Chevrolet TrailBlazer Noises and Sounds

rexjeeprexjeep Member Posts: 2
My 2002 Trail Blazer has developed a squeak. It is affected by outside temp and weather. It is intermitted but more prevelant in cooler weather. I have taken it to the Chevrolet Dealer four times to resolve it but to now avail. So far we have replaced bushing, tie rods, and the front end bumper. It sounds like a suspension squeak to me. Can anyone suggest a solution. It is a 4WD.


  • chevyman69chevyman69 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2004 trailblazer LT when ever im driving and i turn the wheel and i sometimes hear this grinding or louder rubbing noise in front end so i went to the dealership under warranty and they sayed it was the mud flaps and the dealer installed them before i bought it and still the tire isnt even close to the mud flaps...they come up with some good ones somtimes!

    can anyone relate to this?

  • bigbassguy1bigbassguy1 Member Posts: 10
    I experienced this after I had front brakes put on. Basically when turning to the right, you can hear a patternized grinding (kinda like the sound of a sword being drawn from the sheath). I just jacked the front end up, then turn the wheel then spun the tire to see where it was coming from. It ended up being a section of the rotor rubbing when the wheel was turned. I simply grinded the high spot down a little which resolved the problem. hope this helps
  • pureblue146pureblue146 Member Posts: 3
    Recently, my '04 Trailblazer EXT has been making a grinding type of noise several seconds after I start it up. The noise usually occure while still in park, mabye because it only happens just after I start it, but has happened just after putting it in gear. It seems to be coming from under the vehicle. I noticed that just once last week the "service 4WD" light came on while driving. The light went off after parking and shutting the engine off and hasn't returnd on again since. I wonder if the two are related. During a recent routine service appt I told the dealer about the warning light and he said that the computer needed recalibrating which he claimed to do. Has anyone else expirernced the grinding noise or have an idea what it might be?
  • max8888max8888 Member Posts: 5
    HI: I'm curious if you still have this problem, and by now where is it, ie. the noise, for I have an rear brake's release problem, on start-up, but not in 2WD, only at onset of 4WD, with an low K's, 03'-Trailblazer.
    Was thinking it might be associated with the emergency brake relase cable. The suv, will not move forward at onset, even with foot off the brake peddle. recently had an partial, [4] corner's brake repairs, re rust cleaning, for $6-800. depending on your currency, this all at 22,000 kilometers. But for several mos. the brakes have been ok, Curious if any similiarty, mine occured only yesterday.
  • murrr77murrr77 Member Posts: 30
    I had a simmilar problem with my 02 TBZ. It was more of a rubbing/squeek noise, not like a brake squeek at all. First fixed under warranty, then 4k later same issue, then another 4k later out of warranty, but I made sure they fixed it (I think they had been spraying with a lubricant before). Two weeks in shop, they replaced all sorts of parts but ended up being lower control arm.
  • debnmarv261debnmarv261 Member Posts: 3
    When I put my TB in 4 HI it does fine driveing straight but, when I make a turn it won't hardly move and the rear tires squeal on the ground. When you put it back in 2 wheel it makes a really loud noise and the back end drops real hard down.They called me yesterday and said they compared it to 2-3 others and this may be normal. I don't think its normal when your in wheel drive and can only go straight. Has anyone else had this problem or know what it sounds like. Hopefuuly the will figure it out today,for their sake. :confuse:
  • max8888max8888 Member Posts: 5
    HI D & M: Your either an earlier riser, or late to bed, as 'Ur' email came in to Kanada's, great white Norther at 20 below zero this Thurs., post the Dallas nhl all-star's game europhia, & great fun. I had forgot, I had post'd this, had 2 problem's. But first of all, I just wanted to say, at age 70+, I've owned suv's for decades, since the last year of the big, Jeep grand [14 yrs.]wagoneer, then an norm size jeep, then an Toyota 4runn'r. Then an actual 03' Envoy, now for 2 mos. an 06' Trailblazer. The GMC, SUV remain's the best value, of them all, & I keep them average 3-4 yrs, have an 93' Caddy, new, onset, low klics. The transition from the old technology Wagoneer to the new, was an joy to behold. But, in my opinion GM really got it right, great performance, great style, great value, & now with Onstar.
    Sorry, about that, but it's the Envoy that I recently turned IN, at lease end, and was distressed on an return from fall hunting trip, as I was wanting to purchase it, the 03', and having 2 problems, trying to clarify the cost, etc., to repair, or replace. Unfortuneately, I decided to do the later. So it's GONE, to the great auction in the sky, and only to-day did recieve my Leasco release, sad sad eh'. & only low klics.
    The easy problem I just discovered the source, in 4x4 the steering 'arc', is very wide, as compared to the norm driving 2x2, backroads can be an challenge on these machines, so had an lot of noise in the steering after that outdoor's trip, but noticed only yesterday, my new Trailblazer does the same thing on turning, even in the city, on switching between these 2 modes. The salesperson say's so as well, so I'm really against 4x4 in the city, unless you have 6"'s of snow.
    The other problem, certainly is dup.. to you, but don't relate to the emergency cable, altho that was often the case with the earlier larger jeep. If it is, it's the easiest least expensive item to replace/repair, grease wd40 helps, & setting it properly on an slant is something to be aware of. In my case I had exactly the same temp.. cheap, brake repair job done at an dealer, and for $800., 39 day's from lease-end certainly didn't want to go the full route, for it was only my spouse that ID an slight problem, I saw '0'., nothing that couldn't wait to turn-in.
    But, in great concern, went to an local[great] Goodyear Dealer agent/friend, they said the brake job was an piece of 'crap', that I should have had an complete brake job done. I couldn't believe the pile of rust that had accumulated, and their is no doubt that should have been done earlier, he felt some of the rust got onto the drum's, & water from going thru an few creeks, freezing & tough off-road sledding really aggravated the situation. An correction to you, and confirmed here, the low klics. don't mean diddly squat, when it come to brake replacement, it's mostly an time factor. And I'm an bit tough on brakes, 'riding them don't help' any, but no way to get 48 month's esp. wnter, & condition mentioned. For the justified Canadian cost, me think's it's about, $3k or an little less..that stunk me on buying it lease end, our fig. b/o was $18k, which wholesaler's said it was really worth an lower $ I wasn't about to buy brakes on top of that high residual buy-out.
