Subaru Crew - Modifications II

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Just grease it up after you wash it, else it'll squeek like crazy.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    ....but I think this would look pretty kewl on my silver BD:


    http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=227158

  • maverick1017maverick1017 Member Posts: 212
    Bit:

    Not many trade offs, the lights don't draw any more amps from the alternators than any other accessory. depending on the size and mounting location of the lights there might be a reduction of airflow to the radiator, but definitely not enough to cause problems.

    I have PIAA 520's mounted on top of the front bumper on my 98 Forester, man, those are bright!! I use them sparingly. As for manufactures, I would go with a quality one, such as PIAA, PILOT, HELLA, etc. But don't buy driving lights from a regular auto parts store (pepboys, autozone, etc) they generatly low end models that will not deliver the performance that you would expect. Go to an aftermaket specialist, you will paymore, but then you get what you pay for.

    I do know for certain that in terms of ease of installation, PIAA can't be beat, very simple, took me no more than half an hour to do it. I have installed Hellas and they are a pain to do, wires everywhere (some of them not long enough). The only tricky part is splicing into the headlight/parkinglight wires for power, if you choose to go this route, not much room or factory wire length to work with.

    I would recommend that you choose a light with a "driving" beam pattern as opposed to a "pencil" beam pattern. The former illuminates at a wider angle. The latter will illuminate further, but with a much narrower spread, as the name suggest, like a pencil, straight and narrow.

    If you are doing the install yourself, please take the pain staking time to aim the lights properly, it will give you better performance from the lights and keep on comming traffic from high beaming you (just a thought).

    Much luck.

    Mike
  • jmac94jmac94 Member Posts: 7
    I'm interested in installing the electrochromic mirror in my car. My question is, has anyone installed one of these mirrors themselves, and if so, how difficult was it? I have a 2002 Impreza 2.5RS and am wondering if the car is pre-wired for the mirror (I'm pretty sure it was an option on the 2002 2.5RS). I don't want to pay the service dept. $75 to attach the mirror and plug it in. Thanks.

    Joe
  • eps105eps105 Member Posts: 216
    Joe,

    If Subaru offers the Electrochromatic Mirror with Compass as a optional accessory for the '02 Impreza, then it is likely prewired, as the '01-'02 Forester supposedly was. (My guess is that the harness is tucked into the headliner, just behind the mirror.)

    Even if it is not prewired, if you are semi-handy and it actually comes with instructions, you should be able to put it in yourself in 30-60 minutes or so.

    I should know - I bought the identical aftermarket mirror from Donnely Electronics that has the compass AND an outside temperature display for my old '99 Forester. This is the mirror that was advertised in Motor Trend just about every month. Subaru uses Donnely as the OEM and had them design one without the thermometer.

    The main wire I was able to easily tuck into the headliner without removing it (thank goodness!). I then removed the A-piller cover (it just pulls off with a strong tug on the Forester) and fed the wire down behind the dashboard (near the left footrest).

    I then used the pinout diagram in my owners manual to tap into the 12V igition-on power line for the security system, but the Subaru OEM one you're buying likely has specific instruction where to attach the wire.

    The bulk of the work was running the thermocouple through the firewall to the front of the car, but since the Subaru OEM doesn't have that, you don't even have to deal with it.

    I LOVE this mirror. It is definitely worth the money.

    Elliot
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Hey everybody. Was wondering if somebody had experience putting cold air in OB or Legacy GT 96-99. I have 98 Legacy GT wagon and I've been thinking about putting cold air intake in.
    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Just make sure it is getting cold air. A lot of the systems out there will put a cone filter in the engine compartment, this sucks in HOT air and basically negates (IMHO) any gains of a free-er flowing intake.

    -mike
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    I know thee well..... ;'))

    you have a couple of hurdles:

    1) the Phase I DOHC EJ25 has a Mass Air Flow sensor. More accurate and therefore a better performance choice, it is still more fragile than later MAP equipped systems. Isolation from vibration and good filtering are critical to this part's long-term survival.

