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We are having the same problem with our Ranger. Just replaced fuel pump, several sensors, spark plugs, wires, checked for vacuum leaks. Drove it a couple hundred miles last weekend, no problem. Drove it about a hundred miles on Monday, no problem. Drove it five miles today and it died on the highway. Starts good, runs good then starts sputtering and then dies. Sometimes it will start right away after it dies other times I have to wait.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Can't afford a big mechanic bill right now. :sick:
I have an 86 ranger 4 cylinder fuel injected and was having stalling problems OK I replaced about everything related to the fuel system ( relays switches injectors filters everything ) it would jerk and die on me , I was about to junk it when I saw a kind of round thing bolted to frame by gas tank the fuel lines went through it so I took it off and sure enough it comes apart and there was a metal filter inside so I took it out then got it back together and sure enough that was the problem . The thing is not in the Chilton . 237,000 miles on my truck and now except for some minor things it runs great
How often was it dying? When it died, did it start right away?
My Ranger is a stick and I can restart it immediately.
This has been doing this since last October. I only drive it about 250 - 300 miiles a month in the City.
It can die 3 times in 10 miles or go 300 miles and only die once.
I keep a very close eye on my mpg and it was always at 20 1/2 to 21 mpg, until this started. I'm now at about 18 1/2. So, I think something is happening other than dying every once and awhile.
202k miles and does great except for this.
I'm not getting rid of this truck and I'm not spending big bucks unless I'm sure I have a fix.
my 93 ranger has been driving me nuts for nearly 6 months... you name it, its new.. every sensor but TPS which i have but not installed yet..
chased a bad/intermittant ICM for 4 months finally after having the CPS replaced by my local ford dealer was told to replace the ICM even though it tested good, sure enough truck has been running fine for last 2 weeks..
then all of the sudden yesterday it didnt want to start again. had to crank it a number of times and it finally started and was able to drive it home the 14 miles home and right around the corner from my house it quit, coasted to the shoulder waited a minute and it started back up and i made it home..
went back out last night and didnt want to start again, finally it started drove where i had to go shut it off and it started back up and ran fine once again.. has new fuel pump and all relays/fuses in power box were replaced back in february, coil packs, complete tune up
not sure what to do now, inertia switch???? fuel pressure regulator???? ignition switch???
quite frankly im tired of throwing money in to it but i have a bear by the tail so to speak..
This is what I did. I extended the wires going to the ICM and mounted the ICM on the driver's side on the fender wall near the fuse/relay box. I put screws and nuts in the mounting holes and ran wires from them to a good ground. I did this for two reasons, the original location is hard to get to and also the ICM stays a lot cooler mounted away from the engine. I am thinking that heat was causing the ICM to intermittently fail. Since I did that, I put on 30,000 miles without a problem. I recently sold my Ranger because of a recent injury made it hard for me to drive a standard. I still see it running around town so I assume it is still running good.
I have a 86 ford ranger and while i was driving down 95 it just completely shut off on me as is the gas ran out but it had a half of a tank in it. What could be wrong with it? It wont start at all now
my 91 ranger has a fuel cut-off switch located at the top of passenger side footwell. pull the carpeting back and there it is. supposed to activate when/if i hit a BIG bump or t-bone something. dunno if your '86 has the same thing but easy enough to check and give it a try.
bypassed my inertia switch, still doing it.. last week i also unplugged the new IAC valve and truck ran perfect, thought that was it replaced the IAC and the same problem is back again..
beating my head against the wall, wife wants new car and i want to use this for a trade in BUT i cant do that to someone... i want it running right before i trade it in....
still would like to know if kopfhunter got to the bottom of his problem as his sounds exactly like mine
already cleaned/replaced.... swapped out the MAF again yesterday with one from pick a part.. so far so good, have to run it more.. from what i have found during my research possibly the new one i bought is no good as bad MAF can cause the symptoms i and others are having having..
noticed on mine today that it does it on a heavy bump like pot hole or something like that, does it nearly every time on the same left hand turn and bumps in a small town not far from me..
also noticed that if i try to start it it wont restart UNLESS i turn ignition all the way off and then back to start.. only then will it restart.. starting to think it may be the ignition switch if that is possible
Im not sure if yiu guys are still having issues. But my 95 dodge ram 1500 had the same problem I went through all the sensors fuel pressure was ffinenew coil and coil wire. It turned out to be the wireharness cinnector ti the coil. I rewired it a few times and taped it up but still jogged loose. Well I went to a scrap yard pulled the connector off and rewired it to mine. Runs fine now. Also check your commection to the computer I replaced my compute and she ran fine no stalling that used to happen when I hit a bump or even closed the truck door.
