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Comments
Dusty
What I'm saying is the computer is being told by virtue of throttle movement to disengage the lockup on the converter. When this happens, the engine speed goes up which sounds like the tranny is trying to shift. There is throttle movement because, for whatever reason, the cruise cable is jerking the throttle ever so slightly. This will not show up as any fault because, as you say, it's working normally.
Bookitty
You may also want to lift the front wheels on jackstands and see if that improves the situation. (It *could* be some part of the steering linkage)
The Dakota service manual states:
"CAUTION: Do not force the pump to operate against the stops for more than 3 to 3 seconds at a time because pump damage WILL result."
A similar caution is also listed in my '93 Nissan and '99 Toyota manuals, by the way.
Regards,
Dusty
I am looking at a Quad Cab with 4.7L. The 2WD model that has everything I want,
and then some, is at a dealer over a hundred miles away and the local dealer
can't get it. They have a 4WD model with all that I want that is only about $1400 more
than the 2WD model. On Dodge's website the mileage on the stickers are the same
15 city/20hwy.
Thanks!
Paul
I took delivery of a 4x4 Quad Cab 5 speed auto a couple of weeks ago.
I've done some city driving, some highway. After 800 miles I'm showing (on the computer) just under 19 mpg. There have been various previous posts that the computer mileage may be 1 mpg optimistic.
This includes a trip from Detroit to Flint Michigan (all highway) and a trip from Detroit to Elkhart Indiana (part highway, part 2 lane black top, 30 minutes creeping in construction zone 10 miles long.
I did add a tonneau cover to the bed after the Flint trip and before the Elkhart trip. Tonneau covers are rumored to increase highway mileage.
Most miles are with me as lone occupant, but the Elkhart trip included passenger, about 100 pounds of junk and luggage in the back seat, and an antique rocker (as in chair, not as in Mick Jagger).
Don't know about the 2WD model - in Detroit winters any premium I'm paying in fuel mileage for 4WD is worth it .
HTH
Jim
Within 48 hours of ownership, the Engine light came on (the one that looks like an engine) all the gauges showed no issues, and unfortunately we do not have an owners manual, to tell us what this may signify.
We have a 2002 QC 4.7L auto 4x4. can any of you help with that??
For all I know it needs an air filter, or it could be something REALLY serious....
It isnt scheduled for an oil change for another 4000 miles.
thanks,
sandi
WITHOUT STARTING ENGINE, quickly turn the key from OFF-ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (3 times) Then leave the key in the ON position.
The digital display will show that it is running diagnostics then reveal any stored codes that are logged in the computer memory. Write them down.
Then, visit the following websites to determine what the code(s) mean.
http://www.ptcruizer.com/computer-codes.html
http://www.obdii.com/codes.html
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
What do you think?
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks again for the help.
All ball joints were replaced at 35k miles. New shocks at 40k.
It's been a GREAT truck!!!!
Mick
Had to take it back to the dealer to get it put on the PC. It needed a new gas cap AND it had a split vacuum hose. all fixed and light is off... LOVE THIS TRUCK!!!
Thank you all for your help and suggestions, really appreciate it.
I am looking for the same type bumper for my 2001. Any luck locating a good source?
Thanks,
TTFN
" 7C P0155 O2 SENSOR 2/1 HEATER CKT Oxygen sensor 2/1 heater element malfunction."
Now as far as computer controlled gasoline internal combustion engines are concerned, I know how to install and gap points, check coils and replace spark plugs. On diesel engines, I can set the rack (Detroit), convert John Deere engines by installing aneroid technology, and fully understand and have a wonderful relationship with Cummins (especially "B" series). But, I have never heated an Oxygen sensor. What am I facing? Can I clear this code without resorting to battery disconnection? Appreciate your help.
Norm (Bookitty)
The code you are refering to is basically the result of the computer taking an "ohms" check across the O2 sensor heater circuits to make sure the heater is not "open". As you may be aware, electric heating elements eventually burn out so this is not uncommon.
If the wiring is known to be OK, then the only way to fix this is to replace the O2 sensor. O2 sensors are just screwed into the exhaust system on BOTH ends of the catalytic converters. (My 4.7L v8 has 4 O2 sensors.)
