Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

zidctlr

Kevin Eastman,
I have the silver also. It looks great! A nice color choice by DC for the 2001 model!

James

Does any one know what the dealer is required to fix when it comes to a paint job?

victx

Stop by a pawn shop. I've seen dremels for as low as $20 here in San Antonio. I've got the the flex-shaft attachment for the dremel(Dremel Part #225), but I don't know if it is cheaper than the attachment you referred to. I'd lend you mine, but looking at your handle, I'll assume you are in Florida.

tuvtest

Don't let the dealer try and snow you, in most states, the warrenty does not start until YOU take possession. The travel milage to bring it to your state will be added to the warrenty milage (36,000 + 600 mi) Another option is to request that the truck be trailer to your pick up point. I have seen several dealer trades done this way.

wetwillie

Gator, I simply jacked the truck up a little (not far enough too lift the tire off the ground), it will provide enough space for the drilling required - btw, the flare and splash guard share one of the mounting screws. 2nddak, the splash guards fit perfect and look great and they keep road spray from a direct hit on the rocker panels. A caveat: The guards hang fairly low - esp. the rears - so not a good choice if you do any offroading

h_bosi

gator72,

Here is another idea:

Home Depot & other HW stores sell a flexible power-driver (bitholder) extension, for around $10. I use this attachment whenever I need to drive screws or drill in cramped spaces.

Of course, you will need a bitholder-compatible drillbit.

Good luck,

/BOSI

I

brianpha

Tuvtest,
Thanks for the reminder!! I would have never thought of the 600 miles going against the warranty!
I will remind the dealer of that today, thanks!
The truck is leaving Oregon for Washington today, but they promised an older gentleman is driving it. Sure! : )

Brian

chiefdoc2

Several years ago, I was on the fringe of a study that my company did for the Swedish Dept. of Transportation. Over a 3-year period, it was found that DAYTIME accidents along a particular stretch of rural highway were reduced THIRTY PERCENT with the ONLY change being the use of headlights. I have driven with my headlights on AT ALL TIMES now for over 15 years (be seen).

Another very good reason to run with lights on is those drivers who have a silver, dark/light blue, or gray vehicle. Picture this: Rainy, overcast day, asphalt road, and car spray added to the rain. If you drive one of the vehicles colored as above YOU ARE INVISIBLE!!! Look at the next car of your color coming toward you out of the mist. See how difficult it is to see them; now add the headlights ....... BIG DIFFERENCE!

Canada made daytime running lights mandatory a cpl years ago but, unless our NHTSA or some other federal office gets into it, Detroit iron seldom has non-MANDATED safety features.

Just a suggestion BUT, don't be invisible out there folks, ESPECIALLY if you are driving a QC (silver/gray/blue). Would like to see many more of them on the road, not in wrecking yards.

Ron

bookitty

Brian, happy to hear that you are finally getting your truck. When you take delivery, please drive carefully. Today while on the road from Oregon to Washington, an older gentlemen driving a garnet dakota with dealer plates passed me at such a high rate of speed, that I was going to get out of my truck thinking it had stopped. Actually, I was doing 87. I hate when that happens. Just kidding of course, good luck.

Bookitty

gator72

I thank everyone for the great tips on installing the rear splash guards. This is another good example of how valuable the Edmund's Owner's Club is.

On my next day off, I'll install the Splash Guards and let you know easy/difficult it was.

THANKS AGAIN!

GATOR72

gator72

I totally agree with Chiefdoc2. I've been using my headlights during daytime driving for about five years.

The more visible you are, the better your chances of avoiding an accident.

There is ANOTHER benefit of using your headlights during the daytime. If you're driving into the sun, you are just a sillouhette to the driver behind you; making it difficult to judge their distance from your rear-end. BUT, if your headlights are on, your TAIL lights are ALSO on - thus helping the driver behind you judge their distance from your rear-end. I don't know if I explained it the right way. But, I think you get my drift.