I have a 2002 ford ranger edge 3.0. Sometimes when i start it the hazards come on and stay on and the truck will stall out and die. And when i push the hazards on just to see what happens it makes a weird noise. Can anyone help me or have any ideas?
I have a1994 Ford ranger 2.3 motor 5 speed, I have replaced plugs, wire's & coil packs. Only half of each coil pack is firing, its skipping has no power, loud exhaust inside cab,strong gas smell. I don't no what else to do. Please help
It's a common theme to see reports of misfires, engines cutting out and multiple parts thrown at cars with no success at resolving the issue, and its not just limited to this model, the Ford Ranger. To actually figure out what is occurring on any one of these the diagnostics all start with the same routine to get a sense of direction and then you have to perform appropriate pinpoint tests to drill down to the cause. One common mistake is in assuming that what ever fixed one persons vehicle issue will be the solution for someone else's. Every one of these has to be treated as it's own event and only when the cause for "this vehicle" is proven is it OK to compare what happened to someone else's.
In just replying to the last questioner, do you have a schematic for the fuel injection and ignition system? If you have no spark to two of the cylinders you would see that the ignition module commands the ground control for the coils, and it does that based on inputs from the crankshaft position sensor and the PCM. The engine does not use both spark plugs all of the time, the left hand coil pack will be shut down at certain times but the right hand coil pack should always be getting its command. You will find there is a common power into the coil pack (red/light green) and then two command wires that go to the module. (tan/orange and tan/white) With the key on, engine off (KOEO) you should be able to see a test light turn on when touching all three connections at the coil. (Remember the module has to turn on and pull that voltage to ground to charge the coil to make a spark.)
Now if that is OK then we will move on by starting the engine and checking the two tan wires again. Each of them should cause the test light to now flash. The light turns off when the ignition module turns the coil circuit on. If one flashes and the other does not, you need to go to the ignition module and recheck for the same activity.
If when you checked for power at all three wires (KOEO) you only saw power on the red/green and one of the two tan wires, then you need to unplug the ignition module and try checking again. If you now see power at all three then the module has failed and it is turning that one coil on all of the time and not turning it off to make a spark. If unplugging the module does not get power back to all three wires then you can do resistance checks to see if the coil primary is open, or if that one tan wire is abraded or pinched to ground between the module and the coil pack.
That's enough for the moment, we are only concentrating on the output side of the ignition module and it would take hours to cover all of the rest of the system and there isn't a real reason to do so. As described above you need to start the investigation prove what works and what does not and then you can change your testing points as appropriate for the problem with only the vehicle that you are working on. If we prove that there are no problems on the output side, and the problem has to be either in the module or on its input side then the steps that have to be taken are very specific and also require advanced multi-meter or oscilloscope skills. The key point is all of the other requests for help in this thread use many of the same tests, but the tests can only be performed when the problem occurs or while it is occurring. The first step on any one of them is what are they losing? Spark? Fuel? Both?
i have a 94 ford ranger used to run good but now for some odd reason if its cold or motor is cool it has hardly any power you let it idle for a while until a certain tempture and it runs great...... what could cause this????? it just started PLEASE HELP////////
boy oh boy, I am overwhelmed with all the response's. I have been a ranger fan for years but sold my last one due to I needed a box of beer and $50 dollars. And, now there is a new/old one sitting out there I am trying to get running for my Daughter and it has this intermittent fault/short which is driving me nuts.
K, when it dies and it will die all I do is get out and bang the fuse box around with the key switch on and vroom its off to the race's. The problem is there are new relays all around so I was thinking it was a connection so I tore into it and cannot find anything that would lead me to think that I need to epoxy something in place so I am thinking it is a ground short that is located elsewhere, I was soo hoping it would be in the fuse box.
