Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling



  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Thank you for your perceptive reply as your sharing of knowledge on these postings is much appreciated by all, I'm sure. :)
  • i had the blend door acuator replaced in april of this year because i was'nt getting any cold air when i put the a/c on, now i get cold air when i need the hot air. the dealer told me it was a different acuator door thats bad , the question i have is, am i being told a b.s. story? are there 2 diiferent acuator doors for the same job?
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    The blend door actuator controls the A/C Air Temperature Control Door. The car also has a Heater and A/C Air Inlet Duct Door, Heater Air Damper Door, and a Windshield Defroster Door. The only door the I have had problems with, like you have described with your car, is the door that is controlled by the blend door actuator. I have had this same problem on several Town Cars. When trying to chase this gremlin, I checked the other doors with a vacuum pump. The dealer should do the same. These doors are conrolled with air motors and I have never had a problem with them. So yes, there are other doors in the A/C system. Since you had a major recent repair performed by this dealer on the A/C system, they should be willing to give you a break on a follow-up check and fix.
  • thanks for your help. the dealer has agreed to give me a break, . are you ready??? instead of charging me $1150 to do the job their willing "to giving me a break" and only charge me $900, swell guys, don't ya think !!!
  • thanks for your help. the dealer has agreed to give me a break, . are you ready??? instead of charging me $1150 to do the job their willing "to giving me a break" and only charge me $900, swell guys, don't ya think !!!
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Is there a shop in your area that specializes in A/C repair? They might be able to fix it for a lower price. The $900.00, give or take a few dollars, is the standard Ford/Lincoln charge for the job. I'd rather replace the air springs or cracked manifolds then to dive into the blend door actuator job. The other job that is just as bad and actually a little worse is replacing a leaking heater core on the Town Car.
  • On a related website I found a post saying that he had simply disconnected the powert to the actuator and used a screwdriver to move the door from one side to the other. He had to do this once in the spring, to deliver cool air, and once in the fall, to deliver hot air. That sounds like a workable solution for me here in central Ohio, with my otherwise wonderful 1996 Town Car. How difficult is it to locate and disconnect the power to this unit?

    I'm about go run the diagnostic test which I hope will give me more life on the actuator. It's already gone to "all cold air" after giving me the clicking and tapping as it tried to close/open these past few days. Otherwise it's time to dig up about $800 or so and get her to the dealership. My fear is that will all the bolts and screws that are involved I'll end up with a good actuator and multiple rattles & squeaks that have nothing to do with the original problem.
  • osielosiel Posts: 1
    say i have the same problem what did u do to fix that
  • eljebeljeb Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Town car, at the begining of this week it started making a buzzing noise behind the dashboard when I reached 50 mph. At the time it sounded a lot like an electric buzz. I drove the car below 50 the next day to get to work. When I left to go home, I put the car in neutral and revved the engine and could not get the sound to repeat. I then proceeded to go home via the express way, exceeding 50 mph. The sound came back. I continued to drive with the buzz persisting. A short time spent at 70 mph and I heard a popping noise and the buzzing stopped. Then I heard a sound similar to wind blowing through a tunnel comming from the dash. When I drive the car now I get a rattling noise at 30 mph that sounds like a bolt was thrown into a fan, the noise stops at 45 mph and the wind tunnel noise comes back. The noise is painfully loud and annoying. The heater has not been working this year. Last year my heat worked but the year before that it did not either. Any ideas what my noise is comming from and how I can stop it?
