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91-95 Ford Escort Sedan
Thinking of buying a 95 Escort. Any words of
wisdom?
wisdom?
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I used to own a 1991 Mercury Tracer (same as the Escort). I just sold it last year (to a relative) with about 158,000 miles on it. It still ran great, got great mileage and burned no oil.
I did almost all the preventative maintenance myself. I changed the oil & filter about every 3,000 miles, coolant and fuel filter at 60,000. Had the timing belt and water pump replaced around 100,000.
It was a surprisingly reliable car. I did have to replace the outer tie rod ends a couple of times, the alternator around 85,000 and the O2 and TP sensors around 90,000. It was a 5 speed with the 1.9 liter engine. It wasn't a powerhouse by any means, but with the stick it was OK. Not what you'd call fun to drive, but cheap, reliable transportation.
Dave
Good luck.
Bruce. your new host.
as the father of the owner.In 94 my fresh out of college son wanted a new car so he got a 4dr LX
it first had a bad cv boot and splattered grease
all over.At about 80000 miles the timing belt broke.Besides brake jobs it was okay till 132000
miles and the engine burnt up because of a lack
of coolant.We replaced the engine with one from
a wreck with low miles.It cost us $2000 including
labor.Now the ignition switch died.It cost $230
parts and labor.So looking back I think we should
have got a Honda Civic and maybe it would not had
these problems.
I replaced the timing belt on my 91 at around 100,000 miles, and after inspecting it, it was due for a change. I had the water pump and serpentine belt replaced at the same time.
You are taking a gamble no matter what kind of car you buy! Every manufacturer makes some lemons. But keeping up on maintanence goes a long way toward making a car last.
Dave
Have you posted this in the sedans conference? There is also a topic in hatchbacks. If you do a "Topic Search" for escort you will find lots of topics.
Good luck,
Your host, Bruce
thanks!
It would have been reliable if he had done maintenance but his idea of maintenance is putting gas in it.He did not have the timing belt replaced on time so it broke.Aside from brakes
and tires it was uneventful till 130K miles when
something caused it to lose coolant and the engine
self destructed.We had a used engine installed
and it is running good again.Original transmission
works okay.The ignition switch burned up last month.The body and interior are holding up and
considering he never cleans it's surprising.
:-)
Oh well, I guess my secret is out - I'm not the mechanical type, just an average joe driver.
I have posted a message in a new topic list before, but that topic mysteriously disappeared yesterday. Anyway, I am looking into one with 55K on it. The brakes squeals when pressed, the seller says the sound will be gone when the new pad wears away. I remember a post some time ago that someone had the similar problem and the sound woulnd't go away. Anyone who had such experience? The fluid of the car's automatic transmission is light brown, that is supposed to be reddish, right?
Besides, are there any other parts which need replacement in the near future with the car at this stage? Any advise and inputs appreciated.
its time for a radiator flush and refill and new thermostat.(if the seller has not done it already).
flush the brake system completely with new fluid if the fluid looks dark in the master cylinder reservoir..
check the spark plugs, inspect the spark plug wires.
pick up a haynes manual on this car. it will give you a list of what needs to be done for routine maintenance.
these cars are pretty common and plenty are for sale at least in my area.
i think i would have this car professionally looked at before buying ,if i were you..
brown trans fluid, possible brake problems and a no-start when warm at 55k.. this could wind up costing you quite a bit to take care of....
it doesn't sound as if proper maintenance was done to this auto.
i think i would shop around.
my 95 escort has no none of the problems you mentioned.
if the seller has thrown on a set of cheap pads, odds are the brakes will always squeal.
was he qualified to do the work?? their are shims and clips that must be in place after the pads are changed. the rotors MUST be turned usually...
good luck!!
lee
this might be a problem with 95's. mine has a mild case of what you describe. 63,000 miles.
i just put up with it... if it gets worse i may replace the speedo with a new one.
i also have had other escorts that didn't have this problem(different years).
i am curious if you are having your ford dealer service the problem???
best wishes,
lee
I did have the speedo head replaced under warranty when the car was about a year old. After that, in cold weather, it would read WAY high. And it seemed the colder it got, the higher it would read.
I remember one -15F day, driving on my street at
about 25 mph, it read 50 mph.
It did get better as the car warmed up. I never
bothered to do anything about it.
Dave
running even with the temp gauge at the hi end of
the normal range but not in the red?
Fan runs ok when I turn on the A/C.
Any idea at what the temp is when the gauge reads
that high, book says at 220 F the low speed is to
come on and at 230F the hi speed runs.
Any info. about the fan will be of interest to me.
