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Comments
StoneCold
Consumer Reports, plus a few other magazines that review automobiles, will always point out when they feel air blowing on their feet. It is looked upon as a negative characteristic. What they feel is better is a climate control that heats evenly at the feet rather than blow on the feet.
I wonder, reading your posts, if maybe this is what Dodge was trying to accomplish. You wouldn't feel any blowing, however, you would get heat down there just the same.
Seats:
I am 5' 8" (short, by comparision) and I know what you guys mean about looking down through the windsheild. My Rodeo has a ton of glass around me and therefore, a lot more room to see.
Interesting note, if you read any of my previous posts, you know that I am very unhappy with the "bucket" seats that I paid an extra $200 for. No support on the sides or in the butt. Plus, there is no headrest to speak of ( I love to rest my head back while driving long distances).
I think I solved the problem though. The Durango, especially '98 and newer, has awesome seats. I found a pair of leather seats from one and will be receiving them any day. I am going to put them in my Dakota (QC) and that should make a lot of difference.
I'll keep you posted (no pun intended).
Can you give me the name of the deler you purchased your bedrug through?
I would like to get one!
I'll be interested to hear the news when you get the durango seats installed. I've been following your posts but never gave any serious thought to such a major modification - since I have the bench seat thing. I guess it's technically still called a "bench" even though it's three peices!? Butt will the durango seats sit lower in the QC (doubt it)??
No, you are probably right, they will not sit lower than the current seats.
However, my intention here is to attain comfort. Nothing I hate more than going around a corner and having to shift my weight in order to stay in the middle of the seat.
The biggest thing that I noticed in the Durango is that the seats are a little higher in the back (headrest) and that they are a lot more supportive.
I checked with the dealer and they said that the seats should fit right in.
We'll see.
I'll keep you unpdated with pictures and everything when they come in.
-Tod
Rich
DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS NOISE???
Went to the dealer and the "technician" said it is "normal" "torque steer". I was in a rush when I picked up my QC, so I didn't get a chance to quiz the technician about this.
Afterwards, I searched the web and found that my hunch is correct - "torque steer" is a term generally applied to front-wheel drive vehicles. (As you know, all Dakotas are either rear-wheel drive or four wheel drive - not a front-wheel drive in the bunch).
I e-mailed DM and they agreed that torque steer is not a correct diagnosis for an unusual sound coming from the FRONT of a Dakota. DM suggested that I go to ANOTHER dealer for a 2nd opinion!!!
I believe my best bet is to speak to the service manager and/or general manager at the dealer that sold me the QC. If that doesn't get the problem resolved, I'll ask them to set up a meeting with the Dodge Rep..
Don't get me wrong. I love my new QC. Granted, the "problem" might turn out to be "normal" for this vehicle. BUT, I need a straight answer.
The Dodge technician was just giving me the "run-around" with his "torque steer" answer. But, his answer only served to heighten my concerns about the noise. Is this a problem that could mushroom into a crisis at highway speeds???
GATOR72
Expect to take delivery in a day or two. Now comes the need to decide what accessories should be added. To protect the bed the choice will probably be between a Penda under the rail bed liner or the Bedrug, which the dealer describes as indestructable. Either one will probably be covered by a Sport Masters heavy duty vinyl Tonneau cover. Also under consideration are some form of running board or nerf bar, bug deflectors, window vent shades, mud flaps, and side molding or a small trim design to brighten up the package. Comments from anyone on the forum who has experience with any of these items will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Ken
Go ahaid and call around to some xmission / drivetrain shops to get a feel for the cost.
Here are some links to more information. The Trac Lock unit is original equipment for Dodge vehicles while the auburn gear unit is another way to go.
Here is aDifferential Differences Link.
Then I would look at the apperance, inside and out also under the hood.
Next, I would give it a good long test drive. I test drove mine for about
40 or 50 miles and even took it home before I signed anything. If all things past,
I would sign the papers and take it home.
I finally got my truck back today (2001 QC)
Where was it, you ask?
I took delivery about 2 weeks ago. My salesman took me out to show me the back door on the right side. It had a huge paint defect that looked like a golf ball hit it at 90mph while the paint was still drying.
They fixed that. Now the inside of the truck smells like paint.
Got it home today and found other blotches that could only be seen in sunlight (first sunny day we've had since I took delivery). They looked like,...I don't know,.. like someone baked hairspray on there or something. Anyway, it was all over the left side about 1/3 up the doors.
Instead of taking the truck back and raising hell, I found a great scratch remover ( I used to paint motorcycle helmets) and with a lot of rubbing and buffing, got the blotches out. Then I took some nice car wax and buffed it to a nice shine.
Looks perfect.
My point here is that those of you taking delivery or waiting to take delivery, need to look very hard at the paint job(s) on your truck. I have read a ton of posts here that found the same sort of thing on their trucks when they took delivery.
I don't know what they are doing up there at the Dodge plant, but they need to figure out how to paint automobiles.
Now, if my damn seats would get here!
There are a few items on this list which are specific to Dodge Ram problems, but most of the list is pretty generic and works just fine for the Dodge Dakota too. Happy Inspecting!
