Yeah! This guy appeared to have OD'ed on testosterone. At one point we thought he was going to hit her. After a few people complained of his foul language he made some incautious threats to them. The poor woman was in tears. Her juvenile husband was so consumed with his new Chevy truck and cigarette boat that he didn't notice for twenty minutes that somebody else took her and her sister home.
bpeebles, What I'm saying is the computer is being told by virtue of throttle movement to disengage the lockup on the converter. When this happens, the engine speed goes up which sounds like the tranny is trying to shift. There is throttle movement because, for whatever reason, the cruise cable is jerking the throttle ever so slightly. This will not show up as any fault because, as you say, it's working normally.
I recently backed my 2005 quad 4x4 into a ford escort and bent my rear bumper. Instead of replacing it with OEM parts, I would like to install a tubular rear bumper with a built in hitch reciever. I cannot seem to find one locally or online. Any suggestions? OBTW, I crushed the rear quarter of the escort with a 5-foot backup slam. Thewy stopped in the street right behind me as I was backing out of my driveway. :surprise:
My power steering went out yesterday. It is drivable but it takes 3 mules to turn this 2001 dakota, quad cab, slt package with 4wd, with 5.9l engine. How common is it for the power steering pump to go out. It was a little low on fluid did not appear to be leaking anywhere and the fluid did not have any burnt smell to it. Is there anyother problems this could be besides the power stering pump and is it a hard do it yourself fix. I had the steering wheel crank all the way to one side trying to get the truck and the boat I was towing out of a tight spot and the sudden loss of power steering was a son-of-a-gun to say the least. Thanks for any input. Will start pricing pumps.
I have definately noticed this annoyance, can anthing be done about it. Before my warranty was up took it to the dealer and of course nothing was wrong. That little sure is just plain irritating, never had problems like this on any other cruise control.
The pulley seems to be spinning ok, not sure can tell anything else just by eyeballing the thing. That was my first thought that the belt broke or the engine died when I first noticed the power gone. I opened the hood and obviously one belt to the whole thing so I knew the belt could not have broken. There cannot be a problem with the lower unit where the pump goes into the steering column could there. Like I said it steers ok, just impossible to crank the wheel at low speeds (not impossible just very hard).....also seems to be making a faint clicking noise.
You said "I had the steering wheel crank all the way to one side". I believe that if you hold the steering wheel against the stops for more than a few seconds that you can cause damage. The shop manual for my Ram says "NOTE: Do not contact or hold the wheel against the steering stops." I also believe that there was something in the owners manual for my 2000 Dakota that warned against that as well. I suspect you probably either blew an internal seal in the steering rack or a valve inside the power steering pump. I don't believe either are serviceable and are just replaced. Good Luck, Rick
What is the procedure for loosening the main belt so I can replace the power steering unit, I need to loosen up the tensioner pulley, any advice. Does it take a special tool to loosen or tighten. thanks
Anybody care to offer any real world mileage numbers?
I am looking at a Quad Cab with 4.7L. The 2WD model that has everything I want, and then some, is at a dealer over a hundred miles away and the local dealer can't get it. They have a 4WD model with all that I want that is only about $1400 more than the 2WD model. On Dodge's website the mileage on the stickers are the same 15 city/20hwy.
I took delivery of a 4x4 Quad Cab 5 speed auto a couple of weeks ago.
I've done some city driving, some highway. After 800 miles I'm showing (on the computer) just under 19 mpg. There have been various previous posts that the computer mileage may be 1 mpg optimistic.
This includes a trip from Detroit to Flint Michigan (all highway) and a trip from Detroit to Elkhart Indiana (part highway, part 2 lane black top, 30 minutes creeping in construction zone 10 miles long.
I did add a tonneau cover to the bed after the Flint trip and before the Elkhart trip. Tonneau covers are rumored to increase highway mileage.
Most miles are with me as lone occupant, but the Elkhart trip included passenger, about 100 pounds of junk and luggage in the back seat, and an antique rocker (as in chair, not as in Mick Jagger).
Don't know about the 2WD model - in Detroit winters any premium I'm paying in fuel mileage for 4WD is worth it .
