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Dodge Dakota Accessories and Modifications

bonnie_rickbonnie_rick Posts: 115
edited June 2014 in Dodge
etc. have you found necessary/helpful for your

Bonnie Rick
Conferences Manager, Town Hall


  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    Without fender flares the truck just looks naked.

    Spoke with a Club Cab owner last evening and he said the flender flairs kept a lot of road grime off the truck. He had installed the R/T lowering kit and wide tires.

    My flares were supposed to be here last week. Still waiting.....
  • colbatescolbates Posts: 37
    A bed liner of some sort. 2nd day of having my vehicle I put a couple sheets of plywood and the next day a cooler. Instant scratches. Not a problem though, truck was schedualed to have a Rhino liner installed the following week. I love it. 3K miles later and two camping/fishing trips and no scratches, and so far easy to maintain/clean. I've heard horror stories of not being able to repair spray in liners, but the owner of the company that sold me the Rhino Liner told me he would do free repairs as long as I owned the vehicle.

    Another must have for me since I like to camp and fish I needed a boat rack for my canoe. I don't want a permanent luggage rack type so my options were limited. Of Yakima and Thule only Yakima currently offers a removeable solution. I also found impressive solutions at and However, I chose the following a removable Yakima half-rack to go over the rear passenger doors, and a Fulton Canoe caddy (T-bar that mounts to the trailer ball mount on the rear bumper). The Fulton Canoe Caddy is available at Too soon to tell if the canoe caddy is the solution for me, but it looks good and the whole system (Yakima and caddy) was just over $200.

    I have Smittybuilt Sure Step bars on order. I'm also considering getting a Safari Bar for the front, Window vent visors, and the door sill guards. I'm also looking for some mud and snow floor mats that I like the looks of. (I don't like the looks of the Husky liners)
  • jpwoodrowjpwoodrow Posts: 7
    We get a lot of them here in the Northeast, especially at night. I installed some Lund stainless steel grill and bumper inserts last week. They do a great job keeping bugs and stones out of the radiator, and they look good too.
  • Resent additions:
    K&N replacement filter, notice improvement in high end response.

    Wagner Xenon bright lights headlight bulbs - the only thing that Dodge needs from Daimler is some headlight technology. Dodge is concistantly slammed for their lights. As a long time MOPAR owner this is true.

    Mud Flaps - even with the factory flares dirt still all up the sides. Rear, are regular rectangular truck type with anti-sail bars - gotta keep the trailer clean. Front small rubber standard flares.

    Locking rack for HI - Lift jack, don't leave home without it!
  • david150david150 Posts: 5
    Just got a '00 Dakota. Should I get a drop in liner or a spray in and cap or no cap? Opinions/suggestions? Thanks.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    David, I have a drop in Tuffliner in my Quad, as it has slots that allow me to divide the bed into 3 sections using 2X12 boards. I purchased the liner on Route 130 in Burlington, NJ at the truck shop there. I also have an A.R.E. tonneau cover made from fiberglass and color matched. But David, you must choose what works best and suits your particular needs and budget. A.R.E. also offers a $20.00 coupon on their web site.

  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    Depends on how you plan on using your truck.

    A drop in liner will distribute weight and blows from dropped firewood, cinder blocks, engines, other heavy loads thereby reducing or eleveating dents in the bed. The drawback is that they do shimie and shake in the bed causing abraision rubs on the paint. Water, sand, dirt can and does get between the liner and the bed agravating the abrasion factor.

    A spray on liner becomes the top layer of the truck and is not removable. It is easy to wash, reduces load sliding and provides some protection against dents from heavy loads. You can still use all the built in features of the bed like the slots to stop load shifting and for load supporting across the wheel wells. Available in a variety of colors but the manufacuters tend to stear you toward basic black since the other colors may fade and are not always a true match to your truck color.

