Dodge Dakota - Quad Cab

saabgirl

A mechanic friend said a common cause of warped rotors is the driver's habit of running from stoplight to stoplight, braking hard at the redlights and then waiting for the green with your foot clomped down on the brake pedal. His hypothesis is that it causes uneven heat dissipation and, therefore, warped rotors. My observation is that friends who drive like this are the ones who have complained about frequent brake/rotor repair. I've been avoiding the fast starts and sudden stops and have been idling in neutral w/out brakes when possible. Can't swear to a positive effect on rotors, but mpg improved. Hey, can't hurt.

dustyk

Well, it could explain hard spots on the rotor surface. With the pad resting stationary on one area of the rotor it could trap heat and/or keep it localized long enough to temper the metal.

As to your general observation, I agree.

Regards,
Dusty

bpeebles

This is not a new concept, a hypothesis nor is it a theory. Your mechanic friend knows what he is talking about.

 It is ALWAYS good to 'creep' (about 1 wheel revolution) a bit while at a stoplight after a hard stop. Otherwise, the hot pad can cause uneven heating of the rotor where the pads remain clamped. 'creeping' the vehicle distributes the heat around the rotor. Most trained drivers know this concept well.

On the other side of the coin, trained drivers do not use the brakes nearly as much as most other drivers. I very rarely need to use the brakes (except to stop) I use the 1-second rule for a following-distance and also look far up the road to anticipate slowdowns.... That is the reason that my rotors RUST instead of wear out. I dont use them enough to keep them clean.

Also, your practice of idling in neutral (foot off clutch) when stopped is a good one. This keeps the throwout bearing from wearing out.

...just keep in mind that putting vehicle into neutral while driving is against the law in many states. (This is a throwback to the 1950s)

tcsmpsi

Howdy!
Just thought I would throw a little into the forum after reading and getting a feel of it.
My first Dodge truck was a '49, purchased used off car lot for $87.50.
Have owned several since then, all sizes, etc.

Just traded in an '01 QC, blk, 6cyl, 2WD, manual transmission, 40,000 mi. Regular maintenance, two recalls (minor-seat belt bolt, wiring harness(manual) ), replaced spark plugs at 30k. Still wearing (very well) original tires. Had seen some hard work, lot of dust, mud and dirt roads. Oh yes, and one rear-ending ($3,895 repair bill).
Drove/rode as well as when I parked it at the dealer as when I picked it up.
Last time I had the tires rotated, my chassis guy (for over the last 20+ years) said the rotors looked new.

Now, have '05 QC, blk, 6cyl with an automatic trans (manuals haven't been delivered yet).
'Salesman' (as well as my significant other) was a bit surprised I would accept an auto. (Heck, fellow should try new things now and again. Besides, my wife will trade the Cruiser (yeah, it's black too) with me from time to time so I can keep my clutch leg limber.)

Been raining around here for the last 3 weeks, so I haven't laid underneath the '05 yet, but, I'm looking forward to it (part of getting acquainted).

One jaunt out to Tucson averaged around 24 mpg in the '01. Around town was more like 14.

Don't know what this '05 is going to do yet (still sucking up the dealer's gas).

tcsmpsi

mciad

Hello all,

 

I am new to this site, and posted this in the Problems and Solutions forum, but thought I'd solicit other Quad Cab owners, also. Here is the question:

 

Good day,

  

New to this forum, but I am hoping that someone can shed some light on Dakota history.

  

I have a 2001 Quadcab, with the 4.7 V8, with 36,000 miles. Just out of warranty in August, the vehicle has now started to overheat, for now reason. Day time temps have been in the 60's, at most. I had the 30,000 service completed at the dealer, with no problems noted.

  

Has anybody else had this issue? Is it something with the radiator, fan, hose lines, etc.?

  

Any info will be appreciated. I had to take it to an independent mechanic for service, as I do not entirely trust the local dealer. BUT, that does not mean I do not intend to at least attempt the dealer to pay for it.

  

Thanks in advance . . .

  

MCIAD

slowrider

Will the recent recall on replacing ball joints also include a free wheel alignment? If the balls joints are replaced (in my opinion) there has to be a new alignment done so tires wear properly.

 

Has anyone confirmed if the recall will be totally free for owners of Dakota (yr. 2000 to 2003) and that dealers will pick up the cost for a alignment?

