Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take it back to the dealer, covered under standard warranty
  • syncrossyncros Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 accord 4 banger with 15350 mi and rear brakes are down to the squeakers dealer says this is normal as Honda has made the rear pads smaller and softer for a quieter braking experience I cannot believe Honda would knowingly do this to their reputation for superior engineering. The cost to replace rear pads is $150.00 I have had the car for 9 months and most driving is on the highway with little to no traffic. I guess I will drive my 2004 chevy truck she has 67K mi with original brakes.
  • parvizparviz Member Posts: 484
    I don't have that problem. I would not wait too long before going back to the dealer to get it fixed, not only it is annoying like you said, but also, they are more opt to fix it quicker if you go now than later, knowing that it was defective from the get go.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Member Posts: 65
    for one thing, I'd get a 2nd opinion as to what the dealer said about the brakes because I've had problems previously and found out that the dealer was wrong. as far as the replacement cost, since the mileage is so low, the warranty should cover it and due to the brakes not lasting as long as they have in the past, I'd definitely look into it.
  • ashd1ashd1 Member Posts: 14
    Bala,
    I have posted earlier on this alias (post #586) regarding the steering on my 08 Lx accord being too smooth and having less feedback than other 08 Lx Accords (exact same specs as mine) that I have driven. I had rented one for a month before I bought mine so I knew how its supposed to feel. Yes I think its a problem and no its not due to the tires or the mold release in the tires. I took it to the dealer and they said they could'nt do anything about it :(

    I think if enough of us who experience this take this up with Honda we could have a case for a recall.

    The dealer gave me some bull about letting it break in - I told them that the other 08 LXs that have a stiffer steering and more road feel were brand new too.
    I always had high expectations of Honda engineering - this is my 3rd from the Honda/Acura stable - but unless this is resolved to my satisfaction my next car will be something other than a Honda .

    The dealer will try to brush you off saying its normal - don't listen to them. I intend to pursue this further with Honda and the dealer.
  • markludmarklud Member Posts: 41
    I hope this is not a dumb question, but does the oil life indicator just go by mileage or does it actually measure oil quality? I have an EXL-V6 with 4,000 miles and it reads 50%. Does anyone else have a different reading? I can't imagine it's that sophisticated of a system to read oil quality. I'm one of those people who change oil every 3 to 4,000 miles so it pains me to wait. Also is there a website that actually show that Honda has a special "break-in" oil? Right now I plan on changing the oil every 5,000 miles. Just as an aside I think Edmunds is a terrific service to car owners and I thank all the people who write genuine opinions and experiences. It is a great help to me in order to make educated decisions.
  • classact1classact1 Member Posts: 6
    I have about 3700 miles, and my oil life says exactly 50% now too. I've had the car since 10/10/07, but virtually all the miles are local driving. I'll have the oil changed when it is up for state inspection next month.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Member Posts: 65
    I was told that Honda does indeed have a special break-in oil and that the first oil change is not recommended until the oil life indicator reaches 15%. On all cars prior to my 08 accord, I would change the filter every 4000 miles but only change the oil every 8000 miles and I used Mobile 1 synthetic at the time.

    These new cars are very self sufficient and very self maintaining and I strongly suggest that you change the oil only when the oil life gets below 15%. If you choose to use the standard fram oil filter, they're not designed to last much longer than 4500 miles but Honda's oil filter is designed to last at least 10,000 miles so I've been told by several Honda mechanics.

    My 08 accord v6 currently is down to 70% oil life remaining. I have approximately 11,500 miles on my vehicle and around 2500 miles on this oil. My first oil change was done at 10% and the mileage was around 8900 miles.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    I hope this is not a dumb question, but does the oil life indicator just go by mileage or does it actually measure oil quality?

