I got my 2008 Rogue, Wicked Black, Premium pkg and moonroof yesterday! I am so loving the Bluetooth! Thanks to the information on Edmunds I was able to be a savvy buyer. Initially, I was told I could get the above car and options for $25,773, before TTT and other fees. I let my salesperson know that that was too much and showed him the internet offer for $23,394. He took it to his sales manager and returned with the great news that they were going to match it. And they did it with no haggling and no fuss! I was sooo surprised. The finance guy tried to sell me Gap insurance for $700, but with all my research done I knew I could get it for $349 and I told him no thank you. He offered it for $300! Then, he tried to sell me an interest rate >10% and I told him I had my own financing at 6%. Some how, he was able to delve into his book of tricks and pull out a rate of 5.24%! Wow, imagine if I was at the mercy of the dealer. It pays to do your research because once everyone involves sees how confident and knowledgeable you are they don't waste a lot of time trying to play games. It pays to do your research. You can save thousands of dollars! ">
Hi everyone - I am going to look for the LS AWD, so far I've only read posts here and looked at the pricing. I have not even test driven to see if it's in fact the car I want because I'm afraid of getting suckered into someone's office when I hit the lot. Can anyone give me advice on a plan of attack? Do I test drive first and tell them i'm still comparing, then come home and get an internet quote? Or should I test drive and if it's teh car I want then just go in with the numbers and deal with a sales guy on the spot? Please help, I also have no problem with walking away and holding out for a phone call, but i just really need to know how to begin. Thanks in advance!
Same thing I did - matched internet 'offer' and all - sure saves a lot of needless agony (and some time), doesn't it? Not to mention some money! $23.3k a really good price - assume you didn't opt for the leather - I was at $25.5 with leather, tinting and some other dealer add-ons. As I posted earlier I don't understand why everybody doesn't do the same as we did. Enjoy you Rogue - I am
the thing you've got to understand is that any vehicle's price will vary with demand in a particular area. I don't know what you mean by it being 'brutal ' in Vegas but if you can get enough internet quotes (similar to what both I (and nj2capch) did, it sure should give you an accurate number for market value in your area - it should be well below Edmunds TMV if our experiences are any indicator. Vegas a really big city these days, it would seem that you should have quite a few available Nissan 'bidders' - if not, you can look in other areas (SoCal?) that might be reasonably economical to get to (and back from). Good luck!
so you are looking for roge sl. what I would do is contact adleast 20 dealers to start off with over the internet for a Price quote on the sl roge with what ever options you are looking for color things like that and see the prices you get take the lowest price then go to the next dealer with the best price and try to beat that. I think you should go and testdrive the car tell them you are just looking and just want to test drive dont go in and sit down since you have no problems walking away if they say come in and lets talk then you walk just go and testdrive the car keep us updated it is a grate car test drive it thankyou for reading.
Did your deal include Leather seats? Where did you get the internet offer of $23,394? I have an offer of $25,371 with Black, leather, premium package, moonroof.
get take the lowest price then go to the next dealer with the best price and try to beat that IMO, overly aggressive and also something that the dealer will see thru to the point of ignoring you. If I was that second dealer in your sequence I wouldn't give you the time of day. Sooner or later you are spending a lot of time 'fighting' over $50 - on a $25000 vehicle. Waste of time for me and for him. Simply use the internet to find out who will give you the best price and then go get the car from him if he has the actual vehicle you want. If your research determines, for example, that $25k is about right for a full boat Rogue SL AWD in your area then by all means buy it and don't waste a bunch of time on some sort of 'reverse auction' that has no bidders. Just an opinion, of course.