Here's the link: http://dodgeram.org/buying_info/Inspect.htm
If torque steer is the result of unequal length drive shafts for the front wheels then it stands to reason that a 4WD Dak should experience that effect since its IFS differential is off center and the shafts probably aren't of equal length. I'm not looking under the truck today to confirm this - icy rain.
I too thought a light went there but believe it or not its a tissue holder. Ya know, those small Kleenex packs....if you have your brochure, look through it and indeed it says, "even a place to hold tissues".....if u feel silly, its ok I did too : )
Brian
In an effort to answer your question... Torque Steer is simply one of the front tires having more Torque applied to it than the other front tire. It should be easy to visualize that the tire that is pulling harder will tend to "steer" the front wheels in the opposate direciton of that tire. (If the left-front tire is pulling harder... then the entire steering assembly will tend to be pulled to the RIGHT)
To make it easier, visualize... the front-right tire on ICE while the front-left is on solid pavement. Obviously the tire on ICE has LESS traction than the tire on pavement....thus the tire with traction (most torque) will pull the steering assembly to the RIGHT.
An open differential tends to send more torque to ONE wheel. If you have ever driven a MANUAL RACK AND PINION vehicle, you would be very aware of torque-steer. All FWD vehicles have it to some degree but POWER STEERING tends to isolate the driver from its effects.
Torque Steer on a 4X4 dakota would be hard to feel because the drivetrain wind-up forces are MUCH more apparent. This is EXACTLY why one is not supposed to drive a 4X4 on pavement.(while engauged)
3.55=9500 Gross Combination Weight Rating
3.92=10,500 Gross Combination Weight Rating
This is for a 5 speed 2000 Quad cab. The auto reduces the 3.55 to 9,200#. 3.92 remains the same
This is not about RPM and horsepower, it is about drive torque. The 3.92 keeps the torque level higher. The difference remains proportionate throughout the line for different engines, cabs as well as transmissions.
Bookitty
Well, my first real problem popped up this morning.
The check engine light came on after a miss in the engine.
There is a major rotten egg smell now, the engine does not idle well, and the engine does not rev over 3000 rpm.
I did the code retrieval by way of the ignition switch and got error code P0320.
The truck has less than 1800 miles on it.
Anyone know what happened?
Any help would be appreciated.
I will post results.
I have tried all around and cannot find a good price on this. I would be willing to pay you for yor effort if you would want to pick one up for me and mail it to Pennsylvania. Van and truck world
does not ship to the US. if you are interested please contact me @ earl1z19@nauticom.net
http://www.obdii.com/codes.html
Your code is defined as:
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
I have heard of a problem with the crankshaft positioning sensor going bad.
I hope it is just a simple sensor that can be replaced while I wait. I will have them do the oil and filter change while it's there.
Sure hope this is not an omen to further problems.
Sorry I can't help you!
http://www.tntserve.com/key_and_latch_pace_edwards.htm
http://www.pickupstuff.com/html/tailgate.htm
http://www.truckstuff4less.com/tailgate.htm
http://ultimatetruck.com/products/popnlock.asp?categid=48
Traumagas@aol.com
At the front of it there is a clip. What the heck is this for?? Ive been
trying to figure out what I can use it for but cant come up with anything.
TD
TD
Back in late December when I bought my 2000 QC 5.9L 4x4, I received a quote from a dealer in Dallas for $50 over invoice for a 2001 4.7L 4x4. This was from a dealer from the Sam's Club auto buying network. I also recall talking to a dealer in AZ that I found on the internet that routinely sells their Dakota's for something like $100 over invoice.
I ended up buying my '00 from a dealer in Dallas (Preston Dodge) for dealer invoice. Ron Jackson, the salesman/floor manager, said "what price did I have in mind." I said "dealer invoice." He said "ok." He showed me the invoice price (which matched the Edmunds price) and that was it. Needless to say, it was a great purchasing experience for me, especially b/c Ron let me test drive the QC as many times as I needed to get comfortable with the QC, never pressured me, and gave me straight forward advice re:which Mopar accessories to buy and which to stay away from and buy elsewhere for a lot less $$. My lights, catback system, and some misc. accessories were installed by 3rd party installers he recommended.
DC's fortunes have obviously worsen since Dec, so I would speculate you could buy a 4.7 for invoice or possibly less. In fact, I recall reading some posts on this or the other Townhall Quadcab board where people had gotten their '01 4.7's for $200 under invoice, I believe. Check out the previous posts for the last month or so.
Good luck.
Anyone knowing something regarding this, I would sure appresate an anwser. Thanks!!
4x4,auto,4.7,3:55 rear,lsd,tire/handling pkg..Hopefully when the engine
breaks in I can get a little better..You guys were right about the 4.7
It is one smooth machine
TD
On a side note: my left Quad Cab badge fell off the C-pillar! Gotta call the service dept and get a new one.
My paint appears to be ok. I haven't waxed yet, so I haven't been over every single inch of the truck, but there is one sight imperfection above the front passenger door.
For those of you who have A.R.E tonneaus for this truck - does your cover seal completely on the sides and back? I have an area right around the rear corners of the truck that is not weather sealed (the gasket does not make contact). Also, the gasket doesn't completely contact the aluminum rails, so some air is able to bleed through. I was wonder if they're all like this. I don't think much rain gets in, but there's definately some road dust inside because of it.
Bookitty