Chevrolet Blazer Noises and Sounds

tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
I am consolidating discussions related to those mysterious sounds and noises we all experience with our vehicles.

tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper


  • jenrxrnjenrxrn Member Posts: 1
    I just had a new power steering pump and lines replaced, along with a flush of the system. My truck is now making a wheezing sound when I touch the gas pedal and turn. The mechanics say this is normal for "some" new pumps, and state it can last for up to 500 miles... is this true? and can anyhting be done about it... there were NO noises before it was replaced.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the fluid level - sounds like its low so add to the proper fill line.
  • geemick53geemick53 Member Posts: 4
    I have a clunking noise ,seems to be coming from right side front wheel area. It happens after you are fully stopped, when you go to accelerate you hear the clunk.Right wheel lower ball joint was changed, all others seemed tight. Mechanic checked out front end and could not find anything he thinks is worn enough to cause this clunk.
    There is also a buzzing noise coming from behind the instrument cluster panel. The gearshift indicator on cluster panel don't light up to show you what gear you are in .
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    GM has a bulletin 52-15-01 on this and it maybe as simple as adding a little cone shaped washer to the bolt where the hood hinges open - yes it shifts and clunks as the hood shifts. GM part #12383460 and you need 2, 1 for each side. To see if thats it open hood and insert small rag in hinge area between hood and fender, close carefully and test drive - no noise, add the washer. If not then check the brake calipers for sloop and grease the slide pins. If not that loose fender or door hinge pins, etc.
    Next, buzzing behind drivers side araea could be another simple one - the PCV vibrating and if your throttle cable has a broken plastic holddown at the rear of the intake it now hits the PCV and thats it - add a zip tie to the bracket and cable on the rear of the intake. If pass side could be the problem with the multifunction switch in the steering column and it makes the flasher and blinker relays vibrate behind the glove bow so when it happens if back there carefully bend the top left inside of glove box so it drops past the stop and look/feel/listen to the relays.
    Last, replace the bulb per your owners manual for the gears.
  • kenagirlkenagirl Member Posts: 4
    Last year I purchased a 98 Chevy Blazer. I like my truck. I liked it when the gas pump went (IN the car wash, timing was fabulous)... I still liked it when the starter went (drier this time, happened at work)... and I liked it until last Friday when I took it for its first inspection with its new owner, yours truly. My Blazer failed with flying colors, namely those of my face when I saw the estimate to get the magic sticker. I need an idler arm (87.00 semolians), and I need to replace the left front hub and bearing (357.00 semolians), plus a couple of hours of labor, all to the tune up of 625.00 USD. In addition, the back tires are oversized, and larger than the front tires, and I am told that this would destroy my 4WD if I used it (I haven't) and damage my transmission. Questions: 1) are the prices appropriate? 2) am I going to be looking at my left front tire speeding down the road without me if I don't get this repair done immediately? 3) I have been told both that the tire size difference may or may not wreck havoc if I dare to put the truck in 4 wheel drive. Which is it? Glad to get a couple of tires so all are the same size, but I want to make sure I must. I was asked 150.00 for the new tires. I welcome any advice you may have, as what I know about vehicles one can fit in a pinhead, :blush: but I do like my Blazer very much and would like to keep it. Sincerely and willing to learn,
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    87.00 semolians

    BTW, those are simoleons! :)

