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BTW, the belt I put on that started this thread has finally shut up.
Or maybe it's especially good quality paint that doesn't wear off? :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Wasn't driving well (very sluggish) and he changed one of the O2 sensors.
Then, it overheated so first he changed the thermostat. Not long until it overheated again and he changed the fan clutch. It was running very nicely for a few days!
Now it is not overheating but is continueing to run very poorly and will still smell hot? It is very sluggish, has a loud roaring noise, almost like an airplane taking off, and misses some when driving...or maybe hesitates is a better way to describe it. Occasionaly there is white smoke out the back, which I have mostly noticed after driving on the highway vs. in-town. Occasionaly the check engine light comes on, primarily when it is hesitating and having to "work".
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
And I just thought of this when reading the response up there to someone else's problem: my a/c compressor doesn't kick on about half the time. I have to open the hood and "jiggle" the little cable thing that is attached to the compressor and then it kicks on and I have cold air. Could this be related to the other problems?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I just replaced the MAF sensor and am wondering if this is true becouse i need to get that Nasty Service Engine Soon Light of thank you
ross.g
Jack
I appologize in advance, this is lengthy, but to get good information I have to give a good full description.
After completely rebuilding from the stock short block- camshaft,crank shaft, pistons,and oilpump left unchanged- Reason for rebuild? Engine was over heating leading to both cylnder heads cracking, the block is not cracked as far as I can tell with three oil changes in 3 days showing no water and no subsequent loss of coolant after repair. The reason for over heating? small hidden water pump hose failure, occluded water jackets, and most likely a stuck thermostat. All from manufaturer recommended dex cool induced red-mud (a whole 'nother talk show as my wife would say). I have one last problem, (I might even know the answers to my own questions)but I'm looking for a nod from many minds or a new thought for possible causes. Current engine state description- engine starts immediately idles a little rough (truly "a little") responds great to throttle requests while in park- with only one noise- valve lifters... fairly certain it's not piston slap but honestly it's not as much of a tick as I'd like for that and one piston head top was damaged missing a small piece from the top (not ideal to leave unchanged but believe it or not you cant drop the oil pan on this truck to get to the connecting rod without pulling the engine. There is no removable cross member like the service manual description it's permanent wishbone suspension member. I tryed to save a buck (dumb move) by cleaning the valve lifters in parts cleaner, they were oil soaked before installation and tested with a oil syringe for obstructions (not perfect but they passed oil from one orrifice to the other) new crane lifters are now on the way along with a gasket set...again! Finally to the problem; When I put it in drive... and again only in drive... it hesitates to accelerate- no back fire- no apparent engine stumble just a spongey gas pedal to the floor with little throttle response a sense of lost commpresion. The only sensors etc. NOT replaced are IAC, TPS, MAF,Fuel pressure regulator, injectors and the O2 sensors. I have the $300+ factory gm service manuals and have followed them closely with procedure, order and torque specs. Now... how I think I jacked it up and what I think is wrong. When I flushed the block I noticed all too late that a perfect arch stream of water was flowing directly into the exhaust pipe. Secondly, the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection uses a round doughnut (ball joint type) metal gasket, in order to hold them in place while I hooked up the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold I used indian head gasket sealer on one side of the doughnut. Of course after the initial start the heat caused off-gassing from the gasket sealer through the exhaust. What I think about that? I cooked my O2 sensors- all three and the catlytic converter. Given the current condition and problem presented does this make sense to any one else? I'd rather start there than replace hundreds of dollars of sensors one at a time. Thanks so very much for your time.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
How many miles on the engine?
Since I changed to the Goodyear belt I have had no noises in over 3 months. Seems to be fixed.