    2) Phase I engines also need that torque chamber (the big plastic box on the intake plenum). this is a reservoir of pre-filtered air that avoids starvarion problems under wide open throttle inputs. I think Colin will back me up on this..... And most cone filter type CAI systems ditch this part.

    3) cold air from where exactly? Us GT guys don't have the Impreza RS boy-racer hood vents that can be made functional to help the traditional cone filters get to cold air. And the scoop is too far aft.

    I've just taken out the snorkus from the right fender well and let the airbox draw from the fender-well. You could also go with a drop in filter like K&N or AMsoil, but I remain skeptical about their usefulness. Others here are true believers and may come up with the data to convince you otherwise. but with that MAF in there, I dunno.

    hope that helps, from a BD GT owner that loved the sound of his CAI but didn't like getting hung out to dry every time he stomped on it.... :')
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the MAF sensor used on the 96-99 (99 US models) DOHC 2.5L was very robust. only the Japanese-made '99 models had a fragile MAF sensor, the SOHC 2.5L we got and all the turbo 2.0L models for Europe and Asia had it too.

    a big airbox will help any engine during throttle transitions. it's actually the removal of the reversion tubes that hurt the MAF-equipped models, rebounding air and pressure causes a sensor misread. air that's already been metered moves over the sensor again...

    -Colin
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    thanks for the clarification. Are the reversion tubes the snorkus, the ridges just behind the MAF and the way to the torque box, or the appendix aft of the MAF?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    the ridges in the box itself are probably to dampen standing waves. the real anti-reversion comes from the tube that's facing the wrong way to do anything for forward flow.

    it's very large and noticable on a '99 SOHC.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Loosh: that's the type of thing that if I got hit in the back and insurance was paying for it, then fine, but to replace a perfectly good set of tail lights?

    If you yank the snorkus be ready for a bit more intake noise, though I like it.

    -juice
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    A friend of mine at work installed the whole thing on his Lexus ES300. He bought the Dragon Cold Air intake and the RAM AIR kit. Says it helps a lot.
    Check out this page:
    http://www.importstudio.bigstep.com/item.html?PRID=717680
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm surprised they even make one for the ES, you sure it wasn't an IS?

    -juice
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Nope, he has a 98 ES300. I'm looking at it right now from the window as a matter of fact, ;-)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    ES300 = Camary = Solara so I'm sure there is tons of aftermarket stuff just by sheer volume of vehicles sold.

    -mike
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I'm suprised they make intakes for the Camry and Solara!

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good point mike. The ES has more HP and runs on premium fuel, so I bet the compression and/or timing are a little different, but not much else.

    -juice
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Is it pretty easy to install a rear 12V terminal in GT wagon? Is it pre-wired?
  • mortpeaberrymortpeaberry Member Posts: 69
    in a word: NO! The engineers/accountants decided that the people that buy a GT, do not tow, or carry any thing in the back that needs to be strapped down or plugged in. On my '01, I needed to run a new power wire (tapped off the inside of the fuse box) to the back of the car (under all trim/carpet/padding) for the trailer light converter and an outlet. Sure was fun. I recommend that some one who wants the GT & to tow with it, special order it that way from factory.
    steve-v
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Jimmy-
    The sound gets better once the speakers and unit aquaints each other.
    I had reported my mild dissatisfaction of the sound after my swap (loss of mid-range tuning), but after awhile the sound quality was noticeable better than the original OEM unit.
    I must say, a swap very worthy of ones $$$ and time spent. :)

    -Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Way to go, you make us proud!

    Maybe use a piece of wood, painted flat black, to cover that hole? For now you could just put some black electrical taper over it.

    -juice
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    carbon fiber!! :)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Me and a few I-clubbers recently started a side business of installing parts on subies, upgrades and what not. Anyway think we set a record at least a personal one for changing out the springs.

