Toyota Camry Check Engine Light - Catalytic Converter

chet01588chet01588 Member Posts: 3
edited May 2015 in Toyota
Hi Folks, Can anyone help me? I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 4 Cyl with 125K miles and I'm going on my fifth (that's right 5) catalytic converter. I bought the car used from a dealer and a short time later the Check Engine Light came on (42K mi.). The dealer said it was the catalytic converter and replaced it under warranty. About 1 year later, same thing (different dealer)(62K mi.). About 2 years later same thing only this time not covered under warranty and many other parts including sensors were noted. I took it to my mechanic who told me 2 Oxygen Sensors and 2 Cat Converters were bad. The sensors were probably bad all along and they would make the cat converters go bad over time. I spent the $2K+ and thought it would be fine. 6 Months later, same thing. My mechanic replaced the converter under warranty. 6 Months later same thing light came on. My mechanic says it's the cat converter again. Only now he not so sure given the number of times I've been through this. Here is my question: Could this be the oil gel problem? Note: Oil is changed regularly. No blue smoke or oil consumption evidence. My mechanic ruled this out based on his knowledge of the vehicle. If not oil gel, what else could it be? (My next step is calling the Car Guys.)

See Also: Video Explains Why Catalytic Converters Fail (4 min.)


  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Seems like you're burning a mixture in your cylinders that the cat converters don't like. You'd think the replacing the oxygen sensors would tell the computer to change the mixture, but perhaps either that isn't happening or some other sensor is bad.

    Are you loosing coolant (like caused from a blown headgasket)? or perhaps is something off in the timing?
  • zoom500zoom500 Member Posts: 11
    Sorry I do not have an answer for you but I do have a question. I have a 2002 LE with 150,000 miles and the check engine light has been on for 4 or 5 months. I took it to the dealer last week and he is claiming that I need a new catalytic converter and possibly one or two sensors. Cost for the catalytic convertor installed is $850.00 and each sensor is $250.00, does this sound right?
    What is the downside of doing nothing? I would like to drive this car as long as possible but spending $1350.00 when the car is running like a charm seems crazy.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Well Zoom,

    Many if not most states, will not pass your vehicle for state inspection if the check engine light is on. Perhaps where you live it is different, but you should be aware of that protential exposure.

    Secondly, you may have caused more damage already, due to not taking action at the first sign of a problem. For instance, you could have had one faulty sensor originally, and because you drove it for another 5 months you actually then damaged the catalytic converter beyond repair. The sensors tell the engine computer how well and complete it is burning the mixture, and it lets the computer adjust the mixture and timings correctly. If your engine is now running lean, you could end up burning the valves in the engine and then you are in for some big buxx. Running to rich, ruin the converter. Hard to know how many miles you put on in 5 months, and how much fuel was put thru the engine.

    If it was me, I'd clear the error codes and then after the error code sets again take it to an autoparts chain where they will read the codes for you. I personally have a reader as they are now relatively cheap, but many of the chains (pep boys, autozone, etc) will read it for you for free. That code (search on the internet if you don't have the service manuals) will suggest the first failing component, which very well might be the first in line Oxygen sensor.

    I don't know the cost of a sensor for your car, but they typically run around 50-100 bucks, plus installation which is usually pretty easy. I would not delay getting this problem identified and resolved, and you may find it doesn't need all of the parts suggested.
  • chet01588chet01588 Member Posts: 3
    The prices sound about right for a dealer. From my experience go with the dealer installed opart and get the longest possible warranty. My mechanic did some research about using after market parts for the catalytic converters and they typically don't last as long. In my case, as Kiawa pointed out, the mixture seems to be "destroying" the after market cat converters.

    Make sure you have a dealer you can trust and if they suggest replacing the O2 sensors then you should as they will cause the cat converters to fail if they are not fuunctioning properly. (The sensors are used by the computer to adjust the fuel mixture.) If you're not sure the dealer is being straight, take it to your local mechanic for 2nd opinion. If he is reputable he will charge you a nominal fee to diagnose, $50 or so, and it may be worth it for the piece of mind.

