I have a 91 celica st. 4afe engine. I have no pics to describe the part Im talking about here goes.
Facing the engine it is on the left end. Right above the belts and in front of the oil dip stick. It is a black hard plastic that looks like it is covering a belt. I just started hearing a loud rubbing sound coming from this cover. Can anyone tell me what part is in there and how serious the part is? There are no leaks. Is it the water pump or something that important. It just started today. When I accelerate it tends to quiet down,
I have a 92 celica GT 2.2 engine automatic trans Also getting the same problem what is a fix?????
Facing the engine it is on the left end. Right above the belts and in front of the oil dip stick. It is a black hard plastic that looks like it is covering a belt. I just started hearing a loud rubbing sound coming from this cover. Can anyone tell me what part is in there and how serious the part is? There are no leaks. Is it the water pump or something that important. It just started today. When I accelerate it tends to quiet down,
i am modifing my celica by putting a 350 c.i. chevy motor . i need to know if there is any info for me . so i can start my project. i like to find if there is any kits for doing this swap . thanks in avance for your help..
I am not aware of any "KIT" for a Celica / Chevy motor exchange. Please let us know how your creative project takes shape, some pix would be great. Rolf
I noticed my GTS overheating and check the raidiort fluid. There is what looks like oil in the antifreeze. I hope it's just a head gasket but want know until I tear the engine down. Any information on how difficult this job is?
hey, i have a question to ask you guys here. i have a 04 celica GT, i dont know whats wrong with it can you please help me out?? the problem is that the car hiss when i turn it off. and when the car idels/ being turn off it like the engine is shakeing before it dies. can anyone help????
Do you have a drop in the engine oil level? Try a compression test and check your plugs for oil residue Check / replace your thermostat, test in hot water.
Looking for a reasonably priced, reasonably miled engine for a 2002 toyota celica gt. Preferably a J-Spec. I am having trouble finding anything that would safice. If you know where i can get one please let me know.
Hello everyone, I own a 1990 Toyota Celica, which i love to bits!! No real big work done on it as of yet but was planning on starting to spend some money on it very soon. Only problem being I recently had a collision and people have been telling me once it is fixed I should try to get rid of it. The crash not being my fault (someone ran a red light and hit me) has resulted in the car having damage to the front left passenger side of the car and thats all i know as of yet. I was hit at about 80kms/hr.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should do with it once it is fixed and or if once it is fixed it will be the same as before the collision?
I have a 1989 Toyota Celica convertible with a 3SFE engine and manual transmission. This issue began in November 2007 when my Celica check engine light first appeared while driving. I have taken my car to an independent mechanic. Computer codes read either 25 (too lean) or 26 (too rich). My mechanic, in stages, has replaced the O2 sensor, the fuel filter, the spark plugs, the EGR valve, and has made numerous rich and lean air adjustments to a screw under an aluminum covered plug in the MAFM (Mass Air Flow Module). In total, So far, I have spent $915.84 on four separate occasions between 11/22/07 and 06/26/08. The Check Engine light continues to come on while driving, at intervals of 22 miles to 305 miles. What can be done to correct this problem? Otherwise, my Celica operates and drives normally. It has 117,300 original miles, no hesitation, or other indications of any problems while driving. Thank you for your help
:sick: What could be causing my car not to start? Currently my starter,battery, alternator, ignition connections grounds are good so what could be the problem could be a certain relay fuse? They have been checked and also my timing belt was checked but it has been difficult trying to determine what is the problem. It seems electrical but I am so confused and I do not want to loose my celica they I have been keeping up with the maintenance promptly. Please give me advise oon how to go about resolving my celicas starting problem? Thank you, Deb :confuse:
I cannot figure this out, I push the clutch in and put the car in 1st , and if I let it sit for a few seconds in gear with the clutch pressed in it will start to disengage without me letting the clutch out (this happens sometimes in 2nd and happens a lot in reverse as well).