    It actually goes by engine revolutions. More city driving will drop your oil life in fewer miles, while highway miles will make the oil life indicator drop slower. At 15%, take it in.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Member Posts: 65
    Your theory about engine revolutions does not make sense. City driving has lower revolutions than highway driving. Plus, city driving is alot of stops and starts whereas highway miles are mostly constant. Since I drive around 80mph most of the time and my rpm's are around 3000 and above due to my wanting to feel the speed which makes my rpm's sometimes go as high as 5000rpm's for 5-10 minutes, explain to me how city driving's lower revolutions gives oil a smaller lifespan.
  • guitar4himguitar4him Member Posts: 19
    The software/hardware that is involved in the calculation of remaining oil life is able to factor in that city miles are harder on oil life than highway miles and adjusts the remaining oil life accordingly. Yes, it is based to a degree, on engine revolutions but there are other factors in the equation. However, it's not solely based on number of engine revolutions.

    Ken
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    But you are in high gear, getting more Miles per RPM when on the highway than in town.

    Look at two dumbed-down scenarios:

    In town, say you average 30 MPH and 2500 RPM. On the highway, you may average 75 MPH also at 2500 RPM. Which one will get you more mileage off of your oil?

    The 75 MPH scenario. You say you run for 5000 RPMs for many minutes at a time on the highway, you are still in 3rd gear or higher. You're still getting more miles per RPM when running 5,000 RPM on the highway than when sitting idling at a red light.

    On the highway, you get more MPH out of your RPM thanks to simple gear ratios.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Thanks for the clarification!

    :shades:
  • nj2pa2ncnj2pa2nc Member Posts: 811
    We owned a 2003 hyundai sonata, bought new. The exact same thing happened to that car. The first time it had less than 200 miles. The dealer would change some parts and it would run great for awhile, then it would happen again. After the fifth time. they replaced the transmission (less than 5,000 miles). I had nothing against the dealer, they went out of their way to try to fix it. We had loaner cars. We traded the car for a elantra with MT.
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    Also is there a website that actually show that Honda has a special "break-in" oil?

    Several people have confirmed through oil analysis (including someone here on Edmunds) that Honda adds something called "molly" to their break-in oil that helps flush out metal shavings in the new engines.

    I've read a lot on the oil change topic and changed my habits as a result of my research. I let the MM decide for me now and change it when it hits 15%.

    Do a Google search on "3000 mile oil change myth" to get started.
  • rambo007rambo007 Member Posts: 23
    Hi,

    My new car EXL-Navi has 800 miles in the odometer and just one month old. Now from the last two days it has this wierd problem. When I slow down the car for stopping I can hear a small sound from somewhere in rear part, it sounds like du..du..du...du...I have no idea why and from where this sound is coming. May be the break pads have some problem. ?.This is irritating me a lot. :mad: .The car I got in a good deal and so I feel like whether they gave me a car with some problem.. :cry: ..Any help is appreciated.
  • golfrskigolfrski Member Posts: 262
    Best of luck my friend... I suggest you as well as others that experience this move over to the 2008 Honda Accord VCM thread,,, there you will find the answers and /or others with the same issue. I hate to tell you this but you now own a car that will rattle you until you get rid of it.. the VCM issue is the culprit (per Honda techs we have spoken to) It seems this may be a big time design flaw..............
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Actually, that conversation was quite a while ago. :)
  • rambo007rambo007 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks, actually mine is a 4 cyl accord. I though the VCM is only for the 6 cyl vehicles. Am I correct. :confuse:
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,144
    ramboo.....just took a look at your delivery experience. First, don't worry about the initial miles on the car when you took delivery. 70 miles could very well be test drive mileage. If they had to trade with another dealer to get the color you wanted, there was driving miles between dealers, too.

    Don't know what to make of the "marks" on your back windshield. Could it be they just didn't clean it well enough when they were "prepping" your car? Can you use some windex on the marks to remove them? If so, then nothing to worry about.

    Your 4 cyl doesn't have cylinder deactivation. So, nothing to worry about there.

    My mileage has gone up consistently as the engine went through "break in". I'd wait until you have about 5,000 miles on your car to see where your MPG is then.

