I know it sounds stupid but I'm still getting shocked and I don't like it. I know its static electricity but there has to be a solution. What did the dealer say your getting shocked,Homerun? I put a rubber strap hanging sown from the frame but it hasn't helped. Imagine getting out of you truck end when you touch the door to close it you get shocked. It's a real bummer. HELP!! Surely Booker must know something.
(jsten) If you are getting static shocks, you must be living somwhere that has VERY low humidity during the summer. I only get the shocks during the winter here in Vermont.
Your problem is known as ESD (ElectroStaticDischarge)
BTW... Using RUBBER straps is not the answer. Whatever you choose to use must be electriclly CONDUCTIVE. (to discharge the buildup to the ground.) One must use rubber impregnated with carbon that makes it conductive.
However, if it is YOU that is getting charged, the straps to the frame may not help much. I guess you could use anti-static seatcovers to recuce the ESD. Also, there are fabric sprays that will eliminate static buildup. (again, by making the fabric slightly conductive.)
Only a few Megaohms is needed to bleed off charge and reduce the ESD.
Why do I seem so familear with ESD? I have worked with microchips for over 20 years. Even the SLIGHTEST (not felt by humans) ESD will kill an electronic device.
As bpeeples knows, stick with cotton shorts! Get rid of those nylon boxers. Actually, nylon creates static a whole lot! Electronic Companys have nylon listed as 1 of the higher fabrics which create static and should not be worn when handling electronic components. Anyway, I get shocked also after I step on the ground then go to close the drivers door. I try to touch the side of the door (metal parts) before stepping on the ground, awkward but did help. If you can see the static spark it is >2000 volts. Just pulling on scotch tape from a roll can create up to 7000 volts. I'd like to see a "real" solution to stop the shocks..Ger
I have been reading the posts over at dodgedakotas.com (excellent site) and came across a post regarding a concern little or no water was leaking from under the truck after running the a/c. So I took notice for a week and found mine was leaking little or no water after a 30 min drive with a/c on. came back from a 3hr trip to west coast of fla and after parking truck still no water. I decide to look under passenger carpet and to my surprise there was a puddle of water. thank goodness dodge is not using that crap pieces of materal backing anymore. instead its foam backing glued to back of carpet.I dried it out today in 93degree fla sunshine and its fine and doesnot smell. guess i caught it in time truck goes into dealer tomorrow for this problem and a new fuel tank to correct the mil light.( dealer says there are vents on top of tank that are defective and one has popped out slightly not allowing the emission control to build pressure in the tank briefing at start up thus causing the light....... ANY ONE ELSE HAVE THIS A/C PROBLEM OR KNOW OF ANY TSBS FOR IT?
The cabin was on Echo lake, about 100 miles or so, north of Millinocket, Maine. Rained about half the time though. Fishing stunk (sunny's and yellow perch). Beer flowed nicely. Good friends. Good food.
Saw loons, bald eagles, hawks, red squirrels, chipmunks, owl, red foxes, big buck, plenty of bear and moose droppings. Saw no moose or bear though. Heard coyotes in the distance. The loons were always vocal at night....they sound cool!
Truck got slightly over 20 mpg on the highway.
Did scrape bottom twice, exploring different lakes and campgrounds, no damage that I saw. Glad for skid plates.
bobs5 - If you would have continued up Rt 95 and then on to Rt 1, you would have eventually ended up in Van Buren, Maine. I started elementary school there (1956) while my father was stationed at Loring AFB near Limestone. Mud, potatoes, and french-speaking Acadians (sp?). Visited again in 1976 and it looked a whole lot smaller.
I live in South Florida. No I don't wear nylon pants or underwear. I've tried holding on the side or top of the door when I get out and I still get shocked sometimes. I don't want to use the key because it might mess up the memory on the remote entry and it will eventually scratch up the paint. I use to see a strap at the parts store a long time ago but haven't seen one in ages. The parts man a discount auto said to use a bungie strap which I thought worked for a while but not lately. I have the fabric interior which may generate more static than leather. I'll call my dealer and see if he can come up with something.
