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Ford Ranger Stalling/Dying Problems

stick0413stick0413 Posts: 2
edited July 2015 in Ford
1999 Ranger XLT 3.0L Automatic 77,000 miles

It started tonight and at first cut off a couple of times then it started happening more frequent while driving. All of the lights and everything stay on. There has been no check engine light, etc.

See also: How to find a good mechanic
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Comments

  • I'm not sure about the 99 ranger but i've been having the same problem with my 2005 Ranger edge 4.0L Automatic 33,000kms. i had it checked out at the dealership and the told me it was the inertia sensor, i guess when it is bumped or jolted it cuts off the fuel. now i figure it had to be a fuel pump problem but i guess i'll have to wait and see when i pick the truck up tomorrow.
  • we have a 2000 ranger 4x4. 4.0 engine, auto with o/d. when starting up a grade, truck will hestiate . have had trans and engine checked. locals say"good luck". any ideas?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter?
  • twice in the last six months
  • tinydog2tinydog2 Posts: 1
    have read thru posts, but can't make sense out of most of them, so here goes and thanks in advance for any help.
    3 litre V6 5speed manual. Have changed fuel pump because CTC mechanic said fuel pressure was too low, nothing changed. Then they said there was a possible NO SPARK situation or maybe even the computer was faulty.So figuring these guys were going to try leading me around by the nose, i pulled truck out of shop.
    At home i tried starting it myself by spraying Quick-start into intake. truck will run til i stop spraying. there is fuel at fuel rail (don't now name but looks like tire valve) .
    also did change coil pak just to be sure , also new battery.
    HAS ALWAYS TURNED OVER QUITE WELL BUT STILL WILL NOT RUN. EXCEPT WHILE SPRAYING QUICK-START INTO INTAKE.
    THANX AGAIN FOR HELP
    FOR THOSE WHO CARE CTC IS PROBABLY IN COMPARISON TO AUTOZONE BUT IS IN CANADA - NATION WIDE AND READY TO RIP YOU OFF!!
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    The fact that it runs as long as you spray the Quick-Start shows the engine is not getting fuel. Either the computer is not firing the injectors or something is keeping the pressure in the rail way too low. I would go back to the low or no fuel pressure as the first thing to check.
  • jfchainjfchain Posts: 1
    Engine misses when accellerating at 70 mph + above , becoming more frequent, fuel filter maybe?
  • cybrjgrcybrjgr Posts: 1
    1985 Ranger V6, 2brl carb, manual trans. has a chronic problem of stalling during slow down at turns and intersections. It will start right back up. It runs great except for the stalling and it burns a little oil. I recall my dad having similar problems years ago but he has passed away so I can't go to him for help like I use to. The truck has new belts, plugs, rotor, cap, plug/IGN wires, fuel filter, air filter, oil, oil filter, thermostat, radiator, fan, the engine is timed, the cooling system is flushed, I cleaned the carb out with carb cleaner and I ran ChemTool fuel additive through a full tank of high octane fuel.
    Any ideas will be helpful because I am at the end of my knowledge. Thank you.
  • edhughesedhughes Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Ranger. I brought it new in Feb of 2005. Three times it has stalled on me. The first time it was after I had parked it nose down on a hill, it started, but died soon after. Then an hour later it started up and no problems...at least not until a week later. At that time it did it after coming out of a parking garage. This time it was towed to the ford dealership (where by the way it started just fine the next day) and after looking through everything and testing all aspects. They shrugged their shoulders and replaced the fuel line. This was 7000 miles ago (just before my 30k checkup). This Sunday it stalled again. After sitting on a hill, nose down, and about four miles from where I started it. While waiting at an intersection. Once again it was towed, started the next day and the repair shop (not a ford dealership) couldn't find the problem. So I drove it home. It is now three days later and no problems? I was told it might be the inertia sensor. But I didn't hit any bumps. And while it was sitting I had used the AC. My repair man and I are puzzled! I don't want it stalling in a dangerous area. Somebody please help me figure this one out. :sick:
  • calliamcalliam Posts: 3
    My 1998 Ford Ranger is in the shop again! It stalls and now it won't start. We have had work done on it by the Ford Dealer, couldn'f fix it, the local mechanic has it and he seems to think the gas is too rich (?). Wants to replace the distributor.