    tidester, host
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    98 so assume about 80-100k miles and yes thats normal for hubs (other will go within the next year I'd guess). Lower ball joints are also a know failure area (if held in with rivets original if bolts replacements), then the lower intake gasket leak by 100k and your coolant drops(flush every 3 years min and watch it - Dex cool does not last as they say) and get a Stant radiator cap and new thermostat if not done already. By the low 100s the fuel pump may get weak or fail and starting then running stops. Thats the big problems on all these. Normal items are brakes and alternators. That starter probably had a bad solenoid mounted on top of it (comes as one unit most places) and thta was probably not cheap either and 4wds are a pain to change (note to others that most auto electric shops that do alternators and starters mainly have a separate solenoid for these for $25).
    Finally, the 4 tires must match on a 4wd or you will eat the transfer case up when you go to 4wd - front driveshaft always turns on these and 4wd engages the pass side axle coupler. I use the original Uniroyals on mine and they are about $100 each and ride is better than many others unless you are going to Michelins.
    Good luck.
  • geemick53geemick53 Member Posts: 4
    Just found out that the clunking noise was caused by a loose motor mount. I thought ball joint or wheel hub too. They have all been replaced before. My other problem was my engine blew a few weeks ago. Had a rebuilt in the truck. It blew because there is a problem with 4.3 engines. The intake manifolds leak,gaskets go bad.If the fluid leaks bad enough to mix in with the oil ,it will contaminate your engine. It is caused by the Dex-Cool they use in the engines. There are also several class action law suits out there about this problem. Chevy knows about thiese problems but refuses to do anythng about it. Chevy did my intake manifold about 8 months ago. I was told if they would have flushed the engine out better my engine might not have went bad. This problem destroys your lower end of the engine whipping out the bearings.There is a garage here that tells anyone with this problem that 7 out of 10 enginges with this problem . After getting the intake fixed usually still go bad. I have talked to several mechanics and they all know about this problem. I called Chevy about this ,but they don't want to know anything about it. I contacted one of the lawyers in the class action law suit,told them my story.
    Thanks for your input.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    I,ve had a few bad ones too usually the drivers side rubber separates and when you are in drive and power brake the engine lifts up then that takes the other side out. Sounds like yours was loose bolts. Some of the intake replacements the guys are over torqueing the bolts and a GM bulletin on that destroying the lower crank bearings. 96up is 12 ft-lbs and all earlier was like 35 and if you do the 96up at 35 goodby engine. Ask your shop what they torque to! That lower intake leak has trashed lots of motors. Sorry, don't waste your energy on a lawsuit - will make you pissed off for nothing - GMs too big - only an opinion .
    All owners should fill the coolant reservior to the Hot full line when its cold and always look at it on a regular basis - as soon as a drop is seen (same temp each time) then check for a coolant leak.
  • triggermantriggerman Member Posts: 1
    2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4, gets a rythmic knocking sound while turning right, seems to come from the left tire. Don't get any sound at all turning left.

    Sound occured before changing upper and lower ball joints on both sides, new brake pads recently installed in the front (rotors good), neither the ball joints or brake pads have made any change in the noise.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the 1 piece hub - turn right pressure on left. Jack the front up under the lower control arm so the cv axle turns and turn the wheel and feel/listen for noise. Also at 1200 and 0600 (top and bottom) shake the wheel and feel for play and look to see if its the hub - look behind the cv axle at the hub bearing. Hub about $150-180 then you need an 18mm box end, and some time to do. My 01 went out at 90k.
  • jdoppjdopp Member Posts: 2
    I have the same noise. I tried jacking it up (both sides) and could not hear any grinding. I replaced the passenger side hub (that is where the noise sounded like it was coming from). The new one that I put on spun much more freely than the one I took off. However after putting the new one on, I still have the noise. Now when I turn the wheel to the left the noise goes away, however when turned right or straight the noise is loud. Does this mean the driver's side hub also needs to be changed?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Hard to pinpoint noises but yes, that would be common if turning and grinding. Is it grinding or clunking (lower ball joints clunk). Did you pull on the wheel (holding top and bottom)and see if any play - if so could be bearing/hub if steering not moving - you can look at the backside of the bearing by the CV axle and if it has play its bad. But, are the brakes/calipers/rotors OK - noise mostly when braking of course. As a standard best practice when one hub goes the other is close behind so I now do both - about $150-180 for Timco or BCA - stay away from any $100 bargin ones! Also a CV axle failing makes noise so see if the outer boots are ripped and grease all over flung around - you will see a mess of it. If all that isn't it check the U-joints on the drive shaft for play but usually over 100k before those fail.
  • kenagirlkenagirl Member Posts: 4
    Thank you... good thing I gave them a check...

