Chevrolet TrailBlazer Noises and Sounds
My 2002 Trail Blazer has developed a squeak. It is affected by outside temp and weather. It is intermitted but more prevelant in cooler weather. I have taken it to the Chevrolet Dealer four times to resolve it but to now avail. So far we have replaced bushing, tie rods, and the front end bumper. It sounds like a suspension squeak to me. Can anyone suggest a solution. It is a 4WD.
i have a 2004 trailblazer LT when ever im driving and i turn the wheel and i sometimes hear this grinding or louder rubbing noise in front end so i went to the dealership under warranty and they sayed it was the mud flaps and the dealer installed them before i bought it and still the tire isnt even close to the mud flaps...they come up with some good ones somtimes!
can anyone relate to this?
Was thinking it might be associated with the emergency brake relase cable. The suv, will not move forward at onset, even with foot off the brake peddle. recently had an partial,  corner's brake repairs, re rust cleaning, for $6-800. depending on your currency, this all at 22,000 kilometers. But for several mos. the brakes have been ok, Curious if any similiarty, mine occured only yesterday.
Sorry, about that, but it's the Envoy that I recently turned IN, at lease end, and was distressed on an return from fall hunting trip, as I was wanting to purchase it, the 03', and having 2 problems, trying to clarify the cost, etc., to repair, or replace. Unfortuneately, I decided to do the later. So it's GONE, to the great auction in the sky, and only to-day did recieve my Leasco release, sad sad eh'. & only low klics.
The easy problem I just discovered the source, in 4x4 the steering 'arc', is very wide, as compared to the norm driving 2x2, backroads can be an challenge on these machines, so had an lot of noise in the steering after that outdoor's trip, but noticed only yesterday, my new Trailblazer does the same thing on turning, even in the city, on switching between these 2 modes. The salesperson say's so as well, so I'm really against 4x4 in the city, unless you have 6"'s of snow.
The other problem, certainly is dup.. to you, but don't relate to the emergency cable, altho that was often the case with the earlier larger jeep. If it is, it's the easiest least expensive item to replace/repair, grease wd40 helps, & setting it properly on an slant road.drive is something to be aware of. In my case I had exactly the same temp.. cheap, brake repair job done at an dealer, and for $800., 39 day's from lease-end certainly didn't want to go the full route, for it was only my spouse that ID an slight problem, I saw '0'., nothing that couldn't wait to turn-in.
But, in great concern, went to an local[great] Goodyear Dealer agent/friend, they said the brake job was an piece of 'crap', that I should have had an complete brake job done. I couldn't believe the pile of rust that had accumulated, and their is no doubt that should have been done earlier, he felt some of the rust got onto the drum's, & water from going thru an few creeks, freezing & tough off-road sledding really aggravated the situation. An correction to you, and confirmed here, the low klics. don't mean diddly squat, when it come to brake replacement, it's mostly an time factor. And I'm an bit tough on brakes, 'riding them don't help' any, but no way to get 48 month's esp. wnter, & condition mentioned. For the justified Canadian cost, me think's it's about, $3k or an little less..that stunk me on buying it lease end, our fig. b/o was $18k, which wholesaler's said it was really worth an lower $14k..so I wasn't about to buy brakes on top of that high residual buy-out.
The reason, for such an high figure, $18, struck earlier was reasonable, excepting the high cost of fuel these past few year's collapsed the SUV's wholesale figures. SO good used suv's, low klics are often the first to go & hard to find, but even my dealer, wasn't up to paying with an incentive $17k, C.F's., & passed on the used suv as no equity, trade.
