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Honda Accord (2008-2012) Maintenance and Repair



  • parvizparviz Posts: 484
    My XM radio does not show the entire name of the long songs or albums. Does yours? I thought it was supposed to scroll to show the entire name. Also, it just shows only one info (name, singer, etc.) until I press the button to alternate manually. I also thought it was supposed to alternate between the singer's name, song name, etc.?
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Posts: 275
    Mine like yours shows incomplete title if they are long, but your question made me seek my manual and I found this:
    The display shows up to about 14
    characters of selected text data (the
    folder name, file name, etc.). If the
    text data has more than 14
    characters, you will see the first 14
    characters and the indicator in
    the display. Press and hold the
    TITLE button until the next 14
    characters are shown.

    I've never tried holding the title button, just a quick push to cycle thru it's functions. I'll give it a try when I go out for lunch today and put to use what I've learned. As far as alternating, I've noticed that when a song first comes on from an XM source it does briefly display the artist then remains on the song title. If you switch to a CD it does display the name of the disc before it shows song titles. I try not to get to fixated on the display as I'm usually in considerable traffic. I listened to my first Red Sox game on XM recently and found it very convenient that the display shows innings-outs and other pertinent info that you are usually looking for when you first put a game on, but usually have to wait what seems forever for the announcers to get around to informing you.
  • packer3packer3 Posts: 277
    Thanks also, which I4 is it on.
  • dlongoddlongod Posts: 5
    Just got my 08 Accord EX-L 4 cyl Sedan a couple of weeks ago. Is there an easy way to turn the daytime running lights off? I haven't really messed around with anything yet but if somebody knows exactly what to do, I would greatly appreciate it!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I think you can remove the proper fuse for this. There is no switch to turn them off, or any "cheat" to do by pressing a series of buttons or anything. They aren't meant to be turned off since they're a safety feature.

    Why do you want them off, may I ask?
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    According to my dealership's service manager, if you disable the daytime running lights then problems with the air bag may occur. I don't like them as well but I'm stuck with'em. I've already decided my next car will not be a Honda...too many morons making drastic changes that many of us don't want, need, or care to have.
  • dwashcodwashco Posts: 4
    As some prevoius posts have reported ... re: lights dimming -- I pulled my 08 (I4 EX-L) up to a large wall of a bldg at night and can clearly see the lights dim when the condenser kicks on. Furthermore the condenser cycle period is about 6-8 secs ON then OFF, ON etc... Has anyone been successfull at getting any information regarding this problem or whether this is actually considered a problem by Honda or normal ?
  • Daytime running lights- like VSA - will likely be Government mandated if it isn't already... and well over two thirds of cars already have them... So you can run - but you can't hide! :P
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would have had to ask, what daytime running lights have to do with airbags?

    Other than that, ALL cars are becoming more and more complex (not just Hondas). All cars will be required to have stability control soon, and systems to improve fuel economy are getting more complicated as well. If you want a simple car, I suggest a 60's model (would have said 70's models, but they started with the emissions controls).
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check for a good power system. Your battery needs to be strong, your alternator needs to be putting out the rated voltage and current, and your power cables need to not have corrosion on the connectors or up in the cable. Corrosion creates resistance, dropping the voltage and limiting current flow.

    Many autoparts chains will do a free battery/alternator check, where they check it driving an electrical load. A visual inspection of the cables is usually the first step, but if everything checks out then you'll need to have a good mechanic check the resistance of the main power cables and ground, to pinpoint possible internal cable corrosion problems. You do this under load drawing a current, so you can see if there is any voltage drop (proving a resistance). Voltage = Current x Resistance.
  • bug4bug4 Posts: 370
    The headlight "flicker" problem appears to be happening on every 08 Accord I4 model. All the posts on this forum have indicated that dealers are saying it is normal. For me, its not a big deal. However, some have reported that the problem is sufficiently drastic that oncoming traffic might think they are flashing their lights. Mine is no where near that drastic and occurs only every 20 seconds or so . . .
  • ljgbjgljgbjg Posts: 374
    Nice explanation but this problem is apparently endemic with 2008 Accord I4 cars. Many many people here have posted with the same problem and these are brand new cars, nothing to do with corrosion, loose cables , weak batteries, weak old alternator.
  • dlongoddlongod Posts: 5
    I want to turn the daytime running lights off because at night when I turn the lights to off, the daytime running lights stay on. If I want it completely dark, I have to turn the engine off so the daytime running lights go off as well.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    I have no idea what daylight running lights has to do with the airbag system. This is something the service manager told me.

