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If by same car you mean same model, same year but different vehicles... there certainly are many factors that affect mileage. Check out the Accord Real World Mileage Forum here.
It sounds like Honda and XM are working on revised firmware. Unknown is when it will be available, and who will be notified when it is. I am just glad it isn't another 'No Trouble Found' for my file.
If only the the vibration and paint flaws were as easily fixed. One more super balance coming up. Will they balance the tires for free when rotation time hits? Yes I have a 2008 EXL V6 Navi.
Just wondering what they said about the brakes wearing out so fast? Did you bring it to a dealer, or are you just assuming they need repair? I haven't heard much nice about the new Accord. Sorry for your troubles.
-J
To wrap up my day of driving a crappy car that I knew I wasn't going to trade my 2005 in for, I was driving home and got rear-ended by a teenager with a permit. Now I really do need to look for a new car; the kid didn't have insurance and I don't have full coverage. Lucky me!
Sorry to hear about your accident; for some input (if you care for any, ya might not! :shades: ) feel free to check out the Midsize Sedans 2.0 forum, or the "Help Me Choose!" forum, since you aren't happy with the current model Accord. I linked them below for you.
Midsize Sedans 2.0
Help Me Choose!
Reve1, what is the difference between semi-metallic pad and ceramic pad. The only information I have gathered is that the ceramic is quieter. Is this the only difference? I would want to put on a better performing pads than a quieter pads. Does the ceramic pad perform as well as (if not better than) the semi-metallic pad?
Thanks :confuse:
You don't have to drive aggressively, necessarily. If, say, going down a long grade you apply the brakes lightly all the way down the hill as opposed to getting on them moderately then coasting, and repeating that process, you'll get your brakes very hot, and help them to soften, and warp. It may seem like you're being quite gentle, but sometimes, its better to be a little harder on them and allow yourself some "coast time" than it is to ride them gently down the hill. And, when you can, DOWNSHIFT to let the engine do some braking. Put it in D3. :shades:
I've just gotten off from a phone call to Honda Automobile Customer Service. I told them that a dealer told me my Accord had 65% life left on the front pads and almost 0% on the rear pads. I naively asked the customer service whether this is normal for an Accord. The customer service said although he can not tell me whether it is normal or abnormal ware of the pads, he said there was no record of any other 2008 Accord owner who has reported this issue in their their database. He said I was the first to mention this issue on 2008 Accord.
Regarding the rotor warp, do you think resurfacing (turning) the rotor would fix the problem, or should I just replace the rotor. I'm just not sure how well they could fix the warped rotor. I just don't want to have the problem return in short time...
Thanks,
I had same issues with brake on my 08 Honda Accord EX. I went to 2 different dealers 2 times. I also opened 2 issues with Honda HelpLine but I got no satisfactory answers. Some said I am braking to gently so Discs are getting glazed. Some said otherwise. I think Honda Design is poor. Now I am out of Brake Warranty dont know what do with irritating noise. :sick:
https://www.buybrakes.com/axxis/45-13360D
I'm @ a little over 18,000 miles on my 08 EX-L V6 and personally don't have any brake problems. I should be bringing it in for an inspection and oil change around 22,000 miles and based on what I've been reading at this and other sites it's not unusual to be informed that the brakes need attention so I'm just making note of what my options will be at that time.
Average based on what standards? If you do a good bit of highway (at 80 MPH it sounds like you do), you should get more than that.
I replaced the Accord rear pad at 22k miles. Something is wrong... :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
If there is a sickly, sweet odor to the air, then you may have a heater core leaking coolant into the air instead. Usually this will cause window fogging from the extra moisture being put into the air.
If I know about this problem, i would have stuck to different Japanese car like Toyota. I will join others to report and complain about this.
thxs and good luck
Most aftermarket extended warranties from third parties (not the auto companies version) are more difficult to collect on. They are just as much pure profit as paint sealant and fabric protector. And like other business, they can go out of business and leave you with a worthless warranty.
Some makes/models come with 'Full' Maintenance or Service that covers wear items and service for the duration of the stated period on the sticker. BUT - watch out for the many brands that say 'Full Scheduled Maintenance', the scheduled in there changes it to just oil changes, and other things in the manual for set mileage/months, etc.
If the brakes wore out in the first 12mo/12k mile adjustment period - maybe Honda would pay for it, if caused by a defective brake system component (caliper, etc).
Some people in other groups say that they are trying 'ceramic' pads on the rear brakes to increase time between replacements, so you may want to give that a try. Best thing is to find a shop that will do only what is needed. For instance the rotor should not normally need resurfaced - only if grooved or scored. In many cases, as long as the pads are changed before metal on metal contact, only the pads need changed. So the $110 sounds right, about $60 is what people are saying ceramic pads go for (but most likely his price is OEM type pads), plus the labor for straight pad replacement.
The service advisor indicated the new design on the rear braking system was set up this way to improve the way the car stops. I feel this is a bad design, I contacted American Honda and they took my call as a "complaint" They have received a few calls in regards to the braking system and unless they receive a substantial amount of complaints, nothing will be done to address the problem...so get on the horn with Honda and start complaining about our problem!!!