    4 springs on a WRX from stock to Eibach Pro-springs no lift, just jacks, and not working like mad, 1:12min start to finish. 2 weeks ago took us 45 min to do 2 WRXs start to finish with 8 people in the dark and Rain.

    Anyone else have any interesting install times?

    -mike
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Hmmmm... I should have brought the lighting crew :D

    -Dave
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    About 5 weeks for my WRX radio :). Thanks for the nice comments, BTW. Back to this dang deadline.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    My first 6CD took about 3 hours IIRC. The next one took half the time, done carefully. But do anything repetitively and you'll get much better at it.

    -juice
  • oclvframeoclvframe Member Posts: 121
    I was playing around a couple of nights ago. Here is the outcome. LMK what you think...yeah or nay.


    http://www.gatech.edu/oit/oe/design/rob/suby/106-0614_IMG.JPG



    Also,


    http://www.gatech.edu/oit/oe/design/rob/suby/106-0613_IMG.JPG



    The reasoning behind this is simple....there is no chrome on this car except for the grille...so why not get rid of it.


    I can put it back stock (or I may get the new 2003 grille which I like much better!).


    -r

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thumbs way, way up. I happen to hate chrome, that being part of the reason I went with an L vs. the Forester S. I'd even be willing to pay a little more for a blacked-out-trim sport model.

    How did you do it? Or it that just a great PhotoChop job?

    -juice
  • pnwskierpnwskier Member Posts: 11
    There was a brief discussion a while back (#2711) on window visors. Just wanted to check in to see how these were working out for folks. I'm considering adding some on to my '02 Outback and have few concerns...

    Is the mounting method secure? I take my car through a 'touchless' car wash from time to time. The exit blower is strong enough to flex the hood deflector quite a bit. Think the side visors could hold up to this?

    How about wind noise? Any noticeable difference after adding these on?

    Thanks for any info. I've got a Bernese Mountain Dog that thinks my car is her second home. I'd like to be able to crack the windows for her in the rain and not end up with wet seats (or wet dog).

    Alan
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I have a '97 Legacy Wagon auto and would like to be able to throw a switch and cause the clutch that splits torque f/r to go to 50/50 when I want to. Anyone know the electrical inputs that cause the clutch to read wheelspin and what the settings would need to be to 'fool' it into reading wheelspin? Anyone ever try this before?

    I get into a lot of deep snow in winter, and would like to have this virtual center diff lock effect for those conditions. I have retrofit a diff lock switch on an SUV before so it could be used with the diff locked in high range as well and it was fairly simple. But..??

    Thanks in advance.

    IdahoDoug
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you figure it out, let me know, I'd love that on my 'new' '92 SVX.

    -mike
  • oclvframeoclvframe Member Posts: 121
    Juice,

    Thanks for the thumbs up.

    If I was smart, I'd a used photoshop. But instead, I removed the grille, masked off the black surrounding the chrome, masked off the Subaru emblum (sp?) and sprayed away with Krylon Semi-Flat black paint. I need to touch it up, though, I did it at night and did not get a good look at it till the next day....plus just this morning on the way in to work, something nailed me in the grille...I don't know what it was, but I am guessing it was a rock spit up by the car in front of me.

    BTW...it is not that I hate chrome...its just that there is no other chrome on the entire vehicle. If the vehicle was of a design that lent itself to having chrome (say a '67 190 SL) then I wouldn't have a problem with it.

    -r
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    The only "chrome" on my car is the grille surround too. Maybe I will give it a go. Then again, it works a little better anyway since the car is silver...
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Alan: what I heard was that they are not offered in the US because they were a bit too noisey for US buyer's tastes. YMMV.

    Did you sand the chrome before you painted? I'm surprised the paint stuck on so well.

    -juice
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Also there was a rumor which was never confirmed that on the 4EATs you could put it in "1" and it would distribute power 50/50 but that was never confirmed.