    Hope that's helpful.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Actually, golfrski was replying to a post made last December, not yours. :)
  • gyushergyusher Member Posts: 67
    Since buying my 08 EX-L 4cyl coupe I started tracking every expense made concerning this car on a spread sheet.

    At 2000 miles and so far driving the same route going mainly back and forth to work. Around 15 miles each way plus lunch at the Deli puts another 11 miles on her each day.

    These trips consist of about 60/40 hwy/city and although Interstate it gets real crowded both ways sometimes slowing me down to less than 15-20mph so I would say that my driving is more related to city rather than what you would call a true 'combined' mileage.

    What I find interesting is that since day one I have averaged exactly 25mpg. Every tank you can bet money that the mileage will be 25mpg period. I know she's not really broke in yet and I've yet to get her on the highway for checking my highway mileage.

    I will say that I am not at all dissapointed with this mileage. With my pickup on the exact same route my mileage was only 14mpg while it would do better than 24-25 on the highway. I think its reasonable to expect 30 plus with my Honda on the highway.

    I've already noticed the change in my pocket book. Where I was spending 80 bucks I'm now spending under 50 to go the same distance.

    Maybe tomorrow I'll drive over to Indy and back, a 300 plus mile trip. I'm anxious to see how her mileage does on the big road.

    That is if Ike doesn't stop me. . .
  • ljgbjgljgbjg Member Posts: 374
    I take issue with city driving being lower rpms - each time you accelerate you put more load on your crankshaft and other parts in your engine, and the engine revs up in each gear, at least as high as your highway cruising rpm, if not higher. On the highway you are loafing along at a steady speed and the engine has no "load" put on it.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Not to mention that you go further on each revolution of the engine when traveling at highway speed versus low-speed city driving. It is the more efficient way to go for engine wear as well as fuel mileage.
  • musicislifemusicislife Member Posts: 16
    Does the speed of the "du..du..du's" slow down as the car is slowing down? Does the noise stop when the car stops? If so, it sounds like a brake problem. If the speed of the noise doesn't change as you slow down then it sounds like the ANC (noise cancellation system) and the sound is coming from the subwoofer.
  • andreilandreil Member Posts: 2
    Sorry it is my first car in USA and my first Accord
    and I did not find answers in my contract/main. journal

    When am I expected to take my car for inspection
    Is there some number of miles/time when I should take my car to a dealer for inspection
    When is the first time required by Honda (under warranty contract)?

    When is the first time I better to go to dealer for break/ etc fluids/etc checked required by good care about my car if I want to keep it in the best state?
    how often should I go for mechanics for regular checks?

    thank you
  • tallman1tallman1 Member Posts: 1,874
    I suggest that you follow the Maintenance Minder system on your Accord. Take it in when the oil gets down to 15%. You can do the other maintenance items at that time. They are listed in your owner's manual.
  • efferseffers Member Posts: 25
    Good post! Did you get the manual or automatic?
  • efferseffers Member Posts: 25
    Can anyone outline the 6 speed gearbox problems which I have been hearing about on Honda/Acura FWD vehicles? Would like to purchase an accord coupe and undecided on the I4 or V6.
  • rambo007rambo007 Member Posts: 23
    Thank you all for your reply. Yesterday I took my car to the dealer service and they rectified the problem. As expected it was the problem with brakes. The wheels had lot of rust and they have replaced front brake as well as back brake discs for free. Now there is no sound, but I just felt brake is slightly less compared to my old brakes. :D
  • ashd1ashd1 Member Posts: 14
    From almost the first day after I took delivery of my car it made a light clicking/popping sound from the rear - mostly when accel/deacc on some roads. Not alaways but quite consistent. The dealer greased the right rear suspension and tightened some bolts but that did'nt stop the noise.

    After about a thousand miles I took the car back to the dealer again for the above problem. This time a very good technician test drove the car and said yes its a problem and he'll personally look into it.