    The reason, for such an high figure, $18, struck earlier was reasonable, excepting the high cost of fuel these past few year's collapsed the SUV's wholesale figures. SO good used suv's, low klics are often the first to go & hard to find, but even my dealer, wasn't up to paying with an incentive $17k, C.F's., & passed on the used suv as no equity, trade.
    BUt, I'm so very happy with the 2006, Trailblaser, 17" wheel's, but these are an wider platform, make all the difference in the world, better seat's, bush guard, running board's, and spc. graphite paint, dirties easy, but very, very sharp. I bought it year-end really good price, low, $34k, but added $2k stuff, and taxes so on, out at $42k or so. But starting at the lower p/p gives you the flexibility..year-end model' buy an 'BEST', suv on the market. These sucker's out-their doing otherwise, & paying, buying in at near $50 & up, for an suv, I don't see it...with auto/suv's, their an depreciating animal, and they all look good for 6 month's...GM is the Best, but the new Ford Exlorer, best deal in Canada, I could find, was $10k more. here we must pay +15%, add this and that, seat's/paint guard on, & on..your easy at +10%, from that p/p/
    So, don't fret, the brakes def.. have to be done on an roll-over time frame close to 3 year's, past 4, no-way, even sitting in the driveway. By the way I have an great 'silver/black bush guard that came off the Envoy, in my garage, that cost installed in 03', $1k, for sle cheap..this one had an new chrome B/G... Needed, only in Canada 'U', say many many deer, moose, and very large, Jack & Jackie Snow Shoeee 'Rabbit's', amongst the hill's of the greatest neighbour in the world. How's them's trailblazer's track's treatin 'U'. + k = kannutipper..
  • max8888max8888 Member Posts: 5
    HI: D & M: Me again Max88888 or kannutipper. Sorry about that long email, maybe you have by co-incidence like I, did. Steering, and rea-end, or brakes. I don't think it's as simple as my situation. But I was able to dump mine, and GM, didn't feel, nor the dealer their was an really serious situation.
    But bad steering can really be disconcerting, I'd be into looking at the steering belts, brake and all fluids, by NOW. Water ice snow can also play havoc here, as can loose connections, in an older SUV. The difference, mine was OK in 2 wheel drive, absolutely no problem, but in 4 wheel, on take-off, at service station, 'pretty bad' situation. So the 2 w/D rescue'd me on the spot, to get home, from an trip. Needless to say I didm't go back into 4WD, just prayed, and inspected the brake, finding them the culprit.
    Whereas, you appear to me, to seem to have an differential problem, on 'switching' in out of HI, as mentioned. That sound's like..transmission problems to me..for which I became an lay expert with 'cash', as I had to have 3 transmission replacement's in the old jeep grand Waggonner, as mentioned earler, post response. But there were conditions to that situation that don't require addressing here. But, the dropping of the rear end as you indicate, but it would be nice, to post here, for I'm certain, you now have some interest parties following these post's. But, GM - has honest dealer's, they will give you an straight bill of good's, NO Fear. But, I wouldn't concontrate on only 1 problem at an time, no way. + k
  • debnmarv261debnmarv261 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for answering some of my questions, My TB has only been used in 4Hi one other time and it did not make this noise.But for the last 3 days when I started it all the lights came on includeing the N that you don't see unless their is a problem.That is what caused me to check them. When I put it in 4Hi it will not hardly turn left or right,and the wheels squeel real loud on the pavement. Then when I put it back in 2 wheel the whole back end drops and it makes such a loud noise the neighbors down the street could here it.
    They called me back after 2 days(dealer)and told me this is normal for it to do this.They also say they have a 4page paper from GM explaining this is normal. :mad: I don't buy this BS and will not buy another.They said the pavement cannot be dry when you use 4HI.
    And by the way I do get up real early I'm in Indiana and don't usually get much snow, but it has gotten a little under freezing at night,but nothing like what you are in, I have never been in that cold of weather. Thanks for everything.
  • max8888max8888 Member Posts: 5
    HI Indiana Jones, never b een there, but max 8, from around the 'track'. Wow, i think you have an expensive solution coming down the grid. Guess your sorry, for the use of 4HI, & like me, thanks for 2WD ok, useage. By now, take it elsewhere, an private transmission garage, but be aware they love to replace, even good transmissions, stay with the vehicle. it seem's to me the noise, is coming from an differential problem, has the suv been abused, like some of my outdoor's work, & hauling tonnes, tonnes of garden supplies. Guess I'm thinking maybe the shocks, spring's have been challenge'd, & simply couldn't handle the mode reset in/out 4HI. With that kind of an dramatic drop in the back chassis, you would think, the next time it will seize up on you. I recall, on wilderness trips when we had to get out of the vehicle, and change, switch the wheel hub's to get into low 4WD, and alway's stop the vehicle in changing these modes. So, my mind is away back there, in use/convenience, and alway's worried about problems, for the solutions are expensive. I presume, you have had the 03' since new, if 'not' then damage to it, abuse could have occured away-back, irregardless of the low klics.
    Like, you I seldom switch modes, or use the emergency correctly, maintain those items vigorously, check the oils/fluid's. But, at 4 year's it's an young one, you would think great for another '4', but an personal mechanic, in an good garage would be most helpful. I was amazed up in the Ottawa Valley ON, area, to find last fall an GM, dealer had purchased off lease 7 such very nice Envoy, no rather the Buick suz, I until recently had [ictures & communication on some of them, they were all 2005. Very good + condition, like new, they came across the US border, an NY or Ohio GM dealer, with 20k klics, all around the $26-29k C.Fnd.s I wanted to purchase an nice white one, but spouse wouldn't take-on an unknown vehicle, in spite of my, no-concerns. To me they were good legit. deal's, and only qualify that the used suv market, has imploded, &early last year the high cost of gas, was impacting consumer's, already challenged financial resources. But, there can be an advantage in exhanged/fund's between the 2 countries, with some consumer's bring auto's across, but in this case mentioned, an Canadian GM dealer taking advantage of the current situation, I have no problems with that, especially when it's transferred into value added for the buyer, everyone benefit's.