I just put a new clutch kit in the car and it made no difference, it did this before I replaced the clutch and it does it the exact same now after. I bled the clutch as well and it made no difference (the fluid is pretty dirty but I don't think that would cause this problem).
Anyone have ANY idea what this is? Please help! Thanks!
i've got a toyota celica 97 im looking for an engine but its a front wheel drive did they make a 2.0 liter front wheel drive performance engine for this model all the 3sgte engines i can find are awd and i wasnt lookin to modify that much
I have a problem with the engine stalling when you accelerate aftercoming to a stop. The engine idles good, but when you press the pedal to the floor the engine dosen't response. It dosen't make any noise and as soon as you let up on the pedal , you can hear it idling again. This problem dosen't happen all the time. Also after tring to trouble shoot this problem, I developed another problem. I was looking at the throttle body. I removed a few vacuum line to see if I could get the engine to stall and put them back. There is a vacuum line coming from the valve cover going to the intake behind the throttle body. When I removed it the engine killed. After starting it back up, there was white smoke poring out the exhaust. I removed the oil cap from the valve cover and there was stong vacuum on it. I stopped the engine and removed the vacuum line again and there was oil in the line. Are these two problems related and how can I fix them?
92 corolla seca hatch runs fine, will sometimes stop while driving, will then turn over but not re-start, a few hours later or next morning will re-start will then run fine for a few days or weeks then problem will re-happen any ideas? thanks
I recently was driving down the freeway with the cruise control on. i hit the brakes because someone cut me off and instead of the cruise control turning off the car started accelerating out of control. i had to stand on the brakes to stop the car and turn off the engine. when i started the car back up the engine almost pegged out. it took several start and stop engine trys before it stopped. Any help on this would be appreciated.
Our celica quit running while driving. It stummbled then just quit. It has a new timing belt and tune-up 300 miles ago. I have checked for spark, timing, and fuel pressure after the filter and all is good. It isn't showing any codes but still will not fire, any suggestions?
I have 94 Toyota celica. It has been around one week that I have exprienced a rapid right signal pulsating turn sound. I wonder what it may be cause my left turn signal light pulsates normal sounding. i wonder what could be the problem. Could it be a relay or something simple?- Please give ideas to repair it so I do not gave to take it to the Toyota Dealer mechanic. Thank you, D.A. :sick:
The "fast flashing" turn signal can indicate a bulb is burned out (the simple solution) so first do a walk around and see if you can see one out. Since you say it's only on the right side, I'd almost bet that's the issue, but start with the bulbs first
I have a 95 with the same problem---- heres what I did-- in the fuse box mine has a little toggle switch for a car alarm--- I through it the opposite way held the door open and it cranked--- try with the door closed or what ever---one time i had to unhook the positive cable from the batt and then throw the switch the other way with the door open good luck may u find the right combination but my problem :shades: and sounds like urs too is in the that alarm sys.