    Best of luck.

    PS - Thanks for the input Kiawa. The mechanic did check the things you suggested and was not able to find a problem. The cat converter will be replaced under warranty (again) and I will see what happens in 6 months. After that I will get the dealer replacement. Even at $2K for a fully warranteed repair it is still cheaper than buying a new car.
  • sunporchsunporch Member Posts: 1
    I replaced my cat converter at 107,000 miles Oct. 2006 on my 2003 Camry. That was after a year of an off and on check engine light. It cost me right around $250.00 which was mostly labor charges at the dealership. I've since found an excellent Toyo mechanic that happens to be a Master Toyota mechanic that does all my work for a third of the cost.
  • sratliffsratliff Member Posts: 1
    i took my 2002 camry to the dealer for the check engine light and was told i needed a new cat converter. the price was high so i called a different place. the person told me it could be $200 or $800 depending on which one it is. is there more than one cat converter on a toyota camry or is he shooting me load of crap?
  • 210delray210delray Member Posts: 4,721
    There's almost certainly a difference between the 4-cylinder and the V6. There's also a possibility that cars sold under California's emission standards may have different cats.
  • noa123noa123 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 corolla w. over 112k miles. I was just told by my dealer ( in NJ) that I need replace my cat converter for my car w. $23K after they diagnosed my check engine light. Why the cost you paid and the one I was told is 10 times different?
    I went to searching the cat converter for my car. The highest parts price is about $400, and the lowest is around $70. I know those are after market parts, but who can tell me the difference? ( I searched the online, there is no official toyota parts price online.)
    I paid 100 bucks to my dealer for my check engine light diagnosis, do I need pay another 50 bucks to another mechanic for a 2nd opinion?
    On April 2007, that dealer just changed the 222204-15010 meter sub-assy, INTA for my car since the check engine' light was on. Is the present problem can be related to the previous one?
    What should I do next? The light has been on since July 10, 2008, should I still drive to the place 100 miles away from my house?
  • reppyreppy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Camry LE V6 with about 90k miles. It drives fine BUT for this problem. When ever I accelerate, it vibrates. The harder the acceleration, the harder you notice the vibration. If i am maintaining same speed irrespective of how fast, it rolls just fine. if i accelerate slow, you might not notice the rattle. I have had my check in engine light on for some weeks now. I have been to the dealership about this vibration and they say its the catalytic converter. I am wondering, can this really be the cause of the vibration on acceleration? I am thinking after reading posts here, that something should have made it go bad. However, these guys are not telling me anything thing like that. They just told me I need to change the front and the rear and slam me a bill of $1900 to get both cat converters replaced. I really want to be sure this is the cause of my problem. any suggestions to the cause of this vibration? Thanks folks.
  • chovichovi Member Posts: 1
    My Camry is a 2001 and has a little bit over 150,000 miles. A week ago I went to my mechanic an he told me that needed to change the 2 O2 sensors, which he did and an hour later the light went on again, the cat was changed a little over 2 years and did not a problem until last couple of months. My question is, do you think I will need to change the cat again?
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Doubt if Catalytic Converter is causing the car to run bad.

    The exhaust is already gone and in the converter and doesn't effect engine unless there is a back pressure issue. This could cause loss of power and backfiring and eventual shut-off.

    Instead get the code for the Catalytic Conv. problem. The code can be read with a tool at Autozone. They will check it for you for free. Theres so many codes for the electronic ignition and emission system. This will narrow it down to a specific symptom.

    The converter could effect the pollution if raw gas gets in it. A bad ignition coil causes raw fuel to go out the exhaust ruining it over time. This would may cause a higher reading of Nitrous gases or the Hydrocarbons it is suppose to burn in the converter.

    The post before mentions poor acceleration. This could be a bad ignition part like the wire or coils if it has separate coils for each cylinder. If not it might just be a spark plug wire going bad.
  • talen316talen316 Member Posts: 32
    I've got an 02 Camry LE 4cyl with ~ 254k miles and just had to replace the catalytic converter for the second time.

