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Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts)

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Comments

  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    Does anyone here have any experience with this thing?
  • qwallsqwalls Posts: 406
    There is a difference in car shampoos. Meguiars, Mothers, Zaino, Eagle One, etc.

    So what's your favorite? Just curious.

    Q
  • marksermarkser Posts: 16
    Yes, I do.....Got one as a birthday present and use it on my 06 Vista Blue Mustang GT. I love it! It is nice to have everything contained in one package. The best part is the filter that is used for the auto dry system. You completely spray down the car, after having washed it, and you can literally watch the water just run off in sheets. Once dry, there are virtually no water spots on the car.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    I'll try some else....
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I use Turtle Wax or Kit car wash, whatever is cheapest. You want to have lots of bubbles to hold the dirt suspended away from your paint so you can rinse it away easier.

    I believe that those small spots on your window/car has to do with soap residue being left behind after rinsing. It won't take much soap residue to float to the top of the water drops and when the water evaporates, the soap spot is all that's left.

    I would try using a clay bar to get the dirt off of your white car before using a cleaner type polish. Whatever wax you use, dirt will stick to the paint over time and a clay bar will remove the dirt so you don't end up waxing/polishing the dirt back into your paint.

    I received a Mr Clean/autodry system as a present last year and didn't care for it. I didn't think that the soap spraying out of the Mr. Clean sprayer had enough bubbles to carry the dirt safely away from the paint. Switching the control back and forth from spray to soap to rinse was a pain. Drying my vehicles is very easy since I use SpeedBead the water mostly runs off so drying is very quickly done.
  • bretfrazbretfraz Posts: 2,021
    Zaino Z-6 is my favorite shampoo. It does it all for me.

    For a good store bought shampoo, Meguiars NXT is an excellent choice. Mothers Calif Gold shampoo is very mild and a good choice for those who use carnauba wax on their cars.
  • lmacmillmacmil Posts: 1,758
    It did not work on my black car. Left lots of water spots. Could have been my technique but in any case, it did not do as advertised. I returned it.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    ...works very well for me. I'm also not crazy about the soap as it doesn't suds as much as I like. I use Turtle Wax Zip Wax in a bucket with a wash mit along with the Mr. Clean stuff. The best part about the Mr. Clean system is the filter, as this is what allows a spot-free finish by filtering out the impurities in the water that cause water spotting.

    Also, I'd like to know if anyone has used the new polish by Turtle Wax called Ice. If so, how do you like it? This topic has gotten almost as bad with the S100 posts as others have in the past with the Zaino posts.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    I found the turtle zip wax left a sticky film that tends to collect dust quicker than the other Malco wash I have. The cars stay cleaner longer with the other car wash.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    RE: spots on new blue Rav...

    Well, I looked carefully at my white Camry and sure enough, at an angle, I saw the water drop spots too. I went out and bought some Simonize 500 car wash (its all I could get at the time) I rewashed both cars and let them dry over night. SPOTS AGAIN the next morning; again hard to notice on the white car...easy to see on the blue. I guess the solution is to dry the car after you wash it....unless that Mr. Clean thing works!

    As a test I did S100 over the Nufinish on half my white 2002 Camry. We'll see how it compares to the other half that has been NU Finished.

    As far as the dirt in my painton my 02 white Camry..Opinion appears to be that Nu Finish is abrasive...maybe over the dozen or so waxings in 4 years it removed enough clearcoat to let dirt that won't wash off in...what do you think? Personally I'd think the Mequiar's cleaner wax is more abrasive since it gets out the dirt the Nu Finish would not...would that be correct? Finally, claying has been reccomended to clean up my paint. Wouldn't this be the most abrasive of all? If not, is it hard to do...exactly what is clay and how do you use it?
  • 94hawkskin94hawkskin Posts: 116
    I agree that the S100 posts have gotten some cult like following, but in my short time waxing cars I haven't found anything better for MY car as each car and paint will react differently.

    I just re-waxed last night after a three month interval between waxing and the car is even shinier this time. I got it all over my trim and it didn't leave any stains. I love that feature as I am usually sloppy when it comes to anything.