I have only had my new Dakota for a few days now, but did get a trip from Fort Collins, CO to Denver in over the weekend. I really am impressed. The 5 speed shifts very well. Great power. I will have no trouble driving in the left lane up in the mountains. Plenty of cabin room. Bought a red, plain Jane, 4X4 SLT with no comfort or convenience options for $21,400, including the $2,000 rebate. I did however get the 4.7L with the 3.92 axle ratio and limited slip differential. Do you think that was a decent deal? I used to be able to put 85 octane in the 5.9L of my full size Dodge. At this altitude, would I be able to get away with it on the 4.7L? I probably wouldn't try it unless gas prices went way up. To anyone thinking of buying, my first impressions are very favorable. The Quad Cab is really nice if you have a couple of small children like I do.
Has anyone heard of anything on those turbo units that they have been advertising on tv? They are probable BS but thought I'd ask if anyone has tried it. They claim more HP and better milage. I was going to get one of those air aide units but someone told me that it really didn't do much on mpg and they didn't notice much on horespower. Any feed back on these items?
If it sounds too good it is probably not true. If this stuff really worked the car makers would be using it to meet their fleet mileage requirements. Keeping your tires inflated to the correct pressure will probably do more for you than a whole box full of the garbage they sell in the back of car magazines. Rick
My 01 Q/C 4.7 2WD auto has been in shop about 4 times for this damn MIL light the first time they thought it was a loose gas cap NOT. second time couldnot find anything just reset computer and adv if it comes on again they will do a smoke test. well it came back on 3rd attempt a smoke test was performed and they supposely discovered that the fuel tank not holding pressure during evap test sequence was the cause due to one of the vents on top of the tank had popped out slightly. 4TH ATTEMPT, yesterday, fuel tank comes in they replace tank and less then 24hrs the freakin MIL light is on AGAIN!!!... this is so frustrating the same code has come on the trucks computer p0161 however tech says these codes are not reliable and their equipment show more information. this code if i recall has something to do with oxygen sensor bank 1 or 2/ rationalization code.. i have no clue what means? ANY ONE ELSE EXPERENCE A SIMILAR PROBLEM OR HAVE IDEAS ABOUT WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS PROBLEM???
My CEL came on after the dealer replaced my fuel pump/check valve assembly, they had forgotten to replace one of the little vacuum lines under the hood somewhere. The code registered was a major Evap system leak -- same as you get when you don't tighten the gas cap. Have a look under the hood for anything disconnected and plug it back in.
Bobs5- Was also in Maine over the weekend for a family baptism. We travelled to Scarborough (? on spelling) as my sisters husband is from that area. Stopped at "The Crab House" for some good old Maine seafood. Bill
From the DC Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual for 2001: P0161, 2/2 O2 Sensor Heater Failure. When monitored: With battery voltage greater than 9 volts, at cold start, ECT (coolant temp) less than 147F, battery temperature sensor equal to or lesss than 27F, and the engine at idle for at least 12 seconds. Set Condition: O2 sensor voltage greater than 3 volts for 30 to 90 seconds. Possible causes: O2 Heater element bad, O2 Sensor heater ground circuit open, O2 heater relay output circuit open, Intermittent condition, PCM (Powertrain Control Module) My guess would be a bad O2 sensor.
01 q/c 2wd auto 4.7l 16,000 miles, having problem, i'm finding a puddle of water underpassenger side carpet. dealer said drain was clogged so they unclogged and sent me home. had truck back no more then 48hrs and decide to ck under carpet just to make sure and to my surprise the carpet padding was wet again.... i can see the drain under the truck which is located behind the transmission dipstick. although the dealer claims he unclogged it i did myself again just to make sure. I rigged a smaller tube connected to the end of a wet vac with tape and inserted the tube into the drain hole and sucked it out. didnot get anything out of it but it couldnot hurt... i let the the truck run for approx 15 min and a big puddle formed under the truck like its supposed to i even crawled under neith while truck was running and a/c was on just to make sure. looks like water coming out of drain is almost being blown out. i did notice however that after shuting off the the truck much less water comes out of the drain. is this normal? although water is draining it appears that the passenger side floor board is still getting wet with the a/c off somehow the water is draining back. it appears it is coming from high up on the floor almost were floor and fire wall begin right behind the drain. there is a round thing perhaps the back of the drain where is protrudes out of the firewall... has any one else had this problem? what is the fix? what is causing this? truck goes back to dealer aug 7 for 2nd time for this........ sorry so long
thanks bcarter and tegwj truck goes back for 6th attempt aug 7 I will mention both suggestions to them. I did however bring to there attention the trouble code p0161 and the response i got was that the computers on the truck are through out very unreliable code and there testing equipment is better... well will see I hope they at least look into the possiblity of it might be a bad 02 sensor.... will update with more info as i get it!
