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Dodge Dakota - FAQs



  • victxvictx Posts: 108
    Check out my write-up on my stereo install for my '01 Quad.
  • Hey everyone,
    I own a 00' Quad Cab 4.7 and all the good stuff!
    I was wondering if anyone has any idea how to hard wire an radar detector? Oh, and on a side note, I love this truck!!
    Thank you to anyone who can help
  • victxvictx Posts: 108
    Dodge boy
    I hardwired my Valentine detector as soon as I got my truck. Take off the A-pillar cover (take the screws out on the driver-assist handle). Then you can drop your wire down that corner of the dash and find a good power supply. I tucked the wire above the headliner over toward the rear view mirror and just clipped my detector on the edge of the headliner.
  • Thanks Victx, I'll give it a try!
  • Those of you who have 2001's already was there an option for having a switch to turn off the front passenger air bag?

    Doesn't seem to be one in the 2000's and there are no 2001's on the lot here yet.

    Thanks for your help!
  • Anyone ever looked into pulling a fifth wheel trailer with a Quad Cab? I know it has enough power for the trailer I have and there seems to be enough distance between the hitch and the cab so you can turn the wheel all the away going forward without the two making contact. I do realize I would have a problem backing up in a tight spot. Do already have a sliding hitch in my old Dakota.

    Just wondered if anyone checked any rules or regulations about this type of thing.
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Don, the reason for air bag defeat switches, emerged for vehicles where the rear seat (if there was one) was not suitable for fastening a child's car seat. In this case, the seat would have to be utilized in the front seat, and thus the switch was installed to prevent air bag related injuries (or worse) to a child being transported. The Quad come with anchoring devices on the rear seat for 2001 models, and they are available at no charge via the dealer on 2000 models. Therefore it would be imprudent to install one in a four door vehicle with a regular rear seat.

  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    made some measurments on mine for a rv 5th and i would have to get a sliding hitch in the bed so i can have better manuvering in tight spots and lock it in when on the highway

    good question, first time ive seen that one on here

  • I have a 2000 Quad which is now in the shop having the heatercore replaced I was curious if this is a fluke or a problem with Dodge
  • bookittybookitty Posts: 1,303
    Lee, I have participated in the general forum, and this particular forum since inception, and cannot remember any posts pertaining to losing a heater core. That is not to say it never happened, but if it was posted I cannot remember it. Sometimes if you ask the service manager at the dealership, and if he/she is an honest person they will tell you that it is or is not a persistent problem. I don't think that it is.

  • I just bought a '00 Club Cab auto/2wd with the v6. I am extrememly unhappy with the way it idles. It vibrates the whole truck with the way it idles. I can't believe this is normal. I've taken it in three times now with the same complaint. Service manager says that's "normal" for the magnum engine. I know I shoulda had a V8! I've already written DaimlerChrysler, but I would appreciate any thoughts, suggestions, similar experiences, etc anyone may have. I've owned many vehicles in my life and many with a V6 and none of them have run like this. I can't believe Dodge would market an engine like this. I'm ready to go trade it in right now....thanks...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (fl_actor) Your engine is based on a 1960s design. It is the old 318 V8 with two cylinders lopped off. I suspect it does not contain counter-rotating balancers within the block like more modern engines have. You cannot compare it to any engine designed within the last 20 years.

    It is known to be inefficient and it actually is rated with WORSE MPG than the 4.7L V8 HEMI which is perhaps the smoothest engine I have ever encountered.

    You asked for thoughts/suggestions...

    Ask to test drive some other similarly - equipped rigs on the dealers lot. Try to ascertain if your rig is unusual or "normal" as the dealer would have you believe.

    I have heard of a mis-firing injector causing the V6 to be rougher than it should be. I read it in one of the Edmunds forums recently.

    Good luck...
  • hennehenne Posts: 407
    bpeebles is correct, my neighber has the v-6 and his is smooth running. drive some other v-6 dakotas at your dealer and show him the typical dodge excuse wont work this time. "they all sound like that" NOT!
  • I did drive a '01 with the V6 and it seemed to be the same. However my gas mileage is so bad (14.7 MPG on last fillup) the injector idea might be something to check.
  • My 01, QC, V-6, manual trans., has approx. 150 miles on it. When idling, the gear shift lever vibrates but other than that I don't feel or see anything out of the ordinary.
    However, I will keep an eye on this and report back.
  • I expect normal vibration, I realize the durn thing ain't a Rolls Royce. What this feels like is a miss. Some times its worse than others. I think it's a sensor or a wire or timing or something like that. These motors aren't like when I was a teenager motor head, I'll tell ya that.... Ahhhh, the good old days, 33.9/gal regular gas!