Hi - Am I being misunderstood or even misunderstanding? I have not yet hit any dealerships to test drive or negotiate, I haven't done any internet quotes either. I was looking for help on where to start and the replies have been very helpful, thanks so much, I appreciate any feedback, always. Carla
I am confused about something. Went to test drive the Rogue SL with perfirmance package and the sticker price was around $24K and change, including destination charge of $725. But the dealer added on fees of $1995 for environmental protection package (to scotch guard the seats) $690 dealer prep fees to pull off the protective plastic and wash it, and another unbelieveable $1900 for Regional Market Adjustment. When I asked what that was for salesman said because this was so popular they were adding $1900 to the price. Oh, and $69 for a nitrogen fill in the tries. Has anyone ever heard of this!! In my negotiations do I just refuse to pay any of this nonsensical profiteering??
Hi Carla I'm also test driving and comparing vehicles. I'm sure it's not much different here in Wisconsin than it is in Vegas. I've been to probably 6 or 7 dealerships over the past couple of months (Honda, Subaru, Toyota, Ford, Mitsubishi, Saturn, Dodge and Nissan tomorrow) and only at 2 of them did the sales person ask me to meet the sales manager. In both cases we did not go into an office, they came to us and there was no pressure to purchase, they were just trying to establish a rapport so that I knew I had "friends" there. That said, here's what I recommend -
1) Before you go to your Nissan dealer (or any dealer) have clear in mind the specific vehicle and features you want to see and play with on your test drive (SL AWD with or without AWD package, with or without moonroof, gray interior vs black interior, etc) 2) Next, continue to read through these forums to see what kind of situations (good or bad) others have noticed on test drives or after owning the vehicle for awhile. Is rear visibility an issue, is the engine/CVT too noisy, can you parallel park it, etc. 3) Go to the lot, tell the salesperson right away that you are NOT looking to make a purchase today, just merely test driving vehicles for comparison. That let's them know your stance right away and they are much less likely to push the hard sale, usually. 4) When you decide which vehicle you want, get specific internet quotes from several dealers. Actually, the more quotes you can get the better. That way you have a better chance of getting a low price, so when you go to deal, the dealer either meets the internet quote or you leave them and go to the place that offered the lowest quote, though personally I would probably go there first. And take someone with you that will help you not make an expensive mistake. 5) Finally, as mention by nj2gapch in post #210, be mindful of underhanded dealer shenanigans. From my experience, most dealers are reputable and won't try to screw you over but there's always cheats in every line of work. Also, know your credit and get pre-approved for a loan through a bank or credit union before going to negotiate; and get various quotes on gap insurance and extended warranties if you feel you need them. Knowledge is power.
Carla - My post was concerning what I thought to be a rather aggressive approach recommended by marcogallo and nothing to do with your request for some shopping recommendations. The internet is a wonderful thing to use for car shopping and it should save you some money and a lot of aggravation. Over the years, I personally have found car shopping to be one of the more distasteful things I have to do periodically but not so much on my last purchase of a Rogue SL AWD - for $25.5 (plus taxes) including leather (and about everything else). Getting internet quotes should be simple to do, go to either the MSN or Edmunds auto websites and tell them precisely the Rogue you want, options, color etc and then there will be an option after you specify your car 'to get dealer pricing' - which, of course, you do want to do. The quotes you get will be based on a dealer locations surrounding your zipcode. Alternatively you can do much the same thing from Nissan's own website, or use a search engine to find specific dealer websites that may or may not be close to where you live which might help if you happen to live in an area where the local dealers are needlessly inflating prices. Most dealer websites will alow you to vire inventory etc. One other suggestion - although it may take a few days to get your quotes, the dealers seem to understand the concept of 'striking while the iron's hot' and it all may go quite quickly. The recommendation is be prepared to buy even to the point of having whatever financing you might need already arranged (NMAC (or your bank) will be happy to take your application on line and preapprove you) - and it doesn't hurt for you to let the dealers know that you are serious (and capable). The dealers don't want to waste their time with folks that aren't probable buyers and really don't want to waste a bunch of time arguing over $50, which was the point of my post that was certainly not directed at you. Have fun!
a number of dollar scrounging dealers are 'nitrogen' filling tires - something that supposed keeps the tires inflated to the correct pressure longer. This has become more common in response to the growing safety related concerns about low tire pressure. The Rogue, of course, already has tire pressure monitors, as now required by law. I am not sure however that filling a tire with nitrogen is really that effective. I would be curious to know what part of the country you are in - sounds like the dealer involved is really trying to take too much advantage of a popular vehicle. And yes anything that is not on the manufacturer sticker should be regarded as highly negotiable. If you area dealers are not prone to drop these bogus charges - it may just pay you to hop on an airplane.