We just bought our very first Dodge, and so far love it, have some issues that I hope you all can help me with. Within 48 hours of ownership, the Engine light came on (the one that looks like an engine) all the gauges showed no issues, and unfortunately we do not have an owners manual, to tell us what this may signify. We have a 2002 QC 4.7L auto 4x4. can any of you help with that?? For all I know it needs an air filter, or it could be something REALLY serious.... It isnt scheduled for an oil change for another 4000 miles. thanks, sandi
When I use my cruise control (2001 Dakota quad cab), the engine misses and the rpm drops anywhere from 100-200rpm. I just got the truck back from the dealer yesterday and they could find no problem. I've heard there is a black ball attached to a vaccum hose that controls the cruise control, and if this hose has a hole in it, the vaccum leak could affect the performance of the cruise control? Does anyone know exactly where this black ball is located? Anyone had a similar problem that they were able to correct. Thanks!
My 2001 4.7 Quad 2wd,auto w/56k miles gets 16+ around town, just got 21+ on trip. I had replaced plugs, air filter and cleaned trottle body. Dealer replaced bad oxygen sensor. I still have orginal brakes and tires, but just about due for both. All ball joints were replaced at 35k miles. New shocks at 40k. It's been a GREAT truck!!!!
Well, we found the problem, It wouldn't give me a code..... {Hold down the odometer button and turn the key to "run" and it will go thru the diagnostics} Had to take it back to the dealer to get it put on the PC. It needed a new gas cap AND it had a split vacuum hose. all fixed and light is off... LOVE THIS TRUCK!!!
Thank you all for your help and suggestions, really appreciate it.
Bruce and or Dusty, my check engine light went on again tonight. Last time it was a $106.00 gas cap. (2000 Quad, 4.7). This code read: "P0155." Looked it up and this is what was listed:
Now as far as computer controlled gasoline internal combustion engines are concerned, I know how to install and gap points, check coils and replace spark plugs. On diesel engines, I can set the rack (Detroit), convert John Deere engines by installing aneroid technology, and fully understand and have a wonderful relationship with Cummins (especially "B" series). But, I have never heated an Oxygen sensor. What am I facing? Can I clear this code without resorting to battery disconnection? Appreciate your help.
(bookiity) Each of the O2 sensors have a built in electric heater. This heater helps the O2 sensor come up to operational temperture quicker than O2 sensor without heater.
The code you are refering to is basically the result of the computer taking an "ohms" check across the O2 sensor heater circuits to make sure the heater is not "open". As you may be aware, electric heating elements eventually burn out so this is not uncommon.
If the wiring is known to be OK, then the only way to fix this is to replace the O2 sensor. O2 sensors are just screwed into the exhaust system on BOTH ends of the catalytic converters. (My 4.7L v8 has 4 O2 sensors.)
The good news is that for your year 2000 vehicle, the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE covers all emmissions equipment for 10 years 100,000 miles. The FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE booklet came with your owners manual.
My faith in you and your extensive knowledge is once more proven. Thank you for the explanation and the tip regarding the warranty on the emission system.
My engine just started sputtering when I engage Cruise control. I have an '01 Quad Cab, 2WD, V6. 110,000 km. I was on the highway and engage the CC @ 110km/h. It would sputter or stutter every 2 mins or so. I got off the highway and tried the CC at different speeds, still happening. I turned off the CC and I didn't feel, but I think it was running alittle rougher.
Any ideas of what it might be? How can I check for computer code information on my truck?
Proud owner of an '05 DAK quad. I've been upgrading a few things (audio, air filter, Bak tonneau) & I ran into an installation wall. Successfully installed a power tailgate lock until I had to attach 2 wires to the harness by the driver firewall. Instructions called for orange/black & pink/black wires. Orange/black exists... but no pink/black. Anyone have a hint for the door lock wires in the '05 Dak? Can't seem to find a wiring diagram online.
Great link Jim. I spent 3 hours pulling door panels and testing wires. Finally found the right combo for my tailgate lock. Light Green & Tan/Orange for the drivers side (rear door) sets tailgate lock like the non drivers doors (requires 2 clicks to open...1 to lock). Hardly pink/black & orange/black per instructions. Oh well. Your fabulous link confirms what I discovered through trial & error, sweat & tears. Thanks a bunch... I'll keep this handy for the future.