GATOR72

leigh38

Hello All
Just wanted to share a couple problems I have
had with my 2000 QC. Developed a leak in the cab.
Dealers body shop had it for a week .They said
it was splash shields around the speakers in front doors which explains radio shorting out when it rains.Well any way they fixed the leak
and replaced carpet.Now speakers sound like crap.
I have the infinite system. Sounded great before.
It goes back on Thursday. Anybody with similar problem? Thanks Leigh

amend1

Ok, here's a brain teaser. When I ordered my '00 Quad, 4.7, auto, 4WD, 3.55 rear, I did not consider the lsd option. This was mainly due to the fact that years ago, they were fraught with problems-wrong fluid, wrong additive,chatter on turns, etc. Well, I didn't consider that today they are a much better unit, so I'm giving serious consideration to installing an aftermarket lsd, probably before next winter. Auburn has e-mailed me with the part number already and there are several other manufacturers too. Any thoughts, pro or con??? Has anyone done such a swap and is it fairly easy?

ohc_baby

I'm gonna chime in here, but only to pose another question. I have a 3.55 LSD rear but am looking to go to a 3.92 or 4.10. How intensive is this, and can I retain or reuse my LSD hardware?

tuvtest

OHC- yes, you can reuse the majority of the guts
if you change gears. 3.92's would be easy as it's a
factory ratio. 4.10's might be a bit more
difficult to find. I have not researched what
ratios are available for the Dak's diff. There are
only a few bearings,crush sleeves, and shims that
you would have to use new on this change. It is
definatly a no beer job as, personally I would not
want the alcohol to impair my consentration. The
swap is time consuming if you have not worked on
rear ends before, ( no, I mean differentials) and
does require a few specialized tools. It is not
impossible for the backyard mechanic to do though.
AMEND1- I have heard good things about Auburn,
although nobody I no has done this application. the
job description for OHC_BABY above would apply
here too. I have done Diffs before and while slow
going at home, not impossibly or really very
difficult. The important things are to make sure
your mesh patterns are right and setting backlash
which may take several assembly/disassembly cycles

slickwilliedj

i have a 01 2wd i had the wheel flairs and splash guards installed by dealer prior to delivery. they look great!.have you noticed your rear axle is offset more to the right then left? is so you'll really need the fender flairs and splash guards to keep the dirt off the paint.....

ferous

Are you sure your 3.55 isn't a LSD. When I ordered my truck, the only 3.55 I could get was LSD by default. If you look under the back of the truck, there is a white 1" wide band that goes around the axel by the drivers side leaf spring and it will tell you what you have. Mine says "3.55 LSD".

ferous

Thanks for the input on install the flaps for the rear wheels. I picked up two pair a couple of weeks ago and only had time to install the front pair. The front pair was easy, but I haven't had time to do the back yet. I'm going to try the "Jack the back of the truck up" trick.

gjble

When I got home from picking up my new truck , mu wife told me my stop lights were on all the way home, which explains why the cruise control didn't work The switch had fell out of its mount by the brake pedal. When I replaced it, a bolt going thru the steering column was rubbing on the wires on the switch. I had to loosen the switch mount and turn it to gain enough clearance so the steering column bolt would clear. That's the only problem I have had and I am very pleased.
In Atlanta

brianpha

Hey that was good!
You had me for a second!! LOL

ford_bii

2 problems as far as I know with my new Quad.

First, the window molding on the left rear door isn't seated properly. Should be simple to fix.

Second, the 4.7 is too damn strong! I have to drive in fairly heavy traffic to and from work (10 miles each way) and I have to feather the gas the whole way. I just want to romp on the accelerator and feel the power!

Love this truck so far.

Bookitty - I ordered an A.R.E. and used the internet coupon, thanks.

amend1

Ferous-I'll check that, but I ordered this truck from the ground up. The window sticker did not indicate LSD, but it's worth looking into. Thanks a heap

iflyxj

Just wanted to add that I picked up my new 01 QC on monday, and so far it has been great. Black, 4.7L, 5-speed, Sport Plus with most of the bells and whistles.