  • kenfowlerkenfowler Posts: 2
    2002 town car which has been great until now. Blower stopped 2 weeks ago then came back on without any intervention from me. Stopped again on Tuesday and came on once for a few seconds today. I checked the fuse under the dash and it is fine. I then went to a Tuffy a/c clinic for an assessment. They said it was the compressor needing drained and refilled but I said it was the blower and that should work regardless. He said doing what he said would fix it. Charged me $150 and it didn't. He came to me and said the blower is burnt out!!! I said that I had told him it was the blower but maybe it is just a relay or broken wire. He said the relay was also burnt out then went on to say the compressor was leaking. I told him I didn't believe him and drove off feeling scammed. When I got home, the blower came on again by itself. I don't know what to do now as it might work for a week or might not work next time I start the car. When it works, it works perfectly - any help appreciated
  • bdudleybdudley Posts: 2
    Yes,think u got scammed.Don't know how they could refill with freon without fan working.If u can disconnect wires to fan motor and use jumper wires direct from fan motor too battery and see if motor runs.Also use a test light to see if you have 12v at plug to motor.Having same problem here as you and my motor checks fine.Still trying to find problem.
  • Hi
    I'm making headway and think it is the temperature control module which is a bit difficult to do but likely to be the problem for me & only costs $50. The blower motor runs perfect when running a wire to it and I can actually get the blower going by wiggling the wires on the back of the module. Some great advice and tips on with diagrams and lots of people with previous similar issues.
    Good luck
  • Recently, I thought my ac was not working right so I took it to mech. He said they put3/10 of a pound of refrigerant in it and told me proper way to get coldest quickest is to engage "Auto" w manual override fan speed at a lower setting, and w "recirculate" engaged. Well, its been 95-100+ degrees here for the last 3 weeks and always seems to cool just fine in AM and until about 3-4 PM when its 106+.
    In AM, I just seclect auto w thermostat set for 60 (lowest setting) and recirculate off. It cools just fine and when I engage recirc it will get even colder. The Problem is, in afternoon after car has set in the Sun all day, It dosen't seem to matter what I select it just takes too long to really cool. 'Ive tried auto, 60 (coldest setting), w/o recirc off ---Manual, dash vents only, 60, and recirc on, but seems no matter which combination of settings I select it just takes too long when the outside temp is above 95. Any thoughts, anyone?
  • I bought an 05 TC a few months ago and have not been all that happy with the ride...which is suppose to be one of the best in luxury cars. It just seems to "bounce" rather than "float" down the road. I'm not talking about weak shocks type of bounce, just, I can feel every crack or bump in the road like overinflated tires (which they are not). When the car is fully loaded ( 4 people)
    it rides a lot better. I've tried turning off the air suspension for comparison but it doesn't seem to make any noticeable difference. Any thoughts anyone?
  • I have a 98 Towncar. Last week the a/c started blowing hot air and it sounds like a small motor is running and some kind of flap is either opening and closing or it is rotating and opening and then flopping shut. When I turn on the A/C it is cold for about 2-5 seconds and then turns max hot. The vent system seems to be working as it will go from floor to vent to defrost, etc.... the temp is always on max hot however. Also, the motor sound and flapping noise even runs while the system is turned off. The motor is sounding weaker and weaker each day. Anyone have any economical ideas? From what I've read on here so far, anything related to the a/c system is a nightmare and very expensive. Thanks.
  • HI,
    I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car. The #6 15 amp fuse keeps blowing. It runs the EATC and it's pretty cold in Illinois in the Any ideas if there is a short or a bad relay. If I turn the key to power the car (not starting, just to get power) it works without blowing. As soon as I turn start the car up it blows right away.
    And suggestions?
  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 town car, When i set the ac at 60 degrees it takes 8-10 minutes to start blowing cold air this happens every time i turn on the AC. does anyone know how to fix my problem?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Suggest you have a technician check for the correct amount of Freon or R34. If the system is operating on a low volume of coolant, you can burn out the compressor.
  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Posts: 3
    the system has been recharged but it wont blow cold air for no sooner than 8-10 minutes every time
  • johnnyv2johnnyv2 Posts: 3
    I had my ac filled and after shutting the car off the AC wont blow cold untill 8-10 minutes pass. he thinks there might be a sensor in the dash area or in back of the radio that might need canging. Any thoughts or fixes would be a great help. Thakl You.