So going back to box of beer truck it was giving me fits. Every time I ran across a ruff part in the road it would cut out and boom it was back a running and it finally quit, like for days and then it would run again. Needles to say it was winter and I had no money so here is how I fixed it. I tore into the brain and found #29? was not grounding so I circumvented the wire plug on with a soldered wire. It ran and died. I tried soldering in two fuel relays and then abandoned them to using just one. All the time I was turning on the key I could hear the pump in the tank run and quit, fine but I could never hear the injectors switch on which is why I was into the brain.
So after driving myself completely mad with this insanity chase I inadvertently had my light tester on the hot side of the battery post and grounded out the fuel relay and it all clicked. I deduced that my fuel pump relay was not sending the brain an on pulse and there fore the injectors would not turn on so my fix was to ground out the ground side of the relay straight to the battery ground and that thing never had another problem.
BUT this new bang the fuse box around has got me baffled so I am going to go after the key switch mechanism to see if it has separated. This has happened to me before and I had to drive 35 miles with the steering coulomb skins off while I held this mechanism together.
Well I haven't really added to this thread sept to say with all this electronic gizmos sending and receiving pulses I have found that it is the ground/s that are usually the culprits and that is my 2 ¢
05 Ford ranger 4.o by Watford 2 yrs fuel smelled like straight varnish.cleaned fuel system .new filter ,fuelpump.3 injectors only ohm out to3 or 4 but supposed to b at 15.truck will accept the gas pedal stalls and is loading up with gas should I clean injectors
Comments
I'm still having the issue but living with it. I only drive my truck about 300 miles a month.
It died once in 4 months and I was overly optimistic that things had settled down. I'm back to once about every 10 to 20 miles.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Can't afford a big mechanic bill right now. :sick:
My Ranger is a stick and I can restart it immediately.
This has been doing this since last October. I only drive it about 250 - 300 miiles a month in the City.
It can die 3 times in 10 miles or go 300 miles and only die once.
I keep a very close eye on my mpg and it was always at 20 1/2 to 21 mpg, until this started. I'm now at about 18 1/2. So, I think something is happening other than dying every once and awhile.
202k miles and does great except for this.
I'm not getting rid of this truck and I'm not spending big bucks unless I'm sure I have a fix.
Any more suggestions would be appreciated.
Thx
my 93 ranger has been driving me nuts for nearly 6 months... you name it, its new.. every sensor but TPS which i have but not installed yet..
chased a bad/intermittant ICM for 4 months finally after having the CPS replaced by my local ford dealer was told to replace the ICM even though it tested good, sure enough truck has been running fine for last 2 weeks..
then all of the sudden yesterday it didnt want to start again. had to crank it a number of times and it finally started and was able to drive it home the 14 miles home and right around the corner from my house it quit, coasted to the shoulder waited a minute and it started back up and i made it home..
went back out last night and didnt want to start again, finally it started drove where i had to go shut it off and it started back up and ran fine once again..
has new fuel pump and all relays/fuses in power box were replaced back in february, coil packs, complete tune up
not sure what to do now, inertia switch???? fuel pressure regulator???? ignition switch???
quite frankly im tired of throwing money in to it but i have a bear by the tail so to speak..
I did this for two reasons, the original location is hard to get to and also the ICM stays a lot cooler mounted away from the engine. I am thinking that heat was causing the ICM to intermittently fail. Since I did that, I put on 30,000 miles without a problem. I recently sold my Ranger because of a recent injury made it hard for me to drive a standard. I still see it running around town so I assume it is still running good.
I would guess fuel filter or one of the sensors.
I don't know if there is some sort of cut off valve. In my old T-Bird, had a cut off valve in the back.
Sorry i couldn't be more help.
On my problem: at one year it's still doing the same thing. Need to have someone try the grounding thing. Not much else makes sense.
beating my head against the wall, wife wants new car and i want to use this for a trade in BUT i cant do that to someone... i want it running right before i trade it in....
still would like to know if kopfhunter got to the bottom of his problem as his sounds exactly like mine
It runs and runs and runs. Then I have the problem 5 times in two days.