    But buying used suv's come with potential added costs, & repair's of the nature that you may now foresee, are expensive, so you have to allow for that in trying to lower your used car purchase price, by $4-5k, then if anything goes awry, you simply have an better chance of breaking even.
    When, you get the final on this subject, let us all know what the score is eh! And by the way their has to be other blog's, RSS to get more info., I had been searching around for brakes replacement re GM envoy's, an few months ago, & with experience, mechanic comments, came to the earlier conclusions. Time, weather, moisture, usage, abuse, takes it toll on these suv's, the dealer's know that better than anyone, and the 4 year mark, is the negative turn-around point, we won't escape that. That's why leasing companies prefer to lease vehicle for 3 year's, no problem, getting an handle, on good residual fair market value's as well.
    I'm thru on this subject, period. Good Luck! + k, or max8888888888
  • debnmarv261debnmarv261 Member Posts: 3
    Well they kept my TB for a third day and the manager went with us this time and we showed him what it was doing. He thought it was not right either.Made me feel better. But the next day I got a call saying that this is normal and it will sound louder sometimes than other when you go from 4HI down to 2wd.They compared it to others and they done the same. I did recieve a letter from GM that also says this about their 4WD from 2005 back prior to 2002. I guess I won't know if it changes the sound of the noise in snow unless we get a lot real soon. They also do state you are not to drive in 4HI under normal conditions only in mud,sand, snow,& ice. So for now I guess I will have to live with their decision.I still have a lot of warranty left so I guess thats good.
  • max8888max8888 Member Posts: 5
    HI Again; but I'm wanting to say Indiana Jones, because you will need this 'savy' to work thru this before the warranty expiry, which I presume you bought both the [suv] new/onset. Because, your not specific in saying it's, an ID - Differential transit mechanical problem, to my knowledge, 07 GM products have an 5yr warranty only, our 06 was offered additional tenure on that, & we have an open 12 mos. period to extend it, with you recent experience, comments, we are certainly going to sign up for that, maybe the competition will soon go to an Toyota '7', & we all can benefit, on timing & 'qualificatio'.
    I see what you mean re the snow & associated slippage with ice, & hills etc. etc. but I think one of the inherent problems with these systems, is the very occasional use, and incorrect use, along with poor maintenance of the vehicles. The dealer's insistance that you can change the modes, on driving, "I'd never do that", your just asking for trouble. My salesperson, an very good-one, much confidence here, commented 'do not use the 4WD/HI in the city', as in unless yopu have this wet bed situation, and 'ample snow' problem, sort of like for emergencies-only. But, country folk's that an different situation, & I'd hate to be commuting w/o the 4WD>HI, some mfg's have the AWD///that really makes sense to me.
    I'm visiting my GM dealer maybetoday, as we noticed that only the front wheel-plastic-wells, had only one screw, each, & were flapping around an bit with ice/snow caking, so I'm going in to have all the norm screws installed, ie. similar to the rear-one's, more stabilized.
    I'll ask the service mgr. about your problem, hope I've ID'd it properly, and don't waste his time. But, their giving quite cautionary statements, in/when using the HI/4WD as mentioned, that may come from some of this/their former experience, and trying to better educate the consumer. For, some consumer's that is [many I suspect], learn only in the 'field/off road', by trial and error. I recall an long time ago, with the big Jeep, an novice, really needed the assistance from some truck driver hunter-pal's, as I was stuck up to my '[non-permissible content removed]' in mud, & eventually so deep, we had to build an Macadam Road for 200 yard's just to get around and get out of that spot. Each fellow, combined had different expertise to solve the dillema, otherwise we would still be their, or faced with an $600.00 towing bill.
    In practical terms, I sort of surprised you inquiry, hasn't brought on an dozen responses, along these lines, more concise than I, but coming from experience's along these lines, simply creating an block of interest and those wanting to share that experience. Otherwise I'm thinking, perhap's, most city folks with SUV's don't utilize the 4WD/HI, as they only have to waive, HI at the local super-market. Then on an emergecy type of thing, in the bush, camping or not, they get stuck,and screw up the mechanical work's were talking about, for I confess earlier I did once myself.
    God Bless the warranty, but you appear to be an pragmatic person, and know what your doing and I wish you luck again, it's great fun getting the response from you. Also, we may be similar in nature an bit for I had amply imagined, more problems with my Envoy than were actually realized, for GM Leasco, took it back, with an 4 out of 5, acceptable, good clearance, rating. Essentially, that what their telling you, 'No Problem', maybe their right, for the moment keep the faith, respond again acknowledging their letter-response, & document these thing's as best you can, before your 'W-expiry', for then it will be to late.
    It's been educational, so I presume it's you bought the T.B. - new, & stay out of the 'white mountain's eh!. signed On the road -again- Max8888, + k
  • eddie64eddie64 Member Posts: 4
    i have an 03 tb ext my service 4wd light comes on but when i check the fuse box in the engine compartment the fuse is blown after i replace the fuse light goes off for a couple of days but it keeps blown the fuse it started 2 weeks ago did anyone had this problem before it has 90.000
  • jworkmanjworkman Member Posts: 27
    GM redesigned the intermediate shafts on the steering systems of most of their vehicles several years ago....and have had NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS since! Just in the last year since I have worked at a GM dealership, GM has issued at least 5 service and parts bulletins on different fixes for this problem. Everything from "just grease the shaft and pack it well", to "replace the whole damn thing"...the current fix. Unfortunately, the TB shares this crummy two-piece design, but oddly enough, none of the bulletins apply to the TB family, only full-size trucks and some of the car lines.