    Had to replace the catalytic converter when the check engine light came on for the first time back in 11/04 when the vehicle had 139k miles. Toyota was kind enough to do a "good will" no charge warranty replacement.

    Once again within the past 6 mos or so, the check engine light came back on again and catalytic converter needed replacement again. Total cost to repair at Dealer this time around was $617 which included $377 for the part, $53 for gaskets and $187 for labor.

    According to my dealer, I should expect this to occur every 100k miles give or take. He further explained that today's fuel mixtures are harder on the cat converters, thus causing them to fail earlier/more frequently. Don't know if this is true or not, but this is what my dealer told me so take it FWIW.

    Other then the issues with the cat converter, I can't complain much about the reliability of my Camry as I've pretty much had 254k trouble free miles and going strong.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Where do you live that you are racking up that many miles each day? That's great service from that 4 cylinder, hope I'm as lucky!
  • talen316talen316 Member Posts: 32
    Charlotte metro area... Wife drove the Camry first couple of years and logged a ton of miles due to multi-state territory. Now, it gets driven as daily commuter car up and down I-77. At 255k miles, it shows no signs of slowing down. People that get in it can't believe the mileage it has on it given its condition. Here's wishing you as many trouble free miles with yours as we've had with ours...
  • ssubssub Member Posts: 2
    FYI: I have a 1999 4Cyl Camery LE. Check engine light came ON at 56k, took it to the dealer. They asked $110 for the diag. & end of diag. asked to replace the Cat. converter $850. I took the car to my mechanic and he suggested that it could be sensor or converter, we changed the sensor first (sensor+labor $250) and re-seted the check engine light. so far its running good 57500miles now.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE w/124k miles(Original Owner) and the check engine light came on about a week ago. I took it to a auto parts store and they checked the computer with a code reader. The Code P0420 appeared and said 'Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1'. Both O2 sensors have been replaced within 25k miles. In the Haynes book, it talked about A/F sensor. I would like to know if could be this sensor, the catalytic converter or the 2 other O2 sensors(Upstream sensor replaced by Dealer and downstream replaced w/aftermarket). Is it normal for a catalytic converter to go bad...I thought they last pretty long. I would like to take care of the problem myself...especially how the economy is but at the same time if I have to go to the dealer, I will go because I like my car. Which sensor should I replace or is the catalytic converter bad?
  • ab4dab4d Member Posts: 4
    I am dealing with the exact same issue on my 04 Camry with 152k on the odometer. About a week ago the check engine light came on. I own a code reader which indicated that the upstream O2 sensor had failed. I went to the local autoparts store to purchase the sensor and was advised that I should replace both the upstream and downstream (below the converter) sensors at the same time.
    The funny thing is the sensors were boxed as aftermarket Bosch, but actually the upstream was stamped "Toyota" and the downstream was stamped "Denso" which I believe both are OEM Toyota.

    I went ahead and installed both sensors and the check engine light disappeared for about a day. The next day about halfway home from work (80 miles one way) the check engine light came on again, this time giving the code of P0420 which indicates the converter has failed.

    I took the car to the dealer and asked them to check the new sensors to ensure that I had not recieved a bad sensor. The dealer did not bother to test them, and just assumed that they were good. He quoted $795.00 to replace the converter which he did not have in stock. I asked him how did he know that the converter was bad, and did he test the emissions from the tailpipe? He advised that he did not have the equipment to test the emissions and also admited that if the downstream sensor was bad it would indicate P0420.

