By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
How much do you pay Edmunds to allow you to promote this restorative balm? Edmunds should be collecting 10% on every dollar of revenue. Probably are. If they are not then they need to examine this.
WKA - I thought I did answer your question. Bird poop comes right off my Zainoed car. But I tend to try to get it off within a day or so, even if I don't wash the rest of the car. If you let the sh*t sit for days or weeks, and if liquid glass protected well, then liquid glass is the superior product. If on the other hand, you tend to clean it off rather quickly, then Zaino is just as good.
Depending on which way you want to go (either Zaino or the other waxes/glazes you stipulate), either go the Zaino route with your steps 1,2,3,6,7,8 (I'd replace your step 3 with a Z7 wash), or go the other route doing steps 1,2, 4,5,10.
Don't mix Zaino with the other stuff, though. You're defeating the purpose.
re bird dropping. I keep a spray bottle of water and Z7 in my trunk, and whenever I spot tree sap or bird dropping, I simply spray the spot and leave it for a few minutes. Another spray and it seems to wipe off. A few more sprays and gently wiping finishes the job. Provided that the car has a few layers of Z2 (and Z6).
This topic still looks healthy and even has a few good arguments. And lots of new blood. And I will be back after a few more days.
But you are the first Zaino user that I have ever heard of that applies wax over the Zaino so I would not expect much feedback from your original question.--"I was just wondering what are your best wax application tips with Zaino?" --which I misunderstood because I have never and would never put any wax product on top of the Zaino.
It sounded to me like you were not happy with doing the procedure you were doing every 3 months.
I don't believe any product is going to help get rid of scratches from dogs, shopping carts and keys. They tend to cause deep scratches that will cut right through the clearcoat and base paint.
I don't know much about Pinnacle Sovereign wax, but hope it has no abrasives as abrasives will strip off the Zaino, and I am not planning on finding out at $70 for an 8 oz container.
You should use one mitt for the top part of the car and another one for the parts under the door trim.
kind of wax or what. Thanks for your help
Scotty
Ran into several rain storms and had to leave the car outside every night. I haven't washed it since returning home two days ago, but the car looks almost like it was just washed! The rain beaded up beautifully and just slid off the paint. The wheels are the dirtiest part of the car due to black brake dust. If I wasn't completely sold on Zaino before (I actually was!), I've reinforced my status as a "Zaino fanatic." It's the best car care product I've ever used!
Just wade through some of the posts here, I am sure most of your questions have been answered before.
help out my 74 vette
Scotty
Look a the shine on our '97 Accord, first polished about a year ago with Zaino. As they say, "Just do it".
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1016688&a=9788935&p=32461561&Sequence=0&res=high
Second, the recommendations for the absolutely best preparation and initial application sound very hard and time consuming, particularly if you have not clayed before and choose to do so with Zaino. But these recommendations are the same for any good preparation of any protectant you might choose to do; the towels, the Dawn wash, and claying. After that initial preparation, using Zaino becomes easier, and that's regardless of whether you pile it on day after day, week after week, or six months to six months.
I would not use the word "kit" to describe the collection of products you should and could use as they are available individually at no difference in price, and they are only relatively expensive if you compare them to the cheapest brands on the shelves and, honestly the $6.95 Zaino shipping and handling, if you only bought the two basic products; Z1, the basic chemical preparation product @$8.95, and Z2, the clearcoat formulated polish, or Z3, the regular paint polish formulation @$12.95. One would probably want to tack on the Z7 wash concentrate, @$7.95, and the Z6 gloss enhancer @$9.95, a grand total of less than $47.
That could easily carry you through three years. The Zaino website says that the 8 oz polish products could be applied to a medium sized car eight times. Sal Zaino has told me that he does his Viper 20 times, but then he's the expert to begin with.
To make the shipping and handling charge and your product mix to go to the max, I would say add 2-3 more wash concentrates, another gloss enhancer and perhaps another polish, Z2 or Z3, or Z5; the shine is easily maintained with just the wash and gloss enhancer.
Oh, yes, I am a Zaino distributor on the side, but you'd have to buy it from me for me to get anything out of all the time I've spent adding to your knowledge here, and because edmunds has provided this forum free, I do not divulge how to contact me. I liked the product and believe that you are most likely to, also. Just enjoy the look it gives your vehicle and the ease with which you obtain it, once you're past the initial application.
I fnid your posts helpful (even for a long time Zaino advocate like myself and others who post here). Even if someone is not a Zaino user, your comments really are worthwhile for finish care, in general.
