By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
MY98 RS wheels yep that means GOLD
16x7 +53mm, 5x100 bolt circle
Wider than WRX rims, woohoo. I would rate them in *good* condition-- they are not perfect but besides minor marring from the stupid factory wheel weights they are in excellent condition. They have stick-on wheel weights now, and a set of 225/50-16 Kumho victoracer V700s with tread (what passes for it, at least) still showing on the inner half of the tire and tons of life left, although it would be smart to flip them on the rim sometime to wear them evenly.
I can provide pictures if someone is interested... Oh, and I can bead blast them for free to remove the gold paint if someone can't live with gold even on an autocross / track day rim. To do a perfect job I'd have to remove the tires, and you would be responsible for re-mounting. After bead blasting they will have a very slightly rough surface and will be really shiny, as long as you polish them with meguiar's chrome polish every so often.
-Colin
Bikes aren't dangerous, punk riders and inattentive folks in cars are though. Then again there's no way I'd ride much if I had to deal with DC or SF traffic.
A $10,000 sportbike might seem excessive to some, but you can't go faster on anything that a mere mortal would ever own. But it's not really about the speed since you wouldn't use that much very often unless you like a lot of tickets (yes officer, I was going 20 over but that was only 2nd gear!). The other allure is that I started riding dirtbikes at age 5 and rode a lot until I was a teen. I've never really put time into streetbikes before and I really like it! Miata might mean 'one with the horse' but it describes a bike a lot better than a roadster. :-D
I do respect my mortality though and exercise a healthy degree of caution. I'm also highly insured. ;-)
-Colin
I may do the same, but probably later in life, when the kids go to college.
Then again, the Miata is my way of having fun without going too crazy.
-juice
Back to Subaru mods... I can't believe the interest my cylinder heads. I have a deal all but completely closed with a guy to drive down from Wisconsin (750mi one way) to do the swap in about a month! Wow.
-Colin
Glad you found a buyer for the cams. 750 miles? He must really want 'em.
-juice
This guy must be, he has a 2001 2.5RS with <4000 miles on the clock!
-Colin
-juice
-Colin
I posted some info on i-club and it was a vendor named Mike Exeter who came to the rescue. He responded that he had access and 3 days after I ordered ...they were at my door. Took about 1/2 to install and I am highly pleased with the results.
At this point I need to pass kudos to Mike and to those of you unhappy with the water dripping issue...Mike has an answer.
I can empathize with the "knife to a gunfight" thing. That would be me in rallycross, getting lumped into the modified class because of a tower brace, bigger sway bar, and end links. No Chance.
There was a thread on i Club recently with a part number, was that you?
-juice
Cool. How's the windnoise with those on? Pics, yes pics would be good!
Ken
Could have been my input with the part #. I've been thrashing around with this for about a year with virtually no help. Good news is they are available and at this point I would tell you they look good/fit good.
-Colin
Also, has anyone added fender mounted turn signal repeaters? If so, were they the Subaru OEM units that are used in Japan/Europe/etc. or were they after-market?
TIA
--'rocco
-Frank P.
Regards,
Frank
He is the the parts guy at Exeter Subaru in N.H. The best way to contact him is by phone 1-877-782-2789. Visors cost $125/set shipped.
Hope this helps..I am very pleased with mine considering all the negative comments I've heard. Moreover they were easy to put on and look like they should have always been there.
Have a good day big guy....
Thanks again, you have made my day!
Regards,
Frank
--'rocco
Colin: just saw my Ducati buddy on Friday. His is an entry-level 600, and he's already longing for a 962. Power is addictive. He's already done the intake and exhaust, too.
-juice
Thanks in advance.
Luck11
Good ol' Pat Dubois. I miss him. (and you luck11; you're not as active as you used to be.)
Unfortunately, the inability to search post content (not just titles) is crippling. My technique with the old site was to list all posts and use the browser's find to search one big post. As it stands, I'm afraid the archive content is useless. All that knowledge flushed down the toilet. What a shame.
