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Chevrolet Blazer Engine and Performance Problems

tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
I am consolidating many of the topics that deal with engine related issues and engine performance.

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper


  • Hello,
    I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer. The Idle is fine, the acceleration is fine.
    But when you get it up to a steady speed it Misfires.
    I have changed spark plugs, and plug wires. Replaced the fuel filter.
    Ran injector cleaner time and time again.

    I don't know what else to do. Can you PLEASE help me?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You'll have a far better chance of getting help if you post your message where other Blazer owner's will read it. You can find them here: Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy: Problems & Solutions

    tidester, host
  • aallen2aallen2 Posts: 5
    My blazer is a standard shift where the motor reves when I go to switch gears. What could this be and about how much is it to fix?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I don't think it will cost you anything! All you need to do is lighten up on the gas pedal when you're pressing the clutch pedal.

    tidester, host
  • aallen2aallen2 Posts: 5
    The engine is doing the revving on its own every time I push in on the clutch. It looks like the clutch has gone out. It has 120k miles on it. Is that the normal life for a clutch?
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    Clutches, like brakes and tires are a wear item... Much of the life is going to depend on how they are used (or abused). Personnally, I think 120k is pretty decent distance on a clutch. As for the revving, check the throttle cable. Sounds like it's sticking either bunched up floor mat, or broken spring at the throttle body.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Clean the throttle body with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush - probably gummed up on the butterfly or throttle valve. See if thst does it first. Check the vac lines too.
  • aallen2aallen2 Posts: 5
    Excuse my ignorance, where is the throttle body located and is it something simple enough for me to handle on my own?
  • Its the thing that the air goes thru (like the old carb) but no fuel - yours is injected so fuel cleaner never goes thru it. Remove the tall screw on the back of the air housing center of engine, remove the pipe at the rubber grommet, tilt the black plastic housing up to unclip it on the front edge and lift off. Now you see the throttle body and with eye protection on you spray carb cleaner in and hold the throttle open and use a toothbrush to clean it so all black gunk is gone. Replace all things and start - may shake for a few seconds till the cleaner burns off.
  • North bound from Niagara Falls NY to Toronto today. Lost all throttle at 90 mph. The truck remained on and everthing was fine however when I hit 90 mph it felt as if I'd hit a govenor. As the truck slowed below the speed the accelerator seemed to kick in again. I tried after a while to reach 90 mph again and at the same speed and this event was repeated. I purchased this 2002 ZR2 this year from the original owner. I spoke w/ her today and she stated she seldom drove over 70 - 80 mph and never experienced what I described. Wondering if anyone is aware of this.

  • Computer programmed at approx 93 to limit you - have to buy an aftermarket programmer to alter. With a ZR2 4wd I'd avoid those speeds from the standpoint of your drivetrain and transfer case - lots of Extremes get altered but 2wd.
  • It has a speed limiter as do all newer vehicles (at least GM). Newer vehicles also have "little black boxes" similar to that of an aircraft that record data, such as rate of speed and law enforcement can (and have)extract that information should the need arise, from say an accident.
  • Thanks for your reply. Did'nt know of this information. I'll leave it at the factory specs. Much appreciated. Just seems this truck could ride along at a high rate no problem. Very comfortable to cruise in.

