Subaru Crew - Modifications II

hypov

I've got the SPT 20mm, ala bluesubie , with little known name, name I forgot, for endlinks and it hasn't squeeked or squawked the last 3 yrs. or so.

However, there's this "thud" I am hearing more frequently went going over bumps or during turns.

-Dave

masan

How do these two compare: the Falken Ziex 512 and the Yokohama Avid H4/V4? Are they similar? Does anyone have experience with both?

I ordered OEM (for the XS, I guess) Subaru alloy wheels for my '03 X. Now for the tire purchase.

Mine never goes off road.

bluesubie

However, there's this "thud" I am hearing more frequently went going over bumps or during turns.

Same here. I'm getting a clunk and I think it might be the STi RSB that's on my FXT. It's only on right turns. For the longest time I've been making sure that everything is secure in the back and I can't find anything loose.

I checked that everything is tightened down properly and it is. It actually sounds like it's inside of the cargo area. I'm wondering if it's the strut tops instead? :confuse:

masan - No experience from either but from what I read, the 512's are better for performance and the Avids are quieter and longer wearing.

-Dennis

ateixeira

Never driven on those Yokos. I had some other Yokos on my Escort GT a while back, and they were OK, but I don't recall liking them as much as I like my Falkens.

-juice

hypov

Hmmm... right turn for me too and sounds inside also.
I've checked everything I could think of too, and everything is tighten.

-Dave

bluesubie

Let me know when your in my area. You could ride in my cargo area to pinpoint the location. Sound like a plan?

-Dennis

dstew1

I'm looking for advice on how to prepare for winter weather in my new FXT.

In Central Arkansas this is not near the major concern it is in colder areas, however we generally have several snowfalls per winter. Those are not really my concern however, assuming the new Yokos will stand up to a few inches of plain snow. We don't see nearly enough of the white stuff to warrant the extra cost/hassle of spare snow tires.

My concern is that - given our moderate climate - every couple of years we'll see a major icestorm. Usually a nice solid layer of sleet followed by snow that gradually melts and refreezes in the following days because we don't have enough plows/sand trucks to handle the load. Last xmas the extremely dangerous road conditions lasted for 4-5 days. The melting and refreezing turns much of the city into a veritable skating rink - stopping is a nightmare, especially given we are a hilly city. If I must absolutely get out and drive (likely, considering I work in a hospital), would chains/cables help my FXT in such a situation? What should I look for in a good set of cables? I've never used them before, but after several close calls last winter I would like to have more of a fighting chance with my new car.

(FWIW, I lived in Boston for several years and know that hearing a southerner worry about winter driving seems quite laughable - then again, you all have efficient and well equipped road crews, and we simply don't budget for that. :P )

Doug

ateixeira

Try the lower-profile Z chains. I don't think there is clearance for regular chains.

-juice

barriostkd

Thanks for the input & suggestions. I brought it back to the shop where I had the sway bars installed and they fixed the problem. Basically, what they did is wrap teflon on the area where the bushings were squeaking. They said that was better than applying grease because teflon doesn't breakdown like grease.

I also noticed that there were some slight damage (scratches) on the endlink on the left side, but not on the right. So I guess it was grinding or hitting when I took right turns, but not the other way around.

JB

bluesubie

Doug - When you're ready to upgrade to better tires, most likely whatever you get will have improved snow handling over the Geolanders.

JB - I wonder if the teflon tape would interfere with the swaybar action? That's the first that I have heard of using tape.

-Dennis

dstew1

Dennis - I generally do about 12k miles/year, so unless I'm just really desparate to replace the Geos early, say at around 15k miles before next winter, it will be a couple of years before I toss 'em. I saw some winter performance tires on tire rack's website, but I'm assuming those would be a little too specialized for 99% of the conditions I see year-round.

Juice - thanks for the suggestion, the Z-Chains look like a good alternative to traditional chains. Anyone here have experience with these?

ateixeira

http://www.vulcantire.com/chainz6_c.htm

I bought my last set of tires from Vulcan Tires. That's their info on them. Says they only need 1/4" clearance.

-juice

hypov

Sounds like a plan

You can ride in my cargo area and find mine

BTW, spoke too soon. I think my endlinks are starting to squeak

-Dave

fibber2

Dennis,

Actually, I think teflon tape is an extremely novel idea. I would just wonder if it wouldn't 'walk out' over time. I wonder if they are using plumbers style thread sealing tape, or something industrial. In our lab we have thicker teflon tape with adhesive on one side to cut friction in some polishing operations.