Teamavi6, What is the final cost of the vehicle that the dealer was requesting? If it was me I would tell the dealer you can purchase the 3M ScotchGuard yourself at the local Walmart and that nitrogen is not necessary in the tires. Also, when it comes to the car being so demanding/popular tell him you will pay sticker for it then and not deal on it, versus starting at sticker and going up with fees.
First, we bought our Rogue (SL AWD, Gotham Gray, Premium/Black;Leather/Monnroof/Mats) a week before Memorial day weekend. Ended up paying ~$2,000 below MSRP or $100 above Dealer Invoice. Pretty much what I had in mind before arriving at the dealer. As I used Edmund's as part of my research.
They to wanted to charge a $250 dealer fee as I was signing the paper work - I told them that was a "walk-away" for me - and they removed it. The fee probably covers the wash, vacum, gas fillup and assembling the car mats and rear pull out cover.
Car dealers are what they are, you need to be firm, know your price and be willing to walk if it is not what you expect.
I too believe it is not worth haggling over $50-100, but the $250 was not mentioned until the end... and I was not HAPPY about it, and let them know.
related this earlier - but had a written internet price for the $25.5 but the dealer quoting waht I thought to be a good price did not actually have the car/color I wanted in stock - was willing to order it (or trade off with some other dealer). MSRP was a tad over $28k at a different dealer including just a bit ($500) of dealer fru-fru (window tinting etc) some of which I wanted anyway. The idiot salesman I had ignored anything I told him about already having a price (that I was willing to pay) and insisted instead on visiting his sales manager and presenting me 'his deal' - which turned out to be $27k. At which point I did exactly what you suggest, got up and started to walk out - amazing how fast the paperwork went thru after that - at the $25.5.
Looking into a new SL AWD Rogue. I haven't had any luck locating information on factory to dealer incentives. Anyone aware of any? Or know a good resource I could use to locate the info?
Hi guys - so in my initial research, I called up my auto insurance company to get a quote on my premium if I bought the Rogue...they happen to ask me if I wanted GAP insurance and I asked how much that would be...$4 per every 6 months. That would be $40 bucks for a 60 mo loan. I was shocked at this low quote and they assured it's the same type of GAP coverage the dealership would offer and it's for the life of the loan. My insurance co. is Travelers and I have both home and auto thru them. Has anyone refused it at the dealership and gone thru their auto insurance co?
If you (and I) understand what GAP insurance really is - the price of this 'policy' would have to be related to the size of your down payment as well as the expected depreciation rate of the Rogue. It is entirely conceivable that the insurance co.is doing nothing but taking you $60.
On the purchase of our Rogue and Altima coupe we were asked if we wanted GAP insurance and I undersand what it is. But my insurnce company also offers it for next to nothng too (Progressive) and went with them, which is costing me $70 for the life of my loan. MUCH cheaper then the $500 the dealership was offering me. I beleive in GAP insurance, since I average about 25K a yr, the value of my car goes down faster then most. So in 2 yrs my car gets into accident and its totaled, I'm not worried since I have GAP insurance.
Marco could I suggest you have someone proof your messages before you post. Some of your posts are very confusing to read as the english isn't very good.
Hi everyone, I am really interested in getting a Rogue to replace my 93 Mazda Mx-6. It's on it's last legs right now.
I have looked at the invoice price for a Rogue on here and the invoice price doesn't appear to be much lower than the MSRP. Maybe I thought it would be less, considering the deals and prices that I see in the paper. For example, an SL $4k off of MSRP. Are the invoice prices on here correct? I work for a corporation that gets the invoice price plus like $100. If the price that the sales rep is better than the corporate partner price would I be more likely to get the lesser amount?