 

Appreciate any feed back.

mtrialsm

Take it to the dealer asap or flush the cooling system youself. Install a new thermostate.

spike50

Many, if not all of us, have all of the active Dakota forums (Edmunds) bookmarked. So I guess you're just repeating yourself. "Problems / Solutions" is the right place to bring it up.

 

Ditto on "Get thy self to the Mechanic and Flush". Overheat can cause a major a transfer of $, from you to a mechanic, machine shop, rent a vehicle while yours is all torn apart, etc. Don't put it off.

badass_bob

Hi guys

 

I'm back in the group after a +/- 3-year hiatus.

 

Bpeeples--> Glad to say you are still on the board

 

anyway just thought i would pass this on in case anyone was interrested. My '00 Quad just turned 52,000 miles and it was time to replace the OEM Gdy Wrangler RT/S 31x10.5's. I probably could have got another 3-5k out of them but the winter months are here and i didnt want to be running on bald tires.

 

 I just put on 32x11.5x15 BFG AT/TA(KO)'s on my 2000 FullTime 4x4 Quad's stock 15x8 rims...Im sure someone out there has already done this. This tire is a great fit and only scrubs a corner of the front inner fender at full lock(nothing a dremel wont take care of.

 

Question----> I now need to let the truck's PCM in on the tire swap. i know the dealer can do this for me but i figured, since i was going to spend $30-$40 to have this done, i would spens $300-$400 and buy a PCM upgrade from JetChip/SuperChip/Hypertech since most of these allow you to do this (at least on the GM/ford models)...

 

Does anyone have any experience(good/bad) with these reprogramming modules from any manufacturer?

 

Thanks Guys

 

Chad(NorthCarolina)

spike50

Hey, badass, we need your help and experience in the Dakota - General Topic forum. Big discussion about AWD and it appears from what you just said, that you are an experience AWD Dakota driver.

kissfan1969

Hi everyone,tonight we picked up our (new to us)'02 Quad Cab with 15k on the odometer. The truck has a 3.9 V6 and seems to have a slight ticking sound when it is idling. Is this a normal Dodge noise? It really doesn't sound like a lifter (and it shouldn't be @ 15 thousand miles). This is my first Dodge truck and third Dodge overall. The first 2 were a '75 Dart Swinger (318) and a '78 wagon (360)

ron35

kissfan - I recall that there was a TB out on this for 00 and I believe 01 but not sure about 02. I believe it had something to do with the positioning of the sparkplug wires. You might want to do a search on the TBs for 02.

 

Ron

dustyk

My son's '91 Dakota with the 3.9 had the same noise. It sounded like a lifter to me the many times my son asked me to listen to it. The problem with his was that it varied quite a bit, sometimes ticking just after start-up, sometimes cold, or hot, or just after an oil change. Using various weight oils didn't seem to make a difference, either. I suspect it was just a lazy lifter. Oddly, at 270,000 miles it doesn't do it any more nor has it made that sound in years.

 

Regards,

Dusty

slickwilliedj

while performing an oil change I noticed a very small amount of coolent which leaked overnight onto the driveway. The coolent appears to be leaking very slowly from the right underside of the front end just above the fron stabalizer bar where the lower radiator house connects to what appears to be the water pump via a union which is bolted to the pump. the leak is coming from between these too. possible a gasket is bad or just needs tighted? I have kept on eye on it and actually appears to have virtually stoped but appears to be moist but not leaking. truck to scheduled for my mechanic on Tues will post update. until then any ideas or others with simialr problem?

 

btw 01 q/c sport 4.7l auto 4x2 40k

dustyk

My first suspect would be a loose or broken coolant hose clamp. I have heard of two other older Daks that had a clamp problem.

 

Good luck,

Dusty

slickwilliedj

The leak is coming from between the thermostat housing and the lower radiator house. There is a black cover which bolts onto the thermostat housing which the lower radiator house is connected. My mechanic tightined the bolts and pressure tested the coolent system and it appeared to stop leaking. However 24 hrs later, after driving home I took a peak underneth to discover it still is leaking ever so slighty. Since tighting the bolts didnot solve this issue looks like the gasket is bad and will have to be replaced. ): nothing is simple! will post update in about 2 weeks.

sunburn

While leaving work this afternoon, a co-worker rear-ended my 02 QC with his 03 Silverado. Only minor damage to the rear of my Dak, the bumper has a small dent in it, and the passenger side is pushed forward and up slightly. The bumper hit the back corner of the bed just enough to put a very small dent in it and crack the paint. The lower lip of the front corner of my fiberglass cap has a small dent in it where it hit the rear corner of the cab. Only superficial paint damage to the back corner of the cab. From 20 ft away you can't tell that anything is wrong.