    Having said all of that, we have found that MANY front-end noises and weird, "I can't even tell WHERE that noise is coming from" situations can be explained by GM's bad idea for an intermediate shaft. But, since the bulletins don't apply to the TB family, and GM doesn't have a campaign part # for a new shaft for the TB family, there is little that can be done.It poses no safety hazard, just makes weird noises. So opt for the premium stereo, and crank up the tunes, I guess...hahaha.
  • jworkmanjworkman Member Posts: 27
    This is not intended to "talk down" to anyone, so please don't interpret it so. From reading a lot of the posts on this and other threads, it appears to me that a lot of TB owners don't understand the difference in AWD and 4WD. Or positraction rear-end differentials and how to maintain 4wd systems and front diffs, for that matter.
    An AWD system (at least on the TB) is very different from a fully-locked 4WD system. AWD allows a limited amount of power to be transfered through the front differential to the front wheels when it detects slipping in the rear, to minimize loss of traction and control to the rear wheels. When the switch on your TB is switched to the AWD position, most of the time very little or NO power is actually directed to the front wheels, unless you are in extreme conditions, or driving like a maniac. Thus, factors like steering and turning radius are not negatively affected, since it is not a full 50/50 transfer of drive power between front and rear wheels. The transfer case does not have to cope with the harsh forces that occur under a true 50/50 distribution. That is why AWD is safe for use at highway speeds.