    Does anyone know anything about this? Sound familiar?
  • stick0413stick0413 Posts: 2
    With the original problem in this thread it turned out to be the ECM. Have since traded the Ranger in for a Toyota Tundra (08 with the 5.7) and am very happy with it with no problems at all.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A 98 has a distributor?
  • calliamcalliam Posts: 3
    Apparently some models of the 1998 series do have distributors. When the Ford Dealers (2) were through with working on it they couldn't tell us what the problem was, maybe it was this, maybe it was that, but after over $2,400 worth of work we gave up on Ford. Took it to a little local mechanic who thought he could fix it, but no luck. Now it is with another mechanic who is talking about $800 to replace the distributor, but again no guarnatees. I am ready to chuck the darn thing or just put it on the property and grow flowers in the bed of the truck!!!!!!!
  • mgr1mgr1 Posts: 1
    Having read the above, here's my 2 cents worth.... mabey someone can make something out of it: I have a 1989 Ranger with 2.3L fuel injected engine (5s manual) and this problem has cropped up only in the past year. It starts fine and runs fine but occassionally either when cruising for a few miles at 35 mph or after slowing down for a turn and giving it the gas again, the engine will hiccup or cutout (stall) for anywhere from a second or two to nearly a minute before I can start it again. No "check engine" light. I've had the truck checked and the EGR valve assembly was replaced as well as the throttle body overhauled.

    I'll be taking it back into the shop shortly but after reading the manual and the above threads I'm thinking that the problem is definitely fuel related. Mabey the inertia switch but I'm more inclined to believe the fuel filter or fuel pressure regulator or one of the two fuel pumps (there are two: a high pressure and a low pressure pump). Unfortunately, I don't have the equipment to check this stuff....... I'll keep you guys posted. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • calliamcalliam Posts: 3
    Don't know about the 89's however on our 98 we have had the fuel system completely overhauled, new filter, new pump etc. Still stalls and will start when it feels good and ready. Sometimes right away sometimes a week or so later.

    I'm giving up, donating it to a charitable org. and taking it off on my taxes for this year.

    Better luck with yours.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The fuel pump relay? These can go bad, or their connectors get corrision and make bad connection. These are usually in the fuse box under the hood, or on the side of it. Be worthwhile to buy a new one for a few dollars and pull the old one when it is stalled and put the new on in and see if it starts.
  • pistolnoonpistolnoon Posts: 1
    Was driving my 93/94 Ford Ranger P/U Standard Transmission today and it died suddenlly on the highway, the highway was very noisy and could not troubleshoot, so I added gas and tried to start it but it would not run, the starter runs OK, then added fuel to the intake manifold to see if it world start with help but would not. The fuel pump kicks in ok and you can hear it running so I checked for spark and their is not spark. Got abit of a shock to my hand from the spark plug wire after trying to check the sparkplugs but they will not spark.

    Had it towed home to work on it myself because I cannot afford to fix it in a garage. So I took my electronic tester and checked the fuse panel and all the fuses are ok, checked the diode in the fuse panel and it is OK,then went on to the EEC relay and it is Ok, and even replaced it with new one, and checked the fuel injection relay and it is Ok.

    So that must make the crankshaft positon sensor?And the coil pack?Is their an ignition control module?Where would it be located?
    Any help appreciated.

    THankyou
  • bruce75bruce75 Posts: 1
    My 3.0 Engine runs fine when the weather is day, but on rainy days it runs really rough. Maybe someone can help me. I just purchase the truck recently from an out of town party, so am unaware of the recent maintenance.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I would try new wires and plugs first.
  • anginohioanginohio Posts: 2
    Just thought I would put this here for anyone who might find it useful. I have a 2006 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder w/25500 miles, the other day I was driving down the highway and it just shut off, no warning lights just died and would not restart. It would turn over and die instantly. I recalled a few months ago while a friend was driving it, it also stalled and restarted after about 5 mins while sitting at a light. I thought nothing of it really because it had not happened to me. Long story short, $550.00 dollars later, minus the$100.00 tow it was the mass air flow sensor. Of course my warranty expired the month before and I was also told it was caused by a cheap air filter being used at a oil change place, replaced at 18,000 miles. I have the filter and it looks fine to me, but I am not car expert of any means. So maybe my pain in my wallet might help someone else save a few hundred bucks. It looks like it would have been easy enough for me to change but I had no idea where to start. :mad:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Thats a new one, never heard that before. I've heard that people that use the after market oilable filters may kill the MAS because oil from the filter will coat it. But never heard of a filter so bad that it killed one.

    Better possibility is that messing with the filter left a connection open between the air filter and the MAS, letting air and dust in.