BUt, I'm so very happy with the 2006, Trailblaser, 17" wheel's, but these are an wider platform, make all the difference in the world, better seat's, bush guard, running board's, and spc. graphite paint, dirties easy, but very, very sharp. I bought it year-end really good price, low, $34k, but added $2k stuff, and taxes so on, out at $42k or so. But starting at the lower p/p gives you the flexibility..year-end model's..to buy an 'BEST', suv on the market. These sucker's out-their doing otherwise, & paying, buying in at near $50 & up, for an suv, I don't see it...with auto/suv's, their an depreciating animal, and they all look good for 6 month's...GM is the Best, but the new Ford Exlorer, best deal in Canada, I could find, was $10k more. here we must pay +15%, add this and that, seat's/paint guard on, & on..your easy at +10%, from that p/p/
So, don't fret, the brakes def.. have to be done on an roll-over time frame close to 3 year's, past 4, no-way, even sitting in the driveway. By the way I have an great 'silver/black bush guard that came off the Envoy, in my garage, that cost installed in 03', $1k, for sle cheap..this one had an new chrome B/G... Needed, only in Canada 'U', say many many deer, moose, and very large, Jack & Jackie Snow Shoeee 'Rabbit's', amongst the hill's of the greatest neighbour in the world. How's them's trailblazer's track's treatin 'U'. + k = kannutipper..
But bad steering can really be disconcerting, I'd be into looking at the steering belts, brake and all fluids, by NOW. Water ice snow can also play havoc here, as can loose connections, in an older SUV. The difference, mine was OK in 2 wheel drive, absolutely no problem, but in 4 wheel, on take-off, at service station, 'pretty bad' situation. So the 2 w/D rescue'd me on the spot, to get home, from an trip. Needless to say I didm't go back into 4WD, just prayed, and inspected the brake, finding them the culprit.
Whereas, you appear to me, to seem to have an differential problem, on 'switching' in out of HI, as mentioned. That sound's like..transmission problems to me..for which I became an lay expert with 'cash', as I had to have 3 transmission replacement's in the old jeep grand Waggonner, as mentioned earler, post response. But there were conditions to that situation that don't require addressing here. But, the dropping of the rear end as you indicate, but it would be nice, to post here, for I'm certain, you now have some interest parties following these post's. But, GM - has honest dealer's, they will give you an straight bill of good's, NO Fear. But, I wouldn't concontrate on only 1 problem at an time, no way. + k
Thanks for answering some of my questions, My TB has only been used in 4Hi one other time and it did not make this noise.But for the last 3 days when I started it all the lights came on includeing the N that you don't see unless their is a problem.That is what caused me to check them. When I put it in 4Hi it will not hardly turn left or right,and the wheels squeel real loud on the pavement. Then when I put it back in 2 wheel the whole back end drops and it makes such a loud noise the neighbors down the street could here it.
They called me back after 2 days(dealer)and told me this is normal for it to do this.They also say they have a 4page paper from GM explaining this is normal. :mad: I don't buy this BS and will not buy another.They said the pavement cannot be dry when you use 4HI.
And by the way I do get up real early I'm in Indiana and don't usually get much snow, but it has gotten a little under freezing at night,but nothing like what you are in, I have never been in that cold of weather. Thanks for everything.
Like, you I seldom switch modes, or use the emergency correctly, maintain those items vigorously, check the oils/fluid's. But, at 4 year's it's an young one, you would think great for another '4', but an personal mechanic, in an good garage would be most helpful. I was amazed up in the Ottawa Valley ON, area, to find last fall an GM, dealer had purchased off lease 7 such very nice Envoy, no rather the Buick suz, I until recently had [ictures & communication on some of them, they were all 2005. Very good + condition, like new, they came across the US border, an NY or Ohio GM dealer, with 20k klics, all around the $26-29k C.Fnd.s I wanted to purchase an nice white one, but spouse wouldn't take-on an unknown vehicle, in spite of my, no-concerns. To me they were good legit. deal's, and only qualify that the used suv market, has imploded, &early last year the high cost of gas, was impacting consumer's, already challenged financial resources. But, there can be an advantage in exhanged/fund's between the 2 countries, with some consumer's bring auto's across, but in this case mentioned, an Canadian GM dealer taking advantage of the current situation, I have no problems with that, especially when it's transferred into value added for the buyer, everyone benefit's.
But buying used suv's come with potential added costs, & repair's of the nature that you may now foresee, are expensive, so you have to allow for that in trying to lower your used car purchase price, by $4-5k, then if anything goes awry, you simply have an better chance of breaking even.