I had the same thing come up on my truck. Try this, take off your gas cap and put it back on and make sure it is tight. Then disconnect the negitive battery post and wait 15 minutes, then reconnect it. Your light will more than likely go out. That has been the same common problem with these trucks, if the gas cap is not sealed it will trigger on that engine light, because the fuel system is under a small vacuum.
I am not so certain that disconnecting the battery is the most prudent solution. That also "zeroes" the on board computer as I understand it. This means that the vehicle must re-learn driving conditions that are established by the primary driver. I think that Bruce (bpeebles) and Dusty (dustyk) can offer more information than I.
Bookitty is correct, disconnecting the battery makes the onboard computer "stupid" and it may take weeks (or years) for it to relearn how to control the engine and xmission. Dont forget that the computer "remembers" the outside tempurture for all the saved settings... so it must re-encounter those temps. before it can relearn under those conditions.
It is farr better to KNOW what the problem code is and deal with it from that perspective.
Location of blower motor resistor, 2001. Mounted vertically in plenum case under dash on passenger side directly in line with glove box latch. Five wires to connector. Two fasteners requiring an 8mm socket. Connector is easier to remove if resistor is out. P/N 4885635AC. I paid $9.90 at the dealer about a year and a half ago.
My problem: fan only worked on "High" setting. This has been a problem for a number of owners. It appears that there were some quality issues with the resistors made around that period. I haven't had any problems with the replacement part.
The blower resister is not really a "quality issue". I have had to replace the blower resister in most of the vehicles I have owned over the years. (Chevy, Honda...etc)
Since the blower-resister runs pretty hot (cherry red at times), it is not surprising that it may burn out.
Who told you that. That really makes me laugh because that is so wrong. The computer does not record the outside temperature for the engine to run. The engine and emissions runs off the oxygen sensor thats updates the computer to the conditions, it feeds back to the computer 220 times a minute. Just think about it, How could you buy the truck from the dealer if it was ran off of data received from conditions that it never saw yet? Secondly, every time you take our truck to the dealer for electrical problems or any thing under the hood, the first thing they do is disconnect the battery, they do not save no data before they do this. Thirdly, how do you replace your battery when it dies? Fourth, How do you replace your computer if that dies, which happens from time to time.
>>>The computer does not record the outside temperature for the engine to run.<<<
I don't know if the PCM "records" the outside air temperature, but the PCM does read the intake manifold air temperature sensor. This value is used, along with other sensors, to determine the pulse width of the fuel injectors and ultimately control the air-to-fuel ratio in the open and closed loop modes.
Chrysler did move the blower resistor from the 2000 Dakotas to 2003. I think mine is located on the floor pan, while earlier models had it mounted to the bottom of the blower housing. I think. Or is it the other way around?
Anyway, blower resistor failures are a bit generic to the breed. They get very hot at certain fan speeds and over time from the many cycles of cold-to-hot-to-cold the casing cracks and electrical connection is lost. As Bpeebles points out, Hondas, Nissans, and especially Chevy trucks are noted for this, too. I haven't heard of any failures on newer Daks, though.
Chrysler did move the blower resistor from the 2000 Dakotas to 2003. I think mine is located on the floor pan, while earlier models had it mounted to the bottom of the blower housing. I think. Or is it the other way around?
Anyway, blower resistor failures are a bit generic to the breed. They get very hot at certain fan speeds and over time from the many cycles of cold-to-hot-tocold the casing cracks and electrical connection is lost. As Bpeebles points out, Hondas, Nissans, and especially Chevy trucks are noted for this, too. I haven't heard of any failures on newer Daks, though.
Gee, I have the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and it has an entire chapter explaining how the computer "learns". Also, since I am trained in engineering and am a programmer by trade, I believe that I did not mis-read the technical information. (I have read that chapter several times)
The onbaord computer DOES IN FACT learn based on several inputs. One of those inputs is the intake air temp., Another is the temp. sensor underneath the battery.
To answer your question "How could you buy the truck from the dealer if it was ran off of data received from conditions that it never saw yet? " The answer is that there are "default conditions " that it starts with....then, the fudge-factors are stored in volatile memory to modify the default conditions.