Anyways my questions are related to other charges when purchasing the car. From the Nissan website when I build it it comes to 24,685. Let's say if that would be my cost before everything else, how much would I be looking at in normal taxes, dealer extra's not including extra accessories, warranties, etc.
I'm planning on test driving it not this weekend but the next with thoughts of buying in a few months when I have some more money to put down. Maybe if I'm lucky and the same sales numbers are in for Nissan as they were for Ford, GMC, ect I might have the upper hand to walk out with one that day?
Sorry for all the questions, I haven't bought a car since 1996.
I suggest you do some research before picking on people in the future. If you read Marco's profile you will see that he is legally blind. That would suggest why his spelling is not the best.
would suggest strongly that after you have decided what Rogue you want - S or SL, premium or no premium etc. etc. that you simply get some internet quotes from dealers in your area (or any other area that you consider 'doeable'). This more than anything else will give you a good idea of what the going price is for a Rogue where you live and, for that matter, if the dealers are 'inflating' the prices at all. The Rogue is apparently selling pretty well - not a generally favorable situation for the car buyer. A test drive is obviously a good idea but won't likely help you much in terms of figuring out how much the car should cost - the salesperson more likely to BS a higher price just in case your willing to pay it. ALWAYS ALWAYS do your research first - I think the car dealers would really prefer you didn't - for a reason! If you are still a few months away, however from actually pulling the trigger, you might want to wait on getting the quotes etc. - things (and prices) have a tendency to changes month to month. Down here in Texas it seems to be quite possible to buy a Rogue at very close to 'invoice' with minimal dealer profiteering - some other parts of the country the prices seem to be higher.
First off, why would a legally blind person BUY a car since they can not drive it. I wasn't picking it him, I was suggesting that he preview what he wrote before posting, that is not picking or making fun of on anyone....
well down here in Texas TT&L amounts to a total of about 6%, what sales taxes/registration fees etc. are where you live, I have no idea. Dealer 'invoice' is generally about 8% less than mfgr. sticker. Most dealers will be happy to show it to you simply because it is not usually what that dealer is paying for the car. I would regard the 'invoice' prices as published by Edmunds, MSN, or FTM Consumer Reports as accurate. It really is nothing but a guideline. HOWEVER, don't be too concerned with what that ficticious 'invoice' price is - on some vehicles, especially these days, many vehicles sell for well less than 'invoice' (20-25% off or more) and a few other more popular (and more economical) ones sell for some price closer to window sticker. Kinda depends on what it is you want and how that particular vehicles sells in you area. The only way you know what that 'good' price is is to ask - the more you ask the more likely you are to get a better answer. Your price is what it is, 'invoice' price doesn't matter in any case. Another important thing to remember is that buying something just because you get a better upfront discount on it will almost always also stick you with something that has less value later and the opposite is also true. As hard as it might be to understand, the cheapest car to buy may not be the cheapest to own. There is a reason why things like Accords and Camrys have higher resale values than correspondent 'American' car choices - they cost more to buy, are not usually discounted much and magically are also relatively inexpensive to own. I am guessing that the Rogue ends up in this kind of category.
thankyou Flite Nirse no problem you got it will try to have my brother or sum one elce look over my postings for me before I post them. see you asked me in a nice way not in a Nasty way Sorry about the Confuzion love this foram and Love nissan thankyou Marco.
thankyou thankyou so mutch for setting the record strate. Yes if peapol would only read my profile that is Y I filled it out. I no quite a bit about cars and love to be around the cars as mutch as I can. I learned quite a bit from beeing around my brother and dad and just going on the internet using my screan reader called Jaws. To answer flite Nirses questian that she posted in a nother posting I no I cant drive them just love cars and nissan to. Flite Nirse did not offend me in any way she was real nice about it this bord is good not like the Maranno bords I told them there was a bulitin for the problem they wher having about 3 or 4 peaple not menny and they did not want to lissen called me all names I think that most peapol that go on theese bords have no idea about cars and what they are talking about. they just come on theese bords when they have a problem caused bye them not mantaning the car like they should If peapol would only lissen there car problems would be salvd I am not bragging there is quite a few peapol on edmans that no what they are talking about a few not menny haha lol. anyway to get back on topick my dad is looking at a roge s moddle anyone bye one in the New york pa or nj or fl aria for a good price a bit below in voize if so pleas just post your byeing prosese thankyou for reading.