I haven't discovered any major flaws yet, and I wanted to thank everyone who has posted here about their experiences. It certainly helps to have an idea of what to look for and what to expect.

grokg

I have a 2000 Dakota QC 4X4 Sport 4.7 that unfortunately I will be selling. I have accepted an international transfer with my company. The truck is black and loaded. I special ordered this truck earlier this year. I received it in May and it has only 8,000 miles on it. This truck has been babied since day one. I hate to see this truck go, but I have no idea how long I will be abroad. I can't enjoy it so someone else should.

The Kelly Blue Book (Retail) value for the truck is $25,195. Trade in is approximately $21,000. I am asking $24,000.

The truck is in Knoxville, Tennessee. If you, or anyone you know is interested in this truck please send me an email.

grokg@mindspring.com
grokg@btinternet.com

Bummed,
grokg

bobs5

Has anyone had their truck undercoated?
Is it necessary on modern trucks?
If you did, was it dealer installed or a do-it-yourself project.
Thanks

bobs5

A few more questions.

When should the first oil and oil filter be changed?
The manual seems to indicate 7500 miles.
I have a 24 month easy care maintenance plan which is for 6 month, 6k miles,which covers oil & filter change. Having this maintenance plan, I assume the first change will be at the 6 month mark.

Washing and waxing:
How long should one wait before attempting this?

Does the paint need to cure for awhile?

Which product do you use for washing?

Which wax do you use?
I am looking for a one application product for waxing.

200 miles now and loving life!

bobs5

The BOB - Where does one get a copy of the service manual? Is this a dealer only book or is there a complete service manual like the Helm manuals?

tuvtest

Have you thought about sending your truck to where you are going? I know a couple people who shipped their cars overseas with a minimum of difficulty.

bookitty

Kalani, congratulations and the best of luck with your new truck. You will really like owning and driving this vehicle. I continue to get looks of both praise and envy (well, not me, but my truck).
Please enter your name and info within the "Meet Your Members" topic if you have not already done so. Again, happy motoring.

Bookitty

tuvtest

Undercoating- I would not do it. Todays vehicles have several rust treatments on the sheetmetal prior to pasinting at the factory and the holes often drilled to apply the undercoating disrupt the factory protection. Although I haven't read the new factory warrenty info, in the past, the application of aftermarket undercoating ( especially with holes drilled) would void the factory rust-through warrenty, and the undercoating company is long gone so you couldn't get their warrenty either. Most rust-through happens from the outside in where the paint/primer was disrupted, rather than the inside out which is what the undercoating supposadly protects.
BOB- it is a comprehensive service manual used by the technicians to repair your truck. It is written by the factory and can be ordered by anyone. I don't remember the Phone #, but your sevice/parts dept. should have it. for 2001 ist is actully a BTB (bug teal book) and runs $105. It is worth every penny.
OIL- Every person on this board has their own opinion on this one, here's mine. I change the oil at 500mi,1000mi,2000mi and every 2k after that. New motors have a surprising amount of contaminants in them ranging from assembly lubes, breaking oils, machining oils,moisture,and sometimes enven some sand left from the casting process if the block wasn't compleatly cleaned. I feel that frequent oil changes are the cheapest insurance against engine failure. I use 5w-30 dino oil as that is what this engine was designed around. Many others prefer synthetic and it has it's advantages, but should NOT be used for the first..maybe 3k mi..as it prevents rings and bearings from seating properly. Unless you fit into the extended service schedule perfectlyu, I would not go more than 3mos/3k mi std.
WAX- Youshould wait a couple months before waxing to allow the paint to fully cure ( easy to say, though to do) Any major brand of high Carnuba content wax is the best for the finish. I prefer Meguire's pro line (tan bottles) or Zymiol.
OOPS! sorry for the long posting, once I start going....

bobs5

Thanks for the responses.

My last car had undercoating, and seemed to rust beneath the coating. Actually hid any indication of rust until it was really bad.

