Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair

ashton_n

actually i think they both idle at around 5-600 rpm, if anything the altima idles at lesser rpm (weird). I have an appointment scheduled for the dealer to have a look at it but isnt this a function of the engine mounts in any way? is there any chance that the engine mount on my car particularly is screwed up and is not dampening the vibrations?

elroy5

If I remember correctly, there was a service bulletin about motor mount adjustments, to correct vibration issues on the previous Accord. I suppose it could be a similar fix. Engine mounts are expected to do a lot these days. It's not a simple bolt through a rubber bushing anymore.

ashton_n

I have an appointment setup over this weekend for the dealer to check it out... i just hope mine isnt the only one with this problem..

ljgbjg

The engine mounts in the VCM equipped car are specifically designed to be ACTIVE. If they are not functioning properly I can assure you you will not only have vibrations at idle, but , but also sense the VCM operation and the 3 cylinder vibrations as well. I know - I did, as have many others in the VCM forum.
I would say this - they may need awhile to break in - my problems disappeared after about 3000 miles and my car's operation became "nearly seamless", whereas before it had been the "maddening behavior" cited by the WSJ reviewer. That said -

AT? If so welcome to a place where no man has gone before - VCM land with
6-4-3 modes of operation, and all its vagaries. You will be told it is operating within normal limits. Probably the Active Engine Mounts - part of the VCM system. They may not be operating properly and insulating engine vibration from the car adequately - good luck with that one, right golfrski!?

pat

Let's continue the VCM conversation here: 2008 Honda Accord VCM.

Thanks!

mmaxemow

I have an 08 Accord Coupe since 10/07 and I have all kinds of Thumps & Raddles. If you have sunglasses in the overhead take them out - Check your break light in the back window - they were installed incorrectly and are loose. If you have anything in the trunk that can move you will hear it no matter what you do - there is no insulation in the trunk.....besides that I've I had a bunch of mechanical issues also but I will have to start a new thread for that

mmaxemow

I am having problems with my 08 Honda Accord Coupe EX. Leased 10/07 it broke down 12/07. They had no idea what was wrong with it and kept telling me that they are ordering more parts and replacing things but none of it seems to work. It originally wouldn't start....then when it did it didn't have any acceleration and it would buck. I also made a complaint with corporate and they really have nothing to say. I went even further and made a complaint with the consumer affairs dept. 10 days later after replacing the fuel injection system, overhead cams, rocker arm, battery and all kinds of parts that they wouldn't even elaborate on they called me to come pick up the car. Once there they refuse to give me an itemized bill with what was done. They said it will be mailed to me. Want to know the reason they wouldn't give me a bill? They believed that the problem was "bad gas" and they wanted to contact my insurance company and cant issue a bill until that is done. They had no proof of bad gas as far as I was concerned. The gas company has had no complaints & I did call my insurance company and asked them to do an investigation and not to pay the claim. (6 months later I finally received the results on the gas test and there was nothing wrong with it) Till this day they had no idea what caused the car to break down.

Also in 2/08 the car had an oil leak - a metal plate had to be resealed

3/08 - had the right front tire & rim replaced - all tires balanced and realigned. To this date the car still vibrates between 60-70mph and when braking.

I tried going for the lemon law but because it is all different issues and not "1" problem that I keep having to go back for it doesn't apply

I was one of the first to get this car and it has been my biggest nightmare - I'm doing everything in my power to get out of this car and I'm very disappointed with American Honda for not even trying to appease me - they could care less and I'm sure they are treating everyone else the same. If this continues I hope someone out there puts together a class action suit again them!!

sqa4life

Hello,
I just got a 2008 accord EX yesterday with 6 disc in-dash changer. The audio system is nothing compare to my 2000 TL.

I want more bass and clarity in my new 2008 accord.