Secondly, if you spent 10 sec skimming thru his original post, you will see that he did mention that he's researching for his DAD. And, so what if a legally blind person comes here and posts? I've worked with the said screen reader, JAWS, and it's very, very difficult to browse (or just "preview" what he wrote) a site using it especially when a site is not very accessible.
thankyou so mutch so you no about jaws tuff to scimm the hole page at once thankyou for telling everyone how tuff it is to use this sight love cars. and to answer flight nirses posting my dad is looking at a maranno or roge boath cars was not for my selfe still looking he is not shore yet on witch one he wants now with gass prices I told him to go for the Roge but he test drove boath he likkes that blue color of the maranno and the blue that the roge has on it. the only thing is I dont think they offer a roge with the blue exterior and bage interior does anyone no if it is out there maby rair or sumthing thankyou so mutch Marco.
Looked at the Rogue last Friday while waiting on my Civic for the mysterious oil puddle. Very nice "cute ute" and seems to be a bit smaller than the CR-V. The dash layout is very contemporary and the seats were comfortable and gave a nice commanding view of the road ahead. Back seating area was a bit smallish but since this ute is based on the Sentra platform, can't fault it on that. Prices seem to also be a bit lower than the CR-V and if it can come with a CVT tranny like the Sentra, I think Nissan has a winner on it's hands. Did see that nice blue color and it the bright sun it was awesome looking. Starting to like the Rogue better than the CR-V now and if I had a need for a small ute, I'd seriously consider it. And Marco, I do understand your passion for cars...had it since I was a small child. So keep on posting in Edmunds and don't listen to the few that ridicule you...they aren't worth it...just ignore them as most of the other posters do!
Hey sandman thankyou so mutch for your understanding yes have loved cars since I was a few years old dont let the fact that I am leaguly blind stop me and yes I shore will keep on posting hear. now looking for jobs at a dealer ship dooing anything I no I cant be a car sails Man or work in the servase bays to fast pased for me. Just a good paying job at a dealer ship in new York on Long island. think I might have said that in my profile. anyway yes think this roge is a winner for Nissan when my dad test drove it it felt real nice. you had a sentria at one time think I red that in one of your postings quite sum time ago. what year was it and did you like it over all. and I dont lissen to those few posters that have nasty things to say. I help them out like on the maranno foram and say look hear there is a recall out and they atack me for my spelling not hey marco thankyou not one nice thing they had to say. love Helping peapol out with car stuff or anything. Cant stand those peapol who conplane my car has this problem and that problem but the fail to say I did not take it in for servase or a bulitan or recall. ok anyway I will keep you all posted on if my dad gets the maranno or roge or what ever he gets. thankyou so mutch for reading my posting.
Just thought I'd share my buying experience on a brand new Rogue SL AWD w/Premium and Sunroof package. I paid 22.9 without TTL but also traded in an 06 Accord Coupe w/20k miles on it. The dealer gave 15K for the Accord. My wife really luvs the Rogue better than she thought she'd like the CR-V.
you did real good on your deal with state did you bye the car in and from what nissan dealer how did they treat you and your wife. what color did you get thankyou for reading good luck with it grate car.
We bought a blue SL AWD with premium package + floor mats + splash guards.
There is a $500 Nissan rebate until the end of the month. Accounting for this rebate, we paid a final price of $22865 + TTL = $24527 out the door. We did not trade anything in. This was in Houston.