    And, I did not know a bad MAS would suddenly totally kill a motor. I can see making it run badly, and giving bad milage, but kill a motor? Maybe a bad MAS where the little wire/s inside totally broke would shut a car down. This would be a defective MAS, not a filter problem coating the wire with dust.

    The symptoms you describe sound more like a Crank Position Sensor failure. These will kill a car instantly. And if it is an intermident failure, the car will restart, until the failure becomes complete.

    Overall, sounds like it could be a BS from a service writer. Look at your receipt, see if they charged for a MAS or Crank Sensor. I do hope that whatever they did keeps you up and running.
  • anginohioanginohio Posts: 2
    they replaced the MAS and I have the old one that was taken out and they replaced the air filter which I also have. The air filter does not look like its in bad shape either. I took it to the dealer where I bought the car and that is what was done. So far so good.
  • rfelixrfelix Posts: 1
    I've had my Ranger for over two years now, and have not had a lick of trouble. Recently, the Ranger started running like chitty-chitty-bang-bang, I suspected water in the fuel and added dry gas with no luck.
    The Ranger acts like it isn't getting fuel and I have to keep the engine revved up to keep it from stalling. Once I get it rolling, it still bucks and jumps occasionally. I'm living on a very tight fixed income so I can't just drive it to a garage and have it diagnosed with the computer error codes.
    Is changing the fuel filter or 02 sensor worth a try, or should I wait until I can have a computer put on it?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    If the Check Engine Light isn't on, 'putting it on a computer' may not tell you anything. If it has set a 'soft' code that has reset itself, it might be helpful if the code is still in history. But if a sensor is seeing a critical problem, it will have the Check Engine light turned on.

    A fuel filter replacement might help.

    At 7 years old, you might also need new plug wires and/or plugs.

    At about this age, on my 94 I started to hear ignition noise over the radio, even the FM radio. It only had about 50,000 miles, but it was about 7 or so years old. The truck still ran fine, but when you hear ignition noise on the radio, you have to know the wires are breaking down. A new set of wires and plugs stopped the noise.
  • ditto on the plugs and wires. i have an 01 that had them replaced when I bought the truck used at 24,000. It now has 98,000 and started missing occasionally after rough idling for about a year. decided to check a plug and see how it looked and the wire fell apart as I removed it and the plug was completely shot. I checked the gap (supposed to ..052-.056 or something) and it was almost at .145 and looked terrible. I blame the crap gas we have around here.

    after a new set of plugs and wires she runs great again and gas mileage jumped from 15 mpg up to 19 mpg overnight.
  • just replaced fuel pump and filter... now, above 35 miles per hour or on incline truck losses power but does not stall. any suggestions ?
  • haulthault Columbus OhioPosts: 130
    ford had a class action lawsuit in california. there is an electronic part near the distributor on many ford vehicles from at least the 1980's through around 2000. when it gets overheated the circuit shorts and causes the engine to die. After it cools down the circuit is complete and vehicle runs again. The part is inexpensive.
  • I have a 1995 Ford Ranger XLT 4 cylinder stander w/325,000 miles truck loose power when the outside temperature reach 100 degrees, then it start to stalled. I have done a tune-up and replace fuelpump and fuel filter,Air filer and Air mass censer. the problem corrects itself in the morning when is cool then it runs normal.

    only when is hot outside is when truck stalled and rough idle
    any suggestions.. :cry:
    thanks
    felix
  • you may have carbon build up I have sea form motor treatment and it help. hope this helps

    felix
  • driving down the road at any speed the truck will just die out but it does not have any problem of starting up and keeping on going tried replacing the coil pack and that didnt do it, i need help have afeeling im gonna spend more money than is needed...
  • I had a 94 Ranger, starting missing bad,went to AutoZone,I put on a new
    Mas Airflow Sensor.Runs great now,NO miss!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, on Cad Northstar, this symptom many times means the Crank Position Sensor is bad.
  • I have a 94 ranger xlt 2.3 and when i get up and start it cold it starts up fine but as soon as i drive it and if i stall the vehicle will not start it takes about 2-3 min before starting it will go but not turnover after getting it to start then none of my signals work or my hazard light work. Then later on the signals will work. Any ideals as why it doesnt start right up after stall and why my signaland hazard lights stop working temporarly.
  • I have a 99 Ranger that stalls when hot. Hault says that a inexpensive part near the distributor is the culprit. The problem is My car does not have a distributor. Can someone help? Pulidore
  • i have a 94 ranger 3.0 has 160xxx miles. ive owned it since 97 with only 40xxx miles. never had any trouble out of it. but last month i was driving home and i stopped to wait to turn and it died on me and wouldnt start back. the next mourning i went out and started right up, so i took it down the road and back and when i got home i shut it off and it wouldnt start back unless i let it sit for bout 5 hours, after that happend ive replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, coil, cap, and rotor button, mas, its getting spark and its getting fuel, ive checked all fusses and relays under the hood and under dash. what else can i do
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Fuel pump relay goes bad, making intermittent contact. Switch the relays around, they are the same, or buy a new one for the fuel pump. These relays are a know problem on Rangers.