The very REASON the dealership disconnects the battery is to make it fall back to "default conditions". Oftentimes, that will make a problem go away long enough to let the vehicle go out of warantee before the problem (and the vehicle) comes back to them.
your question "how do you replace your battery when it dies?" is simple, just replace it. There is a time-delay before it 'forgets' its learning. Most vehicles give you about 10 minutes to replace a battery before it forgets.
(Many vehicles are much worse, if the battery is disconnected too long, the radio will not work any longer until a special code it programmed into it.)
To answer your last question " How do you replace your computer if that dies, " After replacement, it has to be PROGRAMMED based on the VIN (vehicle Identification Number) Again, this is all spelled out in the factory service manual. Purchasing a used computer from a scrapyard may be a VERY bad idea because of the VIN-unique base coding.
Not only is is POSSIBLE, it is FACT that todays automobiles are very sophisticated and do, in-fact "learn" and remember specific conditions so they can be recalled again later.
Unless you have some information that contradicts the factory service manual perhaps you should not laugh so loudly. In the future, please refrain from calling people "wrong" without fist knowing the facts yourself.
Might I suggest that you procure a factory service manual and technically READ it. (meaning -- take notes as if there will be a test later)
bward24, no disrespect intended, but my money would have to ride on Bruce (bpeebles). Since the incept of the Dakota Forum, Bruce has always been a resource for precise technical information as well as common sense remedies. When Bruce tells you that such and such lubricant/tires/shocks are the best, you can take it to the bank. Everything that he reports is based upon thorough research. He has been and remains a staunch contributor to these pages. This is a great forum because we don't laugh at opinions and do not ridicule other members. We do torture one another occasionally, but it is always in fun and good humor. That's why even our former Dakota owners such as Rick (iowabigguy) Ben (mopar67) and others continue to read and contribute to the Dakota Forum. Dusty (dustyk) is another reliable resource and seems to have a great deal of "hands on" field related experience in addition to general intelligence and knowledge. Unfortunately, I cannot be a resource in this matter, but if you run into a hydraulic/electric/mechanical problem with a crane (friction and/or hydraulic) rough terrain forklift, log handler/skidder, knuckle boom loader or truck mounted aerial platform, try me on. Diesel queries cheerfully handled, as long as they don't involve on board computers.
SInce you are a diesel-guy, does that mean we can now discuss my IQ? (Injection Quantity)
Did you know that my other (wifes) vehicle is a diesel? I just LLOOVVEE the better than 50 MPG. 700 miles per tank of fuel is not unusual. There is not another vehicle available at any dealership in the USA that can get >50 mpg all day long at hyway speeds with the AC on. The 10,000 mile oil change interval means low maintenance costs.
Speaking of research, .... check out "Mobil1 Truck&SUV" . It is essentually "Mobil Delvac1" in a differernt package. I run it in my 4.7L Dakota. The ol' sludge issue has all but disaperead while running this oil.
Not meaning to break notably from the particular forum resonanace, but your input about the fuel consumption struck a note on my own curiosity in that regard.
IN '90 I bought the wife a new Geo Metro LSI (all bells and whistles), and after 240,000+ miles, w/AC on, it still got 50 miles a gallon, was very maintenance effecient, and had no major problems. It wasn't real big nor a zoom rocket, but, it was as roomy as many of today's and quick enough to be very surprising to any who rode in it.
With all the stats and realities of a finite fuel source (oil) being what they are, it is time for manufacuturers to step up to the plate and put all available fuel effeciency on the road and out of the tombs.
I am and have been completely pleased with both my quad cab dakotas, except for the fuel ineffeciency. I have seen and heard a lot of hair-splitting about this truck or that truck in being more or less fuel effecient. But, all I see are very, very small differences in any of them. Certainly not enough to corrupt ones wants and needs in a truck.
The new '05 Dakota is a VERY different vehicle than its ancestors. I have chosen Dodge trucks since my '49 Dodge. I have had a couple others mixed in there in the last few decades, but never been as overall satisfied as with the Dodges. I get a truck for using. I'm afraid I'm not much 'fashion statement' oriented.