Going to have my mechanic put it on the computer but we're not optimistic that it will show anything.
Hey, it's only been a year.
If I didn't love this old truck...
Kopfhunter
also noticed that if i try to start it it wont restart UNLESS i turn ignition all the way off and then back to start.. only then will it restart..
starting to think it may be the ignition switch if that is possible
I have a 2002 ford ranger edge 3.0. Sometimes when i start it the hazards come on and stay on and the truck will stall out and die. And when i push the hazards on just to see what happens it makes a weird noise. Can anyone help me or have any ideas?
In just replying to the last questioner, do you have a schematic for the fuel injection and ignition system? If you have no spark to two of the cylinders you would see that the ignition module commands the ground control for the coils, and it does that based on inputs from the crankshaft position sensor and the PCM. The engine does not use both spark plugs all of the time, the left hand coil pack will be shut down at certain times but the right hand coil pack should always be getting its command. You will find there is a common power into the coil pack (red/light green) and then two command wires that go to the module. (tan/orange and tan/white) With the key on, engine off (KOEO) you should be able to see a test light turn on when touching all three connections at the coil. (Remember the module has to turn on and pull that voltage to ground to charge the coil to make a spark.)
Now if that is OK then we will move on by starting the engine and checking the two tan wires again. Each of them should cause the test light to now flash. The light turns off when the ignition module turns the coil circuit on. If one flashes and the other does not, you need to go to the ignition module and recheck for the same activity.
If when you checked for power at all three wires (KOEO) you only saw power on the red/green and one of the two tan wires, then you need to unplug the ignition module and try checking again. If you now see power at all three then the module has failed and it is turning that one coil on all of the time and not turning it off to make a spark. If unplugging the module does not get power back to all three wires then you can do resistance checks to see if the coil primary is open, or if that one tan wire is abraded or pinched to ground between the module and the coil pack.
That's enough for the moment, we are only concentrating on the output side of the ignition module and it would take hours to cover all of the rest of the system and there isn't a real reason to do so. As described above you need to start the investigation prove what works and what does not and then you can change your testing points as appropriate for the problem with only the vehicle that you are working on. If we prove that there are no problems on the output side, and the problem has to be either in the module or on its input side then the steps that have to be taken are very specific and also require advanced multi-meter or oscilloscope skills. The key point is all of the other requests for help in this thread use many of the same tests, but the tests can only be performed when the problem occurs or while it is occurring. The first step on any one of them is what are they losing? Spark? Fuel? Both?
K, when it dies and it will die all I do is get out and bang the fuse box around with the key switch on and vroom its off to the race's. The problem is there are new relays all around so I was thinking it was a connection so I tore into it and cannot find anything that would lead me to think that I need to epoxy something in place so I am thinking it is a ground short that is located elsewhere, I was soo hoping it would be in the fuse box.
So going back to box of beer truck it was giving me fits. Every time I ran across a ruff part in the road it would cut out and boom it was back a running and it finally quit, like for days and then it would run again. Needles to say it was winter and I had no money so here is how I fixed it. I tore into the brain and found #29? was not grounding so I circumvented the wire plug on with a soldered wire. It ran and died. I tried soldering in two fuel relays and then abandoned them to using just one. All the time I was turning on the key I could hear the pump in the tank run and quit, fine but I could never hear the injectors switch on which is why I was into the brain.
So after driving myself completely mad with this insanity chase I inadvertently had my light tester on the hot side of the battery post and grounded out the fuel relay and it all clicked. I deduced that my fuel pump relay was not sending the brain an on pulse and there fore the injectors would not turn on so my fix was to ground out the ground side of the relay straight to the battery ground and that thing never had another problem.
BUT this new bang the fuse box around has got me baffled so I am going to go after the key switch mechanism to see if it has separated. This has happened to me before and I had to drive 35 miles with the steering coulomb skins off while I held this mechanism together.
Well I haven't really added to this thread sept to say with all this electronic gizmos sending and receiving pulses I have found that it is the ground/s that are usually the culprits and that is my 2 ¢