I will call the service manager and see what response is given about the first oil change.
As this is my first brand new vehicle, I don't want to do anything which will void the warranty.

Which brand of oil do you use?
Did you stay with the factory oil filter or use an aftermarket one?

steve234

Look in the maintenance section. We are discussing oil and filters there.

phering

I got my QC in March, have just under 13K miles with the 4.7L auto tranny, & I really enjoy my truck. It's Patriot Blue with the heavy duty service group & tow package.

After about 12K miles, my transmission started burping fluid out of the fill tube onto the motor. This made my travels very smokey & smelly. After the second trip to the service dept, I fianlly convinced them it may be related to the recall on the transmission vent hose. Yes, I'm one of the lucky 20,333 drivers. The dealership replaced the faulty hose.

What bothers me is a comment one of the service men said over the phone. He said replacing the hose may not fix the problem. RED FLAG TIME!!! I picked the truck up tonight only after many repeated assurances that the problem was 100% fixed because the kinked vent hose was now replaced. The service man I spoke with over the phone also said it was fixed.

Posting #984 refers to a similar problem I have/had. Are there other reasons my trans fluid would be burping out of the fill tube?

Since flammable transmission fluid and hot manifolds don't necessarily go well together, I am still very concerned.

Has anyone else had similar problems?

Sorry for the long post length.
Thanks, Paul

bpeebles

(bobs5) It appears that some people are getting undercoating confused with rustproofing.

Undercoating is usually a thick, rubbery-or-greasy coating that deadens sound. Rust-preventions is secondary. Years ago, this was used to reduce the road-noise that is heard from inside the vehicle.
Rustproofing is associcated with drilling holes and inserting a 'wand' to apply waxy or oily gunk inside the doors, fenders and other enclosed areas.

Modern vehicles have much, MUCH better corrosion protection from the factory. Instead of a 3-year lifespan in Vermont, modern vehicles go almost 8 winters before showing signs of rust-holes.

I know some people that get an oil-undercoating in the fall then drive on dirt roads to produce a nice-greasy coating. It looks aweful and your pants get dirty as you get in/out of the vehicle... but it seems to provide some protection from the road-salt that is used here in VT.

jones27

Thank God bpeeples finally stopped the misinformation about undercoating (not rustproofing!). I've had every vehicle I've ever owned undercoated to help deaden road noise. It really has no other benefit. Some dealers also call this application of a thick tar on the bottom of the chassis a "soundshield." They spray it on the bottom, in the wheel wells, but stay away from the oil pan, exhaust system, and axle. It runs apprx. $150-170.

I would never, ever suggest rustproofing......the manufacturer warrants the paint. These packages that the dealer tries to tack on at the end of the deal are basically worthless....except for the undercoating. It is almost pure profit for a dealer and generally they charge $500 for the "sealant package" of which all items are unecessary.

Undercoating is a personal preference and does no damage to the bottom of your vehicle. If anything, it protects it a little bit more from rocks, gravel, etc.

tuvtest

Gentlemen, you are correct. I humbly defer to your proper definitions. I do tend to use the terms rustproofing and undercoating interchangably which obviously is not appropriate.They are destinctivly different products. I do however stand by my opinion of the downsides of application. In my area at least (northern IL-Chicago) the application of undercoating (and rustproofing) included the drilling of holes to access inner fenders and doors w/o disassembly of the car in addition to doing the wheelwells and underside. I watched this done many times at the dealership that I worked at, and know the company that did ours handled the majority of the dealerships in the area as well. I thank you again for the clarification,and plan to pay more attention to how I phrase things. Please put away the wet noodle :-)

bobs5

Thanks for the clarification between the two terms.
In my mind I was thinking rustproofing.
Who says an old dog can't learn new tricks.

bobs5

Truck got it's first feeding yesterday.
16 mpg for around town driving.

bobs5

Thats a 2wd, correct?