That is a really good deal. Using the costcoauto.com they show the invoice of your model with options at $23,504--so you got below invoice before the rebate. How did you manage to do that. Looking around here (Pacific Northwest) I can get close to invoice ($500 over using Costco program) but haven't been able to get below it. We want SL AWD, Premium, Leather package, floor mats and rear bumper protector. Add in splash guard and we are a tad over $25k at invoice. Problem is, it is hard to find that without moonroof. So, places want to tack on another few hundred dollars and we are at $25801 invoice (minus any $500 rebate). So, anyone got suggestions on me bringing this down to $24801 ($500 under invoice)? Would that be fair price where dealer still makes money?
Houston seems to be a good place to get a 'price' on a Rogue - I also got the same sort of deal on my SL AWD ($25k with everything incl. leather and some other minor stuff). Apparently better pricing down here than in other parts of the country and maybe even enough to justify a road trip.- Come on down - its only 95 degrees with a similar percentage of humidity - but the Rogue's AC works quite well!
I just called the dealership, asked for the Internet sales manager, and asked for a quote. And right then and there, at first shot, I was given this detailed quote. Minutes later, they emailed me the detailed quote, including showing the breakdown of the fees under the "TTL" heading (I wanted to make sure there was no profit padding using unwelcome "dealer prep" or excess "documentation" fees).
I could have countered with a lower bid, and on talking to the manager, I sensed that there was room to go a little below, but I was generally comfortable with the numbers first quoted, and so pulled the trigger.
This purchase was easy and simple -- no numbers changed or no pressure to add accessories when I went to pick up the car. I am figuring that the dealership here are quite motivated to sell because: (i) this is end of month, (ii) this is close to end of the model year (2009 Rogues should be coming out soon), and (iii) not as many buyers on the market, and they want to hit some sales quota to help with future allotments from Nissan.
Purchased a Nissan Rogue SL AWD Silver Ice for $22542 out the door ttl didnt need to pay for anything else. Came with floor mats and splash guards nothing else. If anyone needs referencing also 2009 rogues are coming out around mid august - september.
would not expect any real changes in the 09s, maybe cosmetic or possibly some optional equipment reorganization - like not limiting leather to the AWDs. Nissan, as well as most of the mfgrs,. will generally run successful products in 4-5 year cycles. The Rogue has apparently been doing quite well.
Comments
I paid 23,069 after taxes. I finaced it at 4.6% with $10,000 down. I think after the interest after 60 months the total cost for me will be $24,710.
Was this a good deal? Just curisous. Thanks
Can anyone give me advice on a plan of attack? Do I test drive first and tell them i'm still comparing, then come home and get an internet quote? Or should I test drive and if it's teh car I want then just go in with the numbers and deal with a sales guy on the spot?
Please help, I also have no problem with walking away and holding out for a phone call, but i just really need to know how to begin.
Thanks in advance!
thanks!
IMO, overly aggressive and also something that the dealer will see thru to the point of ignoring you. If I was that second dealer in your sequence I wouldn't give you the time of day. Sooner or later you are spending a lot of time 'fighting' over $50 - on a $25000 vehicle. Waste of time for me and for him. Simply use the internet to find out who will give you the best price and then go get the car from him if he has the actual vehicle you want. If your research determines, for example, that $25k is about right for a full boat Rogue SL AWD in your area then by all means buy it and don't waste a bunch of time on some sort of 'reverse auction' that has no bidders. Just an opinion, of course.
I'm also test driving and comparing vehicles. I'm sure it's not much different here in Wisconsin than it is in Vegas. I've been to probably 6 or 7 dealerships over the past couple of months (Honda, Subaru, Toyota, Ford, Mitsubishi, Saturn, Dodge and Nissan tomorrow) and only at 2 of them did the sales person ask me to meet the sales manager. In both cases we did not go into an office, they came to us and there was no pressure to purchase, they were just trying to establish a rapport so that I knew I had "friends" there. That said, here's what I recommend -
1) Before you go to your Nissan dealer (or any dealer) have clear in mind the specific vehicle and features you want to see and play with on your test drive (SL AWD with or without AWD package, with or without moonroof, gray interior vs black interior, etc)
2) Next, continue to read through these forums to see what kind of situations (good or bad) others have noticed on test drives or after owning the vehicle for awhile. Is rear visibility an issue, is the engine/CVT too noisy, can you parallel park it, etc.