A couple of months after I got my truck I found the passenger carpet soaked. I took the seats out and folded the carpet into the back so it would dry. I put the seats back in so I could drive it while tracing the source of the leak. I found that the water from the AC was being blown back along the short drain tube and back into the cab. I put some silicone sealant around the drain at the firewall and installed a drain tube made of flexible PVC (thank you HD). The carpet was still wet so I was driving the truck with it up and again found water puddled on the passenger floor. With my wife spraying water all over the windshield area I finally located a spot at the top of the windshield about six inches in from right corner that was not properly sealed. I purchased some windshield sealer and corrected the problem. Since then I have been leak free. Dick
Amend1 That restaurant sounds nice. I like lobster a lot. Have to look on the map to see where that town is for future reference. Wish I knew you were up there, you could have stopped by for a visit. That sure is a long drive to get to the cabin we were at. Over 12 hours.
I have also been to Moosehead lake and the Greenville area, they have a restaurant which has seafood. Can't remember the name of it though, but the food is excellent.
Hi new owner of quad cab 4.7 auto sure grip rear end/loaded, -with- 16,000mi have a harmonic vibration problem... just below 60 mph to just over 67. you feel through steering wheel and accelerator pedal a vibration that peaks at 65 under load, most notable uphill when coasting vibration goes away or if overdrive deactivated, tires have been rotated and balanced. Good year rep says I might have one bad tire. feels like its in the driveline. had a 01 quad cab same exact truck totaled in icy road rollover, never had this problem. anyone see any similiar symptoms/remedies dealer says this is normal I know its not
I havent posted in a long time, but I have kept up on reading the board here for awhile.
Well, we (family of four two kids 2 yrs and 6 months) are getting rid of the Quad. It has been a wonderfull truck and family hauler. Its just that the hauler part is no longer used and we are getting a family mover in its place. Other than the brake rotors the truck has been trouble free for 38000 miles.
Good luck to all, it was a great ride (QUAD), we will miss it.
My one star dealer always tells me the same lie. "Your problem is rare, we never seen anything like this before". Rotors, rotors and more brake problems all very rare. Ditto leaks, clunking and everything else that has been reported by owners at the Town Hall. Rare events? No way!
Well I had a flood appear on the passenger carpet and I mean flood. It took three all day trips over a month to the stealer to resolve the passenger side leak and here is how they finally resolved it.
Front and rear seat were removed along with all the carpets. My Dak was stripped of it's interior. Every inch of glass front and rear was re sealed. New carpets installed and interior was thoroughly cleaned to rid the odor of mildew the permeated the cab. 20,000 miles down the road and not a drop of water have I seen.
I was wondering if the Dakota will get the newer 3.7 liter V6 in the 2003 model year (as a replacement for the old 3.9 liter) that is being used in the Ram regular cab. Some people are saying 2003 and others say 2004.
I dont think the 3.7 will be available this year. I just saw a 2003 extra cab with a 3.9L and was disappointed. I was hoping to see a new light weight frame and possible a new transmission but no dice. Looks like Dodge has decided to use up all 3.9 inventory on the dakota and will not make any major changes for 2003. I for one am very disappointed as I was hoping to see some improvements.
