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Isuzu Trooper Engine and Performance Problems

lbonellolbonello Posts: 1
edited August 2014 in Isuzu
I have an isuzu 4jb1 tdi engine fitted on a landrover. Can any one tell me what is its bhp output. Once I had to change the head gasket because it was leaking a little coolant liquid, but after a while coolant is stil leaking again. however it seems that all of a suuden coolant liquid stopped leaking and now oil is leaking. Is this a normal problem. It also blows some oil from the valve cover. would realy appreciate any help pls.


  • salvessalves Posts: 7
    I own a 2001 3.5 4x4 Trooper and it looks like the #1 cylinder rod bearing has spun. The vehicle has 83,000 miles on it. Does anyone know if the problem can be solved by replacing the crank shaft and bearings or does one have to rebuild or replace the engine?
    Has anyone else had this problem and actually fixed it?

    I am leaning toward replacing the crank shaft and bearings or trying to sell the thing for what ever I can get for it.
  • shady12shady12 Posts: 2
    I've had a 92 Trooper, automatic, V6, 4x4, with 155k miles for almost 2 years now. I haven't been able to take it on out of town trips. Before I bought it, I took it to a mechanic that is a friend of the family so I trusted him. He said the only issue was a cracked valve cover gasket.

    It seems to run fine except for the engine sometimes knocking. And a lot of the times when I come to a stop and am slowing down to a stop light or something, it won't idle smooth, it will kind of do a tiny rev a few times until I'm stopped. If I drive for awhile the check engine light usually comes on, then will turn off if I brake and come almost to a stop. The time I did try to take it on the highway, I made it no more than 20 miles out before there were poofs of black smoke coming out of the exhaust, and all the sudden I couldn't maintain speed even with gas pedal down, and I stopped and it was knocking like crazy, doing the little rev thing, and barely run. So of course I turned around and went home. I've never had a problem with it otherwise as far as stalling out or dying or anything. I think it stalled out once at an intersection within a couple months of buying it, but that's it. Never had an issue with in-town driving.

    Does this sound like nothing but what that guy told me when I got it, a cracked valve gasket cover? Something else? If you may be able to diagnose it based on what I've set, what sort of cost we talking about for repair? Thanks!
  • Wow, sounds familiar...My Trooper just crapped out on me (88,000 miles)this past weekend. Exact same problem as yours. What did you end up doing? Did you find someone to fix the bearing, or did you find it too expensive to justify the repair????
  • Last week I replaced the intake gaskets on my 1991 Isuzu Trooper. It has the 2.8 liter V-6. Upon reading the instructions with the gasket set it said DO NOT CUT the gaskets. So I removed the pushrods (keeping them in order because the book said there are two different lengths and, I was very maticulous to get them back in the right order...) and upon adjusting the valve lash which, 1 and 1/2 turns past lash is what I did, when I tried to start the engine all it would do was crank and backfire out the exhaust (LOUD, like a shotgun). Upon backing them all off a full turn, the engine started, and it does run okay, now that I've set the timing, but after it is hot and I shut it off, it won't restart... only cranks. If I hold it to the floor (fuel injected - throttle body) like it is flooded, it will start, but chugs a little bit until it gets going. As far as starting cold, it starts right up in the mornings. Is this an issue with the valves not run according to the book? I thought maybe it was a misprint in Chilton's but when I also viewed it in a GM repair manual (for the 2.8 since it is similar) it also states 1 and 1/2 turns past lash. Should I re-do the lash and go 1 and 1/2 turns again and see what happens? I don't want to hurt the engine or valve train since it has over 200k on it and was running good before, just leaking oil out the back of the intake and around the distributor shaft.
  • Try the old fashion way. Warm up the engine, remove valve covers and loosen lifters, with the engine running, until you hear tapping, tighten until tapping stops and go a quarter turn tighter. Always worked on the John Deere at home.
  • mt33mt33 Posts: 1
    My engine blew 2200 miles after I had an oil change. no warning lights. no engine temp warnings. nothing. my %&*#@%#$* trooper had 74000 miles on it. I was the second owner so there was no warranty. i think if there are enough cases of this happening... it seems WAY TOO COMMON already there is a case that it is a defective product and we can get a class action or lawsuit together to compensate us on this piece of crap, cylindar warping, oil burning P.O.S. 3.5 L V6 Isuzu engine.

