I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy and when I first start it up and while I am idling it makes a chirping noise but once I give it the gas it seems to go away could this be my problem also? thanks
Very possible. Another source could be the bearing in the idler pulley, but checking the belt is easy. Just find the labels on the belt (remember, there are two locations) and put a little silicon grease or even liquid soap on them. If the sound changes, you have found your noise.
BTW, the belt I put on that started this thread has finally shut up.
You don't mention how long you've been hearing the chirp, but it seems like the paint on the belt would wear off after a while and the chirp would go away on its own.
Or maybe it's especially good quality paint that doesn't wear off? :confuse:
Thanks for your help. I had the Idler pulley replace on 5-24-07 the serpentine belt that same day and the serpentine nelt tensioner on 2-22-07. I will be taking it in once again to have the chirping checked again . I have just over 92000 miles on my 1999 jimmy. I think it might be time to start looking for a new car.
I have a 95 Blazer withe the 4.3 Vortec Vin number "W". The fuel injection system is commonly reffered to as a spider.I don't know the proper term for it.Does this set up use a Mass Airflow Sensor? Where is it located? If it doesn't, what does it use and where is it located?
Hi all, my Blazer has really got my husband and I stumped. Wasn't driving well (very sluggish) and he changed one of the O2 sensors. Then, it overheated so first he changed the thermostat. Not long until it overheated again and he changed the fan clutch. It was running very nicely for a few days! Now it is not overheating but is continueing to run very poorly and will still smell hot? It is very sluggish, has a loud roaring noise, almost like an airplane taking off, and misses some when driving...or maybe hesitates is a better way to describe it. Occasionaly there is white smoke out the back, which I have mostly noticed after driving on the highway vs. in-town. Occasionaly the check engine light comes on, primarily when it is hesitating and having to "work". Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the reply! 2 things: the white smoke was happening before all the changes, too. It's rather infrequent, also. Could a bad head gasket be the cause of the other problems, too? And I just thought of this when reading the response up there to someone else's problem: my a/c compressor doesn't kick on about half the time. I have to open the hood and "jiggle" the little cable thing that is attached to the compressor and then it kicks on and I have cold air. Could this be related to the other problems?
While driving sometimes the Blazer will start an almost jerky surge and the rpms will usually jump up and down within about 750 rpms. We are not sure what could be causing this. It's like a pulse type jump. It may be at 1500 rpms then drop to around 1000 then up to 1500 and down to 1000. Any ideas?
I have a 95 Jimmy with the 4.3 liter Vortec 4x4. I have cleaned out the Throttlebody, as it was all gummed up and would stay stuck in the "wide-open" position. However, it still won't go over 20 mph, any ideas?
Was wondering i know i have read it around here somewhere but not sure i also heard from a friends that if i dicounect the negative batter terminal and leave it unpluged for like 20 minuts it will clear my computer I just replaced the MAF sensor and am wondering if this is true becouse i need to get that Nasty Service Engine Soon Light of thank you
The other day my rpms starting jumping up and down.Couldn't get any acceleration. It would keep puttering. Open the hood and heard what it seemed like clicking coming from a solenoid but I couldn't tell.If I would replace the spark plugs and wires would this solve this problem.The car has over 130,000 miles on it.Everything else works but oil gauge will not work.And also before this I had the oil lines breaks loose which was very messy of course about 8 months ago and had it fixed so its not that. Blazer won't start now and when I opened the oil cap smoke came out of the engine. I just changed the oil about 2 weeks prior and also I have been getting poor gas mileage. Any suggestion on what to do because right now blazer is stranded. Thanks need help....