I don't think it would have any detrimental effect at all. The ends are tied to the lower control arms. The middle is supported and held rigidly in one direction by the bushings to aid in lateral placement. The less 'give' they have, the better. But the bushings should allow the bar to rotate freely, as it is the twisting action within the bar left to right that limits how much one side moves relative to the other. If it was held within the bushing with a resistance to motion, I think it would act as a spring (think torsion bar suspension), and would slow reaction recovery (undesireable).

Steve

bluesubie

Now I'm getting a squeak on the OB only 6 months after I sprayed the bushings with lithium grease. The last time it was at the dealer, they used silicone paste on the front bushings. They said it stays on longer that grease.

Maybe I'll try tape or look for some silicone paste, or just upgrade the bushings.

-Dennis

rangner

Hey does anybody know about gutting the whole plastic monstrosity and relacing it with a cone type filter on a 2000 Outback?

I saw something like it in the SPT catalog high airflow air intake or something like that but that was for an impreza. I'd really like to find an easier way to check the front diffy fluid this seems like it could work.

Eric

stickguy

I'm looking into a new ('06) Legacy 2.5i, and was wondering what the experts think about the Sti short throw shifter? I played with a GT in the showroom, and it seemed nice. Just want some feedback as to the plus and minus to the upgrade.

if nothing else, the lever/knob/boot on the GT looked 100x better than the basic black rubber monstrosity on the base car, expecially with the taupe interior.

Anyway, I assume the throws are shorter (duh on me), but does it take more effort? Is it easier or harder to find the right gear?

I'm a stick pro, but I will be teaching my son on it in a few years, so don't want to shoot myself in the foot.

ateixeira

Be prepared for more intake noise. I removed my "snorkus", as we used to call it, and you get a little hum at idle plus more intake noise at full throttle.

I actually put an STi shifter in my '98 Forester. The throws are shorter, but yes, you trade off some leverage so you do need more force. The stick shift itself does away with a rubber-insulating layer in my case, so there was less play and it felt a little less rubbery.

The pic below shows a stock '98 Forester shifter and an STi shifter for an Impreza. Note it's 1" shorter, but that's because it's not really meant for a Forester.

-juice

stickguy

I might want to try one first. I don't think it will matter to me (the extra force), and my wife doesn't usually drive the car. I do like the idea of a tighter, less rubbery shift. Pretty much sounds more like a RWD feel (I miss that not having my Miata anymore).

My son when the time comes should be able to deal with it. He pitches, so this shouldn't kill him!

fibber2

Eric,

I bet some poor engineer spent the best years of his life designing that arcane path from the front of the grill to the throttle plate. It would certainly be cheaper for SoA (and every mfgr, for that matter) to ditch him and his expensive to produce and install design and simply substitute a cone, right??

I am sure that the makers of simple aftermarket cones can show some modest peak HP gains under ideal conditions on a dyno. But that is not how we drive....

Why all of those pertuberances, hanging cylinders and oddball boxes? Powertrain engineers map engine performance over a wide range of loads and throttle positions. Every engine experiences dead spots - when the moving column of air in the intake tract hits some odd resonance and 'stalls'. The fuel/air mix gets thrown out off due to the sudden change in relative pressure, and the motor bogs. That complex intake runner addresses this by providing 'reservoirs', each tuned to counteract a particular problem. So it aids driveability and emissions. And untimately low emissions should factor into optimum mpg.

If you are drag racing, go with minimum path length. If you drive like 99% of us, you are probably better off sticking with the clutter. I do agree, though, that the placement of the front diffy dip stick is near impossible with everything in place.

Steve

rangner

Thanks for the insight, I guess it's kind of noisy with the snorkus on it and tends to get bogged down at low revs. I seem to remember that one time when I changed the air filter, I broke one of those plastic fingers off the box when I was taking it apart--maybe that's the noise. I don't know what the best thing to do is...

If I were to replace it, what brands/models should I consider?

Eric

paisan

You guys are funny. Most of those intakes are merely placebo effects. Dyno charts only show that there is 1-2hp gains in peak RPMs and actually losses as lower RPMs. Also most of those cone filters will suck in hot air that is coming over the radiator.

As for the STi shortshifter... It's my opinion that the STi short shifter w/linkage is the way to go. I have that on my legacy and it was night and day. The nice thing about the short shift linkage is that it doesn't shorten the stick itself that much, it only shortens the throws.

-mike

rangner

Always happy to amuse :P

paddyk

Paisan is right. I removed the stock intake on my Miata and noticed a drop in low end torque but an increase in intake noise (I liked the increase in noise).