    Fuel pump itself is going bad and dropping fuel pressure.

    There is a 'rollover' fuel cutoff sensor which may be going bad. Its under the edge of the carpet on the right side (passenger) of the 'tunnel'. It's also got a reset button on top of it. Check connections here.

    There is a crank position sensor. If it goes bad, the truck stops dead. This is a problem on certain years of Cadillacs - when it fails, it fails so fast the car will not set error code, but it will crank and run later.

    Just a few wild guesses......
  • I am so sorry to hear that everyone has such problems with thier Rangers.I own a 97 ranger which i bought used in 98.It currently has 268358 miles on it and running just fine.I have studied auto mechanics since i was about 7 i do all my own repair work and have since we bought the truck.I haven't had to do anything major to it since i've owned it,basic maintence,oil change,plugs and wires,belts and hoses and only once right after it hit 100000 miles i had to replace the timing belt.All in all i really love my truck.
  • i have a 1993 ranger and a 2006 i have had no trouble out of my 1993 outside of basic maintenance and i have owned it for 8 years :) on the other hand my 2006 i have had for 6 months and my engine stalled :mad: on me the other day on the way to work going about 50 mph it wouldent start i had to get it towed home and let it set for a few days and it started no problem im going to replace the fuel pump relay and i will keep everyone updated if this solves the problem
  • Hi fellow rangers, :)

    [ 1986 Ford Ranger/2.3L gas/5 speed OD/128,745 Miles/ California ]

    Ok, This is my "unlucky every other year" SMOG TEST ONLY where I diligently replace my air filter,spark plugs, cap and rotor, (fuel cap, if needed).

    The night before doing these changes, I drove to the auto wash stall where I waited for my engine to cool down before spraying Gunk Engine Brite, to clean, to make my work a little more enjoyable, and yes, I did cover the distributor coil, distributor cap, and any other components I did not want to get wet. I was very careful not to use extreme pressure around the aluminum, bendable manifold tubing, which could easily break and water would get down into the engine. I've done the same thing every other year since this SMOG TEST ONLY came into effect without any problems before. (California)

    The day after, I took a drive to the store about a mile away and noticed an extreme stalling where I had to keep gas revved up so it wouldn't stall. I could come to a light signal, and without the gas to the pedal, it would just die. I was really afraid I’d get stuck there.

    I don't remember doing anything out of the ordinary this time, except TWO THINGS, (1) the plugs I bought were Autolite Platinum (AP5145) and were supposed to be pre-gapped to .44, and I checked only one, which was fine. and (2) A few days earlier I bought a 12oz. can of OCTANE BOOST gas additive I added to half a gas tank. I know it's bad to use these additives ,but on occasion, I usually go with a fuel injector additive. I am the original owner of this truck, and have been told it's only worth $500.00, so what can I lose, but thinking about it now, these 4-banger trucks don't do good with the higher octane, that's why the REGULAR gas is better than the PREMIUM, Ummmmm....could this be one of the problems? Maybe I should filler up right away to "water down" that octane booster...don't know what the heck I was thinking????? :eyes:
    A few years ago, I did replace my fuel relay switch, and maybe a fuel sensor, but believe me, this truck was running much better before I did all this replacement of the Cap, Rotor, and plugs. The (expensive) spark plug wires I bought two years ago and they looked fine inside each plug wire.

    So for the life of me, I don't know where to look, because this could turn out to be a costly and timely process of elimination. Any ideas?

    So I guess I should always check my spark gap, regardless of what I buy. How long should the Fuel sensor or relay last? I will go check my vacuum lines and firing order on the dist. cap.

    Sorry about the winded reply, I'll post back after I do these tasks. Do you think I have to remove the plugs again and recheck the gaps? Thanks again!

    I called the auto parts store and they told me those plugs and Cap/Rotor are the correct application..BUT he told me to pull the plugs and check to see if the tips are either real black or white, fouled out because of the concentrated octane booster in a half of tank of gas.
    ALSO, Instead of autolite (AP5145) Platinum plugs, I should have gone with Motorcraft, not autolite.