I appologize in advance, this is lengthy, but to get good information I have to give a good full description. After completely rebuilding from the stock short block- camshaft,crank shaft, pistons,and oilpump left unchanged- Reason for rebuild? Engine was over heating leading to both cylnder heads cracking, the block is not cracked as far as I can tell with three oil changes in 3 days showing no water and no subsequent loss of coolant after repair. The reason for over heating? small hidden water pump hose failure, occluded water jackets, and most likely a stuck thermostat. All from manufaturer recommended dex cool induced red-mud (a whole 'nother talk show as my wife would say). I have one last problem, (I might even know the answers to my own questions)but I'm looking for a nod from many minds or a new thought for possible causes. Current engine state description- engine starts immediately idles a little rough (truly "a little") responds great to throttle requests while in park- with only one noise- valve lifters... fairly certain it's not piston slap but honestly it's not as much of a tick as I'd like for that and one piston head top was damaged missing a small piece from the top (not ideal to leave unchanged but believe it or not you cant drop the oil pan on this truck to get to the connecting rod without pulling the engine. There is no removable cross member like the service manual description it's permanent wishbone suspension member. I tryed to save a buck (dumb move) by cleaning the valve lifters in parts cleaner, they were oil soaked before installation and tested with a oil syringe for obstructions (not perfect but they passed oil from one orrifice to the other) new crane lifters are now on the way along with a gasket set...again! Finally to the problem; When I put it in drive... and again only in drive... it hesitates to accelerate- no back fire- no apparent engine stumble just a spongey gas pedal to the floor with little throttle response a sense of lost commpresion. The only sensors etc. NOT replaced are IAC, TPS, MAF,Fuel pressure regulator, injectors and the O2 sensors. I have the $300+ factory gm service manuals and have followed them closely with procedure, order and torque specs. Now... how I think I jacked it up and what I think is wrong. When I flushed the block I noticed all too late that a perfect arch stream of water was flowing directly into the exhaust pipe. Secondly, the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection uses a round doughnut (ball joint type) metal gasket, in order to hold them in place while I hooked up the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold I used indian head gasket sealer on one side of the doughnut. Of course after the initial start the heat caused off-gassing from the gasket sealer through the exhaust. What I think about that? I cooked my O2 sensors- all three and the catlytic converter. Given the current condition and problem presented does this make sense to any one else? I'd rather start there than replace hundreds of dollars of sensors one at a time. Thanks so very much for your time.
In september we were coming back from Ocean city through PA. PA is all hills. When I was driving I noticed that going up the hill seeemed to be a challange for the Blazer, after a few more hills the accereration got worse and to the point that we had to pull of the side of the road. Blazer at that point would just completly shut down. No gas, no power, no engine. Turn off and turn back on and you would be ok for another 60 miles or so and then it would do the same thing. This was a very hot day in the 90's. We changed the belt tentioner thought that was making every thing slip and Blazer has been fine for about 1 month. unitl this weekend when we went on a road trip, more than the 30 miles we usually drive everyday to work, and it was hot this weekened and the Blazer started doing the same thing all over again. Loss of power no acceleration and then total shut down. Help, does any one know of this problem?
I'm trying to remove the upper intake manifold on my '96 Jimmy 4x4 as I appear to have a coolant leak from the lower intake manifold. I've removed the bolts from around the edge of the upper intake manifold and it won't come off. It appears that it's being held down by the two bolts near the center that were holding down the fuel lines. But the top of these two bolts appear to be a male Torx T-15 and I can't find a female T-15 size female socket to remove them with. So ... what do I do?
When I go to take off it doesnt want to go and it will bog down and or stall,and when I start goin down the road it sometimes does not want to shift and then sometimes it will not go over 2,000 rpms and i will only be going about 50 mph.When the truck is just sitting in park I can rev it up and everything and it will do fine,sounds good and every thing but when I go to take off all that happens.Also when I start it white smoke comes out of the tail pipe any suggestions,I have checked fuel filter,injectors,plugs,coil but nothing any info and I would appreciate it thanks
have a 95 Blazer with 185000 miles on the original Vortec V-6. Lately I have noticed the engine running poorly after it gets warmed up. I just changed the plugs, wires,cap rotor and O2 sensor. None of this seems to have helped. When you first start the engine, it runs as smooth as the day it was built. After about 30 minutes, the miss starts. I have also noticed a significant drop in fuel mileage as well. Any ides?
I have a 97 Blazer with 140K on it and it has been having some acceleration and performance issues. At times the acceleration is very sluggish and then it at other times it is normal. The sluggishness tends to be more pronounced when the fuel tank is full and then occurs less when the tank is below half. I recently had a tune-up and had the fuel pump replaced, but the sluggishness still exists. My mechanic indicates that the computer is not throwing any codes and hesitates to guess at replacing any parts. Does anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!