From my perspective, your comments are always welcome.
Thanks!
CLAY: Literally a plasticene/abrasive mixture used to smooth new paint and remove over spray. This type of product must be used with lots of lubricant. The technique of using a clay is a learned skill. Use too little lubricant, or get contaminants in the clay, and you have moved into scratch city. This is one product that is the fast lane to trouble if not used with extreme care. I do not recommend this product as a general paint cleaner. You literally grind off a layer of paint. Should be used as was intended, to remove paint over spray.
I don't know whether clay not labelled abrassive is (as red Clay Magic has been said to be, as opposed to blue Clay Magic). I agree with the cautions bornagain quotes; they are included in the instructions with the brands of clay that I have used. I just have a problem with the editorial tone that implies that clay is much more trouble than it is worth; that you are, just by the use of clay, grinding away your paint. I haven't seen the physical evidence on the clay, or on the paint's surface.
Now, since it is the tendency for Americans to not read directions, perhaps the 'stay-away-from-it' tone is warranted. If you do not use enough lubricant, or none, the clay may stick fast to a surface and be 'pulled' out of your hand, and, perhaps, fall to the ground and pick up sand. Then you do have something that will grind the paint. But I do not find that, just by its nature, that clay is the great horror and threat that it is portrayed to be in the quote.
Then I will try the clay again.
If it still does not work I will use the 3M Swirl remover but am trying to avoid the use of abrasives.
Tooth enamel is the hardest substance in the human body.
Professional tooth cleaning will not even wear through enamel. Clear coat is much, much softer than tooth enamel. Modern day clear coats are quite thin and soft thanks to EPA paint guidelines.
If it wasn't and could hold up to chewing, saliva and abrasive tooth polishes, dentists would use clearcoat paint to coat teeth.
Thanks
To get wax or polish off trim I have heard of trying peanut butter (but have not tried this myself), lighter fluid, or rubbing alcohol. The Zaino tire dressing(Z16) might also be able to hide it.
To get to the point, I decided to 'sucker up', buy and try Z1, Z2 and Z6 on my new Regal GS (Sterling Silver).
A couple days after taking the car home, I had a well-known detailer here in L.A. wax the car and make it 'shiny'. Cost was $160 and I wasn't too thrilled with the results. A nice reflection was there. Just not as nice as I had hoped. Maybe my expectations were too high considering the car is not black or of another dark color.
So... I decided last week that since I had a few days off from work, I'd get in some exercise, cough up the $$$ , buy the Z1, Z2 & Z6 and try it out. I first took my car to the car wash to get the standard grime off (sorry guys, I'm not as anal as many of you when it comes to not using a car wash - no disrespect meant). I then brought the car home and gave it another (and thorough) wash using Dawn. Prior to the Dawn, the car had a nice bead of water showing. But it was evident that after the Dawn, the bead was gone (assuming so was the previous waxing). The car has no swirl marks or other scratches that I could see, so on to the next step.
With a dry car, I then proceed to Z1 & Z2 per instructions. I let the car sit for five hours (it was 60 degrees, partly cloudy). Once the haze was there, I wiped off the 'Z' (100% USA cotton) and DAMN! The car looked mighty fine. The reflection of myself and surroundings was astonishing. On the roof of the car, the reflection of the paint was 99% equal to the reflection of the glass off my sunroof (it just can't get any better then that!). Standing a few feet away from the side of the car also showed an impressive shine; including the imperfections of the concrete street. I then went and Z6-ed and was done for the day. This morning, I applied another coat of Z2, waited a couple hours for it to dry, wiped off and then a Z6 coating. I couldn't tell if the shine was any better the second time around, but I was plenty happy with yesterdays results that if nothing else, I got another good 45 minutes of exercise
Other observations: Like most first timers, the Z1 & Z2 was applied thicker then necessary (even though I tried to hold back). *I* didn't see a difference after applying Z6 - maybe I was still in awe as to the shine the Z1/Z2 gave me. Even this morning, I didn't see the benefit of applying Z6. But if the procedure is Z1, Z2, Z6, then so be it. I didn't opt for the Z7 because I'll never wash the car by hand. I'm a realist - I barely have enough time to pee during the day..what makes me think I can set aside time to hand wash the car. I also have a 2000 dark blue Suburban. That's getting Z-ed later in the week if and when my body aches subside from the first 'Z'.