When Dakotas first came out in quad cab, and I saw my first (the lady who was fueling let me look inside/outside/under) one, it was only a matter of time. All the rhetoric about the Colorados, Explorers, etc being this or that, as far as I'm concerned is just that. My '01 quad was everything I had hoped, and more. The only reason I got an '05 quad is because of the changes I researched and the reasoning behind those changes. The Dakota quad cab is a keeper design for my purpose and intent.
I travel about 50 miles to my dealer. And, it generally boggles my mind to hear of many things told about dealers in forums. My dealer has never been anything less than actually enjoyable. But then, having owned businesses myself for the last 30+ years, I do not have unreasonable expectations from any business.
We had a power steering problem with the PT and it took 4 trips to finally get it right. They were always apologetic, and have not allowed me to pay for oil changes for it during the months we were working on the problem. If there has been any way possible, they would fix a problem 'under warranty'. I change a lot of my own oil, but to have them do a bumper to bumper check and change the oil for about 20 bucks, is well worth it, and it gives me opportunity to check out what's new on the lot. It's good business. I'm not going to squabble on price on a vehicle (much), knowing I'll be covered happily if there is any problem and even if there's not a real problem. Certainly, over the years, I have sent business their way, as well.
There are no perfect vehicles. But, the quad cab dakota is about as close to it as possible for my wants and needs. Roomy inside and out, enough power, well built, sharp enough looking (as far as I'm concerned), dependable and durable.
Of course, as I have mentioned in this forum before, I do not care much for 'extras'. As far as I'm concerned, they are 'extra' things to go wrong.
Michael, you made an important point when you spoke about and praised your particular dealer. I represented construction equipment manufacturers for various types of rough terrain material handlers as well as truck mounted equipment and all types of cranes (heavy on hydraulic and light on friction). I have always professed that there were no great or poor machines. Only great of poor dealers. I was always fortunate to be able to cultivate wonderful a "dealer family" to represent the manufacturer for whom I worked. I actually had two dealers who represented me for 37 years on four different product lines. We always knew that we could count on each other in order to provide the best for the end user. I have climbed on and under machines because the factory service representative was 1000 miles distant, and a "down machine" is never acceptable. There is no such piece of equipment that is perfect. There are however some darn good dealers who try to be perfect to support their end users.
Bruce, to tag onto your mileage story on diesel powered automobiles; Some years ago I had a diesel powered VW Rabbit. On a trip home from Richmond, VA to Langhorne, PA (approximately 250 miles) I tried this experiment. I left Richmond at 3:00 AM so that I could attend a school function for one of my sons. I inflated the tires to 50PSI and kept the vehicle @ 55 MPH for the entire trip. I actually got 50 MPG on that trip. It was cool and slightly damp. And, that was a hybrid engine, not a "drawing board" diesel. The car was so underpowered, that if the brakes failed, all you had to do was engage the A/C.
You may or may not know this, but Rudolph Diesel committed suicide by jumping off of an ocean liner. After failed experiments using powdered coal and finally using coal oil (kerosene), he felt that the diesel engine was not reliable and that he was a failure.
2 Weeks ago my Mother in Law calls up and asks if I would be interested in her 2000 Dakota QuadCab. Hunter Green, 3.9L V6, 2 wheel drive, air, Leer canopy w/ matching color, no electric windows or door locks, AM/FM cassette 45,000 miles. I told her it would be nice, but, I cannot afford anything like that right now. She asks If I can pay $200 a month no interest till the $5,000 is payed, yes, $5,000. The interior is grey and immaculate, the exterior has a few little scratches, but, what 5 year old car doesn't. I just found this site and will be going over everything I can find . I am still exxcited to have this. Drives like a car, has more than enough room for everything. Now I need to sell my 82 Volvo wagon. Thanks, Lenny
I have been reading about the hesitation when the cruise control is on , I have a 2001 5.9l quad cab slt. I understand from this postings that it caused from the converted temp disengaging. Is there a fix for this or is there a tsb from dodge addressing this annoying issue. It makes me not want to use my cruise control. thanks for any input. :mad:
I found the tsb (08-035-00) reguarding this cruise control surge issue, does anyone know what the fix is, if there is one. Next step is the dealer which I would like to avoid.