Just completed a 2 week vacation with my 02 QC (4.7/auto/3.92/4x4/no mods) covering just over 2000 miles. Overall the truck is a surprisingly comfortable long distance driving vehicle. This is the first vehicle that I've driven where my rear-end isn't painfully sore after driving 12 hours. I wasn't expecting the Dak's seats to be that comfortable. The mileage ran between 15.6-16.0 (MPG) driving on the highway at 70-75 MPH with the AC on. The best mileage (17.3 MPG)was seen on a 100 mile section of 2-lane road where the average speed was 55-60 MPH. The AC performed well on the humid 85-90 deg days. Once the cab was cool, the lowest fan setting was all that was needed to keep cool. I have done the AC line insulation mod. On the return trip I had a 2400 lb trailer in tow. The 4.7/auto/3.92 did a fine job through the hills of western and central NY. Maintaining 70 MPH up the steepest hills only required part throttle in 3rd gear. If I was willing to let the speed drop to 60-65 MPH, quite often the tranny would stay in 4th gear while going up most hills. The only time full throttle was required was for rapid acceleration. The trucks brakes seemed up to the task of bringing the combined 7500+ lb combined weight to a stop within a reasonable distance. My only complaint after this trip is that the driver's side rearview mirror vibrates at speeds greater than 70 MPH. The only problem encountered is that the passenger side power window switch stopped raising the window on our last day out. It can only be raised from the switch on the driver's side. Time to visit the dealer for the first failure in 12K+ miles.
I just got back from a 1000+ mile trip and my best tankful was 24.9 MPG. (overall was 18.503 MPG)
I attribute this MPG to the addition of REDLINE synthetic lube in xfer case, xmission and both axles just before the trip. It shifts much better too ;-)
all i can say is WHOO HOO for 24.9!!!! While I have the auto and 4X2 I see something like 19 for city/highway combo commuting driving.. sounds like a monitoring session is inorder to get a baseline. At 58,000 and TLC hardware,tire and fluid maintennance.. I am quite happy with performance...
bpeebles...I read what you wrote "I also have to say that the 24.9 MPG was with high octane fuel and my ""WIFE"" driving. (65MPH for hours and hours)"!!! HOW COULD YOU ??!! unless an absolute emergency...especially with the manual trans..Either she is properly trained (by you of course) or you had a few beverages/hangover..I could understand that.. My wife hasn't even sat in the drivers seat!!..anyway...all in fun..Great mileage..I just calculated my 3rd tank of gas mileage after the flowmaster install, and was 17.62 MPG. 3 tankfuls showing same increase in mpg! take care, Ger.
-I keep reading about an AC line modification to make it cooler in the cabin. What is it? How do you do it? What's the cost? -Does anyone have an answer to "ahasher"'s question about fuel octane level in the 4.7? -I drive a 2001 SLT extended cab, 4.7L, auto trns. Have had it for just over a year with no problems except the ash tray (pops open every time I close a door or hit a bump). Installed an Airaid intake and noticed a 2 MPG improvment in city driving (11 to 13 MPG). Altitude plays a big part, as I'm stationed in Colorado. -Thanks in advance for any replys/suggestions!
The main reason I chose to use Hi-octane fuel during my extended trip was to reduce engine-damaging pinging/knocking. The outside temps were over 90 with high humidity and the AC was on the whole time. We were travelling the rolling hills of SW Pa. for most of the week.
A side-benifet to using the higher-grade fuel is that it contains detergants and other cleaners to de-gum the injectors. (you get what you pay for)
The higher flash-point of the hi-octane fuel can contribute to better MPG under some conditions.
(dodgetrukn) My wife drives a manual tranny better than most folks I know. (She even drove a garbage-truck in a previous life)She is the only person I know that can drive her Honda cvic without revving the engine when starting off from a stop. (I stall it every time)
Even my daughter (age 20) drives a manual very well too. She tells me people have commented on how smooth she can shift. Her Prelude has over 207,000 miles on the original clutch. I TRAINED her on my ol Nissan PU with a manual and she took the driving test using a manual tranny too.
I visit West Newton PA every year for a week. (Family is originally from that area) I understand that the area in Que Creek (where the miners were rescued) may be owned by a cousin.
Just a tad NE of Pittsburgh on the map. How close is that to you Ben?
I checked on the map, looks close to New Stanton. I really wanted to see the AC wrap setup, how you did it, and see it up close. The vitara has lengthy tubes running from compressor, thru the grille finally back to the Evap on the pass. firewall. Based on other's AC mods to dakotas, I see no reason why I can't do that to my vehicle and improve AC performace. ALso wanted to grill you on rotors and pads. Also wanted to have you check the wiring harness on the vitara and offer an experienced opinion on the quality of it (remember the meltdown?)