    Any would be much appreciated. Thank you! Have a great day! :thumb:

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    bozo4ford
    Post subject: Re: 1986 Ranger 2.3L Pre smog test R&R Plugs, now stalling out??
    PostPosted: Mon Feb 08, 2010 1:48 pm
    Online
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    Joined: Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:25 am
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    Truck: 1986 Ford Ranger
    Update Monday FEB. 8th, 1:00PM PST -

    I pulled each of the autolite plugs and did not notice any white or black carbon, checked the gap,1,2,and 4th plug was gapped to .44, but the #3 plug was more than .44. A few years back I also replaced my distributor module with a FORD part.

    I looked at the dist. coil plug wire and noticed some green oxidation on the coil tip, got some sandpaper, rolled it up, and stuck it inside the coil plug to clean the terminal inside, blew it out with air...that was a few days ago, and now it was more oxidation, could that mean I should try to replace just the Dist coil plug wire? I certainly don't want to buy all new plug wires.

    There is a module that is on a metal slider between the air filter assembly and the truck body with a Black base with a white top connector w/4 wires ( 2 red,1 yellow,and one black) coming from a harness,and into that connector,(Part Number #E98b-2C013...I think) which the wires going into this piece looks pretty corrosive,and the locking connector with the (I think) fuel relay looks fine. is there anyway to get just the harness side, clip the 4 wires and replace this assembly piece" I took a picture,but no way to post the pic here.

    In the same area, between the air filter assembly and the side of the truck next to a rectangular part # E7EF9F479-A2A, which I think is the Sensor Assembly for the manifold Absolute pressure module) is another one of these boxes with a Blue-ish green base and a black top with 1Black,3 yellow, and 1 red wire. There are no numbers on this.

    So I'm tooling around looking for what might be a problem causing all this stalling and rough idling....I'll check in periodically. Thanks!
  • Hiya –
    Sunday 2- 14-2010

    The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
    towers is what I have now.

    TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
    TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
    BOTTOM RIGHT #1
    BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.

    It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
    I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.

    My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.

    I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
    I thought this truck had two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
    Compartment. I called pep Boys and Kragen and both told me there is only one, in the Rail, but maybe I will need to go to a mechanic,because the Chilton book sounds involved for just the lay person.

    1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
    EFI
    4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
    Mileage – 151,4672
  • I'm glad it passed CA SMOG!!!!

    I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds after I start the truck. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
    Hopefully, the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
    Thankfully, it kept running yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again.

    That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?

    For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.

    IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >

    FORD DEALER - $103.04,
    THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
    & AUTOZONE - $60.00

    So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass)
  • Ok. Since the smog passed, it’s doubtful the timing was bad or incorrect. My problem with the rough idling is still with me.

    I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.

    When I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better, and when I run it on the freeway, it runs like nobody's "bidniz".

    I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?

    1986 Ranger / 140 CID/ 2.3 EFI gas/ 4 Cyl. 5-speed / 151,473 Miles
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps.
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    If this works you will have saved alot of $ & trouble. I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • fordgirl77fordgirl77 Posts: 15
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger. It may be the fuel pump relay. Sometimes mine won't start especially after i have driven it a while & it warms up, but it runs fine when it is cold. When it warms up it starts to idle rough, stalls, & dies. I'm not sure what it is but i tried this: My ac don't work so I changed the fuel pump relay with the ac relay & it started right up. The relays are under the hood on the driver side. The fuel pump relay is good & it just gets hot & quits. But I switched the ac relay & fuel pump relay out every time it does it. And there is nothing wrong with either of them. Just a Ford malfunction. In my opinion they should have had a recall on this problem. I figured it out on my own the first time it did it. The previous owner replaced the coil packs, plugs, wires, a total tune up & it didn't fix it. So every time mine does this I just switch the relays around, & it works fine. A mechanic just wants money so I work on my own truck. Let me know if this helps
  • mustang6518mustang6518 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i have a 93 ford ranger 2.3 with a 5 speed manaul trany it doen't seem to have any power i know it's a little 4 cylinder but still it should pull hills more better the check engine lights was coming on and staying on after a few miles i hooked it up to a computer and could not find any stored codes all i found was that the 02 senors said it was runnig rich after that the check engine light started going off and on and then stoped coming on completly but no change in performance the check engine light has recently started coming back on i have also noticed that it sounds like the feul pump goes off and on wile it is parked and swiched off any idears
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