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Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling



  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    Thanks for your help.

    I want to avoid having to take the car to an a/c shop because, I just spent alot of $ ( the full resale value of the car ) for, towing, electrical diagnosis and the replacing of a major electrical part ( the engine was turning over fine but there was no response from the engine for starting ) and a full tune up.

    I found out afterwards that there are no adjustments on this car with a full tune-up. I could have easily done the tune-up myself.

    I pressed in the freon loading pin ( it looks like a tire air valve ) and there was no release of freon, so it seems that all the freon is gone from a leak in the a/c system. I found a replacement for the r-12. It's called freeze12.

    They say it's 100% environmentally safe and it's approved by the EPA as totally legit and legal and it cost alot less than r-12. They also say it works very well.

    What's the likely a/c area where the freon leaked out? With no freon in the a/c system the compressor won't turn on and that's what set off the low pressure switch, right?

    For $50 with shipping, you can get their Freeze12 ( r-12 replacement ) a/c refill kit. It has 36 oz of freeze12, 2 oz of oil, 2 oz of leak sealant, conversion filler valve and hose, and pressure guage. The Town Car takes 40 oz.

    They also have a major leak sealant for $20 more. I am hoping that the regular sealant will be enough.

    They also say that you can simply add the freeze12 to the system with no other preparations because freeze12 is so compatible with r-12.

    Where is the low pressure switch so I can reset it or does the low pressure switch reset itself when I fill the system with freon.

    Will the 2 oz of sealer do the trick so the freon stays in the a/c system?

    Should I add more than 2 oz of sealer or 2oz of oil for a better running a/c? You can buy extra 2 oz cans of oil or sealer for $5 each.

    Do you recommend the freeze12 major leak sealer which sounds very good and it seals leaks in metal too. Could the compressor be one of the areas where the freon leaked out?

    I was referring to the regular ( not the a/c ) vent air temperature being cooler by adding water to the very low coolant reservoir.
  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    Is there a way to test that the compressor works ok before filling the system with the whole kit? I wouldn't want to waste parts of the kit if the compressor is not ok.

    Would just 1 or 2, 12 oz cans of freon without the oil or sealer give enough system pressure just to test that the compressor does work or goes on? You can buy the freeze 12 in single 12 oz cans for around $5 each.

    What are the different ways that the compressor won't work; clutch, electrical short, a leak, etc?