It sounds as if you really missed me stopping by for a visit. I would have liked to 'show off' my Intake, powerslot rotors and Edelbrock shocks (They are REALLY needed on those bumpy PA roads)
Here in VT, roads are NOT made of concrete, the winters would heave them into huge peices, none of which would be on the same plane...think of a road paved with concrete boulders 8-()
Some of the AC piping should NOT be insulated. Insulating the "hot" pipes will only keep heat in the system.
The easiest way to determine which pipes to insulate is to just pop the hood after running the AC for awhile.
Carefully feel the pipes with your hand to determine which ones are the "cold" ones. These will be the pipes with flow coming FROM the firewall into the "in" side of the compressor.
part on the AC....low side cold, high side hot or warm. No issues there. What I wanted you to peek at was the lengthy run of the low side pipe and advise what the best way is to get to it. It runs thru the grill infront of the radiator thru a cover and finally to the compressor. Its held in front by two clips that more or less lift it off the metal area where it mounts too. Just needed an extra set of eyes. Also I forgot you did the powerslot rotors...I wanted to followup and take notes on that as well.
Hello everyone. Long time since I last posted but still hanging around. Recently surpassed 15,000 miles and had some questions for the experts out there. I have 2002 QC, 4.7L, Manual Trans., 2WD, Trailer Tow, LSD, 3.55, HDSG,T&H. No problems thus far. Have been averaging 18-19 mpg city driving. Even brakes doing fine (probably helps that I live in hill-less, mountain less Fla.). Have been changing the oil (Mobil 1 5W30) and filter myself, put a drop in K&N air filter in today, and have just ordered Redline 75W90 w/the added friction modifier for upcoming LSD service. No Towing Yet. Was looking for advice on any other recommended maintenance at this point? Have been to two dealers here is what they have recommended:
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner Add oil system conditioner Service throttle body assembly Fuel injector flush Air filter (done) Brake inspection Rear brake service
Other than a brake inspection which I have no problem with, is any of that other stuff really neccessary?
I have an article on maintenance that I printed out from About.com where the writer recomends replacing air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve and filter every 15,000 miles. Obviously I will not have to replace my K&N air filter every 15K but what about fuel filter and PCV valve and filter?
I realise this is a long post and a lot to ask but I L-O-V-E love this truck. I would like to keep it running well.
PS I notice Red Line offers a Manual Transmission Fluid. Was wondering if any of the manual owners out there have or ever intend to change out the man. trans. fluid?
Sunburn, and significant others! I too just completed a trip to upstate NY. Forest Green, 4.7, QC, auto, 3.55. Had 6 people inside, A/C on going up in 90+ heat, the back loaded with ammo, guns and luggage, pulling a trailer with a quad and 2 dirt bikes (for the nephews!)Didn't even flinch going up the hill into Indian Lake on the Northway. I must say, this thing is great. Perhaps we'll "bump" into each other up there. Bill
Bought a used (2000 4WD SLT Plus Quad-Cab 4.7 Auto-trans) last night with 20600 miles. Beautiful Truck!! ) I still have a year of the factory warranty; original owner bought truck on 27 SEP 2000 so it gets me to 27 SEP 2003. To be honest I have always owned Fords. Three actually a Ranger & 2 each F150s. I know Fords inside out. But like I said that Quad-Cab looked so dawgone good. I could not resist its allure right price and perfect for growing family and well. Now its in my driveway.
OK enough background. Here is my dilemma; I did not do all my homework reference reliability/integrity/quality issues. However; cost I researched and got a great deal. Last night when I got home I began to scrutinize this and other forms on-line, anyway; to say I was distressed is putting it mildly! I saw numerous posts that were really full of terrible stuff.
For example; major auto transmission problems/catastrophic failures, seals in drive train leaking into A/C creating stench in cab when A/C is used, tendency for truck to drift to the right even when proper alignment has been conducted (my truck is doing this and the dealer has agreed to fix it) Serious electrical problems/malfunctions with door locks etc. There were many others but these were major themes I discovered as I scanned the posts.