    Now, on the TB, the 4HI and LO settings indicate a locked, true 4WD system. Probably not 50/50 distribution, judging from how my TB performs, I would guess 70/30 or possibly 60/40 distribution between rear and front. In this mode, there is much more power being sent to the front differential. I don't know if all 4WD TBs have a posi rear-end, but mine does. In a normal, "open" differential, each axle can rotate at a different speed. This allows each wheel to spin at a different rate, which helps while making turns or traveling uneven terrain, as the outside wheel must travel a farther disatnce than the inside wheel. If differentials did not have this feature, you would constantly be "dragging" one of the wheels. In a posi differential, there are clutches that disengage to allow this difference in travel for each wheel. But, under extreme loads and conditions (i.e. hard acceleration, or being stuck in mud or snow) these clutches engage, "locking" the differential and allowing both axles, and thus wheels, to share the drive power equally. The same is true for the front differential, only with the added stress of wheels that can be turned or are turning. This is why 4WD HI and LO are not recommended for highway speeds or city driving, unless you are experiencing extreme conditions. The short of it is, anything over 25 or 30 mph, in a "locked" 4WD system, on dry pavement,is simply unreasonable. The system is not designed for that. Not to say that there aren't true 4WD systems that can't be driven at highway speeds, but they are very expensive, and definitely not available in a TrailBlazer