I have a 2001 Celica and there has been nothing but problems with it. I have approximately 75,000 miles on it, not very much. Just before the 5 yr. warranty was up, it started leaking oil and ultimately the entire engine was replaced. I have had to replace the clutch twice.......have been driving stick shifts since 1977 and never had to replace a clutch. I have also replaced 2 serpentine belts. The 2nd clutch was replaced recently and since then the car smells like burning rubber. I spoke to the dealer today and was told they replaced a seal, but I am leaking oil. Now they are saying it might be the converter. I refuse to put another penny into this car and think Toyota should be responsible for what I have already invested in. I see by some posts that there is a problem with oil leakage, and now I would like to know about any transmission and serpentine belt problems. Thanks. 01Celica1
Hey I bought my celica with 52k on it about 3 yrs ago. I have always put in fuel injection cleaner to clear up the sputtering about every 4 to 5 mths. It always clears it up until now.. Should I go to have the injectors cleaned with the machine they have or is that gonna be a waste of money? It needs a tune up anyway plus I have had the wonderful 0240 code since I bought it. I put so much into it and just gave up trying to figure it out. I dont think they are related but ive already had a bunch of stuff replaced, o2s cat was fine at the time had it checked. Any ideas let me know. JG
JG I read your posting in reference to you getting a fuel injector cleaner every 4 to 5 months. You might want to to use premium gas instead of regular cause I only use premium gas to prevent the sputtering. I know the premium gas is more expensive but try it. Let know how it works for you. DA
Thanks for the info, as it turned out the new distributor cap that I installed had resistance in the coil lead that would still give me a spark indication but not strong enough to fire the plug under compression.The new cap only had 300 miles on it. Thanks again for everyones input. Don
Sorry for th elack of info but this is my first dealing with a Celica. I bought my son a 97, with the 1.8 Lt engine. Here is the problem. When the engine is started, it is running very rough, shaken just sounds bad. When I adjust the throttle body up to around 2500 rpm, the engine smooths out and sounds great, let the throttle body back to idle, it goes back to rough. I bought parts, plugs, new wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Any ideals to look at before I put in the new parts? Looking forward to many replays! Thanks Butch
I had a similar problem with my 2000 Celica. It turned out to be clogged fuel injectors. My car also made a popping sound wile I was accelerating until I got over 1000 rpm. Ultimately had to have a mechanic clean the injectors. That was a year age, and it's back to sputtering. I did see a prior post about using a higher grade of gas. hope that helps.
I Have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS, I had it running the other day and took the oil filler cap off and noticed it was blowing air not sucking still blew air even when i reved it, is it normal or is someing wrong?
dalicea97-I am actually writing to find out what fixed your starting problem with your Celica back in 2008, I had been following your story. A friend of mine also has a 94 Celica with same issue and her car has been in shop for over a month. they have change multiple parts with no success. I would appreciate any input.
My problem turned out to be a bad distributor cap. The cap was only a week old but had to much resistance in the coil lead that is built into the cap. When testing I would get current flow but just to weak to fire. Hope this helps, just shows that new parts aren't always good. Don
I have a 1994 Toyota Celica GT that quit running while I was driving down the highway. I think everything just shut down. Tried putting more gas, no help. Jumping it worked once, but the car shut down again a few hundred feet down the road. Jumping it again didn't work. Would prior transmission problems have anything to do with engine failure, or are there other problems that can occur with Toyota Celicas?
My Celica started sputtering when I accelerate recently, and the check engine light came on, and it turns out I have a misfire in my first cylinder, I discovered that there was liquid in my first cylinder which was causing the misfire. My mechanic told me the leak was due to my ignition coil, So I replaced it with a brand new ignition coil. A couple days later my car started sputtering when I accelerate again and it will hesitate for 2-3 seconds before finally accelerating normally. The difference is this time my check engine light isn't coming on, therefore it's not throwing any codes. So I take a look in my 1st cylinder again to discover that there is more liquid in my cylinder! This is after the brand new coil...Now I'm at a loss, my car is sputtering, and pinpointing this problem without a check engine code is seemingly impossible....Need a resolution!
By liquid, do you mean water? Could be a head gasket leaking coolant into a cylinder. Are you getting any white smoke from the exhaust? That would be a sign I would watch for.
My mechanic said that it's water possibly from rain. But the 3 days that passed after the new coil was put in there was no rain and I didn't wash my car, so there would be no reason for rain water to be there. To me it smells like coolant, And there is no white smoke coming out of my exhaust.
While driving home my celica just suddenly died and has been for about 2 months now. It wont start, all it does is the cranking sound as always. Im not a car guy so i just ask my brother about it. He says it was the ignition coil but i replaced that and it wasnt the problem, also there is an oil leak in one of the spark plug cylnders as well, which might be the problem. my dad says it might be something electrical. please help me
Could be a faulty spark plugs connector or wire. There is no spark or only weak sparks, fuel is not burned completely, leaving wet residue.
Swap the wet connector to another plug. If the new plug is wet and the old plug is dry, then connector is faulty. Replace the old connector.