Comments
Dusty
What I'm saying is the computer is being told by virtue of throttle movement to disengage the lockup on the converter. When this happens, the engine speed goes up which sounds like the tranny is trying to shift. There is throttle movement because, for whatever reason, the cruise cable is jerking the throttle ever so slightly. This will not show up as any fault because, as you say, it's working normally.
Bookitty
You may also want to lift the front wheels on jackstands and see if that improves the situation. (It *could* be some part of the steering linkage)
The Dakota service manual states:
"CAUTION: Do not force the pump to operate against the stops for more than 3 to 3 seconds at a time because pump damage WILL result."
A similar caution is also listed in my '93 Nissan and '99 Toyota manuals, by the way.
Regards,
Dusty
I am looking at a Quad Cab with 4.7L. The 2WD model that has everything I want,
and then some, is at a dealer over a hundred miles away and the local dealer
can't get it. They have a 4WD model with all that I want that is only about $1400 more
than the 2WD model. On Dodge's website the mileage on the stickers are the same
15 city/20hwy.
Thanks!
Paul
I took delivery of a 4x4 Quad Cab 5 speed auto a couple of weeks ago.
I've done some city driving, some highway. After 800 miles I'm showing (on the computer) just under 19 mpg. There have been various previous posts that the computer mileage may be 1 mpg optimistic.
This includes a trip from Detroit to Flint Michigan (all highway) and a trip from Detroit to Elkhart Indiana (part highway, part 2 lane black top, 30 minutes creeping in construction zone 10 miles long.
I did add a tonneau cover to the bed after the Flint trip and before the Elkhart trip. Tonneau covers are rumored to increase highway mileage.
Most miles are with me as lone occupant, but the Elkhart trip included passenger, about 100 pounds of junk and luggage in the back seat, and an antique rocker (as in chair, not as in Mick Jagger).
Don't know about the 2WD model - in Detroit winters any premium I'm paying in fuel mileage for 4WD is worth it .
HTH
Jim
Within 48 hours of ownership, the Engine light came on (the one that looks like an engine) all the gauges showed no issues, and unfortunately we do not have an owners manual, to tell us what this may signify.
We have a 2002 QC 4.7L auto 4x4. can any of you help with that??
For all I know it needs an air filter, or it could be something REALLY serious....
It isnt scheduled for an oil change for another 4000 miles.
thanks,
sandi
WITHOUT STARTING ENGINE, quickly turn the key from OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (3 times) Then leave the key in the ON position.
The digital display will show that it is running diagnostics then reveal any stored codes that are logged in the computer memory. Write them down.
Then, visit the following websites to determine what the code(s) mean.
http://www.ptcruizer.com/computer-codes.html
http://www.obdii.com/codes.html
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
What do you think?
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks again for the help.
All ball joints were replaced at 35k miles. New shocks at 40k.
It's been a GREAT truck!!!!
Mick
Had to take it back to the dealer to get it put on the PC. It needed a new gas cap AND it had a split vacuum hose. all fixed and light is off... LOVE THIS TRUCK!!!
Thank you all for your help and suggestions, really appreciate it.
I am looking for the same type bumper for my 2001. Any luck locating a good source?
Thanks,
TTFN
" 7C P0155 O2 SENSOR 2/1 HEATER CKT Oxygen sensor 2/1 heater element malfunction."
Now as far as computer controlled gasoline internal combustion engines are concerned, I know how to install and gap points, check coils and replace spark plugs. On diesel engines, I can set the rack (Detroit), convert John Deere engines by installing aneroid technology, and fully understand and have a wonderful relationship with Cummins (especially "B" series). But, I have never heated an Oxygen sensor. What am I facing? Can I clear this code without resorting to battery disconnection? Appreciate your help.
Norm (Bookitty)
The code you are refering to is basically the result of the computer taking an "ohms" check across the O2 sensor heater circuits to make sure the heater is not "open". As you may be aware, electric heating elements eventually burn out so this is not uncommon.