    And differentials (front or rear) and transfer cases that have not been serviced regularly and are full of worn-out, dirty fluid cannot react as they should. Proper maintenance is a MUST on 4WD vehicles for proper performance and long life. So, as easy as it may seem to just "turn the switch", there is a lot more owning a properly functioning AWD or 4WD vehicle.

    I hope this info is helpful!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I hope this info is helpful!

    Indeed it is, thanks!

    People may also be interested in 4WD & AWD systems explained.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • pureblue146pureblue146 Member Posts: 3
  • sheadshead Member Posts: 2
    Ok today this noise started, it sound like a tractor trailer taking off. Does anyone know what this could be?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Check 2000 Chevy Blazer making noise to see whether this is similar to your problem.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • sheadshead Member Posts: 2
  • jackieajackiea Member Posts: 1
    Yep it's your fan clutch in your engine cooling system. Happened on my a few days ago. Many problems with this yr/make vehicle. We all need to get together & file claims with GM (I already started one) also report problems to National Hwy & Traffic Counsel. Also write your state's attorney gen. do all this so we can get a recall started on sway bars, balljts, tie rods, 4x4 quit working, etc. do I need to go on!
  • abby7abby7 Member Posts: 1
    Hissing noise recently started on my 2003 Trailblazer, seems to be coming from instrument panel area. Found the title on TSB 050235006-but don't have the details--anyone else having this issue?
  • jaws24jaws24 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 TB ext - Right after it is started a loud clicking sound can be heard from the rear passenger side !! It clicks for about 3 to 4 minutes and then it stops, everything seems normal after the first 3 - 4 mins. It just started yesterday... Does anyone have any input on this issue !!! Thanks in Advance...
  • rwyatt80rwyatt80 Member Posts: 4
    I have had the hissing issue from my instrument cluster as well..I will check the fan clutch this week.

    when i turn my wheels hard, i hear a popping sound. I have looked under my truck and nothing stands out that could be causing that noise. It started doing this a couple of weeks ago.

    any idea what it could be??
  • cussinscussins Member Posts: 1
    Hi. This is my first attempt at a forum and I really could use some ideas. I have a 2002 TB that has an intermittent growling noise coming from the front. It seems to show up in colder weather (30?? and below). I'm getting this info second hand (this is the wife's vehicle) so bear with me. I thought that the fan clutch might be failing but a few days ago, when she heard the noise again, she was turning everything off (radio, heater fan, etc) she noticed the 4 wheel indicator light blinking - TB was in 2 wheel drive. This seems to manifest while driving. If she parks the TB and comes out later and takes off the problem is gone. I haven't had this experience, but she has told me about it several times last winter and several more this year. Any ideas?
  • brinakbrinak Member Posts: 2
    I have an 02 Trailblazer. Recently, I experienced a loss of acceleration while driving. I had my cruise set on 65 and suddenly the vehicle just lost acceleration and nothing happened when I mashed the gas pedal. I pulled over and came to a complete stop and then the vehicle would accelerate but about a 1/2 mile up the road the same thing happened again. The vehicle idles smoothly when I pull over. I put it in 3rd gear and kept the RPM between 1500 and 2000 and got it to the shop. They replaced the MAP sensor but the next day the same thing happened again when I got the vehicle up to about 60 MPH. I took it back to the shop (no fault lights were lit up on the dash) and they checked it out and eventually said the MAP sensor they put it was faulty. The vehicle drove fine for about 3 days and then this morning the same thing happened again and the vehicle lost acceleration. Has anyone had this issue or have any suggestions?
  • phillipscphillipsc Member Posts: 1
    My 03 did the exact same thing yesterday. Having the fuel filter changed, it is time for that anyway, but after looking around on the threads, that may not fix it. Let me know what you find out!
  • bigblue7bigblue7 Member Posts: 1
    I also have an 04 EXT, and this horrible clicking noise is coming from the rear passenger cargo/third row area behind the paneling. Does anyone have a clue what this could be???
  • jbeal1jbeal1 Member Posts: 1
    I was hearing a clicking, ping noise under the hood. It was not constant and sounded like a component was turning on, it would click (ping)steady for a while and then stop.It sounded like the fan was hitting something under the hood. What I found was that it was the fan clutch. Fan clutch cost was $290. This fixed my problem.
  • kashwaakashwaa Member Posts: 1
    hi guys