    Also, I haven't noticed any spots on my car after I wash it, but I do hand dry the car immediatly.

    My friend uses the Mr. Clean system and loves it, says he doesn't have to even touch the car when he is done washing as the car dries itself. How much do one of those systems cost?
  • I use Meguiar's gold class wash and shampoo. I think the stuff is great. I haven't ventured into Zaino territory yet, but I've used several products (Mother's, turtle wax), and this product blows em away. It's cheap, too: 8 bucks gets you a gallon taht lasts well over a year.

    I love s100. It's inexpensive and a dream to put on. Plus, it gives the car an incredible look.

    I use liquid glass before I apply the S100, however. I put on two coats of that and while it is a chore, it provides excellent protection. for example: driving through the country my car gets peppered with love bugs. This happened RIGHT AFTER I detailed my car. FUN.

    However, it rained the next day and I kid you not, 90 percent of hte bugs came off! I was amazed and dragged my gf out to see. She really didn't care, however, and I had nobody with which to share my joy.
  • I drive a manual and after only six months or so the carpet mat is getting rather worn. I bought a small black plastic one to place where my foot hits the clutch and glass but that doesn't seem to help.

    Any advice, short of taking the mat out of the car and saving it for when I eventually sell it? Since I have the mat, I'd like to use it, but if that's not an option I can always buy a large cheap plastic one. thanks.

    Also, the wheel is wrapped with leather. I use an eagle 1 product on that, as well as vinylex for the interior. Anything better out there to combat the hot florida sun?

    One more thing: do those protective things that are placed behind the windshield actually protect the interior, or are they just a gimmick?

    Thanks,
    Charley
  • I forgot to add a few things...

    When I was using Meguiar's Gold wax, pollen would settle on my vehicle like nobody's business. It looked horrible only one or two days after application. It wasn't easy to apply the stuff, either.

    With the S100, that is really no longer an issue. It repels the pollen very well, and in this environment, the stuff is everywhere (my allergies NEVER let me forget it...).
  • 94hawkskin94hawkskin Posts: 116
    I had the same problem with Meguiar's Gold Class wax. When I used it the dust the next day was all over the car and it was a lot of work to take off and it stained the trim. S100 fixed all those problems.

    Try Aerospace 303 protectant for all of your interior. It works great on leather and vinyl and it is like sunblock for your interior. I have used it for about 5 months now and it works great without leaving that oily look. It can be had for about $11 at your local Ace hardware store.
  • 94hawkskin,

    Thanks for the advice! I'm going to buy the stuff today and use it.

    Anybody else besides Ace have the stuff? I'm not sure if I saw it at pep boys and i'm almost positive it's not at advance auto parts...i HATE that joint anyway.
  • 94hawkskin94hawkskin Posts: 116
    Ace hardware is the only place I have seen it at. You can do a 303 search in this discussion to hear other comments on the product.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    Try:

    wheretobuy303.com

    I thought West Marine had it.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    so, what is claying, is it hard to do and is it more abrasive than NuFinish / Meguirs Cleaner Wax.

    PS: I noticed that after using the CLeaner Wax , a lot of polen was attracted to my car too....hopefully it will not be as bad with the S100.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I don't use NuFinish/Meguirs Cleaner Wax or stuff like that, but I do use a clay bar. I bought "Clay Magic" from Wal-Mart for around 10 bucks. You just spray the lubricant that comes with the clay and lightly move the clay bar over the paint, circular motion. Do a small area about 2 sq. ft. at a time then wipe the area with a clean cloth or rewash your car. The clay bar will glide over the paint removing and holding on to the dirt. You will have to fold the clay bar (dirty) side into itself to keep getting a clean side. Very easy to do.

    I don't understand why what's so great about a wax you have to use multi-coats of it or use something else first and apply something on top of something else to achieve protection. Seems like lots of extra work. A great wax will stand alone.
  • You're right: a good wax will give good protection.

    However, it will only last about three or four weeks in the 95 degree sun.

    By applying the two coats of sealant (liquid glass is not a wax, it is a sealant) and then the wax, I maximize the protection, further ensuring clear coat health and extending the times between full applications.