If the same plug remains wet, then the cam head may have leaks which could leak coolant into the cylinder, killing the spark.
In this case, unless you find and fix the root cause the engine to overheat and crack in the first place, the engine will crack again in different places.
If you dont know what cause the over heat may be better to swap out the engine with a known-good reman or refurbed used engine
Check all rubber vacuum hoses. They are usually black rubber quarter inch diameter. If they are not plugged in or are leaky, that would cause the engine to hesitate.
2002 Celica GTS has 200K miles on it. The engine had a small oil leak in the back of the oil pan, like less 1 quart every 15K mile. I use WALMART's synthetic 0-30 oil every 15K miles and the oil never got lower than minimum each time. So it's just small leak onto the plastic bottom covers, then a small oily spot on the floor.
Removed all 16 bolts, took the oil pan out, scrape both surfaces of RTV flexible gasket, then cleaned with Acetone to get rid of any oil residue.
Squeezed Toyota black RTV flexible gasket on the surface of the pan and carefully assembled back to the engine. Oil still leaked. Suspected not enough RTV was used, so removed the pan and redo the RTV flexible gasket again. STILL LEAK but SMALLER LEAK this time.
Cleaned the engine block with degreaser and high pressure water spray at a car wash. Put the car on block, got underneath and carefully looked at the back side of the engine. The oil pan's seal looked good. Lots of RTV squeezed out of the mating surfaces.
Looks like the leak came from from the top valve cover gasket, dripping down to the belt tensioner strut. So I tightened all 10 mm bolts around the valve cover top.
There is also the stainless -steel power steering line, bolted onto the engine block with a single 14 mm bolt. The bolts looked wet with oil but not sure if there is engine oil behind it that could leak. But tighten it anyway.
That stopped the leak. The engine is now dry. I wished I had cleaned the engine block and look at it carefully to find the leaks before doing all the hard work, removing the oil pan etc...
Hi, I am currently swapping the engine on my car and it is almost ready to be pulled out but it seems to be that the wiring that goes right under the EFI head is in there pretty well. I have de attached all little clips from the engine. These are the only thing stopping me. Is there any way to de attach the wiring from both sides and is it safe for me to do so? This is my first engine swap on my toyota. Please help.
Did you get a resolve on this problem? We have similar issue w/ our '94 celica. List of parts replaced: battery, alternator, radiator, distributor, spark plugs and cables, fuel pump/filter, coolant sensor and removed the security system. Still quits running randomly. Won't re-start for days to weeks, but will start and run, then randomly stop again. Been doing this for last 9 months...very frustrating. Anybody with any ideas? All input appreciated.
Comments
Facing the engine it is on the left end. Right above the belts and in front of the oil dip stick. It is a black hard plastic that looks like it is covering a belt.
I just started hearing a loud rubbing sound coming from this cover. Can anyone tell me what part is in there and how serious the part is? There are no leaks.
Is it the water pump or something that important. It just started today. When I accelerate it tends to quiet down,
Thanks
Use a PVC pipe +- 24" long to listen and locate the noise source, like a "stethoscope".
Be careful, engine is running >>>>>>>>>
Facing the engine it is on the left end. Right above the belts and in front of the oil dip stick. It is a black hard plastic that looks like it is covering a belt.
I just started hearing a loud rubbing sound coming from this cover. Can anyone tell me what part is in there and how serious the part is? There are no leaks.
Is it the water pump or something that important. It just started today. When I accelerate it tends to quiet down,
Thanks
Please let us know how your creative project takes shape, some pix would be great.
Rolf
Thanks for any information that could help.
i have a 04 celica GT, i dont know whats wrong with it can you please help me out??
the problem is that the car hiss when i turn it off. and when the car idels/ being turn off it like the engine is shakeing before it dies.
can anyone help????
THANKS ALOT!!!!!
Try a compression test and check your plugs for oil residue
Check / replace your thermostat, test in hot water.
Make tests first, thats your best.