    My advice is to get the emissions from the tailpipe checked before you shell out for a converter, I know I am.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    First Id like to say I have fixed a lot of the po 420 codes on california and fedaral emission camrys 4 and 6 cyl. 9 out of 10 times it is from a failing cat. I have never ever seen a rear sensor cause a po 420 code. As a sensor fails It generally gets lazy not switching fast enough. On a car with a working cat the rear 02 sensor should look lazy and have very little activity at all, unlike like the frt air fuel sensor on a calif car, or an 02 sensor on a federal. If u have not noticed way to many waste money on the sensors because they have no clue what they are looking at It is very easy to diagnose this code if u have any clue what u are doing.The frt air fuel sensor can only be tested using a lab scope. Also aftermarket cats absolutely do not work on california emissions vehicles or they work for an extremely short time .On the later model camry 4cyl around 97 to 02? They have 2 cats one in the manifold and one in the frt pipe. If u are having the 420 code u could opt to try changing the front cat ( part of the frt manifold) As it is substantially cheaper then the rear. But both are monitored by the computer. I bet these people changing cats every 6 months are putting on junk aftermarket!!!!!!! The rear factory cat is around 1100 no way u are changing that every 6 months. And if the vehicle is running correctly easy to ck by cking fuel trims should last 100k or more. Please any questions u can e mail [email protected]
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 4cyl Camry 125kmiles and had the ck engine lt on and live in the northeast area. I went to autozone to ck the code and of course the P0420 popped up. Both sensors were replaced( 1 by the dealer at 90k miles and the 2nd by myself w/aftermarket sensor at 110k miles) I wasn't sure if it was the catalytic converter or not(maybe in denial cause it cost a lot to replace) but to make sure, I disconnected the battery overnite to reset the computer. The next morning, I connected it and the ck eng lite was gone and it hasn't come on ever since. The question is that is my catalytic converter bad or what? Did I do more damage by just resetting the computer or was it just an error? I assume if the cat was bad, the code would pop up. If I'm doing an injustice by resetting the computer tell me so, if not i guess nothing was wrong. I just hope i am not doing any damage.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    Belive it or not it will be back on. If u had the code cleared it may stay out for several weeks or even a month Trust me it will be back. U will do no more damage to ur car if u clear it everytime it comes back on. But in most states it it has a code current ot in memory it will fail for an emissions sticker. I bet u have a cat that is borderline bad and under the rite circumstances ie load emgine temp fuel trims. The comp will pick up on it and trip the light again. Same thing happens when people replace an 02 sensor thinking they fix this problem and clear the code sometimes the light will stay out for a month til the computer sees the circomstances where the converter is not working the way it should it will put the light back on. Just ck back here when the light comes back on. The 420 code is an emissions code and it wont get u stuck or cause any problems but put the light on and maybe polute a bit more then it should in california standards.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the info...i will definitly keep an i on it. Its funny u said that about the sensor. I replaced the downstream sensor9by the converter) and thought that was the problem and scared to take to the dealer cuz i no they r going to charge me an arm and a leg! lol If it goes on of course i will ck the code...if it is the converter approx how much is it from the dealer, i am in NY and dnt hav CA standards. I am a little handy...can i do it myself or is it too hard?Thanks again for the info
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    It is Are u stitting down. The rear converter is aprox 1200. The front is aprox 400? Both are monitored by that rear 02 sensor. sometimes changing just front will do the trick. It sucks to change either as far as the cost. The labor is quite simple to change either. Metal gasket where the manifold bolts the head and ring gaskets at either end of frt pipe/converter assembly. Sometime the studs that are in the manifold can be a problem u may or may not need a torch. I know of no other fix other then factory cats as of yet. I am looking into one other alternative but am not sure of what the outcome would be.
  • tmoney4tmoney4 Member Posts: 8
    Thanks again 4 the info...I will definitly keep that in mind if I get the P04020 code and probably end up replacing either 1 or both cat. conv.
  • grizz17grizz17 Member Posts: 1
    I am having this exact same issue with my '01 camry 4cyl. Somehow I was lucky enough to purchase a "California" model in colorado...lucky me. I have just replaced the back cat 2 weeks ago, I figured it was going bad for a bit because it smelled extra rich and then the light came on. The guy I took it to replaced it for about $400. The light has been flirting on and off since then, I took it in last Friday and he tells me that this is a California model and that he had no idea and that this is the cat that is throwing the code. His quote is $600 for the cat plus labor. My question is, how the heck can you not notice that there is a cat on the exhaust manifold when you're under the car putting the rear cat on? At this point, I'm opting for a second opinion, but is it conceivable that someone could just not notice this? It sure doesn't look like a normal exhaust manifold to me.
    My question is this; is this the cat that I should have worried about in the first place and the second one is just redundant since it's a California model? I live in colorado and I don't even have an emissions test to worry about, what I am concerned about is performance and possible ramifications down the road if I don't pony up to fix this in the next couple weeks? Will this cat going bad affect power because I have noticed as well these past couple of weeks that it is more sluggish tackling hills and I get a whiff of exhaust through the vents when it kicks up a gear.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I noticed one post asking how difficult this is to replace, if necessary, and I ask the same question since two sets of mechanics out here have missed the fact that this thing was even installed in the first place? Why throw good money after bad people?