    I don't like working needlessly. If I was able to garage my car at all times then I would spend less time on protectants. The reality is that I am unable to get garaged parking at work and I also don't have a garage at my apartment.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    BUT...is the clay abrasive...is it removing clearcoat....would you want to use it on a newer vehicle?
  • Clay isn't abrasive if you use the proper amount of lubricant.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    for the first time after reading about it here. It's not abrasive. It is easier than using a cleaner/wax or wax on the same paint. The detailing spray which is really a polish makes it slick. It's like the clay picks up the rough particles as you rub over the surface.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    No, a clay bar is not abrasive. My new van has something on the hood from the factory to dealer to me. After waxing my car the paint on the hood didn't feel smooth and the wax removal cloth would drag sligtly. Used the clay bar and hood was smooth as glass.

    You won't harm your new car, just make sure you wash it first and don't put much pressure on the clay bar. Spray the paint with the lube provided, lightly move the clay bar over the paint then remove/wash off the residue.. If you drop the clay bar on the ground you will have to throw it away, don't take a chance by using it again because it might have pick up dirt/small stones from the ground that will scratch your paint.

    Your new car finish will feel smoother after you clay it. Try a section and feel the clayed section to the old finish.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 24,271
    >Your new car finish will feel smoother after you clay it. Try a section and feel the clayed section to the old finish.

    Amen. Try it. It's worth the $10-12. I bought Clay Magic. Glad to see someone said it's at Walmart; I can't find it at the local auto box stores.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    Glad that works for you. I use SpeedBead and my paint is protected 3 months later. Again, different things for different people.
  • where do you reside?
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I am from the Cleveland Ohio area. We have a lot of road salt in the winter, live in the snow belt, hot weather in July and August. We are in the 90's today. We also get acid rain from the power plant that is about 10 miles away.

    Where are you from?
  • riposteriposte Posts: 160
    This stuff is shiney, and indestructable, and easy to apply/wipe off. It's all I use:

    Collinite Insulator Wax link
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    I finished S100ing the Camry today. It is shinnier but some areas are still dull. The Camry is out all day; no garage. Perhaps the paint on my year is not as weatherproof as other cars I've had. Some areas are mirror - like. Some are shiny up close but dull from a distance. Some look as though I waxed in a haze. Some areas are very shiny but splotchy. I'll try the clay but do you think it will help with what I just described. I'd say 70% of the car looks fine. It is very smooth too now that is is waxed. I have bought so much stuff lately I could have had the car detailed by a professional! Let me also be clear about the dirt in the paint. Its not like a bug or tar or anything. It actually looks like small secions of splotchy dirt in the paint. You rub it vigorously with your finger and it does not go away. Imagine those streaks you get under the side view mirrors running down the side of the car; yet now being able to get them out without cleaner wax. I assume the clay will remove it..? If you guys think Clay is the answer...what the hell I'll try it. I saw the clay magic as well as some other brand at R&S auto...does it matter what brand...how long does the clay last?