Any suggestion please?

thanks

kiawah

A vibration when applying the brakes, is usually a warped front brake rotor. The warping comes from excessive heating. Have the rotors replaced, and break them in slowly to come thru a number of warming/cooling cycles.

hondajohn1

My 2008 accord is having the same issue, dealer says normal operation. Called Honda customer service looking into issue. It is very hard to get comfortable on hot days.

mmaxemow

Thanks kiawah - i'm just tired of doing anything with this car and honda seems to find a way to blame me for everything and i wind up paying for it - i'm not paying for new rotors - so i will drive it until i can get rid of it as is

kiawah

Rotors aren't that expensive if you do them yourself, can be had for typical cars around 15-30 bucks a piece at autoparts chains. If you have to pay a dealer or shop to do them, thats a different story. You just need to hope a potential buyer doesn't feel the pulsation ...and shy away from buying your vehicle because they sense something is wrong.

ashd1

I just bought a 08 Accord LX 4 door. I now find that the steering on this car that I bought is a little too smooth and gives less feedback than all the other 08 Accords that I have driven which have steerings that are stiffer and give more feedback.
I test drove a couple of brand new 08 Accords to compare and I can see the difference.
Everything else is great on this car, but this one thing is nagging me.

What can lead to this ? Should I have this checked out by the dealership ?

thegraduate

If the other Accords were models such as the EX, which have larger wheels, their steering is going to be sharper due to the lower-profile tires. The LX will also ride BETTER (smoother, less bumpy) than the EX because of the taller tire sidewalls.

ashd1

The other Accords that I compared were also LXs. I even checked the tires on them and they have the same ones as mine. I checked my tire pressure to see if they were over inflated and they were not. I can clearly feel the difference -the other Accords have a stiffer steering and giving more feedback and seem to be 'sticking' to the road on turns better.

Could it need some adjustment in the suspension or the steering ? Anybody else feel this kind of thing ?

mrbill1957

If you just got your Accord, and the miles on the tires are just a few. that may be your problem.

When tires are molded, a mold release is used. It does wear off quickly, but it effects how the tire "sticks" to the road. The first time I experienced it was when I replaced tires on a truck with manual steering. I could literally turn the wheel at a standstill with one finger. That lasted less then a day, and was back to the way it used to be.

Mrbill

rambo007

I have a new 08Accord EXL with Navigation bought only last week, and when I opened the trunk, I could see they have installed a DVD player inside the trunk. I took out the DVD which was inside the player and found that it was the Navigation DVD. Actually I have no idea that the map was stored in a DVD inside the trunk . Then I tried to play another DVD in that player, but did not work. Is there anyway that we can play movie DVD's in that player. In that case it will be nice. :P

thegraduate

I doubt it... if you manage to play movies in the NAV screen, please let me know what roads you'll be on and when. I'll stay away! :P

dpmeersman

In that case it will be nice.....

and dangerous. With all that entertainment going on how would you find the concentration to get out a descent text message? In all seriousness I'm sure there is some whiz kid that would be willing to take the task on but would it be done right and what about warranties and would it be able to continue it's original purpose as a Nav system? These are things I wouldn't want to be tampering with on your nice new vehicle.

dzuba

Bought the new Accord in Sept. of 07..............22K miles on it and I need new tires. Horrendous - makes no sense as most of the miles are HWY as well..........anyone else with this problem?

ljgbjg

My son has 54,000 miles on his original equipment tires - 2004 Subaru Legacy GT with 300HP(installed a chip). I have seen them (Bridgestones) and they still have useful tread life! Amazing - because it is AWD? I wonder.

ljgbjg

You don't say but driving style, mostly highway or not, can have a big effect on tire wear and how they are worn - high speed exits and entrances? Air pressure? Road surfaces? Alignment problems? Braking from high speed to avoid tickets? :P
But 22,000 would seem extraordinarily low.

elroy5

What brand tire are they? Is the tread worn down (at 22k)? You must be a VERY aggressive driver. :surprise: My original Michelins were replaced at 42k miles, but not because of treadwear. Punctures and bulges were my problem (Michelin MXV4). :sick:

mrbill1957

I have an 04 EXL and have 33k miles on it. It has the factory Michelin MXV4 tires. I routinely get 100k out of a set of tires, and so far, I would say these tires will wear close to the other 100k milers.