    Cap vs. No Cap Depends on the size of the loads you plan on carrying and if you need lockable space. No cap and a locking truck tool box would still provide a "locking trunk" but leave the bed available for hauling. A cap provides a weather proof covered area that can be locked. Available with all sorts of ammenities like flossing (carpeting), lights, sliding windows, hinged windows, screens, etc. Caps can be removed. Typically only require four C clamps. Caps weigh about 150 lbs so require two people to lift, not because of the weight but the bulky size.

    Bed height covers are available in both soft and hard style. Depending on how accessible and style you like.
  • tpmillertpmiller Posts: 45
    Friend rigged up a simple overhead pully system in his garage and was able to place/remove cap singlehandidly.
    I have received a lot of compliments on the "BedRug" I installed, which I critiqued in one of the Dak posts about a month ago. Overall, find it to be a nice compromise between spray or drop-in liner.
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    Looked at the Bedrug product. Had them send me a sample in the mail. Looked like it would hold up to abuse and provide significant comfort. I was leary about having to vacum my cargo area. I did think it would be nice for camping.

    How has yours held up? Does it require much cleaning to keep it looking nice? How do the tie downs work? Do they stick thru or bolt over top the bedrug? How does the Bedrug end at the top of the tailgate? Do you have a tailgate rail? Does the rug fit over or under the tailgate rail?
  • david150david150 Posts: 5
    You guys are the best! I am starting to get a better picture of what I am going to get. Thanks for the suggestions.
  • newquadnewquad Posts: 33
    Check out the project vehicle (site commander) under the cap company ARE's website. Very cool. I am thinking of having one of those retractable truck beds for my two dog crates I carry. My one reluctance was to get a cap for the truck, and have to climb and clamber in it to get both dogs (German Shepherds) and crates in there. Sounds like a great idea to have a "slide out" bed.

    Also, for those who transport dogs in the back of a truck with a cap, does the air conditioning reach them with the sliding window on both the cap and truck?? Just wondering what kind of window arrangement I need for maximum ventilation especially in hot weather.
  • gbilhimergbilhimer Posts: 53
    I got a Line-X spray in for my Quad. I had a Ford with a drop in liner and hated it. My dad has a ext. cab Dakota with the Bedrug and a fiberglass cover. I must say it is nice and would be my choice if I was going to cover the bed with a cover or shell. I haul dirtbikes in my bed so the Line-X was a good choice for my situation. I guess it all just depends on your planned truck useage. By the way the spray in cost me $350
  • tpmillertpmiller Posts: 45
    Cleans out with a hose. Comes in 2 peices, sides and front, zipped together with bottom and tailgate. One sided tape, velcro. Fit is good,under rail, does not go over top of gate. I removed the tie downs, cut out rug with utility knife and replaced. The way the tiedowns are situated, the rear cuts come close to the zipper, took maybe an hour for install. The only real fault is the zipper head (zipper is on underside),which I taped up to prevent scratches to the bed. Eventually will be putting tonneau on, but not necessary. I like it.
  • I have an A.R.E. cap with the "flipper" side windows and a sliding front window. With the side windows and front slider open I've been told by one of my men that the a/c reaches all the way to the rear. And that is in central Texas so I'm confident that it will work just as well for dogs, my two didn't seem to mind a recent trip to San Angelo and back. They usually let me know if they are not happy.
  • I just recently purchased a Dakota X-cab. I'm looking to get an over-the-rail Line-X liner. My question is: does the over-the-rail liner prevent me from putting a cap on at some point in the future?

    The Line-X dealer said he didn't THINK it would be a problem, but he wasn't too convincing.

    Any first hand knowledge or experience would be appreciated.


  • I have an over the rail Diamond Liner along with my A.R.E. cap and they work well together. Your cap should be installed with a sealer tape between it and the bed rail and if the Line-X has a relatively smooth finish like the Diamond Liner you shouldn't have any sealing problems. One of the benefits with the over the rail is that the tailgate is protected from the lift door of the cap rubbing against it.
  • steve234steve234 Posts: 460
    If you run with both sliders open to let the a/c get back to the dogs, check with the cap dealer or an RV dealer for a pass through seal. They make a foam seal that fits between the vehicle and cap to make an efficient arrangement. You can also place a 12v fan in the opening to maximize the cooling effct, but it doesn't get that hot in SF.
  • Does anyone have an aftermarket source for same-color (Patriot Blue) side molding for a 2000 Club cab?