When, you get the final on this subject, let us all know what the score is eh! And by the way their has to be other blog's, RSS to get more info., I had been searching around for brakes replacement re GM envoy's, an few months ago, & with experience, mechanic comments, came to the earlier conclusions. Time, weather, moisture, usage, abuse, takes it toll on these suv's, the dealer's know that better than anyone, and the 4 year mark, is the negative turn-around point, we won't escape that. That's why leasing companies prefer to lease vehicle for 3 year's, no problem, getting an handle, on good residual fair market value's as well.
I'm thru on this subject, period. Good Luck! + k, or max8888888888
I see what you mean re the snow & associated slippage with ice, & hills etc. etc. but I think one of the inherent problems with these systems, is the very occasional use, and incorrect use, along with poor maintenance of the vehicles. The dealer's insistance that you can change the modes, on driving, "I'd never do that", your just asking for trouble. My salesperson, an very good-one, much confidence here, commented 'do not use the 4WD/HI in the city', as in unless yopu have this wet bed situation, and 'ample snow' problem, sort of like for emergencies-only. But, country folk's that an different situation, & I'd hate to be commuting w/o the 4WD>HI, some mfg's have the AWD///that really makes sense to me.
I'm visiting my GM dealer maybetoday, as we noticed that only the front wheel-plastic-wells, had only one screw, each, & were flapping around an bit with ice/snow caking, so I'm going in to have all the norm screws installed, ie. similar to the rear-one's, more stabilized.
I'll ask the service mgr. about your problem, hope I've ID'd it properly, and don't waste his time. But, their giving quite cautionary statements, in/when using the HI/4WD as mentioned, that may come from some of this/their former experience, and trying to better educate the consumer. For, some consumer's that is [many I suspect], learn only in the 'field/off road', by trial and error. I recall an long time ago, with the big Jeep, an novice, really needed the assistance from some truck driver hunter-pal's, as I was stuck up to my '[non-permissible content removed]' in mud, & eventually so deep, we had to build an Macadam Road for 200 yard's just to get around and get out of that spot. Each fellow, combined had different expertise to solve the dillema, otherwise we would still be their, or faced with an $600.00 towing bill.
In practical terms, I sort of surprised you inquiry, hasn't brought on an dozen responses, along these lines, more concise than I, but coming from experience's along these lines, simply creating an block of interest and those wanting to share that experience. Otherwise I'm thinking, perhap's, most city folks with SUV's don't utilize the 4WD/HI, as they only have to waive, HI at the local super-market. Then on an emergecy type of thing, in the bush, camping or not, they get stuck,and screw up the mechanical work's were talking about, for I confess earlier I did once myself.
God Bless the warranty, but you appear to be an pragmatic person, and know what your doing and I wish you luck again, it's great fun getting the response from you. Also, we may be similar in nature an bit for I had amply imagined, more problems with my Envoy than were actually realized, for GM Leasco, took it back, with an 4 out of 5, acceptable, good clearance, rating. Essentially, that what their telling you, 'No Problem', maybe their right, for the moment keep the faith, respond again acknowledging their letter-response, & document these thing's as best you can, before your 'W-expiry', for then it will be to late.
It's been educational, so I presume it's you bought the T.B. - new, & stay out of the 'white mountain's eh!. signed On the road -again- Max8888, + k
Having said all of that, we have found that MANY front-end noises and weird, "I can't even tell WHERE that noise is coming from" situations can be explained by GM's bad idea for an intermediate shaft. But, since the bulletins don't apply to the TB family, and GM doesn't have a campaign part # for a new shaft for the TB family, there is little that can be done.It poses no safety hazard, just makes weird noises. So opt for the premium stereo, and crank up the tunes, I guess...hahaha.
An AWD system (at least on the TB) is very different from a fully-locked 4WD system. AWD allows a limited amount of power to be transfered through the front differential to the front wheels when it detects slipping in the rear, to minimize loss of traction and control to the rear wheels. When the switch on your TB is switched to the AWD position, most of the time very little or NO power is actually directed to the front wheels, unless you are in extreme conditions, or driving like a maniac. Thus, factors like steering and turning radius are not negatively affected, since it is not a full 50/50 transfer of drive power between front and rear wheels. The transfer case does not have to cope with the harsh forces that occur under a true 50/50 distribution. That is why AWD is safe for use at highway speeds.