Mrbill

tdkool

This was an accessory that was high on my "get" list when buying my '08 Accord, but after seeing how it performs I am second guessing its usefulness. This is the Honda authorized version and its different than a relative's who purchased an '07 CRV. This version I have must be turned off before getting into the car, to restart it with the key! Apparently this was a conscious decision by Honda to improve security, but in my opinion it makes the feature less useful - as I want the car running with heat or AC on while I put the kids in car seats. Our Subaru has the same fob to manage locks and car starting, the Honda version is separte devices, and they don't work together. The doors must be locked in order to start the car, and as soon as that changes the car is turned off. Anyone out there considering this feature please be aware that the Honda version is different from others in this respect.

thegraduate

Because Honda doesn't offer a "factory" version of the remote start; it doesn't surprise me that the different dealer-installed ones would have different methods for entering and starting, from dealer to dealer.

honlvr

hi,I installed A 4 channel amp on my 08 accord, it brought my speakers to life. the clarity is really good. do you have the 7 speaker system? go to crutchfield.com they can tell you what you need. I installed a profile amp with 80 watts per channel x 4. the amp is only 129.00 & about 100.00 for install. this will add alot to your 08 accord audio system. I also added a small sub woofer in the trunk, because my speakers were so loud the small built in sub was no longer loud enough. I did all for under 600$

grampy1

I have the Michelin mxm4 215/50r17 93v tires on my '07 V-6 Accord ,and am interested in knowing how these tires are after many miles,snow,stability,etc.

I've heard conflicting reports on these tires,and at $200 a tire I'd like to be sure its a good tire in the real world.

sqa4life

Wow, good to know. I went to cartoys today and they want $200 for installation. They also said a 4 channels amp might blow the 4 factory speakers and they suggested to replace all 4 factory speakers.

My problem is: I don't want to put any sub in the trunk. All I want is to add a little more clarity and bass to the factory audio system.

Have you tried your factory speakers without the sub in the trunk? does it sound good? Where did you get your amp installed?

I wish I could find some instructions on how to remove the head unit and install the amp so I can do it myself to save some money and to learn :-)

thanks for your feedback/recommendation.

gyusher

...22K miles on it and I need new tires

Doesn't surprise me at all. My new EX-L has Michelin's but rated at Traction "A" Temperature "A" and a treadweare rating of only "300".

I am surprised at those who claim 50K or better. I most likely will buy new ones around 20K depending but with the tire's ratings I expect to so no surprises. I want lots of tread depth for rain and snow. . .

catmike

Our weather has been hot and humid for four months. I fought the urge to change the oil (first time) at 3000, 4000, and so on. To my amazement, the car's maintenance system did sense that it's oil was kaput at 6048 miles. I'm relieved for the car and my nerves (fighting off that terrible urge to change the oil every 3k).

thegraduate

It doesn't "sense" that the oil was dirty/needs changing. It instead does things such as count RPM over this time period to determine when your oil needs changing. For example, if you do a lot of city driving, you may only get 5,000 on a change (a certain number of RPM will have gone by in fewer miles because you were going slower and in lower gears). Highway drivers may get as high as 9,000 or more because while they've done the same number of revolutions in the engine as you have, they were in top gear going faster, while spinning those same RPM.

If you are worried or want to see the progress, just click over to the oil-life indicator in your trip meter. It'll set off the maintenance light at 15%. It'll start at 100%, go down in increments of 10% until you hit 15%.

rkirchoff

3000 miles? The only way I'd ever change at 3000 miles is if I drove in an extremely dirty environment and my car's maintenance minder told it to change it.

I think that 3000 miles on a oil change is too early. Let's think about it...we're already in an oil crisis and now we have people that are changing their oil too early.

I changed my v6 2008 accord for the first time last week and I had 9235 miles on the factory oil and it was 60% highway driving. The maintenance minder said the oil had 10% life when I changed it.

elroy5

I changed my v6 2008 accord for the first time last week and I had 9235 miles on the factory oil

There is no way I would wait until I had 9000 miles to change my oil, just because Honda wants to lower it's "true cost to own" figures. If the 08 V6 is anything like the 03 V6 that oil must have been black like crude. The engine will still outlast the warranty, doing that, but I want my engine to last much longer.

mrbill1957

9235 miles on factory oil is quite a long time to wait. I would hope that since you want to run the oil that long, you would use synthetic.