If the wiring is known to be OK, then the only way to fix this is to replace the O2 sensor. O2 sensors are just screwed into the exhaust system on BOTH ends of the catalytic converters. (My 4.7L v8 has 4 O2 sensors.)
The good news is that for your year 2000 vehicle, the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE covers all emmissions equipment for 10 years 100,000 miles. The FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE booklet came with your owners manual.
Norm (Bookitty)
Any ideas of what it might be? How can I check for computer code information on my truck?
Can't seem to find a wiring diagram online.
I spent 3 hours pulling door panels and testing wires. Finally found the right combo for my tailgate lock. Light Green & Tan/Orange for the drivers side (rear door) sets tailgate lock like the non drivers doors (requires 2 clicks to open...1 to lock).
Hardly pink/black & orange/black per instructions. Oh well.
Your fabulous link confirms what I discovered through trial & error, sweat & tears.
Thanks a bunch... I'll keep this handy for the future.
Bookitty
It is farr better to KNOW what the problem code is and deal with it from that perspective.
Dick
Dick
Since the blower-resister runs pretty hot (cherry red at times), it is not surprising that it may burn out.
I don't know if the PCM "records" the outside air temperature, but the PCM does read the intake manifold air temperature sensor. This value is used, along with other sensors, to determine the pulse width of the fuel injectors and ultimately control the air-to-fuel ratio in the open and closed loop modes.
Regards,
Dusty
Anyway, blower resistor failures are a bit generic to the breed. They get very hot at certain fan speeds and over time from the many cycles of cold-to-hot-to-cold the casing cracks and electrical connection is lost. As Bpeebles points out, Hondas, Nissans, and especially Chevy trucks are noted for this, too. I haven't heard of any failures on newer Daks, though.
Regards,
Dusty
Anyway, blower resistor failures are a bit generic to the breed. They get very hot at certain fan speeds and over time from the many cycles of cold-to-hot-tocold the casing cracks and electrical connection is lost. As Bpeebles points out, Hondas, Nissans, and especially Chevy trucks are noted for this, too. I haven't heard of any failures on newer Daks, though.
Regards,
Dusty
The onbaord computer DOES IN FACT learn based on several inputs. One of those inputs is the intake air temp., Another is the temp. sensor underneath the battery.
To answer your question "How could you buy the truck from the dealer if it was ran off of data received from conditions that it never saw yet? " The answer is that there are "default conditions " that it starts with....then, the fudge-factors are stored in volatile memory to modify the default conditions.
The very REASON the dealership disconnects the battery is to make it fall back to "default conditions". Oftentimes, that will make a problem go away long enough to let the vehicle go out of warantee before the problem (and the vehicle) comes back to them.
your question "how do you replace your battery when it dies?" is simple, just replace it. There is a time-delay before it 'forgets' its learning. Most vehicles give you about 10 minutes to replace a battery before it forgets.
(Many vehicles are much worse, if the battery is disconnected too long, the radio will not work any longer until a special code it programmed into it.)
To answer your last question " How do you replace your computer if that dies, " After replacement, it has to be PROGRAMMED based on the VIN (vehicle Identification Number) Again, this is all spelled out in the factory service manual. Purchasing a used computer from a scrapyard may be a VERY bad idea because of the VIN-unique base coding.
Not only is is POSSIBLE, it is FACT that todays automobiles are very sophisticated and do, in-fact "learn" and remember specific conditions so they can be recalled again later.
Unless you have some information that contradicts the factory service manual perhaps you should not laugh so loudly. In the future, please refrain from calling people "wrong" without fist knowing the facts yourself.
Might I suggest that you procure a factory service manual and technically READ it. (meaning -- take notes as if there will be a test later)
Ben (mopar67) and others continue to read and contribute to the Dakota Forum. Dusty (dustyk) is another reliable resource and seems to have a great deal of "hands on" field related experience in addition to general intelligence and knowledge. Unfortunately, I cannot be a resource in this matter, but if you run into a hydraulic/electric/mechanical problem with a crane (friction and/or hydraulic) rough terrain forklift, log handler/skidder, knuckle boom loader or truck mounted aerial platform, try me on. Diesel queries cheerfully handled, as long as they don't involve on board computers.