I wonder how many members have stopped posting here (or spend less time here) because, with the death of the search function, Edmunds has become a less effective place to share information. Edmunds seems to have devolved from a great bulletin board where information can be shared (and searched) to a temporal chat.
..Mike
..Mike
-mike
mike@iace.com
-juice
-mike
Thans, B.Hatfield
I almost never to any electrical work on my cars, though, so I guess I can't help much.
-juice
-mike
juice - I've never heard that about the front outlet. Mine definately gets a huge workout daily and more on trips. Sometimes I use a dual adapter in the front. Before my 3/36 expired, I had to get the front one tightened because it was loose.
Dennis
But my notebook didn't like that outlet - it was OK while driving along, but turning the ignition on (after I had stopped) caused a power spike and crashed the computer in the middle of a DVD movie.
-juice
-mike
Now I know, so I run on battery and only charge it while driving along.
-juice
-mike
Ironically, they have all kind of photos of cars in their manual, even a cop car. It's basically a DC power adaptor.
Could just be a poor quality product. I should try the rear outlet to see if the same thing happens.
Still, your suggestion to get power straight from the battery is a good idea. Just be sure to have some type of fuse in the system.
-juice
To add one on to a vehicle where it was not designed in can be risky if you try to piggy back on another circuit. The factory outlet can carry up to 20A which is pretty hefty. To add that current (potential) to a circuit with wires not designed to carry it can be disastrous. You could probably find one but I wouldn't risk it.
I agree with paisan. The best way (safest) to do this (I have done this in other vehicles) is to run a power line uninterrupted from the battery, making it unswitched, or "always available".
The 2 most important things are that the fuse has to be as close to the battery as possible, to protect the whole circuit. You don't want several feet or even inches of unfused potential available for accidents like chaffing and shorting. This is how electrical fires start in do-it-yourself projects.
The second thing is the gauge of the wire used. I don't know what you plan to plug in, but for "normal" use, just because of the distance, I wouldn't use anything smaller (physical size) than 10 gauge. 8 would be better... smaller gauge is larger wire, better electrically but harder to route. Everything is a compromise.
The factory fuse is 20A and that sounds right to me. Make sure you use stranded wire, protect it with some of that black plastic spiral sheath (Home Depot), and route it carefully. Make sure the outlet you use is not lightweight, like the aftermarket cigarette lighter outlets, but rather something more HD like the factory one. That would be a good choice. Good luck.
Regards,
Frank
-mike
Ross
Emulating Cyclops,
-wdb
The current capability is determined by the material and its mass, specifically its cross-section diameter (assume round). Those thin spots can't carry the current of the rest of the wire, creating a weak link (goodbye!).
This in essence is what a fusible link is, a section of the circuit with a lower current carrying capability than the rest of the circuit. They do it with different materials and/or gauge of wire. These are designed to "blow" first thus protecting the circuit. We don't want any of these where not designed-in.
Stranded wire is designed to flex and bend. Its current capability is the same no matter what position it is used in. They would have made stranded wire first if they had known how.
Regards,
Frank
Ross
bit
-mike
-juice
-juice
http://pdubois.tripod.com/
which houses the schematics for the intermittent wiper. My brother-in-law is good at this stuff...so he said he would put the circuit together for me.
Yes, used to be more active prior to my 11 hour work days, building a new house and a 2 1/2 year old son that keeps me extremely busy. However, I still take some time to lurk through the discussions every now and then. The knowledge here continues to blow me away. Again, thanks a bunch.
If you've got a digital camera and the time, please take photos of your b-i-l's handiwork; I'm sure juice would like to add them to his site.
Glad you're enjoying your little boy -- yes, they are a lot of work. Children are just great. Thanks for the update.
Please check in and let us know how the "full custom"
..Mike
..Mike
I don't really mind the lost $20 because I look at it as education. If and when I do try other bulbs I'll let y'all know.
BTW, those free-spinnining thingies that looked like they should be headlight aiming adjusters WERE adjusters, covered by a thingie to prevent adjustment. I pried them off :-)
Cheers,
-wdb
-Colin