    i have a 100,000 k.m 04 trailblazer,a bit troublesome but i love her though

    my transmission failed a few months ago and i had to have it rebuilt,it's working pretty fine right now

    the problem is that some times i hear a strange resonant noise ,it comes and goes,and varies in intensity,some times it gets really annoying,it seems to be coming from somewhere in the middle of the car

    it appears only somewhere between 1500 and 2000 rpm,once it gets below 1500 or over 2000 ,it disappears right away

    i think it might be the torque converter or the exhaust mabe
    but i hope somebody could help me figuring out what the problem is
  • jerry94jerry94 Member Posts: 3
    My wife and I moved from Ca. to Southern Utah last January,and being in snow conditions wanted a 4x4 SUV. As we couldn't afford a new one we bought a used EXT 2002 TB from a used car dealer. The car was used by the original owner to commute from ST George UT. to Los Vages for several years,so it has high millage. The car looked well taken care of and regular maintaince looked to be done on it. As we bought it in the winter, the windows were always rolled up when driving,but we could always hear a slight noise, what I would describe as a slight grinding noise. seemed like it was coming from the dash. I thought perhaps a vent fan.As the weather has got better and in Cedar City UT,you can drive around most of the time without A/C with the windows are down. The other day this noise was really getting to me,but when you come to a stop light the noise goes away. Being a "shade tree mechanic" years ago when you could still do some things your self,I thought drive line. When I got hone I crawled under the TB grabbed the drive shaft, and you could wiggle it back and forth a little, and sure enough the noise was about the same. So it appears the u-joints need replaced. My question is can an old "shade tree mechanic" do this at home with it up on jack stands with basic tools. or do you need a special press to press out the u-joint?
  • jerry94jerry94 Member Posts: 3
    The same guy the posted the drive line noise. Two other questions. When you start the TB, not every time but perhaps 80% of the time there is a loud knocking noise from the dash. 3-4 loud knocks.I am thinking a vent door opening or closing. Once in awhile it will do it while driving, but most of the time at start up. Also it seems like the engine really winds up before the tranny shifts. Sometimes it has to reach around 3000 rpm before shifting. Is this normal? Thanks for any help.P.S. It has the in line 6
  • gartergarter Member Posts: 1
    Hi: 2006 TB R/R wheel area a growling type sound for 1 r 2 revoltions and its gone? any ideas as to what it might be? Please don't say bearing
  • crappychevy33crappychevy33 Member Posts: 1
    The same happened to me. No acceleration, got worse over time. It was a clogged catalytic converter. I had it replaced (at 86,000mi) however, the shop cracked my exhaust manifold getting it off and would not take responsibility for it. I have not fixed that yet but acceleration is back to brand new.
  • ticadooticadoo Member Posts: 40
    How would I begin to file a claim with GM? I am so sick and tired of the problems with my 03 Trailblazer..I only have 66,000 miles on it and I would compare it to a truck that had 300,000 miles on it!!
  • luisin22luisin22 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2003 Trail Blazer 4x4 but I've noticed a noise with vibration in the steering wheel, this noise, and vibration starts when i accelerate and increases depending on the speed, but his only happens when driving in straight line or right turn. if I turn left even sligthly the sound and vibration ends, I'm driving it in 2H, and even the 4DWH and 4H makes that sound, What can be the problem?
  • mkb3mkb3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 TB with the inline 6 and I have the same knocking noise -usually 3 knocks- in the dash in front of the steering column. It happens at start up or within the first 3 minutes of driving.