    Thanks all.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Late to post this but I've been out of town... I just waxed my Pathfinder a couple of weeks ago & clayed for the first time. I've read how great they are on here for years but never tried one. I have to say, I am absolutely amazed. I had things coming off that I've been unable to remove for years. I had tiny dots of paint overspray (still don't know where from) that have been there for over a year because I didn't know how to remove it. I was actually considering a q-tip with paint thinner because a mechanic told me to... yikes. With the clay bar they came off no problem. Keep in mind this is hardened, dried paint that's been there over a year. The clay bar laughed at the bugs & other crap on the front end that doesn't come off with any washing or bug & tar remover. Then I decided to try it on some light scratches... gone in no time. I used Clay Magic & didn't do every inch but just clayed spots with visible contaminates. In case anyone is wondering. I washed with Dawn, clayed, used Race Glaze, and Mothers Back to Black on the trim. Race Glaze is a wax you never hear about & is hard to find but I swear by it since I started using it a few years ago. It is very very easy to remove... even if left on too long and performs very well. Most importantly to me, it lasts about 6 months in between applications... even with harsh winter salt applications. I'm sure S100 looks better & it does suck trying to keep Race Glaze off of black trim (yup, it stains). But I, like some other people on here, have better things to do than wax my car or spend a day on multiple applications of different products. I HATE... & I do mean HATE going through the process every 6 months... so I think that's my limit. But, to each his own. Anybody know of a better product for black trim? Back to Black works & covers the wax on the black trim... but only for a month or two. Any way to remove the wax or a product that lasts longer? On the interior I've used the same products for a long time & love them. I clean all the plastic first with Spray-Nine. Then I use Vinylex on all of the plastic. Coincidentally, I used the quick-wipes for the first time and they are way way easier than the old spray the rag method. And I think I only used about 10 wipes for the whole car. I use Plexus plastic cleaner on the gauge cover but Meguiars products for this work very well also. I use Lexol leather cleaner & conditioner on the seats, steering wheel, & other leather parts. I use Stoner Invisible Glass on the windows. As far as maintaining the car I've used Turtle Wax Zip Wax Self-Drying to wash the car & love it. It really does allow the water to sheet off, particularly if you use a hose without the nozzle to rinse, and the little bit of water that's left I dry with an Absorber. As for tires, Meguiar's Gold Class Endurance High Gloss tire gel really does "last weeks, not days" even through rain... & with NO overspray. It's been my experience that Meguiar's may not always be the best product but they don't make any bad products. So if you're at the store & unsure of what to buy Meguiar's is a safe bet. California Dusters also work well for removing dust & pollen on the outside & interior quickly. Just my two cents...
  • I live in the southern part of Tampa here in Florida. During the winter, it's not so big a deal....before the daily July rains, it is blistering hot with the love bug problem to boot. I've seen two different waxes, both Meguair's and S100, dissolve in less than a month; particularly on the hood, roof, and trunk. There's also lots of tree sap and other garbage (i don't even know what some of the stuff is) that settles onto the car. Plus: I HATE birds and their droppings. I find chickens and turkeys quite tasty, however. ;)

    That's why I put two coats of the liquid glass on. On red colors it is absolutely mesmorizing (my gf's car is red, mine is 'phantom grey'), but even more importantly to me, bugs easily wash right off once that stuff is on.

    Perhaps Speed Bead is a better product. I'll give it a try in the next month or so.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    Assuming my clay-ing goes well....

    If I understand, the liquid glass is a sealant. You can them wax over it with the S100. This should provide a durable finish for a while. Now must I dawn the car before I apply the liquid glass? At this point most of my car should have several layers of NUFinish/wax on it. I plan to clay a few areas and reapply. Can I just go over the car with the liquid glass then S100 one last time?
  • Proper claying is a cinch. Just keep the car well-lubricated and rub lightly till all you feel is smoothness and no crunching.

    Liquid Glass is a sealant. One of the reasons I like it is because it calls for 'baking' in the sun while applying. That makes it really easy here in Florida.

    To be fair, you don't have to seal the car with Liquid Glass and THEN put the wax on it. I just do it for extra protection and it causes the sealant to last longer...I'd rather wax once a month to preserve the sealant then re-seal every other month!!

    Yes, you should dawn the car before applying the sealant because you want to make sure all previouis waxes adn sealants are gone before applying a new coat.

    Applying the liquid glass is a chore, trust me. The s100 does a good job, but depending on the climate, pollution, and whether you garage the car or not, you may have to do it every month. It's incredibly easy using the microfiber towels from target, but still....

    I do like the liquid glass and then applying the s100 because it just seems to work where I reside. I was amazed when I aw those love bugs just come off of the car. Still, I know that at least one other forum member loves speedbead, but i've not even seen it in stores.

    If you're new to the whole waxing, sealing bit....then it may be a good idea to start off with the s100 since it's easy and you'll learn a lot.

    good luck!!
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    What makes it a chore?

    As far as dawn-ing...can I just use the regular .99 blue dawn? Just wash the car with a sponge and the dawn removes the wax...sound to easy!
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    The only wax/polish I've ever used that's held up for a year is the stuff that starts with a Z that we're not allowed to talk about in this thread. My vehicles are also parked outside all the time. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
  • Just use the cheap blue dawn, wash on, and rinse. I know...it DOES seem too easy. During the 'dawn'ing I inspect the car for tar, bugs, sap, etc.

