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Toyota Celica Engine Problems
Grinding noise at any de-accelerating speed and gear.
Celica has only 40K miles..........
Celica has only 40K miles..........
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Facing the engine it is on the left end. Right above the belts and in front of the oil dip stick. It is a black hard plastic that looks like it is covering a belt.
I just started hearing a loud rubbing sound coming from this cover. Can anyone tell me what part is in there and how serious the part is? There are no leaks.
Is it the water pump or something that important. It just started today. When I accelerate it tends to quiet down,
Thanks
Use a PVC pipe +- 24" long to listen and locate the noise source, like a "stethoscope".
Be careful, engine is running >>>>>>>>>
Facing the engine it is on the left end. Right above the belts and in front of the oil dip stick. It is a black hard plastic that looks like it is covering a belt.
I just started hearing a loud rubbing sound coming from this cover. Can anyone tell me what part is in there and how serious the part is? There are no leaks.
Is it the water pump or something that important. It just started today. When I accelerate it tends to quiet down,
Thanks
Please let us know how your creative project takes shape, some pix would be great.
Rolf
Thanks for any information that could help.
i have a 04 celica GT, i dont know whats wrong with it can you please help me out??
the problem is that the car hiss when i turn it off. and when the car idels/ being turn off it like the engine is shakeing before it dies.
can anyone help????
THANKS ALOT!!!!!
Try a compression test and check your plugs for oil residue
Check / replace your thermostat, test in hot water.
Make tests first, thats your best.
I own a 1990 Toyota Celica, which i love to bits!! No real big work done on it as of yet but was planning on starting to spend some money on it very soon. Only problem being I recently had a collision and people have been telling me once it is fixed I should try to get rid of it.
The crash not being my fault (someone ran a red light and hit me) has resulted in the car having damage to the front left passenger side of the car and thats all i know as of yet. I was hit at about 80kms/hr.
Anyone have any thoughts as to what I should do with it once it is fixed and or if once it is fixed it will be the same as before the collision?
Any thoughts would be much appreacited
Thank you,
Deb :confuse:
I just put a new clutch kit in the car and it made no difference, it did this before I replaced the clutch and it does it the exact same now after. I bled the clutch as well and it made no difference (the fluid is pretty dirty but I don't think that would cause this problem).
Anyone have ANY idea what this is? Please help! Thanks!
Also after tring to trouble shoot this problem, I developed another problem. I was looking at the throttle body. I removed a few vacuum line to see if I could get the engine to stall and put them back. There is a vacuum line coming from the valve cover going to the intake behind the throttle body. When I removed it the engine killed. After starting it back up, there was white smoke poring out the exhaust. I removed the oil cap from the valve cover and there was stong vacuum on it. I stopped the engine and removed the vacuum line again and there was oil in the line. Are these two problems related and how can I fix them?
Please give ideas to repair it so I do not gave to take it to the Toyota Dealer mechanic.
Thank you,
D.A. :sick:
01Celica1
JG
Thanks
Butch
I had a similar problem with my 2000 Celica. It turned out to be clogged fuel injectors. My car also made a popping sound wile I was accelerating until I got over 1000 rpm. Ultimately had to have a mechanic clean the injectors. That was a year age, and it's back to sputtering. I did see a prior post about using a higher grade of gas. hope that helps.
they have change multiple parts with no success. I would appreciate any input.
MAF resistance measured OK. Clean it with carburator cleaner, did not help.
Swapped in a MAF sensor form another car. Cleared all codes. Pass smog test. Car runs smooth and powerful again.
Swap the wet connector to another plug. If the new plug is wet and the old plug is dry, then connector is faulty. Replace the old connector.
If the same plug remains wet, then the cam head may have leaks which could leak coolant into the cylinder, killing the spark.
In this case, unless you find and fix the root cause the engine to overheat and crack in the first place, the engine will crack again in different places.
If you dont know what cause the over heat may be better to swap out the engine with a known-good reman or refurbed used engine
Check all rubber vacuum hoses. They are usually black rubber quarter inch diameter. If they are not plugged in or are leaky, that would cause the engine to hesitate.
Good luck
Removed all 16 bolts, took the oil pan out, scrape both surfaces of RTV flexible gasket, then cleaned with Acetone to get rid of any oil residue.
Squeezed Toyota black RTV flexible gasket on the surface of the pan and carefully assembled back to the engine. Oil still leaked. Suspected not enough RTV was used, so removed the pan and redo the RTV flexible gasket again. STILL LEAK but SMALLER LEAK this time.
Cleaned the engine block with degreaser and high pressure water spray at a car wash. Put the car on block, got underneath and carefully looked at the back side of the engine. The oil pan's seal looked good. Lots of RTV squeezed out of the mating surfaces.
Looks like the leak came from from the top valve cover gasket, dripping down to the belt tensioner strut. So I tightened all 10 mm bolts around the valve cover top.
There is also the stainless -steel power steering line, bolted onto the engine block with a single 14 mm bolt. The bolts looked wet with oil but not sure if there is engine oil behind it that could leak. But tighten it anyway.
That stopped the leak. The engine is now dry. I wished I had cleaned the engine block and look at it carefully to find the leaks before doing all the hard work, removing the oil pan etc...
List of parts replaced: battery, alternator, radiator, distributor, spark plugs and cables, fuel pump/filter, coolant sensor and removed the security system.
Still quits running randomly. Won't re-start for days to weeks, but will start and run, then randomly stop again. Been doing this for last 9 months...very frustrating.
Anybody with any ideas? All input appreciated.