Thanks Charlie criecke@charleston.net
you could measure the actual coolant temp in the radiator(carefully). if it is actually running too warm , then i would check:
1) thermostat
2) fan switch
3) fan motor (you say it is running?)
the reason i include the fan motor even though it runs when the air is on:
my son's 93 mustang lx 4 cylinder also started overheating.
his car ran too warm according to the temp gauge and the fan also ran when he turned the air on.
we changed out the obvious things , thermostat, then fan temp switch.
it still ran too warm....
it was the fan motor after all.
is there two circuits to the motor? i wonder. this was diagnosed and replaced at the ford garage, and replacing the motor solved his problem.
are you losing coolant somewhere and can't figure out where its going? that could be bad news.
does the gauge drop to the normal range when the car is in motion?? my gauge reads about 1/2" to 3/4 " from the cold side, when at operating temperature at all times.. i expect this to be close to normal.
i am not an ase certified mechanic or anything, but i wouldn't wait too long to have it checked. a real overheat could wind up costing you plenty..
good luck,
lee
Measured the temp of the coolant at the thermo
housing and not hot enough to turn on fan.
Blocked rad. and let it get up and fan came on.
Charlie
people to that tech. Charlie
i wouldn't send someone i didn't like to that garage!!
i have a 95 escort lx and replaced the timing belt & waterpump at roughly 62,000 miles.
odds are its not the timing belt causing your problem.
if your owners manual doesn't say it(the timing belt) needs replaced at the 60,000 mile interval, then you might have the newer styled round tooth timing belt which seems to last longer than the old style flat toothed design.
i had an 86 escort with the old style belt and it broke at almost exactly 60,000 miles.
dummy me, i didn't replace the water pump at the same time, and it(the pump) seized up at 65k and took out my new timing belt. so i had to pay for it all over again!!(i learned a good lesson).
the gates (timing belt mfg) website recommends replacement at 60,000 miles for both of our vehicles. it should be of some comfort to you to know that these years of the 1.9 L engine are not the "interference" type. so, if you decide to drive the car until the belt breaks the engine should not suffer any internal damage, but you might have a long walk in the rain sometime.
granted, the gates company is in the business of mfg belts and hoses, but i followed their advice.
i believe(imho), its always a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time, because if the pump fails later you also will be replacing the timing belt again most likely.
i am very picky about maint, so i also flushed the radiator and replaced the thermostat when replacing the belt/waterpump.
do you have a friend that has a ford code scanner? it is easily snapped into the diagnostic port and should tell you if there is a sensor problem or sometimes if the computer itself is faulty. if you are not mechanicly inclined, find a good mechanic and let him run the diagnostic check for you. there are so many things it could be. the code scan should narrow it down or help identify the problem.
just my two cents....
good luck,
lee
Regarding you problem, it doesn't sound like the timing belt to me. It really sounds like a sensor or computer problem. I have to echo Lee's comments, find a mechanic with a code scanner (or take it to a Ford dealer) and they should be able to find your problem.
Good luck.
Dave
You've gotten some very good advice here, but I was wondering if you've had a chance to check out the Our Turn conference which is dedicated to women's automotive issues.
We are fortunate in that we've recently had an automotive technician join us as a co-host for that conference. Her name is Kristina and she uses the ID of md_tech.
Just thought I'd pass this on in case you want to check it out in addition to hanging around here.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
see ya,
lee
Back when I had my 91 Tracer (same as an Escort) I had a problem with an intermittent check engine light. It would pretty much go on and off every time I drove it though, and there were no drivability or stalling problems. The gas mileage also got pretty bad and there was some loss of power.
I put up with it for a few weeks and went to the dealer. They hooked it up to their computer (for $85) and told me it was a bad oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor. They wanted about $250 to fix it.
I said no thanks, and went out and bought the parts for about $95 (genuine Ford parts). I installed them myself in about 45 minutes. I wonder how long they figured it would take?
Anyway, that's what fixed my problem. The computer should store trouble codes for a certain number of restarts of the car, so you may want to try to get it into the dealer on a day when it's acting up.
Good luck. Let us know what happens.
Dave
It looks like it's hard to get to, but it's really not too bad. When you first look at it it looks like you's have to remove the radiator to get at it, but you don't. All I did was disconnect the battery, unplug the wire, and backed it out with the wrench. The new one went right back in.
It took longer to do the TP sensor, but that wasn't bad either. It's held on with two screws. The sensor I took off had no gasket, but the new one came with one. But the hole in the new gasket was too small to fit over the fitting for he sensor, so I "customized" it with an exacto knife so it would fit. Maybe I didn't need it at all, but it worked.
After I had the parts replaced I hooked up the battery, started the car, and let it idle for 5 or 10 minutes to let the computer reprogram itself. After that the check engine light never came on again, and it ran great.