    thank you for your help, I greatly appreciate it after all I have been through with this car I really would like to do it the honor of driving it until it drops :)
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    First question to u would be, Did that mechanic put on a factory cat from the dealer? I think I can even answer my own question And that is gona be a big no. It is roughly 1200 dollars for that rear cat from toyota. and if u use a aftermarket cat inplace of the factory, the light will be back on very shortly. On the california emission camrys Toyotas fix is to replace both cats. Sometimes putting on one new one will get u by for a period of time if the other is borderline. But i cant stress it enough that if u use aftermarket cats u will not get rid of this code and if it does it will be for such a short period of time if u got it for a 100 it would still not be worth it. The cat should not be making is smell rich U may have other problems causing ur car to run rich or lean that would cause damage to ur converter possible melting and u would notice power loss. To ck for a restricted converter u would need to ck the backpressure through the frt air fuel ratio sensor. And to see if ur fuel mixture is correct u would need to monitor ur fuel trim data with a scan tool. My best suggestion is to take it to someone that has had experience with this code on this model car. U may even want to concider taking it to a dealer.Even in colorado I would say u have a 50 50 chance of having a vehicle that has california emissions they are very common. The mechanic should have know it has 2 cats and should of know u dont use aftermarket on these california emisson cars. .If u did not have power related problems and a smell I would say drive it because generally the 420 code will not cause problems just polute a lil more then it should but in ur case where u notice it to be low on power I would have it looked at.Any other questions post here or e mail me I will give the best advice I can
  • chet01588chet01588 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Folks, Long time since I made my original post. I went through many cat converters before I got it right. Bottomline - be careful about aftermarket oxygen sensors. The dealers replaced the CATs but never even looked at the O2 sensors. When my mechanic changed it, it would not work well with the computer system in the Toyota, causing it to run rich, thus burning out 3 more CATs. (All replaced by my mechanic at no charge.) I finally took it to a dealer who knew how to fix the problem (3rd try). That was over a year ago and (knock wood) no problems since. I have had my Camry for about six years and the engine light was on for most of the first 4 years. Watch out for those O2 sensors. Good luck to all!!
  • bsternbergbsternberg Member Posts: 1
    sunporch or anyone. Any South Chicago suburbs master toyota mechanics you can pass on?
  • azmustangazmustang Member Posts: 5
    I also have a 2001 camry 4 cyl with catalytic converter issues. The car has 91000
    miles. The exhaust pipe in front of the catalytic converter broke off, requiring the
    replacement of the rear catalytic converter. My mechanic did the replacement with
    what I would think is an aftermarket replacement, since the total bill was about $600.
    ( I am only learning now of the the problems with non-Toyota replacement converters.)
    The converter was replaced 6-8 weeks ago. A few weeks ago, the engine light came on. My mechanic said that the code came up that now the front converter needs to
    be replaced. Based on what I've been reading, this may not be a final fix since the
    back converter is aftermarket. I have asked the service people at my Toyota dealer
    if they can determine if the replacement rear converter will work adequately if I go
    ahead and replace the front converter with a Toyota converter. They told me that there really is no way to determine that. I am looking at at least $660. for the dealer
    to replace the front converter. If the rear converter does not work adequately, then I am looking at an additional $1,325 to replace the rear converter with a Toyota
    converter. If both air sensors are bad, there is the chance that the repair bill could
    be even $400 higher. I'm trying to determine if it is time to cut my losses. The worst case scenario is that these repairs could add up to about $2,400. Potentially
    another $2,400 into an 8 year old car??? The choices seem to be prepare for the
    possibility of $2,400 in repairs, or take my chances and just drive it the way it is.
    Any experience with how long I might be able to continue driving it if I do nothing?
    Or risk the $660. to replace the front converter? Thank you for your thoughts.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    Wow what a Catalytic problem.