To all those novices and un-anal people like myself who just want a clean car looking nice and with a mirror-like in appearance, ZAINO works! I am very impresssed with the shine on my silver Regal GS. If I have to throw some negativity in this post, it's that the true test will be six months from now as to whether the shine holds on (I'll probably apply one layer of Z2/Z6 towards the end of May -should take 20 minutes to apply and another 20 to take off).
Good stuff and apologies for the lengthy post.
One caveat -- your local car wash may use a detergent that harms/removes the Z-2. Also, suggest that you not apply any wax or other "protectant" at the car wash.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
What were the results again?
Now...how do I maintain the shine on a semi-daily basis without going to extremes? Using a 100% cotton towel, can I wipe down the car from dust not seen w/o causing scratches? Should I dust off first and then use Z6, or spray Z6 after a couple days of washing the car and then wipe?
Using Z6 without washing can sometimes be a lot of work. I have had times that the towel got so dirty that I would have been better off had I washed first. I have heard of people using the Original Cal Duster with good results.
Maybe you will get more feedback from others.
I've also learned a trick to tell whether a Z-6 wipe off will be beneficial. From the driver's seat, look through the windshield and see how much dust or dirt is on the glass. If it's too much, or not merely a light coat of dust, wash with Z-7 or just rinse as above. If it's just light dust, FIRST wipe it off with a California Duster or a clean, white, !00% (you know the rest) using VERY light pressure so you don't scratch the paint. Then, a quick Z-6 job will bring back the full-blown wet-look shine!
Hope this helps. My car is garaged, and I find that a Z-6 application every few days eliminates the need for a Z-7 wash, except when I get road slop all over it from other cars (on wet pavement kicking up the grime).
2)After a wash, does anybody dry the car with the orange color "simulated" shammy? The 100% cotton towel leaves lints and stuff on the car, and I usually have to go over the same area a few times just to completely dry that area and to get rid of the water marks. Any suggestions? Thanks for your reply.
I use the Absorber and like it. I also get on the highway and drive fast to get rid of some water. Leafblowers are another idea I have heard of for drying and plan on trying. The CAL water blade has a strong following too. I actually saw someone blaming clay for giving scratches on a brand new vehicle finish and it turned out to be his Cal Water Blade--He swore he would never use it again. Others said you just need to be careful and use judgement. If it is a very windy day, stuff is blowing around and you just finished rinsing, you might think twice before using the absorber or waterblade.
100% cotton towels are more forgiving(due to their nap) than the Absorber or Waterblade if a piece of dirt gets on the finish. So be careful with them and clean them often and be on the lookout for a stray piece of grit.
The lint from the towels is not much of a problem IMHO but if it really bothers you, you could Z6 every time you dry and you won't have any lint on it at all. And Z6 is great at getting out any water spots too and great on the exterior glass too.
The CA WaterBlade is use only for my windows. You would have to be real careful using it on your paint finish as any dirt that is still on your car after washing will be dragged across your finish using the water blade. Also, if you have a car with many complex curves on it, the water blade's effectiveness is less than ideal.
The Absorber is one of my favorite products. It is my preferred way of drying my car quickly. It doesn't scratch the finish and makes quick work out of drying the car. I use two of them at a time...one for each hand.
Another quick drying tip that has been mentioned before (and works well), for the final rinse on your finish, take your pressure nozzle off your hose. Then just let a soft stream of water flow over your panels. What you should have left is much less water to dry off your finish than you would if you "blasted" each panel with your high pressure nozzle. Then just take the absorber and wipe off what's left.
In earlier posts, there was mention of group buys. Is there by any chance one in the works? How are these setup? Does someone just take the initiative and go with it or do the Zaino guys show up every so often and put out an offer?
TIA
And graphicguy: Good to see you're still here. Where can I buy the Ca. Waterblade?
It was populated by a couple of guys touting their "miracle" wax. Don't know what the stuff was called, but they did the "flame on the hood" trick and the "scratch your finish with a coin" trick. Of course, their "product" stood up to all of the abuse (while leaving some shiny, but pretty nasty swirls in the Cadilac hood they were using as a prop). They also had some sort of miracle cloth made up of some sort of mystical fibers that was supposed to be a "polishing cloth". I felt this cloth and it felt very rough to the touch.
The only thing they had that sparked my curiosity was the Water Blade. I bought one and tried it once on my finish. It seems to leave damp streaks on my finish. As I mentioned, it's not bad for getting water off of my windows which are flat, but I can dry my car just as quickly with the absorber.
I've seen the Water Blade at Pep Boys, also.