  • Can anyone tell me if my 1995 4.3L S10 Blazer Vin W has a MAF and is so where is it located. I have looked and do not see what I generally recognize as a MAF.
    Thanks David
  • None on 95 - started on 96up with newer injection.
    You have a MAP sensor or mass air pressure on the manifold.
  • Thank you and does the MAP sensor need cleaning like the MAF?
  • poof1poof1 Posts: 3
    so how crazy am i to want to put a 4.3 engine and tranny into my 86 S10 blazer that has a 2.8 in it ?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Depending on what year 4.3 and trans you will need the computer and wiring to make it work. The 4L60 is electronically shifted and the 4.3 and many sensors including the 3 exhaust O2 ones all are required or it will run like crap if at all. Why not go for a real engine and put a 350 V8 in with a 700R4 trans - can be done but not in a smog check/inspection state so check state laws first. As to the 20 year old Blazer have to ask why do you want the headache cause you can pick up a 96up with the newer injection (98up added rear discs and better airbags) for pretty cheap with higher mileage and rebuild them and its way easier. For real 4wd get the older solid front axle full size Blazer with the 350 and go from there - so many parts out there and more room to work on. You can beat the crap out of those - wish I had my 89 Suburban back but rust caught up.
  • poof1poof1 Posts: 3
    Luck has it I have everything, puter, wiring, sensors, saved the 350/700r4 for my 88 3/4 ton, ( it's a 40 over stroker) but this old S 10 has a soft spot in this girls heart. Any way the body has no cancer and is in really good shape.
  • Hi i had the same problem with my truck then it started poping codes saying a muti port misfire. I went to a shop. They told me it was my injectors. I did not think that was right so i tried acouple of things. There is a controll module in the distributer it cost about 40 dollers and after i changed that the problem went away. But the damege was done it fried my cat I cant remember what the part was called. But you can ask your local parts store. P.S my motor is a 4.3 L v6 with the delpi system.
    Anyway good luck hope it helps.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Must have been the cam position sensor in the distributor. Ignition module is mounted on the coil on newer models. The random misfire P0300 can be injectors, cap/rotor, coil, ign mod, vac leak, and a few others so this is way a good dealer scan can save you money - if they can actually spot the cause - some never pop a code and only occur at certain throttle conditions. Mine was a crank sensor that threw timing off so at full throttle leaned the fuel mix out and misfires in all cylinders. So a lean mixture due to failing fuel pump can also cause this. Good you found it.
  • Color me unlucky ( I wasn't really stupid was I- no answer required on that )

    My 86 S-15 Jimmy ( 1992 engine )311,000 miles, 2.8, started having a slow idle and stalling( ran fine) so I figured I would find the vacuum leak with starting fluid. Found it,(vacuum fittings on air cleaner) idle came up so I turned it off and walked away to find a small fire by the fire wall when I came back a few minutes later.

    It could have been worse. The coil and electrical connectors on them were partly melted along with the insulation on the wires going to the connectors ( but they are identifible by going back a few inches) and the distributer cap melted up one post.

    What is that box mounted with the coil with what looks like heat fins on it?

    I will go to the Junk yard an get a coil ( I need the connectors on top too) along with that box I can't identify ) replace the distributer cap and then I am stuck.

    Maybe I will get lucky and find the vacuum hoses and fittings also but I have the feeling that without something showing me where all the vacuum lines come from and go I am going to be in trouble. I ordered a Chilton Manuel maybe they will have a diagram.

    Any ideas for someone who is kind of a parts replacer rather than a mechanic?

    I am also posting as a Public Service Announcement that ether ( starting fluid ) can take some time to ignite so don't walk away soon.
  • Sounds like the ignition module (1x2" IC pack). Good luck. You can buy new connectors at many stores.
  • My 99 S-10 Blazer engine missfires (4.3liter tbi) when cold but runs great when warmed up. One shop said this is caused by the ECM. No codes showing and all sensors checked good. Milage is 204,000+ Please help!!
  • I am trying to pull the module inside the distributor. The problem is when i took the rotor out the module is under something metal. Do I have to remove the whole distributor to remove it or is there something I am missing.
  • Did you have to pull the whole distibutor. If not how do you get the module from under the metal piece? I pulled the rotor and the piece is directly under it. I removed the screws in the module but it wont slip out
  • The cam sensor has 2 torque screws that hold it in BUT the dist position only allows 1 spot where the sensor clears that rotating asembly so you can bump the starter till it lines up or remove the dist. This is 96up so if older model and its the ignition module thats a diff story.
  • same as other posts answer.
  • Could be lots of things at that mileage. Fuel pressure needs to be 60psi for cold start so that is one to check first and thats usually the pump in the tank. Then on to a full tuneup with cap/rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, air, PCV, clean MAF sensor, etc you get the picture. Then possible wiring or sensor, connector, etc.
  • We just bought a 96 Blazer... The 4 wheel drive is not working... It sounds like it is trying to click in but doesnt... There are 3 Vac lines on the transfer case that are not hooked up... I don't know where these go.... Can anybody help
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