Tell me this truck model/brand is not a big sexy Lemon! Needing the truth and your help! Thanks Russ
Russ, when you read threads such as ours, sometimes all you see are problems, from small to catastrophic. However, it is somewhat like being a police officer in that no one calls to say that all is well. Many of us have owned and enjoyed our trucks, and that does not mean that the trucks were perfect. Anything that is produced by mankind is subject to mistakes and/or failures. If I were you, I would drive and enjoy my truck without thinking forward to having problems. Chances are that you won' encounter any worse failures than could be experienced with a Chevrolet, Ford, Toyota or any other brand. Have fun.
What did your dealer say they were going to do about your drift to the right? My 02 Quad seems to have the same drift to right. Always gets better when I rotate the tires, yet always seems to return. Mine is very slight but still do not feel it's right.
PS Is anyone gonna help me out on my question RE: 15,000 mile maintenance?
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner - Dealer Profit maker
Add oil system conditioner - Dealer Profit maker
Service throttle body assembly- Dealer Profit maker
Fuel injector flush- Dealer Profit maker
Air filter (done)
Brake inspection - Good idea
Rear brake service - Do you need brakes??? inspection should disclose brake condition.
Keep in mind the service department of dealerships is their cash cow. They make the money here that pays the bills and salaries. New cars and trucks are generally more reliable now than in the past. There is less traffic into the dealers service departments than in the past. Some smart guy/gal thought up these recommended items solely to generate cash flow. The owners manual describes what the manufacturer considers necessary to maintain your vehicle. In my opinion these items fit into the same category as paint sealer, undercoating and fabric protectors. If the owners manual does not require the maintenance you are wasting your hard earned dollars. Rick
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Comments
but I too am changing some fluids and bought RED LINE 75W-90 with friction modifiers already in the oil.
How many qts. will I need? I Bought 4 qts. Owners manual didn't state the capacity.
I have a 2000 quad, 4.7 limited slip 3.92 ratio.
Thanks in advance,
cowtownkid
Looks like I bought 1 to many quarts but I can take one back.
cowtownkid
This includes the NV3500, Xfer case and front/rear axles.
I wrote an eMail to REDLINE asking their reccomendations for each gearbox.
The MTL in the tranny does make a difference with the synchros.
I put a rubber strap hanging sown from the frame but it hasn't helped.
Imagine getting out of you truck end when you touch the door to close it you get shocked. It's a real bummer. HELP!! Surely Booker must know something.
Your problem is known as ESD (ElectroStaticDischarge)
BTW... Using RUBBER straps is not the answer. Whatever you choose to use must be electriclly CONDUCTIVE. (to discharge the buildup to the ground.) One must use rubber impregnated with carbon that makes it conductive.
However, if it is YOU that is getting charged, the straps to the frame may not help much. I guess you could use anti-static seatcovers to recuce the ESD. Also, there are fabric sprays that will eliminate static buildup. (again, by making the fabric slightly conductive.)
Only a few Megaohms is needed to bleed off charge and reduce the ESD.
Why do I seem so familear with ESD? I have worked with microchips for over 20 years. Even the SLIGHTEST (not felt by humans) ESD will kill an electronic device.
Anyway, I get shocked also after I step on the ground then go to close the drivers door.
I try to touch the side of the door (metal parts) before stepping on the ground, awkward but did help. If you can see the static spark it is >2000 volts. Just pulling on scotch tape from a roll can create up to 7000 volts. I'd like to see a "real" solution to stop the shocks..Ger
Jim H.
http://www.libbycamps.com/index.html
The cabin was on Echo lake, about 100 miles or so, north of Millinocket, Maine. Rained about half the time though. Fishing stunk (sunny's and yellow perch). Beer flowed nicely. Good friends. Good food.
Saw loons, bald eagles, hawks, red squirrels, chipmunks, owl, red foxes, big buck, plenty of bear and moose droppings. Saw no moose or bear though. Heard coyotes in the distance. The loons were always vocal at night....they sound cool!
Truck got slightly over 20 mpg on the highway.
Did scrape bottom twice, exploring different lakes and campgrounds, no damage that I saw. Glad for skid plates.
Bob
I used to be able to put 85 octane in the 5.9L of my full size Dodge. At this altitude, would I be able to get away with it on the 4.7L? I probably wouldn't try it unless gas prices went way up.