3) Go to the lot, tell the salesperson right away that you are NOT looking to make a purchase today, just merely test driving vehicles for comparison. That let's them know your stance right away and they are much less likely to push the hard sale, usually.
4) When you decide which vehicle you want, get specific internet quotes from several dealers. Actually, the more quotes you can get the better. That way you have a better chance of getting a low price, so when you go to deal, the dealer either meets the internet quote or you leave them and go to the place that offered the lowest quote, though personally I would probably go there first. And take someone with you that will help you not make an expensive mistake.
5) Finally, as mention by nj2gapch in post #210, be mindful of underhanded dealer shenanigans. From my experience, most dealers are reputable and won't try to screw you over but there's always cheats in every line of work. Also, know your credit and get pre-approved for a loan through a bank or credit union before going to negotiate; and get various quotes on gap insurance and extended warranties if you feel you need them. Knowledge is power.
Sorry this is soooo long, hope it helps.
The internet is a wonderful thing to use for car shopping and it should save you some money and a lot of aggravation. Over the years, I personally have found car shopping to be one of the more distasteful things I have to do periodically but not so much on my last purchase of a Rogue SL AWD - for $25.5 (plus taxes) including leather (and about everything else). Getting internet quotes should be simple to do, go to either the MSN or Edmunds auto websites and tell them precisely the Rogue you want, options, color etc and then there will be an option after you specify your car 'to get dealer pricing' - which, of course, you do want to do. The quotes you get will be based on a dealer locations surrounding your zipcode. Alternatively you can do much the same thing from Nissan's own website, or use a search engine to find specific dealer websites that may or may not be close to where you live which might help if you happen to live in an area where the local dealers are needlessly inflating prices. Most dealer websites will alow you to vire inventory etc.
One other suggestion - although it may take a few days to get your quotes, the dealers seem to understand the concept of 'striking while the iron's hot' and it all may go quite quickly. The recommendation is be prepared to buy even to the point of having whatever financing you might need already arranged (NMAC (or your bank) will be happy to take your application on line and preapprove you) - and it doesn't hurt for you to let the dealers know that you are serious (and capable). The dealers don't want to waste their time with folks that aren't probable buyers and really don't want to waste a bunch of time arguing over $50, which was the point of my post that was certainly not directed at you. Have fun!
I would be curious to know what part of the country you are in - sounds like the dealer involved is really trying to take too much advantage of a popular vehicle. And yes anything that is not on the manufacturer sticker should be regarded as highly negotiable. If you area dealers are not prone to drop these bogus charges - it may just pay you to hop on an airplane.
What is the final cost of the vehicle that the dealer was requesting? If it was me I would tell the dealer you can purchase the 3M ScotchGuard yourself at the local Walmart and that nitrogen is not necessary in the tires. Also, when it comes to the car being so demanding/popular tell him you will pay sticker for it then and not deal on it, versus starting at sticker and going up with fees.
They to wanted to charge a $250 dealer fee as I was signing the paper work - I told them that was a "walk-away" for me - and they removed it. The fee probably covers the wash, vacum, gas fillup and assembling the car mats and rear pull out cover.
Car dealers are what they are, you need to be firm, know your price and be willing to walk if it is not what you expect.
I too believe it is not worth haggling over $50-100, but the $250 was not mentioned until the end... and I was not HAPPY about it, and let them know.
The idiot salesman I had ignored anything I told him about already having a price (that I was willing to pay) and insisted instead on visiting his sales manager and presenting me 'his deal' - which turned out to be $27k. At which point I did exactly what you suggest, got up and started to walk out - amazing how fast the paperwork went thru after that - at the $25.5.
Thanks in advance!
Has anyone refused it at the dealership and gone thru their auto insurance co?
I am really interested in getting a Rogue to replace my 93 Mazda Mx-6. It's on it's last legs right now.