    Thanks in advance,

  • newquadnewquad Posts: 33
    Thanks all for the advice on caps and dogs. I am planning on getting the ARE CX model with the 1/4 sliders and front sliding window. The cap dealer said he spoke with a vet and she said that the 1/4 sliders are plenty ventilation for the dogs. And I plan on using the inflatable thingy or foam thingy between the cap and truck on those really hot days (I travel to Livermore with the dogs, and it gets hot out there in the summer).
    Thanks again!
  • wbournewbourne Posts: 2
    Does anyone know if it is possible to mount tow hooks on a '00' Dakota. They come in handy for clearing brush and fallen trees.
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    I looked at the Durango and they have color coded body side molding. It appears to have the color encasulated in clear plastic bonded to the black rubber molding. The front doors should be the same size as the Durango. The back doors are pretty close. If not close enough, you could order 4 front door molding and trim for the rear doors.

    I have the two tone (silver rocker panels) paint scheme. The black molding is not what I want.
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    In one of the older DAK topics someone mentioned that under the rear passenger side of the spare tire is a "Y" in the wiring harness. There is a single wire pigtale with a label "CHMSL" (Center High Mounted Stop Lamp??). They were going to test and confirm but never seemed to get back to the topic.

    Can anyone with the Big Orange Book confirm or deny that this pigtail is prewired for the center mount brake light? I am having a bed cap installed this week and they want to splice into the tail lights. I to have this pigtail and it seems like this would be a much easier and better choice. Could Dodge possibly have foreseen this need and prewired for a Cyclops break light?
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    On the Quad the pigtail is tucked up between the spare and the bumper on the passenger side. It is labled CHMSL. I had a Leer topper put on my Quad and they used the pigtail. They were going to splice into the lights for the topper dome light. I would not let them hook it up. I'm going to tap into the 7 wire connector for the trailer hookup ( I have the trailer tow package) there is a 12 volt source with a 40amp fuse that will work just fine for me. Rick
  • iowabigguyiowabigguy Posts: 552
    PS, I was told by the topper installer that most trucks made since 93 have a pigtail for the third light from the factory.
  • 99slt99slt Posts: 14
    I'm looking for heavy vinyl bed-rail guards. Mopar makes a checker-plate chrome guard, but I'm looking for one similar to those made by FFFFFFFord (just can't say that word). Also looking for a ladder rack (side mounted) not one that goes over the the whole bed. Does any have any experience with either of these two after market items? Thanks in advance.
  • quark99quark99 Posts: 136
    My dealer quoted me $48 apiece for the color-matched molding strips, thats $200 for all four for the Quad, ouch...
    (that's after the 10% DC owner discount, regularly $53 apiece) It seems rather steep...and
    I thought the $30 for the 4 sill protectors was expensive....guess I'm looking for some aftermarket stuff, too..
  • vmanvman Posts: 103
    I went to an auto paint supply store. The top aftermarket moulding manufacturer seems to be Pro Stripe. The guy let me take his sample book out to the parking lot to compare with the truck. The book actually had a Dodge section that seemed to match OEM styles pretty well. I have a sport, so black was the ticket, but for $45, there was enough material to do both sides front to back. Just thought I'd toss that in if it will help.

    BTW, for sport owners, the Pro Stripe M-104 ties in beautifully with the black section of the rear bumper.
  • resqmanresqman Posts: 71
    Thanks for the confirmation about the CHMSL pigtail. I will make sure the bed cap installer knows about it. They offered a 12 volt light and they were going to steal power from the brake lights. I did not like the idea of that.

    I also had a sinking feeling that someone would inadvertantly leave the light on in the bed and drain the battery. I asked if the installer would tie into the bed light mounted on the cab so that I could control the light from inside the cab. He responded "Why would you want to turn the light on from inside the cab when you will be looking in the bed?" 1) I have a rear sliding window so the kids can reach into the bed from inside the cab while riding to get stuff. 2)So that it is part of the vehicle lighting system that turns itself off automagically after 15 minutes so I don't drain the battery. 3)Because I am the customer and that is what I want. Anyway the installer refused on the grounds it was too complicated for them to figure out.