    Long story short - he traced the noise to the right rear wheel well spot weld. Honda asked him to drill a hole and create a gap on spot weld and rubber cap it. He did the procedure and the noise is gone.
    It seems Honda is aware of this problem on the 08 Accords - LX, LX-P etc.

    My question to the group - does anybody know if the above seems like a safe procedure -i.e. drilling holes and creating a gap on the spot weld ? Also what happens when the rubber cap wears out eventually ?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    There are literally thousands of spot welds on a car, if the location is 1 of dozens of welds in the same panel, I wouldn't worry that something might let loose. My concern would be with rust. They had to break the paint when they drilled the hole, they hopefully sealed the hole with something that keeps water out. Just adding a plug and nothing else, Hmm.

    Mrbill
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    I would buy a can of undercoat and spray around & on the plug.
  • swhitehornswhitehorn Member Posts: 14
    You must first ensure that all doors are unlocked. This is the real key to your problem. Then when you follow the rest of the instructions, the sytem will remember this original unlocked postion for all doors and change to that setting.
    San Antonio Steve
  • andreilandreil Member Posts: 2
    Which the best computer to use with OBD II for Accord 2008
  • guitar4himguitar4him Member Posts: 19
    Scangauge II works pretty well.

    Ken
  • rebe1rebe1 Member Posts: 7
    I have had a ticking sound in my dash since I've owned the car. 15k now. I traced the noise to the glove box and have had it back to the dealer at least three times. Still ticks. The last trip I took I kept it open for 600 miles....not a sound. Anyone with the same issue or help?
  • rebe1rebe1 Member Posts: 7
    Another issue....At 18-21 mph I get a slight shudder I can feel in the peddle. Transmission is smooth but it's definitely an engine issue maybe injectors or plugs. Anyone else having the problem?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Another issue....At 18-21 mph I get a slight shudder I can feel in the peddle. Transmission is smooth but it's definitely an engine issue maybe injectors or plugs. Anyone else having the problem?

    How sure are you that it is an engine issue, since the pedal isn't connected to the engine? The pedal isn't connected to a traditional throttle linkage, rather, a computer. It is Drive-By-Wire.
  • rebe1rebe1 Member Posts: 7
    I suppose it is possible that it could be the fuel pump.Timing could also be off slightly. It's more pronounce when the a/c runs. The engine sounds and feels rough at idle in gear.

    i
  • jam1000jam1000 Member Posts: 182
    It is almost certainly the latch mechanism. I had this on another car, and they either sprayed some silicone or put in a thin layer of felt, and the noise went away.
  • ehamilto55ehamilto55 Member Posts: 57
    Yes. I have had my car about 1 year now and have about 8K miles. I have just started to get this clicking, rattling, cracking noise coming from the glove box whenever I hit a bump. I have not taken it to the dealer yet. Also same issue. If I open the glove box - not a sound. The noise is very aggrevating but it just started happening. Also if you hear a rattling in back of car like the back window it is the 3rd brake light. I took to dealer for that issue and they put foam tape to prevent the rattle. - Every once in awhile it still rattles. When I go in for my next oil change I will have them check again especially at the glove compartment
  • jhinscjhinsc Member Posts: 399
    Do you have anything in the glovebox that could be rattling while it's closed? To check, take everything out before closing it and see if it still rattles. I keep all kinds of stuff, pens, keys, screwdriver, etc. in mine, and occasionally it will rattle. I just open the glovebox, shift things around and all is quiet again.
  • chucko3chucko3 Member Posts: 793
    Could it be the cabin air filter holder not fully latched?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    I also have a rattle in my 04 Accord glove box. It appears to be the mechanism that connects the box release handle to the latch. If I stuff an napkin under the release handle just enough to raise it up a bit, but not unlatch the door, the rattle goes away. Pull out the napkin and the rattle is back. I'm still trying to figure out if the front of the box can be disassembled. You might want to give that a try.

    Mrbill
  • bug4bug4 Member Posts: 370
    I took my Honda in today and thought I would post some results.