The good news is that for your year 2000 vehicle, the FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE covers all emmissions equipment for 10 years 100,000 miles. The FEDERAL EMMISSIONS WARANTEE booklet came with your owners manual.
Norm (Bookitty)
Any ideas of what it might be? How can I check for computer code information on my truck?
Can't seem to find a wiring diagram online.
I spent 3 hours pulling door panels and testing wires. Finally found the right combo for my tailgate lock. Light Green & Tan/Orange for the drivers side (rear door) sets tailgate lock like the non drivers doors (requires 2 clicks to open...1 to lock).
Hardly pink/black & orange/black per instructions. Oh well.
Your fabulous link confirms what I discovered through trial & error, sweat & tears.
Thanks a bunch... I'll keep this handy for the future.
Bookitty
It is farr better to KNOW what the problem code is and deal with it from that perspective.
Dick
Dick
Since the blower-resister runs pretty hot (cherry red at times), it is not surprising that it may burn out.
I don't know if the PCM "records" the outside air temperature, but the PCM does read the intake manifold air temperature sensor. This value is used, along with other sensors, to determine the pulse width of the fuel injectors and ultimately control the air-to-fuel ratio in the open and closed loop modes.
Regards,
Dusty
Anyway, blower resistor failures are a bit generic to the breed. They get very hot at certain fan speeds and over time from the many cycles of cold-to-hot-to-cold the casing cracks and electrical connection is lost. As Bpeebles points out, Hondas, Nissans, and especially Chevy trucks are noted for this, too. I haven't heard of any failures on newer Daks, though.
Regards,
Dusty
Anyway, blower resistor failures are a bit generic to the breed. They get very hot at certain fan speeds and over time from the many cycles of cold-to-hot-tocold the casing cracks and electrical connection is lost. As Bpeebles points out, Hondas, Nissans, and especially Chevy trucks are noted for this, too. I haven't heard of any failures on newer Daks, though.
Regards,
Dusty
The onbaord computer DOES IN FACT learn based on several inputs. One of those inputs is the intake air temp., Another is the temp. sensor underneath the battery.
To answer your question "How could you buy the truck from the dealer if it was ran off of data received from conditions that it never saw yet? " The answer is that there are "default conditions " that it starts with....then, the fudge-factors are stored in volatile memory to modify the default conditions.
The very REASON the dealership disconnects the battery is to make it fall back to "default conditions". Oftentimes, that will make a problem go away long enough to let the vehicle go out of warantee before the problem (and the vehicle) comes back to them.
your question "how do you replace your battery when it dies?" is simple, just replace it. There is a time-delay before it 'forgets' its learning. Most vehicles give you about 10 minutes to replace a battery before it forgets.
(Many vehicles are much worse, if the battery is disconnected too long, the radio will not work any longer until a special code it programmed into it.)
To answer your last question " How do you replace your computer if that dies, " After replacement, it has to be PROGRAMMED based on the VIN (vehicle Identification Number) Again, this is all spelled out in the factory service manual. Purchasing a used computer from a scrapyard may be a VERY bad idea because of the VIN-unique base coding.
Not only is is POSSIBLE, it is FACT that todays automobiles are very sophisticated and do, in-fact "learn" and remember specific conditions so they can be recalled again later.
Unless you have some information that contradicts the factory service manual perhaps you should not laugh so loudly. In the future, please refrain from calling people "wrong" without fist knowing the facts yourself.
Might I suggest that you procure a factory service manual and technically READ it. (meaning -- take notes as if there will be a test later)
Ben (mopar67) and others continue to read and contribute to the Dakota Forum. Dusty (dustyk) is another reliable resource and seems to have a great deal of "hands on" field related experience in addition to general intelligence and knowledge. Unfortunately, I cannot be a resource in this matter, but if you run into a hydraulic/electric/mechanical problem with a crane (friction and/or hydraulic) rough terrain forklift, log handler/skidder, knuckle boom loader or truck mounted aerial platform, try me on. Diesel queries cheerfully handled, as long as they don't involve on board computers.