    -mike
  • oclvframeoclvframe Member Posts: 121
    I did not sand the chrome since I was not sure I was going to like it. I will probably take it back off one day on a weekend and spend some more time prepping it and re-painting it.

    I also thought about painting that chrome area to match the color of the car...but that would be a whole lot more involved.

    -r
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Doug,

    I've read over at i-club about some people discussing the possibility of putting 4EAT into a "locked" 50:50 mode. Since there is a fuse to disable AWD completely, there should be a way to keep it permanently enabled.

    I believe the challenge is that the clutch pack on the 4EAT (not the VTD) is not meant for heavy duty use (ie. constantly engaged). I've read somewhere that the 4EAT clutch pack constantly cycles on and off and is never fully engaged (maybe with the exception of 1st gear).

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I say leave it, as long as it doesn't peel don't mess with it 'cause it looks good.

    -juice
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Ken/Paisan,

    Either of you recall where those threads were? If there is a forced torque spread in '1' then all my work is done! That's really all I'd need.

    Also, the FWD fuse thing is something I've thought of as well. I've used it for a couple hundred miles and I think it's easy on the clutch since there's full slippage going on and no distribution rearward. What I wonder is if there's a full locked up mode with 0 slippage that would also be healthy for extended use. After all, if there's enough line pressure to get 0 slippage available, then the clutch itself should be fine, eh?

    So, if I can find any information on the logic or controller of the clutch, it would likely be a matter of discerning the signal required to keep line pressure maxed until further notice.

    IdahoDoug
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    IdahoDoug....go over to the i-club...do a search using 4eat torque split OR torque split. Search all open forums for the last year (options) and voila....lots there!

    Hope this helps..........
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Yeah, search the i-club.

    Here's a thread posted by the above Mr.lakepop:

    http://forums.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=84430&referrerid=767

    That thread has good comments from "SubyTechMaster", a.k.a. Ed from ISR Performance.


    -Dennis

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    He's gotta know what he's talking about, they set up that Forester with the 4" lift and huge wheels with spacers.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I wonder if they'll put a Scorpion lift kit on a Baja? :-D

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Oh yeah, I bet they will. And I bet they sell better than Forester lift kits, too.

    -juice
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    Sorry if this has been discussed before, I tried to 'search' but the search feature is unavailable at this time.

    On a whim I ordered the tweeter kit for '97 OB, only $35 thru a dealer. I have fished the wires up from the door panel and am waiting for the kit to arrive UPS this week. Question: Do these tweeters have some sort of crossover or high pass filter (aka "bass blocker" or the like) built in, or is something like that built into the factory speaker/wiring, or nothing like that at all?

    If not, has anyone tried to modify this on their car so the speakers get the frequencies they are supposed to get (ie highs go to the tweeters)? Any suggestions or feedback (d'oh! - bad choice of words!) would be appreciated. Thanks.

    btw - I already tried to ask the dealer and Subaru these questions, but understandably they don't know a lot about speakers, just cars.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't think so, from what I've heard it's just plug-and-play, though.

    -juice
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    FWIW, I have the factory tweeters in my '97 Legacy Wagon. When I upgraded the stereo and all 4 speakers last month, I put a dual cone (not coax with a separate tweeter) in the front doors to replace the factory dual cone. In the rear doors, I put a coax to punch up the high end in replacement of the dual cone speaker I also found there. I did this in case there was some base blocker in the wiring, so I would not have a tweeter in the door interfering with stereo separation of nicely positioned tweeters on the A pillar.

    Frankly, I'd be surprised if there is any filtering on the tweeter wires as this is not a very high end setup. Mine sounds fine, though with the upgrades there's a pretty big hole in the low end that's got me thinking about subs. It never stops, eh? Glad I pulled the subwoofer amp output wire out where I could get it easily if just this upgrade came along....

    IdahoDoug
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