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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems



  • After lots of trail and error I found the cause to be the fuel air motor ( really not a motor but called one )got one for 10 bucks at salavge yard and now runs great .
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Idle air valve?
  • Back to the drawing board .Engine ran great for about 200 miles and now starting the same ole stuff.It seems to be overloading on fuel.You drive it 55 and when you level out and let up on pedal it seems to start missing .If you keep adding fuel it will still go good but if you idle it may just quit .Start right back up but who wants that when Im sure it can be fixed Thanks JIM
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    Sounds like the problem I had. Difference is mine is a 3.0 V6. I'm thinking you have a vacume leak. Run out all the lines and find it if you can. Are you dripping oil and/or water (anti freeze)down the back of the engine? If so you may have a blown intake manifold gasket. Won't idle for crap but runs on the freeway but poor mileage. Will suck air when driving and may drip oil or water when parked.

    1. Clean the Mass Air flow sensor
    2. Replace throttle control sensor $30
    3. clean pvc valve
    4 find and fix vac leak
    5 find vac leak in the intake manifold gasket upper or lower

    Has to be one of these things. Try looking down the back of the engine with a mirror and flashlight for oil leak--listen for hissing vac leak
  • fordman2000fordman2000 Posts: 2
    edited April 2011
    i have a 1995 ford ranger super cab 4x4 , it keeps stalling,it idles a little funny, i put new plugs in same results, it seems to be like choke it self off.when i slow down or turn.but it has power when you drive. have now glue :(
  • rgladuergladue Posts: 2
    Meaning it wont turn over or just clicks?
  • rgladuergladue Posts: 2
    Do you have good spark? If you do its either fuel delivery or an electronic issue. Does your truck have a crank sensor?
  • jgandme2jgandme2 Posts: 6
    It sounds like you have a major vacume leak. PCV valve stuck?
  • I have a '95 Ranger XLT Super Cab V6 4.0L. I just replaced the battery, and the positive cable because it was corroded. So the next morning I went out to start it and nothing. I turn the key, and nothing happens. It doesn't turn over, dash lights don't turn on, and power windows and locks don't work. There's absolutely no power. It baffles me. I REFUSE to take this to a mechanic. I just need a little help. Oh, and both starter and alternator were replace a few years ago.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, to do any electrical checking, you need multimeter and a little knowledge about how to use it.
  • ballenxballenx Posts: 1
    Sometimes when I start my ranger the rpms wont get up to where they should be and then my truck sputters and stalls out... i have to keep revving the engine to try to keep it going and i have no idea why...if anyone knows what could be wrong and could help that would be great....also when i drive there is some squealing noise that idk what that is either
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First wild guesses on each:
    -Failing/weak fuel pump. It's inside the fuel tank. A gauge can be attached to the fuel line under the hood to check the pressure. Low pressure means a weak pump.
    -Belt slipping.

    There are multiple other things that could cause each problem.
  • Hey I know how it is to have that problem. I was having the same thing and it was my spark plug and wires. If I was you I would do that first.
  • under dash board is a censore or something similair push on top of it like you do a lawn mower before you start it and it will start.This is my fix for my ford ranger dying while driving..
  • My security guards all use 05 ford rangers this problem typically happens when the gas tank gets below half a tank the fuel pump begins to weaken out and eventually over heat and fail. it might be pricey to always fill the tank before half but it beats cost repairs of mechanics. btw our trucks are well over 100k so i wouldnt doubt my mechanics cause that does make sense
  • my 2001 ford ranger v6 3.0 liter idles just a little funny sometimes a little high sometimes a little low. when im in nuetral and rev the engine it sounds great but when i put it in gear it sputters and jumps some as i drive. Ive changed plug wires, fuel filter, cleaned the mass flow sensor and im fixing to replace the throttle position sensor. so far nothing has worked. oh yea ive also did away with the catalytic converters and that didnt help. please does anyone know what else i can do?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Maybe a vacumn leak?
  • havent checked yet. thank you ill try to run down the vacuum lines tomorow. someone also suggested coil pack any thoughts?
  • Ive got a 92 ranger that is loading up bad when the check engine lite comes on? the ecm tells the injectors to stay on. I've checked it over and over with a scaner. got nothing, any ideas
  • My 04' Ford Ranger suddenly sputtered then stalled on my way home from work and wouldn't start again, it was like it ran out of gas. So I replaced the fuel filter. It started right up and ran for about 15 minutes then died again and wouldn't start. The next morning it did the same thing started fine, ran for 10-15 minutes then died and wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel line and it had very low pressure so I replaced the fuel filter. Now it won't start at all and I'm not getting a spark from the spark plugs. I've changed the coil pack, reset and then bypassed the fuel pump shut-off switch, checked the ignition switch fuse, the fuel pump relay, starter fuse and relay, and every other applicable fuse/relay. I'm now stumped and do not know what the problem could be.
  • Sounds like you need a new/rebuilt brain box. Take the box in and have it checked out. My guess is that it's dead and thats why you don't get any spark at the plugs.
  • We got my 91 ford ranger about a year ago, and for a few months it has on and off had an issue with sputtering and stalling when we first start it. You will hear the engine working very hard and it will shake the truck and then boom, truck turns off. First time it happened it was right after we had the first full tank of gas in a looong time, had been running it until it died from no gas(we are broke), so we replaced the fuel pump hoping we had just clogged it. It didnt happen for awhile after that but then the last month it started happening again.