    Applying the liquid glass is difficult because it takes a lot of elbow grease to buff.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I would wash the car with dawn, clay, then use your sealer and then wax. How long the clay bar last depends on where you live and what kind of wax is on your car. If you use a wax that doesn't last things will stick to your paint more. If you live in an area that is harsh to your paint your clay bar will become dirty faster requiring you to fold the dirty side into itself more often.

    You could just do a section that is dull on your car to see if it makes a difference. If you are happy with the results do the rest of the car.

    Yes, I like SpeedBead, but that doesn't mean it's the best, just the best for me. I use Stoner's Invisible Glass and their More Shine, Less Time tire products and have been very happy with the results. My vehicles look "wet" after washing and drying them. If they look wet you can bet they shine. Stoner's has a www. site and will deliver right to your door if you can't find a local store. Check Stoner's site for stores in your area.

    I have read the "other" board, it seems that very few over there use just one "z" product to achieve a long lasting shine. "KISS" is what I believe in.
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    I would wash the car with dawn, clay, then use your sealer and then wax...I have read the "other" board, it seems that very few over there use just one "z" product to achieve a long lasting shine.

    In reality, there's no need to use anymore products with the other brand:

    Dawn - yep just like above

    Clay - check

    Sealer - check again.

    Wax - oops, no check. No need for wax unless you want.

    Personally, I rewash after a full clay job with Dawn again just to be sure but that's only once per year.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    THANKS FOR AL LTHE HELP.

    I'll dawn my dull door, clay it and then seal / wax (or just wax, I only have NuFinish as a sealant) and then I'll report back what happens. Of course now that I ready to go it looks like rain!
  • riposteriposte Posts: 160
    I use it for "quickie" wax jobs, and also after I've cleaned bugs off the front of my truck. "Love bugs" are a real problem here in Florida.

    I recommend it, definitely.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I only mention the wax step because that is what he was doing over his sealer in the other post. For me it is an unnecessary step with SpeedBead, some feel that they need more protection with the product they are using.

    Good luck to him on whatever he decides to use.
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Posts: 191
    robr2 -

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the previous poster is right when he says... "very few over there use just one "z" product."

    With the "z" product, when you get to the sealer step, you're supposed to buy a tiny $20 vial of accelerator to mix with the sealer.

    The website claims you can't use their sealer without this additional, and expensive, product.
  • tmarttmart Spring, TXPosts: 1,496
    A little misinformation. When using the "sealer", Z-2, you have two options, use Z-1 OR use the $20 vial, ZFX. The second is not as expensive as it sounds since only 5 DROPS are used with one oz of Z-2. Also, you only have to do this once or twice a year. Rest of the time you can use the Z-2 by itself if you want to, or NOT at all. It's still going to last 6+ months.
  • 94hawkskin94hawkskin Posts: 116
    I have never used dawn as a car wash soap. My understanding of it is you don't want to use it everytime, but maybe every once in a while. Maybe before you clay your car once a year would be a wise choice.

    I think using dawn started as a Z thing so that people could apply the Z product to a non-waxed or sealed car. After the initial dawning, then Z could be applied on top of itself in subsequent sealings.
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    I just went out at lunch, dawn'd my side door and clayed it. There is still a hazy area on the door...perhaps I messed up the clear coat at some point and that will never go away...you only see it at an angle.

    Test 2: On my from bumper there were bugs. The clay took them off easily; it did leave the tar though. In this test I find claying no advantage since I still must use something else to get the tar off.

    Test 3:
    On my bumper there is impregnated dirt in the paint once again. Let me try to be specific because this is the cause of my biggest headache. From a distance the bumper looks clean and shiny. Up close you can see splotchy dirt in the paint. Its almost as though the paint has a bad complection! If you look under th esideview mirrow at an angle you can also see faint dirt lines at times too. You can rub these areas with a sponge, your finger, soap...nothing gets it out or even phazes it. It does not smear or lighten. This is where I typically turn to NuFInish and if that Fails Meguiar's cleaner wax. This time I turned to my new $10 clay bar. I wet the area with the lube, rubbed the bar all around the area, and.....NOTHING! Still there just as before. I got out the NuFinish, with some hard rubbing it removed it. After it removed it thought the area was a bit dull and did not look smooth. This is where I think the S100 helps...somewhat. If the NUFinish does not work then I turn to the Cleaner Wax, again rubbing hard. Its a pain and if do too large an area at once the whole things starts to look splotchy.