Now, on the TB, the 4HI and LO settings indicate a locked, true 4WD system. Probably not 50/50 distribution, judging from how my TB performs, I would guess 70/30 or possibly 60/40 distribution between rear and front. In this mode, there is much more power being sent to the front differential. I don't know if all 4WD TBs have a posi rear-end, but mine does. In a normal, "open" differential, each axle can rotate at a different speed. This allows each wheel to spin at a different rate, which helps while making turns or traveling uneven terrain, as the outside wheel must travel a farther disatnce than the inside wheel. If differentials did not have this feature, you would constantly be "dragging" one of the wheels. In a posi differential, there are clutches that disengage to allow this difference in travel for each wheel. But, under extreme loads and conditions (i.e. hard acceleration, or being stuck in mud or snow) these clutches engage, "locking" the differential and allowing both axles, and thus wheels, to share the drive power equally. The same is true for the front differential, only with the added stress of wheels that can be turned or are turning. This is why 4WD HI and LO are not recommended for highway speeds or city driving, unless you are experiencing extreme conditions. The short of it is, anything over 25 or 30 mph, in a "locked" 4WD system, on dry pavement,is simply unreasonable. The system is not designed for that. Not to say that there aren't true 4WD systems that can't be driven at highway speeds, but they are very expensive, and definitely not available in a TrailBlazer
And differentials (front or rear) and transfer cases that have not been serviced regularly and are full of worn-out, dirty fluid cannot react as they should. Proper maintenance is a MUST on 4WD vehicles for proper performance and long life. So, as easy as it may seem to just "turn the switch", there is a lot more owning a properly functioning AWD or 4WD vehicle.
I hope this info is helpful!
Indeed it is, thanks!
People may also be interested in 4WD & AWD systems explained.
SUVs and Smart Shopper
SUVs and Smart Shopper
when i turn my wheels hard, i hear a popping sound. I have looked under my truck and nothing stands out that could be causing that noise. It started doing this a couple of weeks ago.
any idea what it could be??
i have a 100,000 k.m 04 trailblazer,a bit troublesome but i love her though
my transmission failed a few months ago and i had to have it rebuilt,it's working pretty fine right now
the problem is that some times i hear a strange resonant noise ,it comes and goes,and varies in intensity,some times it gets really annoying,it seems to be coming from somewhere in the middle of the car
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i think it might be the torque converter or the exhaust mabe
but i hope somebody could help me figuring out what the problem is
I also have a problem with the healights turning off while driving and don't know if these are related.
i just got it back and so far the knocking noise is gone...
Also, my vehicle has a sound coming from under the back rear when I go over small bumps. It's like the rear end is going to fall off. My vehicle sounds like I'm in a cartoon (put put, clink clink, rattle rattle). Someone, anyone do you have a theory. :confuse:
It was called Spline disconnect, which was caused by the bearings gone out of the 4WD front disconnect. It is located on the passenger side of the engine block, the CV Shaft from the passenger side goes into this. I replaced the bearings, and rebuilt the assembly. And fixed my issue.
I have a 2003 Trailblazer that "CHIRPS". . I replaced the front and back brakes and rotors, the chirp still continued. (Brakes and Rotors were necessary) Turn the Air Conditioner on and the CHIRP is present, turn the Air Conditioner off and the CHIRP disappears!! ?????
I also had a SERVICE ENGINE SOON light that comes on. Autozone ran a diagnosis test on it and said I was running 'rich' and my ECT sensor was faulty. Bought a bottle of Lucas Fuel Treatment and Injector Cleaner and added it to the full tank. Bought a new ECT sensor and put that on. (Changed the plugs since they were never changed and I have 125,000 miles on it.) Cleaned and re-oiled the K & N air filter. Started it up and it ran like a top.
Thought everything was GREAT. On the way home the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came back on. Back to AutoZone... now their test shows that the thermostat is not working properly. Will get a new one tomorrow.
But does anyone have any idea why the CHIRP is being heard?? ONLY when the AC is on.. do not hear it when the air conditioner is off. Car Manual and Haynes Manual do not address it.. help please
If you can make the chirp go away by applying some belt dressing, that may be the issue.