    I do know that since I've been using these idiot lights...daytime running lights...that I've been almost hit many more times. More people have pulled-out in front of me and then once they hear my horn and see me swerve to avoid collision, they look at me like...where did you come from. To me, the addition of the daytime running lights has added more glare to drivers. I've also noticed when trucks/pick-ups are right behind me that their daytime running lights are darned near blinding via the rear view mirror and the automatic mirror-dimming does not work to prevent this. I miss the old style mirror that had that tab on the bottom side so the driver could flip the mirror upwards or downwards to prevent blinding lights/glare. Having my windows tinted with the 20% tint has certainly helped to reduce the glare/blinding daytime lights.
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    can't say much about the radio system. I rarely listen to it. I've tried to listen to XM but have found that most stations that I liked would always play the same songs at the same time darned near everyday. And then sometimes, they'd play some song that was soooo bad that it was better to just turn-off the radio entirely.

    XM is not something I'd order on a car. It was there when I bought the car. I seldom used it but when I did want to use it for weather, I found that there were no cities available that were close to my location...SW Indiana. I used the normal FM-radio station to hear weather for my locale. Soooo...why pay for something that is not just already free but has more local news and more local weather?

    To me, silence is golden when traveling. It gives me time to think. I must add though that when I encounter some moron that has his radio turned up quite loudly that forces me and others to listen to that $%^&$^^ hiphop...I then turn on my radio and tune it to classical music then I, too, crank it up and force him to listen to "real" music.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Sorry I don't have a better answer for ya, but here's what I can tell you I'd do...

    When you park, set the brake. Turn the car off, then back on, if you need it to sit with the lights off. Don't release the parking brake. The DRLs shouldn't come on. They only come on after cranking by releasing the brake.

    If you're doing a lot of sitting with the motor running, the extra fuel used in shutting off and re-cranking the car won't matter much - you're mileage will be shot anyway.
  • jpljpl Posts: 35
    Hi Purchased 08 EX-L, w/Navi June 24th, having some problems, anyone else experiencing these problems???

    1) Driver's side seat skip's going back
    2) Navigation System, Sometimes have to press button twice before response
    3) My BIGGEST PROBLEM, Seems to be all Front-End
    a) When appling brakes, the front seems to shake-shimmies
    b) At high speed, slowing down the shaking-shimming is more pronounced
    c) When accelerating to high speeds, from time to time it feels as if it is gliding, hard to explain, when I was a kid riding My bike, if You shifted & it did not go into gear, but You were moving faster. scary!!

    Appreciate any help in this matter

  • packer3packer3 Posts: 277
    Bring it back to the dealer and show him
  • ljgbjgljgbjg Posts: 374
    8 EXL V6

    1) Yes - skips and sometimes jams altogether like there is something in the tracks. Jimmy Hoffa? :P
    2) Yes from high speed. Suggest you have rotors checked for warping - the pulsation of braking can casue the whole fonrt end to shimmy. Since it happens only when braking, I put my money on warped rotors.
    3) No
  • matador51matador51 Posts: 17
    I live in Canada where it gets really cold in the winter. Last Dec I purchased a 2008 Accord V6 and today it has slightly over 3000 miles on it.

    The oil change light still says 70% so at this rate I will go through two winters without ever changing the original oil.