The Silverado on the other hand, had it's front bumper pushed in and down 2-3 inches on the passenger side and had a very large dent in it. The headlight assembly on that side was pushed back and down as well. The bumper was pushed back far enough in the front wheel well that the tire only cleared by about 1/2" when fully turned. There might have been some deformation of the right front fender, but it was hard to tell.

I'm guessing about $500-$800 damage to my Dakota. Probably $1500-$2000 in damage to the Silverado. Hard to believe the Silverado had that much damage for an impact that occurred at about 5 MPH.

bpeebles

My Dak was also rear-ended last month. I was sitting at a stoplight when some Ford hit the rear of my Dak.

His front bumper was almost up to my tailpipe! His car was severly damaged with fluids coming out of it.

My Dak was inspected and found to have only minor damage. A plastic bumper cover had popped off. Nothing bent at all.

This says somthing for having a REAL FRAME under you. (instead of a unibody with no frame at all.)

shine

I currently own a Ram 2500 4x4. The gas is killing me. Realistically what can I expect from the Dakota. The sticker doesn't always represent what the real world is doing.

Karen_S

It's a relatively new topic in Dakota Owners...

Dodge Dakota Owners: Real World MPG

slickwilliedj

do too a personal disagreement with my long time mechanic I ended taking the truck back to the dealer. My original mechanic found the thermostat housing leaking coolent and recommened replaceing both the housing and installing a new thermostat since the parts are inexpensive.In addition to the thermostat/ housing leaking the dealer discovered that both metal heater hoses were leaking from their rubber gaskets fittings.$323.00 later leak is fixed. The hoses were only $38.00 a piece the thermostat $35.00 and the housing $15.00. all the rest was labor..@ 85.00 per hr. Better in a Dodge? umm dunno about that at least not this month!... still love my truck though

slickwilliedj

fyi discovered though this repair in case anyone is interesting in knowing that Dodge for some reason uses plastic themostat housings vs metal(gm) on the 4.7l.

dustyk

The use of a composition thermostat housing is not unusual. They were "plastic" on the 318 and 360 for many years. Small-block Chevies have been plastic since the early seventies.

Bests,
Dusty

jeffreyw1

My friend is thinking about purchasing a used 2002 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab pickup that has a 3.7L V6 engine in it and he was wanting to know what the fuel economy is like for this truck (in the city / on the highway). He also wants to know if there are any negatives about this truck. Thanks for all help!

eidlws

I have the same tranny problem with the OD slipping out of lock at 60-65 mph.
Got 108k miles. Also happens when I go over bumps in the road. The pedal is kept steady though.
Anyone know what this might be? Hopefully something simple and cheap.
01 Quad, 4.7L, 5-spd automatic Trans.

bpeebles

One suggestion comes to mind. DC (Daimler Chrysler) automatic xmissions are notorious for misbehaving when the incorrect fluid is put in them.

I would suggest you have the fluid changed and MAKE SURE that only ATF+4 is used. Do not beleive any ATF fluid that "claims" to meet the requirements. Using the wrong fluid will cause the clutches to slip, leading to overheating and the inability to maintain "lock".

ATF fluids designed for GM, Ford or other automatic xmissions have the wrong characteristics (too slippery) for use in DC trannys.

Dont take my word for it, read this website;
http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html

kcsam

I just had my 2001 quad dakota (4wd 5.9l) inspected. The right lower ball joint failed as well as the right tie rod. I took it to the dealer had the upper ball joints replaced under warranty (just a routine maintaince thing had not had problems with them so far) and said there was nothing wrong with the lower ball joints. I jacked up the front end and replaced the right outer tie rod end which did seem worn and a little sloppy. My question is what is the tolerence specs of the lower ball joints movement. I felt nothing. The place where I took it for the inspection was not the dealer. Personelly I think the inspection garage was druming up business on the tune of 400 dollars. Can some one give me the correct tolerance of the lower ball joint so I can go back to this person and make him prove to me that it needs replacement. He would not give me a measurement because he did not measure it. Like I said the dealer said they look fine. Only the uppers is on the recall list as far as I can tell. I have had no drivability issues and have 45,000 miles on this truck. thanks

dustyk

On Dakota the lower and upper ball joint wear tolerance is 0.060 inches unilateral movement maximum.