To anyone thinking of buying, my first impressions are very favorable. The Quad Cab is really nice if you have a couple of small children like I do.
twj
Bill
From the DC Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual for 2001: P0161, 2/2 O2 Sensor Heater Failure.
When monitored: With battery voltage greater than 9 volts, at cold start, ECT (coolant temp) less than 147F, battery temperature sensor equal to or lesss than 27F, and the engine at idle for at least 12 seconds.
Set Condition: O2 sensor voltage greater than 3 volts for 30 to 90 seconds.
Possible causes: O2 Heater element bad, O2 Sensor heater ground circuit open, O2 heater relay output circuit open, Intermittent condition, PCM (Powertrain Control Module)
My guess would be a bad O2 sensor.
Dick
Dick
That restaurant sounds nice. I like lobster a lot. Have to look on the map to see where that town is for future reference. Wish I knew you were up there, you could have stopped by for a visit. That sure is a long drive to get to the cabin we were at. Over 12 hours.
I have also been to Moosehead lake and the Greenville area, they have a restaurant which has seafood. Can't remember the name of it though, but the food is excellent.
just below 60 mph to just over 67. you feel through steering wheel and accelerator pedal a vibration that peaks at 65 under load, most notable uphill when coasting vibration goes away or if overdrive deactivated, tires have been rotated and balanced. Good year rep says I might have one bad tire. feels like its in the driveline. had a 01 quad cab same exact truck totaled in icy road rollover, never had this problem. anyone see any similiar symptoms/remedies
dealer says this is normal I know its not
Good luck,
Bob
Well, we (family of four two kids 2 yrs and 6 months) are getting rid of the Quad. It has been a wonderfull truck and family hauler. Its just that the hauler part is no longer used and we are getting a family mover in its place. Other than the brake rotors the truck has been trouble free for 38000 miles.
Good luck to all, it was a great ride (QUAD), we will miss it.
My one star dealer always tells me the same lie.
"Your problem is rare, we never seen anything like this before". Rotors, rotors and more brake problems all very rare. Ditto leaks, clunking and everything else that has been reported by owners at the Town Hall. Rare events? No way!
Well I had a flood appear on the passenger carpet and I mean flood. It took three all day trips over a month to the stealer to resolve the passenger side leak and here is how they finally resolved it.
Front and rear seat were removed along with all the carpets. My Dak was stripped of it's interior. Every inch of glass front and rear was re sealed. New carpets installed and interior was thoroughly cleaned to rid the odor of mildew the permeated the cab. 20,000 miles down the road and not a drop of water have I seen.
Nightmares return after reading all these posts.
(overall was 18.503 MPG)
I attribute this MPG to the addition of REDLINE synthetic lube in xfer case, xmission and both axles just before the trip. It shifts much better too ;-)
(2000, 4.7L, 4X4, 3.55, NV3500 tranny)
Both of these contribute to better MPG.
My wife hasn't even sat in the drivers seat!!..anyway...all in fun..Great mileage..I just calculated my 3rd tank of gas mileage after the flowmaster install, and was 17.62 MPG. 3 tankfuls showing
same increase in mpg! take care, Ger.
-Does anyone have an answer to "ahasher"'s question about fuel octane level in the 4.7?
-I drive a 2001 SLT extended cab, 4.7L, auto trns. Have had it for just over a year with no problems except the ash tray (pops open every time I close a door or hit a bump). Installed an Airaid intake and noticed a 2 MPG improvment in city driving (11 to 13 MPG). Altitude plays a big part, as I'm stationed in Colorado.
-Thanks in advance for any replys/suggestions!
A side-benifet to using the higher-grade fuel is that it contains detergants and other cleaners to de-gum the injectors. (you get what you pay for)
The higher flash-point of the hi-octane fuel can contribute to better MPG under some conditions.
My wife drives a manual tranny better than most folks I know. (She even drove a garbage-truck in a previous life)She is the only person I know that can drive her Honda cvic without revving the engine when starting off from a stop. (I stall it every time)
Even my daughter (age 20) drives a manual very well too. She tells me people have commented on how smooth she can shift. Her Prelude has over 207,000 miles on the original clutch. I TRAINED her on my ol Nissan PU with a manual and she took the driving test using a manual tranny too.
