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Isuzu Trooper Engine and Performance Problems

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Comments

  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 867
    I'm not sure if the cat converter will always put on the CEL. Anyone know? My Trooper is an '00 so the computer stuff is probably different.

    Mine is showing a CEL light and Azone said it show the EGR valve. Well, mileage and performance are good. I will pull it and clean it and the EGR tube and see if that helps IF it ever cools off a little. I did finally find a brush to use on the EGR tube at a local hardware store...it was labeled as a percolator brush, I guess to clean an old coffee percolator tube, about 10-12 inches long and 1/2 inch or so in diameter...perfect for that tube.

    Good luck anyway.
  • uralnyuralny Posts: 3
    well, the plugs and wires did the job, running like a top now. gotta do some greasing though, it squeeks alot while turning and on bumpy roads.
  • I've got the exact same problem and it's a stumper. To read the codes you need to locate the white connector underneath the dashboard next to the center console. Make sure the ignition is all the way off then take a wire andplace one end in each of the outer terminals. Turn the key on but dont start it. look at the check engine light and count the number of times it flashes. it should start out with 1 then a pause then 2. this should repeat 3x then it should start flashing any other codes that it has stored. write them down and then you can always go up to autozone.com and they have the online repair manual which has the description of what the codes are.
  • Please help ! Just bought and drove 7-8 miles lost all power and shut off. ?. Changed filters and fuel.
    What can I try. I don't know much at all about Diesel but can't afford a Mechanic.

    What engines will fit ? ie... Toyota 22 R ? Toyota T-100 ? ? ?
    Thanks for any advice Mike
  • While it is not a Subaru ( a diesel is a diesel in that they all work the same way) my diesel Rabbit did the same thing in a parking lot one night.

    On top of your diesel injection pump there should be a single fine electrical wire going to a fuel cut off switch. Now either that wire has either broken off, or in some cases, the plastic covering has cracked off so it grounds against the fuel pump. This is a "hot" wire. It cannot come into contact with ground. It connects to a small nut which is the solenoid relay to cut off the fuel(otherwise your diesel will never shut off). You in fact can run a wire from the positive post of the battery to the solenoid and connect it that way to see if the solenoid is good - and then try to start the car. It should start if the solenoid is good. In order to shut off the car you need to disconnect the wire from the battery.
    This tells you the solenoid is good; so the problem is electrical and could go back as far as the ignition switch. I do not believe you would have a fuse inline but that is a matter to check in a repair manual.
  • j24eannej24eanne Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 1996 Trooper 3.2 automatic that has had a never ending battle with engine racing. Every once in a while it will operate at a normal RPM, but usually it is way over 2. It will go down the road at 30 MPH with no foot on the gas. It has had countless parts replaced including the computer. It has ice cold air, and the heater core is now bypassed. However, every once in a while it will start blowing humid and hot and then proceed to overheat. Sometimes going down the road the gas will spit/skip a little. Sometimes it really doesn't want to start and sounds like it's flooded. All of these problems are intermittent, but I have to wonder if they are somehow all connected. Any ideas of one part that would pertain to all?
    On a separate note (I think) the transmission does not shift smoothly and has never had much power. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • filibogadofilibogado Posts: 1
    My Trooper has 140,000 miles on it. Recently, the engine and transmission powertrain started shaking and shivering when I accelerate, especially after starting cold. It seems to me that the engine and transmission components are tugging at each other, so I get this rumbling, hesitating response from the drive train, much like riding a buckling bronco. I can also see the engine rpm fluctuating within a narrow range around 850-950 rpm while stopped with the automatic transmission engaged in drive position. Once I step on the gas, the hesitation and push-pull among the engine and train components start again, and the engine threatens to die but has never done so. In sum, I would describe it as a combination of rough idling and shifting that has to be experienced first hand because its hard to describe in words.

    I have topped up the transmission fluid but that did not help. My next step is to drain the fluid and replace the filter, or have the engine tuned up, or both.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Fil
  • Has anyone swapped engines in a '95 Trooper...i.e. taken the isuzu out and put another brand of engine in the trooper?
  • Which one is more efficient? What's the advantage of DOHC?
  • rshanershane Posts: 1
    My Trooper has 187k on her, and has started the same shuddering/sputtering when under load, as described by "filibogado" in the below post:

    "Recently, the engine and transmission powertrain started shaking and shivering when I accelerate, especially after starting cold. It seems to me that the engine and transmission components are tugging at each other, so I get this rumbling, hesitating response from the drive train, much like riding a buckling bronco. I can also see the engine rpm fluctuating within a narrow range around 850-950 rpm while stopped with the automatic transmission engaged in drive position. Once I step on the gas, the hesitation and push-pull among the engine and train components start again, and the engine threatens to die but has never done so. In sum, I would describe it as a combination of rough idling and shifting that has to be experienced first hand because its hard to describe in words.

    I have topped up the transmission fluid but that did not help. My next step is to drain the fluid and replace the filter, or have the engine tuned up, or both."



    Anyone have any suggestions??

    Thanks for any input.

    Regards,

    Shane
This discussion has been closed.