    Instead I ordered the cap with two battery lights. One center rear, one center forward. Basically a flashlight screwed to the roof of the cap. One for access from the rear sliding window and one for access from the tailgate. I anticipate using up a few batteries when one gets left on by accident but at least the vehicle will start. Hey, that is why Sam's sells batteries in 12 packs.
  • vmanvman Posts: 103
    Hmmmm.... Some of those touch lite things might do well for that application.

    Accessory Review:

    I just installed the BAK rail caps. Nice product, but I'm a little disappointed with the final appearance. There is some variation in mine that makes one side seem shorter than the other. Starting from the back during installation, there's no way to adjust this. Also, the lines (when looking down the outside of the bed) are somewhat crooked and seem to drop towards the rear. Not a huge problem, just annoying. My truck had a dealer installed pin stripe and the caps visually throw the lines off a little.
  • tjumptjump Posts: 14
    Last week I received and installed the rack on my Quad Cab. The basic rack is composed of a pair of rails that mount on the bed-rails. The rack comes in two forms, one that mounts with bolts vertical through the top of the bed rails, and one that mounts with bolts horizontal through the inside lip of the bed rails (I have the latter). While the adverts & online catalog (at do not have this length shown, the rack rails come pre-made in a length specifically for the Quad Cab and require no preparation on the owner's part prior to installation. The rack rails are made of aluminum, coated in black (electrolytically I think, it is NOT paint). The inside lip nearly covers the inside lip of the bed rail, providing it good protection IMHO from stuff carried in the bed. Mounting the rails after my Mopar drop-in under-rail bed cover was installed was no problem. The kit THEORETICALLY comes with all mounting hardware (stainless steel bolts and nylock-insert locking nuts) and a single-sheet of instructions - I say theoretically because rackwarehouse actually omitted them from my package - they are sending me a kit however, after the fact as it is. I just ran out to Lowes and bought some appropriate hardware because I needed to get the rack on the truck. The package that I received additionally came with Yakima bicycle rack components (locking RailRider towers, cross-bars, and Boa bike mounts).

    Mounting is simple: place the rack rail on the side of the bed, hold it in place, drill pilot holes with a 1/8" bit, and then final holes with a 1/4" bit. Once the holes are drilled, bolt the rack rail to the truck bed and that is it. Repeat for other rail. I do not know if the hardware kit comes with any "friction tape" or equivalent, but in my personal paranoia I did not want the possibility of vibration between the rails and the truck bed, so I put some neoprene washers between the rails and the truck (fixed to the rails with Goop adhesive). This will have the additional advantage of allowing any water that gets between the rails and the truck to more easily evaporate.

    Once the rack rails are installed, putting the Yakima RailRider towers on and the rest of the bicycle rack hardware was dead-simple (much easier than clamp-on Yakima roof rack that I've been using on my Honda for the last five years). With the Yakima lock-cores installed, I now have the capability of completing locking the bikes attached to the truck. Good "keep honest people honest" security.

    The rack looks good, particularly with the over-the-top bed-front and tailgate portions of the Mopar cover, and is doing a good job of protecting the sides rails of the bed, both inner lip and top. The width of the rack will easily accomodate three forward facing mountain bikes, five or six if interleaved forward-backward. With both Yakima rails used to support the bikes front and back, everything would be elevated above the bed rails, leaving the truck bed for other cargo.

    After using this for two weeks I am very happy with the configuration from all three sides (strength, security, and looks).

    I am only "middling" impressed with RackWarehouse. The took almost two weeks to get the stuff to me via UPS (they are in N.H., I am in Texas), they forgot the mounting hardware & instructions - but faxed the instructions to me when asked and are sending me the hardware. Their prices were good, hopefully the lack that I experienced was an anomoly.

This discussion has been closed.