Just today, my 2002 2-Dr blazer began making an engine knock at startup. Once the Engine temp reaches 210, the noise stops. I have also noticed that the oil pressure guage fluctuates while driving. Does anyone have any ideas.
Have V-6 Vortec- When I turn on w/s wipers, they don't start right away and the radio turns off. There is a audible buzzing coming from the dash or the cowl area(drivers side).This lasts for about 10-15 seconds. After I turn the wipers on high, they will eventually turn on and the radio will come on also and the buzzing stops. Ever since I've had the vehicle, when I turned the wipers on intermittent, the radio would stop playing when the wipers came on, when they paused, the radio would play. Now the the buzzing problem. During all this, the battery never seems to go into discharge. Any suggestions on what to check? I have had no other known electrical issues.
Hi guys i have a problem with my truck when i start it in the morning and let it run for 5-10 min as soon as i put it in drive it starts bogging rpms jumping up and down does it until the engine get warm any idea guys i would appreciate it thanks
I have been having belt noise since last June. I bought a belt from Pep Boys and they put it on because I was having problems getting it on. I think they charged me like $20 or $30 JUST to put it on and it took the guy like 3 minutes. Anyway, the noise barely went away. It had/has gotten worse the past few months. I would spray a lubricant on it every so often, but, the noise would come back in seconds. I tried belt dressing, against my better judgement, yeah it didn't work at all. DON'T USE BELT DRESSING ON SQUEAKY BELTS. Today I saw where you said you used silicone grease. I ran up to ace, bought some and put it on, it worked GREAT. I'm affraid tomorrow it will be back, but, we'll see. My belt is under warranty at Pep Boys, but, they will only exchange it, not refund my money. Why in the world would I want the same belt?!?! I was going to try a gatorback belt, but, I'm farely poor ha. So, I just hope the silicone grease works. Thanks!!
I have a 97 Chevy blazer w/ V-6 Vortex engine. About a month ago it starting idling higher than normal until it warms up. When you are on icy roads and come to a stop sign, if the idle hasn't come down yet, it's like trying to stop with one foot on the brake and one on the gas, which isn't good!! The high idle eventually comes back down after awhile. One buddy though it might be the throttle positioning sensor and another buddy thought it might be the idle air control sensor. The check engine light doesn't come on though, so I was told I probably can't get a code. Anybody thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I finally had to give up on the Gates belt and go with Goodyear. A trusted mechanic told me they have had problems with Gates serpentine belts chirping and squeaking. He said it is because the Gates has continuous grooves with no breaks and can trap oil and dirt.
Since I changed to the Goodyear belt I have had no noises in over 3 months. Seems to be fixed.
I have a 1998 blazer that has had the fuel pump and filter replaced. It still seems to lack power and sometimes backfire or burp back thru the throttle body. fuel pressure seems to be with in tollerance, but have noticed a water leak at the back of the intake. So with that leak could a vacume leak cause it to run like this also. I have had a code that tells me that it is lean on bank 1 also. any help please.
i've been stalling alot after my blazer warms up.the warning light comes on and car wants to stall. i replaced the throttle position sensor but did not unhook the battery. would this cause my blazer to have hard starting now when i start my blazer? what should i do?
I have a 1998 chevy blazer that I have now replaced the fuel pump and filter. I have also replaced the intake gaskets, mas air flow sensor and have tested all other sensors. All of them have check fine.The only other sensors to be check are the cam and crank. So now here is the problem, It will start but when you go to give it the gas it will stall out and then it may set a few moments before it restart. I am lost at what to do. :sick:
2001 blazer 4.3 4wd - Repolaced fuel filter, air filter, plugs, cap, rotor, wires and oil change. No code until 15 minutes after getting to temp and then OBD gets a code for cyclinder 5 misfire. Would the coil cause this? Or do I need an injector. My mechanic stated that if I replace the injectors, I have to have a "spider" setup, but during research, there is no "spider" for that year, just the injectors and fuel pressure regulator.
hi,i have a 1999 blazer with 4.3L engine.the fuel pump went bad so i waited about 2 weeks then replaced it when i had the time.now the engine runs very rough and the exhaust is black and smells very sulfery.after driving it awhile i got the service engine light, the code reader shows p1133 and p1153.when i put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail test port it's reading 80-90 psi well above the 60-66 psi it should read. before the fuel pump went bad and i replaced it the car ran perfect.the manual i have for the car does not tell me what these odb codes mean. any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated
The water leak shouldnt cause a vacum leak although it may! But the code lean on bank one tells me that the o2 sensor is bad, also check to make sure the firing order is right as well! The code says the o2 sensor in bank one is bad which means the sensor befor the cat. try replacing that one. there should only be 2 of them on that model
Comments
BTW, the belt I put on that started this thread has finally shut up.