    Over the past 5000 miles or so, my Accord has developed significant brake warping. This has happened when driving it 95% on the open highway with virtually NO brakes being applied. . . .no big brake-burning hills, no stop-and-go traffic, no nothin! Although my dealership did not indicate that they have seen brake problems on the new Accords, he did note that my brakes looked "burnt" and warped and yet showed almost no signs of actual wear at 15,000 miles. So, they agreed to replace all four rotors under warranty. I'm pleased with that! Makes me wonder if the thing was abused before I picked it up when it was "new." It only had something like 7 miles -- but, who knows what the could-give-a-[non-permissible content removed] tech or salesman did when he went to fill it with gas or gave someone a quick test drive.

    Anyway, also, without any abuse, my wheels had become significantly out of balance and a balance job was necessary. Unfortunately, that was not done under warranty. Apparently, the wheel weights had shifted over time. Back to being smooth-as-glass at 80mph!

    Because of so many highway miles, this is only my 2nd oil change at 15000 miles. Fact is, I had 9000 miles on this last oil change, but still had 30% oil life. Just couldn't wait any longer.

    Finally, and completely unrelated to maintenance, my Honda has definitely picked up in the speed and fuel economy. It just seems that the transmission and/or engine has loosened up over the last 2000 miles. I swear that thing just drives faster and, in any event, my fuel economy has consistently picked up 2-3 miles per gallon. Finally, with all interstate highway cruising, at 75-85 mph, I'm getting into the 30-32mpg range consistently. Those 26--27's were startin to piss me off :)

    So, all is well! Now if it just had a manual transmission, I think I would like the car :cry:
  • bug4bug4 Member Posts: 370
    In my post above, I did forget to mention one important thing. I asked my dealership about a potential TSB on an acceleration problem with the first-released 08 Accords. After looking, he discovered that my Accord had not received a computer update related to slow acceleration from a stop. The problem is apparently related to ignition timing. In any event, it was a problem I think I experienced one time and, hopefully, it is something that won't happen again.

    It is an issue that might be worth exploring on your next trip to the dealer if you have an Accord that was delivered in September / October of 2007.
  • sky16sky16 Member Posts: 20
    I have had the accord v6 manual with navigation 2008 and have had problems with it popping out of 3rd gear and getting into 3rd for up to 10,000 miles and they replaced the gear box last week and then 4th gear it was popping out and it in each gear I shifted to except for 6th gear it made a whinning sound. Now they will have the car for another 4 days at the dealership which now makes six days with a rental car. Not a happy honda consumer at this time, the car looks great when its driving rather than in the dealership repair shop.
  • sky16sky16 Member Posts: 20
    Does this apply only to the automatic accord V6's or does it also apply to the v6 manual as well? Also what does TSB stand for? Please respond back when you have a free minute on this issue. I am just hoping that they will fix the transmission gearbox issues with this 2008 v6exl with navigation; thus, everything else about the car has been great.
  • sky16sky16 Member Posts: 20
    Hi,

    How long did it take to get Honda to give you a new car when you were having problems?

    I have an Accord V6 manual transmission EXL with navigation and have now had the car in the shop for the second time and will have been without the car for a total of 6 days. When I got the car it never went into 3rd gear smoothly and the dealer told me the problem would go away after 10,000 miles which of course it did not and they took the car in to replace the gearbox. Then I picked the car up and had a hard time getting it into first gear which got better over a 5 day period on the 6th day there was noise each time a shifted into another gear and towards the end of day 6 it was starting to occasionaly kick out of fourth gear on its own. I barely got the car to the dealer on day 7 and now they have the car for another 4 days checking out the transmission to try to fix the problem. This is rather frustrating being without my car when it is suppose to be a precision car. I had a 1998 prelude for 45,000 miles for 3 years and never had any problems with it so I am rather bummed about Honda's 2008 Accord any suggestions when to ask for a new Honda? :confuse: :sick:
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