I heard it 2 times till now that when I use to start my car I hear bit grinding noise at the beginning. I took this to the honda dealer and he said everything is alright and he didn't hear that now. but i am skeptical about that becoz it is not everytime and only some times ( and that too its twice till now). I just want to know from you if you have heard anything similar like this??
please advice..
Thanks,
Mahesh
If right when starting to crank the engine, definitely a starter motor issue such as the alignment of the gears or the solenoid that engages the starter motor to the flywheel.
If low on fuel (makes this louder), and noise happens before cranking, could even be the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel lines - usually goes for a couple second and stops if the engine is not cranked - this noise would seem to come from the back of the car.
There is the noise of the solenoids in the transmission when you move the gear lever from one position to another on the automatic (though not nearly as loud or slow at engaging as the one in a 90 dodge car I owned).
I've had one or two instances of valve noise right at cold start - something like the old tapping issue on cars that had hydraulic lifters, and it usually has a moan immediately after turning the engine off - I think it is pressure bleeding off the fuel line.
Honestly, I get the brush off by the dealer too often for my liking. Mine has a steering wheel shimmy at various highway speeds that they keep throwing tire balances at (on the big bad Hunter road force machine). Its minimized now, but still there (if you know the symptoms before the last balance) - the repair slip says just normal road vibration now, for the third time. Just wait until tire rotation upsets the apple cart - then it will be on my dime, because adjustments and tire items are only under the first 12K.
Easily wins the most factory paint flaws award over the last five new cars I have owned.
Like others here, I generally like this car, but am starting to hate the dealers inability to fix things that aren't caused by something screamingly obvious. No matter what brand, the best warranty is one that is not needed - because the value of the warranty comes down to the dealers service departments ability.
© 2009 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. – All Rights Reserved ATB 41171-41384 (0904) 1 of 2
CUSTOMER INFORMATION: The information in this bulletin is intended for use only by skilled technicians who have the proper tools, equipment,
and training to correctly and safely maintain your vehicle. These procedures should not be attempted by “do-it-yourselfers,” and you should not assume
this bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle has the condition described. To determine whether this information applies, contact an
authorized Honda automobile dealer.
April 11, 2009
09-010
Applies To: See VEHICLES AFFECTED
Engine Rattles at Cold Start-Up
(Supersedes 09-010, dated February 11, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
REVISION SUMMARY
Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, the
Symptom Code has changed.
SYMPTOM
At cold start-up, the engine rattles loudly for about
2 seconds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The VTC (variable timing control) actuator is faulty.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008 Accord L4 2/4-Door – ALL
2009 Accord L4 2-Door –
From VIN 1HGCS1...9A000001 thru
1HGCS1...9A004953
2009 Accord L4 4-Door –
From VIN 1HGCP2...9A000001 thru
1HGCP2...9A029528
From VIN JHMCP2...9C000001 thru
JHMCP2...9C010096
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the VTC actuator.
PARTS INFORMATION
VTC Actuator: P/N 14310-R44-A01, H/C 8665374
VTC Oil Control Solenoid Valve O-Ring:
P/N 15832-RAA-A01, H/C 7131873
Chain Case O-Ring:
P/N 91302-PNA-004, H/C 6753560
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Hondabond HT Liquid Silicone Gasket
P/N 08718-0004, H/C 8263386
(One tube repairs two vehicles.)
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Operation Number: 110153
Flat Rate Time: 4.0 hours
Failed Part: P/N 14310-R44-A01
H/C 8665374
Defect Code: 03214
Symptom Code: 04201
Template ID: 09-010A
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by
the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Office. You must request consideration, and get a
decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE: If you’re reading this service bulletin on ISIS
and your computer has sound, click on the picture to
hear an example of the engine rattle.
1. Allow the oil to drain from the VTC system by not
starting the engine for at least 6 hours.
2. Start the cold engine, and immediately listen for a
loud rattle:
Do you hear a loud rattle that lasts about
2 seconds?
Yes - Go to REPAIR
I need your update, as my 2009 Accord's front brakes are making a squealing noise when I depress the petal at a speed between 15 to 50 miles per hour. It started doing this at about 1000 miles guessing. Now with 4800 miles it continued to do squeal. I too put it off as a new car breaking in. It doesn't do it all the time but the frequency seems to be increasing in the warmer weather. So I decided to bring it in to be looked at. Of course it was raining the day I brought it in (it doesn't squeal in the rain) and they could find nothing wrong. They trimmed the edge of the rotors, (indicating there could have been something on the edge. Then they test drove it and said there was no noise. I asked if there were any service notices and he told me there was no notice out about issues on this issue, (your memo?). So I picked up the car and drove 4 miles home, and when I was at mile 3, SQUEAL!!!. Now the service tech was very nice and did say they would test drive with me it it happened again, and they would look into the issue, so I will be going back. Who is the TRS, and where can I get their contact info? Any help will be appreciated, as the noise is tearing at my sanity.
Thanks
PS: Use only Honda fluid