Mrbill

BTW, I did my part with the oil crisis and purchased the I4, not the V6. That will save alot more then the oil changes will.

thegraduate

My indicator (15%) comes on around 7,000 miles in my I4, and I get mine changed then, in my 2006 2.4L 5AT.

gyusher

08 coupe EX-L 2.4 5AT

6000 miles mine gets changed period. . . With me that makes 2 a year. Once in the Fall and once in the Spring.

I've done this for over 200 years. . .

feels like a million. ., . kidding.

catmike

Thanks Grad.....

rambo007

I recently bought 2008 Accord ExL with Navigation in a good deal (prize was 1500 below invoice). A couple of days I waited for my favorite color, but it was not readily available and therefore I selected my second favorite color from the dealer. After my job time, in the evening I went to take the car, and by that time they already selected the car and did the emission tests and ready with all the paper works. I was bit worried that they have not shown me the car before doing all the paper work. Is it normal. ? Then everything looks good and I am fine with the car except the following points. When i took the car it had 71 miles in the odometer. They said it had a couple of test drives and they drive nearly 40 miles for the car's emission test purpose (which might be true as I bought the car from the neighbouring state). The rear windshield has some marks as if somebody has wiped the windshield from inside and I have no idea how it came there. Also one of the black polymeric lining which goes over the door glass came out from the covering. I noted these things after I took it to home. The next day I got it corrected from the dealer and I openly asked the sales manager whether I am the first owner of this vehicle. He convinced me saying that they cannot sell a preowned vehicle to somebody saying that it is new. Two days back I had my first gas filling and had more than half of the trip on highway. But the mileage seems to be only 21. I just would like to know what u guys think about this car?

bvdj84

Well, don't feel bad, I actually had 200miles on it when I leased it. But, the never subtracted the miles from my lease, they had it down as about 12 miles or so, so already at the beginning, I had miles, I didn't even drive. The car had been their since October of last year. At first, I was not too impressed with the engine, but now I have 6,500 miles on it, and it feels so much better, and I have been getting great mileage. So with time, your car will feel better, and get better mileage. It really does take some time to really break-in. If there were any marks, or dirt on anything, take it back, and tell them to clean it, you wanted a new car, so you are getting one. I actually had some minor scratches on the rear bumper, I did tell the dealer, they did attempt to fix them, but later when the polish washes off, they came back, not as bad, but they are there. Also, there is a small dent on the right side, it is certainly not from me, because I never park next to anyone to get a dent, anywhere. I could tell them, but I seriously doubt they would believe me now, I did not see it when I picked it up. My next car, I want a fresh car, right off the truck if I can, my mom did, we saw it all wrapped up, not even prepped. In fact, I might ask to leave the wrapper on. I'll prep it myself. Sounds crazy, but hey, its my car.

So bottom line, it may seem like your nuts, but inspecting the car inside and out for anything is strongly advised. Even down to the paint shine and finish. I have seen new cars with swirl marks all over from the "mobile wash". New cars, get moved, banged up all the time, we want a new car, also you might want to look at when the car was made, just for your information, see how long it had been sitting.

mmaxemow

Anyone else having to get their rear breaks changed after 17k miles? Let alone the rotors in the front?

mrbill1957

It is quite common to do "dealer swaps" when it comes to new cars. If you go to a dealer and they don't have what your looking for, they do a computer search with other dealers close by, and if they find the car you want, they swap for it. I don't know how Honda handles it, but another car maker actually requires the other dealership to surrender the car, and take what is offered in trade. A good friend of mine works for a new car dealer, and he spends part of the day doing the swaps. He drives the new car to and from the swapping dealerships.