    Please let me know if there are more of us out there... no way should an engine blow with that few miles on it after an oil change.

  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    How was your oil level before it blew? Did you check the oil during the 2200 miles after the oil change? I am having to add oil to my '00 Trooper between 1200 & 1500 miles which according to info posted before is okay by ISUZU. Perhaps the oil pump failed suddenly. Sorry for your loss.
  • Very interesting - I am in the process of buying a 2002 Trooper and when I had the vehicle checked out the oil level was very low. No sign of leaks and pressure gauge was apparently reading fine. Will have to periodically check the oil level as suggested.
    Are the powertrain warrantees (about which such a big deal is made) not transferable?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    All car manufacturers require you to check your oil every 1k miles and it can be down 1 quart. Very few motors have blown on these vehicles actually and the 3.5 is a good motor if you check the oil.

  • I have a 91 trooper II 4wd with the 2.6 4 cylinder that is great wen its not driving me crazy! To start it every day I have to spray starting fluid in to the intake or it will not fire at all! After it has run for a while it will start up without the starting fluid! Also wen driving down the road at times it will cough and sputter sometimes even back fire! I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, and air filter! None of wich seams to help much! It did have an exaust leak which I also fixed! That seamed to help a little but again not much! Also lately it has started making a kind of grinding noise in the tranfer case! any suggestions would be greatly appriciated!
  • gahlgahl Posts: 7
    sounds like an air intake leak - have you checked the timing?
  • Yes that was one of the first things I did wen I got it! The timing is right on the money! Air intake leak? I dont know! How would I check?"
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    The 2.8 was known to get a gasket leak between the TBI and the manifold. If you spray wd40 around the base of the TBI while it is running and the idle changes then you can expect there to be a bad gasket. Same applies for the intake manifold to head gasket, although I had not heard of them being a problem. Wouldn't hurt to spray them as well. DO NOT use a flammable spray, WD40 works and won't burn you or your engine up.
    Hydraulic lifters normally don't need adjustment...the 2.8 is a GM engine. Isuzu did spec some diff. parts (gasket quality, etc) but main components are the same.
    You can actually adjust the lifters on the 2.8 with the engine running, and normally you take the slack out (warm engine) and then tighten the rocker nut a little more.
    I can't speak to how much, but if the engine has a lot of miles, then oil pressure may be a little lower and a turn and a half would be about right, but I would not do any more than that, my opinion! While there, inspect each rocker arm where it contacts the valve spring to be sure it is not worn through. Had a couple that wore there too. Usually fairly obvious once you look. Bad heat treat, I think.
    good luck
  • Does all that aply to the 2.6 4 cylinder? Mine has the 2.6 4 cylinder not the 2.8 v 6!
  • Hi all. :( I have a 89 Trooper with a 2.6 4/cyl, it is fuel injected and on cold start acts like a carbed version with the choke stuck shut, lots of black smoke and 10 minutes of chugging. after that it runs fine. I am also getting about 9 mpg around town "lol" this is my second Trooper but my first with fuel injection so any ideas will help. The truck has a new head, and tune up includeing wire ,rotor, cap, and all filters.
  • as far as the black smoke and chugging I really couldn't tell you! As far as mileage My brother in-law had an 89 trooper with the injected 2.6 that ran like a champ! and he only got ten mpg around town! Mine is a 91 also 2.6 and I'm only getting at best 13 mpg around town! But mine does have issues! I,m not sure but I dont think the mpg will get much better! If you take into account the weight of the trooper! according to the vin tag just inside the drivers door mine out weighs my friends 1973 jeep grand wagoneer! ITS A TANK!
  • Hey thanks for the info, my 86, "carbed" got decent mileage around town , but it was a slug, I'll pay for the gasoline for the extra performance. The cold start thing is a real problem though and I hate to just throw parts at it until I figure it out. These early Troopers are addicting probably the best all around SUV of its time. thanks for the info, and thanks to all for a great forum for a great vehicle.
  • we have a 94 trooper and it is stuck in park and it is in front of our driveway and I need it to be in the driveway so we can park our other car in our driveway, does anyone have any suggestions? anything helps thank you
  • we have a 94 trooper and the oil is low every time we check it and we get the normal oil changes, when it says on the sticker and it is always low before we get it changed we have to put about 4 quarts in before we have it changed and there is no leak, and the gauge says it is fine, but it is not
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