fold-a-Cover performs (so far!)
Say HUH? Everybody who looks at graphs of HP and torque should understand the importance of HP vs RPM instead of HP vs SPEED. This is ridiculous. Unless the transmission was locked in high gear for the whole test, the test results are truly incomprehensible. I suspect the transmission was locked in high gear, because the results are linear, but WHY oh WHY would anybody bother to post results in MPH instead of doing the simple conversion to RPM?
I know the dyno test is measured at rear wheels (instead of flywheel of old days) to account for rotational and frictional losses in the drivetrain, but still, it's not like you are actually going to realize the posted HP at real driving MPH because there are still other inefficiencies unaccounted for.
And finally, in my tirade, who the heck cares what the horsepower at 70MPH is? It's not like you are trying to accelerate quickly from 70MPH. Maybe you care for climbing steep hills without bogging. But in general, you have plenty of excess HP to maintain 70MPH.
I'd much rather know the HP vs RPM, and TORQUE vs RPM, after computer-adjusted breakin. Or 0-60MPH times, to give an indication of improved performance.
The way the test was performed and presented, at least on this forum, leaves me with little faith that a meaningful test was run.
Sorry to vent, its not anybody's fault here, but HP vs MPH ... I'm still bristling at the idiocy of how the results were presented.
Hey, great discussion on this, though, about reasons why or why not newer engines may not see the significant performance gains of older engines.
I've been debating that with friends as well, wondering if any significant performance was left.
Personally, if any gains are to be made, I'd run a whole new exhaust (headers to tailpipe) if I wanted to be sure of substantial gains. Along with an appropriate intake mod. Any improvements in the path of airflow only result in improving to the next weakest link.