Or maybe it's especially good quality paint that doesn't wear off? :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Wasn't driving well (very sluggish) and he changed one of the O2 sensors.
Then, it overheated so first he changed the thermostat. Not long until it overheated again and he changed the fan clutch. It was running very nicely for a few days!
Now it is not overheating but is continueing to run very poorly and will still smell hot? It is very sluggish, has a loud roaring noise, almost like an airplane taking off, and misses some when driving...or maybe hesitates is a better way to describe it. Occasionaly there is white smoke out the back, which I have mostly noticed after driving on the highway vs. in-town. Occasionaly the check engine light comes on, primarily when it is hesitating and having to "work".
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
And I just thought of this when reading the response up there to someone else's problem: my a/c compressor doesn't kick on about half the time. I have to open the hood and "jiggle" the little cable thing that is attached to the compressor and then it kicks on and I have cold air. Could this be related to the other problems?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I just replaced the MAF sensor and am wondering if this is true becouse i need to get that Nasty Service Engine Soon Light of thank you
ross.g
Jack
I appologize in advance, this is lengthy, but to get good information I have to give a good full description.
After completely rebuilding from the stock short block- camshaft,crank shaft, pistons,and oilpump left unchanged- Reason for rebuild? Engine was over heating leading to both cylnder heads cracking, the block is not cracked as far as I can tell with three oil changes in 3 days showing no water and no subsequent loss of coolant after repair. The reason for over heating? small hidden water pump hose failure, occluded water jackets, and most likely a stuck thermostat. All from manufaturer recommended dex cool induced red-mud (a whole 'nother talk show as my wife would say). I have one last problem, (I might even know the answers to my own questions)but I'm looking for a nod from many minds or a new thought for possible causes. Current engine state description- engine starts immediately idles a little rough (truly "a little") responds great to throttle requests while in park- with only one noise- valve lifters... fairly certain it's not piston slap but honestly it's not as much of a tick as I'd like for that and one piston head top was damaged missing a small piece from the top (not ideal to leave unchanged but believe it or not you cant drop the oil pan on this truck to get to the connecting rod without pulling the engine. There is no removable cross member like the service manual description it's permanent wishbone suspension member. I tryed to save a buck (dumb move) by cleaning the valve lifters in parts cleaner, they were oil soaked before installation and tested with a oil syringe for obstructions (not perfect but they passed oil from one orrifice to the other) new crane lifters are now on the way along with a gasket set...again! Finally to the problem; When I put it in drive... and again only in drive... it hesitates to accelerate- no back fire- no apparent engine stumble just a spongey gas pedal to the floor with little throttle response a sense of lost commpresion. The only sensors etc. NOT replaced are IAC, TPS, MAF,Fuel pressure regulator, injectors and the O2 sensors. I have the $300+ factory gm service manuals and have followed them closely with procedure, order and torque specs. Now... how I think I jacked it up and what I think is wrong. When I flushed the block I noticed all too late that a perfect arch stream of water was flowing directly into the exhaust pipe. Secondly, the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe connection uses a round doughnut (ball joint type) metal gasket, in order to hold them in place while I hooked up the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold I used indian head gasket sealer on one side of the doughnut. Of course after the initial start the heat caused off-gassing from the gasket sealer through the exhaust. What I think about that? I cooked my O2 sensors- all three and the catlytic converter. Given the current condition and problem presented does this make sense to any one else? I'd rather start there than replace hundreds of dollars of sensors one at a time. Thanks so very much for your time.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
How many miles on the engine?
Since I changed to the Goodyear belt I have had no noises in over 3 months. Seems to be fixed.