Mrbill

classact1

My brakes squeaked pretty much from the first day, not only when the car was first started, but all the time. I took it back to the dealer after about 2000 miles, and they did not hear the squeak. Next, they had the Quality Assurance Supervisor ride with me, but he talked the entire time and therefore did not hear the squeak when it happened. I was annoyed at that dealership, and decided to wait until my next vacation to take it to a different dealer.

After I blasted the dealership on the customer service survey, headquarters contacted me and arranged for me to bring the car back to that dealer again. (The QA Supv. had since been fired.) By that point, I had about 2700 miles on the car. They replaced both front and rear brakes, no charge, no questions asked. (All I asked is that they look at the brakes, but I guess they figured since they were in trouble with HQ, they would replace them altogether.) The new brakes only squeak occasionally, and then only when the car has not warmed up yet. Admittedly, I have only driven the car 3300 miles since October, but it is almost all stop and go local driving.

joahjoah

I bought 08' Accord EX-L/Navi on June. I have about 2000mile on my odometer. I am pretty aware of idle noise, so I decide not to concern about that (doesn't mean I do not care for it). From few weeks ago, I started noticing noise from engine room. As I gain speed, noise is getting more gradual and frequent and faster. For example, speed goes up 0 to 30, noise is getting faster like DA-----DA---DA--DA-DA-DADA-DADADA-DADADADA. I only had similar noise when I had nail stuck on tire before this accord, but this time from engine room. I checked my tires again if there was anything stuck on them. Nothing I found. Is anybody experiencing this noise before? or this is similar situation with idling noise that I need to live with. Can anyone give me advise? I will appreciate it.

frenchman777

My 2008 Accord V-6 transmission started having issues at 14,000 miles last week. During my drive around town in stop and go traffic, I noted that when I hit the gas to go (while in Drive) the RPM's started rising rapidly, as if the car was in neutral. Then all of a sudden it clunked into gear, jerking the car forward. Then it would repeat over and over, until I put it in Park, back to Drive and then was on my way home for 15+ miles on streets and freeways speeds just fine. Get up next morning to head to work and it starts all over again. Only 1st and 2nd gear worked. Had it towed to dealer, repeated problem for them. Apparently Honda advised they flush the transmission fluid, which they did, but after doing so the problem hasn't repeated itself again. They were ready to replace the tranny, until Honda stopped them because they couldn't get the car to act up again after the flush and also weren't able to get some codes downloaded during the problem times to a computer to send to Honda. I now have the car back but am very concerned about how reliable my new car will be going forward. Any ideas as to the issue, or how to successfully push further with Honda/dealer to get a more concrete answer/solution?

bxtwilight

I sometimes change my own oil and sometimes I go to Goodyear or Jiffy Lube, etc. Does anyone know if the oil life indicator resets itself automatically or is there something that has to be done manually. If it has to be manually reset, does anyone know how to do this?

Thanks in advance.

gyusher

Does anyone know if the oil life indicator resets itself automatically or is there something that has to be done manually. If it has to be manually reset, does anyone know how to do this?

Instructions are in your owners manual. I had the same concerns then scanned the manual where I found simple instructions on how to reset it.

I would tell you but I don't remember exactly how to do it. I will check the manual again when the time comes.

bduede

Hey Friend, you are correct that the indicator needs to be reset after maintenance. Press the knob to scroll past Trip A and B, then hold it down for 10 seconds on the oil life screen. Once it starts flashing, release then press and hold for another five seconds. This will reset the oil life to 100%

rpbala

Accord EX- 4cyl- 2008
smooth steering- when you take the car in reverse...steering gets very smooth and drives like this for a while and feels like the car is tilting to one side.
break is also having some issues (squeaking).
Anybody have these problems?
Thx
Bala

mathewj

Hello,
So we just got a new silver with grey leather interior 2008 Accord EXL V6 and have noticed that after using the XM Radio for a while (about 40 minutes) and when changing channels the sound will stop, actually in a few cases the sound would stutter and then stop.

I have tried turning the radio off and then back but that didn't work, the FM will still play fine. The only way to get the XM back on is by turning off the car and then starting it up again.

Didn't know if this is something I should try to get fixed? I got the 5 yr extended on it so I have time, but it is annoying. Thanks