    PS: Evidently Semolians are Mardi Gras Indian Warriors... just found that out... and now on to the cataclysmic converter lessons.

  • kenagirlkenagirl Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for your advise. I will be taking care of current repairs in about 3 weeks, and will be driving very slowly until then, as now the steering wheel begins to shake at 45mph (was 60...) However, both the starter and fuel pump are behaving. (The truck has 110K miles under its belts, so I will be adding the maintenance work you mentioned to the list of to do's as well...)
    Very much appreciated,
    Kenagirl of the right lane. :D
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    One good bit of trivia deserves another:

    The term "simoleon" was a slang term for dollars based on the name of a 17th century engraver, Simon, who designed the British sixpence coin (affectionately called "Simons" oddly enough!) combined with the name Napoleon. I don't think it was meant to be flattering but it was adopted and commonly used for some time.

    We now return to our regularly scheduled program ...! :)

    tidester, host
  • ravizraviz Member Posts: 1
    Triggerman, my '98 Blazer 4X4 is starting to do the EXACT same thing (clunking while turning right). Did you ever get
    to the bottom of this?
  • aubreydaubreyd Member Posts: 7
    I also had this problem with a 97 Blazer and we found that the aftermarket lower ball joints had loosened off.It was just a matter of tightening the bolts back up.Once that was done a complete check on the front end confirmed everything else was serviceable.
  • raidergregraidergreg Member Posts: 2
    92 fullsize blazer pinging when I accelerate at 30 plus,replaced egr ,no check engine lite on,need help
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Been awhile for these with a 350 and TBI.
    All the vac lines and the vac actuator for the EGR work? Timing set right? Could be dirty pistons/valves or a clogged exhaust also.
  • skruphiskruphi Member Posts: 3
  • raidergregraidergreg Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, for info I replaced egr A month ago I will check vacumm lines
  • stocktonmomma2stocktonmomma2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Chevy Blazer. It has around 60,000 miles on it. Just recently when it's is 4hi it makes a noise. The only way I can explain it is like a popping noise. It makes this noise about every 10second or so while in 4hi. It is the 2hi 4hi 4 low, 3 push button on the dash. Does anyone have any idea what this could be. A friend said it sounds like an axle or U joint. I just wanna know what I am looking at repair wise, and if it has to be done NOW or if I will be fine for a little while as long as it's not in 4 wheel drive.

    Thanks for any help anyone can offer.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    So 4Hi - if on dry pavement is probably the wheel hopping as the drivetrain is binding. 3 button part time systems are not designed for pavement ops unless snow/ice or dirt roads. Look under at the CV axles also and see if grease is coming out of the boots. Only other would be the vac line down to teh transfer case or teh 3 port switch is leaking so the front axle coupler is only partly engaging.
  • nascarman56nascarman56 Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like maybe a u-joint,CV Shaft,carraige bearing???
    I don't know where to start and don't have a lot of $$$$ to put out for repairs. Guess I will take it to a guy who is considered a good mech? Got to be careful of taking it to just anyone nowadays!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Are you asking about a specific problem with your Blazer?
    Need more info: year, 2wd/4wd, problem, sounds, when/where, etc to try and help.
  • pgurganuspgurganus Member Posts: 12
    my 2000 chevy blazer is making a sound like a humming or a whining only when rolling tranny not slipping has proper level fluid changed all ball joints idle arm the place i took it did trying to get some help elemitaing this problem i think personally it can be 1 of 4 things and that is either the tranny,rearend fluid or going out ,possibely a bad tire,wheel berring can some one please help me im trying to bring it to get done today but i dont want them to fix things that are not wrong with it id like to know what to tell them to fix...they want to rotate tires but i dont think it is the tires it is a deep humming like a rearend or axel...please help me to know what its possibley gona be causing this so i can bring it to the place today and get her fixed
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    You have to narrow the area its coming from down - this is a Chevy so could be lots of things! Is AC off as it occurs? Brakes applied its goes away? Turning more or less? Engine rpms more or less noise? Mileage and 4wd?
  • pgurganuspgurganus Member Posts: 12
    ya ac off or on dosent matter brakes dosent matter ither it still does rpm probs.tranny seems to be biting fine i am gona look in to the rear end at the fluid first .lack of u tell me what kinda tool i need to get the plug out and ill go to the local hardware store get it and some gear oil incase it is low and cross that off the list if not prob..thx
  • pgurganuspgurganus Member Posts: 12
    forgot to say it is a 2 wheel dr and turning dosent bother it ither side u turn to still does it
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, repairdog, here's one that has me stumped. '99, 2wd, 78K. Runs great, no performance issues or CEL.