    Does this seem right or maybe there is something wrong with that indicator. I change the oil every 3000 miles on my truck and always before winter.
  • dpmeersmandpmeersman Posts: 275
    I own the same car and I had the oil changed when the indicator was @ 15% which for me was 7,600 miles. I'm told it is break-in oil and should be left alone until it reaches the 15% oil life indicator or one year, which ever comes first.
  • 3000 miles and 70% life sounds about right. I have 6000 miles and 40% and the dealer says this is fine. I plan to change the oil at 7500 even if the computer says I don't need to because I want the tires rotated around that time. The manual says you should change the oil when the car tells you but AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR so I would advise you to change it in December at the latest. Make sure to check your oil level. The break in oil is thin and there are several reports of oil usage. I recently topped mine off because it was nearly a quart down.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Posts 514 and 515 are correct - you should get your oil changed at 15% or 12 months, whichever comes first.
  • hank119hank119 Posts: 39
    My manual seems a little ambiguous about the time to change oil on the 2008 V-6.
    On page 308 it states " 15 and 10% oil life indicators remind you that your vehicle will soon be due for maintenance."

    It also states "when the remaining oil life is 5 to 1% you will see a SERVICE message along with the same maintenance codes ...."

    Inasmuch as it's desirable to keep the factory oil in the crankcase as long as possible I opted to perform my first oil change when the 5% message first appeared. This occurred at approximately 9400 miles.
  • golfrskigolfrski Posts: 262
    in My experience Honda does NOT stand behnd ALL of their products.. check out the Honda Accord VCM forum for more detail...
  • rkirchoffrkirchoff Posts: 65
    According to the service manager at the dealership where I get my 08 Accord serviced, it is first recommended to not change the first factory oil until the remaining oil life is 15%. No explanation was given as to why this is important.

    According to other car manufacturers such as Mercedes and Porsche, it is recommended to get your oil changed at least one time every year regardless of miles driven.
  • duke23duke23 Posts: 488
    My understanding is that the original factory oil contains special additives that are designed to aid the engine break in process. So changing oil less than 15% life is contrary to what Honda specifically designed the factory new Accord oil for. I believe though that the owners manual states it should be changed at 1 year regardless of mileage.
  • rich505rich505 Posts: 33
    The A/C Condenser does not turn on and off!! The condenser coil is the heat exchange radiator in front of the cooling system radiator. The condenser coil cools off the hot liquid Freon after it leaves the compressor. The liquid Freon then passes through an expansion valve where it turns into a gas and passes into the evaporator coil inside car where the now cold gas removes heat from the air inside the car. The gas then goes back to the compressor to be liquified again. The electrically-operated A/C compressor clutch turns the compressor on and off.

    I'll bet the problem with the I4 Accords and the lights dimming has to do either with the current draw by the compressor clutch or the load on the engine when the clutch kicks on. Does this problem happen with the V6?

    I had all sorts of idle problems with my 1984 Accord. I traded that for a 1984 Toyota that had fast idle problems. In fact every Toyota I have owned since my first one in 1982 (I4 and V6, stick and automatic) has had what Toyota calls a "heat soak problem". If you shut the engine off while warm and attempt to restart it after 10 minutes the engine will die and you have to crank it several times to restart it. Other than a ECU-fix for one of them Toyota called this a feature not a problem!
  • macsanmacsan Posts: 27
    The thing that comes on and off is the electric condenser fan motor. When the car is travelling a bit up to highway speeds, the system doesn't call for the a/c condenser fan motor to kick in that much. It kicks in more at stop lights since there is no air moving through the coils to cool the condenser. The air flow turns the hot gas back into a liquid. That in turn gets sent back to the evaporator to cool the interior again. Thats why the lights "flicker a bit at night with the A/C on and parked and idling. You can see it kicking on and off with the hood up-its next to another fan motor-the engine coolant radiator fan motor. I hope that helps. MAC
  • ljgbjgljgbjg Posts: 374
    Please do no attribute inacurate statements to me. I never said the condenser goes on and off, nor did the person to whom I was replying - there are only two things that could go on and off with the AC - the compressor (through the clutch mechanism) and the condenser fan. SOMETHING is causing a major power draw that the electrical system seems inadequate to handle, but the flickering is endemic - the majority if not all 2008 I4s have the problem.
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