I have looked at the invoice price for a Rogue on here and the invoice price doesn't appear to be much lower than the MSRP. Maybe I thought it would be less, considering the deals and prices that I see in the paper. For example, an SL $4k off of MSRP. Are the invoice prices on here correct? I work for a corporation that gets the invoice price plus like $100. If the price that the sales rep is better than the corporate partner price would I be more likely to get the lesser amount?
Anyways my questions are related to other charges when purchasing the car. From the Nissan website when I build it it comes to 24,685. Let's say if that would be my cost before everything else, how much would I be looking at in normal taxes, dealer extra's not including extra accessories, warranties, etc.
I'm planning on test driving it not this weekend but the next with thoughts of buying in a few months when I have some more money to put down. Maybe if I'm lucky and the same sales numbers are in for Nissan as they were for Ford, GMC, ect I might have the upper hand to walk out with one that day?
Sorry for all the questions, I haven't bought a car since 1996.
I suggest you do some research before picking on people in the future. If you read Marco's profile you will see that he is legally blind. That would suggest why his spelling is not the best.
A test drive is obviously a good idea but won't likely help you much in terms of figuring out how much the car should cost - the salesperson more likely to BS a higher price just in case your willing to pay it. ALWAYS ALWAYS do your research first - I think the car dealers would really prefer you didn't - for a reason!
If you are still a few months away, however from actually pulling the trigger, you might want to wait on getting the quotes etc. - things (and prices) have a tendency to changes month to month. Down here in Texas it seems to be quite possible to buy a Rogue at very close to 'invoice' with minimal dealer profiteering - some other parts of the country the prices seem to be higher.
My other question about what is the invoice price? Is it what Edmunds has listed or lower?
Also what percentage should I expect to be added on for taxes and other fees before I drive any car off the lot?
HOWEVER, don't be too concerned with what that ficticious 'invoice' price is - on some vehicles, especially these days, many vehicles sell for well less than 'invoice' (20-25% off or more) and a few other more popular (and more economical) ones sell for some price closer to window sticker. Kinda depends on what it is you want and how that particular vehicles sells in you area. The only way you know what that 'good' price is is to ask - the more you ask the more likely you are to get a better answer. Your price is what it is, 'invoice' price doesn't matter in any case.
Another important thing to remember is that buying something just because you get a better upfront discount on it will almost always also stick you with something that has less value later and the opposite is also true. As hard as it might be to understand, the cheapest car to buy may not be the cheapest to own. There is a reason why things like Accords and Camrys have higher resale values than correspondent 'American' car choices - they cost more to buy, are not usually discounted much and magically are also relatively inexpensive to own. I am guessing that the Rogue ends up in this kind of category.
Tony
SL AWD
Premium package
Leather package
Moon roof package
Splash guards
Moon roof deflector
Floor mats
MSRP $28,110.00, Residual amount $14,617.20
15k miles a year
39 months
I only put $410 down
My payments are $410 a month
Is this a good deal.
Did see that nice blue color and it the bright sun it was awesome looking. Starting to like the Rogue better than the CR-V now and if I had a need for a small ute, I'd seriously consider it.
And Marco, I do understand your passion for cars...had it since I was a small child. So keep on posting in Edmunds and don't listen to the few that ridicule you...they aren't worth it...just ignore them as most of the other posters do!
The Sandman
There is a $500 Nissan rebate until the end of the month. Accounting for this rebate, we paid a final price of $22865 + TTL = $24527 out the door. We did not trade anything in. This was in Houston.
I could have countered with a lower bid, and on talking to the manager, I sensed that there was room to go a little below, but I was generally comfortable with the numbers first quoted, and so pulled the trigger.
This purchase was easy and simple -- no numbers changed or no pressure to add accessories when I went to pick up the car. I am figuring that the dealership here are quite motivated to sell because: (i) this is end of month, (ii) this is close to end of the model year (2009 Rogues should be coming out soon), and (iii) not as many buyers on the market, and they want to hit some sales quota to help with future allotments from Nissan.