    At 1600-1800 RPM under load, the engine has a light rattle-like sound coming from the front of the engine. Does not occur without a load. I have heard lots of sounds from engines but this is not one I have heard before. Can be sitting still (power brake in drive or reverse) and it isn't coming from the A/C. I figure the engine shifting on the mounts is maybe causing something to touch? Tranny line maybe???

    Ever hear this on one of yours?


  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Should be the simple 3/8" drive racket or extension end - just the square end fits in the plug. Remove, and check with your finger fill till comes out with 80w-90 gear oil unless yours has been changed and is other type now. To drain need a suction gun or remove the rear cover, clean it off, new gasket and sealer, replace cover and fluid (about 2 qts). Again U-joints are more common above 100k miles, then if 4wd the transfer csae also has fluid and has 2 plugs so easy (3 button csae is red Dexron and 4 button is blue GM only syn fluid 2qts). Transmissions are normally red Dexron.
    The rear brake calipers do get hung up and the slides need greasing inside the brackets (have to pull off caliper, then pop the rubber boot off the bracket and pull slide bolts out,grease ,reinstall - this is a commonly missed procedure that causes the rears to drag and often eat one side of a rear rotor. Bigger bolts are 18mm not a standard size for most wrech or socket packages you buy but GM uses it alot!
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yes - 2 common areas:
    1. 99-01 have the secondary air injection system that includes a check valve on each exhaust manifold and they internally rust out and are spring loaded so look at them and the rubber L hose for burn out and if you tap on them and they rattle thats it. Valves are sold at all stores but hoses GM only. They always are rusted/frozen on so you have to remove the 2 small bolts on the exh and change the valve out of the vehicle in a vise or GM has the valve and pipe new so much quicker - no vise forget it.

    2. PCV rattle can also occur if you replaced with a cheap aftermarket or the throttle cable has a plastic mount on the rear drivers side of intake that breaks off, cable contacts PCV, noise occurs - zip tie the cable back in place all gone noise - silly but true - common after lower intake gasket done.
  • pgurganuspgurganus Member Posts: 12
    ok repair dog well i took out the plug and cannot feel fluid in there so i went and got 2 bottles of lucas 80w 90 and put in but still noise im thinking i wated too long and need to get the read rebuilt or can it b somthing else :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Thanks for the feedback. Looks like a rainy weekend ahead for us here in central Texas, so I will pull the little beast into the garage and see what I can find.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, I have been all over that little sucker, and there is no air pump, or valves or anything else in the way of plumbing on the exhaust. So, I checked the emissions label under the hood and it doesn't show one. This blazer was built in 2/99 and sold originally in Texas. Maybe that has something to do with not having the extra controls???

    A neighbor mechie heard me describing the noise and he said to check the heat shield on top of the cat. He has seen a couple of these where the spot welds that hold the shield on will pop loose and make a soft rattling sound when the exhaust system flexes under engine load. I will check that out this weekend.
  • pgurganuspgurganus Member Posts: 12
    ok i have come to the conclusion that the rearend is shot and will be locking up in a few miles....whats cheeper junkyard,getsomeone to put in,or get her rebuilt
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Price a rebuild if you have a good drivetrain shop around. I went the other way on a half ton Chevy and found out later I could have had Austin Drivetrain rebuild for less than half what I paid.