    First, air sensors should be easy to change, and about $25.00 dollars each. You're check light is coming on? I would not get to concerned about the light. It could be improper installation on the rear converter.

    Not much could go wrong here though. I would get an Emissions test to check for exhaust pollution levels. I think converters reduce NOX's gases.Then go from there.This is only the exhaust and dosn't effect the engine at all only the atmosphere.
  • bryanbbfanbryanbbfan Member Posts: 1
    I too have a check engine light question. I just purchased a used 1997 Toyota Camry from a private party. The condition of purchase was that the seller would get a current California smog certificate and replace the plug wires before I would buy it. So the next day, the seller had a completed smog certificate from that day and new plug wires under the hood. I completed the purchase. About six miles out the door, the check engine light comes on. I have in my hand a legitimate smog inspection report stating that the car passed date today, and there are brand new plug wires under the hood.

    My question is: Is there something either the smog check or tune up technician could have done, or forgot to do, to make the check engine light come on?
    Is there some sort of code that was supposed to be reset and possibly forgotten?

    It is difficult to believe that there some failure so soon after a passed smog check.

  • wenhqwenhq Member Posts: 14
    Could anyone help me on this?

    I bought a used 2001 Camry CE in year 2005. I had no idea about the separate emission warranty until now. I failed my state inspection in MA last year (Setp. 2008, around 70K miles) for the bad catalytic converter. However, i never got the check engineer on. I went to Toyota dealer and replaced the catalytic converter, which costed me $1300. I remembered that i asked the service manager if this is under warranty, and he said no.

    Now (7 months later), I realized there is a emission warranty, which is for 8 yrs / 80K miles. Could anyone confirm this for me since i don't have the owner's warranty booklet? I just checked my repair receipt last night, and it stated as Exhaust System (Front). It didn't say Catalytic Converter. Is the Exhaust System (Front) same as Catalytic Converter.

    Tomorrow, I am going to the dealer and ask for the money back. Is there any chance I can get my money back since the catalytic converter is under warranty?

    Thanks and any inputs are appreciated.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    25 Dollars for an air fuel ratio sensor? lol some people are not even on this planet. And it only has one if it is california emission. It has afr in the front and ho2s in the rear.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    There is no good way to determine wich one is causing the light to come due to how they are tested is by looking at the rear o2 sensor and that sensor is monitoring both converters! But from experience aftermarket converters on these cars DO NOT WORK OR WORK FOR A VERY VERY SHORT TIME AND ARE A WASTE OF MONEY.Amazing how many garages have no clue and waste hard working peoples money. Take it back to the guy that put the aftermarket cat and let him fix it the rite way.
  • rearwheeldriverearwheeldrive Member Posts: 140
    I replaced mine just for laughs. $31.99 Autozone. 1987 Corolla. 4 cyl.

    The new models have gone up. Does anyone go to junk yards? You can find cheaper prices and sometimes you get lucky and find a new part. A sensor should be easy to remove, (search blog 1990 Q-45, a trip to the junkyard). Although converters are sold for scrap and missing most of the time.
  • cbayhoocbayhoo Member Posts: 2
    The check engine light came on about 600 miles into an 850 mile trip. Everything was OK and had it checked at dealer upon arrival. $101 for diagnosis and $767 estimate for new cat converter (code p0204). Let me chew on that!! My son called his trusted mechanic and was told $300 total. Then called my mechanic at home---he said drive it! I'm home in VA and light is still on but car runs OK. So, what's next? State inspection is in Sept.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    U can drive it with no problems. But u may not get a sticker depending on or states emissions testing. Lol that suposid trusted mechanic is gona cost u alot more money in the long run. He is stupidly giving u a price on an aftermarket cat! I will give u 300 if it works because i know it will not! good luck with that. 767 is a good price from a dealer. And the code should be po 420 cat effeciency low bank 1.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Do you know that you're one of the reason's aftermarket catalytic converters, perfectly good catalytic converters, can be purchased so cheaply..??