Started autocrossing so had to put everything back to stock (I miss the intake noise). Not a big difference either way so save your money and stay stock.

dannyka

Hi all,

I just ordered a 2001 Forester S Prem. Basically, I asked only for the Security System upgrade and the auto-dimming mirror. I'd like to add a few more items myself and was planning on ordering them from Darlene after the Forester comes in. Am I getting in over my head on any of the following items? (I'm "skilled" enough that I've done basic maintenance as well as installed new stereo, speakers, amps, equalizer) Okay, here's the list: new headlights/foglights (thanks Ken, juice), vent filter, tweeter kit (or maybe new speakers), arm rest extension, diffy protector, and tailpipe cover. That's it to start. What do you think?

Thanks,
-Dan

sphp

I'm considering getting the dealer installed passive alarm on a new '06 forester, is it worth it or am I asking for problems... heard it may cause tech probs with the existing factory installed alarm? Does either the factory installed or the passive alarm have an engine cut off? Will the dealer installed alarm be covered under the manufacturer's warranty? Or affect it in any way? Thanks. :confuse:

beanboy

A huge grin on my face! Who would have thought a turbo 4 cylinder in a 3350 pound car could feel so powerful in the low to mid range!

Looking forward to the first winter rallycross...

-B
LGT wagon

orangelebaron

Subaru won't give me any technical support (no surprise there) on any procedure needed to remove/reinstall a front seat on a late model OB with side airbags.
I need to remove my driver's seat to see what I can do about altering the foam in the bolster. I want to take the leather seat cover off and shave some of the hard foam off the back end of the right bolster. It is killing me. I have a limp from it. Putting a seat cushion on doesn't help because it is already to narrow and high up....so I just want to do something about those bosters.
I don't want to do something wrong removing the seat and cause a problem with the side airbag. Do I just unplug it and that's all? or do I need to disconnect the battery?
Thanks!

paisan

and unbolt the seat. Fairly simple.

-mike

orangelebaron

You have an SVX? If you do...there was one at the Novack yard in Oceanside a couple of weeks ago. Body seemed OK.

cwbarrett

I really like my 2006 Legacy SE except the sound sytem sucks. I have to do something. Is it just the speakers? From the looks of the faceplate replacing the components is not an option. Any ideas? Thanks

ateixeira

If you have auto climate control you are stuck with the head unit. I think the SE has that, right?

Speakers should make a difference, even the "Premium Sound" speakers I got aren't that great. The rears are not even 2-ways. This is on a '98 Forester.

-juice

stickguy

the limited has ACC, but the SE has the manual system found on the base car. I actually prefer it that way.

If I go through with my deal for an SE Legacy, I may splurge on a hardwire set up for my ipod. Might be worthwhile to replace the headunit at that time (if possible, and if it will match) since they would have to pull it out anyway.

More likely, I would get a plug hooked up to the factory unit (assuming it has an aux plug for a changer on th eback of the headunit), and spring for some new speakers, and maybe a small sub, at the same time.

cwbarrett

The legacy special edition does not have ACC. I still can't see how I could ever replace the head unit. I'm not an audiophile but this stock unit is below my tolerance level. Do you think I could simply get some higher end speakers installed from Circuit City or Best buy? I'm a little concerned about the kids they have employed being able to replace the speakers without tearing/ripping or damaging my new car.

rob_m

Does it have the factory sub-woofer? If not, I would certainly start there. The sub makes a huge difference in the sound, and dealer installation takes under an hour. Rob M.

bat1161

Has anyone seen anyplace selling the rear differential protector or a front skid plate that would fit the 06 OB? I'm planning on doing the 48hrs drive with Paisan and gang and I know Mike is talking about going through the Pine Barrens. I'd rather have the extra protection for the car.

Mark

ateixeira

On my Forester it was easy as cake, on the 02 Legacy only slightly harder. If you get a compatible stereo with the right harness it's pretty much plug and play.

I did find instructions on-line, though.

-juice

hondafriek

The best upgrade you can do to any system is to install quality speakers, the OEM speakers are really a bad joke,
you can also make a huge improvement with an amp preferably a four channel amp and finally like ROB offered even the small Subaru sub can make a real diiference although you can get aftermarket powered subs for less money.

And amps and subs are not only for the idiots who drive around listening to nothing but booming base they are in the first place ways of improving your sound system.

Cheers Pat.

hondafriek

Won't make the chat tonight, so busy running I am like a chicken with it's head cut off.

Cheers Pat.

blanikl33

I purchased the auto-dimming mirror for installation in my '06 2.5i, but can't seem to find the wire in the headliner. I know it's got to be there somewhere, but certainly not anyplace I've seen. Has anybody had the same experience? Many thanks.

hondafriek

On My 01 GT Wagon the wire for the auto dim mirror was in the headliner I had to drop the interior light to get at it. I would imagine it is the same in the later models as well.