    Keep in mind, it will do it once, and then we will restart it, and its fine,like it never happened.

    Well, my fiance was driving it to work this morning on the freeway and it did the same thing twice. only difference, it was while he was already driving. It took him awhile, but he got it to start and got it back home.Had to call into work. This is his work truck so we are really worried about fixing this or he doesnt have a job any more.

    No money to get it diagnosed. Any ideas??
  • Engine will start and run for about 10 -20 minutes, then stalls. I will not re start but if I wait a couple of hours, it will re start without a problem. While engine is running, it runs good with no missing. Have changed the coil packs, plug wires and plugs, ICM, fuel filter, fuel pump(what a pain) fuel pump relay, ignition relay. . Is there a second fuel pump for this engine? Other than the ECU(computer) is there any other parts or sensors that have a history of failing after they heat up. My next step my be to buy a new computer but I hate to spend big bucks if others had this problem and found the fix.
  • rklinerkline Posts: 1
    It has been a while since youve posted this, but if you are still having the problem timming may be your issue.
  • 86 Ranger 2.3 - Gas will not keep engine running.

    Hello fellow ford rangers out there..... we go again. I'm still having issues, but it's intermittent. Last year I got the relays or something wet that prevented the car from starting, then I thought it all dried out, but had to replace a few things.
    1986 Ford Ranger / 2.3 EFI / 140 CID OHC /4-Cyl/5 speed

    So the last time I was here, I was having doggy issues which I thought were fuel related. I'm still having issues, although it appeared to cleared up a bit.

    When I start the engine, it cranks over, I'd give it some gas, it would rev up, then suddenly die, no matter if I pressed down on the gas pedal or not. After two or three times doing this, it would turn over and maintain a steady idle, then off I go.........

    The problem now?
    Well, late today I tried to get it going, and after about 15 times, I gave up. It would not stay idling, it would crank over then die. I did not want to ruin the starter. It seems the gas pedal is worthless after the engine decides to conk out, and no matter how many times I step on the gas pedal, nothing happens.

    It would be so pleasant if I could get close to pinpointing this cause, instead of playing the expensive process of elimination game. I DO realize what a long shot that would be, for someone to just tell me, "Hey, dude, check your ##$@&;&, that's definitely your problem!", but life seems never to be easy.

    Has been replaced within the last few months:
    Fuel filter regulator,
    Inline fuel filter,
    Cap and rotor,
    Lucas fuel injector cleaner,
    ECC computer, and Fuel relay switches, (multi-function relay/connector switch)
    Idle Air Control Valve - Removed and Cleaned.
    Checked all vacuum hoses.

    Has not been replaced:
    Map Sensor,
    EGR Valve and sensor,
    Throttle Position Sensor,
    EVP sensor,
    Spark plugs, (two years ago)
    Plug wires, (two years ago)
    Ignition control module, (replaced about six years, or more)

    So, I can sure use some help from anyone who experienced these symptoms, and what did you do to correct the problem?

    With trying to keep the gas going to turn it over, it does not, so to me, it seems to be more of a fuel problem than electrical, but I'm no mechanic. Thank you for any help! :-)
  • Hello bozo4ford,

    One thing you can check is your fuel shutoff switch, usually located at the top of your carpeting on the passenger side floorboard. Check to see if the switch is bad or if you have a melted wire harness leading to the switch. I have had similar issues ( not exact) and i found a melted wire harness at the base of this switch. $75 at a local junkyard and the problem was fixed. Its worth a look, hope this helps.
  • Thanks!

    I did tap and clicked on the Inertia or Rollover swith on the passenger's floor. This could be anything.

    Well, after a week of painful neck and shoulder pain, (Doc said it was osteoarthritis, that and sleeping on pillow wrong) I'm finally back on computer. Did not have time to do anything with my truck. I'm still in a little pain, but I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of my truck not running. it cranks, but does not turn over.

    Some one told me over the weekend NEVER use fuel injection cleaner in this old 26 year old truck, because he sez, it can muster up all the contaminates and clog places where the fuel could not get to the injectors. it was LUCAS DEEP CLEAN Fuel System cleaner. I added this to a full tank of gas back in February, so this may or may not have anything to do with my problem.

    The mechanic told me he found metal shavings in the inline fuel filter, he told me that the pump might be breaking down after 26 years. So I think I'll have him replace the pump. I am not a mechanic, nor do I have any test gauges, etc., so I am at the ''honest'' mechanics mercy.
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