victx

I went taller tires and wanted my speedo and overhead computer to be as correct as possible. I went to three dealers and they all had different answers on how this update is done and they quoted me prices from $58 to $69, for what I assume is about a 5 minute job. (Before I upgraded tires, the shop manager showed me the option when he was trying to figure out how to disable the horn honk on the keyless entry, this turned out to be a type on the user manual) Anyway, posts 900 to 908 say it should cost about $35 for the dealer to do, or I can get a computer to do it myself for $100. Anyone know where I can get this computer? Thanks and sorry for the long post.

akula2

I too recently had a transmission leak. Took it to the dealer several times. The first time both the dealer and myself thought it was the pan gasket. They also told me at that time that the vent tube need to be repositioned. The second time they told me some transmission plugs needed to be tightened. I did not know transmissions had plugs. The third time they said the leak was actually coming through the metal of the transmission housing. They suspected a bad casting of the housing created a portion of the housing that was porous and caused the leak. They replaced the tranny under warranty. Overall a good experience with the service department at my dealership despite the back and forth trips.

nschmid

ferous - do you have any modifications on your truck (exhast, air intake, etc) or is the mileage you are reporting in a stock dakota?

Thanks

bobsyvee

There should be an order form in the back of your owner's manual for ordering the Service Manual.

Jim H

indychapell

I recently had my Dakota rustproofed. I go to a company called Rust-check. Thier product is a very thin type product. I've had good experience with this product. Around here the city seems to over due the salt, and I personally feel more com-fortable knowing that I've added that extra protection. It's something that each owner has to decide on. Also next Sat. Dec. 16 The program Trucks on TNN is having a segment on the Quad. Just thought you would like to know.

spike50

Just took the card out of my portfolio that had the 1-800 number that you could call to order BOB. I have a '00 and that was approx. $100 with shipping.

You do have to spend time with it to get how its laid out. 90% of what you want to know is in there but there's no substitute for this owner's group to bounce ideas / questions off of to benefit from their experiences.

brianpha

Well I took delivery of my 2001 Quad Cab SLT. Its Garnet Red with Leather, 4.7 4x4, pretty much loaded. The only thing I did not get was the sliding window. I wanted it but this one had the solid tinted back window. Other than that, it's a beautiful vehicle!! I am extremely pleased...someone else mentioned the wheel not locking, I couldn't get mine to lock either...kinda odd..anyway, love it and will keep you posted!!!

Brian

stnick

To any of you owners that are interested, Someone on this board awhile back responded about a place on the web where you could purchase a DC extended warranty. The site is www.chryslerwarranty.com. It is a chrysler dealership in DesMoines Iowa. A couple of days ago, I ordered one for my Quad from them at a substantial savings over all the local dealers and DC as well. Example, 72 month, 60,000 miles with 50.00 deductible on 4x4 runs 685.00. Much better price and deductible than DC,s offer I got in the mail. Note, if you order, when you get to the model of vehicle part of the order form, there is no Dodge choice, only Chryslers. Phone call to dealer said to type into the "special instructions" box, your make and model. They will e-mail you back a conformation. Will be updating their site in the future. Just another example of the good info shared here that can save us all time and money. Stnick

brianpha

Ok, maybe this is a dumb question, but, when you open the center console, on top there are two places for things. One is a pen holder, but the other is a small square hole. What the heck is this used for? Dealer said "Maybe post it notes?"
Anybody have a clue? Thanks!!!

Brian

bcarter3

brianpha, Try the Pocket Pack Kleenix

bookitty

Brian, congratulations and good luck. You got your Xmas present a little early, but that's good. Enjoy your truck, and drive safely.

Bookitty

2nddak

Getting our Christmas tree made my decision on drop in vs sprayed in bedliner. After sliding the tree into the bed of my new quad I got my first dent in the bed. The tree lightly thumped the bed wall against the cab and made a nice little dent. I doubt a sprayed in liner would have prevented it. It seems like the metal in the bed walls isn't that substantial. I decided that a drop in liner is the way to go since I will be hauling a lot of varied items and construction debris. If it is going to get used like a truck, the drop in liner makes sense to me.