    I have read here and there about adjusting the air gap if the clutch is not kicking in.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    You will have to find the leak or leaks in your systems. I am not familiar with Freeze 12. At the auto parts store, you should be able to buy a product with a color agent which you put into your system. After the system is pressureized, the color agent will leak out in the area where the system has failed. You can override the low pressure switch by disconnecting it and placeing a small wire in the contacts at the wire end of the connector. Since the system has to have oil in it as well as freon I would not run the compressor for more that a few minutes at a time with the wire in the connector. It has been my experience that most leaks in the 91 Town Car A/C system are at the compression seal fittings in the tubing and at the compressor. The compression seal fitting areas are oily and the area behind the clutch on the compressor is oily when they are leaking. I believe that your best bet is an A/C tech. Do you have the tools to work on the system? For example: tools to seperate the compression connectors, a vacum pump, pressure gages, etc.
  • I am trying to get the answer to question number 30. I am having the same problem but can't find the answer?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Check the electrical connection to the motor. There are several other items that you have to check. Check the A/C blower fuse under the dash, there is a A/C relay that you have to check under the hood and then there is a A/C motor resistor under the hood.
  • I inherited a 93 Lincoln Towncar Signature series. The A/C would only work on high then it started blowing out the dash and floor vents when you accelerated but would go back to the vents when you slowed down. Now the A/C will not blow out the vents at all, it will only blow out on the dash and floor vents. I replaced the A/C heater control and it blew out the vents for about 5 minutes then started blowing out the dash and floor vents again. Any suggestions?
  • 91tc91tc Posts: 4
    I've never worked on an auto a/c system.
    I'll be checking those a/c tools out.
    I'll figure out where the low pressure switch is. Would one 12oz can of freon be enough to do the color leak test for a few minutes at a time? How much time in between the 3 minute testing to be safe for the compressor? I will be checking out the areas you mentioned for the leaks. Would those areas still show signs of oil or would they be dried out by now? This is the best ? What % of any leak or the ones that you mentioned, be sealed by regular leak sealer? Does the sealer work? Would it be ok to add 2 cans of regular leak sealer to the system and would it do a better job than adding only 1 can of sealer. To what degree can a/c leaks be sealed with a/c leak sealer additives. Have you used them, have they ever worked? Is there a kind that works the best? They say that Freeze12 is very compatible with r-12 so you don't have to do alot of the prep that's needed when changing from r-12 to r-144. I haven't gotten the Freeze12 kit yet. I'm sure there is some prep, but maybe not much, other than to add the 1 can of 12oz freon, 1 can of 2oz sealer, 1 can of 2oz oil, and more freon to 40 oz. system pressure, as it says on there website. They also sell an optional heavy leak sealer to add into the system, that they say will seal larger leaks in rubber, plastic, metal, etc. But it's expensive. What is the vacuum pump needed for? Is that used to increase the system to working pressure using air instead of freon for leak testing, and for evacuating the system? You have helped alot so far on this subject.
  • Hey paulw3, i had to change the ?blower motor resistor? << i believe that's the proper name lol !! That fixed the problem Good Luck!!
  • I have a 2001 town car. My a/c clutch was engaging too often.Went to a/c shop,no leaks,recharged system,lots of cold air,a/c clutch still engaging too often. Causes the engine rpms to increase while engaging. Replaced a/c clutch relay fuse with no results. Any suggestions to my problem?
  • Is the ac blower, around $70. relaced that on mine about three times already. my car is a 98 with 340,000 miles
  • I inherited a 93 Towncar and the AC will only blow out of the dash and floor vents. I replaced the AC/Heater dash control. I was told there may be a vacuum leak, can anyone tell me where the vacuum hoses are located. If anyone knows anything else this could be your advice is appreciated.
  • What is the best way to get to and replace a heater blender motor in a 94 town car. Thanks
  • salata87salata87 Posts: 1
    In my 99 town car fan only working on highest blowing, when manually trying put on lower position after while go to highest blowing. Auto trying switch to lower but without success.Any advice is appreciated.
  • ayame1999ayame1999 Posts: 3
    My 1993 town car overheats when I turn on the air condition. The temperture gauge goes up after the a/c is on for 15-20 minutes and when I turn the a/c off the temperture returns to normal in 2-3 minutes. The car doesn't overheat no other time.
  • kebell41kebell41 Posts: 1
    My heater and AC work fine except the airflow will not change from defrost to any other setting wether on auto or manual. I've read online that this may be the plenum door not moving. If this is the case then I need to have some information on how to tackle this problem. I have a 1993 Lincoln Town car Executive with the climate control. Thanks for any and all help. :)
  • ribstoneribstone Posts: 1
    This appears to be a vacuum leak, but it is really hard to find. Any suggestions?
  • doryc11doryc11 Posts: 3
    I replaced the AC/Heater control in the dash and it now works perfectly. A friend took the control out first and tested the vacuum going into it and it was good. I bought the control off of EBay.