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    I as told that Lincoln did not want to blow hot air out until it as cooler before blowing any air. Same on the heater. I usually rolled my windows don hill driving to help it work faster. Maybe I was being fed a line but that is the mine works in a 2002.
  • Can anyone school me on how to change the plugs on my '05 Town Car? I looked at it and it doesn't look at all like plugs changes I have done on other cars. The plugs seem to have an electrical "clip" atop a plug tower, which seems wedged under what looks like the fuel rail for the injectors. Is changing the plugs on this care really this complicated? Is it a DIY or do I actually need to take it to a mechanic? Please advise. Thanks to all who respond to this shade tree mech.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    What you see is "coil on plug" technology, which Ford embraced in the 90's, and other manufacturers have done the same, however, GM and Chrysler lag behind, still producing some cars with plug wires.

    This new technology provides a small coil for every plug, located on top of it. They must be removed first, to get to the plug. Very efficient, no leakage of voltage from wires, no radio interference. More expensive though, and harder to tune up. How many miles do you have on the car? The plugs will last an easy 100,000 miles.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    Just did this on my 99 TC. One of the things you should probably do is replace the coils if you're going to the trouble to change the plugs. You can buy a complete coil set (8) on ebay for less than $80 shipped. Dealer price will be about $90/each. Another thing to look for is if you have any oil around the plug boots when you pull 'em off, you should go ahead and change the valve cover gaskets. If you don't the oil will eventually foul the coils and cause the engine to miss pretty bad even if the plugs are brand new. Ask me how I know.... ;-( If it's missing now, you may already have that problem. Changing the valve cover gaskets is not as easy as you might think. I'm a gear head and opted to have the valve cover gaskets done at the local Pep Boys. $400 labor and about $90 for the gaskets (they're not cheap).
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    That the plugs go for 100,000, I choose to take it to my mechanic who has the correct tools to do the job correctly. If you already have the tools, fine, but subtract the cost of the tools from the mechanics fee and he looks like the choice to change. He also will be observant to find other possible areas that need attention i.e. valve cover gaskets and so on. Also, his work is guarenteed. Who guarentees your work? ;)
  • mileage is 94k, which is why I am considering the maintenance. It idles just a bit rough when cold but smooths out when engines warms. So, is this something a non-techy can do or should shy away from??? thanks for the help!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    So, is this something a non-techy can do or should shy away from???

    I'm a fair mechanic, and I wouldn't even try to do it.
  • w9r1w9r1 Posts: 15
    You can do the plugs if you have the spark plug wrench (common) and a wratchet with extension. When I put the plugs back in I use put a rubber hose over the spark plug and get each one started that way by hand then torque them with a wratchet or torque wrench. You don't need special tools to do the plugs, but a torque wrench is recommended. You don't need any special tools (assuming you have a metric tool kit) to do the valve cover gaskets either, it's just that if you follow the shop manual suggestions you have to take alot of stuff off. I think if you look on you can find detailed instructions. If you don't want the expense of factory coils buy the coils on ebay QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1999Q7cMakeQ3aLincolnQ7cModelQ3aTownQ20CarQQhashZite- m4157108ff2QQitemZ280633577458QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories. Each coil has a plug that clips on and one little bolt that holds them down. After you loosen them up you can usually work then off the plugs. You can do that, just take your time. Now if ANY of the spark plugs shows any exterior oil or on the coil boots (sign of valve cover oil seepage), you should go ahead and have the valve cover gaskets changed. I'd recommend taking it to a shop. As I said before, I bought the coils (already had changed the plugs) and took my car to Pep boys. They will do the valve cover job for about $450 including the gaskets. It's not a difficult job, it just takes some time since you just have to take off a bunch of stuff including the windshield wipers and loosen the brake booster (according to the shop manual) to get to the rear valve cover bolts. After changing the plugs, the coils and the valve cover gaskets my 99 runs great.
Sign In or Register to comment.