    A lot more profit/markup for factory converters so of course aftermarket, possibly from the exact same supplier but absent the factory logo/#, converters are a lot less expensive, inordinately so.

    Supply & demand.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    Ur wrong. If u could read, u would see that this is the main problem people putting on aftermarket converters and having the same problem. Keep it up with the bad advise, U will be in the same boat as many on this thread. U must be like many other mechanics that put them on, and then when they dont work u have no clue what to do. Or how to propperly check one. Most aftermarket are not teir1 or lev complient.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Compliant or not if the downstream oxygen sensor is "happy" then I'm happy.
  • toptechtoptech Member Posts: 11
    Well I have a pile of like new aftermarket converters,If u are intrested in them. No one pays more then 5 bucks for a used aftermaket converter. U get 5 to 10 times more for a used oe converter. I know why that is, do u?
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...I know why that is, do u?.."

    Yes, absolutely.

    Not even the after market service shops will install a non-OEM labelled converter, so the vendors are disposing of the stock on hand at firesale prices.

    Is it because those non-OEM labelled converters are less efficient, less reliable, or is it because there is a LOT more profit to pocket if you begin with the pricing level of an OEM labelled converer...??
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    "...No one pays more than 5 bucks for a used aftermarket converter..."

    Who, in their right mind, would buy a USED converter, aftermarket or otherwise...??

    Maybe if I removed it myself from the low mileage donor car at the wrecking yard, otherwise I would be highly suspicious of the "source".
  • cbayhoocbayhoo Member Posts: 2
    Now the check engine light has gone off several days ago. Car is running fine and my mechanic insists its OK. I'm going with the status quo for now. Thanks for your input.
  • rrichardrrichard Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with the Cat Con on my 03 Camry LE. How can you find which one is bad? Can you buy OEM's at discount? And is there a special procedure for installation?
  • middleroadmiddleroad Member Posts: 3
    My dealer told me that there is a service bulletin instructing him to replace my catalytic converter under warranty. My check engine light came on, I took it in, dealer said the code indicated the catalytic converter and that for 02 - 04 Camrys ( I may remember the years wrong, but mine is an 03) they are reprogramming the computers in the car, and installing new converters, for free.

    The dealer said he give me a copy of the service bulletin. I can provide additional detail if anyone is interested later.
  • tink45tink45 Member Posts: 1
    Hello Middleroad!

    It would be VERY helpful to obtain a copy of the service bulletin concerning the Catalytic converter replacements. I phoned a local Toyota dealership (service dept) today and they could not find anything about this (perhaps it is new?). Any direction would be greatly appreciated.
  • noysecretnoysecret Member Posts: 3
    where would i be able to get a service bulletin about the free catalytic converter? Can you please email me a copy of that please cause i need a catalytic converter for my 2002 Camry. Thanks!!!!!
  • 2002camry22002camry2 Member Posts: 1
    I, too, would love to have a copy of the service bulletin! I have a 2002 Camry and the check engine light code is for the catalytic converter. If you would send me any details you can, I would be most appreciative.
  • number1dadnumber1dad Member Posts: 1
    Just got a check engine light and took to my local parts store. I was told the catalytic converter oxygen sensor was giving the alarm code. I would like to have a copy of the service bulletin when available. Is this OK to continue to drive?
  • lori826lori826 Member Posts: 1
    Can I please get a copy of the bullatin from you I have a 2003 camry and it has been nothing but problems since the day I drove it off the lot. Thank you!
Sign In or Register to comment.