    So, perhaps my problem is Toyota's white paint or the clearcoat itself. Perhaps in the fall I'll strip the car down as best I can and attempt to seal it with the Liquid Glass. Maybe that will make the dirt easier to get out.

    ONE THING: I S100'd the whole car except that front bumper. It will be interesting to see what happens when that dirt starts to appear on my hood. Will I be able to rinse it off, will the NuFinish work or will I again need to resort to t he cleaner wax...

    In the mean time I am going to ask what they use at the car dealer. Surely they have some trick. There must be some sort of liquid that will remove the dirt easily....

    Thanks for all the help..bottom line, IMO, Claying did nothing for me, S100 may or may not be worth the $$$. Time will tell...will post again and let everyone know....

    PS:

    I am going to clay my father-in-laws 10 year old subaru; perhaps the claying is more suited to weathered older cars.

    PSS:
    The Lube smelled like suntan lotion..wonder if that what it is!
  • mattgg1mattgg1 Posts: 191
    Either way, my point is still accurate...either option involves using a second product (Z-1 or ZFX) in addition to the Z-2 polish, which means more time and/or unneeded expense.

    I question the need for ZFX in the first place. It seems like a marketing gimmick to increase the price of their polish from $15 to $35, without much added benefit.

    The only real benefit is increased polish drying time to allow for immediate multiple coats. But one coat supposedly lasts for 6 months, so why you layer it anyway? And if I were applying multiple coats, I'd rather save $20 and just wait a few hours between coats.

    According to their website, ZFX only has a shelf life of 18 months...
    There are enough drops to treat 16 ounces of polish. That is enough polish to do a Corvette 40 times. If you polish your car twice a year, that's 20 years of product, with a shelf life of ONLY 18 MONTHS.

    So ZFX is MORE expensive than it sounds.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Posts: 461
    I believe that your problem is with using NuFinish. The clear coat on the paint is very,very thin. It doesn't take kindly to abrasives or rubbing pressure. Once the clear coat is gone, it's gone and will allow the dirt to get into the paint and the paint will hold onto the dirt like a magnet to steel. I think that the dull paint is caused by scratches in the clear coat from the products you have been using for years. Sort of like using a SOS pad on clear plastic.

    Go to a body shop and ask if they can measure how much clear coat is left on the paint. A good repair shop should do this for nothing since it only takes 1 minute.

    You might just need a professional to rub out your paint with a machine to get the dull clear coat back to normal.

    I would advise you to keep the harsh stuff off of the new RAV and just use S100 or something similar to protect the clear coat.

    One question.... You mention that you went out at lunch to work on your car, you aren't doing this stuff in the sunshine, are you?
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,863
    Either way, my point is still accurate...either option involves using a second product (Z-1 or ZFX) in addition to the Z-2 polish, which means more time and/or unneeded expense.

    You need Z-1 or ZFX ONLY if it is your first application or if you want to do multiple coats in one day. Otherwise, it's Z-2 or Z-5. Yes you do have to buy another product I will admit.

    But one coat supposedly lasts for 6 months, so why you layer it anyway?

    The product was designed for show cars and enthusiasts. They put multiple coats of whatever product for maximum shine.

    According to their website, ZFX only has a shelf life of 18 months...There are enough drops to treat 16 ounces of polish. That is enough polish to do a Corvette 40 times. If you polish your car twice a year, that's 20 years of product, with a shelf life of ONLY 18 MONTHS.

    Just like most detailing products, they go bad. I've seen people toss away plenty of product from any brand because it's hardened up, gotten frozen, whatever.

    An enthusiast will go through plenty of polish so the shelf life isn't an issue. If you plan on doing your car only twice a year, use something else IMHO.

    I use the Z product and spend about $35/year on it. I waste very little. I'd spend that on any other brand as well. It works for me.

    Use what you like.
This discussion has been closed.