    That, and you know what you have when you're done. Junkyard diff has no warranty.
  • pgurganuspgurganus Member Posts: 12
  • leftfootleftfoot Member Posts: 3
    I have 95 :confuse: :lemon: that made a clunking from the drivers side front wheel, turns out that worn out control arm bushing was the cause, letting the wheel flop back and forth enough to make a noise when going over bumps or turning.
  • bklynblazer02bklynblazer02 Member Posts: 7
    Hello. Hope all is well.
    I have a 2002 4wd Blazer 4x4 with about 80k on it. Truck runs very well.

    I am noticing a rattle in my dash when driving. Bumps or no bumps. It is not the hood spring washes cause I done fixed that. The rattle seems to come from the vents where the air blows out from defroster. When I put my hand lightly on the vent it stops.

    So tell me anything I can do? Or should I crank up the AC DC?

    By the way the last time I got really great advice.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    That vent cover is held in by metal clips. One may be off or someone dropped something down there. Also in the center is the sensor for the haedlight on/off auto feature also clipped on (from underneath). You have to be gentle or the cheap plastic vent will shatter but dealer sells new ones. Then there are many screws holding the lower plastic dash trim on and then the speakers also are screwed in. If its not those see if it there in recirc only when the fan runs open to the cabin (look behind the glove box) and some piece of junk/leaf dropped into it.
  • bklynblazer02bklynblazer02 Member Posts: 7
    Wow. Thanks for the info. I am getting familiar with my blazer. So were are the metal clips you talk of? Can I access them from the top of the vent without taking off the whole dash?

    I do not see any screws for the lower plastic dash. How do I access them if I have to.

    I tightened up the speakers. I may have made them too tight. Can they be too tight.

    Do I have to take the glove box out to see that area behind it?

    Sorry for so many questions. This is my first blazer. I really love my truck just getting to know her.


    Thanks for your reply.

  • bklynblazer02bklynblazer02 Member Posts: 7
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    The ones down underneath that hold the lower extra plastic - kick panels. The clips are on the defrost plastic and have to pop it off to get to. As for overtightening only if you strip them out are they too tight. Glove box remove all contents and then reach behind the left side with it open half way and grab the box conrner and pull in to get past the stop then it just hangs open and swings all the way down.
  • pavehawk87pavehawk87 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 88 full size blazer, and sometimes in 2Hi, I get noise in the front end (I can't describe it too well, but it sounds like something is rotating and one part of the something is striking something else). Usually, the noise won't start until about 20-25 mph, but has waited until as fast as 50 mph to start. After it starts, it does not stop until the car slows to about 5-10 mph, and the tranny loudly drops back to 1st gear. The odd thing is, if I shift to 4Hi, drive a short distance, and shift back to 2Hi, the noise quits altogether, and usually will not start again until the vehicle has beeen stopped for a while. Any ideas?
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Check the auto hubs and make sure they are unlatching (have to backup after going back to 2wd). Then check the transfer case and front diff fluids, and the front driveshaft u-joints and the outer king pins (front axle joints). Have you greased the front wheel bearings.
  • salesataksalesatak Member Posts: 2
    blazer ran fine till I took it in for servicing. They replaced my distributure, and 2 motor mounts...NOW my gas pedal vibrates like hell....had it back in the shop 3 times, and they cant fix it...can anyone help??
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    Yep, the control arm or main A-arm bushings as well as the sway bars are all possible areas after 10 years. Good you have a smooth ride again. Lower ball joints remain the #1 cause on the 4wds.
  • repairdogrepairdog Member Posts: 948
    A new distributor should have smoothed out everything but my guess is the rear plastic for the cap screw broke off as thats a common defect on these - then the cap can't be secured back on and a rebuilt fixes that about $75 part.

    As for the vibration are you sure its the pedal or are you hearing a buzzing vibration and feeling it in the pedal - look at the PCV on drivers side valve cover and see if the throttle cable is against it - common as the rear plastic push pin breaks off so secure it to the upper intake with a zip tie and fixed. Or replace the PCV if its vibrating still.
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