You are correct, only the uppers are subject to the recall.

Good luck,
Dusty

melj

Where is it located on a Dakota?
Thanks for your help.

bpeebles

The thermostat is usually somwhere on the engine under a "housing".

Which engine do you have?

The 4.7V8 has a "bypass" cooling system which has a dual-acting thermostat which is necessarrly mounted low on the engine where the LOWER radiator hose connects. The 'housing' for it is plastic so follow torque specificaitons carefully.

oljeto

I'm looking for a used Dakota V6 quad cab 4X4 to get a little better fuel mileage than a V8. Any recommendations on a year that seems to be better than others?
I'm not sure what years the V6 quad cab has been mfg'd in my current research.

bpeebles

um... .the 4.7L V8 gets better MPG than the ol V6 which is based on a 1960s engine design. (the 318ci V8 with 2 cylinders lopped off.)

Instead of just thinking "V6" or "V8" you should be researching the SPECIFIC ENGINE that you need to be looking for. Less cylinders does NOT always mean better MPG.

There is a newer V6 (the 3.7L I think) which is based on the 4.7L V8 with 2 cylinders lopped off. (I am not sure if the 3.7L V6 is even available in the Dakota)

dustyk

The 3.7 became available in the Dakota in 2004.

A person that's light-footed and a patient driver can get better fuel consumption with a V6, however under most circumstances it will likely be marginal. In many cases a light-footed Dakota driver with the 4.7 V8 can get slightly better MPG than a moderately or hard driven V6.

Best regards,
Dusty

eharri3

In many cases you will have to drive a V6 harder than a V8 in comparable traffic situations.

amend1

Dear eidlws, Funny you should mention this problem. I went around and around with my dealer Wayne Dodge, when I too was having this problem. On the highway with the cruise control on, the motor would start surging for no reason. I was afraid it might be the transmission so I had them look at it. Those idiots couldn't wash my windshield properly. After ruining my truck and getting it back with new spark plugs (no change) and a leaking transmission pan (no change) I had to figure out what the problem was myself. While on the highway with the cruise on, I reached down and felt the gas pedal. I could feel it jerking as if being pulled suddenly by the cruise cable. When this would happen, the engine would surge. I was able to duplicate the problem by tapping the pedal while at highway speed. This "change" in the throttle position prompted the transmission to go into converter unlock for a split second, causing the engine to surge. It's annoying as hell. I don't know what to do, though. Not sure replacing the cruise unit will fix it.

bobow

Looking to purchase a used (2001-2003) Dakota QC 4.7L 4x4 auto with either AWD or part time 4WD. It would be used in NE Pa mainly in summer and fall, with some winter/snow requirement. There is an allseason offroad requirement also. What would be your recommendation for AWD or PT 4x4??? What are the +'s and -'s regarding reliability, maintenance costs, mileage and off roading/winter capability?

bpeebles

Look for a Dak with the the "trac-loc" rear end. That, coupled with the SOTF xfer case will give you the best offroad traction.

When the xfer case is in "4HI" you will have 3-wheel drive. (2 rear and one front)

If you do not have the "trac-loc" rear end, you will only have 2 wheel drive (one rear and one front)

SOTF = ShiftOnTheFly

gwh

I just took my 00 to the dealer for them to TRY to find out what is causing the problem with the transmission. I will get back to all with their findings and the price to repair. :surprise:

gwh

I just took my 00' to the dealer for them to TRY to find out what is causing the problem with the transmission. I will get back to all with their findings and the price to repair.

Well I just got the Dakota back from the dealer and this is what I was told.
It is not the transmission, the truck needs a tune up. ( Plugs, plug wires, rotor, cap and the throttle body cleaned) The surge that is being felt is a miss not the transmission.