Bookitty
SInce you are a diesel-guy, does that mean we can now discuss my IQ? (Injection Quantity)
Did you know that my other (wifes) vehicle is a diesel? I just LLOOVVEE the better than 50 MPG. 700 miles per tank of fuel is not unusual. There is not another vehicle available at any dealership in the USA that can get >50 mpg all day long at hyway speeds with the AC on. The 10,000 mile oil change interval means low maintenance costs.
Speaking of research, .... check out "Mobil1 Truck&SUV" . It is essentually "Mobil Delvac1" in a differernt package. I run it in my 4.7L Dakota. The ol' sludge issue has all but disaperead while running this oil.
IN '90 I bought the wife a new Geo Metro LSI (all bells and whistles), and after 240,000+ miles, w/AC on, it still got 50 miles a gallon, was very maintenance effecient, and had no major problems.
It wasn't real big nor a zoom rocket, but, it was as roomy as many of today's and quick enough to be very surprising to any who rode in it.
With all the stats and realities of a finite fuel source (oil) being what they are, it is time for manufacuturers to step up to the plate and put all available fuel effeciency on the road and out of the tombs.
I am and have been completely pleased with both my quad cab dakotas, except for the fuel ineffeciency. I have seen and heard a lot of hair-splitting about this truck or that truck in being more or less fuel effecient. But, all I see are very, very small differences in any of them. Certainly not enough to corrupt ones wants and needs in a truck.
The new '05 Dakota is a VERY different vehicle than its ancestors. I have chosen Dodge trucks since my '49 Dodge. I have had a couple others mixed in there in the last few decades, but never been as overall satisfied as with the Dodges.
I get a truck for using. I'm afraid I'm not much 'fashion statement' oriented.
When Dakotas first came out in quad cab, and I saw my first (the lady who was fueling let me look inside/outside/under) one, it was only a matter of time.
All the rhetoric about the Colorados, Explorers, etc being this or that, as far as I'm concerned is just that.
My '01 quad was everything I had hoped, and more. The only reason I got an '05 quad is because of the changes I researched and the reasoning behind those changes. The Dakota quad cab is a keeper design for my purpose and intent.
I travel about 50 miles to my dealer. And, it generally boggles my mind to hear of many things told about dealers in forums. My dealer has never been anything less than actually enjoyable. But then, having owned businesses myself for the last 30+ years, I do not have unreasonable expectations from any business.
We had a power steering problem with the PT and it took 4 trips to finally get it right. They were always apologetic, and have not allowed me to pay for oil changes for it during the months we were working on the problem. If there has been any way possible, they would fix a problem 'under warranty'.
I change a lot of my own oil, but to have them do a bumper to bumper check and change the oil for about 20 bucks, is well worth it, and it gives me opportunity to check out what's new on the lot.
It's good business. I'm not going to squabble on price on a vehicle (much), knowing I'll be covered happily if there is any problem and even if there's not a real problem.
Certainly, over the years, I have sent business their way, as well.
There are no perfect vehicles. But, the quad cab dakota is about as close to it as possible for my wants and needs. Roomy inside and out, enough power, well built, sharp enough looking (as far as I'm concerned), dependable and durable.
Of course, as I have mentioned in this forum before, I do not care much for 'extras'.
As far as I'm concerned, they are 'extra' things to go wrong.
Bruce, to tag onto your mileage story on diesel powered automobiles;
Some years ago I had a diesel powered VW Rabbit. On a trip home from Richmond, VA to Langhorne, PA (approximately 250 miles) I tried this experiment. I left Richmond at 3:00 AM so that I could attend a school function for one of my sons. I inflated the tires to 50PSI and kept the vehicle @ 55 MPH for the entire trip.
I actually got 50 MPG on that trip. It was cool and slightly damp. And, that was a hybrid engine, not a "drawing board" diesel. The car was so underpowered, that if the brakes failed, all you had to do was engage the A/C.
You may or may not know this, but Rudolph Diesel committed suicide by jumping off of an ocean liner. After failed experiments using powdered coal and finally using coal oil (kerosene), he felt that the diesel engine was not reliable and that he was a failure.
Bookitty
Book, you finally got me to laugh today. That was great!!
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks,
Lenny