Lincoln Town Car Heating / Cooling

likesmylinks2

I have a 1996 Town car. We can't get the dash out. My mechanic thinks it's the heater core The other mechanic thinks it's a problem w/the blender/actuator door leaking on the passenger floor and NO HEAT. I LIVE IN BLIZZARD TERRITORY. PLEASE tell me how to get the dash out? My mechanic is starting to put the screws back in and giving up. LOL I'M having so much trouble w/this. My mechanic DIED in the middle of repairing it. After taking apart most of the dash, it had to be put back together and now I'm missing screws. My 2nd mechanic's father died. We buried him this past Tuesday. HELP

scotts2005

Just bought a 2005 TC and sometimes when started and at shutoff, I here a thumping/bubbling sound coming from what appears in the dash area or engine compartment. It doesn't do this always but sure seems to be annoying. Is this something I should be concerned with? I read in the owners manual that a noise from the traction control could make noise when the igition is turned off and is normal. Is this what I'm hearing? Thanks for any and all replys.

maxeybilly

I have an 05 TC and that noise you hear is the vacuum operated blend doors on the climate control system actuating, ie, opening and closing and adjusting to whatever setting you system is set for. When an engine powers up vacuum is created and all vacuum operated devices then, in turn, are pulling that vacuum and doing whatever they are designed to do. When the engine is shut off the vacuum is lost, and the devices which depend on vac, lose their ability to maintain their settings, hence the blends doors moving, creaking, boiling, etc. It's normal, not to worry now that you understand it.

kpizura

In Auto mode, heat works fine for first 20-30 minutes. As time goes by, cabin temp. begins to drop and I have to keep increasing the temperature to maintain a comfortable cabin temp. To maintain 70-72, I will eventually need to kick the temp up to the 80's.

Any ideas?

maxeybilly

Lincolns have a bad reputation when it comes to the climate control system which is frequently NOT under control. Frequently, the blend doors don't really blend properly and most all owners know better than to try to repair the problem--its a nightmare and takes a fortune in labor costs. This heat loss also works in reverse---When AC is engaged for first time on a 100 degree day, it will work fine . But, if the car is taken on short trips--on and off again . the AC cannot recover. In other words, it loses its cooling ability and the reason why is because the heater core and the AC evaporator are right next to each other. As the engine reaches operating temp, the heater core is HOT, and ready for heat if you need it. It doesn't realize that its already 100 outside. So, the effeciency of the AC is compromised by sitting right next to the heater. So, I have noticed the heat loss problem on my 05 Lincoln too. I have noticed that if I set the heat for 90 and hit "auto" the AC will automatically engage. I then must punch AC to "OFF" in order not to compromise the heat with a cold evaporator (it doesn't know it only 23 degrees outside). One other thing you can do is to select the "heat to floor" on manual mode at first and thereby not selecting Auto, which engages the AC. Hope this helps. It's a very poor system on a really nice car. Lastly, even though it's a poor system, keep in mind that "Auto" Climate control works on a thermostat set-up just like in the house. When the Thermostat is satisfied at 72, it will shut off heat output through the vent. What you get is unheated air until the the thermometer drops below a certain degree to signal "start up again in order to get back to 72." So, how far does it have to drop before reactivating? Good question. My suspicion is that the calibration and sensitivity is also sadly lacking. If working at all, it should eventually start putting out heat to get back to 72, but probably you're going to be cold until it finally gets there, so you crank it up to 80-85. If I had known this about this system, I would never have bought my Lioncoln! I prefer one heat/cool knob that goes from blue to red, and one fan knob that goes from low to high--best arrangement even though old school.

insbob

This is my first time to post. If I do something stupid gently inform me so I will not repeat. The heat stays on. The blend door passenger side opens and closes. it will not open when controls set at blend. It only opens for floor and closes for defrost settings. it generally wants to stick open. I can see the actuator moving on the vacuum pot under dash center and under the glove box when I move the controls. No leaks Fan works but not on all settings. I am here in AZ and I am about to recharge the AC I use R 12 so I do not want the heat to fight with the AC. Got to have AC. Does anyone have an under dash schematic or parts drawing. Or a vacuum line schematic. I will post some pics very nice TC Signature Trip computer, Pillow seat leather no tears, absolutely no rust anywhere the frame paint is still shinny A arms no rust. I get 20-22 MPG at 70 MPH 87 octane

bartbarter

This is an 80s TC right?

I'd buy the actual Ford manual off ebay etc, they're usually available and inexpensive. Also perhaps check LincolnsOnLine for more info.

buzzbuzard

Under drivers dash fuze box Unplug 15a Fuze # 1 turn on key see if clicking goes away Plug Fuze back in if clicking stops run self test If it comes back removed fuze and install a 5/8 shut off valve in the upper heater hose turn it off to have AC on for Heat not great but is a cheap fix. will work on 95 to 97 Lin TC
The System will work without this fuze is power for the Blend door only the blend door is spring loaded to the full heat pos. at least you wont have to hear that click clack cluck.
Buzzy

buzzbuzard

engine side or upper Heater hose to shut off heat