I am thinking of having the tune up done but I don't know if it will solve the problem.
Price around 200.00 for everything.

amend1

GWH, It's not a tune up that it needs. I went through the same thing. I had the Bosch +4's in my 2000 Dakota and they insisted on changing them. It did NOTHING. They changed the trans fluid..it did NOTHING. Although I did wind up with a big puddle of transmission fluid in my driveway. I had to replace the gasket myself after they screwed it up. It's a problem with the cruise control unit. It jerks the throttle and the computer picks that up. It then wants to take the converter out of lock and thus the slight rise in the engine speed. Don't let them give you the "I think it needs this" run around.
Bill

amend1

You can duplicate the problem by holding the vehicle at say 60 MPH on the highway with the cruise off. Keep the throttle steady and tap the brake. Or you can hold your foot on the gas steady, then give it a tap from the position it's at. Both these actions are picked up by the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the brake light wiring and tells the converter (thru the computer) to unlock, temporarily increasing the enging speed. Thats the "surge" you feel.
Bill

bpeebles

Are you saying that you think it is some kind of PROBLEM when your automatic tranny shifts by itself? It sounds as if it is WAD (Working As Designed)

Gee -- I NEVER have a problem with my manual txmission shifting by tself 8-)

kreweroux

I am looking to but a 2005 Dak quad cab SLT in the next week and I want the 6 speed tranny, but none of the dealers around New Orleans have one. I am very reluctant to buy one without driving one. i like shifting for myself and more importantly, by not opting for the $1,000 auto, I can afford the V8. Are there any brave souls who have the new getrag 6 speed. Also, I will be pulling a boat, and i can't get the Limited slip differential with the 6 speed. Boat weighs about 2500 with motor and trailer. Which do you think is more important, the 6 or the LSD? Thanks.

kreweroux

Are you one of the brave souls who has the getrag 6 speed tranny? Would you please see my post on this as I am planning to buy soon and I have some question on this. Thanks

bpeebles

My 2000 Dak has the NV3500 manual tranny.

dustyk

Is this a two-wheel drive truck your speaking of?

Having towed my share of things with manual and automatic transmissions, I would opt again and every time for limited slip over a manual transmission. I had a few occasions where traction was much more of an acute problem than power. In addition, I've seen a good number of people dig themselves deeper or start spinning tires on boat ramps because of poor clutch engagement.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles

(Dusty) I cannot speak for a 2005 Dakota, but in 2000, when I opted for the manual xmission -- the trac-lock (LSD) was MANDITORY.

The factory ordering computer would not allow a V8 with manual xmission be orderd without automaticlly adding the LSD to the order.

It is all too easy to "light up" the rear tires with a V8 and a manual xmission on a pickup truck. This is because there is hardly any weight over the rear wheels.

Speaking of boat-ramps, I find it quite entertaining to watch the boneheads with more money than brains either dig holes or back their expensive rigs into the water until the rear axle is underwater. I can only imagine what happens to the rear differential after water fills up the pumpkin.

sunburn

If you really want the 6-speed manual tranny and the limited slip, you could always add an aftermarket limited slip later. From what I read on other forums, the typical aftermarket limited slips are much stronger than the OEM one. Of course, if it cost $1K to add one (and I don't know how much they cost) you haven't saved much over adding the automatic and LSD. But, you still have the joy of shifting you own gears! It might be something worth checking into.

dustyk

I'm surprized, too, that LSD isn't available with manual transmission. Maybe it's just the six-speed that can't be ordered with it, although I don't see why.

I once watched as a man and woman tried to retrieve their boat from a steep boat launch at Canandaiqua Lake with a brand new Chevy pick-up. He was getting the boat tied down to the trailer but was having trouble because the water level had dropped. This required the trailer to be further down on the ramp. His wife wasn't real good with the clutch and to make matters worse he was hot-blooded and barking orders to her like a drill sergeant.

When she was told to move forward "very slowly" she over revved the engine with the clutch barely at the friction point. He yelled again at her for "burning the clutch" and in her nervous and agitated state stalled the truck. When she released the clutch to restart that brand new truck rolled down the pad and all the way into the lake, resting with water all the way up to the windows. While she's screaming for her life, certain that she was going to drown, her husband was still cursing at her. A bunch of us jumped in and got her out.

Regards,
Dusty

saabgirl

Sounds like the same lout who put an ad in the "Lonely Hearts" section of the newspaper: "Wanted, woman who owns motor boat for possible LTR. Please send pic of boat."