Bookitty
SInce you are a diesel-guy, does that mean we can now discuss my IQ? (Injection Quantity)
Did you know that my other (wifes) vehicle is a diesel? I just LLOOVVEE the better than 50 MPG. 700 miles per tank of fuel is not unusual. There is not another vehicle available at any dealership in the USA that can get >50 mpg all day long at hyway speeds with the AC on. The 10,000 mile oil change interval means low maintenance costs.
Speaking of research, .... check out "Mobil1 Truck&SUV" . It is essentually "Mobil Delvac1" in a differernt package. I run it in my 4.7L Dakota. The ol' sludge issue has all but disaperead while running this oil.
IN '90 I bought the wife a new Geo Metro LSI (all bells and whistles), and after 240,000+ miles, w/AC on, it still got 50 miles a gallon, was very maintenance effecient, and had no major problems.
It wasn't real big nor a zoom rocket, but, it was as roomy as many of today's and quick enough to be very surprising to any who rode in it.
With all the stats and realities of a finite fuel source (oil) being what they are, it is time for manufacuturers to step up to the plate and put all available fuel effeciency on the road and out of the tombs.
I am and have been completely pleased with both my quad cab dakotas, except for the fuel ineffeciency. I have seen and heard a lot of hair-splitting about this truck or that truck in being more or less fuel effecient. But, all I see are very, very small differences in any of them. Certainly not enough to corrupt ones wants and needs in a truck.
The new '05 Dakota is a VERY different vehicle than its ancestors. I have chosen Dodge trucks since my '49 Dodge. I have had a couple others mixed in there in the last few decades, but never been as overall satisfied as with the Dodges.
I get a truck for using. I'm afraid I'm not much 'fashion statement' oriented.
When Dakotas first came out in quad cab, and I saw my first (the lady who was fueling let me look inside/outside/under) one, it was only a matter of time.
All the rhetoric about the Colorados, Explorers, etc being this or that, as far as I'm concerned is just that.
My '01 quad was everything I had hoped, and more. The only reason I got an '05 quad is because of the changes I researched and the reasoning behind those changes. The Dakota quad cab is a keeper design for my purpose and intent.
I travel about 50 miles to my dealer. And, it generally boggles my mind to hear of many things told about dealers in forums. My dealer has never been anything less than actually enjoyable. But then, having owned businesses myself for the last 30+ years, I do not have unreasonable expectations from any business.
We had a power steering problem with the PT and it took 4 trips to finally get it right. They were always apologetic, and have not allowed me to pay for oil changes for it during the months we were working on the problem. If there has been any way possible, they would fix a problem 'under warranty'.
I change a lot of my own oil, but to have them do a bumper to bumper check and change the oil for about 20 bucks, is well worth it, and it gives me opportunity to check out what's new on the lot.
It's good business. I'm not going to squabble on price on a vehicle (much), knowing I'll be covered happily if there is any problem and even if there's not a real problem.
Certainly, over the years, I have sent business their way, as well.
There are no perfect vehicles. But, the quad cab dakota is about as close to it as possible for my wants and needs. Roomy inside and out, enough power, well built, sharp enough looking (as far as I'm concerned), dependable and durable.
Of course, as I have mentioned in this forum before, I do not care much for 'extras'.
As far as I'm concerned, they are 'extra' things to go wrong.
Bruce, to tag onto your mileage story on diesel powered automobiles;
Some years ago I had a diesel powered VW Rabbit. On a trip home from Richmond, VA to Langhorne, PA (approximately 250 miles) I tried this experiment. I left Richmond at 3:00 AM so that I could attend a school function for one of my sons. I inflated the tires to 50PSI and kept the vehicle @ 55 MPH for the entire trip.
I actually got 50 MPG on that trip. It was cool and slightly damp. And, that was a hybrid engine, not a "drawing board" diesel. The car was so underpowered, that if the brakes failed, all you had to do was engage the A/C.
You may or may not know this, but Rudolph Diesel committed suicide by jumping off of an ocean liner. After failed experiments using powdered coal and finally using coal oil (kerosene), he felt that the diesel engine was not reliable and that he was a failure.
Bookitty
Book, you finally got me to laugh today. That was great!!
Bests,
Dusty
Thanks,
Lenny