Cheers Pat.

rob_m

You need to remove the overhead light assembly. Pop out the light lens, remove the two phillips screws, and the wiring harness is right there. Good Luck! Rob M.

blanikl33

Thanks, gents. I'll give it a go, though on this car the overhead light is in the center of the headliner, not at the front as shown in the installation instructions for the mirror. I also noticed on the Subaru web site that the mirror isn't an option on this model. I'll let you know how things work out. All the best.

Scott

stickguy

Looked at a new Legacy today. If I get it, I want to add the homelink mirror and STi shifter (this is on a non-turbo 5 speed car).

Dealer quoted $280 for the mirror and $391 for the shifter, both installed prices.

For anyone with experience (or that hangs out on the boards where people know this stuff), are those reasonable prices, expecially for the shifter? I would prefer to have them installed before I get the car (warranty anc convenience reasons), and will pay a little for the benefit, but don't want to get too hosed on the deal.

I also want the arm rest extension, but that sounds like a good internet purchase/DIY install job. I can handle the 2 screws I think.

That euro piece sounds nice, if it does the same job and has extra storage.

stickguy

shoulda posted this over here (not in the Sti mods thread).

Anyway, Does anyone know if the standard radio (on an '06 SE) has an aux jack on the back? I'm considering buying one, and am wondering if I have any options to hardwire an ipod into the head unit, since I hate the way FM modulation works in my area.

I don't care about anything fancy (like having the radio control anything but volume), I really just want an Aux jack to plug into. If it is there, shouldn't be too hard to pull out the head unit, and fish the wire to someplace convenient. I assume there are kits that will plug right into the ipod and supply power, since there seems to ne an accessory for just about everything else.

kev_xt_owner

This particular forum seems the best one to post this question.

Previously there was some discussion about towing capacity for Foresters including the temperature of the transmission fluid and the lack of a temperature indicator for it.

Steve (fibber2) sent me some emails about it. At the time I thought I would post those emails but just didn't get around to doing so. He did say that he purchased an OBD II scanner that feeds into a computer. At the time he was learning the capabilities of the scanner/software to see what parameters it could report.

With all the introduction, my question is have others purchased OBD II computer scanners to track the performance of their vehicles? As an infrequent tower with my 2004 Forester XT, I, too, would like to be able to track some parameters not indicated on the instrument cluster like the transmission fluid temperature. Ideally I'd like to get one that reads OBD II codes and is CAN-ready for newer vehicles. [CAN=Controller Area Network]

My biggest problem is that Subarus aren't numerically populous and so finding a suitable scanner that I know will display a wide variety of information has been frustrating.

Kevin

subearu

I have a scanner from OBD-2.com. You purchase a cable (ISO for Subies, they also have CAN and the other interfases) and d/l the software from their site, installing it on a laptop computer. The beauty of this setup is that you can capture data (go out driving and let the software capture all the events), and then replay it later. Boost, MPG, MAF, lots of things all show up.

Works great on my '04 FXT and our '02 MPV (both ISO's).

-Brian

ateixeira

That price sounds high to me. I've installed a shifter on my Forester and it wasn't that hard, an hour or labor tops. Even at $85 per hour, plus maybe $100 for the shifter, it should not reach $391.

Are they changing the bushings or the linkage as well, or just the shifter itself? Maybe there is more to the kit on the Legacy.

I just ordered an OBDII scanner. Originally found it at NAPA, for $170, but then found it on-line for $105 from Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009RAX7/qid=1134579037/sr=8-3/ref=sr_8_xs_ap- _i2_xgl263/002-2412476-2700867?n=507846&s=automotive&v=glance

It's not here yet, though. I'm not sure if it can do what you want, but the guy at NAPA recommended it for scanning codes, and it supposedly works with my Miata and both our Subies.

-juice

locke2c

$391 installed for the entire shift linkage and lever is very possible since the kit is like $295 retail.

it's much more than a lever that is needed on anything besides an STi. the levers are a cheap and popular solution, I know, but the linkage is loose and sloppy-- designed for reducing NVH I presume, either that or churning butter. :P

is it a good value? I dunno, but the stock linkage is pretty nasty. not VW nasty, but a close second!

~Colin

ateixeira

Mine has the STI shift kit for the Impreza. The lever ended up being an inch short, since the Forester sits taller, but the linkage and bushings didn't look or feel any different (still rubber, not urethane).

Maybe that's changed, I dunno.

Here's a pic, STI vs. stock, just the lever. The Gold one is the STI, and yes, you give up a major rubber isolating layer.

-juice