    I also have a problem with the healights turning off while driving and don't know if these are related.
  • tkelly1108tkelly1108 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 TB that I bought in July of this year with only 10,714 miles on it. It has developed a loud popping/knocking noise mostly upon start-up but it has happend when in reverse and also in drive. I have had to the dealership 2 times, once they said that it was the drive shaft and the second time they said it could possibly be the AC clutch. They said that they could not duplicate the noise. Does anybody have any ideas of where to go now.
  • n3xjtn3xjt Member Posts: 2
    In 2WD, when decelerating, from between 40 and 50 MPH,I get a grinding noise in the front end, it almost sounds like it is trying to engage the 4WD. If I put the selector in AWD, the noise goes away. It has been so cold, I haven't had the opportunity to take the wheels off and inspect. I did take a peek at the CV joints, and the boots look intact. Any help would be appreciated.
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    Have the upper and lower control arms looked at.
  • fj4072fj4072 Member Posts: 29
    I forgot the most common issue. Check the hood latch and the bump stops, these can make a lot of squeaky noises.
  • ljansonljanson Member Posts: 1
    i had this same problem with my 2003 TB.. just got it fixed by resetting the system.they said... they called it a "calibration error" they also said "calibration outdated the PCM calibration needed to be updated to correct concern" and..." PCM controls fan clutch engagement"." the ticking noise is caused by PCM timing when to en gauge and disengage the fan clutch at idle speed.".

    i just got it back and so far the knocking noise is gone...
  • gjb61gjb61 Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem, i changed both outer front axles front end synthetic oil and rotors and pads. after changing the right side the noise changed from a constant drone to a drone that goes away as you steer to one side. i am wondering if the center shaft is the problem and when i engaged the right shaft into it that changed something. any feedback-help will be appreciated.
  • mbassettmbassett Member Posts: 1
    I have an intermittent noise that plays through the speakers, with the radio on. The noise seems to change in pitch as i accelerate and reduce speed. The noise comes and goes, but never when I have it at the chevrolet dealership. I have had it there 3 times, but they cannot duplicate sound. This has been going on for more than 50k miles and I am up to 89k. I think that the noise is coming from something in the engine. Does anybody have any ideas? I want to get rid of truck, but I don't want to dump this problem on someone else.
  • brokencheytb2brokencheytb2 Member Posts: 2
    My 2004 TB is also sounding like a tractor trailer. My husband thinks it is the manifold. If you have a bad manifold, would it make a put put sound when you accelerate?
    Also, my vehicle has a sound coming from under the back rear when I go over small bumps. It's like the rear end is going to fall off. My vehicle sounds like I'm in a cartoon (put put, clink clink, rattle rattle). Someone, anyone do you have a theory. :confuse:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Could be an exhaust manifold leak, but it's by no means is for sure. The noise in the back shouldn't be hard to locate if it's that bad. Whatever it is probably is very loose, but someone has to get under there and look. Usually in this case you need to jack the rear from under the axle so the rear suspension stays in the unextended position, but I don't have any trouble crawling under our 02 for a quick look underneath without jacking it up.
  • n3xjtn3xjt Member Posts: 2
    I have found the issue.
    It was called Spline disconnect, which was caused by the bearings gone out of the 4WD front disconnect. It is located on the passenger side of the engine block, the CV Shaft from the passenger side goes into this. I replaced the bearings, and rebuilt the assembly. And fixed my issue. ;)
  • postalgirl6976postalgirl6976 Member Posts: 2
    I have 2 problems...
    I have a 2003 Trailblazer that "CHIRPS". . I replaced the front and back brakes and rotors, the chirp still continued. (Brakes and Rotors were necessary) Turn the Air Conditioner on and the CHIRP is present, turn the Air Conditioner off and the CHIRP disappears!! ?????
    I also had a SERVICE ENGINE SOON light that comes on. Autozone ran a diagnosis test on it and said I was running 'rich' and my ECT sensor was faulty. Bought a bottle of Lucas Fuel Treatment and Injector Cleaner and added it to the full tank. Bought a new ECT sensor and put that on. (Changed the plugs since they were never changed and I have 125,000 miles on it.) Cleaned and re-oiled the K & N air filter. Started it up and it ran like a top.
    Thought everything was GREAT. On the way home the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came back on. Back to AutoZone... now their test shows that the thermostat is not working properly. Will get a new one tomorrow.
    But does anyone have any idea why the CHIRP is being heard?? ONLY when the AC is on.. do not hear it when the air conditioner is off. Car Manual and Haynes Manual do not address it.. help please
  • postalgirl6976postalgirl6976 Member Posts: 2
    I also changed the Serpentine belt.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited July 2011
    Bit of a long shot, but some belts have logos that are painted on and sometimes the logos can make an irritating noise as the belt goes around the pulleys.

    If you can make the chirp go away by applying some belt dressing, that may be the issue.
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