I own a 1990 Toyota Celica, which i love to bits!! No real big work done on it as of yet but was planning on starting to spend some money on it very soon. Only problem being I recently had a collision and people have been telling me once it is fixed I should try to get rid of it.
The crash not being my fault (someone ran a red light and hit me) has resulted in the car having damage to the front left passenger side of the car and thats all i know as of yet. I was hit at about 80kms/hr.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should do with it once it is fixed and or if once it is fixed it will be the same as before the collision?
Any thoughts would be much appreacited
Thank you,
Deb :confuse:
I just put a new clutch kit in the car and it made no difference, it did this before I replaced the clutch and it does it the exact same now after. I bled the clutch as well and it made no difference (the fluid is pretty dirty but I don't think that would cause this problem).
Anyone have ANY idea what this is? Please help! Thanks!
Also after tring to trouble shoot this problem, I developed another problem. I was looking at the throttle body. I removed a few vacuum line to see if I could get the engine to stall and put them back. There is a vacuum line coming from the valve cover going to the intake behind the throttle body. When I removed it the engine killed. After starting it back up, there was white smoke poring out the exhaust. I removed the oil cap from the valve cover and there was stong vacuum on it. I stopped the engine and removed the vacuum line again and there was oil in the line. Are these two problems related and how can I fix them?
Please give ideas to repair it so I do not gave to take it to the Toyota Dealer mechanic.
Thank you,
D.A. :sick:
01Celica1
JG
Thanks
Butch
I had a similar problem with my 2000 Celica. It turned out to be clogged fuel injectors. My car also made a popping sound wile I was accelerating until I got over 1000 rpm. Ultimately had to have a mechanic clean the injectors. That was a year age, and it's back to sputtering. I did see a prior post about using a higher grade of gas. hope that helps.
they have change multiple parts with no success. I would appreciate any input.
MAF resistance measured OK. Clean it with carburator cleaner, did not help.
Swapped in a MAF sensor form another car. Cleared all codes. Pass smog test. Car runs smooth and powerful again.
Swap the wet connector to another plug. If the new plug is wet and the old plug is dry, then connector is faulty. Replace the old connector.
If the same plug remains wet, then the cam head may have leaks which could leak coolant into the cylinder, killing the spark.
In this case, unless you find and fix the root cause the engine to overheat and crack in the first place, the engine will crack again in different places.
If you dont know what cause the over heat may be better to swap out the engine with a known-good reman or refurbed used engine
Check all rubber vacuum hoses. They are usually black rubber quarter inch diameter. If they are not plugged in or are leaky, that would cause the engine to hesitate.
Good luck
Removed all 16 bolts, took the oil pan out, scrape both surfaces of RTV flexible gasket, then cleaned with Acetone to get rid of any oil residue.
Squeezed Toyota black RTV flexible gasket on the surface of the pan and carefully assembled back to the engine. Oil still leaked. Suspected not enough RTV was used, so removed the pan and redo the RTV flexible gasket again. STILL LEAK but SMALLER LEAK this time.
Cleaned the engine block with degreaser and high pressure water spray at a car wash. Put the car on block, got underneath and carefully looked at the back side of the engine. The oil pan's seal looked good. Lots of RTV squeezed out of the mating surfaces.
Looks like the leak came from from the top valve cover gasket, dripping down to the belt tensioner strut. So I tightened all 10 mm bolts around the valve cover top.
There is also the stainless -steel power steering line, bolted onto the engine block with a single 14 mm bolt. The bolts looked wet with oil but not sure if there is engine oil behind it that could leak. But tighten it anyway.
That stopped the leak. The engine is now dry. I wished I had cleaned the engine block and look at it carefully to find the leaks before doing all the hard work, removing the oil pan etc...
List of parts replaced: battery, alternator, radiator, distributor, spark plugs and cables, fuel pump/filter, coolant sensor and removed the security system.
Still quits running randomly. Won't re-start for days to weeks, but will start and run, then randomly stop again. Been doing this for last 9 months...very frustrating.
Anybody with any ideas? All input appreciated.