Dave
thanks,
james <</A>><
for it. please respond
Thanks a lot.
but if you use edmunds appraisal feature and list no options but do include 70,000 miles on the auto, i get:
3,025 wholesale(trade in)
4,140 market
4,500 dollars seems a bit high, unless its been meticulously maintained and you must have this particular vehicle. did you use the edmunds appraisal feature to find out what its worth??
i paid 3,300.00 for my 95 lx in march with everything but cruise and its a 5 speed.
purchased on the internet auction(ebay), the owner had numerous pictures on the web and we had many conversations about the car before i actually was confident enough to bid on it...(and it wasn't too far away)...
around 63,000 miles on the clock, from its original owner.
you have for negotiation on price, in my opinion.
Had one in warranty and looks like I have
another at 75,000. Charlie
it would blow antifreeze right out of the overflow bottle when shut off after warmming the car. it seemed to run ok, but i could not keep anti freeze in it. this happened at about 99,000 miles.. i believe the car would probably have gone another 99,000 miles(with a gasket change), but decided a fuel injected escort would be more desirable.
if you ask a specific question, maybe dhoff has more experience in the matter..
regards,
lee
To your knowledge, has your car ever overheated? It's possible you may have a warped head from your car overheating. This can cause the same symptoms as a blown HG, or can actually cause one to blow. If you get the gasket changed again, insist that the shop check the head for flatness and machine it if necessary.
It SHOULD last for much longer then 75,000 miles.
Dave
Daughter drove car to work,all OK.
After work "check coolant" light was on.She drove
home keeping eye on the temp gauge, never above
normal.
I checked recovery tank and added coolant,light
went off. I searched the eng. bay for signs of
leak but no luck.
I drove it around for about 30 mins. checked tank
and rad. coolant OK
I drove it to shop,15 miles, in the AM. Coolant
on the trans. case etc. Tech and I searched for
leak could not find one. Left it for them to
pressure test when cold. Tested and no leak showed
up. Eng bay washed down and dry, I drove it home.
All OK when I got home,temp gauge normal,tank level normal etc.
Next AM I drove it 10 miles, lifted hood and
coolant dripping off trans. case but quick look
and I didn't see leak. Drove it home,"check
coolant light" NOT on and temp gauge normal.
Coolant on engine by that time had dried so no clue where it came from.
Washed down bay and let it dry. Topped off coolant
and let eng run from cold to above normal.
You guessed it-not a drop of coolant any place to
be found in the eng. bay. Levels in eng. OK
I am going back to the shop on Mon. and I am not
taking the car out until the leak is found and
fixed.
How does that tale of woe grab you. Charlie
I still wonder what caused it. If I read your posts correctly, this is the second time it has blown. Two head gaskets in 75,000 miles seems like too much of a coincidence to me.
You might want to ask the tech what could have caused it. If it wasn't overheated, the head could still be warped, or the head bolts weren't torqued correctly, or maybe the thermostat stuck closed.
Good luck.
Dave
Ford dealer made that repair,this time my independent shop is fixing it,have had good
service from these folks for years.
Head is going to machine shop for flatness check
and correction if needed. Getting valve job while they are in there and yes the theromstat will be
replaced. Never had any overheating problems that
I know of however. I got in new.
The tech. doing the job has been "my" tech for
years and the shop owner knows that nobody else
works on my car. He has never let me down and he
and I can talk, I respect him and he respests me.
Maybe it will work out better this time around.I
just bought a new Toyota ,I had two Toyotas and
then gave this Escort Wgn. a chance.
No trouble with either Toyota, both passed to my
daughters. They piled on the miles and traded
them. So I have gone back to them, all info. I
have gathered on the Toys report very good service, time will tell. The first two were made in Japan, but I think the ones made here are just
as good plus the new one has the advantage of all
these years of development.
Daughter #3 got the Escort, she is just out of
College and working so I am funding the repair.
Exterior and Interior are still in great shape
so it will make her a good car after the work.
Charlie Johns Island, SC on the Atlantic ocean
just one more thing that may be a given, but worth mentioning,, did ford ever check the block(deck surface) for straightness also?? if both head and block are out, it may happen again...
i am sorry this experience turned you off on fords.. (i have also read your post on remarq).
i guess i feel about gm the way you now do about ford.. we usually stick to, or go back to what we have had the best luck with...
my wifes 99 grand am has been a real lemon.
i also wish you better luck with the escort in the future,,,
best wishes,
lee huffman
I will post updates on how the car is doing this
time. Charlie
I'm looking for aftermarket headlights for my 98 escort.Preferably I'd like the HID or Superwhites headlights.Are there any websites that can help?
Thanks