    Anyway, I did drive the truck before buying, but that's exactly what I did, was DRIVE it. Not much time at idle on the test drive. It's extremely annoying. I'll give the additive a shot, but the truck only has 2800 miles now. It shouldn'\t be anything like that. I'm still open for suggestions/similar experiences.....Thanks folks...
  • i'd always thought the 5.9 was the king of towing however per dodge's latest 01 web site go to power section then towing scroll and will see notation. 4.7 l reg cab 4x2 6700lbs wow. that dating the 5.9. how can a engine with less torque and horsepower tow more?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I suspect that the 4.7 is underrated to bigin with. Its power delivery is very different from the ol 5.9. There have been several reports that the 4.7 really SHINES during towing.
  • I am still waiting to see what response I get to just changing muffler using the factory tail pipe.I realise I would have to remove tail pipe to make muffler exchange and then reinstall it when done with muffler. I am looking for something with a deep mellow tone.Thanks-all
  • ohc_babyohc_baby Posts: 116
    A quick comment to the rough idles in the V-6 - it IS internally counterbalanced, and twice for good measure (not really, but it does have 2 counterbalance shafts) just the same as the 318 and 360. If it shakes, then it's something else. They're really quite smooth for a V6.
    As far as heater cores go, they seem to be streaky. on the DML ( a couple of members have had real problems with the cores, losing 2 or 3 in the truck's life so far. The concensus has been that the plastic cores are not reinstalled carefully. If it gives you problems afterward, discuss an aluminum core and see if your dealer will go for it. It's a HUGE pain in the rear to swap a core, and they might be willing to put in an aluminum unit to get you out of their hair after one or two fudged installs.

    BTW, check out the DML, it's a wonderful resource and a lot of fun
  • cmickcmick Posts: 4
    themacguy is right about the oil filters. I have a '00 club cab slt with the 4.7 and 4 wheel drive. I used to use nothing but Fram but they're not what they used to be. The mobil 1 is a bit more expensive (about $9 at autozone) but I love my truck and I think it's worth it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    (moparpower1) Check out the SPINTECH muffler. It uses a new technology to take the 'sting' out of the exhaust note while keeping the SOUND.
  • While trying to figure out why the "Homelink" garage door opener built-in to my 2001 Dakota would only work from 30 feet away, I submitted a request for info via the Johnson Controls
    web site at They responded via e-mail with the suggestions below. I only needed to do #1 and #4 and my range increased to about 150 feet.

    1. Put a new battery in your hand-held remote. Training the HomeLink takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the hand-held remote, it does help pick up a better train and increases the range.

    2. Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink.

    3. Try a second remote with new batteries.

    4. Straighten the antenna wire that hangs down from the garage door opener motorhead.

    5. Park your vehicle outside of the garage during programming (make sure it is not under the garage door).

    6. Try programming all 3 HomeLink buttons- they are all on different channels.
  • The instructions on pages 15-16 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual for disabling the horn chirp are incorrect because the button names are wrong. (I think the 2000 manual has the same error.)

    Here are the corrected instructions for turning the horn chirp on and off (the words in green/bold are the ones which need to be changed in the manual):

    1. Place the key in ignition and turn the key to the ON position (donot start the engine).
    2. Press and hold the LOCK button on the transmitter for four to ten seconds.
    3. While the LOCK button is pressed, press the PANIC button on the transmitter and then release both buttons.
    4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed.

    (To give credit where it's due, I must admit that I got these horn chirp instructions from an archived post on the DML.)
  • The instructions on pages 16 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual for "Programming Additional Transmitters" are incorrect. (I think the 2000 manual has the same error.)

    About two-thirds of the way through the instructions, the sentence in the manual which (incorrectly) says...

    "Within thirty seconds, press and release the lock OR unlock button on all transmitters intended for use with this vehicle except the transmitter used to start the programming mode."

    ...should say...

    "Within thirty seconds, press and release the lock AND unlock buttons SIMULTANEOUSLY on all transmitters intended for use with this vehicle except the transmitter used to start the programming mode."

    (I figured this out myself the hard way after I accidentally deprogrammed one of my remotes while trying to discover the correct way to disable the horn chirp.)
  • victxvictx Posts: 108
    AWESOME, just did it and it work. Thanks skylerk. Isn't the internet just great. I went to the dealer several times and they couldn't figure it out.
  • Thanks the keyless door lock honk fix worked, now I need help with the all four door unlock on the first press on remote fix. Anybody eles have this problem.
  • 2nddak2nddak Posts: 44
    Skyler, and others,

    I had the Farm Bureau just call the "source sequence" number into my dealer since time was short and they accepted that. I never got the $500 voucher to present to the dealer. I assume that the number is what they need to get their cash out of the deal.

  • victxvictx Posts: 108
    I didn't do any work for my Farm Bureau discount. My dealer asked for a copy of my FB membership card and that's all, they took care of the rest. BTW, Texas Farm Bureau.

    I got my dealer through autobytel and I was happy with their off of $500 over invoice, so there was no price negotiation. I ordered my truck, so I guess they had plenty of time for them to get the paperwork done.
  • zonkzonk Posts: 208
    I tried the new procedure. Never could get the chime indicating the change in the remote lock. How long do you press the panic switch?
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