You travelled to SW PA and didn't look me up!
tsk tsk tsk.......
Ok, it was a vaca so I'll let you slide......this time!
Just a tad NE of Pittsburgh on the map. How close is that to you Ben?
I really wanted to see the AC wrap setup, how you did it, and see it up close.
The vitara has lengthy tubes running from compressor, thru the grille finally back to the Evap on the pass. firewall. Based on other's AC mods to dakotas, I see no reason why I can't do that to my vehicle and improve AC performace.
ALso wanted to grill you on rotors and pads.
Also wanted to have you check the wiring harness on the vitara and offer an experienced opinion on the quality of it (remember the meltdown?)
Here in VT, roads are NOT made of concrete, the winters would heave them into huge peices, none of which would be on the same plane...think of a road paved with concrete boulders 8-()
Some of the AC piping should NOT be insulated. Insulating the "hot" pipes will only keep heat in the system.
The easiest way to determine which pipes to insulate is to just pop the hood after running the AC for awhile.
Carefully feel the pipes with your hand to determine which ones are the "cold" ones. These will be the pipes with flow coming FROM the firewall into the "in" side of the compressor.
Also I forgot you did the powerslot rotors...I wanted to followup and take notes on that as well.
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner
Add oil system conditioner
Service throttle body assembly
Fuel injector flush
Air filter (done)
Brake inspection
Rear brake service
Other than a brake inspection which I have no problem with, is any of that other stuff really neccessary?
I have an article on maintenance that I printed out from About.com where the writer recomends replacing air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve and filter every 15,000 miles. Obviously I will not have to replace my K&N air filter every 15K but what about fuel filter and PCV valve and filter?
I realise this is a long post and a lot to ask but I L-O-V-E love this truck. I would like to keep it running well.
PS I notice Red Line offers a Manual Transmission Fluid. Was wondering if any of the manual owners out there have or ever intend to change out the man. trans. fluid?
I too just completed a trip to upstate NY. Forest Green, 4.7, QC, auto, 3.55. Had 6 people inside, A/C on going up in 90+ heat, the back loaded with ammo, guns and luggage, pulling a trailer with a quad and 2 dirt bikes (for the nephews!)Didn't even flinch going up the hill into Indian Lake on the Northway. I must say, this thing is great. Perhaps we'll "bump" into each other up there.
Bill
To be honest I have always owned Fords. Three actually a Ranger & 2 each F150s. I know Fords inside out. But like I said that Quad-Cab looked so dawgone good. I could not resist its allure right price and perfect for growing family and well. Now its in my driveway.
OK enough background. Here is my dilemma; I did not do all my homework reference reliability/integrity/quality issues. However; cost I researched and got a great deal. Last night when I got home I began to scrutinize this and other forms on-line, anyway; to say I was distressed is putting it mildly! I saw numerous posts that were really full of terrible stuff.
For example; major auto transmission problems/catastrophic failures, seals in drive train leaking into A/C creating stench in cab when A/C is used, tendency for truck to drift to the right even when proper alignment has been conducted (my truck is doing this and the dealer has agreed to fix it) Serious electrical problems/malfunctions with door locks etc. There were many others but these were major themes I discovered as I scanned the posts.
Tell me this truck model/brand is not a big sexy Lemon!
Needing the truth and your help! Thanks
Russ
Bookitty
PS Is anyone gonna help me out on my question RE: 15,000 mile maintenance?
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner - Dealer Profit maker
Add oil system conditioner - Dealer Profit maker
Service throttle body assembly- Dealer Profit maker
Fuel injector flush- Dealer Profit maker
Air filter (done)
Brake inspection - Good idea
Rear brake service - Do you need brakes??? inspection should disclose brake condition.
Keep in mind the service department of dealerships is their cash cow. They make the money here that pays the bills and salaries. New cars and trucks are generally more reliable now than in the past. There is less traffic into the dealers service departments than in the past. Some smart guy/gal thought up these recommended items solely to generate cash flow. The owners manual describes what the manufacturer considers necessary to maintain your vehicle. In my opinion these items fit into the same category as paint sealer, undercoating and fabric protectors. If the owners manual does not require the maintenance you are wasting your hard earned dollars. Rick