  • bosompalbosompal Posts: 5
    A/C blows cold then will blow a warmer and moist feeling air. Any suggestions on my problem?
  • rockin5rockin5 Posts: 1
    I smell antifreeze ony when the climate control system is activated..any suggestions?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    You smell antifreeze because the heater core is leaking. This is an expensive fix because the dash board has to be removed to get at the heater core which only runs $50.00 to $70.00. Labor and hoses under the hood, $900.00. I use radiator stop leak and I have had no problems.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Regarding the temperature change, the internal temperature sensor may not be functioning properly. I don't understand why you would be feeling moist air. Do you smell antifreez when this happens?
  • lmh53lmh53 Posts: 1
    When the interior temp comes close to the exterior while in A/C, my blower fluctuates significantly until it shuts down. My dealer found issues with the baffle doors and replaced those, but the problem with the fluctuation persists. They tested another 2007 on their lot and it had the same problem. It doesn't affect the performance of the car but is incredibly annoying. I purchased the car in August of '08 and and it took me nearly a year with multiple visits to the dealer to get the problem to reproduce. They claim to be investigating but I have heard nothing. It doesn't seem right that this luxury car should have this kind of problem with no fix. Any thoughts?
  • well this will be the first of what im sure will be many posts. lincoln lover here, have had a 79 townecoupe, 89 town car and now i went with a 95 town car 130 K miles, my cooling question has to do with the unit blowing nice and hard, but only hot air, could still hear the compressor engaging but only blowing hot air, real hot, and today went underneath and couldnt hear the compressor engage anymore. i live in houston, and needless to say no A/C pretty much sucks. i've read that its the blend door actuator, so my question is if anyone has the ford part number for that part? and if that person feels that it truly could be that issue. thanks in advance for any help.
  • i have a 1998 town car that is'nt blowing any hot air, ther are no leaks, no thermostat problems, and the heater core is ok. the heater would flucuate for a time between hot and cold, but now i get all cold air. i heard some grinding noise under the dash for awhile that sounded like the system trying to open or close some vents, but that noise has disappeared along with the heat. the control head i replaced this summer when i was'nt getting any a/c, but that was'nt the problem. it was a valve under the dash that was faulty, and cost me $800 to replace, i don't have the money for another repair like that. HELP SOMEONE!!!!!
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    It is the same problem. The blend door actuator is stuck in the A/C position. It is a $49.00 part that requires that the dash to be removed to be installed. The labor is about $95.00 per hour. Take the car back to the same folks that repaired it before and see if they had some kind of warranty when they did the previous install.
  • is there anywhere i can get a schematic on the actuator door location? i'm asking this because, if i don't get any help from the dealer who did the previous install, i'll try and do it myself. hoping i don't have to buy a repair manual to the job. any suggestions??
  • I have a 1995 Town Car that needs a new blender door actuator. In order to replace it the dash needs to be removed. Does anyone know how to remove the dash? I have got it part way loose but it seems stuck/fastened at the lower sides and also to the vent system. I have already removed the 4 screws up by the windshield. If someone has a breakdown as to how to remove the dash, it would be most helpful.
  • I went to the local dealer's parts counter and asked to see the location, cost and availability of part. He showed me the part in relationship to other items in the nearby location on his computer screen, very helpful.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    In respect of your opinions I'm asking for your input on this question.

    If all you get is cold air from the heater, would setting the AC to 72 enable warm air to enter the cabin from the AC ducts?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Euphonium, On that model Town Car, when the blend door actuator jams, it makes no difference where you set the Automaic Temperature Control (ATC). (The brand new actuators jam too sometimes.) For some reason, it does not fail middle way. It fails in the all hot or all cold position. In the winter, it seems that it fails in the cold position and in the summer, you got it, it fails in the heat position. The system on your Town Car is not the same. The Town Car that you have is mostly vaccuum operated. As long as the control unit on the hot hose at the fire wall on your car is okay and the ATC is working properly you should not have the blend door actuator problem. It seemed to be a good idea to design the blend door system that way, but the actuator is not robust enough handle the constant back and forth movement required to make the system work automatically. An indication that the unit is getting ready to fail is a constant clicking under the dash that sounds similar to an activated turn signal. It is a time consuming, laborous job to replace/install the unit. You have to take the front panel off, drop the steering wheel, move the dashboard, etc. I have not seen a post which indicates that the actuator can be replaced without moving the dashbord.
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